Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: broger on February 11, 2012, 10:44:06 pm
-
Hi All
I thought you might like to see how I’m getting on with building the Alaska Steam Launch.
I was the one who resurrected Miranda and didn’t have clue how to start but with kind help of the forum I got the hull finished.
But I’m afraid that building a boat from someone else’s plans and a boat that has been made
beautifully by others, left me thinking that I wanted to do build something that had not been done before.
So I picked the Steam launch Alaska. You can see her from this website
http://www.thames-steamers.co.uk/
I lived in Windsor for 51 years and have seen her steaming along and thought what a beautiful boat.
So having contacted the owner I found out that he had four sheets of plans with the basic dimensions on, unfortunately he did not wish to post them to me in Wiltshire in case they got lost
So I arranged with a company close to the Alaska office to have them copied. That was a mistake as I got 4 photos of the plans at a cost of £50.00.
They did however give us an understanding of the shape and dimensions.
Now I say us because of the wonderful work done by Greg Simpson (gondolier88).
I sent him a copy of the pictures and he produced the shape in Delftship. Without this I would not have got off the ground.
I then used a program called 2d design and with a DFX output from Delftship I could produce the lines for the Ribs.
(http://s10.postimage.org/kk5r1syg5/DFX_output.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kk5r1syg5/)
From this I was able to produce the ribs in cardboard to test the shape.
(http://s13.postimage.org/phnoqp4f7/25102011398.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/phnoqp4f7/)
Now I should explain at this point that I am very privileged to have a part time job as a technician at a technical college that has a laser. This enabled me to cut out a perfect rib.
Some may say that this is cheating but you still have to have the skill to use it.
So after getting it right in cardboard I made all the ribs out of MDF, they'e going to be junked after so did not wish to waste good wood.
(http://s18.postimage.org/pdh07ysph/26102011401.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pdh07ysph/)
I'll show you how the planking and the keel went later
-
Fantastic looking boat, can you give us a clue to the scale and what steam plant you will be using?
David
-
Thank you David
It's 1/12 so it's 60" long
I’d like to put the D10 in because it’s the best look alike of the original but with Stuart in disarray I'm ether going to built it bespoke or get it from America.
-
The next part of the job was to make the keel, this had a problem in that using 3/8" mahogany I would have to drill a 6mm through 14” . The solution you can see in the picture below
(http://s15.postimage.org/6gmfauuvb/29112011420.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6gmfauuvb/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/91rzydk93/29112011421.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/91rzydk93/)
I used two pieces of 3/16 mahogany and ran a 6mm bullnose cutter along the length.
Fitted the outer housing for the shaft and glued the two halves together. Job done.
(http://s14.postimage.org/z75z2lpz1/09122011430.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z75z2lpz1/)
Now for the planking. This was done with 1/8 x 1/2 mahogany.
(http://s17.postimage.org/ajdg9xp0b/09122011432.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ajdg9xp0b/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/yoa2ktdc7/09122011435.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yoa2ktdc7/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/uk6t3n79j/02012012441.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uk6t3n79j/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/by8n35k07/02012012444.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/by8n35k07/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/78u6uphvr/05012012455.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/78u6uphvr/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/eftl1wio7/11012012473.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eftl1wio7/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/3nz8e8b77/11012012476.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3nz8e8b77/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/9e10ll90b/11012012477.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9e10ll90b/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/4x8nmwusb/11012012481.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4x8nmwusb/)
That’s me up to know, I’ve drawn the inside ribs just need to cut them out and fit.
(http://s15.postimage.org/f026l5o7b/Inside_Rib_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f026l5o7b/)
-
Looking good Alan.
Mick
-
The hull looks super. How did you manage to build it so fast?
By the way, what did you do to prevent the wooden strips to stick to the ribs you've built the hull on?
-
Thank you Mick.
Thank you kno3
The hull took about 3 weeks over Christmas and only because I had it in the dining room, very understanding wife that knows I hate the cold!
MDF has a fibrous edge and allows it to release easy if you happen to get glue in between. If you look close you can see black lines where some
of the ribs became attached but easily released.
I shall be painting it after its sanded down and coated with resin.
(http://s8.postimage.org/nwriylcs1/11012012480.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nwriylcs1/)
-
Working in the Dining Room what a wonderful idea. I am sure if you formed a new political party you would be Primeminister at the next election.
You have my vote.
regards
David
-
Alan, as a suggestion why not varnish above the water line as your stealer planks are below, it would be a shame to
paint that nice mahogany.
Mick
-
Thank you Misty
You made us laugh {-)
The one saving grace is that the table is glass and can't get scratched
It was also covered with a very thick plastic Cloth.
and was comming up for Christmas %)
Hi Mick
Yes your right but I'm making a scale model and it has to be painted as per the original
I'm just glad you think I made a good enough job of it. thanks.
-
Thank you David
It's 1/12 so it's 60" long
I’d like to put the D10 in because it’s the best look alike of the original but with Stuart in disarray I'm ether going to built it bespoke or get it from America.
Alan,
What do you mean by "bespoke " or get one from "America "
George.
-
Hi George
sorry I mean design and make one myself that looks like the origanal, or fabricate one from Stuart plans.
but as it happens I've decided to get the 2v-10m from tinypower
It looks very much like the Stuart D10 but it's cheaper and available.
http://www.tinypower.com/store.php?crn=56&rn=318&action=show_detail
Alaska's engine
(http://s14.postimage.org/mjgkf8usd/alaskaengine.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mjgkf8usd/)
You can see the resemblance
-
Thanks Alan,
I didn't know of this engine maker but twin engine looks good, no guessing where the design came from.
Can you say what the final cost will be including shipping costs?
Do we have to pay an import tax from U.S.A. ?
it can't be far off the Stuart prices for a D10, if you can find a set of castings at present.
It will be of interest to know.
George.
-
When I used to import from the US I used Dollars for Pounds as a yardstick this usually covered shipping and customs charges. It might pay you to contact Martin Baylis of MHB fame he is developing a new 2 cylinder engine which is supposed to be more realistic than the old PB2.
regards
David
-
Hi George
I'd just like to say how good two saltires look fluttering in the breeze, my dad was from Ardrie & coatbridge (coatbrig)
I'm not sure about import but the cost of the casting, which include the reversing gear, is £239 + £49.00 postage
Yes it's a bit more money but I didn't want to wait for Stuart to get there act together and I think it look lovely in bronze.
Hi David, I'm sure your right but I've bitten the bullet and put in my order.
I don't know if any one else has experience of the engine?
Alan
-
My way of getting the sides flat and parallel
(http://s17.postimage.org/sjqoxnayj/14022012004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sjqoxnayj/)
Fitted a few ribs to allow me to sand the hull down and get it painted (sorry mike)
(http://s17.postimage.org/lquxf49iz/15022012006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lquxf49iz/)
-
She's looking lovely now you've started to fair it, are you sticking with those frames or are you going to make some mahogany ones?
Greg
-
that's a beauty of a hull you've built. :-))
-
Hi
I've been following your build - you've created a very nice hull for a lovely subject.
I'm interested in how you will form the canopy (but I'm happy to just wait and see )
Dave
-
Hi Greg
I was going to as you won't see them, are you going to tell me something ? {-)
Thank you logoman, thats kind of you.
Hi Dave
Not sure myself yet, I tend to plan as I build.
I will have a better Idea when I get to sail in her Thurday week.
She is going into dry dock for a couple of weeks and the owner has invited me on.
it will be the first time and I'll spend most of it measuring and taking pictures.
She is going to be in the queens flotilla.
-
No, not to worry, just a little bit of a shame to put plywood into such a beautiful mahogany hull, but if your'e happy and sure no-ones going to see them then ply it is!
It will be interesting to see what fabric you use for the canopy- there may be a tea towel going missing in a kitchen somewhere near you...!
Greg
-
Thanks Greg,
we have a big school canteen !
I know what you mean about the ply but the mahogany split across the grain and I didn't trust it.
All the other wood will be the same as Alaska, not sure what it is yet but it's lighter.
I Decided to put the ribs in whole but they will all be cut later
You can see from the top view that there is double skin for the walkway all the way round
I hope your wife and new baby are well
Alan
(http://s16.postimage.org/46uocprip/Top_Deck_View.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/46uocprip/)
-
Alan,
They're both doing great thanks, not had much sleep the past couple of nights so if you've got any spare send some in the post will you.
P. Freebody's did the new upperworks on Alaska, and they tend to use Teak for most fitting out, sometimes replaced by Honduras Mahogany where cost is of a greater consideration.
Alaska certainly looks like she has teak uperworks. Close grain red cedar is a good scale representation of teak, and a damn sight cheaper too.
Greg
-
Brilliant info Greg
Thanks
-
O.K. you get to me, the ply will go and either oak or teak for the ribs
What helped was this article in the classic boat magazine from 1992
Ply would not do it justice.
http://www.peterfreebody.com/downloads/Classic_Boat_Issue50_1992.pdf
I'd like to get an air brush for painting the hull
Could anyone recommend one?
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200600974912?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Hi
£77 + £10 postage and it has an air reservoir. Just bought one for occasional use. Not used yet so I
can't actually recommend it ..........but is quiet, has the accesories and a reservoir - all in delivered for £87.
Regards Dave
-
O.K. you get to me, the ply will go and either oak or teak for the ribs
What helped was this article in the classic boat magazine from 1992
Ply would not do it justice.
http://www.peterfreebody.com/downloads/Classic_Boat_Issue50_1992.pdf
Good man! :-)) that's the point- you have got such a wonderful hull; you could use ply and it would work, but does it do your boat justice, er, no!
On practical terms I would go for oak- it's more contemporary for boats of Alaska's size and is far more readily available (read-££'s rather than £££'s!). That said, you can sometimes pick up really nice Teak side table etc in antiques shops that sell them for the value of the piece rather than it's materials.
