Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

Dry Dock / Shipyard: Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: Andyn on April 23, 2012, 08:31:03 PM

Title: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 23, 2012, 08:31:03 PM
I've been looking at the brand new RCMK K-30RZ for a while now, trying to decide what to put it in. Had quite a few ideas, such as a H&M cat, or a big rigger. Finally settled upon the HOR 50" mono, which looks to be a Delta Force copy underneath, with a rather nice looking top to it.

Both were ordered, the engine from GizmoMotors in Florida, and the hull coming from Hong Kong. After being stung for import duty on the engine I've finally got both here, and will start building shortly. All the running gear is already sorted, and I should be getting a more suitable radio box for it than the one I have this weekend. Due to space restraints and the pipe rules of the BMPRS, the fuel tanks will have to be the bladder type, and will be shoved up in the gunwhales out the way of the hot bit.

Toying with paint schemes currently, deck will be gloss black, exposed gel coat underneath with possibly a red hatch. Barry of Barry's model lettering will be supplying the decals for it. Also toying with the idea (on Scoop's recommendation) of getting the electronic CDI kit, I'll see how much room I've got left in the radio box. Either way, the boat's gonna go like stink %)

Andy.

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05660.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05673.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05670.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05672.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: SallyB on April 23, 2012, 09:09:30 PM
In your hands, it could be fatal  {-) {-)

Agree with you there Danny!
Careful with black paint Andy, hard to see if you conk out and that lovely decor and hull could end up beaten up, perhaps a florescent stripe top and bottom? :)
Either way, pretty damn sexy.
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 23, 2012, 09:15:47 PM
It's getting some pretty large high vis Nyan Cat vinyls on it  %)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: craig dickson on April 23, 2012, 10:30:00 PM
That engine looks a beast and the hull a good quality moulding. :-))

What power output will this engine deliver (asking out of curiosity)?

Cheers
Craig
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 23, 2012, 11:22:15 PM
Supposedly they're 7.5hp out of the box, at up to 19,000rpm, though with the electronic CDI unit I suspect faster...
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: craig dickson on April 24, 2012, 06:54:42 PM
Hi Andy

Out of interest I am in the build process of a Prestwich Thunder with a Zen7. Unfortunately it I believe can not qualify for BMPRS racing. I've just fitted the engine and prop tube.

I will be very interested to see further photos as your build progresses :-))

Cheers
Craig

Oh this is mine so far:

(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww350/DICKSONUK8/Prestwich%20Thunder%20with%20Zen7/Proptubeinside.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 24, 2012, 07:53:50 PM
Today I've been rather busy, as I've had the day off work...

The engine mounts on the rear had to be re machined, as I need the engine as far forward on the rails as I can get it, this took quite a while to do. The end result is that the mounting rubbers now sit 3/4" further towards the engine, allowing the exhaust to actually sit inside the boat.

The rails were then marked up and slotted with the dremel, for both the engine and propshaft support. I've also filed out the air ducts on the deck, and fitted the rudder.

I then popped over to Bill to borrow a piston stopper and plug spanner, to set about trying to break my little finger attempting to undo the pullstarter dog on the back of the engine. I don't like pullstarts, they're an awful lot of effort for very little gain, especially when the engine is cold. This has been replaced by a pulley wheel to use a proper starter, and I've also fitted the coupling.

This is where we are now:

Andy :-)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05676.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05680.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05681.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05682.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Subculture on April 24, 2012, 07:59:44 PM
'Ere, I've been bowdlerized?
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Danny on April 25, 2012, 11:12:38 AM
Andy - don't forget to move your stuffing tube T-bar further forward.  Where its shown on the picture won't give enough support to the front of the tube.
Cheers
Danny
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 25, 2012, 07:19:12 PM
Andy - don't forget to move your stuffing tube T-bar further forward.  Where its shown on the picture won't give enough support to the front of the tube.

Will do mate, it's got to be dropped a bit too...
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: craig dickson on April 26, 2012, 06:11:05 PM
Hi Andy

Thanks for sharing the further images. I do like the layout of this engine for marine applications. I like the fact that unlike the Zenoah the exhaust is piped in a straight line with no need for bends in the manifold. Also I like the position of your starter pulley because it means that the belt does not have to stay in the boat risking snagging against the moving prop shaft etc.

