Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: slewis on April 12, 2007, 09:29:58 pm
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OK This is not only my first Build on here but also my first boat build !
So wish me luck and watch what I am doing so I don't screw it up completely ;D.
Some basic specifications
length 41.5"
beam 10.75"
scale 1/8
This an all wood double planked construction and comes with a very comprehensive instruction book .
This was ordered from the USA about a month ago , ordered NOT to save a few quid in getting it from abroad but simply every single place I contacted over here in the UK said there was NOT a single importer of Dumas kits into this country at the moment. Indeed it took a week for the place in the states to get hold of one.
But it arrived safe and sound this afternoon with only 1 piece broken , which can easily be re-cut on the scroll saw and band saw .
I am reading the instructions through a few times before starting as I always like a clear idea in my mind of what is going to happen 3 steps down the line so I can forward plan .
This kit is NOT aimed at novice builders I am told , in fact I was told this a few times over here and by the supplier in the USA .
So why did I pick it as my first build ?
Easy I like a challenge and I have built many scale RC aircraft (all fly) and some of those were scratch builds . Indeed I have one on hold at the moment as its proving a bit tricky , A 102" wing span Fairey gannet complete with working folding wings !(YES they do work ! )
So anyways its boat time .
Wish me luck and wait for the questions to start ! ;D ;D ;D
A couple of pics to wet your appetite :)
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/006/73/FF/4B/6F/32+7Ngb32m3jcgChWl-LZtGZJbT6vsKs0280.jpg)
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/14/006/3D/54/7A/3E/D2cKUnReWKsLC-mpn5Psi9dlxN7-gH5v0280.jpg)
Now all I have to do is turn that lot into this :D :D
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/08/006/77/5B/A4/20/x1X1LUWDm6HMUKuLZ8VEqhaLsmgdbJlt01F4.jpg)
More as soon as I finish reading .
Shane
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Hi Shane
Good luck with the build ;)
Please keep us informed as to progress, as I am sure that many like me would love to tackle this model one day
Brad
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Please keep us informed as to progress
Oh you will regret saying that ! ;D ;D ;D ;D
When I do online builds of model planes you might as well be sat in the workshop with me. I take pics of everything and ask questions like they are going out of fashion LOL .
Its nice to have a worldwide back up of more experienced boat builders than ones self .
One thing I ALWAYS bow down to is experience and this forum seems to have a great deal of that .
LOOK OUT chaps ;D ;D
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Shane, I built a Chris Craft `Cobra` very similar to yours. Took a long time, and much hard work, but resulted in a beautiful boat. When I can find the photos, I will post a couple. Pete M
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Hi all, I have a Dumas kit of the Pusher tug American Beauty and also helped a friend with his kit of the Cobra. Mainly in identifying the parts. Still unbuilt though!
I have to say that the quality of the wood in these 2 kits + the barges to go with the tug is very poor and I stopped building my American Beauty as I was going to have to discard a lot of the wood superstructure. The fittings were very low quality and after a long search I found an internet address for Dumas and contacted them, they replaced a lot of them.
Have things improved with the kit you have?
I would very much like to build a speed boat, and Dumas have a great selection, but I have been put off by my experience with American Beauty.
Also Perkins import Dumas kits into the U.K. and I cannot speak too highly of the gratuitous service they gave me in 2001.
regards to all Roy
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Don't think I've seen a Dumas kit for years, but a friend built one a while ago and had to replace most of the wood, the ply was like reject stuff from a skip outside a packing case company. Same friend also had a PT109 kit from another US company, the wood was just as bad, and he bought it after reading a good kit review in an American magazine. And to think we all complain about the wood that Billings use, their stuff is vastly better than what I've seen from these two US companies.
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Also Perkins import Dumas kits into the U.K. and I cannot speak too highly of the gratuitous service they gave me in 2001.
regards to all Roy
Dare I suggest that the word you wanted there might have been 'gracious' rather than 'gratuitous' Roy?
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Hi Shane,
Buy various grade sandpaper - ranging from Badgers a*** to babies bum.... ::)
Use a good waterproof glue! ( Recommendations anyone? )
Martin.
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Just goes to show how kits differ. The wood for my cobra was excellent, although as Martin says, you have to work hard to get the final desired finish. Pete M
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Glues I were planning on using as far as it goes at the moment.
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/001/7F/BC/E3/07/Dzgc77Y4pgpMX21fvxjQmK+eeXsFcWQB0280.jpg)
Aliphatic resin (like white wood glue )
which according to the following label IS waterproof after its dried ::)
(http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/005/6E/D7/FD/A9/7PEPlCP9PsSiScezCQyjEYc7SeNfospU0280.jpg)
This along with the usual assortment of CA both thick and thin and varying epoxies 5 min, 30 min and higher .
I think this should suffice for the time being but if anyone knows differently ..............
Regarding the quality of the wood .
I would say 90% is excellent with only the mahogany ply being found wanting in quality. One of these ply sheets contains the broken section which I am going to have to remake anyway but as its never going to be seen once the deck is fitted I may repair .
Why would they use mahogany ply on a section that is hidden from view and not lite ply ?
One thing that does disappoint is the fact that all the parts are cnc cut and not laser cut as I thought when ordering the model . I hate those squashed edges >:(
Oh well I fully expect to get started tomorrow afternoon so will update as I go ;)
Thanks for replies chaps
Shane
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hi,
I have used that aliphatic glue with good success, but i now use Bostik exterior waterproof wood glue - cheaper if memory is right, and works fine
Ian
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A friend suggested using Cascamite but as it takes 24 hours to go off I think this is going to be out of the question.
I will use aliphatic , CA and epoxy to stick the frame work together in whatever proportion I deem necessary .
Like I have said before I built /build Rc aircraft and the stresses those frames go through are on another scale compared to the stress on a model boat and they all seem to hang together well enough using the glues I stated above.
Obviously water proofing is not a factor in most plane builds (apart from water planes ) We were more concerned with fuel proofing them from the various noxious chemicals and their waste products from the exhaust .
Thank gawd I no longer have to travel for an hour to enjoy a hobby (was an hour to my flying site)
Just got to build her now ;)
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Shane
Lovely boat, and good luck with building it. I've used that exact same aliphatic glue and would recommend it to anyone for woodworking BUT I've had no end of problems with CA glues on resinous wood like mahogany. Whatever you do, check out the strength of CA joints on scrap bits of this wood first. Aliphatic should be waterproofed, but a couple of thinned coats of polyurethane varnish will do the trick provided that you then rough-sand any wood parts which you need to glue afterwards e.g the edges of the frames where the skinning will fit.
FLJ
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That make of aliphatic resin works very well, quickish grab, and will sand without a hard line, Cascamite is very good and very waterproof but can be very brittle, supper glue is ok, but not with some hardwoods . you have to test to check. I use a polyurethane glue for bits that are susceptible to a lot of wet (picture) but it is horrible to use ,wear gloves or you have it for at least a week to remember you night of modeling ,, Peter
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Hi ANMO, No, I meant 'gratuitous', as in 'freely given', tell you why.
My son was in USA and sent a kit to me for my birthday. It was the Dumas American Beauty. The shop sending it were to dispatch it via surface mail relatively cheaply. They sent it airmail at enormous cost, about the same as a single airfare! Not only did they cock this up but they SENT THE WRONG KIT.
After a lot of phone calls they said send it back and we will send correct kit. This would again cost more than the kit was worth!
I phoned Perkins and told them what had happened and asked if they had any suggestions.
This is the gratuitous bit!
The lady I spoke to said that she was going to the USA within a few days and would be seeing Dumas at a Model Trade fair and would tell them what had happened..
The upshot of this, all happening either side of the 9 / 11 terrorist event in 2001, was that Dumas supplied a kit for American Beauty and Perkins imported the kit for me and then dispatched it to the nearest model shop to me and I collected it a few weeks later, all for no charge and there was absolutely no obligation on their part to do anything.
I was told to keep the wrongly sent kit as well.
My son had paid by credit card and was refunded the cost of dispatch by Visacard.
Now I had not spent any money with Perkins so you can see that I cannot speak too highly of their gratuitous service.
regards to all Roy
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Hi there the build has started at long last !
First off a bit of preperation of the frames and the centre keel.
The parts were removed from the surrounding wood and the edges were lightly sanded to remove any rough edges (lots of >:( )
They were then marked up carefully and 1/8 sq ply was used to create small strips to support various parts during the build . Definatley a case of measure twice stick once ! I kept mixing up the centre line ,on some of these strips , with a line 1/4" away from cantre to place them ! Still I got there in the end :)
(http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/004/7B/5F/FD/A2/qV6RmmpqogSXFCMFOKvsSt7dWtVggoky0280.jpg)
Frames all prepared ready for fitting .
Next it was onto the centre keel which came in 2 halves and required gluing together to make one keel 1/4" wide . Why on earth they didnt just make it a one piece affair is beyond me .I was tempted to recut it from marine ply but didnt have any to hand in the required thickness so opted to do it as per the book .
(http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/10/008/6D/DF/FB/E8/mxfgrstTQSDlMIXTQ4p47Lq5Ve5xM5Ec0280.jpg)
centre keel glued together .
