Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: barriew on August 16, 2011, 04:27:22 pm
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I have just received my next project - the above 28" (700mm) kit. I bought this from eBay for £45. They also do the same subject at 1420mm long and in 1/12th scale.
My first impressions are very favorable. The box contains lots of cleanly cut plywood parts - not sure how its been cut, but there are no laser burns - some printed balsa sheets, some balsa blocks and strip, plus some brass wire. Also included are two sheets of full size drawings and an instruction manual with further drawings, including a very detailed drawing for the mast. The smaller parts for the cabin, mast and hatch covers all come in separate plastic bags. There is no running gear with the kit - to allow for fitting either single or twin drive. I intend to use a single brushless motor. I think it could be a bit tight to get twin drives in this particular model, although the larger sizes should have plenty of room.
The kits are currently made to order and it took about 10days for mine to arrive.
All this comes packed in a sturdy cardboard box, well wrapped in strong brown paper.
I have no connection with Kitshack (anyone know anything about them?) but if this goes together well, I will certainly be looking out for more models from them. I will try to post some build photos - if I can remember to take them {-)
Barrie
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Hmm. I saw those advertised....very interested to see what you think.
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I'm just about to start posting a buildlog of this kit under warships.
Barrie
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I posted some details of this kit under Whats in the Box? - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32068.0
I have now started the build. Its quite a bit different to my last two builds, a semi scratch Tyne Lifeboat and a Caldercraft Talacre (both used D Metcalfe's plans {:-{) This is mainly balsa with ply skins.
The drawings are full size and consist of two sheets, one of 'external' details, the other of the construction, showing location of formers, chines keel etc. Some of the larger pieces of balsa are pre-cut, the smaller items are printed then varnished (or sanding sealer). The ply is pre-cut to shape for the hull panels. There were a couple of errors with the printed balsa, one part had the wrong number, and a line was missing from another, otherwise these are pretty good.
Construction starts by building a box. This is quite easy although both sides and base have to be scored and bent - not too easy with 3mm and 5mm balsa! The box will be hidden in the completed vessel, so looks are not too important ok2 It was not clear either whether the end panels went inside or out.
Next the components of the keel are assembled on the plan. This is where the fun begins ;) The front three pieces are nowhere near the same as the plan. Quite a bit of adjustment was required here, but after leaving to dry, the keel is mounted on the 'box'.
The plans and instructions make no mention of a rudder :o I think I have worked out where to put it, and have ordered a Graupner rudder from Cornwall model boats, which is where the 6" propshaft is coming from. The angle of the shaft as shown seems very steep, but I will go with it for now. I plan to fit a 1400KVA brushless motor and 7.4V LiPo.
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Nice posting, good luck with the project, look forward to the photos :-)
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I posted some details of this kit under Whats in the Box? - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32068.0
I have now started the build. Its quite a bit different to my last two builds, a semi scratch Tyne Lifeboat and a Caldercraft Talacre (both used D Metcalfe's plans {:-{) This is mainly balsa with ply skins.
The drawings are full size and consist of two sheets, one of 'external' details, the other of the construction, showing location of formers, chines keel etc. Some of the larger pieces of balsa are pre-cut, the smaller items are printed then varnished (or sanding sealer). The ply is pre-cut to shape for the hull panels. There were a couple of errors with the printed balsa, one part had the wrong number, and a line was missing from another, otherwise these are pretty good.
Construction starts by building a box. This is quite easy although both sides and base have to be scored and bent - not too easy with 3mm and 5mm balsa! The box will be hidden in the completed vessel, so looks are not too important ok2 It was not clear either whether the end panels went inside or out.
Next the components of the keel are assembled on the plan. This is where the fun begins ;) The front three pieces are nowhere near the same as the plan. Quite a bit of adjustment was required here, but after leaving to dry, the keel is mounted on the 'box'.
The plans and instructions make no mention of a rudder :o I think I have worked out where to put it, and have ordered a Graupner rudder from Cornwall model boats, which is where the 6" propshaft is coming from. The angle of the shaft as shown seems very steep, but I will go with it for now. I plan to fit a 1400KVA brushless motor and 7.4V LiPo.
