Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: pettyofficernick on June 03, 2012, 05:25:28 pm
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Good afternoon gentlemen, well, its cold and wet here in the North West UK, so no steamboat sailing for me today. Instead, I have started building my Bugsier. First job, trim the hull of excess plastic and roughly sand the edge, final sanding will take place when the deck has been fitted. Now the nerve wracking bit, a 3mm x 73mm slot has to be cut in the lower stern to accommodate the shaft support/rudder support, carefully now, we don't want to ruin the hull, I used a razor saw and it was easier than expected. Next, the various ABS parts for rudder/shaft support were removed from their parent sheet and laminated together before fixing in place with Stablit. Once set, the shaft was dismantled and the oiler fitted and drilled before fixing in position, again with Stablit. The rudder was then made up as per the instructions and fitted in place before adding the top section of the rudder tube support. all that is to be done now is a little filling and fettling to finish that part of the job. Now awaiting arrival of the motor before I can do the next episode, so here's a few photos of today's efforts.....
(http://s18.postimage.org/aqihdxdg5/Shaft_and_support.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aqihdxdg5/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/v39bqkyfr/Shaft_and_support_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v39bqkyfr/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/m1zdqppw7/Rudder_support.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m1zdqppw7/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/57rh0l4wd/Rudder.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/57rh0l4wd/)
Please ignore the mess,trying to work fast to get the Stablit in place with a stick is always a tricky job for me. Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative to Stablit, epoxy doesnt seem to work very well with ABS.
Regards,
Nick. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Going well so far, as for the Stabilit try Modelbond Gel from Modelboatbits. Absolutely amazing stuff, you could use it to build a house it's that strong, and it'll stick to just about anything.
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Just looked at the ebay shop and copied the write up for it ..........
FAST SETTING - NON DRIP - GAP FILLING - WATERPROOF ADHESIVE GEL MASTIC
310ml CARTRIDGE APPLIED BY MEANS OF A STANDARD MASTIC GUN
EXPANDS SLIGHTLY DURING CURING GIVING EXCELENT GAP FILLING BOND
SPECIALLY FORMULATED FOR MODELBOATBITS THIS GEL ADHESIVE BONDS MOST
MODEL CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL'S: AIRCEL BOARD, WOOD, PLASTIC, POLYSTYRENE
GRP, STYRENE (HIPS) PLASTICARD, FABRICS PLUS MUCH MORE
So as it slightly expands could that sometimes be a problem?
It looks good so I don't mean a general problem.
Dave
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Yup, it expands very slightly. Never caused me a problem, and I've just used it to build an ABS boat, and set the lead in a keel bulb... :-))
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Thanks guys, I will order a tube, looks like you get loads if it is standard mastic gun size. Building currently stalled, waiting for motor to arrive, post no doubt delayed due to weekends festivities. >>:-( >>:-( >>:-(
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Little tip for using it, lick your finger and run it along where you're glueing, so long as it's something that will not need moving into place to glue. Moisture makes it go off faster :-))
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A little progress, Motor fitted, (Graupner 500E) with Mobile marine models flexi coupling, a well made bit of kit, and much quieter than a Huco type. I assembled the centre deck framework as a guide for locating the motor. The die cutting for these parts was not very good, instead of a nice clean cut the parts looked like they had been crushed out, and the notches were way oversize. Time to change the die or start laser cutting.. next job is to fit the rudder servo, that will be this evenings job, and then its on with the deck. :-)) :-)) :-))
(http://s11.postimage.org/vk4gl409b/Motor_fitted.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vk4gl409b/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/vep1f69yv/Motor_fitted_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vep1f69yv/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/bkltvesd9/Deck_frame.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bkltvesd9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/scfvm9b0x/nasty_gaps.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/scfvm9b0x/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/o2sbhjuob/Dodgy_notches.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o2sbhjuob/)
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Hi Nick, Looking good so far :-)) :-)) :-) If you want email the photos to me and i will put them on our web site as a build log for you.
Best Regards Dave.
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Hi Nick, Bugsier 3 is the oldest model boat kit with a PVC hull on the market, I believe it came out in 1974, so you will have to make allowances for the technology of wood cutting. I think it was the first plastic hull kit. There must be a lot of Bugsier 3's in the world, it is difficult to find an exhibition without one.