While waiting for that lot to go off I started on joining the 2 sheer halves together ,again why 2 pieces when 1 would have been easy enough to cut :-\
(http://shutter03.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/008/1F/FA/17/82/iFebn8198tvl+3aD6z13Cc9x5GSQOmj30280.jpg)
Sheers glued
Then after a couple of hours to allow it all to dry properly I started on fitting the frames into place paying carefull attention to the angles of each one as it was glued into place .
I tacked them into position first with thick CA . FLJ you are correct CA and mahogany dont like playing together
But it did hold while I used the aliphatic around and between the joints .
(http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/006/56/DD/14/F2/GCNnZ9pORjuC+I-KosD98e90vbC-QaDn0280.jpg)
And this is where I am up to now
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/14/00A/74/7E/70/EE/lVHlXwqWDBKNAjCp4ra4kmvXd7dt659N0280.jpg)
All the frames fitted and setting solid overnight . :D
Tommorow I have to fit the Chines which should prove interesting as it involves laminating 3 strips of 1/8 x1/4 x 45" of spruce together down the whole length of the framework . I may ,having thought about it ,glue about 2" together at one end and then glue the rest as I am progressing down the length of it thereby allowing each piece to pull along each other as it is going so removing any unnecesary stress while its being curved .
More soon
Shane
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Here we go again.
Main job today was to get the chines completed and in between Ca'ing my fingers a few times I managed to get the 3 strips stuck to each other and epoxied into their respective positions as I worked along the hull
(http://shutter03.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/009/5F/FF/9C/F1/V75gJ4bVpeUiJpUGij+aRg0eNuiPrmsg0280.jpg)
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/006/7B/BD/B5/76/kjFpiMjk7L+yXt5+Xl4rGK33wyNNvyVG0280.jpg)
Once this was completed I could actually take her off the building board for the first time and get a look at the shape of her
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/006/37/F7/4A/0E/Y7dK3G4-lGRzPpWPcGnSVeNH68arc0+h0280.jpg)
(http://shutter03.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/10/006/6F/EF/4F/51/4YrmQtCc5EEepnHD-MrrWZ5BwPWu5SRb0280.jpg)
Next up I have started on the sub planking which is 1/8 ply . As you can see I have had to add a bit of weight to it to keep all the epoxied surfaces together while it dries and am not looking forward to doing the front end as the bends are quite sharp . I am not sure how I am going to tackle that one as yet so if you have any ideas please shout loudly ! ;D
(http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/002/6D/E3/63/43/FoWGtM2J4jeGwHhyKkHfZuCtP7vhsWyx0280.jpg)
More as and when I get time in the coming week , working 6 till 6 each day really slows things up a lot >:(
Shane
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Hi,
You might think about diagonal planking the sub ply for the sharp curve in the bow.
Ian
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How are you finding the CA (superglue) holding?
On the Puffer build, I found the ply joints could be easily prised apart, ie. the glue always gave way before the wood..
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hi there Shane
In the plans for your model, how does it tell you to plank the hull at the bow? Before we add a comment, it would be best to have some idea of how its described in the instructions - because our ways may be different to your plans ;D
aye
john e
bluebird
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Thanks for replies chaps ;)
Apologies for the standard of the pictures but I have rushed to get them before the light fails tonight :(
The first pic is where I have got to at the moment and its the top plank that is giving me grief
(http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/10/005/7F/7D/E8/13/ehXUZtXpzYGBZpXUBypejKf7p0Yv7SbP0280.jpg)
The picture doesnt show it that well but the plank goes from almost horizontal at the back to aboout 70/80 degrees at the front and this is quite a twist in a piece of 1/8 ply !
The second pic shows the bow planked and as you can see the rest of the planking is going to be ok its just lengths of strip balsa .
(http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/006/7E/FB/34/57/GdHM8gjlpEEWotlHrXt-z7dEoqxJqgEa0280.jpg)
I was considering doing the same for the awkward bit as balsa is a lot easier to twist around and as its in 1/2" wide strips it might be the way to go .
What do you think ? Is there any reason why its got to be ply ? Or could I cut myself some ply strips on the bandsaw and plank it like the rest ?
Thanks again
Shane .
Ps this is all new to me having never built a boat before !
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Martin I forgot to add
I have just about given up on CA I am using it for tacking parts together and then using either aliphatic or epoxy to stick them solid ;)
Shane
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Though you might be having the same problem with the Superglue, must be the glue used in the ply...
Another good glue is SUPER' PHATIC, a sort of "super" pva glue. Quite quick I've found, very thin so seeps into joints and supfaces very well too. http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/system/index.html (http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/system/index.html)
Try dampening the wood with a wet cloth to "help"b it bend.
Martin
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Thanks for the link Martin
I will be spending some hard earned there soon ;)
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Shane, just to ensure I understand this right :
We will say, starting at the bow and first frame back from the bow - we will call this number 1 and
when you reach number 5 frame this is where your planking of the bow terminates. From then on it is sheet plywood to the stern of the boat. Is there external planking over the top of your first layer of plywood and planks? (possibly mahogany planking?).
If you are finding it difficult to plank with the half inch 1/8" strips of plywood, you may stick the plywood in boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes. This will soften the plywood and enable you to bend it.
Another alternative is, instead of using 1/2" wide strips by 1/8" try cutting down the width of the plank to 3/16" the narrower plank will allow you to follow the flare of the hull easier and it will also allow the twisting of the planks.
hope this is of some help.
aye
john e
bluebird
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We will say, starting at the bow and first frame back from the bow - we will call this number 1 and
when you reach number 5 frame this is where your planking of the bow terminates. From then on it is sheet plywood to the stern of the boat. Is there external planking over the top of your first layer of plywood and planks? (possibly mahogany planking?).
100% correct John
The complete model is planked over with mahogany strips after this sub planking .
I will try the boiling in water first and see if this overcomes it failing that the narrower planks seem like the best way to go .
Thanks for the help its appreciated
Shane
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Or you could use 1/16 planking and use two layers.
I built a scratch mtb with a similar problem at the bow, I used sheet to where the bends got stiff, then went to diagonal planks, its much easier to follow the curve that way.
Ian
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Thanks Ian I appreciate ALL replies I always bow down to experience .
Having never planked a model before its a seriously steep learning curve and one which I dont really want to screw up .
I will work out what I am going to do this week and update on my decision based on trail and error OFF the boat ;)
Gawd if this was a plane it would be sheeted by now and getting ready for fibreglass covering ;D ;D ;D
Shane
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Good idea that, experiment on a mock up first.
Ian
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I got back from work tonight at about 7pm so it was straight down the workshop to sort out the final subplanking.
I epoxied the 2 outers on and with plenty of masking tape managed to get these 2 fitted correctly .
(http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/008/5B/FE/87/00/WSmuOXuDBhUMwbk3zE+b2EVDwq76La+M0280.jpg)
The 2 problematic inner ones I steamed with a wallpaper stripper for 5 minutes and then layed them out as in the picture below and hopefully tommorow they should retain the shape :-\
Even if they dont they may be bent enough for me to clamp them onto the hull .
Time will tell ::)
(http://shutter03.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/005/37/6F/58/5A/GeFaNyXHsLwAPMKueRpMdWyNKNqGYmhp0280.jpg)
Sorry about the second picture I had to use my phone as my camera battery died :(
More soon
Shane
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It worked fine
The twist I had put into the strips during the week made it easy to fit the final sections into place ;)
(http://shutter12.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/01/003/77/FB/20/0D/SuinHJFYCl13cy+138Rog0mIYupoHj5N0280.jpg)
So it was onto the planking which in this case is 1/2/" x 1/8" balsa .
Having never done anything like this before I took my time with it and here you can see the first planks going on
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/005/3B/BE/6F/21/JHOnctPOyAZufi8ZrP6C1hXpQ6RHOTyZ0280.jpg)
I soon ended up with a fully planked model .
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/003/3F/F3/79/7F/QM1K6KPmPNaOxf5c8aBghR+Er4XM766P0280.jpg)
(http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/15/005/6D/FE/EC/79/ewjHTWZTnxUDJFAdIql6lhrLIqgKSdI+0280.jpg)
Ok I know its not perfect and definatley not the best job in the world but for a first attempt I am really rather pleased with how its gone today :D
I have also fitted hard balsa blocks in the front of the bow which I have rough cut to shape and then the whole thing is going to get a good sanding down to smooth it out .
More soon
Shane
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Hi,
That looks real good. With work you should get a really good hull out of that, the shape looks good to me.
Ian
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OK I get mixed up with leccy stuff , to be honest it confuses the life out of me and I cant get my head around it at all.
But have been sourcing a motor and associated gear for this one and have come up with the following .
MFA - Torpedo 850 Motor power pack 1115ESC
MFA Torpedo 850 6-12v motor power pack for large boats. Complete with Digital electronic speed controller with BEC and reverse (6-12v input, 30 amp continuous current)
Includes motor and mount, electronic speed controller, coupling, prop, fused wiring harness, servo linkage, and full suppression.
Typical current draw: 5.3 amps
12.0V 3700mAh SC NiMH Battery Pack.
High capacity, fitted with standard “Tamiya” style connector on
very flexible, high current leads - 50A discharge capacity .
Does this sound/look right ? Dont go getting technical on me it will hinder me more than help .
If its not right please feel free to suggest (based on experience not heresay) any make and combination that would work if mine is wrong .
