Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: BailingBen on May 09, 2012, 09:18:43 pm
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hello this is my build log of my los angeles class nuclear attack sub uss dallas the pictures be very good as my phone with 8 meg cam was nicked so am using laptop cam .
as we are the ruders and diveplans have had drilled holes and metal poles and are awaiting my conectors for them before i can glue them the conning tower has been edited and finished of just needs painting and ive got as far as i can until my order from mmb (endcaps push rods ect) comes (next mondayish (cant wait ) ) uncle alan (unbuiltnautilas) is working on a ballast tank and if he is succesfull he will copy it for me the stand (although not a perfect fit) was donated by my uncle so enjoy i know i will
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again sorry for the bad quality photos kk
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Looks like it's coming along.
Little tip for you when taking pictures. Add some extra light, use an angle poise lamp even a torch pointed at the subject will result in much clearer images, or better still take the things outside and use natural light.
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will do
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well I have a problem two dive planes need to be controlled via one servo the same with the two riders but how do I do it ? also in the pics the bits of metal at the back are the ones for the arm to go on forward ones are just to strengthen it
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There are a couple of ways of going about this. The most popular way for spindle stern boats, is to make a set of yokes like the ones shown in the picture. You can use wheel collars and brass rod or sheet for the connecting pieces. I recommend the use of stainless steel grub screws, as steel ones will rust. The yoke with the loop controls the rear planes, and the half circle is for the rudders.
(http://s14.postimage.org/djufp8u3x/R_C_ing_the_Trumpeter_1_144_SEAWOLF_SSN21_Submarine_Part_4_img_10.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/djufp8u3x/)
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thanks for that here are the pics
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I take it the other rods are for reinforcing keying shafts for the fixed planes. They should be trimmed back and glassed in with more polyester resin or epoxied over (only use 24 hour epoxy if you use that).
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they will be chopped back but cant be glued till i get the arms on otherwise i can pull the moving bit out
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Well you know what you have to make now. It's not the only way to do it, there are a couple of other ways.
That hull lay-up looks very chunky.
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what do u mean hull lay up?
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and I thought of a better easier way for steering and diving 1 pushrods leaves wtc it the goes into a two wide choco block that splits it into two you tighten the screws up this also makes them very adjustable just need to get some steering arms small enough
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That's another way of doing it, I believe the Sheerline boats do things that way.
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it's simple easy and cheap just what I'm looking for
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Do bear in mind that those choco blocks usually contain steel screws, and they will corrode, which might make things difficult if you need to dismantle things at some point. You can help things by greasing the parts well. The best solution is to stick to brass or stainless steel for any metal parts that sit in the wet.
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in that case it shouldn't be that hard to buy some screws that won't rust and replace them
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more picies of work incl diving out flow switch im sure i made that sound complicated enough {-)
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i thought of two positions for the servo for the switch thingy on its side or like the other two im going to go with like the other 2 servos as i feel just gluing it down due to the force it needs to puch it would just push up wich isnt the worst thing in the world as it would just cause it to blow its ballast tanks and rise but would be a pain in the back side to keep gluing so it so i will glue it into a slot
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Why glue your servos in? Screws are a lot easier to undo if one goes wrong.
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What have you done to my nice, polished, green perspex thingy??? And screw it down, thats what i gave you the nice shiney, stainless screw thingys for!!
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i couldnt get the screws thingys out so i siliconed it into a slot but the silcone wasnt coming out si i sqeezed it in a clamp and it exploded out the end all over your nice thingy
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i would sugest you pay a little visit to the tool station , and buy yourself a decent selection of decent quality tools ! you would then be capable of doing up / undoing screws ?
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i think the model shop have some good screw drivers
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ahh! , but they are not much good to you while on the model shop shelves . save some pocket money and buy yourself some tools that will make your model building much easier ? as all of us are aware you will never have too many tools , i have many items that are doubled and even quadrupelled within my tool boxes , in just the same way we all have adapted tools for a particular job ( even a cut down 9/16 ring spanner for changing starter motors on mk 10 jaguars )
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Yes but does he know how to use them {-) {-) %%
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Perhaps you can persuade 'Uncle Alan' to make something a bit more purposeful for you, whilst you carry out a few off jobs in payment- e.g. mow the lawn, tidy the workshop etc.