I'm think if you look in the 'painting, finishing and care' section there are a couple of discussions on what's hot and what's not in the airbrush world. We got one of the Clarke airbrush kits (compressor not included) for touch up work on Gondola and we were pretty impressed with the quality considering the price.
Greg
-
Thanks Dave
I don't need a compressor as I have a hydravain but I'd be pleased to hear how you get on with the sprayer.
Hi Greg
I can't believe thats only £9.00 ! :o
I'll keep them both in mind and will read the articles
cheers
Alan
-
Finally got some time between GCSE & A level projects to finish the stern
(http://s13.postimage.org/l7y75r3f7/05032012029.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l7y75r3f7/)
I'm of on Thurday to take a sail in ALASKA down to the dry dock, so will get all the pictures and measurements I need to finish it.
-
Hi All
sorry I haven't published anything for a while but where off again now
First must send a picture of Alaska in front of the queen.
Broke the keel as the grain in the mahogany when across, have now replaced it with a down grain.
Rudder made and just bent up the rudder guard.
I'm just getting the courage to paint the hull !!
wish me luck
Alan
p.s. for some reason I'm still called BROGER instead of Kerrsy from the computer crash.
(http://s9.postimage.org/mp4mopo4b/DSC02948.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mp4mopo4b/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/yeou5cn5t/23062012143.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yeou5cn5t/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/wggsl6q51/27062012147.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wggsl6q51/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/oe0odvirf/27062012148.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oe0odvirf/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/baodcrjup/27062012144.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/baodcrjup/)
-
Hi Allan, looking great so far. Just curious as to whether you have received your Tiny Power engine and if so what you think of it? While it was still active I used to belong to to NASMA (North American Steam Modellers - yes I know New Zealand is not that close to Nth America but they let me in anyway) and several of the American members wrote very favourably about the Tiny Power engines so I was curious as to what you thought of it. They seem to be more in to full size boats and engines but they have been making models for many years and you dont get to do that by producing rubbish. Cheers, Ian.
-
Hello Kiwimodeller
Yes I've had for a few monthe but have only milled to base so far
Having to use the mill at school is a pain when the kids are there becuse I can't leave it set up.
Summer holidays soon so can go in and mill to my heart content.
I found the quality very good
My only two gripes would be thet they want another £40 for the reversing plate, when I bought the reversing gear I assumed that would be part of it. and the import duty was £56
on top of the £240 for the engine.
Did the NASMA publish any pictures of how to machine this engine?
Alan
(http://s18.postimage.org/7eoi76ch1/29062012149.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7eoi76ch1/)
-
I dont recall any articles on building it, just a few photos of them in boats but I will climb up in to my garage attic tomorrow and see if I still have the newsletters. regards, Ian.
-
Thank you Ian
That would be great
You are gentleman
alan
-
Hi All
Well a lots happened since I last posted
Changed the engine, Changed the boiler, painted the hull etc.
The first change was the engine, the original idea of fitting a tiny power 2V-10M turned out to be much to big and out of scale so I've got a TVR that fittes the scale perfectly
I've also changed the boiler to a "Yarrow" design as per K.N. Harris. This allows me to make it look like the original on the outer casing and also allows me to put the funnel
in exactly the right place no matter where the boiler is. I would like to thank George Thomson for his invaluable and continuing help in this.
The hull has been filled and painted, Peter green the owner of Alaska gave a tine of the same paint she was painted with in the refit, It's international polyurethane and it's fantastic stuff
just brush it on and wait for a very smooth finish.
If only it had been that simple, first I applied the GRP resin to the inside of the hull, this was fine, then I applied to the outside, well it all parted like oil on water and had to rub the whole thing down
back to the wood. Tried a second time and the same thing happened I can only think that it may have been cleaning the outside down with white spirit and the residue remained in the wood.
any way got a standard wood primmer and bob's your uncle.
(http://s15.postimage.org/upby57q0n/2012_09_02_087.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/upby57q0n/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/br2xby5ej/2012_09_02_089.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/br2xby5ej/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/pflwpibvd/2012_09_09_097.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pflwpibvd/)
It has 5 coats, just need to do the red water line and then the matt black anti foiling for the bottom. Peter has also very kindly donated this as well.
I'm not sure how you get a line on the boat to paint without putting it in a tank so I used the kitchen and a laser when the wife was out !!
(http://s10.postimage.org/3pp2l9hjp/2012_09_11_098.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3pp2l9hjp/)
Now this is where she gets the 6th coat of paint as I used the wrong pen to mark the line, it turned out to be indelable and permanent !!
I've skinned the engine and boiler area and will rib it ti to match the original hull
(http://s10.postimage.org/3nedpwsnp/2012_09_19_113.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3nedpwsnp/)
As for the engine it's made and runs nicely at 30 psi with a surprising amount of torque.
The boiler will be 6" long with 2.5" 5/16 tubes connecting the 2" top tube to the two 1" bottom mud tubes
Now 5/16 copper tube is about £3.50 a foot. 10Mtrs of micro bore 5/16 tube £18.00 from eBay. Thank you again George.
Got a jig for cutting the tubes as a pipe cutter flanged the ends over.
(http://s13.postimage.org/gqanf5o8j/2012_09_16_099.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gqanf5o8j/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/6re2drbkb/2012_09_16_100.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6re2drbkb/)
For those who noticed the golf clubs, yes I play golf and my handicap was 9 since taking up modelling i'm up to 13!!
I had quite a fright when I went to the Bristol show to buy the silver solder, I need 15 rods at a cost of £79.00, ouch
While walking round B&Q I found some copper brassing rods, I was going to brazze them with brass but thought i'd try these.
As I served my time a s a welder and sheet metal worker I still have the skills to weld.
(http://s8.postimage.org/cipdifr7l/2012_09_05_091.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cipdifr7l/)
It made a great weld with out and additional flux and I must confess , not a lot of cleaning.
So 4 rods for £3.48 Bargain.
I made a template for drilling the holes at 60 deg on the top tube.
(http://s18.postimage.org/5dyigjtw5/2012_08_20_044.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5dyigjtw5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/in7u2wt91/2012_08_20_046.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/in7u2wt91/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/hg0nexw0b/2012_08_20_048.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hg0nexw0b/)
I've cut the holes with an 8mm slot drill as it makes a neater hole.
As the hull has a nice coat of paint I thought I'd better treat her to a new stand
(http://s8.postimage.org/cln1ahz0h/2012_09_19_112.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cln1ahz0h/)
The holders are made from 8mm Aqua marine Acrylic, Just to simulate water !.
I'll let you know how I get on with the boiler. Shouldn't be so long next time as I don't play golf in the winter :}
-
I almost forgot to show you a few pictures of Alaska at the Thames Pagent
(http://s10.postimage.org/i2smdte6t/DSC02947.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i2smdte6t/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/qgqkcaqnr/627b70676fbd.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qgqkcaqnr/)
And of course someone had to give her majesty and family a lift home !!!
(http://s9.postimage.org/hse9fwa4r/3156afd072e9.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hse9fwa4r/)
It ever runs on Auto Pilot.
(http://s8.postimage.org/q5qucwvwh/97d3069980.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q5qucwvwh/)
-
it's a beaut.
-
it's a beaut.
what a way to address our Soveriegn lady ????.................."It's a beaut" %% %% %% %% {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
-
Was it on Auto Pilot or was Our Sovereign steering with her knee?
Regards,
Gerald.
PS what happened to the Alaska after?
-
Alan,
Just a few tips on the Yarrow boiler construction, the question has been asked by John ( southsteyne2 ) on another thread on 'HOW TO ' fix in the tubes into the boiler.
Make a jig from a piece of flat plate with the holes marked out to match the ones in the top drum and the 2- bottom mud drums, fit the tubes into the top drum for soldering and put the jig on the other end of the tubes, remove the jig after soldering and repeat for the other side.
This keeps the tube all in line which can now be put into the bottom mud drums and soldered, a word of caution, don't let the weight of the tubes act on the top drum as when it's been heated becomes very soft and can be distorted by the weight of the tubes, solder in the end plates last.
This jig was made to hold 50 x 5/16" dia tubes per side on a large Yarrow boiler which on reflection I should have made the casing wider similar to the small boiler for better heating.
(http://s10.postimage.org/ivgvo24md/tube_jig.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ivgvo24md/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/qw2aos8z1/Big_Engine_8.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qw2aos8z1/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/p6kxryp9h/Big_Engine_9.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p6kxryp9h/)
This small boiler with 25 x 5/16" tubes per side was made using the same jig.
(http://s14.postimage.org/j64pb4lf1/Yarrow_Boiler_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j64pb4lf1/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/ekcpx3qcb/Yarrow_boiler_5.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ekcpx3qcb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/t9zt2r5jb/Yarrow_boiler_7.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t9zt2r5jb/)
I hope this is of help.
George.
-
Thank you George
Some very usefull information
I think you have made a very good job of the boiler & the engine
I hope mine turns out as good.
regards
Alan
-
Well I was going to put more on this blog but it seems no one wishes to comment on anything
I can,t believe no one is interested in copper brazing.
So goodby I,m not posting on a site that has no interest .
-
Well I was going to put more on this blog but it seems no one wishes to comment on anything
I can,t believe no one is interested in copper brazing.
So goodby I,m not posting on a site that has no interest .
I agree, this site is dead for live steam.
-
You will find any people 'follow' threads, but few post replies.
Many, like myself do this, not because they are not interested, but because they do not wish to 'clog' the thread with extraneous posts which add nothing to the thread beside 'stroking the authors vanity'. %)
I follow threads to learn O0
And on occasion will express an opinion, when warranted.
I will start threads in the future when I have enough data and have time when 'life's' other commitments allow.
It's your call, but I did find your build of great interest, and if you want to 'throw in the towel' mid-thread then so be it.