Thanks
Shane
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sounds as though it could work to me
Ian
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Hi Shane,
Great build, makes me want to build one myself!
I've had a look on the Dumas website , they recommend "Power #2025 High Speed Electric Motor" - which looks suspiciously like an ordinary 540 / 550 / Speed 600 type motor.
(http://www.dumasestore.com/catalog/images/2025.jpg)
Dumas Boat Motor 6V 10,000 RPM #2025
Item Description:
A great little high speed electric that can be used in lots of projects. This is the motor we use to power our Chris Craft line of models. Includes mounting brackets and complete coupling for 1/8" shaft.
If so then your proposed MFA - Torpedo 850 would either;
a) Rip the boat in two...
b) Sink her...
c) Not be fast enough on a scale / small propeller.
I would go for a much smaller and faster motor, maybe the;
Stingray 500 Power Pack with on/off Microswitch.
Pt No. 1112P RRP £29.95 inc VAT
Stingray 600 Power Pack with on/off Microswitch.
Pt No. 1116P RRP £30.95 inc VAT
Stingray 500 Power Pack with DigiPro Electronic Speed Controller.
Pt No. 1112PESC RRP
Stingray 600 Power Pack with DigiPro Electronic Speed Controller.
Pt No. 1116PESC RRP
....other opinions anyone? ::)
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Superior knowledge shines through!
I am not worthy , oh mayhem one! ;D
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Still not sure
I have googled the stingray option and according to the link below the 600 is only suitable for 16"-21" models
This one is 41"so not going to commit to buying one as yet . http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MFA-STINGRAY-600-MARINE-POWER-PACK-INCL-NICAD-BOATS_W0QQitemZ120111254300QQihZ002QQcategoryZ140972QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MFA-STINGRAY-600-MARINE-POWER-PACK-INCL-NICAD-BOATS_W0QQitemZ120111254300QQihZ002QQcategoryZ140972QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem)
That said I will have to get something sorted real soon as I need to sort out a motor mount and then I intend upon f/g the interior of the hull for both strength and water proofing .
Why would an 850 rip it apart ? I am struggling to understand boats and the associated terminology . Surely if its built strong it will take it ?
Again I bow down to superior knowledge Its a new area for me :)
Shane
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I was just wondering / concerned as Brian on the "Ormesby Cross" thread has used two Torpedo 850 motors in his big heavy tug!
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2322.msg37269#msg37269 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2322.msg37269#msg37269)
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Thanks for your help Martin .
I have just ordered a graupner 600 BB sp 9.6V motor and an Mtronik viper20 marine controller . Along with a 9.6V nimh pack . :D
These should get here for the weekend so I can start sorting out where I am going to fit them before resin coating the inside of the hull . Then its a load of sanding to smooth the outside down :'(
More soon and thanks again
Shane
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Hi Shane,
I admire your patience to start a build such as that one. I also am envious that you have the time to start a build like that one!!
Good luck with it, seems to be progressing well so far. As to motors, I am not an expert on electric power, but form my experiences in the past it has never been too much of a chew on to change motors in electric boats, so with the skills you clearly have it should not be too much of an issue for you to replace a motor if it is too small (Or big maybe?)
Good luck.
Glenn
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I also am envious that you have the time to start a build like that one!!
Your joking aren't you !
I work 5 days a week from 6.30 am to 6 pm and 6 hours on a Saturday morning painting cars . At the end of the day I am usually too knackered to do any modelling :D
The only modeling time I get really is on a sunday so really time is precious and I try and do as much as I can each time .
Thanks for the compliments though :)
Shane
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Your joking aren't you !
I work 5 days a week from 6.30 am to 6 pm and 6 hours on a Saturday morning painting cars .
Shane
Right boys ( and ladies! )
This IS going to be the best model boat paint job EVER! :o
Martin
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Your joking aren't you !
I work 5 days a week from 6.30 am to 6 pm and 6 hours on a Saturday morning painting cars .
Shane
Right boys ( and ladies! )
This IS going to be the best model boat paint job EVER! :o
Martin
I just don't think it's going to look quite right in Candy apple red somehow Martin!!
Glenn
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Well I have no experience of painting model boats but I can post a couple of pics of my painting on model planes .
First up a cessna 182 Skylane and a scheme that was new at the time (in the real world)
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/003/1A/E8/BE/01/c1OKGXykIGCYHnVQK3nRhEmNqn51j2WW01E0.jpg)
(http://shutter14.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/05/004/2F/FB/28/F2/WyOTIzGejfJYYP3v3YufFmOnP0gWFpbu01E0.jpg)
I apologise in advance for the ugly git behind the model I he has obviously escaped from somewhere :D
(http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/005/77/F8/BC/2C/YLkIqvbCUiQILOVFrk-51j5gc6hqgkmN0280.jpg)
This last one is a Yt P38 which I decided to do in the porky 2 scheme , and rather than get transfers made for the graphics I wanted them painted on as per the original . I looked around for ages and in the end I found a person on RCMF.co.uk (you need to register) who does this sort of thing (actually just starting out )
He creates paint masks on his pc and cuts them out on a plotter .
The pic shows the start of a set of japanese flags , this is in a series of 2 masks which are marked so after 1 colour is applied the second mask is put on top and the second done , result perfect japanese flags !
ALL the markings on this plane were done the same way and not wanting to praise myself it looked the dogs dangly bits !
I can give anyone contact details if they want masks done but it isnt a next day turnover . He works full time as a fireman !
If anyone is interested to know The wording above and below the jap flags is approx 2mm high !
Have fun
Shane
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Clever stuff. The planes look really nice.
Glenn
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Hi Shane,
First model boat I ever built was the wooden kit of the Perkasa Torpedo Boat. That was 3ft long, having seen a lot of "slowly moving" Perkasa fast patrol boats powered by 540 class motors (just like the one Dumas recommend) I set out to make my Perkasa plane as she should. I used what was then the MFA Marlin power pack (comprising motor, manual speed control and propeller) this was powered up by a 7.2v 1400mah buggy racing pack. The Perkasa planed beautifully rising up at the bows as per the full size vessel.
I believe the MFA Torpedo 800 is the replacement for the old Marlin motor. Have you tried emailing MFA for advice?
Hope that helps
Clive :)
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The MFA Torpedo 800 revs at 4000 rpm, the 850 close to 10000.
The 800 more suited to scale warships etc, my 6 foot destroyer has 2 of these fitted.
The Graupner 600 should give a good turn of speed with about 18000 rpm.
It might be worth under propping her and work up on prop size.
Bob
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Thanks for that Bob .I will bear it all in mind when the powerplant gets here . So far I have only got a battery to stick in it ! :
Its been a bit of a no progress but lots done day today so no pics I am afraid .
I have sanded the lot down so I now have a smooth hull to put the final planking on . I have also filled any small gaps with balsa dust and thin CA . If you havent tried this please do so . Its a great way of filling small gaps , just push as much balsa dust as you can into the gap and carefully drop thin CA onto it , it sets rock hard and fills any small gaps. It IS a right pain to sand down though so be carefull with the CA .
I have also waterproofed the inside with polyeurathane resin which needs a fair few hours to cure so the hulls been put to one side overnight.
Getting bored looking at it I decided it was time to make a stand for it so I can work on it better on the bench and at the pool .
Hmmmm where to start ?
I got hold of the excess ply the frames came cnc cut in and used two of them as templates to make mdf frames for the hull to sit on. then made a couple of cross pieces and epoxied them together . These were then rubbed smoothish (no reason for a good finish) and sanding sealer was painted on . After this it has had one coat of primer and will be painted with gloss white (from cans ) tommorow .
At least I will now have a solid base for the model to be worked on .
I forgot to add that the profile of the hull (on the stand ) is edged with styrofoam borrowed from a skip at work ;D ;D
Should be some piccys tommorow and more building ;)
Shane
ps Martin I still have no pass for the mayhem weekend :D
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Back to it !
First off the finished stand . Total build time about 45 minutes and that was allowing for the paint to dry ;D ;D
(http://shutter13.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/04/008/6A/FE/EB/59/s+NN04zRhyrk5SCU7MdBT7fIZf36ZsvT0280.jpg)
Then it was onto some serious work for the day . First job was to fix the deck formers into position on top of the frames already in the hull paying carefull attention that the engle of each was inline with the frame underneath . As you can see it took a lot of clamps !
(http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/01/003/2D/DF/2A/BB/k7S3gQQB353GXl5Q-IgSPcRAhhbyySFX0280.jpg)
Once these had had chance to set The clamps were removed and I set about fixing the stringers in place down either side of the boat . Again ,as I did on some of the planking , the 1/4" x 1/8" spruce spars were dampened and left to dry out while being held (rather crudely ) in a rough shape of the hull .
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/003/63/FB/88/30/9lBPDi4wdyHUY2lGXVCsJTqSNL1B3GRf0280.jpg)
These were then pinned and clamped into place along either side of the hull which as you can see starts at one end on the sheer then rises and then ends on the sheer at the other end.
(http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/003/37/EF/58/7C/GnsnAxL30V1fIqDgTvKyMwvz9piFCm+V0280.jpg)
Thats it for today apart from gluing the cockpit floor halves together then sanding them down and giving them a couple of coats of sanding sealer to leave a nice finish that gets painted grey at work tomorrow .