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he doesn't have a lawn but his workshop is a tipp so will ask him I'm not sure he trusts me sorting it out though lol %%
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the workshop isnt a tip is organized chaos ! bet alan will know where everything is ? BATT i think we both know the answer to your question , its two letter begins n !
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the dive tank works yay next to fit it to the main board you know the one next to the control board just near the moving thing in the gutter like thing (Julies Verne is turning in his grave ). I've scrapped the whol green thingy idea and got my self a nice two way geared water pump
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You will still need a pinch valve to stop back flow through the pump if the tank is sealed. If the tank is vented you don't need a valve, but the boat needs to be trimmed positively buoyant, otherwise you can't empty the tank.
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I'm confused so surly if the tank vents then there's no air left to surface
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Yep. You have to drive it to the surface, or let it float up of it's own accord- hence the need for positive buoyancy. If you have a sealed tank, the pump compresses the air as the tank fills with water, but geared pumps leak a bit, so once you stop pumping, you'll find the pressure in the tank gradually pushes the water out through the pump, ruining your trim. That's why you need the valve.
There is a third way, but that involves making a snorkel, which may be a little tricky for you. Keep it simple.
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ok I MIT just. use a drive it to the surface well I'm not sure actually I will use a valve but what tube do I put it on
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Calling Station X for deciphering!
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BEN please translate your last post , goble - de -gook wasnt on our language studies when we went to school !
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ok I MIT just. use a drive it to the surface well I'm not sure actually I will use a valve but what tube do I put it on
this is a funny read and a great build thread, well done ben :-))
ben says:
'' ok i might use the vented tank idea drive the sub to the surface or let it float. well i think i will do it that way. i will use the valve. what pipe does it go on?
think i got it {:-{
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I would be inclined to stick with a pressurized system- you have the parts required to make this work, and it enables you to trim the boat for different water conditions.
Don't know what size tank you've made. I don't have this boat, but L.A class is a low freeboard boat, like all U.S nukes, so at a guess I think you would need about 600-700ml, so overall you would need to volume the tank about 850ml, as this system can only fill about 70-75% of the tank. You should add baffles to the tank to prevent sloshing.
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there are two baffles in the tank
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does it make any difference as to which way the baffels are fitted in the tanks ?
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Yes, they should be fitted across the tank- port to starboard. Sloshing affects the boat most acutely along it's length, and the tank longer than it's is wide.
Baffles can be designed in a myriad of ways. The shorter and fatter your tank, the fewer the baffles are required.
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i put 2 in my one and it seems to stop it i did kinda mess up when i made them outa balsa wish i had used plastic but dont have the tools
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balsa if not very well sealed is going to absorb water ! why couldnt you make some in plasticard ?
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Yes, Plasticard would be a good choice. From model shops and you can cut it with scissors.
David
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ive bought some circle cutters which are supposed to be good on plastics , not that ive tried them yet , but my old pal up in bristol used to swear by his !
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I don't envy your task trying to put a submarine together without at least some basic hand tools.
At the very minimum you should have access to a coping saw, good quality stanley knife, drills and preferably some sort of power drill, although a hand drill will suffice if you're really stretched. Mission critical items like endcaps, shaft seals etc. can be be purchased off the shelf.
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i got a ryobi power multi tool thingy some sand paper and a scalp
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ben the dremel drum sanders are harder wearing than the ryobi ones , ive recently bought the ryobi tool myself after years of dremel ones !
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The water tight compartment only just fits every thing in it, its a squeeze. :-) :-)
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dont see that as a tight squeeze , loads of space under the tray !
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thats where the speed controler rx rx batt failsafes water switch ect ect
the dry fit
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keen eyes will notice that the ballast tank is high this is so the water tubes can run under aswell as the batt cables obviously this would reduce stabibility but as its the centre of the sub most the waying down ballast will be bellow it so this should keep her upright :-))
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those two small servos look very close to the main drive motor ? hve you got lots of superssors on th motor ? id have thought brushless motors would be better fitted here , as they run more efficiently than the brushed ones ?
