Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => The "Black Arts!" ( Electrics & Electronics ) => Topic started by: Patrick Henry on December 30, 2011, 09:13:19 am
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Guys, is there anyone (commercial company or anybody on here) who makes up power leads to order?
I've just bought two 5 cell, 6 volt 3300a/h battery packs with fitted Tamiya plugs, and I need a lead made up to connect the two packs together to give me 12volts output. I need a pair of Tamiya sockets ending in a single Tamiya plug to connect to my Mtroniks Viper esc, and also to allow me to charge both packs together via my Graupner Multilader charger.
This is one of the battery packs...
(http://s16.postimage.org/v0baq0175/6v33002new.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v0baq0175/)
This is the esc...
(http://s17.postimage.org/p47prqq6z/VIPERmarine15_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p47prqq6z/)
Thanks,
Rich
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If you can't find anyone, you can get all the parts to make up what you want here... http://www.giantcod.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=tamiya&x=12&y=10&max=50
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Cheers DG...I just thought it would be nice(and look better)to have some nice and tidy leads made up...and be safer too. My soldering skills are pretty limited, I'm afraid...my soldered joints tend to look like a donkey's hind leg. {:-{
Rich
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Mr H
I personally would only recommend www.Component-Shop for this project as again in my opinion they do the best and at a good price. I go there for all of my Trade Battery Items as well as my personall model making batteries and leads etc. They actually import from China themselves and also supply a large proportion of the Trade in this country.
Regards
Mr S
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Ah, good day to you, Mr S...do you make up leads mate?
Mr H
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Component Shop are the people you want for batteries, leads, quick service and cheap postage Rich. :-))
Component-Shop.co.uk Ltd
www.component-shop.co.uk
1 Llwyn Bleddyn
Llanllechid
Bangor
LL57 3EF
Tel: 0843 2898528 (Mon - Fri, 10-4:30pm)
or 0782 5511877 (Mon - Fri, 10-4:30pm)
Fax: 08707 052556
Ordering: orders@component-shop.co.uk
Technical: technical@component-shop.co.uk
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Cheers Dicky...looks like I'm going to have a go at making up a set of leads.
Keep looking towards Eastbourne...if you see a big cloud of black smoke rising over the South Downs you'll know I tried. And failed...miserably.
Rich
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SHGModels have them
see item 4 on page 12 of their catalogue http://www.shgmodels.com/acatalog/shgmodels2011catalogue40.pdf
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I standardised on Deans style connectors sometime ago, and never looked back. Far prefer them to the expensive Tamiya connectors, they take oddles of current, and are a cinch to solder up.
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U33 PM sent :-))
Dave
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Here's one I made earlier...
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That's the one I need...2x6volt packs wired together to give me 12volts.
You make it look so easy.... <:(
Rich
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JUst send an email to Component Shop and they will quote a price. technical@component-shop.co.uk
Barrie
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Gentlemen, I thank you all for the valuable assistance and all the ideas...the lead is being made up for me as I type, the problem is solved.
Learning to solder properly and learning to take a decent photo are my two New Year's resolutions...
Thanks to Martin for the pics...and thanks to Dave for his very kind offer.
Rich
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If you don't fancy soldering, you could always use a 'chocolate block' connector. Not as pretty but...
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I did think of the good old choccie blocks Martin, but then I'd be stuck with them on any other boats that the battery packs may go in.
But thanks to Dave, the Welsh Wizard, my lead is being made up...he's a top bloke. O0
Rich
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Hey Rich if you do your Novice Licence (radio) they teach you how to solder {-) {-) {-) {:-{ you could take Martin with you ,one of his joints look a bit (lot) rough, O0 %%
Peter :D
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Oh, very good Peter...I guess I walked right into that one, didn't I? O0
(mutter mutter.... {:-{ )
Rich
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Cor blimey Rich....get yourself down to Aldi and buy a soldering set to practise with, then get onto ebay and buy youself some sets of Deans connectors and some wire and heat shrink, then make up your own leads
:-))
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One step ahead Nige...I have to go shopping today, so it's a quick trip to Maplins(opposite the supermarket)and buy myself a decent soldering iron. The one I have is nearly as old as me, and like me, it's knackered!
I wonder if there's a 'old farts guide to soldering' book....
Rich
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http://www.maplin.co.uk/the-art-of-soldering-11541 (http://www.maplin.co.uk/the-art-of-soldering-11541) for the book
http://www.maplin.co.uk/50w-solder-station-35016 (http://www.maplin.co.uk/50w-solder-station-35016) for the best VFM iron
Dave M
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If you are getting a decent Soldering iroon for goodness sake get one with loads of Watts for the deans I use a 100 watter But a goood 40 watter will do hte job
Dave
ps pm me your addy will you
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I'll probably get shouted down here but....I ALWAYS use a tin of flux when I solder, regardless of the fact that I use flux cored solder. The Deans plugs I hold in a pair of pliers with a lacky band round the handles, then I dip the 2 metal prongs into the flux before applying the gun and solder, this builds up a nice lump on the prongs ready to accept the (Pre soldered) wires. :-)
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http://www.maplin.co.uk/the-art-of-soldering-11541 (http://www.maplin.co.uk/the-art-of-soldering-11541) for the book
http://www.maplin.co.uk/50w-solder-station-35016 (http://www.maplin.co.uk/50w-solder-station-35016) for the best VFM iron
Dave M
Thanks Boss...I'll get me one of those later today.
If you are getting a decent Soldering iroon for goodness sake get one with loads of Watts for the deans I use a 100 watter But a goood 40 watter will do hte job.
Dave
ps pm me your addy will you
Thanks Dave...my old one is only 15watts, just looked on the handle. No wonder it doesn't get hot...
