Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: ukmike on June 14, 2012, 04:54:45 pm
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Hi All.
Well, the Riva is completely done now, so have tentatively started the Vaporetto build.
Having received the Panart kit from a friend in Sicily have started to put together the pieces that form the keel.
The shaft is supplied with the kit and I will use it if possible.
Trial fitted the parts dry (6mm soft ply), and all seems O.K.
The angle of the shaft easily allows for the use of a 40mm prop..
The kit is for a 1969 example but I will update that to the 1980's series.
Just a couple of photo's of the keel parts and shaft.
Mike.
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I don't understand, what are the verniers, setsquare and ruler for??!!
Have you seen one of my builds?...... %)
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Excellent another quality build log to make me feel inadequate lol :)
Just kidding looking forward to it... Oh and I'm still looking for that glue!
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The kit is for a 1969 example but I will update that to the 1980's series.
Why? 1969 was one of the best years ever! O0
I'm looking forward to following this build Mike.
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this is gonna be a good build. :-))
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I don't understand, what are the verniers, setsquare and ruler for??!!
Have you seen one of my builds?...... %)
Not been fortunate enough to see one of your builds but that is probably my misfortune.
The vernier I used was to measure the motor end of the prop shaft, near enough is not good enough.
The squares are engineers squares ,certified perfectly square, again near enough is not good enough.
The rule is used for measuring distances, may be helpful to you if you don't have one to get one.
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Ahhhhhh!
Do you have a picture of the prototype you aiming to emulate?
(Don't worry, I'll remove all this crap once you get going.)
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Not been fortunate enough to see one of your builds but that is probably my misfortune.
The vernier I used was to measure the motor end of the prop shaft, near enough is not good enough.
The squares are engineers squares ,certified perfectly square, again near enough is not good enough.
The rule is used for measuring distances, may be helpful to you if you don't have one to get one.
pfft just picky. %)
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Excellent another quality build log to make me feel inadequate lol :)
Just kidding looking forward to it... Oh and I'm still looking for that glue!
Hi Gary.
Send me a pm with your address and I'll send you a tube, especially for you this Fathers Day. ;)
Mike.
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Why? 1969 was one of the best years ever! O0
I'm looking forward to following this build Mike.
I can only find 1 photo of the early 60 Serie examples and whilst it is good it's not quite enough detail to allow me to try and reproduce.
Info on the 80 series is far more ready available, also the boat is an awful lot simpler.
Mike.
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Hi - just logging on and tuning in Mike ....
Judging by the last build this is going to be enjoyable.
I can't wait to see how you rough it up a bit.
Dave
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Hi Gary.
Send me a pm with your address and I'll send you a tube, especially for you this Fathers Day. ;)
Mike.
You found some then?
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You found some then?
P.M. sent
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Hello.
Have started to trial fit the bulkheads and so that I can glue them in perfectly square to the keel have made a few right angle guides from hefty Alloy angle.
Here is how I propose to use them, as this is all relatively new to me I suppose that it is nothing new to most of you.
Had to buy a 2 mt. length of the angle from a local offshore supply company but they only charged me 2 quid as it was an offcut.
Have lots left to make more guides and also because it's so accurately made will even make super straight edges.
Result I think. :-))
Couple of pictures, with not a vernier in sight. ok2
Mike.
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That aluminium angle's a fantastic find Mike. I'm green with envy!
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That aluminium angle's a fantastic find Mike. I'm green with envy!
P.M. sent.
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Great idea - and I suppose it can be used for plasticard builds etc too :}
Dave
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Mike even for the people whove been building years they are allways learning. Aluminium angle? Simple yet genius!
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Mike even for the people whove been building years they are allways learning. Aluminium angle? Simple yet genius!
Mike, you are not that mad after all, flattery will get you everwhere.
Do you want me to cut you a few bits, I do have lots of it.
Mike.
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Great idea - and I suppose it can be used for plasticard builds etc too :}
Dave
Hi Dave.
Because the alloy is quite hefty, I think it would be excellent for plastcard or similar, particularly as the plastic seems to be quite bendy.
Never used plasticard type stuff but have identified several parts of my boat that it could be very useful for.
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Perfect for Plasticard. I use it all the time.
Must admit I never thought of clamping it. Been stood there holding it in place and waiting for it to dry. :embarrassed:
ken
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Perfect for Plasticard. I use it all the time.
Must admit I never thought of clamping it. Been stood there holding it in place and waiting for it to dry. :embarrassed:
ken
Hi Ken.
What glue will I use to stick Plasicard to plywood ?
Thinking back now, I did, some years ago stick some thin Styrene sheet to Balsa wood using Evostik but after a few weeks it started to curl up, the Styrene that is.
Is J.Perkins polystyrene sheet the same stuff as Plasticard
Mike.
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CA works for me but i use ca for everything
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I use thick Superglue for joining Plasticard to Plywood.
Put it on the card first NOT the wood as it soaks into the wood very quickly. You also only get one chance, that's why I hold the joint by hand (sliding the joint is not an option).