Cheers
Craig
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 30, 2012, 10:04:04 PM
Done a little more work on it this evening.. Sanded out the stuffing tube hole in the radio box, sanded out the exhaust pipe opening in the rear of the hatch, and made a hole for the plug cap to sit in.

Space is very limited in this boat, hence the need for the plug cap hole (engine sits too high), the slot in the rear deck for the pipe (manifold doesn't go high enough), and the radio box slot, which will be reshaped when the stuffing tube is in the boat. There was only about 1/4" clearance between the bottom of the box and the hull, to be able to get a quarter scale servo in I'm having to use a deep V box.

There's going to be two problems with this boat, which I can do nothing at all about. Firstly, it's going to have quite a high center of gravity, owing to the fact the engine has the magneto pickup on the side of the engine. This is as low as it can go while the engine is still able to rock, but the engine is still quite far up. Second problem is quite obvious, it may have the center of gravity a bit too far forward. Nothing that can't be solved with a bit of lead as it's not out by far, but I'd rather not have to.

Other small issue is that I may have to have the radio box lid made out of aluminium, to stop it melting. There's a good half inch of clearance though, any thoughts? The pipe physically cannot go any higher...

I'm currently waiting on postie to bring me the throttle servo mount, throttle servo (Savox SC0252MG), twin 500ml fuel bags and the stuffing tube.

Shaft support will be moved a bit next, then I'll get the stinger on then it'll be time to paint

Andy :-)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05685.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05687.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05689.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Danny on April 30, 2012, 11:13:19 PM
Hi Andy
Re. radio box and exhaust.  If you use aluminium (or carbon fibre) for the lid, be sure to use extensions on your rx aerial to bring it out of the box as 2.4 or 40 MHz won't pass through.  With half an inch clearance, you could try either the shiny aluminium tape on the top of the box as a heat reflector, or use a piece of plumbers heat diffusing pad (modern equivalent to asbestos) to absorb the heat.
Don't worry about the centre of gravity - it will give you a ready excuse when it barrels on the corners  ;D
Looking good though  :-))
Cheers
Danny
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on April 30, 2012, 11:22:46 PM
I think I'll just use acrylic with an aluminium strip on the top of it, should do the job. A small strip of heatsink under the pipe might help matters, too.

Andy :-)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: gwa84the2nd on May 01, 2012, 01:09:17 AM
you could always wrap the pipe in car manifold wrap you can hold it with you and at full temp with that on  :-))
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: craig dickson on May 01, 2012, 06:22:14 PM
Other small issue is that I may have to have the radio box lid made out of aluminium, to stop it melting. There's a good half inch of clearance though, any thoughts?

Hi Andy

Does your pipe have a water cooling jacket at the front? If so I suspect that half inch clearance should be sufficient (with the airflow via the front vents) to prevent problems to your acrylic radio lid.

In the photo below (for comparison), my Lynx has about 10mm between the 6mm perspex lid and the front cone of the pipe and it has given me zero problems:

(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww350/DICKSONUK8/Prestwich%20Lynx/LynxHatchoff.jpg)

Cheers
Craig
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 01, 2012, 08:17:17 PM
It does, needs resealing but will be used anyway.

Stuffing tube, battery, fuel bags and servo mount all arrived via postie today, so will be fitting in the not too distant future. It's like christmas round here at the moment... ;)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 01, 2012, 08:19:47 PM
Oh, and if you're planning on racing that Lynx that pipe will need to be shielded.
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: gwa84the2nd on May 01, 2012, 08:31:31 PM
i always wounderd on a pipe that extends beyond the limits what constitutes shealding the pipe then
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 01, 2012, 08:48:45 PM
Any pipe that protrudes more than 65mm beyond the transom needs sheilding, a bit of rolled ally around it will do the trick :-))
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: scoop on May 01, 2012, 09:13:02 PM
i always wounderd on a pipe that extends beyond the limits what constitutes shealding the pipe then
Like Andyn says a bit of rolled ally with an air gap between the shield and the pipe, it's there to stop the rescue crew accidentally burning their hands on a hot pipe when they pick the boat up out of the water :-))