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Good stuff.
Make your baffles cylindrical, so they fit inside the tank with just a very small gap between the edge of the baffle disc and the cylinder wall. If you want a cheap (free) material that's easy to cut, have a look for an abandoned estate agents 'for sale' sign. These are made from a corrugated plastic, which is strong but light, waterproof and easy to cut to size with a knife. I would put three baffles in that tank, as it's quite long.
I'm a little concerned about the ballast tank endcaps (coffee jar lids?). Pressures will reach 50-60psi (4 bar) on a sealed system, so it needs to be strong as you will have several hundred pounds acting against those walls. I'd recommend using some plastic sheet at least 3/8" (8mm) thick tied together with two or three metal rods, and securely bonded into the cylinder at each end. If you get a chance to look at a sheerline or Eden boat, you'll see the tank is of very sturdy construction, and it's not done for fun. Copy it.
It looks like you have a direct drive 500 size motor for power. I see it's MFA, and from memory they do about 1000RPM per volt. At 12 volts this will be far too high revving for the size and pitch of prop you have on this boat. You can gear it down 4 or 5:1, or use a lower revving motor. The former is going to require you to move the servos back a bit to allow for the gearbox, the latter may be tricky to source. I would think you'll want a shaft RPM of between 2500-3000 RPM and motors with those specs tend to be indistrial quality (Buhler, Maxon etc.) and take a little hunting down. Brushless motors are nice, but not really necessary plus they'll push the price up considerably.
I have a feeling the waterpump you are using will corrode- designed for pumping fuel, not water.
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the motor cant be changed as its bracket is heavily glued to the wtc so to replace would need a whole new end cap the coffee lids arnt moving they where epoxy and silicone in and i didn't go light on either of them this also means i can add/take any baffles out but i am sure two will suffice the geared motor is second hand its a water one but not sure if its been used before in the test it was fine cant do brushles do to cost
kk
ps: this is my first proper sub i can guarantee im going to make mistakes and after this i want to build a vanguard from deans marine as its a similar size and hopefully i wont make the mistakes i make on this on that
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kk , are you able to pressure test the tank other than filled with water ? it would be better to alter the parts SUBCULTURE has pointed out now rather than have a problem later , ive accsess to a lathe and milling machine if something needed changing !
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It's not the bond I'm concerned about, it's the thickness and strength of the coffee pot lids. The ones I've encountered are usually rather thin, and brittle plastic. Good enough for their original purpose, but not what you want for a part that has to with stand quite a bit of pressure.
The screw on an LA class at 1/80 scale is going to be about 3" diameter. I don't know the angle of attack of the blade, but I think it's a Raboesch prop you have, and they tend to be a 'square', so we'll say 3" pitch or thereabouts. Even at 3000RPM your boat will be doing about 6 knots. If the motor is stuck in, cut it out, because it isn't going to work as is, at best you'll overheat the motor, perhaps your speed controller too. You should be able to take the motor in and out easily anyway, as you need to service the shaft seal and motor bearings periodically.
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sub , having met kk at the lakeside this afternoon i would hope hes learnt silicone sealant motor adhesion isnt quite as secure as he originally thought ! id much rather over engineer a biuld & not have future problems
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The prop on that thing is a 60mm 7 blader :-)
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A bit smaller than I thought it would be. All the same you shouldn't need more than about 3-3500RPM for lively performance, you have a lot of blade area on that prop, and the LA class is a slippery hull that doesn't need a lot of poke to make it slide through the water nicely.
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i think i will keep my motor as its a slow 480 and shouldnt be that bad the blade is propshop and the coffe lids will be filled with epoxy then smoothed with filler that should give it more than enough strength
ta kk
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If it's the same prop Rich had on there, it's the same prop I bought, and it's a Raboesch 60mm 7 blade, from Steve Tranter.
Straight drive that prop will destroy a 480 in seconds.
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It's a 480!! Yikes, I thought it was a 500 size motor, which was pushing your luck. No chance kiddo, not in a millions years will a 480 pull that size prop direct drive.
But it's alright- free entertainment is not to be sniffed at these days. Now, where's that popcorn?
