Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: tt1 on February 04, 2012, 10:52:42 pm
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For anyone to whom it may be of interest, esp Dicky! here goes with my build log of the above. I'll tell it like it is /was, which maybe of some help to newcomers or anyone who may want to build this model. As I'm not the quickest of builders I thought it wise to get well into the model before posting so that the time between posts and pics are not too great. Downside of this of course is that any hints, tips, or constructive criticism that members would like to throw in or advise on, (which are always welcome as I'm also on here to learn), may come a little too late for this build - but - please feel free to chuck in your twopenworth, hopefully there's always another model to make and advice can always be put to good use. Flattery isn't the name of the game.
As is usual for me I'll start with the boring bits zzzzzzzzzzzzzz! {-)
First pic, needed extra table space for easier access to both sides of the model so made this sturdy but level and removable extension.
(http://s14.postimage.org/zckr97i2l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zckr97i2l/)
Now the stand .......... gripping stuff eh?
(http://s8.postimage.org/k325weh5d/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k325weh5d/)
I always (well at least three times!) like the stand to hold the hull square, parallel to the keel and to hold the hull rigidly in the exact location everytime without any juggling. (that comes later if I cock up)
Achieving that wasn't at all easy with this hull, the smooth and almost equal curves side to side and fore and aft mean't the base had to replicate the hull shape exactly to prevent movement. There was a slight twist in the keel, front to back, and had to use packers to overcome the variation. Eventually managed to get it spot on but took 2 days.
(http://s11.postimage.org/n1qp0if3z/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n1qp0if3z/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/iu60m18bf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iu60m18bf/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ibefkg575/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ibefkg575/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/rzrvnl00h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rzrvnl00h/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/aortkpcmr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aortkpcmr/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/sins5dcnb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sins5dcnb/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/4x1t7sfhh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4x1t7sfhh/)
Noticed by the edge of the spirit level, what looked like a bit of a crack in the rubbing strake - (if that's what it's called) you know the bumper bit around the top of the hull, anyway had a little pick and look see and found this:
(http://s7.postimage.org/pq47wbxp3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pq47wbxp3/)
Bit of a blow hole /void, decided to check all round by gently tapping the bumper with the tang of a file listening for any difference in resonance -
(http://s7.postimage.org/lwfd0x5qv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lwfd0x5qv/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/avnw6rfar/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/avnw6rfar/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/gme2khnar/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gme2khnar/)
ah well have plenty of filler {-) This is what I also use as well of the proprietary car body filler, Chemical Metal - love it - strong, grips really well and can be drilled etc without chipping, many times have found it to be far better in some applications than the more softer putty or body filler, can even build up an edge with it.
(http://s15.postimage.org/5om3o0q4n/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5om3o0q4n/)
That's it for now, will add more soon, ta ta and regards, Tony. :-))
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I think I would of got that hull changed Tony, poor moulding to say the least..
Russ
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Tip one.
You should have got an ironing board Tony, dead easy to work on both sides.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Maggie%20M/DSCF0236.jpg)
Tip two.
Should have sent the hull back, not good.
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Hi Tony
Just here to say I'm tagging along even if I don't say too much :}
(that might be something new for me %))
Dave
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Are you exchanging the hull Tony?
I for one would not accept one in that condition.
Like buying a new car and finding a large dent and
saying 'never mind I've got plenty of filler :(( :(( :((
Ned
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Are you exchanging the hull Tony?
I for one would not accept one in that condition.
Like buying a new car and finding a large dent and
saying 'never mind I've got plenty of filler :(( :(( :((
Ned
yes, all be it, a little substandard, but nothing like buying a car.....you're not paying 25 grand for a model kit, and what is a little bit of filling between friends ....
these are not multibillion dollar companies, but cottage industries, that perform well on a little good will from their customers, and also all hand laid up!
do you want these companies to give up and leave you back to the dark ages of wooden kits with very little character.
and I would have thought a certain modeller on here would have learned his lesson from slagging off Speedline models so many times that Speedline don't even bother to contact him any more.
For god's sake, what's wrong with getting your hands dirty once in a while and putting a little filler into a model boat for a change......after all, you all that have said you'd send it back are modellers....you've proved it by showing your models on here...........and you want the products for the cheepest prices you can get???
Instead of publicly flogging a manufacturer for your own gratification and ego's do as tt1 has done and get on with it...shows just how fickle some of you are.
I am really disgusted with some attitudes on here, and that some of you have made the same comments over and over again about different manufacturers...... One of these days they'll all retire like laurie and jackie white of Model slipway..then those that rely on kits for their modelling and who do the most moaning will really be in the Kack.......they'll have to take up aeromodelling or fish keeping.
IF YOU CAN DO BETTER, THEN GO AND SHOW US!! >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( Otherwise, leave them alone!!!
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Hello chaps, no I've stayed with the hull and moved on, if it was something really detremental that I couldn't repair with reasonable ease I may of thought, or reacted differently. I try to be quite a forgiving and understanding bloke really, and to be honest (or soft maybe {-)) there are one or two points that Neil makes that I do accept and sympathise with. Anyway posting more soon - promise {-) {-) {-)
Regards, me.
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. Anyway posting more soon - promise {-) {-) {-)
Regards, me.
Looking forward to it, tt1..it's a model I have always liked.........plenty of detail and character.
neil.
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A little more on the build, and as in life, I started at the bottom and tried to work my way up. Did a few simple bits on the hull first to warm up so as to speak and cuz I knew where they went O0. Fitted engine water outlets, opening grills and then the oval ruffle rings (had to look that one up!) Nowt mind blowing yet {-) As the ruffle holes are drilled through the keel it's important to ensure a watertight seal around them to avoid the obvious. Marked out their positions drilled small pilot holes through the keel and backfilled same from the inside with a good dollop of body filler followed by a coating epoxy resin. Located the ruffle rings on the outside (doh) then opened out the holes to suit.
When working with the hull upside down I found the following works and moulds itself to shape a treat - £1 from the pound shop, the better half wouldn't let me use one off the bed.
(http://s8.postimage.org/3rk50hzs1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3rk50hzs1/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/r9a82bsdn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r9a82bsdn/)
Followed on with the engine exhaust plates located one each side of the hull, as the hull is well curved down its side and the plates are flat, a fair old gap at the top and bottom edges would need filling but the exhaust plates looked to protrude a little too much for me so set about 'em with the angle grinder! formed a vee groove down the back face and with gentle persuasion from the lump hammer managed to put a curve in the plates to suit - managed the first ok but sure I heard a distinct and unwelcome sound from the second :(( maybe a smaller hammer? still- glued that one in place a bit sharpish while it was still in one piece, came out well in the end though. Back filled both with body filler and again a coat of epoxy to waterproof.
(http://s15.postimage.org/mp37eqrmf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mp37eqrmf/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/6q1yo29l3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6q1yo29l3/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/t1dargodn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t1dargodn/)
The ruder bottom skeg was next on the agenda, it was then that the twist at the back of the keel became quite noticeable as did the the varying thickness of the stern post (?) (the upright bit at the back) A bit of juggling was order of the day as was removing and fitting new location pins to gain a central and reasonable alignment for the rudder shaft.
(http://s17.postimage.org/eri0s45m3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eri0s45m3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/xqylez8cn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xqylez8cn/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/d3ngr7h4b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d3ngr7h4b/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/q4esatr2l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q4esatr2l/)
Amazing what you can achieve with a bucket of filler and some primer %)
(http://s17.postimage.org/cpvbj3bsb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cpvbj3bsb/)
A bit more later, goodnight and regards, Tony.
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I swear by it Tony......without it, some of my models would be holier than a collander, lol
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Neil,
I was not slagging off the supplier.
As you say they are cottage industries not multinationals churning out hulls by the thousand.
If I were the supplier I think I would appreciate feedback from customers be it good or bad.
A heads up to the supplier could identify a problem in material quality that had changed or
perhaps a change in manufacturing procedure.
If I was supplying the goods I would like to know of any problems rather than word getting around
that the product was substandard.
I myself have nothing but praise for the kit suppliers in our hobby and I have dealt with hull blemishes
with the required rubbing down and filling. No-one expects a 100% perfect product but a word to the
maker could be of help to him.
Ned
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I can see both points of view here, on the one hand it was very easy to fix so why make a fuss. On the other side Ned you are saying inform the supplier that the product supplied was faulty, & some suppliers would be happy that they had been informed, & in most cases would want to put it right .Being in business for years we do get faulty parts from time to time, my policy has always to replace or refund no questions asked. It is not fair to "xxxxx" a business without first giving them the chance to correct the problem. Mick B.
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Good point Ned and Mick, will give Dave a courtesy call purely to advise. The intention of my log is purely to give something back to the forum and perhaps, hopefully, help someone along the way. It'll be honest and hope to portray it like it is/was without intended criticism of anyone, besides, who am I to criticise - wait till you see some of the cock ups I've made!! O0 {-) {-) {-)
As is said "he who is without sin may cast the first stone" :-))
Regards to all, me.
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Unfortunately there are a few people on here who have nothing better to do other than snipe at peoples comments, most of us have to work for a living and save to buy these kits which to some of us cost a lot of money,some of us dont have the time to scratch build so kits are a god send, I for one would of sent the hull back and asked for a replacement, I know for a fact that hulls dont usually come in that condition so there must of been a problem in the moulding process which I should imagine the supplier would be more than happy to be made aware of, if ceratin people want to patch up with filler then by all means do so but dont dig at others for not wanting to.
Russ
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Hi Russ, some of us are black & white when it comes to issues like this & then again some are all the colours of the rainbow. Does that make one right & the other wrong ?, not necessarily so. I am sure that Neil is well intentioned when he says don't sweat the small stuff. He would repair it in a matter of minutes which is what tt1 also did. Sometimes we snipe at each other & at the end of the day you will find for no really good reason. There are two points of view here, as I said in my first post I can see valid points in both.This can be a very argumentative issue. I think that the owner of the hull made the right decision with the rider that I would personally let the manufacturer know in case something needed to be corrected for future kits. In this particular case both points of view have been dealt with & any hard words between the posters will not change the outcome, so we should relax & move on. Mick B.
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Will you lot pack it in and let Tony get on with this build. If you want to argue the toss start another topic on what is or is not acceptable.
Tony wasn't sure whether to put his build on here but was talked into it. Can we let him get on with it whilst he still wants to.
This is probably why there are not so many builds on here as there used to be at the start of the forum.
Being given tips on your build is good, arguing over whether you are a pratt is not good. >>:-(
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I'm enjoying the build so far Tony
watching with interest and hoping to learn :}
Dave
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I'm sure my missus sometimes think I am Dicky - (a p--- that is!) {-) {-) {-) Hi Dave hope it becomes a bit more interesting for everyone but can't promise! {-)
Supplier informed for some of the good reasons put forward by you guys, MOST apologetic and exchange would never have been in question. Apparently at the time of manufacture the normal 'moulder' was seriously ill and a temporary alternative was used. End of story, more to come soon and will continue in a light hearted manner, but boy have I dropped some goolies!
ta ta, Tony.
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Do we really want to see your goolies Tony ? {:-{
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but boy have I dropped some goolies!
[/quote]Well Tony as they say if you havent ever made a mistake, you have never made anything.
john
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Hello folks before I add a little more, have recently been following builds from Ggeorge, Wilhelm, Gribeauval and other brilliant model makers, I wished now to have titled this "build for beginners only" Ah well to proceed.
Next up was the propshafts and motor alignment, this is my first twin screw build using 'A' frames - and in tunnels to boot. To try and achieve the usual requirement of ensuring all was in line, free running, parallel, at the right angle and props central and equidistant in the tunnel, I thought it best to assemble and fit as an all in one unit and glue in place when happy. The hole dimensions for propshaft tubes were given in the instructions, thereafter it was a case of what looked right. Somehow I've lost some pics of this, but suffice to say one of the holes ended up no better than the one a mouse chewed in my fishing creel. The motor and propshaft were temporarily lined up using sections of square brass tube (cut slightly over length of the huco couplings) that gave a nice snug fit. Cleaned up the A frames fitted to shafts along with a couple of discs to simulate the props.
I used the motor mounts and motors from MMM, the mounts gripped adequately but the bases underneath were concaved and allowed distortion when being screwed down so an alternative Heath Robinson affair was concocted, to achieve the height and correct angle. The motor and mounts were seated on blocks of wood with a dollop of CT1, a mastic / adhesive used in construction. Gives time for positioning before curing to a sound but not brittle joint - can be applied underwater and sticks like the proverbial!
Made a simple wedge gauge for disc height in the tunnel which maintained the correct propshaft angle. The A frames were a nightmare for me, one of the legs had a crack in it and subsequently broke, but moreso I spent ages filing, packing, adding and removing bits from the location lugs to get good location in the exact position without gaps to fill - got there in the end. Used blue tack around the outer holes to hold position and prevent the epoxy pouring out when gluing in the tubes.
Oh yes, drilling the holes for the A frame fixing screws made the air a little blue at times, could have done with a mini right angled drill which I don't have, and there was no way could I get my clumpy fingers inside the keel void to apply locknuts, a dab of epoxy sufficed. When all was positioned and fixed, prop tube supports were made added for a belt and braces affair.
I think I may of rabbeted on a bit so here 's some pics.
(http://s15.postimage.org/r43kltkt3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r43kltkt3/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/syon4rc77/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/syon4rc77/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/hsgjykxwh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hsgjykxwh/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/q7p7uf5uv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q7p7uf5uv/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/e7ygkkxhf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e7ygkkxhf/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/gp2ga0txz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gp2ga0txz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/57l6ftg2p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/57l6ftg2p/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/8i8kpevn9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8i8kpevn9/)
More very soon, Tony.
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looking O/K Tony.
I drilled a small hole in the A frames on mine so I could pack the bearings with grease.
using the ever useful small sryinge.
john
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That's a good idea John..like that.
neil.