As to 'kive steam', there is a very group of good core people who have contributed to the forum, and I thank them for their efforts to show us how its done. Live steam is both expensive and time consuming, which is all the more reason to thank those who do take the time to show us 'mere mortals' their boats and power plants.
Just my thoughts and ramblings :-))
cheers
vnkiwi
-
Hi There, I have only just found your thread and will now follow it closely, you are doing a fine job so far, please do not stop...
Regards,
Nick. :-)) :-)) :-))
-
Oh kerrsy, please don't give up on us! Your whole build is fascinating. Personally I am looking forward to the hull build progressing as well as the steam plant. As vnkiwi said, there are plenty of folk who read your posts without commenting - it doesn't mean they aren't interested, just that they haven't a specific contribution to make. If we promise to chip in now and then, will you carry on? Please?
Greg
-
Well what a shame I had to winge to get some attention, I don't need stroking just to show an interest and help me to make a better job of my first scratch build model.
Good debate has great rewards, showing the build is just like writing a book a forum should have healthy debate with agreements and disagreements.
Alan
-
Quite. I am about to build an African Queen to 1/10th scale, I am using a Kingston Mouldings fibreglass hull but the rest will be scratch built, no ply will be used, I have sheet mahogany , beech for beams and oak for planking. I will be interested in following the hull building process as my next project will be fully scratch built.
Best wishes,
Nick. :-)) :-)) :-))
-
kerrsey......I have been following this thread since day 1 :o & liked it to the extent I have viewed all of the content on the real Alaska WEB site
I understand your hull will finally be painted as the prototypical..........keep up the good work.....I will look forward to your build continuing & the steam component
Your comment that no one is interested in brazing is a little unfounded
Some of the work here on Mayhem is an inspiration to us all.......you know the open steam launch builds by [Mick] & [Jerry C] & some of the steam work by George [ooyah/2]
Here is my collection from Cup Alloys for my steam tubing & fittings.......I just haven't got there yet
PS...I also think the training session on the Cup Alloys WEB site is very helpful.......Derek
-
That goes for me too. I have been watching and learning from the start. We all get the blues now and again and think nobody loves us. Building a steam project is a long drawn out process if you're doing it right which is, I believe, why there are not many of us doing it. Keep on going, "we're out out there". You're doing great.
Derek, hide the bling man, you'll get burgled. I only had one piece of wire and it's all gone. Got loads of flux left though!
Jerry.
-
I totaly agree with you Alan, if you want real interest in live steam post on RC Groups you will find very enthusiastic members with encouraging remarks.
I started a topic rebuilding a steam drifter with no interest or comments whatsoever, when you take the time and trouble to post pictures without a response its very discouraging, like you I will not be posting anymore topics on MBM
Good luck with your build
Mick
-
I have been following when I can, but am in the midst of house sale, buying, packing and moving. I have done Silver (Brazing), but am always interested on how others do it you never know when you will pick up a trick or learn some thing new.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
Oh dear, another skeleton in the cupboard of T'internet. We've had the death of the local model shop cos we need everything yesterday,Cheque book modelling is rife and now Mass Adulation is a requisite. Sad times for personal satisfaction. Don't worry newbies, some of us will try to help without blowing smoke up the posteriors of those who think they need it.
Regards Ian
Alan is an extremely competent and talented engineer, someone who has passed his skills onto hundreds of young people at college level, and yet, feels like he receives less interest and discussion on a site dedicated to interest and discussion in the topic being discussed.
Above said, Alan's experience in building model steamboats is small- although he puts himself down far more than he should- and he invites all helpful advice, which is gratefully received- as anyone who has helped Alan will testify.
I agree that MBM members often leave a lot to be desired on the discussion side of things, often finding consolation in seeing the number of views on topics, rather than replies.
I am just as guilty as anyone else here, often reading interesting posts before work, not having time to reply, then think 'I've read that one already' later on, and don't take the time to reply.
Perhaps, if many of us feel like this is a problem, we need to take it upon ourselves to comment on other's topics too...
Keep up the good work Alan :-))
Greg
-
Yes, it is worth mentioning that this thread has received over 2000 views to date, which shows interest.
It could also be that the skills demonstrated are specialised and many interested viewers do not feel qualified to comment.
-
Alan, I like others have only just found this thread, like others I am interested. Unfortunately steam boats are in a minority, being more difficult to make or expensive to by.
My son gave me a whole pack of copper to copper rods, (Rothenburger-Rolot S2) . I have been unsure if they are alowed on boilers because I can't fined out if they have a zinc content?
(http://s8.postimage.org/fyqemjic1/new1_012.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fyqemjic1/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/tw1n1oeq1/006_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tw1n1oeq1/)
-
Yes, it is worth mentioning that this thread has received over 2000 views to date, which shows interest.
It could also be that the skills demonstrated are specialised and many interested viewers do not feel qualified to comment.
[/quote
Alan,
The above quote can give you some idea of the interest taken in your build and the response by the members to your concern, don't be put off by one members nasty comments.
I for one am very interested in your copper to copper brazing attempts as the price of Silver Solder has gone thro' the roof and an alternative in Copper rods may be the answer to the cost of Silver solder.
To answer Hammers question, there is nothing in the Blue Book of Boiler testing and Making of 2008 that says Copper rod brazing is not allowed hence my interest in Alan's brazing technics.
Alan I hope that you will continue with your build progress.
George
-
Hammer,
www.bgtherm.com/products/piping/pipes_fittings/accessories/d/Soldering,%20Brazing,%20and%20Welding%20Technology.pdf (http://www.bgtherm.com/products/piping/pipes_fittings/accessories/d/Soldering,%20Brazing,%20and%20Welding%20Technology.pdf)
Page 176 is Rothenberger's data sheet for their Rolot products. It seems it is a Copper-Phosphorous alloy only.
Greg
-
I would like to thank the moderators for removing the offensive remark aimed at me.
-
Thank you Greg & George for that information. Apart from being cheaper than silver solder it will fill gaps and large fillets can be built. But I am told the too will not mix.
By the way Derek (I know you are watching) what an impoverished amount of solder you have. When I get my new camera I will post my store for you to drool over. I am sure you know me by another name.
-
Thank you gentlemen for your support
so here we go again.
Finished the painting, how I ever got the water line to be straight I will never now, I was lucky, that was the trickiest thing I've done so far.
(http://s13.postimage.org/p3xdtrjo3/2012_10_24_168.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p3xdtrjo3/)
Now it's time to start on the boiler, first we have to cut the holes in the mud tubes, I've done this with a 5/16 slot drill on the mill, this way the hole will be vertical
and round!.
(http://s15.postimage.org/xauuedkjr/2012_10_22_149.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xauuedkjr/)
Then I had to build a jig to hold the down tubes .
(http://s10.postimage.org/wgx27cmn9/2012_10_22_151.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wgx27cmn9/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/g2swmxlxj/2012_10_22_152.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g2swmxlxj/)
Now the big moment using B&Q copper brazing rods at £3.48 for 4.
(http://s7.postimage.org/tfjd9864n/2012_10_22_160.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tfjd9864n/)
Looks a bit messy but they all do just after brazing, off to the chemist know for some citric acid to clean them up
then it's make another jig to hold both of these and braze the them into the top 2" tube.
I'll post again when I've done it.
This is a message to the Moderator - would it be possible to change my name back to Kerrsy and reinstate my full mayhemer as I was before the crash
could you also tell me how I can contact you without messing up this thread?
thank you
-
You could send Martin an email
ken
-
That hull of yours looks beautiful Alan, well done mate. :-)) :-)) :-))
-
I fined the citric acid works quicker If the work is plunged as soon as it goes from red to black. I only buy small amounts of citric acid at a time don't want to be suspected of making ilegal ....drugs :police: :police: :police: :police:
-
would vinegar work? (acetic acid), I use citric acid (powder) in tiny amounts to help wholemeal bread rise, but you can buy 100g packs in wholefood shops quite cheaply.
Grendel
-
:o....well hammer [RGY]...with you being an experienced artisan of silver soldering...what mark would you offer kerrsy for his work below?
I was thinking %) of say 9.7 out of 10...what is your say?
Will be very interesting to see the result after her pickiling.......... {-) .......
PS hammer.......I hope you are in good health again :-)).......cause we await your return to the workshop.......as usual.....we are watching :o from afar......Derek
PPS hammer.....I too cannot wait until you get a better camera or ask No 1 son how to use your existing camera >>:-(
-
I think Kerrsy deserves 10 out of 10 Derek you are a hard man to please.
As for me I am OK finished with the hospital, that's the good news. The bad news the remedy is to dangerous at me age so live with it or die with it. But I am still here.
The camera the grand sons used me as a slide , the screen of the camera didn't like it and snapped. Just as well with the crap pictures it took. A poor workman always blames his tools.GEOFF
-
Hi Kerrsy
I must admit I read all the steam topics but sadly my posting's dont reflet this, I tend to rush ahead with my builds and lack the disipline to make a photo record.
Please continue with yours as I do find it very interesting and its nice to see what others are up too.
Regards
Mike
Ps have put up a couple of pic's o my latest build
-
Hi All
Well thank you hammer, I never got 10/10 even when I did my welding exam!
Thank you again for your comments good healthy debate.
Mike (steamshed) I'm the same, I'm only doing this for the members of the forum and I'm lucky I have a camera in my phone.
Greg, couldn't have done it with out you.
Well here they are after 30 mins in Citric acid
(http://s12.postimage.org/ufxqqyg7t/2012_10_25_169.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ufxqqyg7t/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/bjvgkpnfv/2012_10_25_171.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bjvgkpnfv/)
regards
Alan
-
Very neat, I have been lucky enough to cop for some 50% Sulfuric Acid. I dilute a little at a time down to 5%, makes short work of cleaning the job up after soldering.....
