Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: Meyer on August 03, 2011, 04:22:29 pm
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Hi, I built this from a kit over 20 years ago, how, its a complete strip down, and rebuild project, " going water cooled, brushless motor 3600 and a 60 A speed controller, new ball race propshaft by Prop Shop , should be fast when completed, !!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/33hh727t0/Crist_Craft_refurb_1a_fl.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/33hh727t0/)
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Hi Roy
I love the look of your boat. There really is a lot of satisfaction to be had from bringing back to life a project that has been untouched for so long. I hope you get as much pleasure as I did with my Huntman 31 which had been untouched for 20 years also.
Please do keep us updated with further images in due course. :-))
Cheers
Craig
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Hi Craig,
Many thanks for your post, Its very interesting how motors and speed controllers have developed over all these years,
I'm busy sanding off the old fiberglass, !!! which is not an easy task, but Dumas used top quality woods, so theres plenty of meat to go at , with effecting the finish,
going to use a good sanding sealer, and then a final finish with spray acrylic gloss, for a stunning finish, !!!
(http://s2.postimage.org/1jmfdocdg/Crist_Craft_refurb_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1jmfdocdg/)
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another shot of the stern, "God save Dramel" !!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/7raommo4/Crist_Craft_sanding_stern_Dramel.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7raommo4/)
When I first build her, I used a liquid fiberglass on all of the insides and bottom of the boat, I also fiberglass the outside bottom of the hull and sides and stern, so you can see, this made the boat extra strong, (with other boat users in mind in case of a crash)!!! but a pig to take off,!!! but I'm getting there, I don't want to loss the classic style of this craft, so keeping the original rudder and just up grading the prop to a ball raced "Prop Shop" special, Hardware is a 3600 Brushless water cooled motor and W/C speed controller, pushing 60 amps, should be real fast, but in keeping with the Crist Craft style.
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what brushless are you using?
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Hi , thanks for your post,
I'm going to be using a Seaking 3600 water cooled brushless with their matched Seaking 60 amp speed controller, esc ca060/61
I don't know much about " brushless" so will be a very interesting learning curve for me, " I'm into Steam" normally, !!!
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neither do I. I was hoping you did so i could leach you of your knowledge :}
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Hi, yer, Its going to fun, I've size the motor around the prop siize at just under 4mm, getting back, talking about the prep work,!!! its coming along quite nicely, I'm using 100 grit on my sander, and then a fine 80 grit on my dramel, and then a 40/60 on a wood block to finish off with,
I notice that, some of the original wood glue is coming out , not very much , (but this will effect the look ), so I'm using a product from the states, its called Quick Wood is a repair Epoxy type of Putty brown in colour and this works a treat on those areas, as you can see, the quality of the shine of the wood is coming through now. going to use a sanding sealer, and then , if I've lost any colour in the wood, after all this sanding, then I'm to use a thin Teak oil base finish, to bring back the wood colour and then finish off with a good quality acrylic gloss spray.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1jme1e37o/Crist_craft_quick_wood_epoxy_putty.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1jme1e37o/)
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Hi, well that the sanding done, !!! I've oiled the deck with a teak oil, to bring back some of the dark tones lost will all that sanding,!!!
(http://s4.postimage.org/2l908zlt0/Crist_craft_teak_oiled.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2l908zlt0/)
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looking very nice :-))
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Thanks gwa, for your post, yes I'm pleased with the finish, justwaiting on the sanding sealing, and acrylic spray, just need to do a light polish on the bottom of the hull, just got these bits to fit, auto bailer, 2 x water outlets, water scoop, and rudder, waiting on the prop,
Question: can any one tell me , which way round do I fit the auto Bailer ? thanks
(http://s2.postimage.org/2c1tgqld0/Crist_Craft_parts_Auto_Bailer_etc.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2c1tgqld0/)
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from the look of it the auto bailer looks like a checkvalve, assemple it and blow threw it. it should only go threw 1 way, then install it so the direction is out.