I have one slightly more advanced than your one in my workshop now.
Good luck it may make me get my finger out and continue building.
regards Roy
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Hi,
I got the Bugsier in 1980 on a trip back to the UK.
Just put a new electric motor in her to go with the new radio gear.
After this refit I will set her up as a rescue boat.
Regards
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Evenin all, time to sort out the electrical and control department. First, a mount was made for the rudder servo, using the supplied see through plan,which, when lined up with the main plan, shows the position of the radio installation. The 2 6v 3,2 Ah batteries were placed in position and the deck frame added to make sure the batteries could be easily removed once the deck was fitted. Next a shelf for the power supply components was made and the Action P95 indicator fuse board and P103 parallel power board were mounted in position. The P103 is basically a Schottky diode, this prevents back charging of the batteries. ( The battery with the stronger charge wants to charge the weaker battery, not good as quite high currents can occur during this process) In between other jobs, I have been preparing the parts for the superstructure, gluing 1/4 x 1/8 pine strip where indicated on the plans. Here I made a bit of a b***s up, the upper strip appeared on the plan to be flush to the edge, when in fact it needs to be 1mm down from the edge to accommodate the cabin roof/spacer, so it had to be removed and new ones fixed in place. That's all for now, next episode will see the electrics finished and the deck fixed down, perhaps even ballasting trials weather permitting.
(http://s13.postimage.org/4h59v7eg3/batteries_and_servo_temporarily_in_place.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4h59v7eg3/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/6si2ut3qt/And_with_deck_beams_in_position.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6si2ut3qt/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/g82jlrb5h/Power_board_and_fuse.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g82jlrb5h/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/bpdosm8uf/Superstructure_parts_ready_for_assembly.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bpdosm8uf/)
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Hello there, I have now got the electrical bits done and the rudder servo connected up, and it all works ok, well, nearly. Had a bit of a problem with the tiller arm, it is held fast by 2 nuts, one below the tiller and one above, and, during tests, it kept working loose, I cured it with 2 small star washers and a drop of locktite on the nuts, fingers crossed it will now hold, if not I will replace it with a conventional clamp on type. :-)) :-)) :-))
(http://s17.postimage.org/v068zahcr/Power_Board.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v068zahcr/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/niudmy565/Electrics.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/niudmy565/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/b7a9o9fab/Electrics_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b7a9o9fab/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/6bkde9tw7/Electrics_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6bkde9tw7/)
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I had the same problem with my rudder, a blob of superglue cured that one, too :-))
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alternative is a touch of cheap nail varnish from the pound shop- does the same job as studlock !
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Well, after a bit of a break due to a bout of 'modellers block' Bugsier is finally nearing completion.....I wont waffle, the photos will tell the tale......
(http://s19.postimage.org/4w2kwd5ar/Deck_beams.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/rsfesfxn7/Bullwark.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/efc9ptssz/Coaming_in_place.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/ft3wl4s2b/Bullwark_temporirily_in_place.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/mtsektn9v/Superstructure_parts_ready_for_assembly.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/8xp861xcj/Superstructure_3.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/ta6f8124z/email_nick_002.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/e98q4i8sz/email_nick_009.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/cws6l0brn/Balasting_trials_3.jpg)
(http://[url=http://postimage.org/image/t1ele8f4f/][img]http://s19.postimage.org/t1ele8f4f/Ready_for_final_assembly2.jpg)[/url][/img]
(http://s19.postimage.org/ke1e081ar/Fitting_out_the_deck.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/b7j3cxw2b/Fitting_out_the_deck_2.jpg)
Hope that's not too many photos at once Mr Admin Sir..... :-)) :-)) :-))
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Thoroughly enjoyable Sir. :-)) :-)) :-))
What a good idea to complete the drive train and electrics in a bare hull. Never thought of that way around. Theoretically she should be OK to sail and test in the water methinks.
Great
ken
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Thoroughly enjoyable Sir. :-)) :-)) :-))
What a good idea to complete the drive train and electrics in a bare hull. Never thought of that way around. Theoretically she should be OK to sail and test in the water methinks.
Great
ken
Many thanks for your comment Kenny, I have always approached the job that way, much easier than trying to work through a little hole in the deck..... :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))