-
Lovely work kerrsy. The hull looks really sweet. :-)) :-))
I'm looking forward to seeing you put your steam plant together - boiler making is a bit of a black art to me, and this is getting set to be a good practical insight. Thanks for persevering with us!
-
pettyofficernick, thank you
SailorGreg, This is only the second boiler I've made and the last one was 30 years ago.
I have had a great mentor in ooyah/2 who is an expert on boilers.
I've never made one like this before but it's good fun and if it doesn't work I can do it again with more knowledge
from the mistakes I made.
alan
-
Cut the holes in the main boiler today and fitted the tubes.
Will weld it up Monday .
(http://s11.postimage.org/43bsoim7j/2012_10_26_173.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/43bsoim7j/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/7c61tnzyt/2012_10_26_175.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7c61tnzyt/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/bvrm5lqif/2012_10_26_176.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bvrm5lqif/)
-
I don't keep sulfuric acid, not with grand children around.
-
I don't keep sulfuric acid, not with grand children around.
Hi all, just a quick safety note re sulfuric acid, I store my acid safely and clearly marked with the concentration percentage, and only use it outside. I always wear chemical resistant gloves and goggles when handling and ALWAYS add acid to water and not the other way round. I don't have any grandkids, and if I did, I would use something a little less dramatic than sulfuric acid. Hope this clears up any H+S concerns anyone may have.
Regards,
Nick.
-
For me, the only place for sulfuric acid is in a battery
Citric acid does the job as you can see, and is asafe to use.
-
Well after due trial and tribulations I can definitely recommend the B&Q copper to copper brazing rods.
flowed a treat. Job Done.
Sorry guys web will not let me upload image goes through all the loading but no image
-
That's good to know Alan, thanks for going to the effort so we don't have to (no, you can't be known as Mr. Flash now!!)
Out of interest, how much has the entire amount of solder set you back for this boiler using the brazing rods?
Greg
-
Hi Greg
About 6 rods one pack of four rods plus 2 from another cost £6.75.
That includes adding the small end to the next rod,
-
Thanks Alan, there's no arguing with prices like that.
I don't know what experimentation you have done with them, but perhaps with a small piece you could solder onto copper, let it cool naturally and then try to remelt- it would be interesting to know what it sweats like with no flux and after it's oxidised- silver solder requires a lot more energy to unsweat than it requires to run in the first place.
Greg
-
:-)
-
Thank you Martin for posting the picture
-
Thanks so much George and others for the much wanted info on the yarrow boiler as I have searched far and wide with no real down to earth information on actually building it much appreciated :-))
John
-
Will you be using the copper rod with flux to fix the bushes. Or will you be silver soldering them. Of course the silver has a lower melting point.
-
I really admire Kerrsy skills on welding and would really like to see maybe a video to get some idea of the heat required as I would be terrified that the whole job would disintegrate after all the fabrication ,having said that I would have a go with some practice on scrap bits as it really looks a professional job :-))
John
-
I really admire Kerrsy skills on welding and would really like to see maybe a video to get some idea of the heat required as I would be terrified that the whole job would disintegrate after all the fabrication ,having said that I would have a go with some practice on scrap bits as it really looks a professional job :-))
John
Joihn,
It's a new learning curve for me as I have always used silver solder and never considered copper to copper joint.
Alan has said that it's no more difficult than Silver solder and a big burner as you would use to Silver solder a boiler is required.
In my next boiler I will be trying the copper to copper method as the price of S/solder is now prohibitive in cost due again to the E.U.'s dictum.
So don't be afraid have a go.
George.
-
Intuitively I would think copper to copper would be better than silver because everything becomes as one, whereas with silver it's kind of like glueing it together but maybe at a molecular level? You've got some bottle though, I'll say that!! I'd have been on pins if I tried it. Seeing all those pipes and holes evokes memories of those guys spinning plates on sticks at the London Palladium.
Jerry.
-
Gentlemen it's not that difficult, really. You can heat the copper to cheery red just as you would when you anneal it.
I'm not sure but copper melts somewhere around 1200C and the brazing rods around 750 so plenty of room for error.
Any way for £4.50 and a bit of scrap copper it's worth having a go. :-))
As for the fitting on the top I will experiment with brass brazing (with flux) and copper to see how the brass takes to it.
I can't believe in 2012 we are still path finding !
Look up the Go System range and you will find the Copper rods, Ali Rods and All purpose
http://www.go-system.co.uk/diy-range.html (http://www.go-system.co.uk/diy-range.html)
good luck
alan
-
Hi There, have I missed something? What sort of flux do the copper to copper rods use, or are they pre fluxed?
-
Gentlemen it's not that difficult, really. You can heat the copper to cheery red just as you would when you anneal it.
I'm not sure but copper melts somewhere around 1200C and the brazing rods around 750 so plenty of room for error.
Any way for £4.50 and a bit of scrap copper it's worth having a go. :-))
As for the fitting on the top I will experiment with brass brazing (with flux) and copper to see how the brass takes to it.
I can't believe in 2012 we are still path finding !
Look up the Go System range and you will find the Copper rods, Ali Rods and All purpose
http://www.go-system.co.uk/diy-range.html (http://www.go-system.co.uk/diy-range.html)
good luck
alan
Alan,
I am assuming that by saying the fitting on the top is the bushes to fit safety valve and sight glass.
Don't use brass as the threads which are cut into the brass can be compromised and become very week, a slight over tightening on the fittings can strip the thread.
Use only Cast Gun metal or Phos bronze.
I don't think in this age that we are path finding, S/Solder was quite cheap at 2 pounds for a 1.5mm x 500 mm rod and was the norm for soldering boilers, copper rods were to my knowledge unavailable from our normal suppliers but with S/solder now nearly 8 pounds a rod we are forced to try alternatives and it's good to know that copper rods are available from the likes of B&Q. and your postings are very encouraging.
George.
-
Hi All
Thinking back to my Refrigeration days, copper to copper joints were good with the standard rods , however brass to copper was always silver, brass didnt take very well to copper rods, on normal copper systems we use to test with OFN to around 400 psi which included brass to copper but as previously stated that joint was silver.
Mike
-
I don't know enough about steam to make a comment, other than your work looks first class. I follow a lot of threads but refrain from making stupid comments unless I can add something constructive to the build. I just found your thread & will now follow it to its conclusion, so keep up the good work, more are watching than you might think, Mick B.
-
Kerrsy, just to prove the point, your thread has been read nearly 2800 times, I would have to say that is a whole lot of people interested in your build, keep it going, & thanks, Mick B.
-
Dont feel disheartened kerrsy if people dont reply too much. People read them. I have just recently got into steam and i hope one day i can build a boiler as awesome as that!! Until i know what im talking about ill shut up and learn. :-))
-
Thank you all for your comments and words of support.
Wow I've reached Canada, not far from Alaska !
Nick the rods come coated, no flux required.
Mick B. when I was a training instructor I used to tell my students that the only stupid question was the one you didn't ask.
all comments are valid unless they are rude or derogatory so please don't be put off commenting or asking questions that's what we are here for. [size=78%] [/size]
Yes your absolutely right George I will be using phosphor bronze although I could put a hellicoil insert in a brass one!
It will be interesting how that is brazed on but I think if all else fails I could afford one stick of silver solder as a proven alternative.
I'm having a bit of trouble since the web was upgraded in that I can't upload pictures using the upload section of the reply post.
So you will have to wait until this is fixed before I can post more pics
best wishes
Alan
-
I used solid copper turned and threaded bushes in my first boiler with no problems is this considered ok in other parts of the world ?as I know is ok in Aus model boiler rules
John
-
It is nice to see you back posting Alan. If you are using silver solder for the first time, two things to watch for ( among others ) have your heat correct at all times, this only comes with practice, so practice first. The #2 thing is spotless clean ( goes for most jobs & often neglected ) You will be amazed how easy it is if you keep these in mind as you work & dont rush, you are supposed to be having fun ,remember.Finally yes we are not too far from Alaska, I have been to the panhandle 6 times photographing Grizzly bears when they come into the rivers for the salmon runs & managed to drive all 2,100 Km's in one go of 20 hours on one occasion. In one 3 hour stretch we never saw another vehicle or person on the road. ( approx 300Km ). Mick B.
-
Hi Mick B
What a wonderful land it must be, I can't imagine driving for 3 hrs and not seeing any one!
Yes I've been using silver solder for about 50 years it's only the expense that leads me to look else ware, but It was nice of you post advice.
alan
-
John, good question, perhaps are more experienced boiler builders could comment?
alan
-
Alan & John,
There is nothing in the blue book code of practice in building model boilers in the U.K. that says you must not use copper as boiler bushes nor does it say that you can't use brass..
It does say Quote, " During construction of a boiler , the screw threads in mounting bushes can be burnt/scorched. Ensure that screw threads and their mounts are of adequate depth to maintain strength " end quote.
I have had boilers of unknown construction or vintage presented to me for testing, one with brass bushes and one with copper bushes.
The brass one had so little thread left that the safety valve I think would have let go before the valve lifted.
I refused a test.
The copper one was similar due to excessive tightening and had P.T.FE. tape wrapped around the valve to try and get a seal.
To date I have never had any problem with bushes made from Gun metal or Phos bronze so on experience alone I would never use copper or brass.
If I was to use brass or copper I would solder them in and tap them after the heating process was completed to give a good depth and clean thread, hope that this answers your questions.
Here is a pic of a Yarrow boiler that I built, I post this as a test to see if the new forum page will allow me to post pics.
George.
-
I have not seen any boilers in my part of the world with copper bushes. But I know of no reason why they could not be used. The only point is copper isn't the best metal for holding a thread. I have found silver solder flux ( tenacity or silver flow) will work with bronze, brass & copper. Posted this before I had seen your post George. So modified it . sorry no photo.
