Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Spook on October 13, 2011, 05:34:26 pm
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My Model Slipway Assurance Tug kit has finally arrived! I'm just waiting for a few bits and pieces, and I'll be making a start. Hopefully I'll be able to keep you up to date with pictures of the build as I go along.
I've marked out a plank of wood for the stand, using the supplied templates but, as it's been sitting in the damp shed for a few weeks I'd better let it dry out for a couple of days before letting the jig saw loose on it. I didn't think you'd really want to see a picture of a plank of wood, so I didn't bother taking one :}
I still can't decide whether to go for the WWII or civilian version but I don't have to make that decision just yet. The WWII version would probably be more interesting but, as 2/3 of my fleet are grey, I thought civilian colours might balance things up a bit.
Oh, and I've learned a new word as I studied the instructions - MOLGOGGER. No doubt I'll be using a few choice ones of my own as I progress/struggle with the build ok2
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Well, I made a start. Drilled out the holes in the hull for portholes and ports. There will be a lot of tidying-up, as the gel-coat around the portholes broke up quite a bit during drilling. I also made a pig's ear of drilling out for the prop tube as well. I was slightly off-centre and some of the outer casing came off the hull. Oh well, nothing that a spot of glue and some artistic use of filler can't fix. No pics yet, as I want to tidy it up before posting and I have had enough of fibreglass for one day.
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Sorry for the late reply (bit useless now) but when drilling fiberglass, I find it's helpful to drill undersize and step the hole up with a conical rotary file. The file doesn't lift and chip things, compared to a drillbit. They are very inexpensive and go right in your cordless drill.
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A conical rotary file sounds like a good idea. Maybe next time...
Anyway, here we go...
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSC03372.jpg)
PANTS! >:-o
(I started off with a small bit, worked up to 6.5mm and this happened. Oh well, time for epoxy, filler and hand-filing the hole.)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSC03373.jpg)
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Well, I made a start. Drilled out the holes in the hull for portholes and ports. There will be a lot of tidying-up, as the gel-coat around the portholes broke up quite a bit during drilling. I also made a pig's ear of drilling out for the prop tube as well. I was slightly off-centre and some of the outer casing came off the hull. Oh well, nothing that a spot of glue and some artistic use of filler can't fix. No pics yet, as I want to tidy it up before posting and I have had enough of fibreglass for one day.
Yep! This model shares the same hull as the Envoy and I had similar problems. I used about 12 different drills stepping up in size and still damaged the case where the prop tube runs in that very narrow section.
I also found gel coating came off the hull when drilling the portholes and anchor holes out. And that despite using many drills, stepping up in size again plus they were sharp drills. I tried a bit of tape over some holes but that didnt make a difference tbh.
The rudder shaft \ pintel thing is a real ball ache to set up but if you use a bit of cyano to tack it then slow setting epoxy, you can get it sorted. I also found fitting the fore and aft deck sections into the hull less than easy. The instructions say not to reduce the width of these but the hull was really straining to open up and accept them as they were. In the end I did resort to reducing the width a little to get them in the hull!
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I make holes in fibreglass as follows:
For portholes: drill a small hole to get the point of a tapered reamer in (usually 3-4mm). Then gradually turn the tapered reamer until the required hole size is achieved. (It is almost impossible to achieve a perfect round hole with a drill).
For the prop-shaft I drill a small hole, and then use 6mm and 8mm tapered round files. I first use the 6mm tapered file to the full diameter, then go in with the 8mm tapered file to the full diameter. DO NOT PUSH AND PULL as you would expect but push in and apply pressure turning the file anti-clockwise at the same time. Doing it this way will not chip the gel-coat.
The hull sides can be opened up by at least 50mm without causing any damage.
I hope the above helps.
Lawrie
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Thanks Lawrie. Yes, this is pretty much what I did with the portholes. Drilled small holes first of all then used a rounded/curved fine file to shape the holes which cleaned up most of the cracking.
To recover from the propshaft hole problem I used a combination of a Dremel at its lowest setting, with a small tungsten carbide grinding bit, going round and round enlarging the hole, then the aforementioned curved file to tidy it up. I'm busy for most of this weekend so, once I've fitted the propshaft, I'll build up around the broken end with filller/putty and Bob will be my uncle.