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Hi Mike, thanks, thats a great idea, cheers Roy
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Hi Mike, thanks, thats a great idea, cheers Roy
tell me if it works
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Hi Auto bailer sorted and fitted together with the water cool out let, !!!
next job is fitting the propshaft and water scoop,
(http://s4.postimage.org/dbqe0k10/crist_craft_auto_bail_and_water_cool_out_let.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dbqe0k10/)
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have you checked that autobailer is below the water line :o probably bit stupid of me to mention this now if you havent
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like this in order for it to work {:-{
http://www.funrcboats.com/prvillautob.htm
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Hi Mike,
thanks for your posts, I've now fitted the auto bailer and the water outlet, finished the hull , with sanding sealing, and sanded diwn with 220 grit, sprayed with a clear acrylic, now re-fitting the deck fittings, Rudder cleaned and greased, and re-fitted, just waiting on prop now to continue,
(http://s4.postimage.org/1zspy1rok/crist_craft_windowscreen.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zspy1rok/)
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Here's an other pic
(http://s3.postimage.org/dsq7tnk4/Crist_Craft_fitted_auto_bailer_and_water_outlet.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dsq7tnk4/)
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Please, please, please test that the acrylic spray is compatible with any other materials you will be using! {:-{
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Hi Martin,
thanks for your post, A very good point, I have checked all the boxes for use off, and found to be OK, The insides walls and hull are all fiber glassed and the bottom, the top deck had been sealed, prior to the acrylic spray, so I feel all is good, I'm pleased with the finish now.
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Hi Well, I've now fitted a servo Futaba 3003 for the rudder "tested works fine,, and stated to re-fit the deck fittings,while I wait for the prop to come in the post and
I have striped down my vintage lamps (these are about 30 years old" very had to find now days.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2mvcm3skk/Crist_Craft_servo_vintage_lamps.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2mvcm3skk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2mvj896jo/Crist_Craft_flag.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2mvj896jo/)
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Seeing as you've fitted an autobailer, which from years of experience of people wondering where leaks are coming from, I can tell you they do not work as they should. If you stop I assure you the inside bits of your boat are gonna get wet....
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Cheers Andy,
I was pondering, on the same thoughts , "I have no experience with auto bailers, so to be damped "I suck it and see", if it does not work , I'll block it off, thanks for your post and followed interest.
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I've use them with some success in the past.
Usually they leak when they ingest various flotsam & jetsam or bits of detritus floating round the bottom
of your boat that you didn't know about. Just wash it it regularly and you should be OK.
( I realise it;'s a bit late now but if you can bit of an 'up' angle on it, it helps the ball float to the top of the tube
which helps with the seal. )
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Hi Martin,
Thanks for your input, its a great site for help and advice, "its an interesting item, " this auto bailer" !!!, I try and get an angle up on it,
cheers for now Roy
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I've seen more success using bent pipe in this arrangement...
The top of the tube has to be way above the waterline... As the boat goes along the rear facing end of the tube outside the boat creates suction, and pulls out any water in the boat.
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Not a very nice looking arrangement on a scale boat i must admit {:-{
Russ
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Hi , Andy,
Thanks for the drawing, very interesting, "I can see that this bent pipe , would be very effective", in a speed boat, I will try this on my next build, thanks again for your posts and interest.
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Not a very nice looking arrangement on a scale boat i must admit {:-{
Russ
Well you can use thinner pipe and tighter bends... It's only a laptop pad drawing on paint ;)
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http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Glow%20engines/Tweak%20maint.htm
i just bought the stuff today to fit a sypon autobailer. bit of ally tube and some silicone pipe.
another one here. good pictures:
http://www.modelgasboats.com/Bernoulli_Water_Bailer/
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Hi, while i'm waiting fo prop andd stuff , here's a few old build piics,
(http://s2.postimage.org/1612yafc4/c_craft_11_12_13_14_15.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1612yafc4/)
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Hi Mike, thanks for the scan , and your valued time, I'll see this monster in the pond yet, !!! thanks again,
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have you got it sussed yet ? ;)
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Hi,Mike, thanks I think I got it sorted now, !!! well I'm working on my mates steam engine , while I wait for prop and heat shrink wraps,, then I'll post some pics, thanks again,
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Not a very nice looking arrangement on a scale boat i must admit {:-{
Russ
When you install the backwards slanted tube in the bottom, out of the propwask, nobody will see it and it'll work even better.