The basic box has been well coated (3 coats) of Eze Kote. This has made it a lot tougher. Not quite sure about a glue to stick to it though. There is not actually much which will need sticking, but I need to do some experimenting :-))
The chines are now fitted, just waiting for some sanding before I can start skinning. I do want to fit prop shaft and rudder before I skin it though, but these have not yet appeared from Cornwall Model Boats - maybe they are on holiday.
There is more in this kit than I realised. On the drawing and in the instructions it says in several places ' cut from scrap', but in fact the parts are there! I'm still not too happy about the way the cabins fit to the deck, or at least the water-tightness of the proposed construction. I think I will be modifying this area, but I have quite a bit to do before I get there.
Barrie
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Whilst waiting for the propshaft, I decided to add some doublers to the keel to make it easier to glue the skins. Probably not really necessary, but better now than trying to patch it later O0
The propshaft arrived yesterday, but so did my new car :-)) so I didn't get a chance to fit it until this afternoon ;)
I have made the angle rather shallower than the cut out in the keel indicated to allow me to get the motor under the deck. The tube is also in place for the rudder - a Graupner unit which has a slim tube unlike the thick plastic ones I've seen and used before.
I hope to be able to get some of the skins on tomorrow - I've trimmed one to go round the shaft and rudder ready to stick tomorrow.
I have been contacted by the maker of this kit who is following this build. They have already modified the keel pieces which gave me some trouble!
Barrie
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I have been contacted by the maker of this kit who is following this build. They have already modified the keel pieces which gave me some trouble!
Barrie
Contrary to recent comments on another thread, Just goes to show there are still customer orineted suppliers still out there who take notice. 10 out of 10
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OK, the bottom skins are all on now. I used aliphatic resin glue for three of them as I could get clamps and weights into play easily. The final front skin was not so easy, so I used super glue gel and an accelerator. As you will see, I didn't make too good ajob of fitting these, particularly at the bow, and quite a bit of filler was needed (still to finish sanding). My excuse is that it is a very long time since I built a hull of this shape, and just as long since I used balsa and ply to this extent ;). As I plan to cover the hull with tissue and Aero Kote, then I'm not too worried about the filler.
Next job is to trim these back to the chine line, then the side skins and transom.
Barrie
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Now for the side skins. Again I used a mixture of aliphatic resin and superglue and activator. The last two pieces at the bow were the tricky ones. I trimmed one of them too tight and had to raid the bits box for another piece of ply. It still needed filler, but once the tissue is on it should be OK.
After taking the photo I fitted the chine rail and coated the hull in Aero Kote ready for the tissue. The instructions say that the prototype required a 'keel' to sail straight. This is quite a thick piece of balsa, which I don't think will last long at our water as it has a sloping gravel ramp. {:-{ I plan to build without and add later if I have problems. ok2
Tomorrow its my third visit to Addenbrookes Out Patients this week (for my wife not me) so probably wont get much done after that.
Barrie
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The hull has now been covered with modelling tissue and Aero Kote. Several coats of resin between sandings, and it is now ready for a final sand using fine abrasive paper. I am leaving over night to harden fully. It will them be ready for painting. I have also fitted the motor and the bearers are in ready to fix the steering servo. I have also fixed the bearers shown on the plans to support the removable decks. I think it needs these on the rear deck as well, but these were not shown on the plan so I will fit these before proceeding with the decks.
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Looking very nice so far Barrie, I'm watching with interest, as thinking what project to do next. Keep up the good work. Cheers Dan.
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28"? And a balsa box build?
This looks very like the Veron RTTL kit from the 1960s to me.
I wonder if is, and, if so, if it's put out under license.....
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Well my assumption from the blurb on ebay has always been that it is a remake using the Veron plans. Apologies to Kitshack if this isnt the case - just seems a reasonable assumption on my part.
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Not being familiar with the Veron version I couldn't comment. The plans have definitely been re-drawn, or traced, going by the quality.