The destructions say nothing about the colour grey nor for that matter if they should be gloss,matt or satin finish so I guess I will spend a while tonight surfing the interweb and see if I can find a picture or two .
More soon
Shane
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Todays little task after finishing work was to install the cockpit sides and stain them .
So working from the front the first thing to be done was to paint up the cockpit floors which I did in the week at work with a dark grey Matt paint . I then carefully cut a small slot in the front cockpit floor and installed the throttle lever . I had toyed with making this the on/off switch but decided against it in the end due to space under the floor or rather lack of !
After the front cockpit floor was glued down I started with the mahogany veneer sheets which were sanded to fit and epoxied into place with loads of clamps and pins . I worked down the model doing all 3 cockpits and once happy with them gave them all a rub down with light sandpaper to remove any epoxy or rough spots . They HAD been sanded down on the bench before fitting but a quick rub over gave peace of mind.
(http://shutter15.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/07/007/3F/1B/10/94/eSrhBEWLGwmXUDu++A6vE50KcErCT9Ev0280.jpg)
Then it was time to stain them with a water based stain that came with the kit and required mixing in water as it came as a powder .
OK I know what you are thinking "water based stain ?? "
I had the same reservations myself , even more so when the destructions called for a water based clearcoat over the top !
Anyway I stained them with the supplied stain and after it had dried (about 10 minutes in this heat today) I started looking around the shed for a clearcoat and happened upon some Ronseal gloss clear . That will do the job
The first coat is on and needs 6 hours before re coating , which it will need as the mahogany has drunk all that I gave it !
(http://shutter04.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/002/7C/F2/01/79/3EDw6KeuMIz6oKtxki0PkAwqb9jTpWef0280.jpg)
The stain looks a nice colour anyway
I plan on a bit more building before the second coat of clear is applied in the morning then clear coat and leave overnight again
More soon
Shane
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Another couple of coats of varnish have been applied to the inside cockpits and have dried so its all systems go on the building again.
I built up the engine compartment cover and a similar hatch at the stern for access to the rudder and servo.
(http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/08/009/13/FF/2B/84/+DG-vGfVzJVFkpmcfKNWci71nctPaaiC0280.jpg)
These were then removed from the hull and the deck subplanking was stuck down
(http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/009/7D/EF/47/6C/lMOftp9uhFEi0ZLHIxQd3Du2XhPUzL300280.jpg)
Now then how to fill in the gaps on top of the sheer ? I followed instructions and built them up with 1/8" x1/2" balsa strips like so
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/005/5F/FD/A7/7C/-0UjZYz-u-Hx5i68Eot-m27j5-18gqYk0280.jpg)
These were then sanded down to the correct profile along the length of the hull using templates provided in the kit that are placed at each frame so you can check the profile as you go along .
That leaves me with this
(http://shutter03.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/00A/72/8C/5C/EC/ndEgPJQpHEH-2YG-I7BR7p5HGYWOY7Y20280.jpg)
and from the rear showing off the barrelback shape
(http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/009/38/F7/B5/09/QrqPEgS4MQBcNAgFAHIs3diRDYNLThem0280.jpg)
Then the whole thing got a good sanding over to creat a nice smooth finish ready to accept the mahogany planking and to make sure the hatches sit nice and flush with the rest of the decking .
Thats all for today folks next up its mahogany planking time :o
Shane
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Hi there Shane
I am answering your question about diagonal planking in mahogany on this build thread. Bearing in mind this is the method that I used and it may be entirely different to anyone else's. As fullleatherjacket says, 'if it suits you then use it'.
The material I used was supplied by JoTika Limited. The mahogany planks were 5mm wide by 1/2mm thick.
The glue I use was EvoStick waterproof PVA. Also, very thin dressmaking pins. I roughly marked off, in the centre of the hull, the mid-section. Drew from the keel to the gunnel and in your case it will be from the keel to your chine edge and drew a 45 degree angle from the keel. The first plank was laid following this line I had marked on the hull and glued it and then held it in place with dressmaking pins. From that first plank, I worked 5 planks to the front of the boat and 5 planks to the back of the boat. That therefore gave me 11 planks in total.
I then turned the hull around and did exactly the same to this side (I repeated what I had done on one side to the other side).
When the 22 pieces of timber had dried, I went back to my first side which I had started at. I glued five more planks towards the bow, five more planks to the stern on that side - turned the hull around and repeated the process on the opposite side. By this time the glue had dried on the set of planks on the opposite side. Thus allowing me to carry on.
When I had finished planking the external planks, I light-sanded off to remove all hollows and bumps. One mistake I made, I should have filled in the small holes that some of the dressmaking pins leave. Because, when I epoxied the hull, I found my first coat would not penetrate/flow into the holes of the dressmaking - I had to staple hard the epoxy into the holes to fill them.
Ive included a couple of photographs which may give you some help.
If you need any more help, or you dont understand give a shout.
aye
john e
bluebird
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John many Thanks for that I understand how you have done that perfectly ;)
The only difference I am experiencing is that the planks are 1/8" (2mm ish) x 1/2" so are quite substantial to bend to the shape of the hull . Also they run from bow to stern in one complete length with stealers cut to fill in the gaps at the bow where it would be impossible to bend the planks to fit properly.
I think I may well try either steaming them or soaking in 50/50 ammonia /water mix for a few hours to soften them up a bit and give myself a fighting chance .
I have started on this planking already but only so far as 4 planks up from the chine and anything else will HAVE to have some serious softening to get it to follow the bow lines.
Practice makes perfect though and if I cock it up I can always re-doe it again .
Thanks again for the answer
Shane
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I have been having a think about this and have come to the opinion that this mahogany I have is way to robust for the job in hand and as such will be contacting Jo-Tika in the morning and getting some ordered that is going to be more use to me . The 0.5 mm or 1mm would be easier to work with than this 1/8" I have here.
I am off down the shed now to have a measure up and count of the strips I have with the kit .
Shane
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Ok I will own up and let you all know that 2 of the planks I had fitted have sprung loose :'(
So it was time to have another go with what I have got in the box , figuring it must be the right stuff or it wouldnt of been packed !
So Not getting hold of any ammonia as places I went to didnt have any I looked around for another way of bending these strips and seem to of hit upon a cunning plan :D
I found that if I hold my soldering iron in a vice and when hot run the plank over it while bending it to the rough outline needed it tends to hold its shape quite succesfully . Care of course must be taken to not actually burn the wood so keeping it moving at all times is a must.
This is where I am at now ..........
(http://shutter04.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/05/008/79/7F/D7/76/o9GH0o9dw9V3widJJiXDV9kO3KTm0erp0280.jpg)
This pic shows a crudely made jig shaped to the hull which when taped tighly holds the planks flat on the hull .
(http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/007/7F/F6/D2/3F/Mn554TOO7by8iCeFwHbLFnrkXGmhwzAy0280.jpg)
(http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/009/3F/B5/8B/14/425NHYBdg1WU-MI7Xfc8wjgPlwSeBxja0280.jpg)
The small triangular section will be cut to shape once the side is covered with as many full planks as I can fit .
I anticipate a lot of sanding and shaping of small pieces as I climb higher up the hull .
More tomorrow
Shane
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Sorry for the lack of updates but the camera battery died !
As it stands at the moment I am a trifle peed off ! I have been trying to get these 43" long planks fitted and its taking a very long time due to the twists in the wood , meaning that every plank has to be clamped into place and allowed to set before moving onto the next one . I.e one plank a day >:(
Now after re reading the instructions on the last page I read this " on the original the planks were usually 12" or 24 " long and there is no reason why the model cannot be built along the same lines " !! WTF ! I could of finished it by now if that had been made clear before starting this planking ! Now I am stuck as I cannot do this on the other side as it would look weired , so am stuck with another week + doing the same to the other side !
I think my next build I am going to go with my intuition and sod the destructions !!
More soon
a slightly peed off..
Shane
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Well not to be outdone, and while quietly thinking of removing what I had done and using smaller lengths of planking to make life a darn site easier for myself ,I decided to carry on and perservere with the full length planking I had started .
I twisted a few to match the shape of the bow and started again.
I now have this :D
(http://shutter12.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/03/00A/7F/5A/67/F7/1GVjFtceIAA99-VTv3lk+eTTonZoIuuA0280.jpg)
I also started on trying to bend 3 lengths of Mahogany planking almost 90 degrees to follow the shape of the bow . Luckily a jig was provided and it was a matter of gradually bending them. To do this I soaked 3 12" strips in warm water for about 10 minutes and pinned one end to the bench against the jig . Using a hot travel iron I basically ironed the plank slowly around the curve ,pinning it as I went . When dry it was virtually the shape I wanted so I did the other 2 the same way .
Then to finish it off I soaked them again and pinned all 3 to the jig and will leave them overnight to dry out naturally.
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/005/36/6F/C3/EA/gu0cl1Qwhyvps1HlRYjAlAA95PYRrDGg0280.jpg)
More soon
Shane
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As an afterthought What is that piece I have just bent known as ? Its called a stern post in the instructions but by my definition thats the wrong end !!! It runs down the front centre keel and up the bow .
Shane
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Its the stem! (I think!)
Ian
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Well its been a while since my last update so I suppose I should show you how far I have got !
I have (at last) finished the hull planking and it has had its first sanding downto lose the rough edges and get some curves back onto her .