-
Alan,
Like you I can't post pics, forum tells me that the file is too big but I don't see a way to change the file size.
George.
-
Just posted a photo. I reduce the size by open it in paint reduce it & save with a surfix (a) so retaining the original.
-
That's the way to do it!
-
That's the way to do it!
Jerry,
Sorry not with a MAC.
George
-
Hi George, when I use the upper add photos button I noticed that the resize title is not underlined and even though I've been useing that facility always it now says invalid file. So I tried the bottom attachments button and that said file too large so I resized in paint and and low and behold it worked. I don't like doing it this way cos it means I need a resized for uploads file in my pictures but needs must. I hope it will return to normal soon. I don't have a mac but do have an iPhone but when I downloaded ios5 my pics got all mixed up and I haven't got round to sorting them out. If I was starting again I'd certainly choose a mac. You live and learn right?
Jerry.
-
Hi George, when I use the upper add photos button I noticed that the resize title is not underlined and even though I've been useing that facility always it now says invalid file. So I tried the bottom attachments button and that said file too large so I resized in paint and and low and behold it worked. I don't like doing it this way cos it means I need a resized for uploads file in my pictures but needs must. I hope it will return to normal soon. I don't have a mac but do have an iPhone but when I downloaded ios5 my pics got all mixed up and I haven't got round to sorting them out. If I was starting again I'd certainly choose a mac. You live and learn right?
Jerry.
Thanks Jerry,
I have sent P.M. to Martin, so I shall wait and see what Martin has to say and if he can help.
When I go to the bottom ATTACHMENTS and OTHER OPTIONS the browser box comes up and when I put in a picture of my Yarrow boiler up comes where the pic is from, normally I would just click on the post button and Bob's your uncle , although in this day and age he might be my auntie.
but when I do this it tells me that the file is too big and 161kb is the max but there is no place to change it.
George.
-
First of all thank you George an excellent and informed answer to our question.
Now to my biggest bug, this bit about not being able to post pictures as we did before.
Good luck with your post to him George, he seems to ignore me but have been nagging him a bit.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11159.855 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11159.855)
If all those who can't post pictures tell the admin. (Martin) on the link above, he may see that it's not just me that want's it back the way it was.
That's the trouble with us oldies! we don't like change.
-
Kerrsy......a little off thread...however if you go back & review...you will always find good comment from [Jerry C] & [Mick-patternmaker] :-))
The postings ...... :o typically by these members are the learning curves to us all.......your Alaska build also has the potential to be such a build
Derek
-
Derek, cheque in the post!
-
Thank you Derek
I don't think I'm in the same league as those guys but I really appreciate you saying so and from half way round the world!
I do hope they sort out the problems with the website soon as the format of this site is great.
alan
-
I too have been watching the project and am fascinated at the time and effort you have put in to this, way beyond my present capabilities and tooling.
Grendel
-
Kerrsy/Jerry & all ...again a little off topic
I am sure we all agree....it's a generational thing
I am a 1/2 baked 60+ year old engineer & can do most things reasonably well
My father @ 80 years was still a brillant engineer & craftsman... I will never be as talanted as he was
My father said that his father was the most brillant engineers welder & craftsman that he had ever seen
So keeping this on thread I understand my grandfather built a few planked rowing boats........
It's a generational thing........I can only aspire to be a better craftsman in the future...... Derek :-))
Just thinking Kerrsy....you & my dad [Max] would have got on like a house on fire {-) .....prior to his retirement he was the Senior Welding Inspector for the Australian Iron & Steel group on OZ.......
-
Hi Derek
What a lovely comment, thank you
I nearly went to aussy in the 60's we may even have met!
It,s great that it runs in your family.
Do have a build log ?
Alan
-
You see Kerrsy all your thread needed was a little boost to have your talent & patience showcased for us all to see, keep up the good work, Mick B.
-
Kerrsy....I have a build..... drew the plans & commenced the build in November 2000 :(( ...but no build log
Plank on frame hull ...with most brass bits purchased ....all the wood & most of the steam tubes will be mine....
I have no access to [adequate sized] machinery >>:-( <*<
It is my retirement project....... :-)) .....Derek
-
Hi Derek
The machinery looks great, I'd love to see more pictures of the actual boat and some details about what engine that is and why it's on the side.
Do you have enough to start a log? even if you just publish pictures of your boat I'm sure we would all like to see it.
Cheers, Alan
-
Hi Derek what projects and machinery do you refer to
John
-
Hi Derek what projects and machinery do you refer to
John
Look's to me like Derek's engine is configured to run as a paddle engine. :-)) :-)) :-))
-
Hi all
Just got to grips with this pain in the A"£$% system that we now have to go through to post pictures
Just lined a few thing up to see the layout, ignore the paint job that's work in progress.
Had to use a flexible coupling to line up the shaft, as in the original drawing the Prop shaf was going to line up with a D10.
The TVR being smaller, I've had to raise it up, but it is much more in keeping with the scale of the original.
My lack of boat knowledge and perspective, not knowing this engine has messed me up a bit but It's all worked out for the best in the end.
I don't normally do this but I have had such good service and it is such a good website for finding what pulley and what belt for a given centre that i must recommend
http://www.motionco.co.uk/pulleys-belts-c-25.html
You can mix and match Pulley and Belt and it will show you what centres you will end up with. Great.
So looks like it will all fit in the end.
(http://s5.postimage.org/8wz069fer/Engine_layout.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8wz069fer/)
-
Kerrsy.....the concept drive is fundamentally OK.... >:-o but you could consider an additional single bearing element to provent whip lash/vibration or and wear between the engine & the shaft coupling...from your image this distance appears to be approx 50 mm?
Idealily the bearing could be installed mid position between the outboard pinion on the lower drive shaft @ the engine end & the universal coupling
Other driveline builders may have an alternate thought :}
So as not to get too far off thread...yes my steam engine is a 9cc Saito Y2DR horizontal paddler.......& yes the retirement project .....Derek
-
Hi Derek
thanks for the advice but what I didn't show was the two bearing housings under the engine.
These are 4 mm ball bearings in aluminium blocks that fit onto the shaft and hold it steady.
The shaft is 150mm long and at 4mm realy stiff
Thanks anyway
cheers alan
-
Alan,
It looks great and gives you a chance to play with different pulley ratios to increase or decrease prop speed.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
Thank you Gerald
That's a good point but I couldn't go any bigger with the bottom one, It leaves options though
regards, alan
-
Hi Alan
I lost your thread in the great meltdown and my previous posts appear as Mkenzig for some reason. Anyway I have reread it all and there's lots for people like me (steam curious) to think about. So I probably won't say much but I will certainly enjoy the discussion :-))
Dave
-
That rigidity is good Kerrsy...... :-)) ....the toothed belt & pulleys will be the silent elements in the total drive assembly, but you are combining 19th century steam with 21st century components >>:-(
You could always fabricate a shim brass plate box to hide the pulleys & belt......& then maintain the visual aura of that old time steam look %) ....
Bernhard BB......uses this method to hide or disguise components to great effect in his open hulled model vessels.........Derek
-
Dave, glad your back and please fell free to comment.
Derek, yes it is good to preserve the look of an old boat but in this instance I'm replicating a working steam ship on the Thames in the 21st cent.
and it has to include modern mods. I can't make an exact replica but can make it as authentic as it is now.
I'm afraid I'm not a purist, I was the same when I used to rebuild old 60's motor bikes.
I would embrace modern technology and fit electronic ignition I could then ride my bikes with out the tool kit I used to have to carry in my leathers during the 60's.
Concourse is great in preservation and I applaud those who can spend the time getting every nut and bolt authentic but I'm sorry that's not me.
Below are some pictures of Alaska's engine room to explain.
best wishes, Alan
(http://s5.postimage.org/nolsy08qr/DSC02558.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nolsy08qr/)
(http://s5.postimage.org/n0cyf2a0z/DSC02574.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n0cyf2a0z/)[size=78%] [/size]
-
mmmmmmm :(( . not sure if Her Majesty whilst riding on Alaska recently ....looked down & said........ {-) "thats a nice toothed timing belt driving the Prestolite alternator"
Bearing in mind I do understand that your Monarch....VR2 was a motor mechanic during the latter part of WW11 :-)) ....Derek
-
The asthetics side apart have you tried the hull in water yet with all mechanicals? maybe I am wrong but looks like a stability problem on the horizon perhaps a well for the engine to lower cog can't wait to see the yarrow boiler in action :-))
John
-
John
No not yet but with the batteries and other equip the weight[size=78%] will be low down[/size]
If not it can sit on the lovely stand I made for it. {-)
-
Yes I'm still here but with all the A level projects going on I've been a bit busy
I have had a bit of time to make the end caps and will fit them shortly
(http://s14.postimage.org/f09v3vnn1/2012_12_12_214.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f09v3vnn1/)
Roll on the warmer weather so I can get back in the Garage.
-
Yes I'm still here but with all the A level projects going on I've been a bit busy
I have had a bit of time to make the end caps and will fit them shortly
(http://s14.postimage.org/f09v3vnn1/2012_12_12_214.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f09v3vnn1/)
Roll on the warmer weather so I can get back in the Garage.
C'mon Alan,
With all of this snow and you being snowed in the heat from your torch should warm up the garage, so get cracking with that Yarrow Boiler, this is ideal weather for boiler making.
George.
-
Roll on the warmer weather so I can get back in the Garage.
At your age summer should be exclusively reserved for erhem active pursuits 8) :kiss:
Wrap up well and get in the garage.
Dave
-
Thank you Gentlemen for your warm wishes
I have in actual fact been using the time to produce more scale drawings of the boat.
I'm very lucky that the owner allows me to go aboard and take pictures and measurements.
It does mean a trip to Marlow but that's the price you have to bear!!