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i think i will keep my motor as its a slow 480 and shouldnt be that bad the blade is propshop and the coffe lids will be filled with epoxy then smoothed with filler that should give it more than enough strength
ta kk
You are so gonna cook that motor or burn out the ESC even if its a slow one... you are doing the equivalent of putting the engine from a ford fiesta on a tractor
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sorry got it wrong i have a mfa 540/1 low drain motor
ta kk if it explodes i will replace but not until it does i may run the motor of a 6v batt and everything else off 12 v
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and the prop is babosh or whatever itas called lol
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Okay, that motor does 15000RPM or thereabouts at 12 volts. At half the volts it's still running much too fast.
You want it geared down about 4:1 or 5:1 for use on 12 volts, or about 2.5:1 on 6 volts, then you can be assured it will work well with that prop.
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the isuue i have is room i have none of it left especialy llength ways so will have to see how it goes im using an electronize esc so can adjust full throttle
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kk , some of the aero modellers use inline gearboxes which mount directly on the front of the motor , we can always turn up a solid coupler that wont take up as much space as the huco type you normally use ? there is no point ploughing on with your build only to HAVE to replace a motor when it fails five mins after its got into the lake ! . reckon you have plenty of space if you were to use it wisely
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i havev no space left the wires are pushing against the endcaps the pump only just fits on the end if you saw it you would see no room !
i can adjust max throtle and v of batt so will be ok and i have a mmb solid conector wich sits inside the waterproof holder thingy will showyou when i see you later
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Triumphjohn
I have to commend you on all the help you are giving KK. It's nice to see someone going out of their way to help a young'un :)
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YES THANKS JON ALL APPRECIATED also we have unbuiltnautilas who gave me the pump the wtc alot of advice the valve (green thingy)
a discount at the modelshop and lots of lead and other bits and bobs needed
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A 555 motor would swing that prop easily, that's what I bought it for...
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Those are a low RPM 600 size motor aren't they? Certainly a better bet than what he has in there, a little more RPM than is needed really, would be better if the motor did about 4K unloaded rather than closer to 5K.
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It'll do about 4500 on 12 volt when loaded, would be absolutely perfect. Tons of torque in them too.
As it happens, I've got three brand new unused ones for sale...
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gents , i know kk is on a limited budget , would fitting a torque ring on his existing motor help bring the revs down ? i think with a little more planning and a replacement mounting board space wouldnt be such a problem !
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Nope, it'll still be far too fast...
I don't know how that mount was put together, but I designed it so that the motor can be removable afterwards, just undo the bolts, pull the motor out until you see the first grub screw, loosen that off and it'll come out.
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Ye Gods...the motor's too fast, the motor's too slow...unless Ben is different to the rest of us he's got fingers and thumbs on his hands. One thumb controls the stick on the tx...that controls how fast the motor goes.
How much easier can it get?
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Yes, but what's the point in putting an inefficient amp hungry motor on something that doesn't need it? Besides, that motor won't turn that prop without getting rather warm...
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The 540/1 is a fairly low drain motor, okay, the prop is somewhat bigger than desirable for a direct drive set-up. However, the Electronize Speed Control going in will allow him to dial down the throttle output to 25% of its normal output, 7500rpm at 6v or 15800rpm at 12v, offload. bringing that down to either 1875rpm at 6v or 3950rpm at 12v, a bit more desirable, even if the prop size is a bit big. worst case, grab that nice expensive prop and twist some of the pitch off of it :o
My bottomless box of bits that KK keeps scrounging out of is starting to show the bottom otherwise :-)
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would have thought one of your low drain 600 motors to have been a better bet alan ? dont see much point buying an expensive & quality prop to then " tweek the pitch " off somewhat ? would be better to fit running gear thats up to doing what you require of it in the first place , if you havnt got enough money then save until you can afford to do the job proprely ! !
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Sometimes saving isn't an option, if I saved to do it properly all the time I'd never get anything done, as I can't justify spending on things, make do with what you've got is sometimes the only way.