(http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/006/5B/FD/23/8F/rIkXW+gGB9Cq3TmJAhRWGJ-4N50bYhzS0280.jpg)
(http://shutter09.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/009/2F/DF/C2/AA/8dtSOjJrcTcyFvFlDw6fwENfpYwkbzVc0280.jpg)
Ignore the grey looking areas they are mahogany wood filler which I had a try out with before commiting it to the model . Its mahogany colour before sanding but turns this grey colour afterwards . Not to worry though because it does stain quite nicely and is barely noticable after a couple of coats .
More soon ...........
Shane
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seeing as the weather has been glorious today I took the plunge and epoxied the stem post onto the hull strip by strip and held it in place while setting with copious amounts of masking tape .
(http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/005/2F/AA/FC/D6/nw9xr9JNIVe9HC9xjD6Ba7KaJGHE50LA0280.jpg)
After a couple of hours it was rock solid and sanded down to a knife edge at the front .
Then it was time to move onto a task which I was facing with a certain amount of trepidation as it has to be right first time !
Planking the deck ..
Firstly shaped sections were sanded down and trial fitted onto the deck and when happy it was out with the epoxy again and they were taped into place
(http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/10/003/7B/FA/D6/A7/5yeBxp00wyNzpllErQoMig99oOoMkIfT0280.jpg)
Once again once dry I started filling in the gaps with the supplied 3/8" mahogany strips and some 1/16" plastic strip . These were all carefully sanded down and shaped before fitting and after a few hours work I now have this :)
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/14/008/6F/BA/08/A3/q3fKlImfTkiRykdOfGbTFjjxBV8uV+EP0280.jpg)
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/003/7E/F1/09/9F/OrK8D4+vrBNIae8cbRnFujpRDRGF14oT0280.jpg)
I am happy with that and it will look fantastic once its all sanded down smooth ready for the stain .
More soon as I carry on with this during the week after work . I should get the whole deck done by next weekend and then its time to start fitting the motor and electrics .
Shane
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Starting to look something special now. Nice job. ;)
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Thats looking really nice now Shane - -keep up the good work
Ian
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realy looking good. question, did i read you write and saw you say you were going to stain the deck?
will this not also stainn the white caulkin(plastic)
realy hope not
all the best
colin
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Just a thought, but will the stain stick to the plastic? Or will it leave an edge that might flake away?
I would consider clear glass varnish.
Ian
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good points chaps .
I have tried some out with scraps and as its a water based stain once its been applied to the wood it wipes quite easily off the plastic leaving it quite clean. It soaks into the wood and dries really quickly (within minutes) so I can easily remove it from the plastic leaving no flaking edges ;)
Thanks for the thoughts though it could of saved me some trouble later on (http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/05/002/1F/7F/C8/FF/oHFGsgrPFI9tQ8Hlsf-1Lg1ogl8urnR7001A.jpg)
Shane
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Hello Shane, eagerly awaiting your next post.....Mick
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Not that much to post really , the last few evenings and weekends have been spent finishing off the top deck planking which is now done all bar sanding down (last piece went on this evening )
I also put the transom planking on this evening so untill tommorow when I can remove all the tape holding it all flat nothing to show I am afraid .
Tommorow I will take some pics of it completely planked and hopefully having a first sand down to get the curves in the right places ..
Shane
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As promised some fully planked pics for you .
I did encounter a couple of problems with a couple of the planks while sanding down . I caught the sand paper edge on a high spot of one of the thin 1/8 planks around the edge and pulled a section of it off >:( So thats where you will see masking tape in the pics holding a new piece in place while it sets !
I also had one of the transom planks spring loose from the ply sub planking so that is also reglued into place .
Anyway i waffle so here are some pics ;)
Shane
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Superb job Shane. I hope you are going to varnish and not stain? Try on a test peice, but 6 or 7 coats of good quality varnish rubbed down in between with 1200 wet/dry will make a superb finish.
If you do go that way, dilute first varnish coat 50:50 with white spirit.
Ian
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Thanks Ian but I have to stain unfortunatley as its the only way of hiding some filler on the hull . I have tried samples of yacht varnish on unstained filler and it looks naff ! but is getawayable on stained .
Still as this IS my first boat build I am well satisfied with what I have now .
Did I mention this is my first go at building a boat ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D
have fun chaps I am !
Shane
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If this is your first boat, the rest of us will be learning from you!
Ian
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Shane,
Keep posting and keep the pics coming as I have just finished cutting out the material for the hull today.........
It does look superb.........
Roy
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Hello Shane, very interested in your build. Did you purchase the kit from Dumas Products, online, and what was the cost including postage. I have browsed their website....Mick
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realy looking good. keep it up
colin
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Hi Mick sorry I have been late in replying to you .
I ordered the kit from www.modelboat.com it cost £225 (give or take on exchange rates) + £46.50 when it was delivered which covered import duty ,vat etc .
Took about 6 weeks in total from ordering to getting here and I must say I am well pleased with the compant that sold it to me .
OK then enough said here are a couple of pics that you may or may not like .
Its been stained as per the original which is NOT all one colour mahogany but 2 different shades which I have tried to replicate . It looks a bit odd at the moment but please bear with me when I say that both colours look totally different when coated with several coats of resin . They sort of contrast now (light and dark) but after the resin they almost blend from on to the other.
Oh well here goes :-\
I am off for the weekend to Weston park model air show , local to me and jam packed with traders so I can restock up on wood and stuff .
More sunday evening
Shane
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I was correct on my assumption that the colours would blend from one to the other . The first coat of resin has been applied today and it looks like I havent stained at all >:(
All the differences in colour have disappeared and it all looks the same !
I will post pics tommorow of how it is now . Its not bad looking but not what I wanted >:(
Shane
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Ok the first coat of resin has been rubbed down but before I did that here are a couple of pictures to show how the various stains all seem to of become one colour ! Oh well nothing I can do about it now so I am off down the workshop to give it another coat ;)
Shane
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Looking really great Shane
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Stunning! :o
What resin are you using?
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Thanks chaps much appreciated :)
The resin is a finishing resin by Fibretech http://www.fibretechgb.co.uk/DefaultHome.htm (http://www.fibretechgb.co.uk/DefaultHome.htm)
If using it be careful though as when its warm like it has been here it does have a tendancy to run like thick milk if over applied . (ask me how I know ::) )
So in this case its better to be sparing with it and build up gradually to a finish .
More soon
Shane
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Hi Shane, how did the trip to Weston park go?
Where will you sail the 'Triple' when completed.
I have 'won', wrong word, a plan of the Chris Craft 'Triple' on eBay.
So, your build has real interest.....keep on posting....Mick
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Ok to answer your questions
Hi Shane, how did the trip to Weston park go?
great but was extremely muddy but a good weekend non the less with loads of trade .
Where will you sail the 'Triple' when completed.
On water somwhere in the west mids I am NOT a member of any club so its gonna be a case of suck it and see :-\
I have 'won', wrong word, a plan of the Chris Craft 'Triple' on eBay.
should of asked I would of sent the plans I have to you after I have finished for nowt :-\
Ta for looking at the thread though .
now up to 3 coats of resin and 5 coats of varnish and LOTS of rubbing down :P
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I,ll chuck a pic or two up tomorrow but at the moment it is almost rubbed flat again .
Blummin eck its hard work this boat building !
It has had 3 coats of resin and 7 coats of varnish so far and I am still finding bits I have missed ! >:(
But after all this rubbing down and brush painting I will finish the boat with a product called Klasskoat which is a sprayable gloss clear coat that is epoxy based and provides a rock hard fantastic finish . I have used it before on planes and believe me when I say it does exactly what it says on the tin !
BTW KK also do paint as well as satin finishes but most of the paint colours ,for obvious reasons given they are meant for model planes , are going to be aircraft orientated . That said the UK reseller (Wayne) does do a colour matching service as well so if you are struggling for a hard to find colour with a paint that is epoxy based and fuel resistant as well try here http://www.baronpaints.co.uk/ (http://www.baronpaints.co.uk/)
Sorry if this is a blatent plug Martin but its a great product and well tested . I did a review of it verses another paint new on the scene on rcmf and tested them both to oblivion at the time . Please remove the link if you think neccesary .
Shane
BTW the final coat will be sprayed on not brushed as have all the rest (phew something I CAN do right ;D )
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On a different note I tracked down a local supplier of faux leather or leatherette to upholster the seating in .
Hm interesting I ordered the minimum quantity as I probably need 2 ft sq to allow for the inevitable cock ups I am going to have and for £5 +£2 post I got this lot !
So if any of you have any biege sofas that want recovering give me a call ! ;D ;D
Shane
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That is a truely amazing piece of wood work let alone an outstanding looking craft....wouldnt dare put it in the water after all the time you must have spent on it. Looks great esp the fine detail in the wood work ;D
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Many thanks for the compliments Fludey but its only being build for one thing and thats to get on the water with ! As regards all the time spent on it I only started building it about 8 weeks ago :-\ .
Go On take the plunge and get some wood work under your belt . The beauty of wood is that you can work it and if you cock it up you can get another piece and work at it untill its right in YOUR eyes .