I've made a scale model of the cabin in cardboard and it seems to fit
(http://s5.postimage.org/jv4ft5dc3/2013_01_22_296.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jv4ft5dc3/)
The next step is to make it out of Teak, I've managed to buy a sheet from the timber merchant at a cost of £48.00
It is 7' long by 8" wide and 3/8" thick. I'm hoping to be able to cut it down the middle to give me 2 sheet of 1/8" thickness
I'll let you know how I get on
Alan
-
Goodness Kersey..... >>:-( this is a tall order.... "It is 7' long by 8" wide and 3/8" thick. I'm hoping to be able to cut it down the middle to give me 2 sheet of 1/8" thickness"
Unless you have some industrial wood working machinary at your home workshop.........I would be inclinded to ask a timber miller to section it for you %) ....& even they may suggest cutting the plank in 1/2 [3' 6"] x two..........Derek
-
Hi Derek
I should explain that I have a part time job as a technician at a school and they have all the machinery I require.
It's one of the reasons I'm still working, but If I do fail we have a tame wood mill next door.
Life don't get better that that.
Alan
-
It sounds like you have an ideal setup, wish I could find one like that.
Regards,
Gerald.
Hi Derek
I should explain that I have a part time job as a technician at a school and they have all the machinery I require.
It's one of the reasons I'm still working, but If I do fail we have a tame wood mill next door.
Life don't get better that that.
Alan
-
Hi all
Just to let you know I'm still here and have just got back to the model after a long lay off.
I've published a video of the water control system for my boiler if any one is interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai3-mqegRUc
-
Great progress Kerrsy :-))........I see you are using a 9 volt supply for your boiler feed pump........what sort of volume do you get against the boiler pressure?
I found the as supplied Microcosm DC motor/gearbox very noisy so replaced it with a similar but quieter drive....abet possibly too slow @ 70 RPM in 12volt...have also mounted a 4 mm diameter 300 series stainless ZZ bearing in a plummer block on the output shaft to help with alignment strain <*<
This is an auxiliary is the auxiliary, as I have mounted another Microcosm pump on the paddle shaft axis and am estimating it will operate at approx. 120 to 150 RPM
Would be most interested to see your progress with this............Derek
-
Hi Derek
It never ceases to amaze me the ingenuity of how to put a pump in a boat or engine.
Fantastic design Derek, congratulations.
I'm in the early stages of setting up the motor and just put a 9v battery on it as I came to hand ! %)
I did find that it was not enough to feed at a constant so will experiment with higher voltage
but max for the circuit board is 12v that should, according to the spec from Microcosm, give me 12V No-load speed 400 rpm torque 2KG.CM
I'm not an electrician and don't know if I can up the voltage more than 12v without damaging the components?
maybe some one could tell me if I sent them the spec?
Cheers - Alan
-
Hi Alan,
I've just watched your video and it seemed to me you are "pushing the envelope" with that little 9V battery - not because of its volts but because those wee fellas are not intended to provide a lot of current (Amps)
Ignoring my own advice, I once had a very similar set-up; up the volts to overcome the motor struggling, and upped it again and let all the Magic Smoke out of the motor. And it's damned near impossible to replace the motor in those geared units.
Use a better battery, one that CAN supply some current, like the proverbial Lead Acid, at 12V and the motor may well do the trick for you.
Good Luck,
Geoff
Thailand
-
Kerrsy....... Microcosm advertise the M11 boiler feed pump as from 3 to 24 V DC........................
Any mention of a torque value/volt is literally meaningless as we are after displacement per/rev/current draw
I have broached the question with Jin without answer.......Derek
"Microcosm M11 Electric Steam boiler feed pump
Planetary reduction gearbox is a high-grade structure for two deceleration, the first stage sun gear is nylon wheel, reducing noise with the other gears are all steel gears in the gearbox are lubricants. Planetary gear structure is the advantage of Compact, small backlash, high accuracy, high transfer efficiency, long life, rated output torque.
Planetary gearbox gear motor, coil resistance 8 ohms.
Motor shaft diameter 24MM 55MM long milling flat 4MM D-shaped shaft length 16MM"
-
Hi Derek
It's not the pump motor I'm worried about it's the control board and the components.
Alan
-
Hi Geof
thank you for your advice.
you are of quite right, I will have to do some experimenting with the motor.
According to the spec it can take 24v but it's the amps I need for the power.
I'll have to look at taking the power of the servo battery possibly.
I could make my own with this motor and fit a bigger pump.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-geared-motors/0336337/?searchTerm=336-337&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3333362D33333726
But we do have to remember I'm only running at 30 p.s.i. Max.
This video shows the boiler steamed up at very low pressure and the motor running
and yes I forgot to tighten up the steam pipe. oops
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDMeOHyXm64&feature=youtu.be
It's early days with lots to try out.
cheers
Alan
-
What a lot of people forget is, the area of the inlet has to be divided into one square inch & the answer divided into the boiler pressure (in your case) 30 pounds. Any thing over this will put water into the boiler. So no where near 30lbs.
-
What a lot of people forget is, the area of the inlet has to be divided into one square inch & the answer divided into the boiler pressure (in your case) 30 pounds. Any thing over this will put water into the boiler. So no where near 30lbs.
I do not follow your math or logic.If the boiler is at 30psi the pump must generate a pressure greater then 30psi to force any water into the boil...
Regards,,
Gerald.
-
Yes the pump will need to produce more than 30 pounds per square inch. If the face of the piston in the pump is one square inch, plus 30 pounds will be required to push the piston. If the piston is 2square inches the force required will be plus 60 pounds. So if the piston is a half square inch divide by 4, only plus 7.5 pounds will be sufficient. NOT 30 POUNDS. Simple's
-
Well carry on chaps but you lost me.
Thanks for the comments
Alan
-
Oh Dear, FORCE and Pressure.
-
Yes the pump will need to produce more than 30 pounds per square inch. If the face of the piston in the pump is one square inch, plus 30 pounds will be required to push the piston. If the piston is 2square inches the force required will be plus 60 pounds. So if the piston is a half square inch divide by 4, only plus 7.5 pounds will be sufficient. NOT 30 POUNDS. Simple's
Right I follow it now the force required to drive the pump does not have to be 30IBS but depends on the pump piston area.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
why not hook the pump up to the engine you will loose very little power and a lot simpler and authentic, I have just done this with a 5/8 bore single cylinder engine and 1/8th bore pump works beautifully plenty power at 30 psi O0
Cheers
John
-
Sorry 3/16th bore pump
-
Thanks John
Yes I could have as George (ooyah) make them but as you can see from my blog I like to be different
it's a trait that causes me pain but does make me learn new skills.
Thanks for the comments
cheers
Alan
-
All Sorted
I've linked to 9v batteries together, this gives me 19.3 volts (don't ask two 9 to me is 18!)
any way pumps running amuck and pumping like a gooden.
Alan
-
Well things are improving, I know have remote control of forward and reverse.
The pump works fine on the faster speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cHPuBgUlPE&feature=youtu.be
here is an inside view
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVx2CZ5HM80&feature=youtu.be
Just got to fit a servo to the main steam valve and we are away !!
Alan
-
Well things are improving, I know have remote control of forward and reverse.
The pump works fine on the faster speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cHPuBgUlPE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cHPuBgUlPE&feature=youtu.be)
here is an inside view
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVx2CZ5HM80&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVx2CZ5HM80&feature=youtu.be)
Just got to fit a servo to the main steam valve and we are away !!
Alan
Alan , what fine job of the Yarrow boiler and casing, very good for an old metal basher. !!!!
Where is the funnel on the casing ?
I really look forward to you installing the steam plant in ALASKA !!!
Keep up posting , perhaps with winter approaching it will keep you of the Golf course and complete your build.
Well done mate.
George.
-
Thank you George
The funnel will be my next job
cheers
Alan
-
Thank you George
The funnel will be my next job
cheers
Alan
Alan,
Credit where it's due , how about another pic of the boat ALASKA to save us trolling back to find it.
I just love that little Yarrow boiler and by the look of the burner flame you still have plenty heat left if you turn it up.
George.
-
Thank you George
Yes It boils quicker than my Kettle !
Not much done on the boat front as I've been playing with the engine but hopfully
there should be photos below.
cheers
Alan
-
Hi all
Just a few Updates on Alaska's progress
Georges burner working at low rate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-vLtrf1HBI&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-vLtrf1HBI&feature=youtu.be)
I'm sure someone has done this before but I couldent find so this my way of remotly controling
the reversing lever of a TVR. Ignor the wooden block, will make a nice Ali one later.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex-ixa-js_Q&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex-ixa-js_Q&feature=youtu.be)
Finally got the whole thing running under remote control, Water level pump running with level sensor,
Main Steam valve with servo & reversing servo under the expert control of my wife.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMm0Itppavc&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMm0Itppavc&feature=youtu.be)
A few picture of progress
1. She Floats !
2. Alaska in her winter quarters (the dinning room)
3. finding out to work with wood and make a cabin.
4. Cabin windows slide, !!
-
any tips for cutting out window holes?
-
Hello!
I am following this post with a great interest. :-))
The work is wonderfull and the steam plant performance is impressive according to its size.
Thanks Kerssy to share your construction.
Regards. :-)
-
Thank you KBIO
your comments are much appreciated.
Hi Xrad, yes but you need to have a friend in a school that has a laser cutter !
-
Thank you KBIO
your comments are much appreciated.
Hi Xrad, yes but you need to have a friend in a school that has a laser cutter !
Kerrsy,
What a nice compact little steam plant and a truly beautiful model build.
I bet that you are glad you went for the Yarrow boiler and the TVR to keep the C.G. down
Do you think that the dia of the funnel is big enough, it looks rather small, is that to be in scale with the funnel on the full size boat.