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Another tip prior to drilling holes for prop shafts or bow thrusters %)
Select a suitable sized nitrile o-ring....if needed deform the o-ring into an elliptical shape & secure to the hull [in the intended opening/intersection location] with a few drops of superglue
Fill the internal void of the o-ring with epoxy filler or 'karbog'....& smooth the top surface
When dry, the o-ring can be lifted out & you are left with a very tidy looking reinforcement ring plate
So even that you have more depth or thickness to drill through..........you end up with a surface that will greatly resist cracking of the external gel coat due to the fact you are reducing the propensity of chatter O0 .....Derek
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A little progress since my last post. The prop tube is now in and I have built up around it to replace the bits that came off when I was drilling. I have fitted the portholes and glazed them with waterproof PVA adhesive. This didn't go quite as well as I'd hoped, as there are a few bubbles. The deck supports are now in place, so I guess the next step is building and fitting the rudder assembly.
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A little progress since my last post. The prop tube is now in and I have built up around it to replace the bits that came off when I was drilling. I have fitted the portholes and glazed them with waterproof PVA adhesive. This didn't go quite as well as I'd hoped, as there are a few bubbles. The deck supports are now in place, so I guess the next step is building and fitting the rudder assembly.
Before fitting the pintle, you need to cut a little bit off the top otherwise, there isnt enough of the rudder post sticking through to fasten the rudder arm onto it (guess how I found out!). To be fair, it does show a diagram in the instructions indicating a little should be cut off but I missed it and am pretty certain it isnt mentioned in the text although I could be wrong there.
Do lots of trial fits especially regarding the rudder pintle. If it isnt glued in accurately, it will bind when the rudder is deflected. The base of the pintle needs to be chamfered to the curvature of the hull to get the hole truely vertical. I found many trial fits helped when taking a little at a time to match the hull curvature. When you are confident with that. tack everything in place with a little superglue. Then try the rudder over full deflection to port and starboard. If there is any binding, you need to find out why, re trim and re fit \ glue as necessary. Only when you are 100% certain you have no binding would I advise gluing with slow setting epoxy.
Using slow setting epoxy will allow you to constantly check nothing has moved and if so, make very minor correction to get everything free moving.
HTH.
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Thanks for that advice, unfortunately I only just saw it, as I haven't been on the forum much lately and had already fitted the rudder. :-))
Anyway the good news is that the rudder is fitted and working (just needs a bit of lube to waterproof it and stop it squeaking). I actually had to file a bit off the top of part EC1 (the big frame that the rudder fits into) as it was protruding too far inside the hull for the pivot to sit snugly. I didn't bother filing the pivot to fit the base of the hull, instead tacked it in position once I had it positioned correctly then used fast epoxy to hold it in it's permanent position and fill the gaps. A little risky I know but I waited until the epoxy was about to 'go off' and was a little less runny, to do the filling. The rudder shaft protrudes a little higher inside the hull than I would have liked, but the stern hatch above it will be hollow, so it won't foul the deck.
Now I'm trying to decide where to put the r/c bits. This will depend on what ballast I'm using. At the moment it looks like it will be bags of small pebbles, which are a bit bulky, but find their natural position in the hull quite nicely. I think I know what I'm going to do but, as I'm working 12-hour nights at the moment, I don't have a lot of time, so maybe I'll make a start during the week.
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Thanks for that advice, unfortunately I only just saw it, as I haven't been on the forum much lately and had already fitted the rudder. :-))
Anyway the good news is that the rudder is fitted and working (just needs a bit of lube to waterproof it and stop it squeaking). I actually had to file a bit off the top of part EC1 (the big frame that the rudder fits into) as it was protruding too far inside the hull for the pivot to sit snugly. I didn't bother filing the pivot to fit the base of the hull, instead tacked it in position once I had it positioned correctly then used fast epoxy to hold it in it's permanent position and fill the gaps. A little risky I know but I waited until the epoxy was about to 'go off' and was a little less runny, to do the filling. The rudder shaft protrudes a little higher inside the hull than I would have liked, but the stern hatch above it will be hollow, so it won't foul the deck.