(distinctively better than a forever leaking autobailer...)
Please seal the internals agains water.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Jan,
Thanks for your post, been a away on hols,
while I'm waiting on new motor and speed controller, I'm not to sure on how to ? or wear to fit this water scoop, any ideas, as I have no space between the rudder and prop,
there a pic,
(http://s2.postimage.org/2bwg1u5lw/water_scoop_position.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2bwg1u5lw/)
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where it is now is fine :-)) try to keep up hill flow to a minimum and the tubing short as possible but still allowing for nice curves no sharp kinks.
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Hi Mike,
thanks for your post, Cheers for info, I've made my own prop shaft, and fitted the original bronze 3 blade propeller , now I'm building up the acrylic gloss, and sanding down on 220 grit, about 10 coats to go, !!!, finish is starting to look great, can'nt wat to get this baby on the water, !!!
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10 coats!!! are you deliberately trying to drag the build out!!! you know the other day you said you got your money back. did you have to return the item or did they just give it you?
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Hi, no drag out,!!! I'm having fun, yer I return them,
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what motor you got in mind now then?
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Hi Going :
Mtroniks G2Hydra50 combo , will water cool motor, !!! " At least thiis will work, !!! this will give a good model speed,
Code: G2Hydra50c
50A Waterproof brushless speed control and motor set for model boat
The Genesis Hydra50 combo is a Forwards and Reverse Brushless Speed Control comlete with high power 600 can size inrunner motor designed specifically for use in scale RC boats.
The Genesis Hydra50 has a 50Amp Brushless motor limit, this is a rough equivalent to a standard, stock 600 or 700 can size brushed motor.
The Genesis Hydra50 Brushless speed control has been designed to fit straight into any RC model boat as a direct replacement for your Brushed speed control and motor. The set up is a no nonsense, one-step procedure making it very easy to get up and running within minutes! The Genesis Brushless Speed Controls designed for use in RC boats are all 100% waterproof giving you that extra peace of mind should the worst happen and you have to retreive your model from the graveyard under the pond!!
The Genesis Hydra50 benefits from 5 years worth of research and design work carried out by the Mtroniks design team with help from a few well known RC scale sailors. What this has resulted in is a Sensorless Brushless Speed Control that works and feels just the same as a Brushed Speed Control, giving you absolute control over the throttle with very smooth acceleration and the added bonus of longer run times when compared to Brushed Speed Control equivalents!
The 600can inrunner motor is 2100KV which equates to 2100 revs per volt (of your battery pack) for example, 24000rpm when run on a 12V battery.
Genesis Hydra50 features:
Easy one-step set up
Smooth controlable acceleration
5 to 10 cells NiCAD or NiMH
2-3 cells Lipo
6-12V Lead Acid
Automatic sensing of number and type of cells
Current limit cut-off
3A Hyper BEC
3 Internal Schottky diodes
Auto cut-off computer
Dimensions:-42mmx27mmx24mm
Weight:-60g
100% Waterproof
The Genesis Hydra50 speed control is capable of an average discharge rate of 45A and a peak discharge rate of 50A making it a very capable & attractive option at such a low price! Ideal for your first steps into the world of Brushless marine modelling!
The 'return to base' software upgrade enables the user to return their ESC to us to have the onboard software u
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sounds pricey!! :} shame about your bad luck with the other motor. the motor cooling on that 3600 is cack anyway i had to redrill and fit new nipples to the cooling can cos the standard ones dont flow!!