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Hi Tony, you are moving along pretty fast with your build & it is looking good. I have to say you handled the hull issue very well, good for you. I have been at a standstill since I got back from holidays in Maui, am finding it very hard to get back in gear, I am building the Billings Smit Nederland & have not touched it in a month. I wondered if you had seen the thread by "oldiron" (John) on drive couplings, if not I think you would be wise to read it. It is about which driveshaft couplings to use, I think it will surprise you. The Dumas dogbone variety were the best & the Huco's were the worst, Don't let me influence you though, read the thread for yourself. It certainly changed my mind & several others too. Let me know what you think, I would be interested in your opinion. I am working on making a C/V joint but it is not an easy thing to make, I have two failures so far that will not do the job. I am off to the tool store now to buy some metric taps & dies to continue with my messing about to see what I can come up with. I also have to get small ball bearings, the ones I had were too big, (available in lots of 25 @ the local bearing shop) it would have made the joint a bit too big to say the least & ugly looking too. Mick B.
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Thanks John good tip as Neil said - like it :-))
Hello Mick, don't be deceived by the build progress, I did get a head start before starting to post, didn't want what interest there may be to go off the boil by waiting too long for updates. Yes I did read John's (Oldiron) info on couplings - I read all of his tutorials, great help and wealth of knowledge. I do like the look of the Dumas type couplings he pointed out, not sure if 4mm inserts are available - will check it out, meanwhile the huco's will do for setting up at least, have used them on my other two boats with no trouble as yet however if there's better to be had then so be it. By the way I think SHG do similar style ones as the Dumas.
More pics of the build that I feel sure don't need any explanation except the supports for the fore and aft decks. According to the instructions and a review from Model Boats Mag by Rob Clark, they should follow the usual procedure of sitting on bearers inside the hull and finishing flush with the top edge of the sides, however both mention the decks require to be cut extremely carefully and "sprung" into place - Rob advises not as easy as it sounds.
I didn't see the point in struggling so I cut the sides 2mm lower to fit the decks on top, there is a rubbing strake to be run around the outside of the hull and rounded off level with the decks, so it's only a matter of filling any gaps on the top rather than the side. The supports were therefore fitted level with the hull edges - easy peasy as they say. I'll shut up now - here's some pics.
(http://s17.postimage.org/3ujeo3hzv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3ujeo3hzv/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6ngr2hqrh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6ngr2hqrh/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6kmb21tjl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6kmb21tjl/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/xexfkij8b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xexfkij8b/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/tnwl6i5xj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tnwl6i5xj/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/p5l3mq8jh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p5l3mq8jh/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ikcz0pi2l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ikcz0pi2l/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/cn2xxwt0r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cn2xxwt0r/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/490thsix3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/490thsix3/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/kwxdhek07/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kwxdhek07/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/e0q61l6mp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e0q61l6mp/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/qj6ri63m9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qj6ri63m9/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/z5ab04fzl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z5ab04fzl/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/sgt7rp6ud/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sgt7rp6ud/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/8fv2ykio9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8fv2ykio9/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/f0rhu9wbf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f0rhu9wbf/)
Will post again soon, regards, Tony.
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A tip, if I may...
Make sure you get the two endbox bulkheads absolutely parallel, otherwise the cabin can jam when taking it off.
I.e. like | |, rather than / \.
Guess how I found this out... :embarrassed:
Lance
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I love the idea of strapping the boat to the build cradle.
very handy for initial building
neil.
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Looking good Tony, keep us posted. Dave. :-)) :-))
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Thanks guys, :-)) Hi lance, recently done that bit and your dead right. If you notice in my first pics i.e. 7 & 8 the wooden strip with the centre line drawn along it was for 'squaring off' the front and back bulk heads and to ascertain where the side curves front and back should actually start and finish, as you will have noticed the moulding lines are not accurate and serve only as a guide. I try and use this method all the time (well thrice {-)) I mark off datum points down the sides of the hull to measure from. I'm sure it takes me longer to set up than build {-) {-)
An important thing I did find out by setting up like this is that my hull is nearly 7MM WIDER in the meddle on one side of centre line more than the other!! {:-{ :(( this caused a little concern but could do nothing about it except compromise where I could all down the line.
More coming soon,
Regards, Tony.
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Front and rear bulkheads and deck supports were next. There are location slots marked for joining the parts to the side decks, but I chose to ignore these and glued support braces from scrap to fix to, this gave me the flexibility for adjustment to tweak things till they were right. I tend to be a bit robust where joints and supports are concerned, and especially on the front deck, have added extra bracing beams and I also doubled up the thickness of the rear bulkhead for increased gluing area while adding some angle cross beams to ensure rigidity without flexing. I used plenty of masking tape when fitting the decks as they are to follow a compound curve I found in this instance it pulls the deck into place better than weights - still managed to pull it slightly out of line re the printed guide marks but no great shakes to overcome - I've soon to realise these printed lines ARE only a guide in some circumstances! {:-{ O0 Dressing the outside edge of the decks are certainly easier to trim to the outside of the hull than cutting to insert inside it, also the joins will be hidden by the top edge rubbing strake.
(http://s14.postimage.org/ixb4awvst/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ixb4awvst/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/ftmyrggz7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ftmyrggz7/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/5s1l4o657/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5s1l4o657/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/4u424q39t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4u424q39t/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ay6rfugot/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ay6rfugot/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/a7k09xijf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a7k09xijf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/elrkj0v7h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/elrkj0v7h/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/b7dzgmp6l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b7dzgmp6l/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/4dtx2xcs7/18_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4dtx2xcs7/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/9c7qixy5h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9c7qixy5h/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/bdx707lln/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bdx707lln/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/q5at0h05t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q5at0h05t/)
More soon, Tony.
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Hi Tony
Post twenty - I like the wedge gauge idea - one for my newbie toolbox :-))
:} I'm not behind on reading the build - I just had a reread of the action so far.
Now I'm going to watch 'The Cruel Sea' and have an ale.
Dave
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Looking good tt, no cockups so far then.(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
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Cheers Rich - keep watching! {-)
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Next up was to set up the rudder & post and try to get my head round how to mount the servo to get maximum throw of the rudder, and yet keep the controlling pin within the confines of the top white metal housing, I had been advised on here that with a bit of juggling with the location /geometry this could be achieved, or use a servo morph from Action to limit the throw. The diagrams that were provided for this were not very clear as all three of them had been printed on top of each other! %% Anyway lets take it as it comes. First thing I did was to assemble the top and bottom pins to the rudder post, which is square brass tube. I added a little plastic bearing to the base and as the top pin is threaded rod, I ran a little solder around the thread where the top bearing tube is located to minimise wear.
The first trial fit of the assembly into the skeg and top housing started to throw up problems, I'm not sure if I've cocked up somewhere or located something incorrectly, although I can't see where, but the gap between the rudder post and the stern post (?) - (the back of the hull) didn't look wide enough. There are two metal plates to be screwed into the stern post between the rudder post and the hull, one located above and one below the centre rudder post bracket - only they didn't fit, they were too thick. I had not altered the skeg or top housing location holes in any way but the rudder post fouled and would neither fit, or be able to move had I fitted the plates provided, not sure what they are for anyway but as they've to be there I substituted them for a little thinner plastic strip and and used pin heads for effect (couldn't see the point of the screws and nuts) - I still had a foul condition! {:-{ :((
Decided the only way out was to ease and reline the hole in the skeg and the top housing, the housing was a pain, I made a new bush to slide over the original, tilted the rudder post out very slightly, (can see it slightly out in the pic- shame but still) and soldered a steel washer at an angle to suit which would locate the new bush and cover the bodged up hole in the housing
I barely achieved enough clearance even then but it's ok, cor what a performance, should have just left the plates off {-) {-)
Hope you can understand my drivel, but if not maybe the pics will help.
(http://s14.postimage.org/6cug04vfh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6cug04vfh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/impv9w4yb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/impv9w4yb/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/pf5x6kzgv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pf5x6kzgv/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/jxptd00m5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jxptd00m5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/x295uwwud/5_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x295uwwud/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/a3cgc00ud/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a3cgc00ud/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/e0zq1ennp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e0zq1ennp/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/jlwvk02zb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jlwvk02zb/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/d6hrt456t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d6hrt456t/)
Will update again soon, regards, Tony.
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Oops! - just been pointed out in the last pic the rudder's upside down O0 :embarrassed: now wonder I have problems {-)
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I saw that Tony but refrained from commenting as I thought that as the rudder hangs below the keel you had turned it
upside down so save it from any damage during the build.
Having said that It's looking fine so keep the pics coming.
Ned
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well....she is self righting after all tony, {-) {-) {-)
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Hey Ned, that would of been a good get out eh? wished I'd thought of that! Anyway speak up mate - I take most things in good heart so long as it's not meant to be genuinely offensive. I'm good for a laugh - it is a hobby after all. Mind you, the missus can't figure out that if I really do enjoy modelling so much, why I sometimes cus {-) {-)
Hi Neil, I wished some of these flippin white metal parts were {-) I'm beginning to hate 'em! O0
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Glad I'm not the only one that is told his rudders are upside down. There is a member of this forum who will remain nameless who tells me I have done this on every build I do.
Sing The White Cliffs of Dover if you need a clue to the member.
Nice job Tony. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/drinking25.gif)
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Good ol' Bluebird! We still think your grey hull was blue! {-) {-)
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hi ya Dicky and Tony :D
hey I am an innocent by-stander here - there is nowt wrong with an upside doon rudder man - just means the boats upside doon - think on that %) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
but its still a canny build :-))
aye
john
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Hi Tony, I see you are not opting for the 2 piece sliding rudder post.
I agree the white metal fittings are a pain, but as they say no pain no gain {-)
john
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Hello John, your idea is still a possibility, I still have your sketch and nothings glued in yet. At the time however I was having enough problems getting the rudder post to work without fouling using the thickness of one box section let alone two. I'll think on about it later especially if I can come up with an easy way to remove the centre mounting bracket.
Carrying on with the build, the side coaming supports were glued to the coamings which were then fitted in place and the side decks added. For future reference, I'll just add, the parts were fitted as numbered and the coamings were cut to the guide lines as there was no reference made to these in the instructions.
Time now me thinks to see how the superstructure fits over the coamings and between the front and rear bulkheads, (thanks for the heads up anyway Furball!) It's quite a snug fit and has to be lifted on and off vertically and square to the bulkheads. After the usual marking and trimming a nice fit was achieved. There are strengthening / kicking strips fitted around the periphery at the base of the superstructure, these need to look the part and so will be added much later after any movement or distortion that may occur.
Now a part that I was a bit anxious about, fitting the servo and associated operating bits. The actuating pin from the servo arm is to operate within the confines of the top white metal housing which can restrict its sideways movement and thus affect the amount of rudder throw. Also at this point I was aware that, however unlikely it may be, the servo failed there was no way of getting to it once the deck was on, other than cutting a hole in the deck. If this situation ever did arise, I did not want the servo fitted so far to the back of the hull and be trapped under the top housing, this just added to the problem of rudder throw - I wanted to achieve full rudder and servo throw mechanically by judicial positioning of the parts rather than using a servo morph, the servo therefore needed to be as far back as possible to stand any chance - time for a few beers and sleep on it!
After a slow morning start, I decided to make the servo arm and pin operate underneath the housing rather than within it, and at least I could get full unrestricted servo throw and with a bit of juggling with the connecting bits, get as much rudder throw as the housing would allow, so the method shown in the following pics was concocted. John 44 did come up with an idea of a removable servo without major surgery, but at the time John I'd enough to contend with!
I was really pleased that I managed to get full rudder throw and the trials went a treat - so on went the rear deck and another trial fit of the superstructure. Was feeling quite pleased with meself now. %) {-) {-)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ctm751het/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ctm751het/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/3l6j89ahn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3l6j89ahn/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/gq899506r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gq899506r/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/kye0rg28p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kye0rg28p/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6yjd8ptfh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6yjd8ptfh/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/q81kpvntx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q81kpvntx/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/e63w6xeud/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e63w6xeud/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/jtcnni6oh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jtcnni6oh/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/f2w2r758d/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f2w2r758d/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ngp71y4bp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ngp71y4bp/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ttc5h57bl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ttc5h57bl/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/nbgfirnp3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nbgfirnp3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/8gru4le47/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8gru4le47/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/z9utbj0pd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z9utbj0pd/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/prv2bhf0x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/prv2bhf0x/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/km2ajets7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/km2ajets7/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/3p0coifyz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3p0coifyz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/aygeqq79t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aygeqq79t/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/z63pg3exl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z63pg3exl/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/6b2jjljz9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6b2jjljz9/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/qmrprqziz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qmrprqziz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/5aepdksb5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5aepdksb5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/9kgyq282t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9kgyq282t/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/622o4qhk5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/622o4qhk5/)
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A bit more progress. The top rudder housing on the rear deck is designed to sit slightly high at one end which meant having to back up with filler, didn't think this would look so good so I filed the housing down flush to the shape of the deck and planished the top cover to suit with me trusty hammer - making sure beforehand of course that there would be room left in height to fit the rudder shaft locknuts under the top plate. Think it looked better so was happy with it - you've probably noticed I don't build to exacting standards! {-)
After a lot of studying of an MB mag review, reading instructions, looking at the plans and cd photos, I decide to tackle the superstructure cabin floor and internals next, because they were playing on my mind and beginning to shorten my fingernails from head scratching.
There seemed to be an awful lot going on in there with plenty of detail to be dealt with, and studied as to how the noticed board uprights, which also supports the helmsman's backrest, was to be fitted. They locate from roof to floor and was just one of the many parts that would be inaccessible to fit once the cabin was made up and therefore has to go in at the same time as the floor. Somehow I'd have to figure out how I could prepare, locate and paint all the innards, attach them to their associated bulkheads, and then bring them to the superstructure all together for final assembly to form the complete cabin.
With so much detail inside it seemed deserved and worthy to put in a bit of lighting which not only would it hopefully enhance the parts - it would enhance the rough finish of the fibreglass matting, I think just painting over would make it look even worse, so, something else to consider.
Plucked up courage, bit the bullet and decided to go my own way (not a lot of instruction available for a newbie at all). Started off assembling the floors, lower cabin sides, side steps,(gunwhales? - no idea)and rear bulkhead as an all in one unit as the following pics show.