Cheers
Scoop
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: gwa84the2nd on May 02, 2012, 01:09:50 AM
cool i will have to sea what i can do with mine then lol

(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/wiplash84/100_1508.jpg)
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/wiplash84/100_1504.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 02, 2012, 11:08:17 AM
That's gonna need a dustbin round it  :o
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 02, 2012, 02:58:10 PM
cool i will have to sea what i can do with mine then lol

(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/wiplash84/100_1508.jpg)
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/wiplash84/100_1504.jpg)

You need to get the motor further forward mate as i said before,i never had that much pipe out the back of mine,i used a bandless cone to cone pipe all that stuck out was the silencer on the end of the pipe.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 02, 2012, 03:58:33 PM
Forgot to mention James i used a deep vee header,i know some say they dont tune to the max but i never had any problems getting my boat to over 40 mph with a stock zen and it ran flawlessly.I know most guys use the 90% headers but you need to get the motor as far forward as she will go for those to work and also make sure you get the widest bend that will fit this makes the pipe a tad shorter too.Looking at your motor it can go forward a good 4 inches ?.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: ids987 on May 02, 2012, 05:02:12 PM
I think I'll just use acrylic with an aluminium strip on the top of it, should do the job. A small strip of heatsink under the pipe might help matters, too.

Andy :-)

If you've really got 1/2" clearance - between the pipe and the lid itself, I don't think you'll have a problem. I know gas pipes get hotter than nitro, but the pipe on my AA boat, is close enough that I can only manoeuvre the pipe into position if the jubilee clip (pipe clamp) is the right way up. If the worm drive is pointing anywhere near downwards, the pipe won't line up with the header. The clip is also more than halfway back along the radio box (much less clearance further forward). The only time I've had any heat related problems, the jubilee clip was clamped up against the lid, and the lid has an impression of part of the jubilee clip.
I doubt that any of my boats have as much as 1/2" clearance at the front of the radio box.
The lid material I mentioned is polycarbonate (AKA Lexan or Makrolon). It is tougher than acrylic/perspex. I know I've got at least one bit which is big enough. Drop me a line with the size of the box, and I'll measure up.
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 02, 2012, 10:12:33 PM
Done a little more this evening :-)

Firstly I drilled out a hole in the transom for the stuffing tube to pass through, the exact diameter of the tube itself. This is a nice tight fit in the hole, making things easier to align later on. I then got the flexi and inserted it into the tube, and used it to bend the tube to shape. This happened pretty much first time in line, so I then set about moving the propshaft support. this is now around half an inch away from the end of the tube, and holds it perfectly in line.

Next job was to mark up and fit the stinger on the boat, then epoxy the stuffing tube in. Last bit for tonight was the drain hole in the upper left side of the transom.

Up next will be the bottom of the radio box, this will need to be re sealed to the new shape of the stuffing tube. Then I can start filling it with goodies...