Now I'm trying to decide where to put the r/c bits. This will depend on what ballast I'm using. At the moment it looks like it will be bags of small pebbles, which are a bit bulky, but find their natural position in the hull quite nicely. I think I know what I'm going to do but, as I'm working 12-hour nights at the moment, I don't have a lot of time, so maybe I'll make a start during the week.
Hmmm. I'd maybe reconsider the pebbles as ballast if I were you.
I found that with two 12v 4ah SLA's I needed quite a bit of lead to make the Envoy sit right in the water. I also have an MMB smoke generator and voltage convertor so there is quite a bit of ballast needed. although the hull looks quite cavernous, I found once I got all my gear and batteries in, there wasnt that much room.
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My r/c setup is very basic and at the moment there is loads of room in the hull. I was thinking of going down the lead route but I have no idea where I could get some locally. I have a couple of 1kg bags of small pebbles from Ikea and a long pebble beach about 50m from the lake (but don't tell anyone I'm going down there with a bucket :-)) )
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My r/c setup is very basic and at the moment there is loads of room in the hull. I was thinking of going down the lead route but I have no idea where I could get some locally. I have a couple of 1kg bags of small pebbles from Ikea and a long pebble beach about 50m from the lake (but don't tell anyone I'm going down there with a bucket :-)) )
Your local DIY store should have it on a roll and you can normally buy it in any length. I get mine from the local store about 24" by 6" at a time. The store isnt large so we arent talking B&Q type places.
Its used by builders as lead flashing on roofs.
HTH
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Ta. We have a Jewsons' and B&Q near us but not much in the way of local DIY or hardware shops, but I'll keep looking.
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Some progress pics. I (managed to get a roll of lead from Jewson's)
The fitted rudder - turns quite nicely, but a bit stiff at the extremes.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0260.jpg)
Motor, rudder servo and rudder arm. I fitted the rudder servo quite high so as to be as much in line as possible with the rudder arm. Problem was that when I came to slide in the aft deck, I had to cut away at some of the deck crossbeam support as the servo arm was fouling it. Still, it seems to support the deck OK.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0262.jpg)
R/C stuff, battery slot and some of the ballast.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0263.jpg)
Overall view, waiting for the deck filler to set.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0264.jpg)
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Yep, had similar issues with the rudder servo mounting and push rod fouling the cross beams so did same as you and had to cut a slot out!
I use some silicon sealer to fix the motor and hold the lead sheet in place and stop them moving about. Will you be running on 12v or 7.2v? Generally the m troniks speedos use 7.2v although dedicated marine one can use 12v.
I'd also try and position the rx higher up and away from the esc \ motor to avoid interference. You'll need an extension cable as the esc ones are short.
:-))
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I was thinking of moving the receiver up next to the rudder servo, although I have a similar setup to the current one in one of my other boats, which doesn't seem to give any problems. I'll give it a try as it is and move it if necessary, it's only held on with Velcro.
I have a 12v / 7Ah Graupner battery, which gives a few pounds of ballast, so I should only need to add a few small pieces of lead additional to that already installed for final trimming. The existing lead pretty much holds itself in place, as I have moulded it to the shape of the hull however, once final trimming is complete (and any excess lead snipped off) I shall fix it permanently to the hull.
The battery should be OK with the ESC.
I'm holding the battery in place with the pieces of wood and, for the base, strips cut from a non-slip mouse mat to stop it sliding forwards.
I have used "No More Nails" to mount the motor, as much as an experiment as anything, as it has done a sterling job of holding up a set of blinds at home, which take a hammering. ok2
My alter ego - Captain Clumsy - managed to spill the best part of a large mug of sweet black coffee all over my instruction booklet and work area this morning so, after a two-hour, frustration-removing attack on a huge pile of ironing, I am now working in a sepia hue, which I have to say is rather calming, if a little sticky. ok2
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I've made a little more progress, but not a great deal.