How did the cabins fit on the Veron version? On this there are two removable pieces of deck with the cabins/hatches built on them. This makes for what seems to me like a recipe for taking on water as there are no coamings. I plan to try to improve on this. O0
Barrie
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Not being familiar with the Veron version I couldn't comment. The plans have definitely been re-drawn, or traced, going by the quality....
Do they say 'designed by Phil Smith'? And it's interesting to see that they offer scaled up kits as well - someone must have digitised it for laser cutting...
How did the cabins fit on the Veron version? On this there are two removable pieces of deck with the cabins/hatches built on them. This makes for what seems to me like a recipe for taking on water as there are no coamings. I plan to try to improve on this. ..
Yes, the Veron version had the centre of the deck removable in two parts - it just rested on a little ledge below and a row of ventilators (made out of sections of dowel) were used to hold it down. That box system is also very distinctive - though I think some early MarineCraft kits also used the same technique.....
Worked fine on my model - no water came in during a sparkling performance with an ME Snipe 1.5cc. Nowadays I would probably go for a magnetic seal...
I'm glad to see the old kit back in production again, but I wonder how the copyright issues were sorted out. Does anyone know if Phil Smiths family know about this?
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Do they say 'designed by Phil Smith'? And it's interesting to see that they offer scaled up kits as well - someone must have digitised it for laser cutting...
No - J Williams from memory - the plans are in the shed.
Barrie
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Must be my version of winderz but I can't see any referance to a Veron re-kit in their fleebay ad? With regards to the method of construction, wonder if Phil took a copyright on his method of hard chine construction around a box?
Regards Ian.
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Must be my version of winderz but I can't see any referance to a Veron re-kit in their fleebay ad? With regards to the method of construction, wonder if Phil took a copyright on his method of hard chine construction around a box?
Regards Ian.
Unlikely to be a 'method of construction' copyright - in the 1960s they would have considered that to be unreasonable - like copyrighting the idea of a house built out of 4 walls and a roof.
But the kit is SO similar (from what I can see of it) that I think it is a straight copy. So I was expecting at least to see a reference to the original designer. And I wasn't expecting to see another designer given credit!
As people may know, I don't like the current approach to copyright at all, and am heartened to see the Pirate Party doing so well in the German elections. But I DO think that original designers should be acknowledged....
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Especially since Phil (And Vic) did so much to keep their designs active. Although there is an extensive list of Phil's A/C plans with prices, I haven't seen likewise for his boats.
Regards Ian
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Although there is an extensive list of Phil's A/C plans with prices, I haven't seen likewise for his boats...
Well... we do know that one of them costs £50.... %) %)
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No - J Williams from memory - the plans are in the shed.
Barrie
Dodgy
The plans actually say "Drawn by J Williams". Not quite as direct as saying "Designed by"
Barrie
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The hull is now painted and the decks fitted. I have also installed the steering servo and the rudder. I am waiting for some strong magnets to be delivered so I can devise a means of holding the cabin decks in place.
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I had a similar problem my RTTL. The auxilliary superstructures are 'sunk' into the deck, hopefully sufficiently to not require additional fixings. The main superstructure slides forwards about 4mm onto 'hooks' and is then kept in position by the hatch being placed into its well in the deck. Obviously to remove the hatch must be lifted out first. Unfortunately cannot forward any photos at the moment.
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... I am waiting for some strong magnets to be delivered so I can devise a means of holding the cabin decks in place...
If you buy some small 1/4" disk neodymium magnets the same size as the dowel slices which the kit uses for the deck vents, you could simply paint them and mount them in place of the deck vents. Then all you need is to put some thin steel sheet under the ledge which the superstructure rests on....
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Dodgy,
I had a slightly different idea - small (3mm dia) magnets let into the cabin decks and the bearers. Seems to work. I'll post some pictures later when I go get my camera from the shed :}
Barrie
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A couple of photos of the removable decks and their fixings.
