Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: agemax on October 04, 2011, 03:09:02 pm
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mate was clearing his attic out and asked me if i wanted a few rc stuff, got 4 cars, loads of stuff like transmitters,receivers,servos, batteries etc......and this
(http://s2.postimage.org/2foqyjq04/100_1143.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2foqyjq04/)
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now that is a boat worth investing more speed out of not those crappy nqd boats :-))
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it has a very big motor,propshaft and prop. a rudder and i think a rudder controller but no receiver or speed controller as far as i can tell. i am sure somebody will tell me what is what. can anyone identify it, apart from the stickers on it?
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z260/agemax/100_1144.jpg)
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the spinning gadget in the middle is the speed controller, its mechanical and needs a servo to operate it. Is there anything inside that white box??
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the spinning gadget in the middle is the speed controller, its mechanical and needs a servo to operate it. Is there anything inside that white box??
there is nothing apart from the rudder, which is not connected to anything
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take a look.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z260/agemax/100_1145.jpg)
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what came with the cars?? any speed controllers? servos or radio gear?
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hi yes the item in the middle is a mechanical speed controller just add 2 servo's and a battery and your ready to go i have the krick sanwa barracuda ill upload a pick when i get home ive had trouble finding info on these boats so far but still looking
could you measure the motor then we can ascertain what it is
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what came with the cars?? any speed controllers? servos or radio gear?
there are 2 servos, a receiver module thingy ,all brand new ,and 2 transmitter controllers,an AP227MK3 and a AP227MK2
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put those in your boat then
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put those in your boat then
i will do when i figure out how to! {:-{
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right have you tested the gear yet??
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right have you tested the gear yet??
no not yet, have not tested anything, just gave them a visual check, gotta stop now and make the wife some tea. i'll be back ok2
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if you can put a pick of the radio gear and speed controllers you got that will help greatly and if any speed controllers are in the cars put them on too :-))
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can anyone identify the boat, what make and model it is? would make me sleep better if i knew
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boats called a krick avanti 2
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going to pick up an ESC tomorrow. got a steering servo and a battery. hopefully may get it running. think i may need a new rudder but it will do for now
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which is the best way to mount a rudder servo? from the side or in front or behind, which is the most effective?
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rudder servo position can be down to a lot of things. is it single or twin rudder for example. But for the most time its "how much room? determines the servo position.
a single rudder, its easier to mount the servo in front of and for "safety", attach a link on boides of the servo horn, so it both "pushes " and "pulls" to even the servo loading.
sometimes due to space limits, you have to mount the ruddr further away from the actual rudder post, so its either a longer servo rod, or use a cable inside a nylon tube.
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here is how much room i have. i also have removed the msc and have bought a esc which will also be mounted in the rear
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z260/agemax/100_1145.jpg)
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Well, now we can actually see the confines of your boat, it puts a different light on the subject somewhat.
personally i would prefver to "ditch" the bobs board and retrofit an electronic "esc", this saving you weight, a second servo and space.
Or
if you are reluctant to replace the esc, then mount the rudder servo as close as possoble, but without interrupting the bobs board operation, as close to teh bobs board you can. then the servo rod can run down the one side, direct to the rudder post, then it leaves the other side of the psace free to mount the second servo for the bobs board arm
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Well, now we can actually see the confines of your boat, it puts a different light on the subject somewhat.
personally i would prefver to "ditch" the bobs board and retrofit an electronic "esc", this saving you weight, a second servo and space.
Or
if you are reluctant to replace the esc, then mount the rudder servo as close as possoble, but without interrupting the bobs board operation, as close to teh bobs board you can. then the servo rod can run down the one side, direct to the rudder post, then it leaves the other side of the psace free to mount the second servo for the bobs board arm
i HAVE replaced the MSC with an electronic ESC. a mtroniks viper marine 20
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Well, simply mount the rudder servo forward of the rudder post, behind the esc [thats not shown on the picture], preferebly as central as poss to even the balance of the boat,.
or mount the rudder servo alongside the esc [if room allows] to again even up boat balance.
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the msc is removed, the new esc is not fitted yet as i wanted advice as to where to fit the steering servo. then i would fit the esc to balance it out. sorry but no recent pics with the msc removed
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From the position of the sticky tape and the length of the rods, the rudder servo was intended to fit on the right hand side near the stern (looking forward), the speed control servo on the other side. The only tricky bit is tracking up the servo arms and tiller and speed control linkages. Although ESCs in scale boats offer better control and greater efficiency at low speeds, and better matching to a wide range of motors, an MSC is actually more efficient in a boat that spends most of its time going flat out.
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well it has a esc now and i will mount it all tomorrow and post up some more pics wit it all fitted. a waterproof esc has got to be more reliable than an old msc :-))
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ok so i have the new esc fitted and the receiver and steering servo. it all works ok except the steering is back to front??? turn right it goes left etc.
dosent matter where i place the servo it works the same. how can i fix this?