I moved the receiver to a higher position aft and added the main deck, filled and sanded, and made a start on the superstructure and wheelhouse. Next job is to paint the interior of the wheelhouse (and maybe add some features, I don't know).
I had a few gaps when fitting the wheelhouse, the side ones I can plug with filler but had some fairly big ones around the front of the wheelhouse, so I added some skirting, which should be unnoticeable when the screens are on.
The hull is just about done now so I need to get that primed and painted. This is decision time folks, do I do it in the Navy grey (that everyone else seems to have done this model in) or so I go for civilian colours? As most of my existing fleet is grey, I'll probably avoid that. I'm not too fussed about authenticity so I might just choose my own colour scheme.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0694.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0697.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0698.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0700.jpg)
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It's looking good :-))
I think you should make it a customized civillian scheme in your own towing company (maybe Spook Towing?). The story could be that it was sold to a differnet company when the other one was modernized.
I have the Tsekoa on order and it should be here next week :-)
Sam
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Hi guys
Just reading Sam's post (been lurking here for a while anyway), so I looked up the Assurance class tugs on http://uboat.net/allies/warships/class/355.html. In the list of 21 ships I found Frisky, Jaunty, and Saucy. I had always believed the names were only of Racia (sometimes called Frisky) class tugs. I looked a bit further found these three really were Assurance class but had the names of the earlier Racia class of ships. Just thought I'd pop that snippet in here. :-) Now I am wondering about the other 18 names ........... probably just getting Mayhemitis.
Regards Dave
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I've made a little more progress, but not a great deal.
I moved the receiver to a higher position aft and added the main deck, filled and sanded, and made a start on the superstructure and wheelhouse. Next job is to paint the interior of the wheelhouse (and maybe add some features, I don't know).
I had a few gaps when fitting the wheelhouse, the side ones I can plug with filler but had some fairly big ones around the front of the wheelhouse, so I added some skirting, which should be unnoticeable when the screens are on.
The hull is just about done now so I need to get that primed and painted. This is decision time folks, do I do it in the Navy grey (that everyone else seems to have done this model in) or so I go for civilian colours? As most of my existing fleet is grey, I'll probably avoid that. I'm not too fussed about authenticity so I might just choose my own colour scheme.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0694.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0697.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0698.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0700.jpg)
Looking good. The Assurance has the plasticard superstructure while Envoy has a GF one.
One word of advice, make sure you paint the tow hook house and structure before you glue the main upper deck down. It easier to paint the tow house structure before this is done.
I painted the hull, rear deck, engine room and tow hook housing before I stuck down the main deck which was also painted off the model.
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I don't know if you've put windows in and I don't know if clear plastic comes in the kit. A tip I found when making side windows in model aircraft is to use clear acetate or plastic from a folder. It's really thin, flexible and looks like glass.
Cheers
Sam
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110samec
PM sent.
Jackie
ModSlip
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I don't know if you've put windows in and I don't know if clear plastic comes in the kit. A tip I found when making side windows in model aircraft is to use clear acetate or plastic from a folder. It's really thin, flexible and looks like glass.
Cheers
Sam
Yes, I have added glazing - a sheet comes with the kit - much more than you need, which is just as well, as my clear plastic cutting skills usually necessitate several attempts. If you look very carefully, you can just about make out the strips of acetate or whatever it is. I was VERY sparing with the glue so as not to smudge the windows, but I bet I still manage cock it up when I put the frames on the outside.
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Yes, I have added glazing - a sheet comes with the kit - much more than you need, which is just as well, as my clear plastic cutting skills usually necessitate several attempts. If you look very carefully, you can just about make out the strips of acetate or whatever it is. I was VERY sparing with the glue so as not to smudge the windows, but I bet I still manage cock it up when I put the frames on the outside.
Could you use humbrol clearfix? That usually works for gluing things to clear plastic.
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I just used Humbrol Precision poly - with the long thin metal tube. Just a few tiny dots of glue did the job I have a few days off now so I'll start the painting , I think.
And if the weather takes a turn for the better, I might even take a jaunt to the lake with one of my other boats - it's been AGES!