BTW I was gonna congratulate you on your paintwork on a different thread but it seemed to degenerate so kept out of it . But here on this thread I say a big WELL DONE on a great finish and paint job
Shane
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Hi there Shane
I have been watching your build with great interest - I had fears you may be going to put several coats of polyester resin on the hull. I now realise you arent - and in fact you are going to finish off with a varnish which obviously you have gone well into clear finishes on hulls. One of the fears was if you had put 7 layers of polyester resin on, you may have run into some problems later on. Polyester resin isnt waterproof, but it will be when you have varnished it.
What I will comment on is the planking of the hull and the deck - I come from a boatbuilding family (lifesize boats) and Ive seen many planked boats - planked the way you are doing yours. You have done really well! Lovely job. A Feather in your cap.
john e
bluebird
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John I take that as praise indeed and I thank you .
regarding the resin I reached the decision a whiule back (after the first coat) that to totally cover it with maybe 7 layers was going to be well out of the question , it would of taken me as many years to rub smooth !
so after I were happy that it was a smooth as it was ever going to be I started using a gloss varnish (ok its a ronseal outdoor gloss ) but it gives a good finish . But if following this route please be aware of the fact it stays soft for at least 36 hours a coat regardless of what it says on the tin , so rubbing back can be a problem . After this time its better to sand back with wet and dry (used wet)
I reached my decision on the final finish after using KK for a few years and KNOW its going to be the finish I want .
Fludey I got my inspiration for the build from Ians build here . Made me want to do something similar and I think mine pales into insignificance in this case although I am proud of it so far ;D http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=213.0 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=213.0)
Thanks chaps
Shane
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oK quick update as I have been busy on it this week (evenings)
I am nearly satisfied with the sides and top deck (just a couple of minor low spots still show) so have started doing exactly the same to the bottom . This is quicker as apart from making it waterproof with just a couple of layers of resin and 4 layers of varnish its nice and flat for the most part so minimum rubbing down on this . The bottom ,up to the waterline ,is painted so as long as its a nice smooth finish that is waterproof I can hopefully start painting the bottom this weekend . This will be high build primer coat x 2 rubbed smooth and then painted with a nice rich bergundy colour , which I think will look good against the mahogany hull and gold lettering and the cream leather upholstery (still got to work that one out !)
The whole thing is getting a couple of coats of KlassKote http://www.baronpaints.co.uk/ gloss clear coat which I will polish .
More hopefully over the weekend
Shane
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Ok the paintwork has started and here she is masked up ready to go !
(http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/009/5D/79/31/0D/JwwTxCw-TPNWBA2TR33dMCPWOYXE3AjE0280.jpg)
I should say that it was rubbed down with a red scotchbrite pad (like a washing up scourer)before any paint was applied to give the primer something to key to . This was then wiped over with a low VOC thinners to remove any grease and finally a tack rag was used to get rid of any dust .
Then it was onto high build primer , nothing special here just a Halfords one as most of it will be rubbed away it didnt make much sense paying for good stuff .
First off its dusted over very lightly to give the rest of the primer something to better stick to like so..
(http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/003/46/FA/77/30/4Xks55oIg5zikdp8gTmIfbTLywVcMZb70280.jpg)
These coats are progressivly built up slowly to allow the solvents in them to evapourate and dry out properly .If you dont do it slowly you can end up with this which I applied a little heavily along the one edge :-X
(http://shutter02.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/001/7B/DF/0A/EB/okrKQuhZIjRdCO+c7dtEp5OVvJpndqvI0280.jpg)
After this I had to leave it a couple of hours to dry thoroughly then rubbed the crazing away with 800 grade wet and dry (used wet) and the process was started again .
That left me with this
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/11/009/7F/FD/F8/A6/Ah33IGF9nnHORGawdHTvrbhcgAS5v+sc0280.jpg)
All in all 4 coats of primer which I will start rubbing back in the morning ready for the red paint ;)
Shane
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Primer rubbed smooth it was time for the red to go on .
Applied the same way as the primer the surface was degreased and tacked off to remove dust and the slowly the paint was built up in many coats untill the desired effect was achieved which you can see below !
The paint colour in actual effect is not what it looks like in the pictures but more of a burgundy colour .
Shane
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I suppose if I actually added the pictures it might help :P
See if you can spot a major mistake I have made :-X
Shane
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Superb finish!
Major mistake - no propshafts! ;D
Ian
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Beautiful paint job. How are you going to fit propshafts and rudders without messing it up ? ???
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Well spotted guys !
I noticed this when I was unmasking it and feel like a complete pratt !
Cant do anything about it now though its too late . So once its hardened off I will have to start a bit of cutting and rectification ! :'( Shouldnt be too bad to do really but dont I feel like an idiot !!
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I know! - fit an outboard! ;D
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I did wonder if you had fitted the latest in stealth drive, induced thrust transmitted through the hull?
;D ;D
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Sails ? ???
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thanks for that. you have just made me laugh, and i was feeling right umpty before.
Er, dare one ask how on earth you managed to forget the shaft AND rudders.
so what, i,m sure you will sort it out and still have a wonderfull looking boat.
at the risk of teaching you to suck eggs, cover the paint in masking tape before drilling or cutting.
Quality mistake
colin
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Colin I am happy that I made your day with my cock up ! Honest I am !
We all need a pick you up from time to time and we have all had a laugh at others mistakes i guess this was just my time to be on the recieving end ! I could of kept quiet about it and I dare say nobody would of been any the wiser thinking that the prop and rudder were later in the build , but thats not my style I cock it up I will show it and hopefully others will learn from my mistakes . I have made a few on this build (as its my forst) but they were minor and were not worth the effort of typing them in .
On a different note i have been down the shop tonight and have cut out the openings for the propshaft and drilled for the rudder . with minimum damage to the paintwork . I will still have to repaint it again or at least put a couple of coats on to blend the repair in but its easily salvageable ;)
take care chaps
Shane
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Hello Shane, worry not...I make these building mistakes all the time.
I have started my build of the 'Triple' from the plan I obtained on eBay.
I would like to see your motor/propshaft layout and location, when you reach that stage.
I have a building instruction booklet from the Sterlings Model Triple kit, however the length is only 29inches.
My 'Triple' is the same length as yours, so I would appreciate a close-up photo of the motor layout.
How, and where, are you fitting the rudder servo?
Have you decided on the motor/battery combination?
Keep posting.....regards Mick.
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well I have been and started rectification tonight and have cut out slot for the prop shaft and fitted its mounting bracket . I have also drilled a hole for the rudder .
The rudder is made from a brass square plate and you just get a template to shape it to . This was then silver soldered into a slot on the post.
I have also begun making the motor mount which is busy setting at the moment so untill thats done I cannot fix the shaft in place as I need to obviously line it all up .
Just a quick pic below to show some of the rectification .
Mick I will post some pics of the installation while and when it is doen to give you an idea . I will also take a few measurements for you so you know where you are drilling and cutting .
Again the same with the rudder servo which fits under the trap door at the back (this is an addition by Dumas and not on the original )
Motor is a Graupner 600 and battery is a tornado trc 4300 .
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Thanks Shane, the photos will be very useful.
My plan is very basic.....a drawing of eight frames and the keel....so your build is a big help.
The book of instructions which arrived with the plan is for the Sterling Models triple...not much help.
I have some experience with aircraft/boat building....however a little advice goes a long way.
I have ordered my timber from Dennis Nixon, Twigfolly....their are no model shops in my neck of the woods....Mick
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No worries Mick I will post some detailed shots over the weekend hopefully and include some measurements . I may if its any help scan the relevant pages in the instruction book and email them to you . I can always send the lot /plans and instructions when I have finished if that would be any help to you ;)
On a different note I installed the motor mount tonight the removed it as its flimsy to say the least and made one up out of 1/2" ply instead using the old on as a template so I get the angle right.
Now it gives all relevant measurments for positioning these things and where to install stuffing box and prop sfahet and how much it protrudes inboard etc etc , then proceeds to tell me how to mechanically line it all up with the motor shaft . No problem i can do that easily but then I hit a problem . The "dog bone" between the 2 connecting blocks is too short by 3/4" ! So what to do ? Do I remake the motor mount (going to be a pain as they are epoxied into position ) Or can you buy these things in different lengths ? I have one that is 1.25" and need one of 2" .
Pic below showing the shortage . Apologies its been taken with my phone as the camera battery is dead :-\
Shane
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Shane,
They are available in different lengths over here so should be available over there, but I know not where, If you cannot find any let me know and I will send a couple over...........
Roy
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Thanks Roy ,
I have been told that they are also used in RC cars and my LHS seems to sell nothing but these so I may well take a trip there this weekend .
Update as well I have been sent a diagram to tidy up the prop support a bit and its looking like quite a nice idea so keep em peeled ! Cheers for that Colin ;)
More soon
Shane
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Hello Shane,
What is the diameter of the shaft ends? I may have some R/C Buggy Dogbones kicking around you can have.
Clive :)
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You mean the round bit of the dogbone Clive ? I have not got it here in front of me and its peeing it down out there at the moment so I cant measure it accuratley . I can give a good guess at approx 1/4" though .
If its the motor shaft that is 1/8" I dont know about the prop shaft but best guess is that it is also 1/8"
Gonna get me coat on in a minute and go measure up ! (maybe :D)
Thanks for the offer Clive
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Right then time to sort out the cock up !