Bit of advice by the way, when engrossed don't try and pick your nose with dusty hands! {-) {-)
(http://s8.postimage.org/6zlhwqsoh/0001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6zlhwqsoh/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/8sn2mitlz/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8sn2mitlz/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/l8jsg9mxz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l8jsg9mxz/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ttldw6dzx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ttldw6dzx/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/xd4z9j9gx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xd4z9j9gx/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/4094gpqhz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4094gpqhz/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/4895wbqsd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4895wbqsd/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/hwaf2g879/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hwaf2g879/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/gmrciwsxn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gmrciwsxn/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/56snf3zy7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/56snf3zy7/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/9l78pkt2f/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9l78pkt2f/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/y98ef6frx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y98ef6frx/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/xt4521u9d/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xt4521u9d/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/p789qzdrb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p789qzdrb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/twehy4w13/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/twehy4w13/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/m8lhh7etb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m8lhh7etb/)
A few bits of angle added to strengthen the joints and a trial fit - nice and snug, but it ain't sitting very level {:-{ cuz the coamings are curved idiot! doh! ah well we'll add some side packers, the floors have to be level after all!?
(http://s15.postimage.org/4a48gyfs7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4a48gyfs7/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/5docsx0fb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5docsx0fb/)
Hmmm, the back's a bit high - don't think I allowed that much above the guide line, nicely curved as well - not to worry at least there's more rather than less and besides it's not the first part that's been wrongly marked, trimmed off - sorted!!!
(http://s16.postimage.org/51z3ask1d/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/51z3ask1d/)
Will post again soon, if my rabbit's a bit boring just say - Posting just pics is easier than two fingered typing
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Very impressive Tony even if you dont know what you are doing {-)
And the rudder is the right way up, excellent. ok2
Speak to you later. :-))
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Very impressive Tony even if you dont know what you are doing {-)
And the rudder is the right way up, excellent
OOO Dickie
Ned
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Thanks rich', :P ;D {-) {-)
Hi Ned, see you tried to make the call to Gerry then {-) {-) {-) - like it.
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Hi Tony, looking at the top picture of your rudder post, it looks like you are just using a lock-nut to keep the rudder arm/linkage straight,
On personal experience doing it that way, In use or any knock on the rudder could loosen the arm assy.
You could do with soldering a small piece of square section above the top bush and filing the hole hole in the arm square to fit.
If not you will forever be tightening up the lock-nut.
I am only trying to save you the same problems that I had when I built mine,
If my comments offend you in any way please tell me to but out.
john
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I do like your way of holding the pieces square when 'glueing'. :-)) I'll definitely try this myself, as I've been holding my attempts against just one vertical piece, only to find my finger has attracted some glue and ruined the surface.
Cheers
Ken
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It's looking a real treat, Tony
and your standards look as good as anyon here...no worries.
neil.
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Thank you for your remarks and interest guys, much appreciated :-))
Hello John, butt out? - never! thanks for the tip and I'll definitely keep it in mind, that bit's on the back burner at the mo', but I know exactly what you mean and it's a spot on method - cheers :-))
Ta Ta all, me.
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Hello folks, have decided now to carry on with the cabin as there's so much to do inside, and will then progress with the superstructure to its fullest extent.
Floor side bearers were next to go into the superstructure, mainly to ascertain the correct height for the front bulkhead. I've an idea, but still not yet convinced as to how to bring the cabin together at the end after fitting all the finished internals, and yet still to be accessible and be supported from underneath. Hopefully with a few pics you may be able to follow what I mean.
So - bearers in using epoxy resin.
(http://s17.postimage.org/gcs20s5uz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gcs20s5uz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/irbpk0hpd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/irbpk0hpd/)
Now the front bulkhead, ply is supplied for this but I prefered to use styrene sheet - saves a lot of prepping.
(http://s17.postimage.org/ga86dy27f/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ga86dy27f/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/pj6q0lw25/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pj6q0lw25/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/n8kil1mnp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n8kil1mnp/)
I've a few concerns now {:-{ In the review it's explained that a few items wouldn't fit on the bulkhead as per plan without a bit of surgery, compromise and juggling - and now I see there certainly doesn't look like there's much room on the bulkhead to play with.
I'll crack on and clean up the fibreglass. I sometimes find that filling ,filing and sanding can be either theraputic or boring - I'd had enough at the end of two days on this one O0, the considerable variation in fibreglass thickness didn't help, especially around the window and door openings, also keeping in mind that when lit up, any bad joints will really show up, ain't gonna be able to get inside to use filler or suchlike.
(http://s17.postimage.org/74vqd92uj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/74vqd92uj/)
Oops! thought I'd roughed the surface up enough :((%)
(http://s17.postimage.org/8qk6wjru3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8qk6wjru3/)
Right I'll try the CT1
(http://s7.postimage.org/qny2l8yrb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qny2l8yrb/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/41087t511/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/41087t511/)
Rough cut out the openings to save unneccessary filling and sanding.
(http://s17.postimage.org/uyxd1608b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uyxd1608b/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/4cm9ybaut/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4cm9ybaut/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ud9rr6jzp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ud9rr6jzp/)
Much better :-)) Now how we lookin'?
Not Happy, something isn't right, there's just nowhere near enough room on that bulkhead and there's no way could anyone sit in that cabin without banging his/her (!?) head. After a LONG time studying and looking at the plans, re-reading the review, and re-reading the instructions untill I was bored ****less, I was getting nowhere - then my good friend turned up, (he doesn't wear specs {-) {-))
This is how it was
(http://s16.postimage.org/3spmelb4x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3spmelb4x/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/b3xzt6xt7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b3xzt6xt7/)
Will have to stop and try to post now - imaging software keeps locking up - back later hopefully.
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Think pics are ok now so try again, and this is what my eagle eyed friend spotted
(http://s18.postimage.org/gj1pkkvjp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gj1pkkvjp/)
And this dummy only studied this one!
(http://s15.postimage.org/hbi41grdj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hbi41grdj/)
This is what I should have done
(http://s18.postimage.org/v7lsn5ar9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v7lsn5ar9/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/yatd5lf9p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yatd5lf9p/)
In my defence I tried to argue that I cut the coamings as marked as there were no dimensional indication, and with such a high coaming I didn't think it logical to have it only 3mm in height at the back -------------- ok, ok, as expressed by my ex mate, {-) next time I'll try to "RTFD" properly. {:-{ {:-{
Oh dear, here we go again!
(http://s16.postimage.org/6zwm4uxep/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6zwm4uxep/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/nhwu6iw03/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nhwu6iw03/)
Now to cut off the side risers I'd added which I thought was a smart move (huhh!) and then replace onto the rear bulkhead what I'd previously and confidently cut off! b****r - wasn't telling fibs though when I said there are a number of parts wrongly marked
(http://s17.postimage.org/p6abkujzf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p6abkujzf/) spose it keeps yer on yer toes %)
(http://s17.postimage.org/68zalc5nv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/68zalc5nv/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/5cy64lu2r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5cy64lu2r/)
not too fussed about the bearers (yet!)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ujr6ssx4l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ujr6ssx4l/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/ipwmibzxr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ipwmibzxr/)
Nearly back to rights, more to follow soon, ta ta.
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Nice one Tony, making you think then ? :-))
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Hello Rich', I really am enjoying this build, honestly! I found it very difficult at first to accept that in some cases the bits, plans, dimensions etc etc. can and do contradict each other. I really am having to use so much more forward vision, the plans really are only schematic for visualisation, but they are in fairness clearly marked not to be scaled, that so, I thought there would be much more dimensional info in the instructions than there is, but for me anyway its being a great learning curve and am loving it - I think it's a lovely looking boat and hope to get it looking the part- we'll see, cheers buddy, Tony.
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bits, plans, dimensions etc etc. can and do contradict each other.
Hi Tony
I'm still enjoying the build. It might be an idea when you finish everything and the build is over
(next week then? {-)) to put up a post on what to really look out for - might be of great use to others
building it later .......er generally thick types like me :embarrassed: {-)
Dave
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Hello Dave, nice to be aware of your interest, but one thing you AINT is a thicko - far from it O0
Re possible pitfalls and pointing out the cock ups you may have made is one thing, but others may see things differently / more clearly, so I think it only fair to explain what I'VE done as opposed to what should be done. (It's always easy to blame the guy who's on holiday for everything! - {-)) What I may of struggled with could well be obvious to others, especially to builders who've encountered far worse. I'm not good enough to teach grannie to suck eggs, but I'm more than happy and willing to discuss / help anyone with this model - as to what I know from my experiences, doesn't mean museum standards can be achieved though - bit of a b****r for artistic licence me {-) {-) {-)
Cheers Dave, me.
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Hi Tony nice work, at the rate you are going you will need another project soon.
Here are some photos for you, they may help.
(http://s14.postimage.org/ckru6rpgd/DSCF0174_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ckru6rpgd/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/a4q0sx7dp/DSCF0175_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a4q0sx7dp/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/v2w6r078d/DSCF0176_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v2w6r078d/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/8s8br19y5/DSCF0177_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8s8br19y5/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/wkhn2kbz1/DSCF0178_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wkhn2kbz1/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ifbu0r2xp/DSCF0179_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ifbu0r2xp/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/md3p3wf4t/DSCF0180_Custom.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/md3p3wf4t/)
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Cracking model John :-)) I do like the figures, where did you get them from? the one at the controls would never of sat down in my original cabin {-) {-) noticed you keep to the 'traditional'(?) colours - I tend to go off beat when painting some of the items / assemblies and use colours I either all ready have or ones I think look "nice!" - they won't be going in a museum so I like a bit of variety but not so much as to make them look silly. Did they have metallics in those days???? {-) {-) {-)
The grey colour recommended for the edges is Rover tempest grey, which is really a very dark grey - almost black, yet in the photos and other pics I've seen they look quite a light grey, so that's what I'll use - what colour did you use?
Kind regards, Tony. P.S. like how you did the dials as well O0
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Now I think we're on the right track again I'll continue in arranging the cabin floors and bulkhead. To interlock the floor to bulkhead I've added some locating strips around the edge of the bulkhead to make a nice snug fit but allowing easy removal of the floor.
(http://s13.postimage.org/654xan1xv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/654xan1xv/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ju623hl1h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ju623hl1h/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/furunthnr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/furunthnr/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/4ja183rtp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4ja183rtp/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/xzpnaiy71/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xzpnaiy71/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/j7lceyrjd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7lceyrjd/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/47pd3q0tt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/47pd3q0tt/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/lnrsu5gnx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lnrsu5gnx/)
Time now to tidy up the window, door, navigation light box openings, and add the light boxes.
(http://s15.postimage.org/4hei43lwn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4hei43lwn/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/pjmansr7f/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pjmansr7f/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ohzjlc87x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ohzjlc87x/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/cqqdiifmv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cqqdiifmv/)
Now to give a quick blast of primer to the inside of the superstructure to see if my raw finger tips were worth it {-)
(http://s13.postimage.org/yaqk9tgur/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yaqk9tgur/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/3lc4zyk4n/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3lc4zyk4n/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/9pw7g4h4h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9pw7g4h4h/)
Definately much better - I'm a happy bunny again now!! bye bye - post more later
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Hi Tony, at the time of the build they were available from Speedline Models.
I used Rover Tempest Gray.
But I know quite a few modelers who have used grey primer and then lacquered.
Builders license me thinks.
john
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Just a note, the dashboard, the top of it, the entire roof and the insides of all the windows forward of the sliding doors are should be painted matt black, as this helped the night vision of the crew.
Sorry if this inconveniences anyone.
Andrew
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Thanks for contributing Andrew, I've left it primer grey with a couple of coats of satin varnish, not a currently a stickler for total accuracy so I'll not bother changing it now - but its nice to know what's right. Daytime calls only for this boat then {-) {-) {-)
Regards, Tony.
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Tony....the motors you are using, sorry if I missed something but what sort of revs do they do on 12volts, and did you have them recommended....just wondering whether they would do for my boats or stay with Buhlers.
neil.
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Hello Neil, they are pictured in post No.20 and are T4 Thrustmasters from Brian at Mobile Marine Models, Dave (Metcalf Mouldings) recommended them and Brian confirmed they would be fine for this model. I have heard on a number of occasions that MMM motors are very good. I can only go by recommendation Neil as I am confounded by the variety of motors - wouldn't have a clue otherwise.
Cheers, Tony.
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cheers Tony..........will contact MMM....
after my last escapade buying two motors for the Clyde which overheated and burned themselves out, within a short while of sailing (electronics and electrics not my strong point.why I don't fit them to my models) I need all the helpI can get, lol
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Tony,
These might be a help (or a hindrance... {-)).
Detail pictures of R.N.L.B Mary Gabriel (37-29)
https://picasaweb.google.com/110973410931943058578/MaryGabriel?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCN_hrs_3pdaziQE&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/110973410931943058578/MaryGabriel?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCN_hrs_3pdaziQE&feat=directlink)
Some pictures of my build of the Metcalf kit
https://picasaweb.google.com/110973410931943058578/MaryGabrielModel?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCO-ypcbS-ovJNg&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/110973410931943058578/MaryGabrielModel?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCO-ypcbS-ovJNg&feat=directlink)
(Don't copy the rudder linkage...it didn't work at all! :embarrassed:)
Lance
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Thanks very much Lance, appreciate it, they're really good. The rudder idea may not have worked as was, but I think was a great idea - bit of ingenuity - like it.
Thanks for posting and kind regards, me. :-))
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There was far too much slop in those Lego gears.
Lance
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Making up the parts for the bulkhead seemed like a good idea, having all ready had concerns about the size and fit.
(http://s17.postimage.org/6xlsax1wr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6xlsax1wr/)
There are also 4 priming pumps that are supposed to fit on the r/h side, but as advised in the review, they didn't - the handles that were too wide caused most of the problem. Trying to trim them I broke 'em, as usual!! - made more a little narrower and also trimmed down the sides of the pumps, JUST about got them fitted in the right place.
(http://s11.postimage.org/u15pq29z3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/u15pq29z3/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/arnysbm6z/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/arnysbm6z/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/yg3x6tujv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yg3x6tujv/)
To get all to fit on the bulkhead, nearly every part had to be reduced in size untill a reasonable compromise on total fit was achieved.
(http://s18.postimage.org/4q99y9fqt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4q99y9fqt/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/cxxip1n8n/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cxxip1n8n/)
Did the parts for the rear bulkhead next.
(http://s18.postimage.org/75astjrp1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/75astjrp1/)
The only fittings to the side of the cabin were two fire extinguishers and brackets, I didn't break these :D- they were all ready broke! :(( {-) {-)
Getting to enjoy this mini scratch making - used artistic licence for the support bracket.