PM and email on the way, BTW.
Rich
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Nige52's tip on adding a little extra flux is a good one. I do that sometimes, as it does help the joint wet out nicely.
A 15 watt iron is only good for soldering electronic components. I find a good 25 watt iron will just about work, but 50 watts will do just about anything model related, unless you're making something very big.
I tend to use a set of those 'helping hands' when soldering the deans connectors. I pre-tin the wire, and the connector, then just sweat the two together, perfect result every time, unless you forget to put the heatshrink on to the cable first, not that I've ever done that you understand.....!
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Lots of soldering lessons on YouTube...
http://youtu.be/9zYtQFJLvR8
http://youtu.be/0cl5QI4pqKc
http://youtu.be/BxeDkcAa4Fs
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Flux? We don't use it for production as we are only permitted to use lead-free solders. If you MUST use flux then be sure to wash it all off thoroughly after the joint has cooled; use soapy water for acid-based flux and standard thinners for resin-based flux, applying with a stiff brush like an old toothbrush and working the solvent right into all the corners near the soldered joint. If you don't then the stuff will carry on slowly corroding the surface of the metal and eventually the joint will fail.
Both of my soldering stations are analogue temperature controlled. I use a old Union Brothers type from Maplins, fitted with a 3.5mm chisel tip for larger joints and tinning stranded cables.The other is a Weller which cost nearly £200 with the iron, but it is like a magic wand for smaller joints with a 1.2mm pointed tip.
It's the best maxim in the world that there's nothing which beats the right tool for the job. As for soldering guns, I wouldn't have one in the workshop. I found them clumsy and unwieldy to use, with a heat setting which can damage anything delicate in no time flat if you're not very careful.
Soldering electronics is easy if you remember a few basic rules:
Hold the workpiece steady while you solder. I find a good old bulldog clip is as useful as any fancy multi-clamp (which I have also tried and discarded). Wooden clothes pegs are useful for holding smaller components where you don't want the heat conducted away e.g. those Tamiya metal sockets and plugs. For repeat work we use jigs made from scrap MDF, ply and pasticard.
Make sure you have a good level of light and that you can see the joint clearly. If you need reading specs then wear them. I have a pair of 2.5x magnifying lenses which clip onto my standard specs and flip up and down as required - perfect!
Keep the tip of the iron clean at all times. A quick wipe of the tip across a damp sponge as you put the iron back into the stand, and again when you lift it out to use, should become automatic.
Use the right size tip. A pointed tip for tinning thick cable or soldering large components is a waste of time; you'll never get the joint hot enough. You should buy an iron with interchangeable tips to allow you to select the correct size for the job.
Use the right temperature for the solder used - this should be shown on the reel. Typically leaded solder will be around 270 degrees while lead-free is much higher (370).
Never carry solder to the joint on the iron tip. Tin the tip and use it to apply the heat to the joint, then tin the joint before bringing the components together.
Allow the joint to cool before you move it. This avoids dry joints.
On PCBs, clean off any surplus flux around the soldered joints with either isopropyl alcohol or meths; for lead-free stuff we have to use a proprietary brand of cleaner called Total Clean 200, but it's over a tenner a can!
Sorry if this sounds a bit like "my way or the highway" but I've done a fair bit of soldering over the last five years and this advice - for what it's worth - is born of that experience.
Like someone once said, suit yourselves.
Dave M
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Just to add to DMs advice - cleanliness is almost everything. The items to be soldered must be clinically clean and the metal must be bright. Any dirt will spoil the join, any surface corrosion will prevent the join happening.
Most modern soldering tips are plated. In the elder days, they were copper, and needed regular dressing with a file, then re-tinning. This must never happen with a plated bit - a quick wipe on the damp sponge does the job of gently removing unwanted residues and ensures that the bit will have a long life. Removing the residues by filing or sandpapering will damage the plating and cause the tip to corrode and destroy itself very quickly.
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Thanks for the excellent advice gents, and also to DM @ ACTion for the 'how to' guide. Soldering has never been one of my strong points....yes, I know a lot of you chaps find it easy, but it's one of those things that I've always struggled with. I either end up with a joint half an inch thick, and then have to spend ages filing the excess solder off the joint, or making a perfect looking joint that falls to pieces in seconds.
I discovered a while back that we have a model engineering society in the village where I live, so my next task is to go along to one of their meetings (held in the local village hall just a hundred yards from where I live) join myself up and get some 'hands on' advice.
Thanks again to all of you who contributed to my post, much appreciated.
Rich
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There's a world of difference between structural soldering, plumbing, and light electrical component soldering. Many of the engineering society members will have good expertise at silver soldering and brazing big lumps of brass together, but might well be as lost as I am in that field when presented with some wires to fasten together. The big similarity is that they all need the right tools and materials for the job.
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I have four soldering irons I regularly use.
15w and 25w Antex irons. The Maplin 'el cheapo' temprature controlled 50w job linked to earlier and a big old iron with an unknown rating; it's an oldie as it has a bakelite handle and is akin to soldering with a poker!
The one that gets the most use is the Antex 25W. It's man enough to solder pretty thick cables, and handles well. The Maplin iron is exceptional value for money, I got mine for a tenner when they were on special offer a couple of years ago. I find the iron itself is rather more cumbersome than the petite Antex though.
The 15W Antex iron is reserved for very small jobs and soldering up PCB's, doesn't get anywhere near the use of the 25W version.
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Rich,
Most things are easy when you know how to and have a bit of practice.
You just have to know how and get in some practice!!
Bob
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Soldering technique demonstrated by my son aged about 6 at the time lol
(http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee322/Essex2Visuvesi/DSC00083.jpg)