Andy :-)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05692-1.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05693.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05697.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05696.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 02, 2012, 10:34:54 PM
Andy you made a mistake by epoxying your stuffing tube in,now you have no adjustability no up and down movement,most people just slot the hole in the transom and seal it with silicone that way you can move the stinger if needed.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 02, 2012, 10:37:50 PM
Never fear, I've tried it and it still has a good few degrees of movement :-)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 02, 2012, 11:45:47 PM
Been fixed now means that any movement of the stinger by adjusting the screws means your cable is now binding against the tube which is now fixed tight,far better to leave it loose at the transom for this reason.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: ids987 on May 03, 2012, 02:03:02 PM
I'm with Mart on this one Andy. Although it won't make much difference when you adjust the angle of the stuffing tube (unless you bend the stuffing tube to follow the angle of the stinger - which you sometimes have to do anyway, for more than slight adjustments), you also, ultimately, want the facility to be able to move the whole stinger up and down. As a general rule of thumb, leave at least two inches between the transom, and where the stuffing tube is fixed. As it stands now, it should be fairly easy to chop some of the epoxy away. Perhaps even more importantly, when you rebuild the bottom of the radio box, make sure you leave clearance there. Different props will work best at different heights. The chopper props, for example - which are becoming popular for fast monos, are designed to run on the tips of the blades. They are reckoned to run best with the centreline of the prop ~25% of the prop diameter above the vee; so a 70mm prop would have the centreline about 17.5mm above the vee (or ride pad in your case).
I know that; with a nicely fitting hole for the stuffing tube, and nice small holes for the stinger fixing bolts, you can't adjust the stinger upwards as it stands, but those things can relatively easily be adapted. If the stuffing tube is fixed solid all the way, and there's no clearance under the radio box, it will make life much more difficult.......
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 03, 2012, 04:09:48 PM
In my opinion take it out and open the hole in the transom into a slot up and down so you have at least 1/2"-3/4" of adjustment, as said above you will at some point need to lift the whole stinger for certain props to get the best out of the boat.
Herse a good tip also instead of fixing the actual flex tube into the hull get the next size up tube cut a short length and fix this in and slide the propshaft through this that way when you need to you can easily remove the tube and replace it.Fix it in with a good quallity silicone no need to glass or epoxy it,the t bar holds it firmly and the other end slides into the stinger so its going nowhere.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: ids987 on May 03, 2012, 05:39:47 PM
In my opinion take it out and open the hole in the transom into a slot up and down so you have at least 1/2"-3/4" of adjustment

Pretty much what I do for a strut setup. Most stingers though (or most that I have seen anyway), only have adjustment for drive angle (ie not the actual height). So as well as slotting the stuffing tube hole, you'd need to slot all four screw holes. I have one each of 1/4" and 3/16" stingers, and they're both like that. I think Andy's is too. Also, the stingers which I have don't slide onto the stuffing tube like struts do. The hole is wide open, so the stinger doesn't support the stuffing tube at all.
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 04, 2012, 06:45:33 AM
Pretty much what I do for a strut setup. Most stingers though (or most that I have seen anyway), only have adjustment for drive angle (ie not the actual height). So as well as slotting the stuffing tube hole, you'd need to slot all four screw holes. I have one each of 1/4" and 3/16" stingers, and they're both like that. I think Andy's is too. Also, the stingers which I have don't slide onto the stuffing tube like struts do. The hole is wide open, so the stinger doesn't support the stuffing tube at all.

Not sure what stingers you use but if the holes bigger ive used a bigger diam tube or tubes on the end of the prop tube to make it a snug fit once im happy with the angle as it will reduce adjustment a bit,probably not needed though,but yea i agree slot the holes for the screws on the stinger also i use a thin piece of carbon or ali plate inside the hull  keeps things neat and tidy and better than just washers.
My personal favourite setup is a simple strut i find them better for adjustment especially up and down when raising the whole setup but stingers def look nicer.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 04, 2012, 07:57:51 AM
Duly noted, but I'll leave it as is for now.. :-)

Martin, I prefer struts too, but the doner boat for this project had a stinger on it so I used that :-))
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: martno1fan on May 04, 2012, 01:38:49 PM
No worries Andy by all means try it and see how she runs m8.I find the 7015/3 prop hard to beat for performance and handling on a mono.
Mart
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: craig dickson on May 04, 2012, 07:39:49 PM
Hi Andy

Thanks for the further photos as I love to see a boat build process in pictures - they always speak louder than words.

I am interested to know what you are going to use for boat buoyancy. Especially buoyancy towards the mid section and transom should the boat fliip over and filll with water.
 :-X
Cheers
Craig
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 08, 2012, 04:40:57 PM
Craig, I'm going to be using either pipe lagging or pool noodles, certainly one piece of pipe lagging though as I'll be running my lanyard coiled up through it.

Today, I've drilled the last remaining holes (lanyard, grab handles front and back), sanded the hull down, then primed and painted the deck. You can see yourself in it at the moment... Just hoping the >>:-( flies don't use it as a runway as usual

Just about to give Mr Model Lettering (Barry) a line as to getting some vinyls sorted for it.

