Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail R&D: => Topic started by: malcolm.howard2 on November 23, 2011, 10:49:44 am
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My first sailing ship
(http://s12.postimage.org/ou5e4692h/Linnet_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ou5e4692h/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/jewo37hih/Linnet_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jewo37hih/)
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Pictures of my sailing square rigger . This vessel is scratch built from plans of Mr Bolyes Stright Runner it uses sail winches with modifyed drums to haul the yards around
M.H.
(http://s11.postimage.org/6qf8m0hnj/Linnet_Build_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6qf8m0hnj/)
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Nice job can you give us her dimensions & and some sailing photos please
Jimmy
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Malcolm
This is lovely :}
There is a lively gaggle of keen and enthusiastic sailing modellers her at Mayhem
And they appreciate a nice square-rigger like this
andrew
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Yes, great job. :-))
Love to see some photos. :}
I am also curious, how has she been ballasted?
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tiger/tiger I have fitted a length of steel hydraulic ram rod 2ft long, under keel it wheighs 20lbs as a test piece, it sails ok but when i cast my lead keel i will lower it by 2inchs to cope whith gale force winds. When i post next photos you will be able to see brackets + bar which is adjustable front to rear
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Very beautiful ship, Mr. Howard. I wish my first, or second, or third, etc. looked as nice :-)
A better method to deal with strong winds is to devise a way to remove sails (or reef or furl them). I use sail removal, and it works (as is should, after all, as sail reduction is the way real squareriggers deal with high winds). Study paintings of real ships to learn which sails to remove as the wind picks up. A great book on squarerigger practice is John Harland's "Seamanship in the Age of Sail." I remove topgallants first, then courses if necessary, following actual ship practice in the 1800's. In the 1600's, the sequence would be topgallants, then topsails, then courses. 1700's practice varied.
The problem with simply adding more ballast (or giving it a longer lever arm) is that it leads to more strain on the rigging, particularly in gusts. If your ship is heeling excessively in light airs, then by all means lower the ballast. But as a method to make your ship more gale-worthy, I'd not recommend it.
One further advantage to reducing sail is that it changes the look of your vessel. After you've collected many photos of your beautiful ship at sea, you will probably appreciate the possession of a varied collection :-)
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When speaking of your ballast vs. gales, I was assuming you are already using an external fin keel. If you are not, but are just using the hull alone as your "fin", then by all means lower the ballast with a fin keel. I don't think squareriggers work well to windward without a fin keel addition. They suffer from a lot of windage due to all the spars and rigging aloft (compared to a modern racing sloop). Thus, they need to generate more lift from the keel (to counter their excessive drift to leeward) than the model hull can provide, in my experience. With a large enough fin keel, my square riggers work to windward very nicely; I can sail to anywhere in the pond, and return to my starting harbor, only limited by the wind (it's harder to beat squareriggers in light airs than fore&aft vessels, due to the windage issue). My 2 and 3 foot hull ships have a fin keel about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide, made of plywood. I bolt the fin to an aluminum L that I've screwed to the bottom of the hull. This makes transport in my car easier since I can easily remove and install the fin. I drill several holes in the aluminum before the first sail, making it easy to move the fin fore or aft if necessary.
I should say that I believe Jimmy James eschews fin keels, and seems to sail his vessels just fine :-). For my ships, however, it seems a necessity. I've experimented with different sizes. My small ones don't work well, leading to excessive drift to leeward. A square rigger will spend 80% of its time on a beat (measured with my Pamir, 4-masted barque). So, optimizing the beat makes for more fun sailing, at least for me.