Your method of card to card being clamped and running a bead of Plasweld with a paint brush is the perfect solution to right angle joins.
Polystyrene is not Plasticard and I never use use it in a model.
regards
ken
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Hello
Does anyone know what the tubing type structure if used for ?
I thought that it may be connected to the engine water cooling system, it is fitted both sides of the hull.
Mike.
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Does anyone know what the tubing type structure if used for ?
It somewhat reminds me of the type of hand rails along the chine of lifeboats (probably for when it is capsized keel-up, or as a stepping aid).
But this seems a little far-fetched for a Venecian water taxi, doesn't it?
On the other hand, the sacrificial anode right in front of it could support your assumption of some sort of cooling duct, maybe?
Btw, do you know of a source for plans of a Vaparetto?
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Ken recently showed a Gry Maritha photo with protected external cooling,
but this seems completey unprotected and the diameter doesn't seem great.
Is it a safety grab rail in case of a capsize? - only my guess mind you.
Dave
Ha - just modifying this after posting to say I should have read the last post properly :embarrassed:
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Could they protect the bows from underwater obstacles? Are they on both sides?
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Could possibly be a serious peril for boat traffic on Venice's canals if the locals dump their trash and scrap through the windows %)
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My guess would be some version of keel cooling
as has beenoffered as a solution.
They would need to be on the turn of the bilge
to be in reach in the event of a capsize.
Ned
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It somewhat reminds me of the type of hand rails along the chine of lifeboats (probably for when it is capsized keel-up, or as a stepping aid).
But this seems a little far-fetched for a Venecian water taxi, doesn't it?
On the other hand, the sacrificial anode right in front of it could support your assumption of some sort of cooling duct, maybe?
Btw, do you know of a source for plans of a Vaparetto?
Hi.
Try Gilberto Penzo here .. www.veniceboats.com
Mike.
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Could possibly be a serious peril for boat traffic on Venice's canals if the locals dump their trash and scrap through the windows %)
Hi.
The Venetians certainly do not dump their scrap and trash into the canals.
The only people that do are the tourists, the British in particular are very good at it.
Please don't decry the local Venetians, particularly if you have no knowledge of Venice and its people.
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The Venetians certainly do not dump their scrap and trash into the canals.
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Please don't decry the local Venetians, particularly if you have no knowledge of Venice and its people.
I never meant to.
Instead I am convinced that they have a working and well accepted system of garbage collection, most likely waterborne as well.
Wouldn't that be an interesting model to build, a Venetian garbage collection launch, if such exists?
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I never meant to.
Instead I am convinced that they have a working and well accepted system of garbage collection, most likely waterborne as well.
Wouldn't that be an interesting model to build, a Venetian garbage collection launch, if such exists?
The Venetians do have an excellent method of collecting the househod rubbish, its the same as ours except that the bin lorry is a boat.
Also, they have, and unfortunately have to have, an equivalent to the your local council litter picker, it's a purpose built craft with a scoop at the front, rather like a Bobcat here.
It would certainly make a very good and unique modelling project.
What an absolutely perfect job to have, pottering up and down the most beautiful highway in the world, picking up fizzy drinks cans and other rubbish thrown carelessly into the water.
I would sign up for that tomorrow, no , this minute wouldn't be soon enough.
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Here is a picture of the stern gear of the 80 series Vappi.
I'm going to try to reproduce it on my model, (complete with anodes, possibly home made)
Have also started to fashion a motor mount to accommodate the gearbox, it will be side mounted as unfortunately it can't be mounted upright due to insufficient distance to the underside of the deck.
Have started on the rudder which has 4mm bore tube going 2/3rd of the way down from the top and then 3.5mm to the bottom forming a socket for the bottom bearing / support structure.
Eventually all the bracketry will be silver soldered to the propshat tube
The motor and shaft line up nicely but the central offset needs a 6.5mm spacer to bring into alignment, handy that, as I have some Birch ply exactly that thick.
Mike.
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have you started gluing it yet last time i read you were dry fitting stuff.
whats an anode?
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Here you are Mike http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anode
On real boats the anode is sacrificed to preserve the hull.
Dave
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Hi Mike.
Have just glued in some of the frames, the ones that don't appear above the main deck, as per photo.
The top sections of the others are above the deck so need grain filling before I fit them.
The Anodes are the silver blobs that are shown on the rudder and in front of the piping on the hull.
On the full size boats they are usually made of Zinc and replaceable when eaten away by the salt water and electrolysis.
Mine will be purely for show but I am trying to reproduce the full size Vappi as accurately as my skills will allow.
Can't understand for the life of me why my simple question as to where I might buy these should only receive one helpful straight answer.
Mike.
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Sorry Mike, I really didn't know where you could buy them.
I've only seen them used on the 'Deadliest Catch' build and I'm pretty sure he made his own..... but I could be wrong.
They add a little interest to the plain canvas of a hull so I'm all for seeing them
Dave
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Sorry Mike, I really didn't know where you could buy them.