Andy :-)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05710.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05711.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05712.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05713.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 08, 2012, 06:13:53 PM
And here's where we are with the masking removed :-)

Oh, and yes, the flies did land on it >>:-(

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05714.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05715.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05716.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: craig dickson on May 08, 2012, 06:49:57 PM
That looks Fantastic Andy :-))

Cheers
Craig
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 08, 2012, 08:57:16 PM
Cheers mate :-))
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: patternmaker on May 08, 2012, 09:03:15 PM
Great build Andy, looks very good, that is going to one fast boat.

Regards Mick
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 08, 2012, 09:12:36 PM
Thanks Mick :-)

The decals have been sent off to Barry (Barry's model lettering, fantastic Vinyls both off the shelf and custom, and all round top bloke) for cutting. Not saying what they are yet, but they are, shall we say.. Different?
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: scoop on May 09, 2012, 09:07:29 AM
Hi Andy, I see you use Halfords car paint....great stuff to work with, lurvely looking boat,  :-)) you've put some time in on that one  ;)are you intending to race it ?

Scoop
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: scoop on May 09, 2012, 05:59:18 PM
Hi Andy

Out of interest I am in the build process of a Prestwich Thunder with a Zen7. Unfortunately it I believe can not qualify for BMPRS racing. I've just fitted the engine and prop tube.

I will be very interested to see further photos as your build progresses :-))

Cheers
Craig

Oh this is mine so far:

(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww350/DICKSONUK8/Prestwich%20Thunder%20with%20Zen7/Proptubeinside.jpg)
Have a word with us Craig and we will tell you how to make your boat comply with the 50mm rule  :-))
Regards
Scoop
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 09, 2012, 07:38:29 PM
Hi Andy, I see you use Halfords car paint....great stuff to work with, lurvely looking boat,  :-)) you've put some time in on that one  ;)are you intending to race it ?

Scoop

Thanks very much mate.. I may as well have shares in Halfords, I've got more cans of the stuff than our local...

I am of course intending to do the odd race with it, though not majorly competitively :-)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: graham on May 09, 2012, 10:43:50 PM
did any more flies use your boat as a runway  {-)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 09, 2012, 11:31:17 PM
Yes mate, they did.... Thankfully, they decided to land where there's already vinyls going anyway, so not too much of an issue %)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 12, 2012, 09:40:42 PM
The sticky bits arrived from Barry today, so here you go :-))

Work on the boat will hopefully continue tomorrow...

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05725.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05727.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: patternmaker on May 13, 2012, 09:56:01 AM
Hi Andy,
That looks superb, with regard to your stinger, in this months Model Boat magazine by Stewart Rae (SCOOP) building
a D Class Navaho running a Sikk 27, like you he permanently fixes the stinger as I have done many times in my builds.
I have building sports and racing boats for over 40 years, now I build steam models a lot more sedate.

Regards Mick
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: U-33 on May 13, 2012, 10:04:23 AM
Shame about the lettering though, Andy san...
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 13, 2012, 02:02:20 PM
That stinger came off the back of Bill warder's Stealth, and was permanently fixed int there too, I don't see any problem in doing it really. I've got a good had inch of unsupported flex inside the stinger itself anyway.

Rich I should probably explain the lettering. I think this should suffice...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH2-TGUlwu4

Andy ;)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: U-33 on May 13, 2012, 02:38:20 PM
I knew I should have kept quiet...I just knew it.
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: ids987 on May 13, 2012, 03:54:50 PM
That stinger came off the back of Bill warder's Stealth, and was permanently fixed int there too, I don't see any problem in doing it really. I've got a good had inch of unsupported flex inside the stinger itself anyway.

Rich I should probably explain the lettering. I think this should suffice...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH2-TGUlwu4

Andy ;)

Looking good Andy. For what it's worth. Although I don't like not having vertical adjustment, I probably wouldn't have tried to make it adjustable either. Apart from the problem of the slots themselves, you'd have the problem of making the stuffing tube track. If the stinger can slide up and down, the tube needs to follow it. Unless your stinger is much the same I.D as the tube O.D, it wouldn't really work. You'd need to somehow build the tube out to the I.D of the stinger - then decide how to hide the slotted holes. Run it as it is and see how it goes.  I've spent time pondering over adding height adjustment to stingers, but haven't done it with either of mine yet. Having said that, I've used struts much more, and don't think I'd buy another stinger. Hope to see it running before long.
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 13, 2012, 05:07:44 PM
I thought yours were all fixed anyway mate..