I'm currently cutting the window openings for cabins. This is pretty hard work. They are not cut, just scribed and the ply is very tough - twenty minutes to remove one using a mixture of knives with several new blades :((
Barrie
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Buy yourself a coping saw Barrie.
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I have one , and a piercing saw ok2 They are a bit small but I may have to give it another try.
Barrie
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Hi there Barry
Rather than trying to use a coping saw/piercing saw - it may be best to try & invest in a fretsaw. With a fretsaw you can obtain really fine toothed blades enabling you to cut very small and very fine apertures in your work. The windows in the RTTL would be no problem at all with the fretsaw to cut them out. If you do a full forum search there is someone asking where to purchase fretsaw blades from and it turned out to be quite an educational topic, covering a variety of saws/saw blades. Also you could do a search on Ebay for inexpensive fretsaws/blades.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32616.0 :-)) :-))
aye
john
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Bluebird
I have a good selection of piercing saw blades some very fine- so fine you can barely see the teeth ok2 I did use the saw to cut out some windows, at least the bulk of the window, then was able to carve out the remainder. This was on a reasonably sized piece of the boat (main cabin sides). I am now dealing with much smaller pieces and I am not sure I can hold them steady whilst I saw O0 However, that's what I am going to try next time I get to work on the model.
Barrie
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Update
Yesterday I used my piercing saw to finish cutting the windows from the forward cabin. This morning I got an email from the supplier to say that they are now supplying CNC cut windows with the kit! CNC cut versions of the winch cabin parts are on theiir way O0 O0
Barrie
Bluebird
I have a good selection of piercing saw blades some very fine- so fine you can barely see the teeth ok2 I did use the saw to cut out some windows, at least the bulk of the window, then was able to carve out the remainder. This was on a reasonably sized piece of the boat (main cabin sides). I am now dealing with much smaller pieces and I am not sure I can hold them steady whilst I saw O0 However, that's what I am going to try next time I get to work on the model.
Barrie
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... This morning I got an email from the supplier to say that they are now supplying CNC cut windows with the kit!
If you are talking to the kit supplier it might be interesting to ask them about the provenance of the kit, and what relationship it might have to the 1960s Veron model.... %) %)
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Hi there BarrieW
The problem with using a piercing saw/jewellers saw is that normally the work has to be held in a vice and the saw used in a horizontal position. For cutting small windows or windows in the side of the superstructure, as you know, is a bit tricky. Hence I suggested a fret saw. A fretsaw is used in a vertical position and the piece of work is help on a flat bit of board with a V cut in it, enabling it to be moved around freely.
As one gains a bit more experience, one finds a method called chain drilling w = this is where you drill on the inside of your aperture to be removed - with a very fine/small diameter drill and cut through all of the holes, removing the bulk of the material first. Then, with the appropriate files, open up to the desired marked area of size. This is how I did the rear towing cabin windows on the RTTL on my model.
hope this helps :-))
aye
john
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John,
Yes - I appreciate how jewelers use the saws, but I use it like a fretsaw ;). I use chain drilling when using plasticard - haven't tried it in wood but It could help. As you will see, I am being sent some that have been CNC routed so problem solved :-))
Thanks for your interest.
Barrie
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Some progress has been made, despite wasting a morning in Outpatients >:-o
I have not been following the suggested method for building the cabin, as I wanted to work on that at the same time as the hull. Also, I want to keep access to the inside so that I can glaze the windows. So, what you see in the pictures is not fixed down yet. The roof, made from balsa, has been covered in tissue and given several coats of Eze Kote. The cabin has been Eze Koted also. I need to give a quick coat of paint to check on the finish - I think it may need some fine filler. I have been trying to decide if I can fit window frames. These are quite a feature of the RTTL, but I cannot decide how (if) I am going to tackle them ok2
The roundels and lettering were cut on my vinyl cutter - probably not quite the correct colours as I was limited to what vinyl was available. I am aware that these craft had planked decks, but I didn't think a reasonable effect could be created given the number of pieces of ply making up the deck.
Barrie
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I have been trying to decide if I can fit window frames. These are quite a feature of the RTTL, but I cannot decide how (if) I am going to tackle them ..