Firstly I have found the fittings I need in a new model shop in Stourport on Severn might have been there years I never knew it existed ! Very very helpful http://www.shop.edirectory.co.uk/model_craze/2408/index/ (http://www.shop.edirectory.co.uk/model_craze/2408/index/)
So thats one sorted ! Now onto putting right the paintwork after hacking the hull about due to my forgetfulness in not fitting a prop shaft and rudder post !
The shaft was mechanically aligned with a 1/8" piece of brass tube fitted into the ends of both couplings on the motor and shaft and marks were made screw the motor down in the correct place . This was trial fitted with just one screw to make sure everything was ok and once happy the other screws were fitted and I am happy to say everything appears to move as it should with no binding or rattling around of the prop shaft :D
Then with it all in place a mixture of epoxy and micro ballons was prepared and forced into all the gaps around the shaft (this has previously been roughed up to allow a better bond) . On the outside I had applied masking tape all around the edges and over the hole as I didnt want it running through onto the hull surface.
Once dry I turned her over and filled the gaps on the outside and flaired the shaft into the hull with a strange product that I have never used before , it's an epoxy filler that you activate by kneading the 2 parts together for about 10 mins . This was pushed into any remaining gaps and roughly shaped around the shaft . Once dry in about 1 hour it was sanded to shape with 240 grit paper and 2 coats of high build primer applied .
That was yesterday. Today I rubbed back all the primer smooth and also the entire painted surface of the hull with 800 grade wet and dry (used wet) This was then cleaned off and the hull was remasked for a fresh couple of coats of paint . In the pics you will see a fine band of tape around the edge this is 3M fine line tape which creates a knife edge finish and is quite fexible so you can bend it around different shapes .
Then after finishing the masking it was repainted after de greasing and tacking off .
Pheeeew ! Thats that little lot finished (again) .
This will now sit there and harden off fully over the course of the week and the only thing left to do to the exterior paintwork is to paint a thin white stripe along the waterline and then spray the clearcoat !
anyway enough waffle some pics ............
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Hello Shane, pleased to note you have overcome the problems, looks fine now.
When you have time I would appreciate a close-up photo of the motor, ESC, wiring layout. Without sounding rude...what length is your propshaft/prop.
I have started my Triple, and now need to decide on the motor/prop, etc.
Keep posting, do you know of any boat related model shops in the Powys/Shropshire area, I live on the border, and obtain most boat items by mail order...Mick
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Mick I have taken a load of pics from the plans for you showing all you ask can you pm me your email address please and I will forward them to you .
PS 3.6mb so I hope you aint on dial up !
Shane
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Hello Shane, who/where did you purchase your motor/ESC/ batteries from?..... and is this setup powerful enough.
I have considered a twin motor arrangement, but I am not looking for speed...just as long as she moves along nicely...Mick
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Hi Mick
I brought the motor and ESC from Westbourne models and the battery from Overlander .
As for is this set up powerfull enough ? I think it should be as its above and beyond what is reccomended for it by Dumas . Time will tell ;)
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What set up did you get Shane or is it a secret.
Got over the propshaft and rudder problem nicely, very neat.
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Hi Richard Thanks for that it turned out OK in the end :D
set up is ........
Battery is a Tornado trc4300 nimh .9.6v pack.
On the front of the pack it says constant discharge 25-35 Amp . Burst (10 sec) discharge 35 Amp.
The motor is a Graupner speed 600 BB
Nominal voltage is 9.6V
range 7.2-12V
idle current drain approx 0.8A
current drain at max efficiency 6.6A
Blocking current drain 55A
The ESC is an Mtroniks viper marine 20
20 Amp current limit
6-12V input
Should be up to the job ;)
Shane
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Well as my long awaited trip to RAF Cosford today to go to the large model airshow there ,which is usually one of the best of the season , was cancelled due to the appaling weather .I took the opportunity to spend some more time on the build.
This is it the final coats of KlassKote clear finish.
KlassKote is an epoxy based clearcoat which is totally waterproof and fuelproof and sprays like a dream . So really it was the only choice for me as I have used it before to great effect.
So it had a quick rub down with 1200 wet and dry and then degreased and tacked off to remove any dust .
Then it was on with 3 coats of this with a 20 min flash off time between them .
This finish is rock hard once cured in about a week (even though touch dry in 1 hour ) .
So then it will be taken to work and if there are any marks in it caused by dust settling on it I can machine polish them out .
Phew No more rubbing down ;D ;D
Shane
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Beautiful, wonderful finish you sure you haven't made one befor Shane.
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hmmm - that is a superb finish - well done!
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Hello Shane, terrific finish, well done....I have ordered my motor and fittings, prop etc, from Westbourne, very helpful guy.
I have completed the basic structure, frames/keel, on my 'Triple'.....feeling well pleased...then noticed the keel at the bow had warped. Spent ages cutting through the side stringers and realigning the formers....finally satisfied that all is well. Thanks again for the photo's, of the motor/prop setup. I have gone for the single motor as this is my first build of this type. Keeping it simple....Mick
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Thanks chaps comments are much appreciated .
No Richard this is my first ever go at boat building . I have been building planes for years though ;) :D
Shane
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Ok a small update here .........
I was disatisfied with a small part of the top deck which bothered me , if I didnt show you it you would never know it was bad but being the person I am I took it upon myself to rub it down again (knowing I would never be happy with it) and took the easy fix of taking it into work this morning and giving it (another) final coat of laquer in the spray booth (dust free) .
I will have a look in the morning before deciding its good enough for me to say enoughs enough and finish the build .
In the mean time I have been looking into how to upholster the seating on this one and after a few goes at trying to stick the faux leather onto the abs blanks I now realise that faux leather and evo stick dont get on at all ! The solvents melt the leather :-\
So I have another plan which involves making ply backings for the seats and seatbacks and then stapeling the leather onto the ply .
Will it work ? I dont now but time will tell .
I have the next week off from work (from saturday) so hopefully I can get this finished .
Someone told me they sail in Netherton (about 10 mins away ) so if you are reading this can you reply and we can arrange a test sail of it later next week ? Sorry I forget who it was :-[
Shane
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what part of the country ?? Netherton there are a few.
Peter
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netherton west mids
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Well I am happy with it now and am NOT going to rub it down again ;D ;D
I have tested my method of applying the leather with staples and it looks like its going to be a go'er .I will assemble the seating this weekend and hopefully get the motorand working bits installed and working .
Shane
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That is utterly fantastic. I'm speechless. What a superb job. Well done
Ken
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heading over with paint stripper.
so jealous, wonderfull job
colin
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Hi there, just wondering 'what did you serve your time as? a French Polisher? ;D' amazing truly amazing and just to think you are going to put that boat in the water - I would put it in a glass case surrounded by armed guards ;D ;D
aye
john e
bluebird
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Thanks all
and just to think you are going to put that boat in the water
No other reason for building it really , just a load of wood and time spent for one reason only ,to sail her .
I have seen other builds on here that to be honest beggar belief in the detailing people use and I bow down to their vastly superior knowledge and experience .
To my mind the only thing this has that others dont (or the majority of them ) is a nice shiney exterior .
The build has been fun (I LOVE building) and at times hard work but its just a model and the next one will be better ;)
Shane
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Wow !!
What a finish Shane, you're not really going to get it wet ?
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Brilliant Shane. Ive got my shades on and the finish is still dazzling me. 8) :P
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Hello Shane, got my motor running, MFA850, ESC etc, the Chris Craft Triple is still a basic frame, am inspired by your finish. Will be interested in the cockpit seating arrangements and the construction thereof. Mick
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Thanks for the nice comments chaps .
Today I started on the seating but had a bit of a disaster with my methods ::) I successfully epoxied ply backs into the supplied plastic seats and then tried stapling the leather to them . Unfortunately my staple gun is a bit OTT for this type of thing and proceeded to break the ply when shooting a staple into it . Oh well I have tried another method , this time fitting birch rails around the hollow inside edge of the seat parts to take the pressure of the staple gun . These are drying at the moment so hopefully tomorrow I should have some pics to show . Then its time I got the leccy bits installed ;)
Mick on those pics I sent you have a look at the layout of the battery esc and motor and you will see the main battery runs down one side of the hull . Is this normal ? seems to me that it would make the whole thing heavy on one side and make it list ! I am going to fit mine across the hull above the prop shaft against one of the frames unless someone has some reason why I shouldn't .
Thanks chaps (http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/05/002/1F/7F/C8/FF/oHFGsgrPFI9tQ8Hlsf-1Lg1ogl8urnR7001A.jpg)
Shane
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At last the seating is built and covered , Looks a lot better than painted plastic in my humble opinion ;)
I will install these this afternoon I am currently waiting for the frames they sit on to set then they can be epoxied into place .
Shane
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Upholsterer as well, what next ?
nice neat job as usual.
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Hello Shane, the battery will provide a more stable balance 'across the boat', trial and error, plus the available space will dictate where you can place it, I expect there is a technical term in boats for this, as an aero modeller you will know how important the balance point is. You can get away with it up to a point in a boat. I have used an extra battery to achieve this in a 'Puffer' build.
Impressive seating.....make sure you can site all your electrics...have you run the motor yet...mind you with a finish like that I would just place it on the dinning room table....and admire. Mick
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Thanks Mick I will be placing the battery across the boat as was my original intention .
On the subject of CofG is there any way this can be worked out ? I have a formula for doing it with model planes and this would no way convert to model boats.