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Alternatively, you can bin off the kit standard white metal port holes and buy some brass ones which come complete with pre cut perspex 'glass.' This is what I did on my Envoy although there is an extra cost, I think they enhance the model and make t look a lot better.
Just my opinion though!
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I took a short break from Assurance and built something a bit smaller than usual, just for a change (sadly not r/c).
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0706.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0708.jpg)
Well, a LOT smaller actually.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0710.jpg)
More Assurance pics coming soon...
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I took a short break from Assurance and built something a bit smaller than usual, just for a change (sadly not r/c).
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0706.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0708.jpg)
Well, a LOT smaller actually.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0710.jpg)
More Assurance pics coming soon...
Excellent builds :-))
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So I decided to go for the civilian scheme in the end. Spook Towing sounds like a plan (or a strange pastime).
I made a real mess of the wheelhouse doors and windows painting. Also, despite my most careful efforts not to get glue on the window transparencies, the glue fumes did for them instead, so minging windows as usual, I'm afraid.
I'm just waiting for a dry, wind-free day so that I can spray-varnish the hull, then I can crack on with the deck fittings.
The colour scheme is going to be very much a freestyle approach, although I am using mainly colours that I've seen on other tugs.
It's not coming together as neatly as I had hoped but, with a bit of luck, the finished product should pass muster.
Anyway here are a few update pics.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0759.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0760.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0761.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0762.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0763.jpg)
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Widows no problem. Push em out and re-fit with double sided sticky tape.
Are you using separate sheets for the windows, or do you use one large sheet to cover the cut outs in one go ?
ken
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Widows no problem. Push em out and re-fit with double sided sticky tape.
Are you using separate sheets for the windows, or do you use one large sheet to cover the cut outs in one go ?
ken
Ken I always thought you were a gentleman, not sure now.(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
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{-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Thats a great job you are doing Mr Spook, its turning into a nice looking model. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
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Thanks Dicky. It should look nice when it's finished. It looks better from a distance, but then mine usually do (as do I). ok2
I used a single sheet of transparency for each group of windows and was so sparing with the glue, but still managed to botch it. My hands aren't as steady as they used to be so the painting of and around the window & doors will need much touching-up.
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With my windows I normally run a small section of plastic bead under the window opening to rest the plastic on. I then use a bit of blutac on the end of a pencil to hold the
window plastic in place.
Next I run round the the outer edge of the window with a fine brush loaded with plastic weld while holding the window plastic hard in place till glue sets [does not take long]
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Good idea. I used Humbrol precision adhesive, the tiniest amounts dotted around the frames and it looked great - for about 2 minutes - then the fumes affected the plastic. Still, as long as no-one gest too close... ;-)
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I cheated with the wee Midas,I glued my windows in with PVA woodglue. ok2
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Just glazed my springer wheelhouse today using Humbrol precision poly cement with no probs.
I just run a very thin bead around the frame and the fit the glass.
Ned
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The portholes are glazed on my Dirty Harry Envoy but I didnt bother with the wheelhouse. TBH, at 2 feet away no one notices.
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I tried glazing the hull portholes with PVA adhesive as someone suggested somewhere (I forget where) but my efforts looked awful so , in the end, I painted them using a satin light grey. The superstructure and engine room cover portholes I have left open as I had lost the will to live by then, had entered 'can't be arsed' mode and decided that, if I did ship any water through them, it wouldn't make a ha'porth of difference. Rebel or what?
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PVA or thin drops of plastic cement should not fog the plastic. Harsher adhesives and cyanoacrylate glues will.
You might try dipping your window plastic in 'Future' floor wax to increase the clarity and protect it before you glue them in place.
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I cannot recall the trade name but it is produced for glueing canopies to model airplanes, works a treat. Shipmate60 will tell you the name, revell for one makes it.
