Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => The "Black Arts!" ( Electrics & Electronics ) => Topic started by: davidsg1a on October 21, 2011, 09:54:51 am
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Iv got this switch and cant remmember how to wire it, so i need to know where to put the motor and where to put the power, hopefully you guys with masive brains can help.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1po71ee04/101_1070.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1po71ee04/)
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Any markings on it?
When you work it from the radio or servo tester does it go "click"? If it dies then its a relay type and you can use your meter on continuity (resistance) to check for contacts and their operation. If its a solid state device, you would be looking at voltages.
Of course, finding where the instructions hid themselves would be first prize.
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Theres a red dott on the far right connector, no clicks come off it, the instruction would be handy but cant seem to find them. <:(
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Do you have a meter ? It will tell you everything you wish to know.
First thing is measure voltage when connect up to R/X before doing any continuity tests.
There might be a chance you blow back to the R/X and damages it.
keep us posted
ken
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Iv tried testing it through the rx and dosent seem to be any power in the switch, it must be broke.
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Hi davidsg1a
This looks like the same one as you have may be a idea to send them a message's
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDERLESS-RC-Switch-Lights-Model-Boats-Cars-/120786972200?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c1f76ee28 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDERLESS-RC-Switch-Lights-Model-Boats-Cars-/120786972200?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c1f76ee28)
Or this is is web site http://www.mr-rcworld.co.uk/ (http://www.mr-rcworld.co.uk/)
Hope it helps jason :-))
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Thanks very much for that Jason, :-)) that was the right instructions and thank you Ken and Malcom for in put. :-))
David
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Cheers Davidsg1a.
I had never seen one of these. Now I know what it is (from Ebay info) I might consider getting a few myself. They appear to have live and neutral going in, and on full T/X movement, outputting up to 20 amps live and neutral.
You'll have to meter it on test and let us know the terminal connections and how it performs under load please.
regards
Ken
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I'm fairly sure the two outside connectors are the power in., +ve marked with red dot and the inner two are for the power out , again +ve on the "dotted"side. If you connect it then to a spare channel then you can switch whatever you want. I don't believe them to be "latched" although I do know you can buy them like that.
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They appear to have live and neutral going in, and on full T/X movement, outputting up to 20 amps live and neutral.
Must be Chinese Amps, Kenny (judging by the size of the heat sink..................)
DM
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You can buy two differing amperage ones on ebay, but to my knowledge they aren't marked. I thought they were about 3 or 8 amp only but.........
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May be ok for switching lights or a very small motor but as DM says no way 20A at 30V
The startup current of a large model motor would be too much
Ned
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Must be Chinese Amps, Kenny (judging by the size of the heat sink..................)
DM
They make Chinese amps in the UK now ;D
It can probably handle the amps as its not switching constantly like an ESC.
Nick
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Hi all, we have a saying in the auto industry when talking about horse power, " Japanese ponies & German horses" A hundred Japanese horsepower is about eighty German horsepower. Mick B.
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And in Hi-Fi terms, 500watts American =250 British ones. :-))
Regards Ian.
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And in Hi-Fi terms, 500watts American =250 British ones. :-))
Regards Ian.
Have a look at http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/powerart_a.htm and scroll down about 1/3 of the page, have a read at "music power".
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Used to work in it Malcolm. Chuckled at a banner on a "Ghetto blaster" - 2500mW output.
Regards Ian.