I look forward to the day you get it out on the water ,rather than the bath, must be a bit of a squeeze having a bath with the boat in it.
George.
-
Hi George
Yes I'm very pleased I went for a yarrow, thank you.
Yes the funnel is only a cover as the proper funnel is false and fits over the engine cover, big white thing !!
I'm afraid a bath isn't big enough, not mine any way that's why I had to buy the paddling pool from asda
Good £10.00 spent as my grand children used it all summer.
Just to remind you all of the real thing
-
Opp's must have hiccuped {:-{
-
Hi looking great what timber are you using for the cabin is it mahogany and will you use glass for the windows,regards Allan
-
Opp's must have hiccuped {:-{
Can't have too much of a good thing! Lovely build Kerrsy, one of those that will, I suspect, be indistinguishable from the real thing when photographed in its element. :-))
Greg
-
Hi Allan
The windows are already glassed with 1.5mm acrylic, and the wood I used is spruce, it's coated with Teak stained varnish.
Thank you for your comments,
Regards
Alan
Thank you Greg, I think it may look o.k. from afar but I'm no chippy.
can't get the hang of not being able to weld up your mistakes.
You would amazed at how many times I've made this and taken it apart because I found a better way to do it or forgotten to put something in.
Anyway that's scratch build without detailed drawings.
When it's finished I will have a set of detailed drawings and how to make instructions, most of which is on this blog. :-))
Regards
Alan
-
Makes sense. Thanks Kerrsey
-
Very impressed with the Alaska lettering ,did you have this printed commercially?
cheers
John
-
Hi John
Thank you, the name was probably one of the most difficult things to reproduce.
First I had to take a photo and scale it to 1/12.
I had to trace the shadow and the letter separately, I had to cut them out separately from Gold & Red self adhesive vinyl
and lay one on top of the other.
Here's a picture of the process.
-
Thanks for the valuable info as I am sure will be helpful to many on this forum I think nothing looks better than well made scale lettering
Cheers
John
-
Well it's getting warmer in the garage so time to do a bit.
I had a trip around Wadworth brewery in Devizes and met the sigh writers that paint the pub signs, one kind chap offered to do the scroll work on my boat.
-
Really chuffed with outcome. now it looks more like the original.
I know a little man in china who makes motorized water pumps, but the pump on it was to small and would not pump against the head.
So modified it to take a bigger pump that will.
I'm going to make a bigger cam as well so to increase the stroke.
With this set up I can adjust the position of the pump as well.
-
Really like your letters are they adhesive stickers and do you have to cut out the shapes ?
Cheers
John
-
Bonjour Kerry,
Beautiful launch indeed, and you say you find a water pump in China. To make my own experience and diversify my collection, I am looking for a China steam manufacturer and I would greatly appreciate if you could share with us/me a link :-))
For reasons I do not understand, French country is not allowed to buy everywhere on eBay... >>:-(
-
Thank you for your comments
here is the link on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M11-Electric-Steam-boiler-feed-pump-M8-hand-feed-pump-2-set-/151205398295?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23348b4717
this will give you all you need
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/microcosmengine?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
and this is a general list
http://www.auctiva.com/stores/viewstore2.aspx?id=1784929&siteid=0&rlid=2100
Hope this help
Best wishes
Alan
-
Re bonjour Alan,
Thanks a lot for your quick answer !
As "usual" >>:-( I am not allowed to open the two first links, but the last one seems OK ==> I will look at it accurately and will share with you if I deal with them.
-
I thought you where joking when you said you can't use eBay in France, so sorry.
could you tell me why?
-
I have no idea about this discrimination. It is not a global outlawry because I may see a lot of articles on UK eBay ==> As I only buy on eBay, and rarely, I just imagine that there is somewhere a parameter which allows the seller to decide if he wished selling inside his country (?) only in a selection of countries (?)
Sorry to pollute your topic on your wonderful launch. About her, I have a little concern : where is the whistle ?
I like pricking the good model makers with this request, as I consider this accessory as one of the the best representations of our passion for steam.
Nobody is perfect ;)
-
I'm afraid that will be fitted later.
-
Well I've made the water tank and fitted the pump
It works great on test so will put the lid on and pipe it to the boiler.
-
Here is the pump working
https://youtu.be/bN4JsaMc-0Y
At present it's running at 18v this may be to fast, I can half the speed by taking one battery off.
More experimentation required but it's all good fun.
-
Nice job and it will certainly slow down with maybe 60 psi to push against good luck :-))
Cheers
John
-
When I built the plant for S L Wear I started out with the commonly available hand pump modified and driven by a servo converted to a motor. This ran off the receiver pack (4.8V) and it worked very well on the bench. Then George made me an engine driven pump which I preferred. If the diameter of the piston is kept small, to vary the delivery rate you can alter either the stroke or the rpm. Either way the pump needs very little power to push against 60psi. Fine tune or vary delivery by controlling the by-pass valve.
Looking really good.
Jerry.
-
Thank you John & Jerry for your comments and advice all duly noted.
The reason I changed the pump was because the old one could not pump against 5 psi
so i'm sure one from a railway engine should do the trick.
That's about as scientific as I get, although I did come top of the class in maths once !!
Won't be long until a test run.
alan
-
That's it the whole power plant is up and running an auto fill for the boiler is working well.
Just need to find a nice stretch of water to launch her before the final fit.
The local canal looks good.
Here is a video of the completed plant running.
https://youtu.be/GW0kAwkJDVU
regards
Alan
-
Alan,
You have made a wonderful model of ALASKA, well done.
The noise on the Vid at 1.25 mins, is that the pump motor that is clattering away, if so is there any way to cut down the noise.
I look forward to your first trials in the canal, remember that with such a big prop you will not use so much steam, on the bench running free the steam is not working and is just rushing thro' the engine.
The finish on your model is superbe.
George.
-
Hi George, good to hear from you.
Thank you for your comments they are appreciated
Yes it is the pump but I've cured that, the pipe work was touching the bulk head that amplified the sound.
I have also found that I only need one battery and half the revs as the pump is very efficient.
Best wishes
Alan
-
Well the planking has finally started, I've decided to make the whole deck removable just in case !!
Now that brings me to the Little Yellow thing on the bow. (it should be gold but no paint yet)
Is there any one who is conversant enough in 3D drawing to be able to produce a 3D printed copy of the Cormorant
The next thing I can't do is make a Ships Wheel, to fiddly for these old fingers. It is 80mm in total diameter
If anyone can help me out with either of these problems I would be very grateful and of i'm willing to pay.
Alan
-
Well steam trials are under way, so far I've run it for 3o mins and water and gas lasted.
Just got the seats and wheel to fit and she will be nearly ready
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=titdyMZwS9M&feature=youtu.be
[size=78%]Alan[/size]
-
Hi Alan,
She sits very well on the water and it's a credit to your skills as a boat builder, she's an absolute beauty.
How are you getting on for the Cormorant on the bow and a stearing wheel.
I bet that you are dieing to get her on the local lake to see how she prforms.
Well done
George.
-
Hi George
Good to hear from you, No luck with the bird yet but a friend of mine in Dubai may be able to do the wheel.
I am, can't wait I've only just got the steam plant working properly, I didn't know how to set up the burner you made for me
but managed to get a sheet that explains about the blue flames and the rich or week air.
I've learnt so much building this boat it's been and education.
and I've made some good friends that I've never meet.
I thought your making of the Stuart Turner engine was just superb, well done.
Thanks for the reply
Alan
-
:-)) :-)) :-)) ohh yes looking great
-
Thank you Bernhard :-)
-
:-)) :-)) :-)) ohh yes looking great
Praise doesn't come much higher than Bernhard's seal of approval
-
:-) Hello!
A beautifull work on such a launch! :-))
Praise doesn't come much higher than Bernhard's seal of approval
DEFINITLY! O0
-
Thank you all for your comments
Just thought I'd bring you up to speed on two great lads that are helping me on the Cormorant
This is on the "Wants, Swaps & FREE! Section of the Forum
I asked if anyone could help me with the creation of a 3D cormorant for the from of the boat at this is what they came up with
Isn't it fantastic ! This forum is the best thing since sliced bread and model boats.
( repaginated - Admin )
-
Alan.
The cormorant will add that extra bit to an already great build, well done.
George.
-
YES :-))
-
Thank you all
and thank you Admin, that looks better
-
Just a thankyou for posting your build, it has made the last couple of days most enjoyable.
Thanks colin
-
Thank you Colin
I'm glad you liked it.
Alan
-
Hi Allan thanks for sharing your very interesting build and culminating into a beautiful model we are sure you are very proud of ,also of great interest for me is the yarrow boiler and perhaps I have missed some aspects of the boiler build would you mind letting me know what sizes of tube and piping plus the overall size
Cheers
John
-
Hi John
The boiler is straight out of KN Harris boiler book. page 166
I can't post a picture due to copyright but the book is freely available, just type it in google.
The only mod I made was the steam take of, don't use the tube make an outlet at the top.
The size will depend on what you are planning to put it in.
I would suggest that you make it as big as you can as I've had to modify mine quite a few times to get it to hold steam.
Hope this helps
Alan
-
Thanks for the prompt reply Mike can you tell me what modifications you made to hold steam and what pressure can it maintain with the engine running as I intend to replace the boiler in my 5ft long ferry which has a similar spec to the tvra graham engine
Cheers
John
-
Hi John
Do you mean Mike ? or me Alan
-
Sorry Alan yes one of my off days again
Cheers
John
-
O.k. John
It holds about 90 p.s.i. which is about 80 p.s.i. more than the engine needs.
The mods I've made are to put a water coil inside the engine and as much heat as you can fit.
You can just see the coils in the background.
The burner was made for me by ooyah/2 (George) and is about 4" long and about 1" wide.
but as I say the bigger the better, you can always turn it down!
cheers, Alan
-
Hi Alan than you for your very helpful info so now this project is next on my list
Cheers
John
-
No Problem
Don't forget to show us how you got on.