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should be a reverse switch on your transmitter
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should be a reverse switch on your transmitter
there isnt its an old techiplus ap227 mk3 transmitter
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hi mate.
leave the control arm where it is on the rudder and put it on the opposite side of the servo arm,
this will mechanically reverse the servo.
regards
don
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ok so i finally worked out where to site the steering servo so it works correctly. the servo is secured and works fine. apart from tidiying up the cables before i secure them, does the receiver and the ESC look like they are in a good position?
thanks
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z260/agemax/100_1154.jpg)
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looks good to me good luck with it :-))
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It looks like it will hit the hull when steering to Port. Please tell me I'm wrong.
ken
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It looks like it will hit the hull when steering to Port. Please tell me I'm wrong.
ken
you are wrong, it wont Ken, it just misses but it gives me even steering from l to r without putting any strain on the servo
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Phew :}
The reason I wrote was that I find my servos need at least 50 degrees each side of top centre.
Glad it's OK.
ken
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Phew :}
The reason I wrote was that I find my servos need at least 50 degrees each side of top centre.
Glad it's OK.
ken
its an old servo, maybe it hasnt got enough turn on it, i dont know yet but if it hasnt i will have to get a new servo and start from scratch again
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hi mate,
your receiver and esc are both on the bottom of the boat.........
.I would have put them on the 'sides' as high as they would go .......out of any influx of water.....also in balloons.
regards
don
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hi mate,
your receiver and esc are both on the bottom of the boat.........
.I would have put them on the 'sides' as high as they would go .......out of any influx of water.....also in balloons.
regards
don
On the other hand, should it flip, they will then be at the new top, and might assist with self righting. An ESC inside a balloon might suffer with lack of cooling airflow, and in a fast boat its normal to tape the lid for waterproofing.
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Looking at the angles of the rudder servo and linkage you might end up with uneven throws left to right..... but it might just be my heli experience kicking in.... servos at 90 when centred lol
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Looking at the angles of the rudder servo and linkage you might end up with uneven throws left to right..... but it might just be my heli experience kicking in.... servos at 90 when centred lol
its as close as i can get it. its pretty even both ways within a few degrees. unless i buy a new servo, which i cant see will make any difference, i will have to stick with it
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is the big hole in the back standard. should it be like this and will it cause a problem with water getting in?
cheers
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z260/agemax/100_1155.jpg)
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Looking at the angles of the rudder servo and linkage you might end up with uneven throws left to right..... but it might just be my heli experience kicking in.... servos at 90 when centred lol
As E2V says, this is how you can set up your rudder linkage.
The Servo arm should be of equal length to the tiller (rudder) arm.
ie. the length from the centre of the servo spindle to the hole use to connect the link - it should be as near-as-dammit the same on the tiller arm.
iee. The 2 blue lines should be of equal length.
The neutral position of linkages should also be offset clockwise by about 20 - 30o so that you have equal throw left and right , without toughing the bulkheads.
ieee. The angles between the blue and green should be 90o
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is the big hole in the back standard. should it be like this and will it cause a problem with water getting in?
cheers
Should do... unless you are going backwards too fast!
Make sure the lid / cover is secured to the hull with string etc. and has flotation in case it comes adrift.
Also, fully check the hull for leaks in the bath... mine had several! >:-o
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As E2V says, this is how you can set up your rudder linkage.
The Servo arm should be of equal length to the tiller (rudder) arm.
ie. the length from the centre of the servo spindle to the hole use to connect the link - it should be as near-as-dammit the same on the tiller arm.
iee. The 2 blue lines should be of equal length.
The neutral position of linkages should also be offset clockwise by about 20 - 30o so that you have equal throw left and right , without toughing the bulkheads.
ieee. The angles between the blue and green should be 90o
so you are saying i should move the servo arm to the right a bit more? i am a bit confused
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Yes. Reposition both arms as in the diagram, and reset the rudder to neutral in this new position and test. :-))
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Yes. Reposition both arms as in the diagram, and reset the rudder to neutral in this new position and test. :-))
HMPPF
Beat me to it
Wot he said lol
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Ideally, with the rudder set straight, if you draw a line from the rudder post to the servo pivot point, both the servo arm and the tiller arm should be at 90 degrees to that line, preferably facing the same way. The connecting rod should then be the same length as the post-pivot line. If the servo arm fouls the panel, it is permitted to shorten it and use a hole nearer the pivot point. This means drilling a new hole to correspond in the tiller arm. Expect a servo throw of about 45 degrees each side. A rudder throw of this size is usually more than adequate.
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anyone know where i can get a decal set for it. original or repro? cant see any on ebay
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If you do ever find a set... buy me a single lottery ticket or a scratch card! ok2