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Exactly that Canopy Glue
Ned
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Not much visible progress lately. The hull has been satin varnished and lots of little white metal bits and bobs have been painted, which don't make interesting photos, so more when it gets interesting again :-)
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Can you show me the rudder area please - thanks
Dave
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Can you show me the rudder area please - thanks
Dave
Dave. Here it is, inside and out. The propshaft is still taped up as I may add another coat of varnish. The top of the rudder shaft is bolted and superglued to the tiller.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0914.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0915.jpg)
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A few more update pics. The foremast is in place, awaiting tidying-up and painting, engine room cover has had a basic coat of paint, which I hate, so will be repainted when the fittings have all been added and lots of small parts have been painted.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0906.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0907.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0909.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0910.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0912.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0913.jpg)
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:-)) Thanks
Dave
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It's amazing the difference a few days and a splash or two of paint can make.
Plenty more still to do but here are a few update pics.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0953.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0954.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0955.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0956.jpg)
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Looking really good!
Those small lockers are a real pain to build (well, I thought so!). I didnt fit all of them on my Dirty Harry Envoy build as many of them were for the military version. Also thought about buying some but decided against in the end.
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Nice Paint Job :-))
Dave
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Thanks Peeps. I've started to put it all together now. Just have to fit the ship's boats, finish off the rigging and touch up the paintwork then it's time for ballasting and 'sea-trials'.
I didn't do all of the lockers either, and omitted the rocket launchers, as it is a civillian tug. But I kept a few of the military lockers as I decided to do it in a postwar condition and I imagine that a few of the wartime bits and bobs would still be fitted.
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It's just about complete!!! :}
I just have to touch up the paintwork and get the ballast right. R/C has been tested and seems OK. Here are a few more pics...
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0977.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0978.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0979.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0980.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0982.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0983.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0984.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0985.jpg)
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Its looking great :-))
I like the wood finish on the lifeboat.
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That's the best "Splash of paint" that I've seen for a long time. Excellent job there, Spook. Well done.
:-)) :-)) :-))
ken
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Excellent job. Have you fitted a smoke unit?
She should sail a treat and am sure will get many admiring glances down the lake :-))
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Thank you all. I'm looking forward to sailing her as soon as I've sorted the ballast (and the wind drops). I still have to name her but can't decide yet what to call her. I have a few ideas.
The wood effect on the lifeboats was simply a really 'cruddy' Humbrol matt brown applied very thinly then worried to death with a paintbrush. I used the same technique on the aft deck hatch and the capstan plinth but I don't think they're too clear in the photos.
I haven't fitted a smoke unit but I have been thinking about it. The funnel is open into the hull so it could be done later. I'll see how she performs first of all.
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Now I'm confused. I'm showing as a guest in my earlier posts - summat to do with the login file problem and me having to re-register I guess.
Anyway - she has passed her sea-trials with flying colours and has been officially named as 'WITCH' operated by Spook Towing.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF0999.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1001.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1003.jpg)
I'm still adding little cosmetic bits and pieces, so wil post more pics as and when. Also I'll try and get some of her on the lake.
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Nice one! Get them sailing pics up!
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Wilco! :-))
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Sorry I took so long to get these sailing photos but I finally managed to bribe my photographer with chocolate.
There was a bit of a stiff breeze gusting around the lake today, which made sailing 'quite interesting' but Mrs Spook did a good job with the camera. :-)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1379.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1434.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1384.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1407.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1409.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1416.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1458.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1462.jpg)
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A credit to you Spook, it's a cracking model and you've done M.S. proud to boot - wish I could splash my paint on that well O0 {-)
Regards, tony. :-))
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I agree with Tony - a credit to you and very nice. What's next on the build list?
Dave
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Thank you. I have to admit that I am rather pleased with the result. It was a nice build. Although I managed to make my usual quota of mistakes she looks good so, as my teenage daughter would say, 'it's all gravy'.
Sadly I have no more space to store any more boats so I'm probably not going to be building again for some time. :((
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I forgot to post this pic - Attack of the giant mutant swan...
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1385.jpg)
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Ha!
I have only just noticed the Spook on the funnel close up - very nice touch that - love it O0
Re lack of space - I run a shelter for rescue pets boats so I can help you with that. :D
Dave
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LOL, I'm also flying a small black and white Spook pennant fron the foremast.
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Mr. Spook, I am currently building an Assurance Class Tug, I am inspired by your hard work, the colour scheme looks quite correct.