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right first off im very very very confused secondly bikerdude is right and lastly alan you were the one who saidi should start scrounging stuff off people , kinda backfired didnt it {-)
so back to the bit that im scratching my head about so what am i doing new motor but a ring on existing one alter the prop use gears keep same motor ? %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %% %%
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ben , i think a better suited motor is going to be of more benifit , dont think ive got any spare torque rings for a 540 / 600 can sized motor i will look later . have you designed the mounting tray so its easily removable in the event of needing to service / change components ?
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Only a few posts up he's talking about his next project, a hull from Deans! I think Ben is just living up to his nickname.
If the pennies are really that tight, then he can always flog on the existing motor to offset the new purchase. The 555 motors are only £9 new from MMB, so I expect Andy's might be a little less?
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i think its a classic case of too many projects on the wants list , and a very limited pocket money budget? although many of us are capable of building more than one model at a time projects can run away with our hard earned pocket money !
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yello gang the build was temporerily deraild due to school but have A week off so ive looked at what i need to do and strangly enough what i need to do is to restore another boat so i can sell it to buy a geard motor or one of andys if suited to the job :-)) am working on the aft section then seals then need to make some o rings and its plain submerging from there on %%
ta kk
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ben didnt you say there is somewhere you could buy O rings locally ?
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not complee just the material in lenghts i have to cut and glue them
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I prefer one piece moulded o-rings- less risk of failure.
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KK......using super glue to bond nitrile o-ring cord is >>:-(....when the o-ring is compressed in the cavity....yes the nitrile material will compress, but the glue is far harder & will attempt to fracture <*< .... Derek
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you have good point but the only glue on the o ring will be the tinninesst dot of superglue the rest will just push together and seal i will test this as 1m is only about a £1/2 but am confident it will work
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you will be betteer off buying a ready made o ring , im sure there will be something available " off the shelf " what diameter is the end cap ?
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Like the guys are saying, be very careful when you make an O ring, Ben...the cuts have to be made perfectly square, and you only need to apply the tiniest drop of superglue to the ends to secure it, any more will only end up as a hard lump and will let water into the wtc. Trust me...I've been there and I've done it. And I've failed...miserably.
If in any doubt, buy a ready made one, they cost but a few pennies and will save a lot of problems in the future. Or have a chat to any of the lads at Alfold next week, they will help you out.
Rich
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Yes, I agree with what everyone is saying also.
I used to be an enthusiast for O ring cord but I now also go for the ready made ones.
They are not expensive, work better and are quite easily available.
David
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i would prefer to make my own i dont want to waste £4 on an oring ready made and then relize it dont fit the end cap
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Then measure the end cap first! Measure it...check your measurement...then measure it again. Make sure it's right...
Rich
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Then measure the end cap first! Measure it...check your measurement...then measure it again. Make sure it's right...
Rich
Then take the end cap & tube with you when you go and get the O rings.......
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thats what id have sugested mark , take the end cap & even the tube to get the right sized seals
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What's the diameter of the tube 100 or 110mm?
Extruded acrylic tubing is nearly always 3mm cross section, and the internal tolerance is usually reasonable, but can be very variable- some suppliers are better than others.
To size an o-ring, remember the diameters specified are always plus double the o-ring thickness. For instance a 90 mm o-ring 3mm thick will be 96mm overall diameter, and that coincidently is the size of o-ring that would be ideal for 100mm acrylic tube.
For 110mm you would want a 96mm o-ring if using 3mm cross section. The diameter of the endcap groove should be about 0.6-1mm greater to allow the o-ring to squish inside the tube about 15-20%. The same grovve should also be about the same amount wider, as the rubber extrudes but doesn't compress, so you have to ahve somewhere for the rubber to squeeze into. So for instance the endcap groove for a 100 mm tube would need a groove of about 90.6-91mm diameter and 3.7-4.1mm wide.
Most people use nitrile o-rings, but you can also use silicone o-rings. The latter are softer, and better if the tubing accuracy is a bit wavy. You mustn't use vaseline or silicone grease on silicone o-rings though- it rots them. Lard or vegetable oil works great. Nitrile will take pretty much any mineral or silicone based grease/oil.
One final point, make sure the tubing edge is chamfered with no sharp edges, to avoid slicing the seal.