(http://s16.postimage.org/w4eas7bhd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w4eas7bhd/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/ycocf6a53/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ycocf6a53/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/l4kd8hn8r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l4kd8hn8r/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/5fodznrb3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5fodznrb3/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/mr4iwlsxv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mr4iwlsxv/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/cvholk89j/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cvholk89j/)
Seat next I think, no I didn't break this bit either {-) I did alter the pedestal slightly though.
(http://s18.postimage.org/5ch2wpl9x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5ch2wpl9x/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/lwhzakl37/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lwhzakl37/)
I wanted to paint something by now, strange colour I think but hey ho close enough to whats advised.
(http://s13.postimage.org/v8934n3yb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v8934n3yb/)
Next edition - back to the superstructure.
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and very nice to Tony...............some nice adaptations there.
the brackets for the fire extinguishers are for the earlier Anne Letitia Russell........you are probably nearer the mark with your bracket anyway, and who is to argue with the builder....
a friend of mine used to say at the car rallies he went to with his Austin Seven.....when peoople came telling him that the headlamp glass or this and that were wrong with his car.....he's always reply with a one liner................
"Who's f******* car is it anyway mate"........it would always shut the anorak and rivet counters up, and very quickly too, lol
neil.
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Internal cabin supports were next.
(http://s15.postimage.org/xy0i28o2f/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xy0i28o2f/)
As I wanted the floor to be removable for ease of fitting out and painting, plus not forgetting to be able to insert the notice board / backrest supports at the end, it was now time to remove the bottom bearers and use the newly fitted cabin supports to locate the floor assembly to. I used the fact that epoxy resin is quite brittle to advantage and the bottom bearers cracked away cleanly with no damage done.
(http://s14.postimage.org/3x6rzvmbx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3x6rzvmbx/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/s3l3lzzyv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s3l3lzzyv/)
I now re-skinned the inside bulwarks (?) the top sides of the floor, with 0.5 sheet to get a nicer join to the cabin sides - took a bit of faffing about but came out ok I think.
(http://s15.postimage.org/3om2cfftj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3om2cfftj/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/4mu5pzc99/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4mu5pzc99/)
I'll think about how to support the cabin floors from underneath later, but I feel now that I can achieve a removable yet completely accessible cabin. Hope to crack on now with with a little more confidence. Post again soon, Ta Ta.
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Hi Tony, you are really moving along with your build & doing a great job too. Your tread is very easy to follow & the photos tell the story very well, keep it up I am looking forward to your sea trials as I intend to build a lifeboat next too. Mick B.
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Hi Tony
Looking good - how detailed are you going inside the wheelhouse?
Dave
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Thank you for your kind comments Mick - much appreciated :-))
Hello Dave, Shan't be adding any real detail to the inside (except lights) other than what's supplied. Would like to have put some decals or something on the dials but nothing suitable at hand, hopefully this is the kind of detail I will consider a little more as I become more comfortable in making a reasonably good model - won't run before I can walk and the batteries in the 'ol brain cells only carry so much at a time! {-) {-) {-)
Regards to both, Tony. :-))
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Tony
All you need for the instruments is a photo
that you can scale down and print
either on decal paper or just print
out and stick on and varnish
Ned
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Thank you Ned, unfortunately don't have any photos as such at the mo, but thanks for the tip, these are things I will certainly consider for the future.
Cheers, Tony.
P.S. do you get to any of the shows or Wicksteed Ned?
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Well if the threads to date haven't bored you yet, the next few bits might! - I'd like to think things may become a little more interesting for those not particular about this model ..................... but don't hold your breath! {-) {-)
Although a change may be as good as a rest, have decided to carry on with the cabin and superstructure for now. Next up was the dashboard (?) the desk thingy at the cabin front with the dials and operating parts.
(http://s13.postimage.org/k7n826n6b/CIMG3977_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k7n826n6b/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/jylihw1yz/CIMG3978_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jylihw1yz/)
Added strenghtheners / supports under the boxes
(http://s17.postimage.org/wkvxeq4fv/CIMG3990_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wkvxeq4fv/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/sefod4u7v/CIMG4053_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sefod4u7v/) A part that was easier to remake than repair I think.
(http://s18.postimage.org/crxlr8v7p/CIMG4055_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/crxlr8v7p/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/59kfih80t/CIMG4057_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/59kfih80t/)
Handles were a bit close and wasn't going to risk bending them, so a couple of pop rivet heads did the trick.
(http://s18.postimage.org/p6oz5bc3p/CIMG4063_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p6oz5bc3p/)
Me and white metal don't get on {:-{ think I'm just too clumsy! O0 had to make a few more of these.
(http://s16.postimage.org/b549bnapd/CIMG4069_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b549bnapd/)
Looks a bit on the large side - but think they'll do.
(http://s12.postimage.org/a9w13tzex/CIMG4072_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a9w13tzex/)
The binnacle part looked a bit sorry for itself, there are supposed to be 3 mounting holes for attatchment to the base, but one of mine went awol so made a plasticard base that worked ok.
(http://s15.postimage.org/z1jafme3r/CIMG4112_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z1jafme3r/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/4hu62dt6t/CIMG4113_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4hu62dt6t/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/6ex8f05mx/CIMG4119_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6ex8f05mx/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/4ahk2uspp/CIMG4117_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4ahk2uspp/)
After doing the usual prepping to a few more cabin parts I wanted to play with me paint brushes, air brush and spray cans. Haven't strictly followed the colour specs as stated as I'm a bit of a one for using colours I like - :embarrassed: good job it's not a commission build! %% {-)
Have used all sorts of paint to date, hobby acrylics, Tamiya, Humbrol, Simonize, Halfords, Tetrosyl and Hycote - had to keep referring to the tips from this forum though, as to what was and was not compatible and which order to use them in. I have an old tin of cellulose grey metal primer that I've thinned down and used as a light primer 'dusting' on plastic - it bites in a treat without adverse effect and will take almost any paint on top. Enough rattle - couple of pics to shut me up.
(http://s11.postimage.org/52l1tmavz/CIMG4132_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/52l1tmavz/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/8eqc0pomz/CIMG4136_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8eqc0pomz/) Because of the variance of fibreglass thickness around the front window openings, I struggled to achieve a nice even joint where the dash meets the cabin front, but hopefully in the next pic you may see where I bent thin plastic tube around the front edge of the dashboard, it covers any gaps a treat and throws enough shadow line so as not to be able to see any joint faults through the window. I inserted some stiffish wire inside the tube to retain its shape during and after bending - was pleased it worked well. Right chuffed - good eh? Got that idea from "Model Slipway" by the way!! (wire inside tube that is.)
The non-slip on the cabin floor is black coloured wet and dry paper stuck down with double sided tape and sealed with matt varnish, I'm really pleased with the effect - don't know if it's to "scale" but the grit looks pretty good I think - Still a happy bunny!
(http://s15.postimage.org/nmel9sxd3/CIMG4139_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nmel9sxd3/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/g3ynssgkd/CIMG4139_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g3ynssgkd/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/wvjzbjgt9/CIMG4137_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wvjzbjgt9/)
.............. Ta ta, back soon :-))
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that's looking great Tony.........
I sometimes find Daves fittings a little brittle.............and yet people moan when manufacturers put too much lead into the mix to make them more pliable, and not shatter"able"......we can't have it all ways I suppose, unless we go over to polyurethane fittings for all, and then such things as mast tabernacles where you need a little strength would have to be white metal............as for stanchions...I don't think polyU stanchions would work at all.
neil.
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Hello Neil, nice to see that you are still following - feel a little honoured to be honest, you being a lifeboat extraordinaire and especially in light of the THREE you're building! O0 Hope that doesn't sound patronising or think that I'm extracting the urine, don't do that. Well ok, not now ...............but I do sometimes! (extract urine that is!) only when apt though.
Regarding white metal bits, I'm not calling them as such and certainly not criticising anyone for that matter, I understand and accept the logic of the material usage, at the very least I get a pattern to work to for remakes O0 - some are very good, some just not up to standard for use, some broken and a lot I break myself! DOESN'T STOP ME HATING 'EM THOUGH {-) Have broken that many of those pesky shackles and pins had to go cap in hand to Dave, received more with spares to boot, foc, bless him - so even he knows I hate 'em {-)
keep up your good work, Regards, me.
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I watch and look at every post you make Tony..................I am not by any means past learning from others........and don't pretend to be to be honest........in fact that is why I steer clear from modern boats as I know didley sqit about them........and to me it would be just a "kit" build following one part from another.......
not to say I don't like them, and would love to own a Tamar 1:12 scale........but to build one..........no thanks.
I'll keep watching and learning, and enjoy your build.
neil.
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Hi Tony, The part you made is far better than the kit bit. I may be wrong but I feel a part like that should not make it into a kit. Some people will not possess the skills to make a replacement & it may stop them from going on with the build. You are making a lovely job of the cabin interior too. Like Neil I try to read every tread each night & find I get lessons from every build good or bad. Mick B.
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Good afternoon Tony, I'm so glad to see that someone has put a build log regarding the Alice Upjohn on the net. I started mine at Christmas and its progressing slowly. Thank you for posting such a detailed log and plenty of photos, which should provide a good guide. I would say that Dave at Metcalf Mouldings is a top man as I also broke a couple of castings which he replaced FOC. I will continue to watch with interest and if permitted comment on some of my mishaps or fixes, which may benefit others.
I would also like to thank Lance for posting the pictures of the Mary Gabriel as there is very little on the net, and I have spent many a long hour trawling through various web browsers.
Best regards
Dave
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Hello Dave, hope your build goes well and you get as much enjoyment from it as I am having. Please don't let me mislead you, or anyone for that matter, but as stated at the beginning I got well ahead with the build before starting to post - I'm not such a fast builder and wasn't sure if it would be of much interest but Dicky D ticked me off for not pulling my finger out and getting on with it! {-)
Will be only too glad to help you in anyway I can so don't hesitate, please do keep in mind though I am only presenting my own experiences and what I have done, but it's a smashing voyage for me, really having to think, look ahead and learn to take nothing for granted - been loving it.
Kind regards, Tony. :-))
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Started the inside lights now, made up a couple of holders and decided to use the notice board support posts for the contacts. Changed the ceiling mount for the supports (it was a wooden block) to a plastic box affair and soldered in spring loaded contacts made up from the tat box. Think the wires are strong enough? :embarrassed: Made the notice board from placcy instead of ply and used the inside face of cardboard from a cereal box, which when painted, gave a nice grainy finish. Stuck on a few bits cut from a H&S mag for effect - still not sure if I'm struck on it now - but it's staying. As the metal backrest is also mounted on the supports I should have remembered to change the metal mounting brkts for plastic ones, I did think about it beforehand - but I forgot - remebered it when the bulbs blew though - ah well just another step back (keeps me fit?!)
In the fourth pic you can just see a support for the front dashboard located on the superstructure below the centre window opening, its a bit of scrap and the hole just happened to be there!
(http://s16.postimage.org/5h099mqrl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5h099mqrl/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/n4wawflrr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n4wawflrr/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/aytbgt2w3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aytbgt2w3/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/fsch3p43t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fsch3p43t/)
The mounting brkt for the radar dome on top of, and at the rear of the superstructure, looked off centre to me in one of the pics provided and a couple of parts seemed to confirm this, but another part didn't - (am I making sense? even I'm confused now! {-) {-)) ...............remember these?:
(http://s14.postimage.org/vaihoyigd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vaihoyigd/)
and here's the pic:
(http://s13.postimage.org/5ez7p4xk3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5ez7p4xk3/)
So.............
(http://s12.postimage.org/x6wpbz18p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x6wpbz18p/)
Yes it's meant to be central - Dave just likes to keep you on yer toes! O0
Made up the upper rear panel assy, added some stiffeners from scrap, and notched out for the mounting brkt in situ.
(http://s17.postimage.org/cio4p4u8b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cio4p4u8b/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6md5hcnpd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6md5hcnpd/)
As It's the most likely area to hold when taking the superstructure on and off, although they don't show, I used belt and braces for fitting the brkt.
.(http://s16.postimage.org/5fmosr9xd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5fmosr9xd/)
There's quite a gap between this upper panel and ceiling so added an inner piece to close it down a bit, which also helps to hide the extra suports and it'll be some where to tuck wires from the blue flashing lamp
(http://s8.postimage.org/yujyedlqp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yujyedlqp/)
The lower back panel was next, while manouvering I caught the rear side of the superstructure which caused a right good crack as it fell - great, over the b***y moon Jim! think I'm a bit too clumsy for this modelling caper.
So, anyway, as this panel may of been a tad flimsy I again added more more supports, stiffeners, fixings and by doing so increased the gluing area. Steady as a rock now, no flexing and extra support where the crack was, great, three birds with one stone. While it was doing a headstand, I drilled two locating holes in the upper assy for the rear structure support frame, this gives me a bit of leeway when marrying up the curve of the frame to the back panel, made the side rods over length to accomodate - worked well so quite pleased.
(http://s7.postimage.org/lhiu3idsn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lhiu3idsn/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/ml2yfgyfr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ml2yfgyfr/)
And just to prove I can do camera tricks as good as Dave ......................
(http://s10.postimage.org/5bwd1efdh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5bwd1efdh/)
Finally for now, the rear support frame - don't be fooled - my soldering ain't that good - just getting quite handy with a needle file {-) {-) still a happy bunny! Ta, ta for now.
(http://s17.postimage.org/fscnptuyz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fscnptuyz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/vzfqe9rep/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vzfqe9rep/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/dgf85ubxf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dgf85ubxf/)
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More pics to hopefully keep any interest and the flow of threads going.
Started to do a few bits and bobs for a change, First up was the radar dome - vac formings cut using a scribe, pic 1, cut out and made up bits for the assy (2), decided to fit working lights so changed the mounting to accommodate, pic 3, and (4) shows dome assy, windows cut out and taped up (don't often scratch them - but usually get glue everywhere when fitting them!) oh, and there's another lamp holder for a light under the dashboard.
(http://s11.postimage.org/4wu9zrsrj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4wu9zrsrj/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/79z13lb81/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/79z13lb81/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/mlowyapdf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mlowyapdf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/tqyr15lvh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tqyr15lvh/)
Making the superstructure roof hatch one of the hinge arms was broken, feeling a tad fed up I made the other one to match and then made a new pair with rivets for effect.