On the one I made in 1969, I scribed a 1/8" rim around all the windows, used a mahogany wood dye to colour this, and then painted white up to the scribe mark.
The dye then ran into the white paint, so it ended up discoloured at the edges of the windows rather than smartly changing from white to brown... :(( :((
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On the one I made in 1969, I scribed a 1/8" rim around all the windows, used a mahogany wood dye to colour this, and then painted white up to the scribe mark.
That might be worth a try. I certainly don't fancy trying to cut them from thin ply, and crafting from strip wood is a rather daunting task! I have some brown cuttable vinyl, but the window shapes don't really lend themselves to this technique, and it is very shiny :((
Some experimentation is called for I feel :}
Barrie
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hi ya there Barry
One method which you could possible try is the use of Plasticard. Cut your window frames from thin plasticard and then paint them a dark mahogany colour - and you can glaze them from the inside if you make them slightly smaller than the aperture. This is how I achieved the windows on the RTTL which I built.
aye
john e
bluebird
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John
Yes - that's another option. I need to check my plasticard stocks. I also thought of a variation on Dodgy's scheme - paint the cabin then mask off a 1-2 mm 'frame' round the window and paint it brown. I think I favour this method, but will see if I have some very thin plastic card.
Barrie
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John
Yes - that's another option. I need to check my plasticard stocks. I also thought of a variation on Dodgy's scheme - paint the cabin then mask off a 1-2 mm 'frame' round the window and paint it brown. I think I favour this method, but will see if I have some very thin plastic card.
Barrie
I found that scribing through one ply with a sharp blade produced a very realistic dip in the surface and let you use the grain of the wood - but I should have:
1 - used less stain
2 - sealed the white surface before painting.....
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When I originally built the superstructure I had no intention of 'furnishing' the inside so I did not cut out the windows. When I restarted I could not remember what I intended to do. Instead of starting again I decided to cut out the first layer of ply, paint the cleared window araea matt black, and then fill the 'gap' with 'glazing'. I then cut ot the 'frames' from 1/32 ply, not easy, the plasticard would have been much better. Also I stuck them on before painting them, so will need a steady hand or much masking when I come to paint them. With hindsight I would probably been better off starting again , but I suppose this is called the learning process.
In the phote the protective film is still on the 'glazing'
Howard
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Thanks for that. They look good. I have already cut out the windows, so will be glazing mine. Work has slowed at the moment due to frequent visits to Addenbrooke's Hospital Clinics with my wife, and the temperature in my workshop being nearly 30C O0 O0
I hope to make progress once the weather remembers which season we are supposed to be in <*< <*<
Barrie
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Sorry to hear about the hospital visits, hope its nothing serious.
The weather is certainly uncharacteristic, the gadgets on the computer show Newcastle at 19 degrees, will be even hotter down south, more like the 24 degrees showing for Malaga, (BBC weather forecast showing London hotter than Malaga. It is bound to change before I get back, in fact the BBC is showing Newcastle changing on Sunday.
Howard
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Some progress has been made. I received the CNC cut rear cabin and have assembled it. The hatches are made and I am now painting. The main cabin roof needs another coat or two (Humbrol matt white never seems to cover very well) then I can tackle the window frames. Once that is one I can glaze the windows and fix the cabin to the deck.
Barrie
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I've now painted the frames - I am quite happy with the effect. Not up to exhibition standard, but this is a boat to sail and when its a couple of metres out, you wont know the difference ;) The windows are glazed, apart front one front one which didn't want to stick! I now need to do the internal electrics, and paint some more deck. I hope to get it on the water next Sunday, then finish the fittings, including the mast which looks a bit daunting %)
Barrie
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i am thinking of building a r/c boat and after looking at this and seeing it on ebay will have a go . would you say this kit will be a good one for me has a first time build ?
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You're doing a nice job of demonstrating the build, thanks :-)) ... I'm yet another considering this one as a project. I see their latest auction is for £100 but now includes propshaft, rudder, plastic propellor, 450 size motor and coupling, so this is fast becoming a comprehensive kit as they continue development.