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ok but i cant just take the encaps to an online shop and cant find anywhere that sels em whole im stil confident i can do it and if it dosent work its no hassle i need to get some of the stuff for something else any way
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ben you say if it don't work no hassle but surely if it don't work it'll leak which means your sub will submerge but wont surface which means lost sub and soggy electrics ? i know which way i'd go
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These guys sell o-rings in most materials available, unfortunately £10 minimum order
http://www.polymax.co.uk
Bohemia Seal (Czech Republic!). No minimum order, but range limited to nitrile o-rings mostly- http://stores.ebay.com/BOHEMIA-SEAL/NBR-70-ShA-NBR-IRHD-73-/_i.html?_fsub=719406012&_sid=887830602&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
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ive also looked online for local companies , having been involved with hydraulics ( ex service engineer for linde fork lift trucks ) and laterly in the maintenance department at trelleberg ( ( formerly dowty seals ) ) im sure we can source the required seals locally !
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Fairy snuff. But if you can't, then those guys probably will be able to sort you out with what you need.
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the sub wont go down and no soggy electronics they will be teseted completely gutted and in a bath
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Ben please remember that water pressure increases with depth. A bath test sadly will not create much pressure. Wishing you well John.
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and doesnt presure change dependant on type of water ? ie salt , differing to brackish , or fresh water ? ? has anybody tried the lipped seals like those used in hydraulic rams ,
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I've used this supplier 2 or 3 times in the past. Reliable and good for O rings and also shaft oil seals (e.g Simrit.)
Not particularly expensive.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html
It may also be worth trying car parts suppliers. I like the idea of going along with your WTC for a fitting! I must try it the next time I go to Halfords - I can't see why they would be unhelpful.
David
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I agree with Davy1 on his choice of supplier used them my self a few times now reasonable prices usually next day delivery and seal well within tollarances requiered and a British firm to boot. Its a false economy to think you can make them yourself as stated in an earlier post a bath test will confirm no leaks at about a foot deep at the best when you get down to 4,6,or even 10 foot thats when leaks show up. super glue will also go brittle over time and also in the cold ambient temprature of your tube when submerged. Believe me kk their is notheing better than making something yourself cheaper but some thing you shouldnt leave to chance mate.
Regards Mark.
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Ben....take heed of Mark's words of wisdom. If I were you, I'd hold on until Alfold...have a chat to Nigel or David or Alf about o rings.
Rich
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just been told of a supplier of o rings and seals locally , company is in waterlooville !
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well i guess it would be some what iditic to go against all your hmmm how to put it words comment ideas you get what im trying to say (hopefully) anywhoo im doing the steering and dive planes linking them up geting um working ect back to the motor can one person give me a place i can get them and what i need cheaply taa
kk
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locally , its flowseal @ waterlooville , can suppy almost every shape & size you require , for donations to petrol fund you could get a lift !
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Cant say better than that ^^
Daniel
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im onto motors now jin though may take you up on that offer
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I'll raid my father inlaws O ring stash
What size do you need roughly? and Ill send a few in the post for you to try out... just PM me your address
oh and motors I have a Carson poison Truck motor (6500rpm@7.2V) motor if you want it... just pay the postage
http://www.carson-modelsport.com/en/products/electronic/electricmotors/produktdetails.htm?sArtNr=500906023
I had it in my king hauler RC truck and it has some serious torque and a low amp draw
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ok thanks essex2visuvesi to save stuffing stuff in post are you going to alfold charity model boat show this weekend ?
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Ben....check his location. It's a long way from Finland!!
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Dosnt seem much point in sortin motors out if the things going to sink? Water tight first then put the nice bits in? :o ( rushing to get the thing in the water will only end in water rushing in the thing )
Daniel
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Dosnt seem much point in sortin motors out if the things going to sink? Water tight first then put the nice bits in? :o ( rushing to get the thing in the water will only end in water rushing in the thing )
Daniel
Well said, that man!
Rich
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but without knowing how big the motor is i cant re seal the endcap motor mount so i need to do that first O0
and oh year but wich of the three finlands does he live in :D
kk
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Then use a sensible motor mount, attached to the equipment tray...
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im sure im not missing the point , using a commercially available o ring / seal , will mean you are able to remove the end cap in the future should it be required ?