(http://s17.postimage.org/hkb3dowt7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hkb3dowt7/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/c4s9ihslj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/c4s9ihslj/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/la6mzrcpx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/la6mzrcpx/)
the capstan on the roof of the s/structure would,as Dave advised, double up nicely as the lifting off knob - glued a strengthening plate on the underside of s/st location and fitted a stud at an angle that suited the sweep of the roof, he was spot on!
(http://s12.postimage.org/urvmzx8rd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/urvmzx8rd/)
The next pic shows the door frames and glazing, glued and taped up, the runners made to suit the doors and fitted in situ as a complete unit. I used plastic channel for the runners - so much easier than cutting out and using the individual strips provided.
(http://s15.postimage.org/c9dn976dj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/c9dn976dj/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/opad2xzpj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/opad2xzpj/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/axdenj4l9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/axdenj4l9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/rmz3vg2z5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rmz3vg2z5/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/hgxcrj84z/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hgxcrj84z/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/5t3awzj03/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5t3awzj03/)
Wanted to have working navigation lights so made trunking to fit to the cabin sides to conceal the wiring, made two right handed ones by mistake - didn't fit so made a left hand one as well {:-{ It was game enough having to open out the box section for the wires for the first two without doing a third - all's well that ends well.
(http://s12.postimage.org/sg1f7k0bd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sg1f7k0bd/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/telljkoot/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/telljkoot/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/j0vvyh3fb/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j0vvyh3fb/)
Made the trunking for the mast lamps from brass tubing, 4 wires needed as one pair will go to a flashing gizmo bought from Action. Varnished/insulated armature wire helped me just make it, went in a treat, a bit tight but I'm not complaining.
(http://s10.postimage.org/txia5isk5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/txia5isk5/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/yl5xm3i7x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yl5xm3i7x/)
and finally for now, wanted to make the searchlight work, but brightly, used an aluminium pop rivet head as both the bulb holder and a heat sink, (you may of noticed I've used the same method as bases for the navigation lights), then as stupid as it may seem I wired a 6v g.o.w. bulb to a 12v battery thinking it would probably blow immediately - it lasted for four hours continuously, a little darkened - but still works, absolutely incredible. A question then please folks, is this normal? was I just lucky and dare I use this for a punchy searchlight? here it is:
(http://s16.postimage.org/5pzpsljip/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5pzpsljip/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/400us1er7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/400us1er7/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/wcvxmnw2t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wcvxmnw2t/) Bye bye.
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Wanted to do the radar mast next. Marked out the feet locations on the superstructure and assembled the mast - a nice assembly in its own right this and most enjoyable to do, added some minor refinements but nothing too exciting.
(http://s7.postimage.org/pzaxq7s6v/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pzaxq7s6v/)
Was really pleased that as yet (!) I haven't broken the white metal pointy bits - there's a first {-)
(http://s17.postimage.org/ji14n5hyz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ji14n5hyz/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/vthinb3ut/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vthinb3ut/)
Something's doesn't look right the platform should be level with the waterline with the supports leaning forward at 89 degrees {:-{
(http://s14.postimage.org/rjg6dkly5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rjg6dkly5/)
Which ever way round the angled support bit under the platform is fitted it still isn't right
(http://s16.postimage.org/6tzs01yy9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6tzs01yy9/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/p4xhkmkhn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p4xhkmkhn/) made a new piece to suit - that's better.
(http://s14.postimage.org/pe047o3kt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pe047o3kt/)
Marked out the position of the hand rails and hatch, I tried a bit of what may seem an unorthodox way of doing the rails in as much I marked out and drilled the location holes first, bent the rail to suit, and carefully marked the base positions on the rail. Holding the rail in the correct plane glued the bases on so that gravity would line them up vertical, I could then remove the completed assy for ease of painting, came out very well and was pleased it worked.
(http://s17.postimage.org/fupyutz5n/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fupyutz5n/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/savvg2797/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/savvg2797/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/gaaffbzuj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gaaffbzuj/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/80h3kpah1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/80h3kpah1/)
Cut out and positioned the engine room cover frame and drilled holes so that I can add pin heads for effect.
(http://s17.postimage.org/e0vhw25ob/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e0vhw25ob/)Marked out the positions for the capstan (lifting off knob!) and the black non-slip area. I made a template of this area and will use wet and dry grit paper as I did with the cabin floor.
(http://s7.postimage.org/ana0yj3hz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ana0yj3hz/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/nvn3lnqjh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nvn3lnqjh/)
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It looks about 5 degrees out Tony..baring in mind that these boats were built by hand at the boatyard,, and no two boats were ever the same......do you think 5 degrees will matter.........
I certainly wouldn't stand at a pond side and have any idea that it was out if you hadn't told me.....and if someone did come along with that word of wisdom, I know what I'd say to them and it wouldn't be printable on here, {-) {-) {-)
neil.
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Decided to add a few little bits of my own to the lower rear panel just to finish off the edges, used half round strip to give a nice top edge.
(http://s18.postimage.org/vg2p1215x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vg2p1215x/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/nrag32q1x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nrag32q1x/)
Marked out and drilled location holes in superstructure for the remaining parts, I always tend to add location pins to individual parts wherever possible, bit of a belt and braces thing but it's also a big help when glueing parts in position after paint.
(http://s18.postimage.org/63x8im5id/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/63x8im5id/)
Rather than use the ply sheet as supplied for strengthening the superstructure, I stiffened up the sides with strips of plastic and added u shaped channels for cross bracing, very sturdy and they make very handy handles O0 the first layer of placcy was glued to the fibreglass with contact adhesive, stuck really well without too much mess.
(http://s18.postimage.org/uzv9juhk5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uzv9juhk5/)
A quick blast of white primer now to see how she looks, the usual blemishes patched up with Humbrol filler and another blast.
(http://s16.postimage.org/5j8k52gk1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5j8k52gk1/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/oibfxl9af/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oibfxl9af/)
The kicking boards and hand rail support sockets for the front deck were next after marking out all locations. Thought I would make up the boards, bases and rail sockets all in go and fit as a complete assy - as follows.
(http://s15.postimage.org/4b2lj116v/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4b2lj116v/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/o45z3mgr5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o45z3mgr5/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/gv2s3pvmx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gv2s3pvmx/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/u43gtcrcn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/u43gtcrcn/)
Turned out not to be such a good idea after all - it didn't work! :(( a few bits cracked off while bending to shape but moreso because of the compound curve on the deck and the kicking boards being printed as parallel pieces, which I followed, they didn't fit properly. The lower edge needs to be shaped (concave?) and the top edge mirror imaged to it. Managed to crack off all the bits and started again, this time I fitted the boards first using solvent weld which allowed me to bend and glue a liitle at a time ensuring the boards followed the base curve but remained vertical. If the boards weren't upright then the hand rails would of looked on the squint - not visually nice. Once the solvent weld had hardened off I ran a thin bead of cyano down the base edges, if you're quick enough with a spray of activator a nice smooth welded looking joint without any gaps can be achieved - no filling needed.
(http://s14.postimage.org/dbmtdxx6l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dbmtdxx6l/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6mg9xxbul/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6mg9xxbul/)
I found it easier to cut out and fix the non-slip deck surface before any other bits went on (wet and dry again) stuck down with double sided tape and masked up.
(http://s13.postimage.org/ewndxs5df/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewndxs5df/)
To fit the front rope ring(?) flush with the front face, a fair chunk needs to be cut out of the stem post - not too sure if this is how it should be but I think it looks right. The top rubbing strip around the outer edge of the deck was glued in place and any gaps filled then rubbed down.
(http://s13.postimage.org/vkx9j8to3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vkx9j8to3/)
Hope someone's still finding interest in all my waffle {-) {-) {-) ta ta for now and regards, me.
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Hope someone's still finding interest in all my waffle
Hi Tony
It's not waffle mate. I learnt something from your last post.
Selfish of me, but I hope you make many more mistakes O0 {-) {-) {-)
Some guys do perfect builds that are lovely to just browse.
You (and Neil too) give me your experience to absorb - This is where
you will want to get bashful - please don't because this has been a
great thread for the inexperienced to follow.
When I can take the pebbles from your hand it will be time to leave the temple {-) {-) {-)
(erm - you have to be a certain age to get that)
Dave
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Good afternoon Tony,
Still following with keen interest. My superstructure is slightly out of shape and I'm very interested in your method of bracing internally with channel sections. Would it be possible for you to give some dimensions as to where these are positioned and their widths at the bracing points. I'm not keen on scaling off the plans.
Regards
Dave
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Hello Dave and Dave {-) Thanks Norseman I appreciate your comments, one of the first build logs I ever saw was Martin's - yes THE man :} referring to his "my builds" on the Mayhem home pages, I thought they were brilliant. He told it all like it was with added humour thrown in, the mutts nuts in my book and right up my street O0 O0 As this is only my third model I really have made some right cock ups through my learning curve - more than I've posted I suppose and as many caused through haste, but in all sincerity the object of this log is to share it in a way that may perhaps help anyone who wants to have a crack at this model and also hopefully give a little back to the forum. I think its coming together quite well now and I'm at the point where I really don't want to make any major mistakes, as a fellow Mayhemer recently posted "I shall be punching the air if it comes right"! O0
There are quite a number on the forum who are happy to share their pitfalls and disasters so that we can all learn, one that always comes to mind is a build of Tug Kenny's where at one point, despite concerted efforts of cock up correction, I'm sure he gave thought to making firewood {-) {-) {-) (can you tell I love these little animated faces). bye for now. :-))
P.S. yes I understand (Grasshopper?)
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Ooops, sorry Dave, (thebackways) I could measure what I did dimensionally for you, but don't think it will really help more than confuse to be honest. By the way you are quite right, DON'T scale anything off the drawings, treat them as a visual guidance only and be prepared to compromise what you see relative to actually positioning - this goes for most things and in fairness, there's a clear and vivid warning on the plan. As a simple example, have a look at the position of the chair arm and compare it plan v plan - most things are like this.
Re the superstructure supports it really is a case of putting them where they won't foul anything, i.e. not too far back to limit access for the front bulkhead, not too far forward so as to foul on the front deck, not too high as to cut across the portholes and not too low as to foul on the side coamings, sorry but that really is all you have to consider.
Having roughly measured an overall length for the side stiffeners and having decide 3 cross braces were enough, I simply marked a reasonable position one from each end then one in the middle. If in one particular area the superstructure needs pulling in or pushing out you can make use of the position and length of the cross braces to manipulate this. Mine wasn't bad so I didn't have to bother - but it's an option if needed.
If you do wish to stiffen up the sides as I did make sure you don't use a material so wide that may foul the coamings.
You could use wooden braces accurately cut to length, with the ends shaped to suit the curve of the superstructure and pin/screw into them from the outside. I couldn't be bothered to try so took the easiest way I could think of: marked where I wanted them, glued scrap blocks to the side stiffeners, cut the braces (which could be made of owt really) just under/overlength as required and glued them to the sides of the blocks, when happy glued another block to the other side to sandwich the brace between the two.
Oh!, if you follow this type of method, measure the depth of coaming and mark this dimension on the inside of the superstructure where the brace is to be located and fix slightly above it - not critical - but saves having to scrape some height off the coaming if your a tad low .................Guess how I know O0 {-) {-)
Hope this helped rather than confused, kind regards, Tony :-))
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With the kicking boards now in place, next up was to fit the white metal support brkts. The back face and base of these are 90 degrees to each other which makes them a poor fit because of the curve of the deck. Using filler around parts like these is a bit faffy so off came the base locating pins, and then filed the base at an angle to suit.
Had a similar problem with the hand rail sockets, thought the top edge of these would look much better if parallel with the top of the kicking boards, but because the boards are slightly angled and shaped to the profile of the deck, then the sockets would follow the same profile and the rail holes would be slightly on the squint, i.e. not vertical. If the sockets were located as supplied at the angle needed for the handrail upright to be vertical (as they should be) I think they would look awful. A case of take your pick then or - "suit yourself" - (where'd I heard that before?! {-)) I chose to drill out the holes to suit and a halfway compromise of putting a slight kink at the bottom of the vertical rails where needed, the holes are a little oval at the top now, but will just have resort to using a little filler. They look ok to me so I'm still a happy bunny.
To follow are a few pics of the work done on the handrails, which hopefully show all what I've been on about. To solder the rails I used an old but faithfull Weller 100-140w gun, chucks out so much heat very quickly it really is touch and go. O0
(http://s15.postimage.org/s85nl2ul3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s85nl2ul3/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/jfooxe9g7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jfooxe9g7/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/7kjd1x1kr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7kjd1x1kr/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/pcfpbqkar/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pcfpbqkar/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/n8csqvec7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n8csqvec7/)
With only a couple of joints left to do the gun tip burned through - have you EVER seen a temporary repair as this? rough or what %% {-)- but it worked!
(http://s17.postimage.org/lkst3kjfv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lkst3kjfv/)
I found this whole exercise overall a bit fiddly, and had to pre-empt at times, but It came out in the end as such that I'm happy with it.
(http://s15.postimage.org/b08b7dlcn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b08b7dlcn/)
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Hi TT, you can build railings for me anytime, but the gun repair was a bit ^*#%*&, enough said,L.O.L. Mick B.
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Thanks Mick - would have been late for work so I had to rush a little %) {-) {-)
Here's a couple of close ups that also show the mounting blocks for the fairleads, the top deck edge rubbing strake(?) and detail of the finish at the curved ends of the hull, the same method is used for the front and rear.
Nice to know your watching - regards, Tony. :-))
(http://s18.postimage.org/czbyl8s5h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/czbyl8s5h/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/gneoo0j8x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gneoo0j8x/)
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Nice to see you are getting quite good at this boat building Tony. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/MOST_P1.gif)
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Thank you Rich'.
Continued by giving the front deck a quick blast of primer for a look see, quite pleased - no more filling needed here at least.