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i am thinking of building a r/c boat and after looking at this and seeing it on ebay will have a go . would you say this kit will be a good one for me has a first time build ?
No I wouldn't although it is always difficult to answer this question without knowing a person's background and any skills they possess - not necessarily modelling skills. There is nothing wrong with what is supplied, and the latest version with propshaft etc, certainly makes it easier, but unless you have some experience I think the instructions are probably a bit vague for a beginner. It is of course possible that these have been improved since I bought mine, which was one of the first I think.
If you want to build an RTTL, then look at either the Deans Marine or preferably the Model Slipway one. These are basically plastic, but the latter comes with pretty comprehensive instructions, although I think they suggest it is not for beginners. There is a good build log for this on another forum.
Hope this helps
Barrie
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You're doing a nice job of demonstrating the build, thanks :-)) ... I'm yet another considering this one as a project. I see their latest auction is for £100 but now includes propshaft, rudder, plastic propellor, 450 size motor and coupling, so this is fast becoming a comprehensive kit as they continue development.
Yes - as I have mentioned the kit is developing - windows are now CNC cut, the keel pieces have been modified etc. I have suggested a parts list be included as there is a lot of wood strip, but it doesn't always tie up with the instructions.
Barrie
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thank you for your info i have builded airfix models plane,s , lorrys etc, before ,but now would like to build one that is not just for show but can be used
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The RMAS used to have one of these boats at Great Harbour, Greenock on the Clyde, used to start planing at about 37kts if my memory serves me right. Lovely boat, fitted with 2x Rolls Royce Merlin petrol engines, cartridge start, even had a go of driving once, a superb experience. The boat was called Kestrel but locally nicknamed the "Bomb", because of the noise when it was started up. By the way your model looks superb.
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thank you for your info i have builded airfix models plane,s , lorrys etc, before ,but now would like to build one that is not just for show but can be used
If you really want to have a go, then do by all means. You will get lots of help from this site if you get stuck.
Barrie
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I've made some more progress - handrails now fitted, both cabins fixed to the deck. Large decal on the roof and the bars fitted to roof. I've also completed the wiring, though nothing is fixed as yet until I give it a flotation test to see where it needs ballast - if any. Next job is to fit the bars to the front of the cabin. These are actually representing the ventilation opening and should stand proud of the cabin wall, but in common with other models at this scale they will be stuck on :-)
I plan to give it a test sail on Sunday then leave it for a few days before completing the detail fittings and mast whilst I tackle a non-boating project. This is the sale of my 'N' gauge railway equipment which will then allow me to re-organise my workshop to give more room to boats %%
Barrie
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Ok, I am now ready for 'sea' trials tomorrow. The model is virtually complete apart from the mast. The motor and ESc are installed - the ESC is currently not fixed as I am not sure if I will need water cooling. I've sorted out the problems with the ES set up and it now does forward and reverse just like a brushed ESC. It needed 600g of ballast forward to bring it down to its marks.
I am pretty pleased with the result - my lack of skill with wood and particularly with balsa gave me some minor problems, but it was satisfying to build. I did not set out to create a super detailed representation of the original, just something that when its racing across the lake looks realistic.
Barrie
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It's looking good Barrie. I'm looking forward to seeing her on the water. I think of this era might be next on my list.
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When I woke this morning there was heavy rain so I thought that was the end of plans for a maiden voyage, but by the time I was ready for setting out the sky had cleared. The first run with the forward ballast was disappointing, the bow wouldn't rise at all, so I removed it all. The second run was better, but it still didn't get up on the plane. It holds course well, and has a reasonably tight turning circle. I think I need to try a smaller prop. The current one is a 35mm X type. I have a 30mm S type which I will try next week. I also have the option of going to 11.1v - its a 2S LiPo in at the moment. Reverse worked just like a brushed ESC, and I didn't lose my prop {-) {-)
My magnets to hold the decks in place worked well, and no water came onto the deck so that the seal was not tested :-)
More next week.