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Hi ,
Well i have a chat with Paul at Mtroniks, and so : I have now fitted the Feigao motor FG 5408490PL / 2887 Kv, going to run on their Hydro 50a controller, (I can also use this to run the 1200KV inrunner on the Ferrari Hydoplane) save some cash,javascript:void(0);
(http://s2.postimage.org/2vnydyplw/chris_craft_engine_installed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vnydyplw/)
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Hi does any one know, where I can get a sound module, I heard Bernards, on this Bootlegger, it sounds fantasic, cheers for any info
Well sorry to drag this build on, !!! while I'm waiting for the speed controller, and water cool fitting for the engine and cool plate , I'm fitting the seats and dash, !!! and finishing off those little jobs,
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pd4973j8/christ_craft_dash_back_seat_in.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pd4973j8/)
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starting to come togeather, looking nice :-))
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cheers Mike, thanks for your posts,
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looking sweet that lov the white strip in the planking realy pops with the varnish :-))
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Hi, thants for your post, yes its starting to come together now, !!!
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Hi to Mad Mike,
Just got my Mtroniks speed controller, wow, " it installed it self, !!!! its that great, excellent kit, WOW !!! Its that fast I dare not use on full throttle on the work bench, and its well worth the money, believe me,and I and use on my Ferrari Hydroplane , great.javascript:void(0);
(http://s3.postimage.org/13hpxb4ec/chris_craft_g2_50a_speed_controller.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/13hpxb4ec/)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Jtkl2IGYAs&feature=colike
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(http://s3.postimage.org/26hcnkwsk/Chris_Craft_hardware_layout.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/26hcnkwsk/)
Here's a pic of the hardware, !!! I'm waiting on a cool plate for the speed controller, and the water jacket for the Feigao motor, the battery is under the front seat, (this is the position in the plans)
this helps the balance of the craft on the water.
(http://s3.postimage.org/26iom5z44/Chris_craft_dashboard_LEDs.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/26iom5z44/)
I'ved added LED'S to the dashboard, easy to make up, and I'ved up to a switch, (I'm looking for a micro toggle switch to add to dash, but the ones I've are too big !!!
I'm going to wire up the lamps, and I may fit a sound card ?later.
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Hi Mad Mike
Thanks for your PM, I've made a silcon seal, and had one seal in my spares box, I also came accross an other prop, how about this brass one ,? I don't know what pitch it is , but looks a sharper curve than the bronze prop on the boat, its the same size 38mm dia,?
waiting for the silicon to cure ? hope it works,
thanks Roy
(http://s4.postimage.org/250c8fq3o/Chris_Craft_silicon_seal.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/250c8fq3o/)
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starting to look the part. I cant say for sure which would be the better prop from here, youl have to run them both to see. what is the prop shaft diameter?
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Hi Mad Mike,
Yer I'll run them both, and see how they perform, the brass prop shaft is 1/8th Dia and the 3 blade prob is 38mm dia, I'm hopping to trial the boat at the W/E.
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i hope to get on the lake this weekend. try and do a vid if you can, you will probably need someone to help you.
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Cheers, yer, I got a great club , so I'm sure some one will be about to lend a hand,
thanks for your posts,
Roy
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Hi Roy,
Looking good!
Just looking back at the photos, it maybe the angle of the photo but you might just want to recheck the motor to shaft alignment...
.....just for me please! The motor looks canted slightly upwards. Not sure you can do anything about it at this stage but any angle
between the shaft and motor will rob you of power ( even slightly... even in such a high powered boat! ) which be lost in friction,
heat, noise and wear.
... been there, done that, got the T shirt... started the forum!!!
NB: Yes I do have a major hang up, a .... fixation!... regarding motor to prop shaft alignment for several reasons:
1, I find it very hard to get right.
2, It can be a very difficult retrofix.
3, I've destroyed the bearings in a very expensive IC engine.
4, Wrecked a couple propshafts bearings.
5, Exploded several UJs
6, And once embarrassed myself at a show by asking what sound generator a bloke had in his big battle wagon...
.... when he didn't have one fitted! :embarrassed:
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Hi Martin,
Well spotted,!!!
Many years ago, when I came to set the outer prop, I llined it up to the motor (perfectly I might add) however I left it to set (on it own ) and it had moved off centre to the right by about just under an 1/8th of an inch, !!! , in those days i ran a Dumas 540 and it ran OK,
now look at your line up pic, I think I can move the angle the motor mount to fall in line, however , I think (as the prop rotates very freely) that the extra added friction will not be too bad, as the stuffing box is packed with a good quality marine grease , and that I'm using hard nylon bushes at both ends of the prop shaft. I've ran the motor quite few times and checked the nylon bushes and there does not appear to be any excessive wear.