(http://s18.postimage.org/4lvr0ijkl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4lvr0ijkl/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ssjpxhsvh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ssjpxhsvh/)
Added the side lifting plates and prepared the white metal lifting brackets, I have no idea what these do or how they're used, the plates were fitted as per the plan and I assumed the metal brackets were to fit tight against the hull side on top of the rubbing strake. To get a 'no gap' fit they needed a bit of rough (?) shaping pity such detailed craftsmanship can't be seen {-) {-) but they do fit a treat :-))
(http://s18.postimage.org/q5i7a4t5h/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q5i7a4t5h/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6vxnghwml/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6vxnghwml/)
In the following pic which shows templates for the nonslip areas on the side decks (wet & dry paper again), you can also see where the holes for the bilge pump and filler plates were cut out. The plates are to fit flush with the deck and are supported by plastic bits glued underneath below the holes. The side decks ARE (as advised in the review) printed and numbered the wrong way round, however I wanted to take advantage of the printed positions rather than dare try to scale off the drawing, so I simply switched left for right and vice-versa, by doing this the hinged side of the filler plates face the wrong way, simples! just cut the notches on the other side. I forgot :embarrassed: not too bothered about a rivet or two, so they're staying {-)
(http://s18.postimage.org/9pt1c4bdh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9pt1c4bdh/)
For the sake of adding a few pics, here's how I did the nonslip bits: place template on w&dry - the right way up and cut to match. Mask up face, turn over trim excess masking and apply double sided tape, turn over again trim off excess tape and remove backing. As long as the DT's don't set in they should adhere in-place ok.
(http://s17.postimage.org/ch7pozki3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ch7pozki3/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/l21wvf5pt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l21wvf5pt/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/9qz971yup/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9qz971yup/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/z7tcvb5nn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z7tcvb5nn/)
Fancied doing a few bits for the rear deck now and started with the tiller arm, it's supplied as sheet ply with a template, but I preferred to use plastic.
(http://s15.postimage.org/n83lzef07/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n83lzef07/)
I added extra thickness for the tiller arm in order to match the width of the tiller socket and the arm stowage supports, also added a couple of handles to the supports to represent some sort of locking latches.
(http://s13.postimage.org/ikfmy1f1f/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ikfmy1f1f/)
The drogue was a little fiddly to make up, it consists of 2 brass rings about 1x50 & 1x30mm dia and covered with material to form a cylindrical cone shape. I found the material supplied a bit small to work with so an old hanky sufficed. I soaked the whole thing in cyano and did a runner till the smoke and fumes cleared. %% after a quick shot of primer acceptable me thinks.
(http://s14.postimage.org/z4ds3nl9p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z4ds3nl9p/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/9s98nynit/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9s98nynit/)
Having continued my affliction with white metal I had to make up new handrails and rope eyes
(http://s14.postimage.org/3sfz3tffx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3sfz3tffx/)
Following a trial fit on a piece of mdf board, I made a template from this to help accurately locate the 3 equi-distant holes for the drogue supports.
(http://s14.postimage.org/zcb2b0rxp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zcb2b0rxp/)
Marked out the nonslip area on the deck and followed same procedure as before.
(http://s18.postimage.org/yl9lx4rrp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yl9lx4rrp/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/g04dt7rlt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g04dt7rlt/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/y5sd491mf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y5sd491mf/)
Just a few more bits for painting, bye for now :-))
(http://s8.postimage.org/wm2lt36b5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wm2lt36b5/)
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Hi Tony
I didn't know what a drogue was for so I looked it up
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drogue
So there it is for anyone else too
Dave
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Hi Dave, that's exactly what I had to do!! {-) {-) {-) - good thinking on your behalf to post the link though :-)) cheers, me.
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Greetings from Christchurch,NewZealand.
I am a new member to the club and have built mainly Yachts over the years.
At the moment I have a radio controlled meter long gaff sloop that I enjoy sailing in the local boat lake(now repaired after earthquakes ripped the bottom open and the water was lost.)
Why on this topic?? I also own the real full-size Ex RNLB "Alice Upjohn" which I am at the moment repainting and doing a minor re-fit.
I have seen the models of my boat produced by Metcalf Models and must point out that she was built in1977 and as such has the
fwd hatch set off-center to the port side and has a few other minor changes from the previous builds so if you're building to scale
would be nice to get right. Regards, Gerald
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Good afternoon Gerald,
Its good to know that the original Alice Upjohn is still around, however how on earth did it get to New Zealand.
Would you be able to post some pictures on to the forum for all us builders to work to, as there is very little details available on the web?
Best regards, Dave (thebackways) %%
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Why on this topic?? I also own the real full-size Ex RNLB "Alice Upjohn" which I am at the moment repainting and doing a minor re-fit.
You lucky man........I for one am very envious of owners of classic lifeboats.........roll on me winning the lottery.
neil.
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however how on earth did it get to New Zealand
As deck cargo...
The Royal New Zealand Coastguard Federation bought quite a lot of ex-RNLI boats for use as lifeboats. Several Rothers and Waveneys were shipped out.
Cheers
Lance
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Hi Gerald, thank you for the info, unfortunately I've passed the point of no return re the hatch now, yep! it's in the centre as drawn - I wouldn't know otherwise.
Now we're up and running again, have plenty more of my build to post soon. Good luck with your re-fit. Regards, Tony. :-))
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A few pics to "test the water" following Mayhem's mayhem <:(
Painted parts building up nicely.
(http://s14.postimage.org/h9d48wgm5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/h9d48wgm5/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6y4un2kvl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6y4un2kvl/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/a83hhzy9x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a83hhzy9x/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/v1swqdbrr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v1swqdbrr/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/hufj44x8b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hufj44x8b/)
Gave the anchor and support assy a coat of looking at next. A bit of juggling was needed to get the anchor to sit comfortably, look balanced and at the right angle to make the locking assy's look as though they would work. I also filed a flat angled face on top of the support bars that helped a lot, and yes - I did break the original white metal latches!
(http://s13.postimage.org/as9bt7cpf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/as9bt7cpf/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/kn7tlezox/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kn7tlezox/)
The plan shows two blocks of styrene for supporting each end of the anchor, I used a simple design of my own. All the parts were drilled and pinned for location and a template made for transferring the positions to the deck.
(http://s7.postimage.org/9oub1m0gn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9oub1m0gn/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/llhm5vl7l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/llhm5vl7l/)
Finally for now, it's always beneficial when making the build stand to ensure the end supports are clear of any parts that are later added to the hull, I pre-empted this.............................. but NOT this close! lucky me eh? better buy a lotto ticket. Ta ta for now, Tony. :-))
(http://s18.postimage.org/bhnzb74ud/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bhnzb74ud/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/sjbckc8wt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sjbckc8wt/)
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Good evening Tony,
It's good to see you and the mayhem site back :-))
Your build is looking really good and I'm looking forward to the next installment
Regards
Dave
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Hi Tony,
This is the first time I've looked at this thread - some great tips being passed around - I'll have to go back and read through it again properly though 'coz I was mainly viewing the photo's :embarrassed:
Looking good. O0 O0 O0 :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Dave & Ray, more soon. Ray I notice your post total looks original, did you have to re-register? only I'm sure I did more than 3 O0 {-) {-)
Regards, to both. :-))
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Hi, Gerald again--as Lance says --boats brought out here as deck cargo on P&O container ship(s).
Alice Upjohn was dumped off in Wellington Harbour and motored down to Greymouth in South Island (West Coast) saving a couple of
yachties who got into trouble and had to be towed into Nelson.
I have taken a pile of photo's of the boat inside and outside that I'll put up if you want.
I also have quite a lot of Mahogany 3"x3" that I have cut out of the forepeak that I thought could be cut into thin slabs and polished
(by you) to put name-plates on etc.Just an Idea if anyone is interested.
Regards, Gerald
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Hello Gerald, would love to see your photos especially with them being of the real thing - by the way We have a little 24' narrowboat if you'd like to swap?! {-) {-) {-)
Regards, Tony. :-))
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be a bit rough going round the Cape in that tony, lol
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Hi Tony
Just managed to find you again - not easy finding all the threads I was actively watching.
Nice anchor work.
Dave
(lost all my posts too but I think Martin put my post numbers back up)
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Decided now to revisit the rudder and its controls again. Although I'll be using a mixer from Action I was determined to get the most rudder throw possible and to incorporate some very good advice received from John 44. There is very little throw at best and made worse of course if there is a build up of slack so did a bit of revamping to remove any play and make the whole caboodle removable if necessary.
The servo box works a treat and providing the housing top plate can be removed, the servo can accessed and lifted from its box using long nose pliers through the top housing, and taken out from under the deck by hand.
(http://s17.postimage.org/a8chncehn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a8chncehn/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/mkfe0u2cl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mkfe0u2cl/)
To make the top plate removable, fixing studs were positioned either side of the housing making sure the rudder arm didn't foul. I think the dome nuts look acceptable.
(http://s18.postimage.org/p9nyw3bz9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p9nyw3bz9/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/vtm5op0m3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vtm5op0m3/)
To improve tolerances I re-bushed the top and bottom holes in the skeg and housing with brass tube and lined the top face of the skeg with brass while I was at it.
(http://s14.postimage.org/nxpkfx5x9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nxpkfx5x9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/a192fassx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a192fassx/)
To be able to remove the rudder post, which would come upwards and out through the top housing, the top post bearing (white metal) had to be removable so a little redesign was required. I first tried a placcy prototype and then produced it in brass.
(http://s18.postimage.org/5uw15bt5x/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5uw15bt5x/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/oovm7jviz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oovm7jviz/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/mjxh18pr9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mjxh18pr9/)
Not really necessary but made the centre bearing removable also. This is supporting the rudder - I'm not sure if this is how it should be, I thought the norm would for it to be supported by the skeg as the plan (seems?) to indicate, but in that case the plates on the stern post between which the centre bearing is fitted would be the wrong length, either that or the depth of rudder is insufficient, or the spread and position of rudder support arms is wrong, but am at the point now where I can't be a***d faffing anymore so it stays as is - it could all be down to me going haywire somewhere, ah well.
(http://s14.postimage.org/r9tdppkxp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r9tdppkxp/)
I lined the rudder support arms with a little brass box section to give a nice close tolerance sliding fit with the rudder post, and this now enables the rudder post to be slid up and out through the top housing.
(http://s13.postimage.org/wfbl46ckz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wfbl46ckz/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/yqoszp6bh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yqoszp6bh/)
For a more reliable drive to the rudder post from the servo arm, as John suggested a square bit of brass box section was soldered to the top of the rudder post and a corresponding square hole was cut to match in the servo arm , a nice snug fit without play is important here and the locknut is then only required
to keep the arm seated rather than to be relied upon for rudder drive.
(http://s13.postimage.org/p5hadd06r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p5hadd06r/)
And finally for now - a check to see how much rudder throw we get and if it's equal to both sides.
(http://s18.postimage.org/5gcs64wh1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5gcs64wh1/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/bikewmkw7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bikewmkw7/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/dmvl687rv/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dmvl687rv/)
A lot of effort but well worth it- very pleased with it now. :-)) :-)) cheerio for now, Tony.
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That's about as much as you can get on the real thing.
Mary Gabriel has so much slop that you can get hold of the rudder and waggle it about 4" either side. Makes going astern 'interesting', from what I've heard.
Lance
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Just the the slipway keels to be fitted now to finish off the bottom of the hull before starting to paint. I wanted a belt and braces fit with these so added some square placcy box section to the inside faces and glued brass pins within. location holes drilled to suit and cyano'd in, and then ran a small bead of cyano down each side of the contact edges and a quick blast of accelerator so it set and looked like welded seams, worked well. Sound as a pound - or is that a contradiction in terms these days? {-)
(http://s17.postimage.org/42llu7luz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/42llu7luz/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/acr0yzadf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/acr0yzadf/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/oru72d8x7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oru72d8x7/)
Now to the side deck handrail stanchions and kicking boards. I was a little apprehensive about these, my association with white metal hasn't improved that much, and I think if hand rails don't look just right, they can really detract from the finish of a model no matter how good the rest may be.
For more reliable fixings all the cast location pins were removed and replaced with brass pins and the triangular base plates then added. The stanchion hole pins that the chain shackles connect to, and that weren't broken by me, were poorly cast, deformed, or all ready broke so I filled the stanchion holes with chemical metal and re-drilled them and used small brass eyes instead.
(http://s18.postimage.org/cxgh4v6gl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cxgh4v6gl/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/84bu3t0yh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/84bu3t0yh/)
As there are no dimensions to work to, the stanchions were spread to be visually acceptable and locating holes drilled in the side decks to suit. On the starboard side, the anchor and associated parts need to be considered so the location holes for these were pre-drilled using a template, the stanchions are again spread to visual satisfaction whilst keeping in mind there are kicking board support brackets to be added in between the stanchions on both port and starboard sides.
(http://s15.postimage.org/65ydeaatz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/65ydeaatz/)
The kicking boards are shaped (pretty well as marked) to follow the curves and sweep of the decks and a suitable bit of placcy used to set the height.
(http://s15.postimage.org/9jkuplphz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9jkuplphz/)
Although unsuccessful on the front deck, I again decided to try and make up all the stanchions and kicking boards as complete assy's that can be removed for painting and be out the way of my clumsy mitts when doing further work. They may well be the very last items to be fitted before trials. So, the boards were positioned and glued against the stanchions in situ on deck, they were then removed and the stanchion brackets glued in place. The verticals were ok but the brackets for the angled bracing stanchions needed some rework which afterwards, made the holes at the top look a bit iffy - a dollop of thick cyano and blast of accelerator made an acceptable fillet of weld :-)). It would have been easier if the kicking boards were placed lower down, but then they would of fouled on the spigot of the triangular base plates and not sat tight against the stanchion, the gap between the boards and deck would also be minimal.
(http://s10.postimage.org/4qz03cxet/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4qz03cxet/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/ea1flwqy3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ea1flwqy3/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/udxnqt0t3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/udxnqt0t3/)
Although there was very little room for error, I managed to drill, pin and glue the board support brackets in position from behind the boards having previously filed the bases to the correct angle to suit the deck and then glued brass pins in the base.
(http://s14.postimage.org/da2v1guvh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/da2v1guvh/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/aeh1mht1z/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aeh1mht1z/)
A bit of care needed when handling now! O0
(http://s17.postimage.org/ob250uvl7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ob250uvl7/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/rbohxvu4t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rbohxvu4t/)
Phew!- am well pleased that it worked this time ............... well at least they stayed together long enough to be painted anyway O0 {-) {-) {-)
(http://s14.postimage.org/9uozgiiq5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9uozgiiq5/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/nkz1oygpx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nkz1oygpx/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/9kbygogvf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9kbygogvf/)
Hope to catch you later, bye for now.