Barrie
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Tried again this week with a 30mm prop - no different really. Tried on 11.1volts - didn't get far before a radio problem - I think - left me in the middle of the lake {:-{ Had to rescue myself with my lifeboat %% I don't think it was much improvement though.
Not sure what to try now - maybe a different motor, or maybe some weight in the stern to try to lift the bows.
Barrie
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May I suggest trying a Speed 600 Race motor,which will need to be watercooled of course,that might just get you up onto the plane. Make sure that your battery is in the rear half of the boat too,which also helps a bit. ok2
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You may find that due to the lack of water cooling that the ESC may not be delivering full power to the motor due to overheating this also could account for the break down in the middle of the pond . Have you got another ESC you could try?
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Dreadstar - its a very light LiPo, but I intend adding weight to the stern. Converting to Brushed motor and water cooling would be tricky - I will continue with brushless experiments until I get bored %%
Andy - the ESC doesn't even get warm! The motor is a 950KV - I thought it was 1400Kv. I have ordered a 1400Kv to try. I think the glitch was due to a dodgy connection, or just possibly my extra cheap Spektrum compatible Rx. It will be a Radiolink for the next test.
Barrie
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hi there
Am I correcdt in thinking that your brushless motor fitted only has a 14000 rpm speed at top end?
If so, I would be looking for a motor of the capability of 17000 - 21000 rpm to make a model plain using a 30-35mm prop - 2 or 3 blade.
The model which I built is a lot heavier than yours - but it incorporates 2 Mtroniks motors of 21000 rpm running on a 7.2 NiCad pack (one for each motor) driving a 35mm 3 blade prop - which brings the model up on the plain without any effort at all. You could though, if you want too, fit a bigger prop to your model if you dont have sufficient rpm's but I always think this is the wrong way to go, because in real life all the power boats use small props and high revving motors to achieve plaining speeds and surely if the big boys do it this way it must be right.
aye
john
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John,
No - the current motor is 950x7.4 or about 7000 rpm. I plan to try one that will be 1400x7.4 or 10500rpm. I also have one that is 1600kv which will give nearly 12000rpm on 7.4 volts or 21000 on 13.1 volts. From your figures I think the latter is the best bet. I have a Deans Marine Fireboat which goes like crazy on a 1400kv motor with 7.4 volts. This is why I expected my initial set-up to be OK, until I checked my records and found the motor was only 950Kv (a lot of these motors aren't marked),
This weekend I hope to try the 1600kv motor on both 7.4 volts and 13.1 volts.
Barrie
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I've now completed this model - I'm sure that more detail could be added, but this is as far as I intend to take it.
Sailed again today with 1600kv motor on 13.1v and 30mm prop. It went better but still not quite as well as I would like. I have a feeling that the prop-shaft is not as free as it might be - I'll investigate this week.
Barrie
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Looks Really nice Barrie. I'm sure you'll sort out the speed issue soon. Hope mine turns out as well :-)) :-))
cheers
Dan.
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Barrie,
i was impressed by your build so much that i have just placed an order for the 56" model and expect delivery the first week in december,
cheers bob
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Now that Martin has reinstated this thread I can finish my review.
The motor which I thought was a 1600kv turned out to be only 1250 {:-{ I was going by model number and didn't check the kv >:-o
With the 1600 it is as fast I want :-)) Run time with an 11.1v LiPo is good enough for me at speed.
All in all I am very satisfied with the kit and the service from Kitshack and will hopefully build another of their models (their Fireboat looks interesting) when I have cleared my backlog.
Barrie
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Barrie
Ive just looked through your build and have to say youve made a amazing job of it! Looks great.
Hopefully you have had another kit from us since :D ?
Would it be possible to have some of your pictures emailed to us to us on the ne website and Facebook?
KitShack
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Hi Barrie
Do you still have the boat? if not what happend to it.
We are trying to build up a bit of a collection of our finished kits.
Is there another kit of ours that you now would like to try out???
Chris
KitShack Models