Anyway, Just been waxing it a bit this afternoon, and got the rest of the bits sorted in the radio box. The gap was repaired by masking the bottom of the box up and pouring epoxy in.

List of stuff left to do:
Throttle / rudder linkages
Water cooling outlets
Bolt radio box in
Fit floatation and fuel bags.

Oh, and the rigger will be running in two weeks time, got a proper coupling for it this morning :-))

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSCF1115.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSCF1111.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSCF1113.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05740.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC05739.jpg)

Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: scoop on May 13, 2012, 10:54:19 PM
Hi Andy,
That looks superb, with regard to your stinger, in this months Model Boat magazine by Stewart Rae (SCOOP) building
a D Class Navaho running a Sikk 27, like you he permanently fixes the stinger as I have done many times in my builds.
I have building sports and racing boats for over 40 years, now I build steam models a lot more sedate.

Regards Mick
Indeed I do with the centre line of the flexi 1cm from the bottom of the transom  :-))
Cheers
Scoop
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 13, 2012, 11:19:09 PM
There we go then ;) I've never before in my life seen a not permanently fixed in flexi...
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: F1 madness on May 15, 2012, 11:20:10 AM
Hi andy
just a tip for you,the exhaust header flange tends to leak through the bolt holes,replace the metal washers with teflon and add some blue thread lock this stops the leaking to maintain optimal cooling
I had it mine and took 3-4 attempts to fix the problem and this was the best solution i found
 :-))
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 15, 2012, 06:53:30 PM
Ok mate, cheers :-))
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: F1 madness on May 19, 2012, 05:07:49 PM
Andy just wanted to give you the heads up before you run the K30
dont fire it up the wristpin spacers are made out of the wrong material and is not hard enough they are breaking up and bending cranks and ruining piston jugs
this is happening to alot and a few are not happy about it
Iv been told to use the zen spacers but you have to machine the piston to get the right clearance but also just heard you can use the RCMK Evo 1's aswell but im looking into it more now and let you know asap
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 19, 2012, 05:14:53 PM
A well though out engine then %)

Cheers mate, will hang fire for a bit
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: F1 madness on May 19, 2012, 05:32:42 PM
Hi andy
been on the RCMK website the K30's and the EVO's use the same spacers by the looks of it so dont use them either
looks like the zen 1 are the next choice
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on May 19, 2012, 06:02:21 PM
The only different between the two is the jug and piston / rod anyway...
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: F1 madness on May 20, 2012, 12:19:49 PM
I know but was told this is the easy fix,didnt believe it myself hence why i looked into it more
Im speaking to some1 at mo who can hopefully machine the piston and supply the zen spacers as there thicker
Hopefully find out tomorrow if he can and how much to fix the problem 
will keep you posted
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on June 09, 2012, 09:18:13 PM
After not touching it for a couple of weeks, I've just started again. Today, I've sorted the throttle linkage and radio box lid. Aerial is a bit close to the pipe, but not close enough to melt when the lid is secured down, so no worries there.

Throttle link was the right pain in the backside, couldn't get the angles right on the carb so I've flipped it over. Made up a support for the tube, and glued the whole lot into the radio box with Mr Sticky Steve's finest.

I've also just bought myself a new little toy, and if anyone is interested I could do a review on here?

Andy :-)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSCF1146.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSCF1148.jpg)

(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSCF1145.jpg)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Tug-Kenny on June 09, 2012, 10:05:19 PM

            Shouldn't have a picture of a Boat on it.

                {-)  {-)  {-)  {-)  {-)  {-)

Yes please Andy. I would be very interested, as I sure would other members.

cheers

ken
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: A71 on June 10, 2012, 07:58:32 PM
Andy I think you need some more foam in that :-) looking rather good now oh and cheers for the YouTube link :-/
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: Andyn on June 10, 2012, 09:27:50 PM
Don't want it sinking now do we?  ;)
Title: Re: D Class Boat build
Post by: gwa84the2nd on June 11, 2012, 01:26:32 AM
same with my boat every nook and cranny paked with floatation  :-))