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Thanks Dave & Ray, more soon. Ray I notice your post total looks original, did you have to re-register? only I'm sure I did more than 3 O0 {-) {-)
Regards, to both. :-))
Sorry for the late response Tony - I did have to re-register and initially started with a fresh count of 1 >>:-(
however, after a few fresh postings it shot back up. Guess the mods' are slowely bringing things back to normal.
New subject: Cracking job with those stanchions / kickboards :-)) The slight gap you mention might assist with water clearance if you get a few "goffers" %%
Regards,
Ray.
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Good afternoon Tony,
All looks very good. Do the toe boards as printed on the styrene sheet follow the curve of the deck well or did you have to cut these differently. The reason for the question is that I am making mine from sheet mahogany and will use the others as formers.
Cheers,
Dave
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Hello Dave, yes they were pretty close but having said that I made sure by positioning them and seating them directly on the decks to make sure they followed the profile, any slight alteration on the bottom edge were mirror imaged on the top. Always cut a template if unsure though as your hull / decks may differ slightly.
Kind regards, Tony. :-))
P.S. will post again soon - am just rectifying a couple of minor disasters :(( - all to be revealed O0
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Well I did say I'd tell it like it was, so if your watching dicky here's a couple of cock ups for you ;)
Despite thinking I was happy with the rudder set up as was with no intention of making anymore alterations, it was still gnawing at me as to why the rudder was being supported on the centre bracket instead of the skeg. The rudder had only ever been trialled whilst the hull was on its stand, after some chin scratching and staring at it like I was watching paint dry, the penny dropped - the rudder was so low it was below the keel! The bottom support arm was way too high by 14mm, still can't figure out how on earth I'd got it so wrong - here we go again. :((
This is how it was
(http://s17.postimage.org/kaogubi57/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kaogubi57/)
This is how it should be
(http://s14.postimage.org/54ebwjw59/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/54ebwjw59/)
So............(http://s18.postimage.org/ueiab4hph/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ueiab4hph/)
Replacement under way
(http://s10.postimage.org/63kdg6wmd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/63kdg6wmd/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/4j6b9r3ar/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4j6b9r3ar/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/yxpxiwa65/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yxpxiwa65/)
After that little escapade time to see what bits were left to make, marshalled all the painted parts for a roll call then I found this:
(http://s14.postimage.org/hmd0djgjh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hmd0djgjh/)
I felt gutted, this mast had looked fine for weeks but now all the paint on the styrene parts had cracked away. All other parts are fine and I hadn't experienced this before, it could only be bad surface preparation I think, and to boot, it couldn't be on the worst assy possible. Tried all sorts to strip it off but boy was this paint hard and nothing I know / had would touch it without damaging the styrene. Being so hard and brittle actually worked in my favour, after a full day scraping, flicking , sanding and filing I finally got it back to base, except that because of the ammount of handling I cracked one of the legs - spose that was inevitable knowing me O0 so off they came and another repair made.
(http://s16.postimage.org/fmo4xe5ch/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fmo4xe5ch/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/cdroduvxn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cdroduvxn/)
To try going forward again I think a few simple bits were the order of the day. Started with a few bits to carry the fender, wanted something a little more robust than the white metal bits supplied so knocked up a few of my own.
(http://s14.postimage.org/9zdjbbhq5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9zdjbbhq5/)
The fender itself is supplied as resin moulding and cord to be crocheted (yes that's right - I looked it up! {-)) around it ..............it was easier to buy one! I wanted to use the end fittings so inserted a length of brass wire through the fender which helped maintain its shape and gave me something to fix the shackle ends to.
(http://s16.postimage.org/qs9pq8hox/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qs9pq8hox/)
Made the boat hooks at the same time.
(http://s15.postimage.org/5nkc8klfr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5nkc8klfr/)
The lifebelts needed the usual bit of filling and dressing, but the brackets supplied would not support them correctly even with a couple of mm packing behind them and as usual they would not give a little either, yes I broke one trying :o :o so made new ones from brass.
(http://s10.postimage.org/sjprv25d1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sjprv25d1/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/3kt7mmd1t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3kt7mmd1t/)
Think I'll do some paintwork next, bye for now.
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One I forgot to post - the modified fender in place.
(http://s13.postimage.org/bhtb5kodv/CIMG5659_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bhtb5kodv/)
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The fender itself is supplied as resin moulding and cord to be crocheted (yes that's right - I looked it up! ) around it ..............it was easier to buy one! I wanted to use the end fittings so inserted a length of brass wire through the fender which helped maintain its shape and gave me something to fix the shackle ends to.
now then Tony......you've just missed your chance to learn a new skill...........yer mates would really have been impressed if you'd have knitted your own...... {-) {-) {-) {-)
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I did actually give that some thought Neil O0.................................for about 10seconds! {-) {-) {-)
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New you would figure the rudder out without me saying anything Tony. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
Try Fairy Power Spray to remove paint from plastic. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
Would have liked to have seen you crocheting though. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/ROFL_C1.gif)
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Hello Rich', knitting? me? your 'avin a laugh {-) it's a lovely made fender though, bought it from a chap at Ellesmere show his mum makes them excellent quality and very reasonably priced.
Tried all sorts of sprays / oven cleaners etc. to strip the paint, even one a good friend bought especially for me (Cillit bang?) anyway nothing would make it even frown, it was tetrosyl acrylic spray and set as hard as polyurethane and gave a lovely smooth finish, there such a range of modern acrylics now and probably all have a different recipe, no matter sorted now.
Oh by the way, you could have put me out of my misery re the rudder earlier you so 'an so! {-) {-) Always happy to learn and accept constructive criticism in good faith me.
Hope you are both ok, speak soon and regards to Gill.
Love the animations!
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Quick trial to see if photos will load with Imageorg.
A few more bits painted up.
(http://s17.postimage.org/a6ldae1t7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a6ldae1t7/)
Yippeee at Last. So......... the next bit is a bit(?) rough and ready, here's the crude but simple method of being able to assemble and remove at will, the front bulkhead, the dashboard and the floor assemblies. I can now fix all the ancillary parts in place and assemble all 3 together afterwards.
(http://s15.postimage.org/jal5x1pxj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jal5x1pxj/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/5mykbddi5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5mykbddi5/)
I had a real sphincter muscle testing time when spraying the superstructure. On the last coat (and can) I could see the spray changing from orange to clear and everything in between, then I felt my fingers getting wet and noticed paint dribbling down the can, it was leaking around the neck and I soon realised that what was coming intermittently from the nozzle was pure solvent, I was well underway and had no choice but to carry on and moving round like a demented cat trying to get a full all over cover keeping the surface wet, and hope all would mix equally while the solvent evaporated off. Luck was on my side for a change, and although not as good as the previous coat, the finish wasn't at all bad considering what could have been a complete disaster.
(http://s7.postimage.org/bt95mck0n/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bt95mck0n/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/dkodza1el/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dkodza1el/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/79cag5ay3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/79cag5ay3/)
After that fright thought I'd leave well alone for a few days so went back to the hull. I soldered in the grease/ oiler tubes, made and fitted a little water / grease trap around the universal joints, temporarily dropped in what will be fixed battery carriers after ballasting trials.
(http://s15.postimage.org/wsx46g8ef/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wsx46g8ef/)
Now to see if Dave's electrickery bits work I can follow what it says on the tin! {-) Magic!! (nice one Dave :-)))
(http://s18.postimage.org/hdt167wdx/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hdt167wdx/)
As all worked as it should, now to mount the leccy bits a bit more neatly on a removable board. Don't know what the board I used is called but it's 6mm thick, as light as a feather, very strong, non conductive, takes cyano a treat and best of all it came free! It sits on a couple of placcy brackets which are glued to the side coamings. I'm sure you'll appreciate the elastrostretch scientific management system that keeps the spaghetti away from the motors, looks a b----y mess but works!
(http://s14.postimage.org/j1lr1mwt9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j1lr1mwt9/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/91it74xsh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/91it74xsh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/xpqoctir7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xpqoctir7/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/my89p3wkd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/my89p3wkd/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/vlstp3dzb/12_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vlstp3dzb/)
Fitted brass spring tags at the edge of the board for lighting contacts and mounted a placcy bar to a superstructure crossmember to hold the adjustable internal contacts - (big brass screws - don't think I'll pull 100 amps but Blackpool eat yer heart out.) must source some smaller fixings one day. With hope that all the considerations of component positioning and height etc. were correct, happily a trial fit proved to be ok.
(http://s16.postimage.org/4363fgqtt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4363fgqtt/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ucr5y9cr5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ucr5y9cr5/)
Finally for now I primed up the hull which pleasingly showed very little further work needed before the top coats can be applied, bye bye till the next time :-)).
(http://s12.postimage.org/i9f36v149/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i9f36v149/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/50o53hq5b/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/50o53hq5b/)
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Looking good mate.(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/drinking25.gif)
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it certainly is, tony.
neil.
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Good afternoon Tony,
Your boat is look very impressive to date. I have also fixed my rudder slightly lower than the keel, but think I will leave it as is. Paint looks really good with a nice glossy finish. Painting is not a part of the model I'm looking forward to as I have had some bad experiences in the past with paint not taking. What paint did you use and how much prep work did you do before hand?
Good luck with the remainder of the build and thanks again for putting this blog together and keeping it going. :-))
Regards
Dave.
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Hello Dave nice to know your still watching. Re painting, well in short there's all ready an awful lot of documented advice on here from experts to which I have taken heed, prepping is everything and paint hides absolutely nothing! any blemishes or bad joints etc show up like a beacon. It really is a case of filling where required, I use a combination of car body filler, chemical metal, and Humbrol filler followed by flatting down using anything from 240 to 800 wet and dry, (I prefer to use it wet when nearing an acceptable finish). Ensure the surface is clean and greasefree before any coats are applied, I use good old washing up liquid and water and then meths especially on white metal. I use Simoniz acrylic primer (that I bought in bulk off ebay at £2.80 per 500ml including postage), it has good opacity and adhesion and is compatible with all the Halfords and Hycote topcoat sprays that I've used. Anything that shows up at primer stage is going to look hideously worse after glossing if not re-prepped. On white materials I use a grey primer first, carry out any rework, and respray using white primer for a second look see. Using the different colours obviously helps to see any imperfections. Reasonable sized parts I use my little spray booth with my workroom, parts and paint at at least room temperature. The Hull I spray outside on a warm still day, and quite often dunk the spray can in a jug of warm water to warm it up a tad before giving it a wrist aching shake! - works for me. Please accept Dave I'm no expert and am always learning, I've had my fair share of "tears before bedtime" scenarios! Oh yes, always flat down between all coats wherever possible - not always possible or practical on some smaller items.
Hope this helps, regards and good luck with your build. :-))
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Hello folks back again, I hadn't given up but life sometimes has a habit of getting in the way of modelling %)
After priming the hull time to mask up for the gloss coats, I found it impossible to accurately mark out a line for the blue top part of the hull as drawn on the plan, so I simply marked where the waterline 'appears to be' at a mid point along the hull, took a measurement up from this to the underneath of the rubbing strake and masked off a line parallel to the strake. The width of a roll of masking tape combined with 6mm Tamiya tape sufficed nicely. The underside of the strake was not a completely smooth consistent curve so a few minor adjustments to the line of the Tamiya tape was made by eye and worked out well.
(http://s8.postimage.org/8dp631cip/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8dp631cip/)
Three coats of white gloss, one horrible big blob, a little rework to the blob and all came out well in the end.
(http://s15.postimage.org/rmbrq52av/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rmbrq52av/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/bphl75zaf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bphl75zaf/)
While that's hardening off ------- to the dreaded cabin windows! No matter how careful I try to be I always manage to scuff, scratch or leave a glued fingerprint on these but worse than that I paid the price for haste and learned some valuable lessons for not following logic along the way O0
In short I had cut out the window openings following the guide lines impregnated in the superstructure, during a different build session, the window frames were cut out to the outline printed on the styrene and painted up ............... they didn't match! :(( <:( From the outside some of the frames only just covered the aperture and even then had to be a bit on the squint to the profile of the cabin, and looking from the inside out they looked flippin' awful, barely 0.5mm of frame showing in some places and up to 4mm in others so not only did they look ---- it made marking out the gluing areas a nightmare. This may not be so important if you can't see inside the cabin but you can on this model, especially if trying to enhance it with lighting {:-{ NOT a happy bunny.
Memo to me, next time, never mind what's marked 1) cut out frame templates 2) check size and shape against cabin profile 3) allow enough margin and some room for glue 4) consider what the frame may look like from the inside including the colour 5) cut out the apertures in the cabin/superstructure wall to match the frames allowing equal coverage around the periphery --------- write out one hundred times I must ...............
Just gotta live with it now so with a bit of cutting and carving achieved the best of a bad job that I could. For the five front windows I marked out for best fit and where I could remove paint for gluing, cyanoed the frames in, used a black felt pen to colour the inside and used non fogging cyano for the glazing.
I then re-painted inside the cabin around the windows matt black to try and deceive the eye, helps a little.
(http://s14.postimage.org/bf1umqb5p/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bf1umqb5p/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/wgjgibs6z/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wgjgibs6z/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/k4eobie01/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k4eobie01/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/jmzyycuob/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jmzyycuob/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/8551xiyrf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8551xiyrf/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/9ke7hugyt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9ke7hugyt/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/anvcby9vf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/anvcby9vf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/3v8rkohz1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3v8rkohz1/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ul5uyd7r9/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ul5uyd7r9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/frkq6tun5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/frkq6tun5/)
For the two rear orange windows I tried a different method. Positioning where the frames should go I used Tamiya tape as a guide lines, felt penned the inside of the frames, and applied thin VHB double sided tape to same, stuck them in place and placed the glazing against the tape from the inside. No glue or fingerprints, no paint removal, no mess - great! (VHB = very high bond) After all of this decided to do something simple and less stressful so I painted the nav light boxes and removed the masking tape from the wet and dry paper that represents the nonslip areas. Leaving on a happier note for now ok2 :-))
(http://s15.postimage.org/nnfixlo13/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nnfixlo13/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/jr2nl19qd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jr2nl19qd/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/xt007nbhl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xt007nbhl/)
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Hi Tony looks like you are enjoying the build, she,s looking good. :-))
john
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Thank you john, yes I really am thoroughly enjoying building this model. Not too long ago a member started a thread about striving for perfection and the dissapointment in not achieving it on the current build, but being more determined on the next, well I can fully concur with him. Fortunately however I'm at that stage in life when you know you can't teach experience and accept that to excel takes practice, it can be well frustrating learning the hard way, but learning it is and once bitten as they say - despite the cock ups I'm loving this model and that's enjoyment enough for me.