I'm hopping to trial her at the W/E and she how she performs on the Dam.
many thanks for your posts with regards to this build.
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Just a quick hint on props and brushless start very small on props one run with to big a prop can burn a motor and controller out, for the first runs just do a few quick spins and bring it in and see how hot it is , they can get hot very quick, it is a pain but it saves a lot of money , that brass prop looks to have a lot of blade for such a high KV motor, go for a smaller two bladder you can get some cheap plastic ones that are good for testing till you find the right size.
Peter
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Hi Peter,
Thanks for your post, I'll try that,
Roy
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(http://s4.postimage.org/2wl381hpg/chris_craft_real_for_a_trial.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wl381hpg/)
Hi, I'v changed the water jacket, as I has a slight leak on my home made silicon seal, !!! so I'm using the Ali one, !!! I've new seals to refit,
I've ran the boat for 3 mins , with no problems, and no over heat problems at all, !!! so ready for a trial at the Dam on Sat or Sun,
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(http://s3.postimage.org/110ljb9z8/ccon_the_pond.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/110ljb9z8/)
WOW, !!!! Now thats f a s t !!!! renamed The Bullet, see the link below for a Youtube Video,
thanks for all the advice and interest in this project
http://youtu.be/Vy6NQIeLe78
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looks good. need a longer vid of it at speed though pleasen :}
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Do you think that a Novak 1600kv inrunner brushless would be fast enough in my Dumas ChrisCraft?
I have a couple on the shelf that I could use.
Kind regards,
Giovanni
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Hi Giovanni,
Hi,
re Novak 1600 I couldn't find any thing on the web, did a quick search, ? have you any data on this motor , size weight, windings, volts,, what amps will it pull, what battery are are you using,
what is your shaft size, what propeller are you going for ? what speed controller are you going to use ?
thanks from Roy Scotland,
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Thanks for your reply!
It is a #3618 with a Goat 3S Crawler ESC, 7.2v Hyperion li-poly and 1-1/2" x 2" prop.
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/brushless/ballistic_crawler/index.html
Kind regards,
Giovanni
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Hi, just fitted a new steel shaft and St/Steel coupling. bench tested 5 mins now works great, !!! just waiting for the weather to improve for second trial, in gthe mean time refit to dash board, adding lights and swith , and back lighting the speed dials, !!!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/navzve10/CC_Dash_wiring_up.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/navzve10/)
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Here's a Youtube link, with a new prop shaft and st/steel coupling, this is not a speed test, just a trial to check that evey thing is working OK,
http://youtu.be/FX9vOdKUczg
thanks for your interest
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Where can I find Scale dash gauges for my Dumas Barelback?
Giovanni
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Hi Giovanni,
The dials are from the std decals (transfers ), which are cut from the decal dash strip , holes drilled in dashboard, and the led's are fitted in the back pannel, then the dial decal which is cut down is cemented in the reverse of the dash, so that when the light they light up,
very easy to do:
(http://s4.postimage.org/15nl9gjtw/CC_bones_in_the_driving_seat.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/15nl9gjtw/)
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Hi Giovanni,
Just had a look at your Crawler motor, WOW,!!! Thats some engine, your Chris Craft, will fly, good luck with your build,
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Thanks for your comment.
Can't wait to give them a go.
Regards,
Giovanni
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I would love to make some like these used on the RTR Vietnamese boats.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Chris-Craft-Triple-Cockpit-33-Remote-Control-Boat-/250836144422&ust=1319067711069739&usg=AFQjCNFuXbjtb34gW7CMGhrhI0_TOOn-Ow
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I have seen some builders using doll googly-eyes with the decal transferred to the reverse side and a chrome bezel surrounding them.
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Hi thanks for your interest, project now complete, so now this thread is closed
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Roy, how can it be closed if you didn't show us the pictures of your final result? ;)
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Hi OK I'll post pics at the W/e, just did'nt want to drag it , go and on , !!!