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Well the motor looks like a 500 size job, so should just be a straight swap with what you have, but...!
It's a motor designed for 7.2volts, not 12 volts. Even on the required volts RPM is a bit high, but better than the motor you have.
You can run a lower voltage system, but will your water pump make good pressure on lower volts? Try it and see, or go back to plan 'b' and fit the 555 or a gearbox to the exisiting job.
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i think i will go to plan b the pump isnt very good on 7.2 v or 6 v
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I gave you a 12volt gel cell, didn't I?
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yes and thats what im going to use :-))
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I gave you a 12volt gel cell, didn't I?
yes and thats what im going to use :-))
I dont think the motor I have can handle 12V
But KK drop me a PM with your address and I'll wack the O rings in the post for you. I found a couple in sizes from 90-120mm so you should be able to get one to fit :)
BTW I'm in this Finland
(http://www.lonelyplanet.com/maps/europe/finland/map_of_finland.jpg)
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oh your in the best finland :-))
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well ive done dive planes justneed to buy more push rods for steering
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Bicycle spokes, stainless steel ones, make economic pushrods.
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local model shop sells 1 metre lengths of stainless rod in 1 , 2 , 3 &4mm diameters ideal for long runs of control rods !
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Fair enough. My local model shops never sold stainless, it was always carbon steel. Bras rods work well enough to. I've even seen carbon fibre used.
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The missus might be a bit peeved if her bra rods were missing though %)
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possibly has something to do with 99% of any model suitable water around here being salt water
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if none of you have yet heard here you go ive brought a robbie type 7 u 47 im sorry i couldnt resist but its fully working now and will go for test run tommorow after noon hehehe i think the la won 3rd best warship at show award but it could have been my other boat cause they were the only 2 that didnt have names and they said it didnt have a name so dunno lol
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Congratulations on winning the warship prize at Alfold!
David
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thanks davy :-)) still dont know what i won it for though {:-{ lol {-)
kk
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New motor supplied. Buehler with a 4mm dia shaft and 25mm spacing for motor screws ( 500 size ), M3. That should be slow enough. And it was free, aint I good?
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Indeed, especially as the impecunious one seems to have found the readies for another sub!
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hi guys right hes where were at this tuesday a solid block motor conector will be drilled to fit new motor , ne motor will be fitted as no o rings arrived i will make my own but interestingly my dad used to work for deep sea seals so has lots of o ring material of all sizes he kept including a type of glue they used to make them up so am sorted on that front once the motors fitted i will get back to steering and dive planes the diveplanes are all conected up and glued in the upper rudder is working and the lower ruder is still to be fitted so shouldnt be long till i can think about ballasting and the first runs and painting of course :-))
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could have sworn it was monday when i got up today ? thought youd have been at the lake tonight with the other gent & his u boat !
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didn't know there was a gent wiv a u boot down and it is Monday I think some one hasn't been ventilating the room whilst using sanding sealer and white spirit
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hi guys right hes where were at this tuesday a solid block motor conector will be drilled to fit new motor , ne motor will be fitted as no o rings arrived i will make my own but interestingly my dad used to work for deep sea seals so has lots of o ring material of all sizes he kept including a type of glue they used to make them up so am sorted on that front once the motors fitted i will get back to steering and dive planes the diveplanes are all conected up and glued in the upper rudder is working and the lower ruder is still to be fitted so shouldnt be long till i can think about ballasting and the first runs and painting of course :-))
I thought you had given up on this and bought another sub so didnt send them.
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dont use sanding sealer unless its bare timber , the white spirit i buy is oderless , and being in the trade for many years thinners paint or styrene fumes have little or no effect these days ! , your posting last night clearly states it tuesday ! as to the gent with the u boat on the lake he one of your fellow club members , sorry didnt catch his name , though you might have been at the lake in practice for wednesday with your yacht !
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ok back on track guys update is as followed basically bits of the sub are around the house but as my winter build im picking it up again since the endcaps where the wrong size ive decided to order a new set that are the right size from mmb plus a new pump of ebay , this should get me started today i have decided i will make a start on re fixing the conning tower and painting it men (and women) the build is going again , dundundun
kk