Tim in California
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Mr Spook
That is a truly inspirational model, well done. Paint job is first class.
Regards
Mike
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What are you up to now Spook?
Dave
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Sorry, haven't been on for a week or several.
I'm not building at the moment. I have run out of space to store any more boats and I can't bear to get rid of any of my existing fleet. Maybe another garden shed is the answer, but goodness knows where I'll fit it in.
(Although I'm angling to relocate Amethyst elsewhere in the house so it might be a case of 'watch this space' ok2 )
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While you are not building Spook how about giving us a little review of your fleet?
Also have you any models you want to improve? - that takes no extra space up.
Dave
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Well, I've dropped a few subtle hints about another build and none of them has met with even a grunt of disapproval from SWMBO.
This is my storage problem. there's nowhere else in the house that I can put anything.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF2205.jpg)
I think I can just about squeeze another one in if I relocate the r/c plane and use the table to display the as yet unknown build. :-))
As to improving any of them, just behind the sofa lurks my first ever r/c build, a Northwind 36 semi-scale racing yacht, now sadly without r/c (plundered) and badly in need of a makeover, so I think I'll crack on with that in the interim. :}
Also, the Amethyst has never sailed on the pond, as she is not ballasted properly. Unfortunately, every time I have a go at ballasting her I manage to break something on the model, as there's not much space to work inside her. Maybe I'll have one last try - or maybe pluck up the courage to say to Her Indoors, "By the way, I've got a boat on order." Possibly after a couple of stiff G&Ts. ok2
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Spook you might have space - maybe build boat stands that two up - double decker style O0
or even a glass coffee tabe that stores and displays two boats (hmmn - masts?)
Dave
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You have lots of room Spook, you have a long way UP to go before you hit the roof. However I am not too sure about Dave's double decker coffee table.LOL. Mick B.
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You have lots of room Spook, you have a long way UP to go before you hit the roof. However I am not too sure about Dave's double decker coffee table.LOL. Mick B.
Correct me if I'm wrong but those look like blinds behind the boats, so Im gusessing there's a big window behind them
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Yes they do look like blinds, so just think of the brilliant window display he would have. MickB.
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What you could do is build a table with a shelf under it for the plane and you can store the boat on top.
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Smooth flawless painting and outstanding model.
You must have ONE understanding lady with all those models!
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LOL to all of you. :} :} :}
OK...
It is a big window behind the blinds that overlooks next door's conservatory, with similar blinds, so he'd never see them.
I was thinking of going UP but the attic is already full of cr*p.
There are already a modeling table and a cofee table in the conservatory so I couldn't fit another one in, what with all the clothes drying racks that keep appearing in there.
So... I bought 2 new servos today and have started work on renovating the yacht. TBH there's not a great deal to do.
Refit the r/c and test it (done).
Cean off the dust, accumulated dirt and dinosaur snot.
Fit new stanchions and rails (courtesy of surplus from other kits)
Add a few bits of eye-candy.
Wait for a sunny day with not too much wind and GET DOWN THE LAKE! :} :} :}
... and, yes, she is a wonderful woman but, as my passion (apart from model boats) is musical instruments and hers is as many foreign holidays as can be fitted into a 12-month period, I'm still the cheaper option. :-))
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{-) My other half ain't cheap either Spook - you're up late toight
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...you're up late toight
Yeah, I was preparing for a run of 12-hour night shifts, so I usually do it by staying up until stupid o'clock then lie in until mid-day. (Sometimes it helps)
I'll start a thread about restoring my Northwind 36 yacht, I think. I doubt it will be as interesting as a complete build but you never know, it may help somebody somewhere.
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Smooth flawless painting and outstanding model.
Thank you. I was asked at the lake on Sunday whether Assurance was spray-painted. The funny thing is, only the hull below the waterline is sprayed, the rest is hand-painted and close up it looks like it as well. Call me Mr Blobby ok2
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Well, no new builds on the go as yet. I have to make a repair to Assurance, after the rudder post came loose, but I have been busy restoring my Northwind racing yacht, which is now good to go. Just waiting for some light airs. {:-{
Here's the thread... http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38350.0