Cheers John and regards, Tony :-))
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You really are working hard at making it look the best, your paint has come out really well. I like your idea of heating the can in warm water before use, we learn from each other every day if we take the time to read the threads. I have as you already know followed your thread right from the get go & it has been well worth the effort. One day/ week I hope to make it across the pond & share a pint & a few tall stories with all you forum guys, it is a real pleasure to share ideas with you all, thank you Tony for the thread & hope we will soon be sharing our Tamar build. Mick B.
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yesterday I couldn't see any of the pictures you had posted tony...all I was getting was little squares with red crosses in them........
today I can see her in all her glory......and she looks great...no need for you to worry about the quality of your workmanship....it's super.
neil.
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Thank you lads, most kind and much appreciated. :-))
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yesterday I couldn't see any of the pictures you had posted tony...all I was getting was little squares with red crosses in them
Me too - but I thought the problem was at my end (ongoing Talktalk type problems).
It's all coming together nicley Tony - you'll soon be looking for another build.
How about a french lifeboat with the beaks hull?
Dave
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Which one is that Dave? not too well up on the many models of boats>
Regards, Tony.
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one of these here, Tony.... http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=35108.0
they're a Vegimite boat, like a Tamar.....you either love them or hate them.......personally I love them.....stunning lines.
neil.
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http://www.pilotmag.co.uk/2008/01/08/new-pilot-cutter-design/
SEXY!!!!! that's the shape - I'll look for some lifeboats later
Dave
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(http://s17.postimage.org/7qlsy1jzf/20090822louve_plisson9.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7qlsy1jzf/)
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Yes I do like that hull, don't know if that's just because it's so different, easy to see why they call it a beak! I love the Xbow style of hulls as well. Thanks for the links and info guys. :-))
Regards, Tony.
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Cracking on with this build now and hopefully will get this posting done before anymore 504 timeouts, having a belly full of these lately - getting a bit miffed now it's becoming a real bummer what with not being able to get on, time outs, loss of notifications, etc. so I can just imagine Martins' frustration. {:-{ >>:-(
Anyway on we go, needed to extend a fair bit of the wiring for lighting, I used the wire from an armature winding off an old motor, no idea if it's adequate but it works ok so I'll risk it.
(http://s16.postimage.org/9vgqcox69/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9vgqcox69/)
Most of the ancillary parts now painted ready for final assembly.
(http://s14.postimage.org/a0hoqqqod/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a0hoqqqod/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/61ffax623/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/61ffax623/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/z7nitzxt7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z7nitzxt7/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/9yogbs577/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9yogbs577/)
Fitted the dashboard in place - a bit crude but it works and makes for easy assembly and removable if necessary.
(http://s15.postimage.org/hy5o94g93/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hy5o94g93/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/kh2e6tf2l/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kh2e6tf2l/)
Remainder of the parts was then fitted to the floor and front bulkhead and again screwed together to make it another easy fit and removable assembly. The latter of the next two pics show the locating tabs for screwing this assy to the hull bearing supports.
(http://s17.postimage.org/6c0pzhotn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6c0pzhotn/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6z0389sb1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6z0389sb1/)
Here's the completed assy fitted to the superstructure.
(http://s16.postimage.org/625nmi9dd/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/625nmi9dd/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/jwwjvm0lp/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jwwjvm0lp/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/n0w6ve4av/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n0w6ve4av/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/yprgb4n51/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yprgb4n51/)
Finally for now the next pics show how I used the backrest supports for the cabin roof light contacts. The stripped down parts of choccy blocks glued to placcy angles fixed to the floor base allow vertical movement to adjust the pressure of the uprights against spring loaded contacts in the cabin roof.
(http://s17.postimage.org/yyh7vyn6z/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yyh7vyn6z/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/4u0m37rw1/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4u0m37rw1/)
Ta ta for now. Tony.
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As all the parts for the superstructure have been completed, thought I would finish this off before returning to the hull. As usual clumsy mits managed to knock a few chips off the edges of the superstructure so a few patient sessions of touching up were needed. Using the same paint I sprayed a couple of shots into the can lid and built up slightly above the required thickness of paint, let it harden off and a gently rub with 1000 grit wet and dry with a dab of T cut brought it down to level which blended in ok. Here are a few pics of the outcome.
(http://s15.postimage.org/nyms55xqf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nyms55xqf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/wxdt8i7ul/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wxdt8i7ul/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/bwekw2uqt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bwekw2uqt/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/n9v57cvtj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n9v57cvtj/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/rurvzujf7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rurvzujf7/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/7sdm3kysl/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7sdm3kysl/)
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Good afternoon Tony,
I would just like to say that you have done an incredible job :-)). I hope that mine works just as well, especially the paintwork. I look forward to see the final fully assembled boat and the pictures and report on the maiden voyage.
Regards
Dave
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Thanks Dave, yes will keep you informed however it goes. Paints hardened off nice on the hull now so won't be long before she gets her backside wet to ballast up and see if she floats! mind you I've still a bit to do but barring any more cock ups we're on countdown I think.
Regards, Tony. :-))
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Hull now painted.
(http://s14.postimage.org/543j946wt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/543j946wt/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/6f68khjc3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6f68khjc3/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/80qk9ecql/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/80qk9ecql/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/a7usxbi0t/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a7usxbi0t/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/fbqnz9iil/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fbqnz9iil/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/revzmttkt/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/revzmttkt/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/ih1mef2t3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ih1mef2t3/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/q0upgolr7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q0upgolr7/)
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Looking great Tony, a real credit to you. Note to myself- I should keep upto date with builds more. :embarrassed:
I'm hoping to get building again soon after I move house for the second time this year at the weekend, not done any building in 6 months. %% Hopefully catch up with you at some point, see you maybe going to Ethrow? I'll hopefully be up there too.
Keep up the good work, Dave. :-))
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OOOhhh, that looks very nice tony. Hope I can reach the same standard with my paint..........I ain't too good with that area of modelling, lol.
now, I have to ask a favour of you if possible please.
Could you send me a copy of the snippet in your instruction book for the Rother about how to construct the Drogue, and if you have a sketch or plan for the same, I would really appreciate it.
I have 4 to make for these boats of mine.
cheers, neil.
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http://www.marinewatchnsw.com/library/seamanship.html
there is a little diagram of on the above that looks nice and do-able - not sure if the type is correct for you?
Dave
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She is coming along great Tony, you are making a cracking job of her.
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cheers dave and thanks.
in the kit and instructions I think it gives a template for cutting cloth etc..and a simplified diagram.
cheers. neil.
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Thank you Dave (No.6) and Brian for your compliments gratefully received. It surprising just how much of a boost such comments from accomplished modellers can give, certainly helps to keep the enthusiasm fired up. :-)) Haven't seen anymore build logs of Ironsider/Northsider yet Brian - may start mine next and hope you don't mind if I come knocking! {-)
Hello Neil, re the drogue, So sorry but I cut the template out to try and use it myself and in all honesty I couldn't make out with it so it hit the bin. I also found the material supplied a bit on the small side so cut up and used and old handkerchief! There are no supplied instructions as such of how to do it, but I can pass on what was described by Rob Clark who did the review on this if you wish. Basically it states to form 2 wire rings 1x30mm & 1x50mm approx dia. and form a conical shape with the material and stitch a hem around the periphery of the rings, that's about it really {:-{. You can see the out come of mine from previous pics. I simply formed the rings, set them approx 50-60mm apart, wrapped thin card around them and use tape to hold it in shape having formed a cone. There is obviously both an overlap formed with the card and a pointy shape overhang at either end of the rings, I simply cut the ends parallel to the rings leaving just enough overhang to form the hem, and made a vertical cut through the cardboard cone to open it out and use as the template for the material allowing a tad extra for the join - couldn't do with the sewing bit so I used cyano to tack it around the rings a little at a time. I've no idea what the real ones looked like so I just tried to make it look the way it was drawn on the plan. I don't think either the ring dia's, the distance apart i.e. the length of the drogue or whether a perfect cone is formed or not is really that critical, as when its closed up on its supports (as in a concertina), you cant really see too much of the way it's been manufactured. You've probably worked all this out for yourself anyway but I've thrown this in as info for the build log and not to insult your intelligence! O0 %) Hope it helps, if not................sorry! {:-{ {-) {-) {-)
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Started the finally assembly of the hull now. Didn't like the grab rope white metal eyes as supplied - I was bound to break a few so made made news ones from brass and used some conical shaped "dress sequins" from the better halfs' sewing box for the bases - worked a treat.
(http://s15.postimage.org/8b9lwhap3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8b9lwhap3/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/lule58ie5/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lule58ie5/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/y8tf9r5ln/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y8tf9r5ln/)
In goes the electric board and ensure everything runs ok, had an initial problem but Dave (Action) came to the rescue and soon sorted it out.
(http://s7.postimage.org/47f0zrncn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/47f0zrncn/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/wz67vw7lf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wz67vw7lf/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/sak7d9c0r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sak7d9c0r/)
A few more bits added.
(http://s13.postimage.org/od2ybavlf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/od2ybavlf/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/m1f4esvsn/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m1f4esvsn/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/r9nykaewh/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r9nykaewh/)
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It's been a great build, and build thread too............
and to think you had doubts at first about doing one.
Sign me up for the next one. O0
Dave
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Hi Tony, Your workmanship is first class all the way. You don't need to play second fiddle to anybody on here. That is some of the best paint & detailing that I have seen on this or any forum. It has been a pleasure following your thread & I will follow your next build too if it is half as good as this one. One word sums it up for me, SUBERB. Mick B.
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Thank you very much guys O0 :embarrassed: :embarrassed: Still a bit to do yet but getting there, I'm at the point now that nearly everything I touch I've a little voice nagging me at the back of my mind ............"don't cock it up now - now DON'T cock it up!" Tempted to leave it for a while now %% %%
Thanks again guys and regards, me.
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thanks for the info tony..shouldn't be too hard.....for the good lady that is, lol.......just have to find some brown cotton.
cheers,
neil.
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Well this build finally finished except for trial launch and some figures. Other than the following pics - (lots of 'em! {-)) Not much else to add other than I think it looks a lovely model and a hearty well done to Dave Metcalf for producing it and presenting me with a most enjoyable challenge from which I feel I've learned an awful lot - kept me on me toes though you did Dave!! O0 {-) {-) I'm really pleased with the outcome now and feel well chuffed - it does float ............ but don't know yet how she'll sail but will let you know. All the electric bits are from Action, had a bit of a blip that drove us nuts but all working superb now.
Here we go with the final pics then and hope you've enjoyed watching, kind regards, Tony. :-)) :-))
(http://s12.postimage.org/is1e1jkbt/1_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/is1e1jkbt/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/jqgqvuzot/2_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jqgqvuzot/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/3thyz57al/3_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3thyz57al/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/qgt3axef5/4_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qgt3axef5/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/3ll5bc4sb/5_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3ll5bc4sb/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/hsfojkujt/6_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hsfojkujt/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/cjknlpc4p/7_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cjknlpc4p/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/7d3g5qdpx/8_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7d3g5qdpx/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/i0rr9xfbv/9_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i0rr9xfbv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/drysr98ap/10_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/drysr98ap/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/d6ik39b1p/11_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d6ik39b1p/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/4rgyqf9md/12_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4rgyqf9md/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/8gy806cgv/13_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8gy806cgv/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/d7nwj4apn/14_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d7nwj4apn/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/me8yebwjr/15_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/me8yebwjr/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/jehx8388l/16_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jehx8388l/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/m5y2i7qbl/17_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m5y2i7qbl/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/fjeg07oyr/18_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fjeg07oyr/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/jdy2xxzw5/19_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jdy2xxzw5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/g24u1regl/20_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g24u1regl/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/s7kukpgzf/21_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s7kukpgzf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/3yux0atd9/22_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3yux0atd9/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/s0azte7lh/23_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s0azte7lh/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/ob5oiwn7r/24_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ob5oiwn7r/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/tpua0qzxx/25_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tpua0qzxx/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/9tok51fdz/26_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9tok51fdz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6g74qxu81/27_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6g74qxu81/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ldflry7gh/28_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ldflry7gh/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/wxvmxb5s1/29_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wxvmxb5s1/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/wmv00y9sz/30_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wmv00y9sz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/9qvhqtk5d/31_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9qvhqtk5d/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/9c4m2m29t/32_Large.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9c4m2m29t/)
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Well done Tony..........I just wish I could see the pics.........all I'm getting are little boxes with red cross's in them.............. <:( <:( <:( <:(
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I can see them Neil. It looks like a 'Postimage' problem again on certain computers. %)
ken
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A very nice build Tony :-)) what's the next project ?
Paul
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It's been nice to tag along and you can book me in for the next build Tony O0
Dave
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I can see them Neil. It looks like a 'Postimage' problem again on certain computers. %)
ken
do you know how I could fix the problem if it's at my end, ken.
cheers,
neil.
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You have built yourself a really beautiful boat Tony & your paint work is first class. I am sure we will be seeing a great launch & sea trials too. What we seem to have missed is how clean & organised your workshop is in all your photos & also the Quality of the pictures. I hope Neil is taking notes on your workshop. LOL. Mick B.
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I can see them today......( strange one day I can't, the next day I can)...........what a beaut, Tony.........lovely job.
as for the other comments..............I shall ignore them {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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strange one day I can't, the next day I can
............ oh yes, and as you get older ......... {-)
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tt1..... even from 22,000 km [sea distance] away the final build looks lifelike :-)) .....which is the highest order O0 ...congratulations...... .....Derek
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:-))Tony, Wow what can I say, but she is a credit to you
Dave
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She looks fantastic Tony, a real credit to you. Making me fancy building another classic lifeboat. What's the next project?
Dave. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Simply brilliant Tony,
Fantastic build, well done :}
Dan
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cracking model :-))