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BROOKS
I don't normaly use extream keels , though I have done. I don't like internal ballast except for trimming. What I normaly do is extend the keel with 4 or 5 bits of flashing lead about 4 or 5 inches this is molded to the hull with P38 this usualy gives me a draught of 8 to 10 inches which as our lake is beach launched is not to extream and all you need are wellys
Jimmy
(http://s11.postimage.org/9m6zdcdrj/Best_of_show_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9m6zdcdrj/)
New by Jamie
Inshore
When lighting flashes and thunder rolls
Like the God of Storms is playing bowls
Stow your courses and reef your mizzen
And beat offshore like your fleeing prison
Clear the headland and the reef
And make your offing like a fleeing thief
It’s only when in waters wide
T’will be safe for Jack to turn and ride
Aaaah!!!! Me thinks’ the Lady
Though small and fair
Has a rye sense of humour
That far travels hath lain bare
Jamie
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Build pictures
(http://s9.postimage.org/ic3p5xt0b/DSCF0057.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ic3p5xt0b/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/pjtox275r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pjtox275r/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/6ewen5wp5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6ewen5wp5/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/a0w8zxyv3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a0w8zxyv3/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/qdc9pjhe1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qdc9pjhe1/)
M H
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My first sailing ship. After more than fifty years of model boating I have finally scratch built a square rigger, The hull was the easy bit, it is plank on frame, The rigging was very hard work, I did not realize how many ropes there are on these ships, Also the complications of making the masts and bow sprit fold up to fit in my car. Her dimensions are at Water line 42 inch Overall 50 inch 127cm LOW 76 inch 183cm Height from keel to top of main mast 76 inch 183cm Beam 13 inch 33cm Hull weighs 21 lbs + 28 lbs of ballast. Total of 49lbs. I do have a good adviser, who lives very close to me, JIMMY JAMES he is my rigging advisor, etc, etc. Many thanks to him, He is know teaching me how to sail it, or trying to?
(http://s7.postimage.org/ec6z8px7b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ec6z8px7b/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/mv77jcd23/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mv77jcd23/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/ktpvs87kn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ktpvs87kn/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/f0e4kqz2p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f0e4kqz2p/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/xv9vb5z4h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xv9vb5z4h/)
MH
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Next Batch
(http://s12.postimage.org/k1kjvse6h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k1kjvse6h/)
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(http://s12.postimage.org/x7021w821/b11.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x7021w821/)
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I did not realize Jimmy James was your adviser...my advice was Coals to Newcastle :-)
Very beautiful on the water, Well Done!
One comment: Boyle (British 1930's freesailing squarerigger modeler) did not like shrouds on a model since they limit yard swing. Without yard swing of at least 60deg off perpendicular to the hull, it's more difficult to get good performance to windward. Boyle was my mentor, via his articles preserved on the Web; he eschews shrouds, installing backstays only, and I've followed his method.
There are ways to hang the yards that allow more than the typical 45deg swing allowed by shrouds. If you find yourself wanting better beat angles (via increased yard swing), then you might look at the posts and methods of DanL over on rcgroups.com; his brig Syren is museum class, yet still sails well.
Boyle's 1930's square-rigging tips:
http://www.swcp.com/usvmyg/squarerig/sq1.htm
My Pamir construction, sailing, and experimentation thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743611
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This is how i have fitted my temporary keel , It is adjustable bow to stern by slackening two clamp bolts and sliding in brackets, It is a piece hydraulic ram rod, I had saved it for future use
(http://s7.postimage.org/r83bebhwn/DSCF0103.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r83bebhwn/)
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... It is adjustable bow to stern by slackening two clamp bolts and sliding in brackets,...
(http://s7.postimage.org/r83bebhwn/DSCF0103.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r83bebhwn/)
Excellent and simple solution to the trimming fore and aft problem.
I think I am about to retro-change the design on mine.
Thanks for the idea :-)) :-)) :-))
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Tiger Tiger the ballast weight is only temporary, As it is a very good weed collector on the pointy bit, The new one will be blended into the keel , It is handy to see the effect of moving it has on sailing, To obtain best position. MH
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Maiiy
See you've got the hang of posting Photos ,there will be no stopping you now. Next thread the Crane Barge I take it
Jimmy
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Jimmy. Crane barge, what crane barge is that,?
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That big ugly block of flats with the derrick on it that keeps blocking up the launching slip
Jimmy
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Hi Jimmy (Beauty is in the eye of the beholder) ok, she is not the pretiest, she is differant in many ways, i will take some photos and post them soon.