Alan
-
Spotted at Warwick at the weekend! - https://youtu.be/ME8yWqIWUjY?t=21m14s
-
Ha Ha Ha Martin you stole my thunder
Just to explain, the guys is the 3d department of our wonderful website drew the cormorant for me that goes under the bow spit
I got a friend in Dubai to print it for me so fitted it quickly for the show
I had the pictures to put up when yours cam through
But a great Job done by all and I think it looks great
Did you notice the beak was broken !!! one of the helpers pinched it against the mast so a repair job already.
One of the 3d guys has actually printed the bird on his machine at home so maybe no need for a spare
Thanks again to the 3d guys
I've also made a mod to the boiler supply valve.
I've moved it from the back of the boiler as it was getting too hot.
This set up is a lot better and controls lovely.
O and Martin, there is only one Alaska but thank you for filming the club display, the members where chuffed.
[/size]Regards to all Alan
-
Martin
Have you taken the video down
the link says it's private ??
-
Martin
Have you taken the video down
the link says it's private ??
Back up now! :-) - https://youtu.be/ME8yWqIWUjY?t=21m14s (https://youtu.be/ME8yWqIWUjY?t=21m14s)
( Replaced the audio track )
-
Thank you Martin
That's great
-
Hi Alan,
I saw the vidio from Martin earlier, you model is truely magnificent and an inspiration for others to emulate.
I have recently purchased a Deans Marine Thames Launch "Helen" so over the winter I shall have a go at building my second model boat ever.
The engine, a Stuart "V" twin, has already been made so a boiler is next.
I don't know if I will have the patience to build somewhere anything like yours but hopefully it will sail and the paint doesn't run.
George.
-
Thank you George and what a lovely little engine
It's great that your going to make another boat, just think of all that sanding !!
No seriously it will be great.
I hope your health is going o.k.
It was such a shame that some Muppet broke the beak off the cormorant
my wife couldn't believe I was so calm about it but as I said he was 85
and did not do it on purpose, I don't think he realised he'd done it, so I didn't tell him.
Alan
-
Hi all and a Happy new year
I've had a rush of blood and started on the passenger seat at the front, opp's Bow !
Also found a very nice technician at the local school who made me a steering wheel.
This will be great for a template but I think I will have to try and make one, Unless there is an expert out there who can make it for me?
-
Hi Kerrsy what kind of steering wheel do you want, RB Models make different sizes both in wood & in brass. You have to put them together as they are a kit, not so easy to assemble but are quite nice when put together. Have a look it might be just what you are looking for. Mick B.
-
Hi Mick
Thank you for the info, I looked at RB models but all there stuff is too small.
The diameter of the wheel is 85mm.
But thank you any way
Alan
-
Hi All
Just thought I'd show you that it did work and she sails brilliantly
[size=78%]https://youtu.be/3ayUfGv0nEk
Thanks again for all your help
Regards
Alan
(https://youtu.be/3ayUfGv0nEk)
-
Beautiful! She has a fair turn of speed as well. A real greyhound of the water. You must be very happy with her. :-))
Greg
-
Thank you Greg
Yes I was surprised how fast she was, The water tank and auto feed system worked well and still had half a tank when she ran out of gas after half an hour of steaming
The gas tank was only about half full so I could get at least an hours sailing from one fill.
I must confess to being a little emotional as of she went around the lake on her maiden voyage after lots of trials.
I have made the canopy for her but this will be for non windy days.
The pictures shows her with a paper template but the frame is made.
thanks again
Alan
-
Yes, great result Alan, it's been a long haul but worth it in the end , a truly beautiful model , sits well steams well.
Your little Yarrow boiler certainly produces enough steam to keep her going, I bet you have to keep that burner very low which will help immensly with steaming time.
I will phone you soon.
George
-
Alan she looks great on the water. Just to refresh my gray cells I reread this thread from the start again, a fantastic build.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
Thank you Gerald
I appreciate that
Alan
-
I've a few remarks about not having a whistle and they are right but I've no knowledge in that field
I found one in America for $35 but it's $49 to post !!
Can anybody help me with plans or how to make a whistle that looks like the picture below
Thank you
-
The problem with whistles is they do not scale well, if operated by steam at scale size all the dogs around would be the only ones to hear it. You would have to conceal a larger one out of site to get a good sound, or record the real one and play it on a sound system.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
That's probably good advice and I was thinking it would be waist of steam
-
Bonjour Alan,
I confess, I am a huge fan of the steam whistle and all my boats have one ;)
In France they are also awfully expensive. Personnaly speaking, I prefer buying JMC ones https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA-D4mQ3I9g (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA-D4mQ3I9g) (about 60,00 €) or Ludger Kiefler ones : http://www.dampfmodellbau-keifler.de/ (http://www.dampfmodellbau-keifler.de/) (idem) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ba6h9oHJ_H0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ba6h9oHJ_H0)
Here is an example of plan, Jacques CLABAUX is a very famous steam passionate in France :
http://www.vapeuretmodelesavapeur.com/sifflet/index.html (http://www.vapeuretmodelesavapeur.com/sifflet/index.html)
Yes, they are out of scale, expensive, do not sound like ream ones, but they represent steam, especially when I am asked "where is the electric engine?" ...
A friend tried an electric one with a +/- 10 Watt amplifier... Outside, we could not hear it <:(
-
Hi Rhanrane
Loved the whistle in the first link, the JMC one.
I typed in google "JMC steam whistle" and found out it's a beer in Canada.
I'm afraid a bit got lost in translation.
I did translate the drawing, very clever but I need it to look more like the original.
If you know where I can get one of the JMC whistles in English i would be grateful.
Alan
-
Bonjour Alan,
Here is JMC site, in France steam = vapeur ==> http://jmc.vapeur.free.fr/ (http://jmc.vapeur.free.fr/)
Whistle = sifflet and its associated RC valve = vanne radio. The price I mentioned is for a"sifflet" and its "vanne radio" Reference ACD16.
Tell him I gave you the information, I am a good and demanding client ==> he will take care of you, and if you need help, I speak English and French ok2 .
Be careful, by default, we use metric measures and the RC valve is 6x75. I guess he can adapt measures for you as he sells also to foreigenrs.
And I hope you will also like this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9cC0AUeuxM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9cC0AUeuxM) The blue boat with my launch has also a JMC whistle.
-
Bonjour Alan,
Here is an example of home made whistle (unfortunately not by me) for my Cote d'Emeraude tug : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRBMj0lImus (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRBMj0lImus)
You can notice that its length has impacted its sound.
-
Hi Alan thank you so much for sharing your wonderful build and also for your helpful replies to mine and others questions you must be very proud of alaska :-)) ,when is the next one?
Cheers
John
-
How very kind of you to say so, thank you John.
Yes I am very proud and I,ve loved loved every minute
I have learned so much.
Cheers
Alan
-
Your Alaska turned out really beautiful. A whistle would certainly be a great addition, it should be very popular with the onlookers ☺
-
I forgot to add that it is really easy to build a whistle youself. I've built a very small one just using 3 different brass pipe diameters and a Dremel tool. Here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13454602&postcount=24
You can hear it as well https://youtu.be/kv1SFV-0ONA
-
Thank you, really good load whistle.
I think we could be whistling soon
cheers
Alan
-
The longer the whistle the lower the frequency and sound. I was thinking that you could hide a larger one in the stack and hock it up with a smaller scale one.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
I,ve found one that looks right
I,ll let you know how I get on
-
Well we now have a whistle !! Just like the real one and it's on the remote control.
Canopy now made and fitted,
Just thought you may be interested.
Regards
Alan
-
Beautiful!
-
Thank you kno3, thats very kind of you.
Just to remind all what the real one looks like
-
Looks fantastic.
Will you be able to sail her next to the full size one?
Regards,
Gerald
-
I don,t think the current or the waves on the Thames would allow it
but it,s a nice thought, thank you for your comment
-
Hi All
Well I've had a bit of time off but now just finished the steam control to the whistle, I found it a bit wet strait from the boiler so I've piped it in loop to the back of the boiler and fitted a control valve.
This also worked out fine to fit the servo and control arm. This way it allows me to control the steam feed with the length of the control rod to get a perfect pitch from the whistle.
I have also finished the steering platform with gear controls and even a fire bucket courtesy of my wife.
-
A special thank you to all the members of the forum that have made this build possible. I couldn't have done it without you and indeed to the owner of this forum for going to the trouble to help us all.
The last bit is a video of Alaska sailing with the old roof, as you will see it's a bit top heavy so I replaced it with a much lighter one, all is now ready.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20gzf4xAfWg
Thank you again
Alan
-
Superb job Alan you must be very proud
cheers
John
-
Yes I sure am
Thank you John
-
Hi Alan,
She surely sails well and is a credit to your building skill at boat building and the engineering of the steam plant, well done.
Question,
At about 3 secs into the video is that the Loch Ness monster raising it's head at the bottom of the pic, it's more evident on full screen pic.
On the second Vid of 2.10 mins there seams to be all sorts of things lurking just below the surface ?
George.
-
Ha Ha, no the lake is full of carp and you can hand feed them, they never trouble the boats.
-
What a lovely way to finish this project 3 years later with a picture of my model and the original
We are at Marlow in Buckinghamshire and I'm with the Captain.
Thank you again to all those who made this project happen.
Regards
Alan
-
Superb and congratulations on your build with many thanks for sharingCheers
John.
-
Thank you John
-
:-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
-
Wonderful, congratulations!
-
I have to agree with the previous comments - that really is a beautiful build :-))
-
I’d like to do that with SL Wear but her original is lying in a shed in Port Stevens covered in filth and old paint tins, so sad.
Jerry.
-
Thank you all for your kind comments.