Boats must have a CofG as well and obviously the closer I can get to this the better . Any clues chaps ?
Shane
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Hello Shane, the only way I have balanced my boats, (just three of them) is to level them, on the water (bath) at the indicated waterline, shown on the plan. Worked fine, I guess fine tuning on the lake is the answer. We will now receive a definitive answer from someone who has the knowledge...Mick
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Thanks Mick .
A bit more progress today and it seems like all the little small jobs are taking up most of the build time !
Anyway the seating has been fitted along with shelving in the cockpits and also fitted a dashboard and the steering wheel. Next up was the cockpit combing (sp?) which proved a nightmare to cut and fit to get right . Dumas show you how to cut the neoprene tube with a handy little self made jig arrangement but obviously do not make any allowances for how thick the deck is now its all been finished ! So in a couple of places its a little messy , but as its superglued on I cant remove it now .
So what to do ? Hmmmmmmm if someone was sailing her he could put an arm out nice and relaxed to cover up the messy bit , and a bit of female company to do the same in the second cockpit could work . So off to toysrus and 2 willing participants were brought . Ok I am having to cut his legs down considerably but once in a pair of jeans you will never know ! ;D ;D ;D
Shane
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"I am having to cut his legs down considerably" ..... I'm not sure.... does Shane's last post need moderating? ;D[/color]
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Darn I moderated the wrong bit ! ;D ;D
You think his legs are getting harsh treatment ! Wait till I start on his Head ! Anyone notice the stupid looking hat he has on ? Moulded into this head ! Thats gotta go .
I am not totally sure about using the figures at all really . He looks too cartoony to me .
Shane
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Time to sort matey boys head out !
1st pic is of the stupid hat he has on , followed by its removal (leaving a hole in his head :-\ ) So a small piece of balsa epoxied in and then P38 bodyfiller applied (pic 2) . After I sanded some life into it I painted it black to match the rest . It looks a bit wet around the edges but will be fine one dry (pic 3) .
Next up is the running gear installation and here I am going to be needing some help as I am unsure where to fit all the bits ! Battery , RX battery , Rx ,Esc and switches. Also where do you guys stick your aerials (No rude answers please :P ) Easy in planes they just hang out the back . The aerial on this RX is longer than the boat ! Can I run it around the inside of the model i.e up one side and down the other ?
Shane
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Right enough faffing about with the dolls ! Time to fit the electrics .
After a bit of trial and error I decided where I was going to place all the various bits and various tables were made up to keep them off the hull in case of water ingress. The tables were waterproofed and when dry epoxied into their respective positions. Then using velco straps they were all positioned into their final place . I had to make an extension lead up as the cable wasnt long enough to run from the ESC to the RX but That was about the only problem I encountered .
Then was the moment of truth . Would it or wouldnt it ?
Yes it ran well after I set up the ESC and apart from everything running backwards inc rudder it was all fine .So servoes reveresd on the TX and it runing as sweet as I think it should (having nothing to reference it to)
There is a Very small squeekwhen the shaft is running slowly but as I havent greased it yet its just metal on metal noise . This should dissapear once greased.
Next up after I put the lid on it was time to start on the deck fittings so I plumped for the hardest one first , the windshields. I dreaded drilling the deck and it was a definate case of measure 5 times drill once !
Holes were drilled then the plexiglass sheet they sent was cut to shape on the bandsaw and bench sander and I ended up with 2 identical screens .
I then spent an hour ripping the workshop apart to find the length of chromed c section to make the frames out of which "supposedly" comes in the kit ! NOT!
I think to myself dont worry do something else I can always buy a small length from LHS tomorrow. So I turn the page and there is a paragraph saying they dont use the c section anymore its self adhesive aluminium foil instead !
So thats cut and fitted and now the screens are bonding to their frames untill tomorrow.
Phew ! A good day :D
Shane
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Right - thats it decided, any more wooden boats I build get sent to - - - where do you live Shane?- - - -for varnishing! ;D
Excellent job!
Ian
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Might have guessed the inside would be as neat as the outside.
Please dont put it in the water it might get scratched..
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Thanks Ian !
Might have guessed the inside would be as neat as the outside.
Please dont put it in the water it might get scratched..
Hmmm been having a think there Richard , it's not going to be as neat as it looks . I am going to move the main battery off that frame in the morning and lay it flat on the deck so it aint top heavy ! I think of things like this after I have finished ! ;D
Oh it will be getting wet tomorrow as its going in the fish pond ! I,ll probably drop it on the path on the way knowing me ;)
Shane
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Hello Shane, neat layout...I located my battery across and on the hull floor, under the second cockpit.
Have you been able to fit your rudder servo.... close to the rudder itself.
Can't wait to see the 'Triple' on the water....underway...Mick
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Yes Mick the rudder servo is hidden under a trap door at the stern
Apologies for the pic quality :-\
Shane
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Well I have moved stuff aorund a bit to getthe weight of that battery down on the floor so She aint top heavy .
I still have to add a bit of lead to the other side to stop her listing and when I find it I will do so !
(http://shutter15.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/009/5D/98/A0/DA/9mV1gICpoQ9N6vKhdoC4mhM665X1Uiqs0280.jpg)
Then it was a day of sticking all the various deck ornaments onto her .........
(http://shutter07.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/14/007/6B/68/02/0B/0aGXtAM7M-KAc5AjSqQLzBlPfCjFfp+A0280.jpg)
(http://shutter04.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/003/78/EF/E8/EE/CpoqOs-lMOIvs6wiHYEosq0rbZ2rrIog0280.jpg)
(http://shutter01.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/008/56/FF/A0/82/AYvlBWjt81UHJ77h+aLxOSHSmCMyF6WJ0280.jpg)
Thats it then .
FINISHED ;D ;D ;D ;D
I know she hasnt got any flags on yet but the paper ones they supplied are not worth cutting from the sheet .
Also I know I said she was going in the fish pond today but that can wait till tomorrow as I want to get that lead in her first .
Shane
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Whats next then Shane? ;D
Ian
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Looks really great Shane [I hate you]
Dont worry about the lead, chuck one of those sash weights in her. ;)
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Couldnt wait ! ;D ;D
Plugged the shaft and added the lead and here she is WET !
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really looks the business - next, get her going and post pics of her!
Ian
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Oh no , you've got it wet, it'll never be the same again.
Looks good though.
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why not put another battery in? wire them in parrellel. instead of lead, make the weight work for you
colin
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It is not recommended to connect nimh in parallel. It does not do them any good . In series is ok but you would have to be able to take 14.4 volts
Fred
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This boat is far too good for a rookie....
Anyone know where Shane lives so I can go round and sabotage it? ;D
Martin - Dead jealous! ::)
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Take youre turn. I'm first, unless of course he agrees to turn out yet another beut.
colin
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Cheers guys . I am mulling over the next one already as it seems I cannot get frames for the Dusseldorf fireboat from anywhere and no plans of them either :'( .
I dare say before the week is out I will of made up my mind , cant be having an empty building board makes the shed look empty ! :D :D
Shane
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cant have that
colin
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Well I have almost decided that its either going to be a scratch built Dusseldorf fireboat (could be fun ) or one of Sirmars USS Arleigh Burke ships . I cant decide which way to go .
Still after all my moaning about the MPBA not getting in touch I have had the application forms for a few days now and still havent sent them back ! My fault too much on at the moment . I,ll post them by tuesday . HONEST !
I really dont want to go sailing without the cover .
Shane
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Did you ever get any pics of this thing running, Shane?
Ian
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Ian I have had family health problems with me mom for the last 3 weeks so have not really had much interest in anything bar that .
On a plus 3 months after contacting them I have had contact back from my local boat club so if I get chance I will get it out on water in anger ;) O0 O0
Shane
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Shane,
Sorry to hear of the health problems, hope things improve for you all soon.
Ian
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Hi, I am new here. I just got my Chris Craft triple! Wow this is great! Thanks Shane
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Shane, are you happy with the motor you picked? What kind of speeds are you getting? I just started on the planking, so I have a little ways to go.
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Rebulx Sorry it has takne me a while to reply to your posts .
I have health problems at home with my mother so I cannot get on and reply like I would do normally :'(
But That said congratulations on having a go at this one it IS a struggle and can be a pain in the ass at times.
Bear in mind what I said about planking this one , I started using the full length strips and they can be a pain in the Ar$$e to fix in place . I started soaking them in water and then used a HOT iron to twist them and dry them out to get a close shape to the hull . The last page of the destructions on planking says you can use shorter lengths as per the real one ! If I were to do it again I would probably go down this route and use shorter planks .
As regards speeds it seems to go Ok with no problems and looks just fine on the pond in a scale sort of speed.
Having never built or sailed a boat before I cant give an authorative view on this but it "looked " right if that makes sense .
I hope you have fun with the rest of the build and wish you well with it O0
After that I dare say this will be my final post in here for a while as my Mom is getting a lot worse and the inevitable isnt that far off :-\
I thank all of you who have pm or emailed me over this and will see you all at the other end of the tunnel .
Take care and have a great Christmas and all the best for the new year O0
First one that says Merry Xmas gets a punch in the mouth O0 O0
Shane
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Well its been a while since I posted on this thread but this is just an update on the model .
It is now up for sale and for those who may not read the for sale board you can follow this link to it O0
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8707.0 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8707.0)
Shane