I've only seen them used on the 'Deadliest Catch' build and I'm pretty sure he made his own..... but I could be wrong.
They add a little interest to the plain canvas of a hull so I'm all for seeing them
Dave
Hi Dave.
I followed the link to the German site and they have some really great ones in several scale sizes.
The price is excellent, for my 1/25 scale they want €5.75 for 10 made in Zinc.
The downside is the P&P is another €5.00 which makes them far to expensive on their own but have downloaded the catalogue so may get some other bits and bobs which will dilute the postage.
Please don't give a thought to the other post.
Regards.
Mike.
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What a lovely model to build :-)) Keep the pictures coming!
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Hi all, second time of trying to upload this post, first was the now inevitable "Gateway timeout"
Mod, if this does duplicate can you delete one of them ? Ta.
No building today as I am awaiting the delivery of some items for the build, but, thought that I might post a couple of pictures just to keep the thread alive.
The first photo is of the very latest series of the Vaporetti, B&W unfortunately.
It is a Caterpillar turned into a Butterfly. Rather more like a Grayhound I feel, but nothing stands in the way of progress is suppose.
The second one is of an example that I want to try to reproduce, not exactly of course as my limited skills won't allow this.
I like the scruffy one, tell me what you think ?
Mike.
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clean one is easier to paint scruffy one looks better. what addional skills would be needed to the make the second one that isnt required on the first? apart from a dribble of rust? You need to chuck a few empty crisp packets and coke bottles on board, busted seats and a bit of grafiti on the back. %% UKMIKE WOZ ERE INNIT 2012
sent you a pm mike btw
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I too prefer the latter for the build.
You've mastered pristine Mike so maybe it's time to gety dirty on a working boat?
I've been to Venice twice, but not for 25 years now, my recollection is that it was
very clean everywhere I went - the food was to die for. Time I went again O0
Dave
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Hi All.
Have had to put this Blog on hold for a little while as I have a problem to fix on the Aquarama.
Have posted info on that thread.
Mike.
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Back to the Vaporetto now that the Aquarama problem is solved.
Started making the matrix for the electronic destination board x 2.
Made them oversized so that I can cut them to a final size that looks about right.
0.7mm holes at 1mm centres about 500 or so I think.
Some photos of the drilling and finished matrix with the optical fibres that may be used.
Also a picture of the real thing.
Mike.
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Can you not get a commercial display board of the correct size for an electronics supply company?
Otherwise, very well done. Looks fiddly to me.
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crikey thats a lot of holes %%. Funny how you buy in sacrifcial anodes that can be made simply in a matter of minutes but then go all out scratch build a fully operating display board! talk about one extreme to the other well done :-)).
nice bit if gear you got there too, can you mill with it?
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crikey thats a lot of holes %%. Funny how you buy in sacrifcial anodes that can be made simply in a matter of minutes but then go all out scratch build a fully operating display board! talk about one extreme to the other well done :-)).
nice bit if gear you got there too, can you mill with it?
Hi Mike.
The compound table calibration is super accurate but the drill stand would only allow very light milling I think, sufficient for the materials that I will use tho'.
Haven't bought the anodes yet, may well make them. ok2 ok2
M.
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Can you not get a commercial display board of the correct size for an electronics supply company?
Otherwise, very well done. Looks fiddly to me.
Have really looked everywhere to buy commercial ones, believe me, but no joy so had to resort to making them.
Mike.
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Have really looked everywhere to buy commercial ones, believe me, but no joy so had to resort to making them.
Mike.
I really think you should take on the mantle of Mad_Mike lol :D
As ever I'll be enjoying watching you build!
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Hello Mike,
your destination board is absolutely awesome.
Will you make it really switchable so that you will be able to display different destinations on it when completed?
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I really think you should take on the mantle of Mad_Mike lol :D
As ever I'll be enjoying watching you build!
Hi Gary.
The original Mad_Mike is ireplaceable, he resides somewhere in darkest Lincolnshire, a deep dark cave I believe, ( with a pond of course ). :-) :-)
Mike.
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Hello Mike,
your destination board is absolutely awesome.
Will you make it really switchable so that you will be able to display different destinations on it when completed?
Thanks Deadwood.
May have one side of the boat "1 Ple Roma" and the other side "2 Lido", after all no one can see both sides at the same time. ok2 ok2
My skills unfortunately won't allow me to switch the destinations over remotely, wish that I could tho'.
Mike.
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Hi.
Fed up already of drilling hundreds of little holes so have started to make up the little kits to produce the seats.
The photos show the wire work cut to length using a couple of jigs, over a hundred pieces in all.
Also, the basic parts of a double seat and how it will look once glued up, held together with sticky tape for the photo.
22 of these doubles, 2 trebles for the bow seating and 12 singles for the bow area and the stern seating.
Will most likely give up on this tomorrow and return to the hull as I have grain filled the stanchions now using home made sanding sealer.
Mike.
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Hi All.
Aquarama probs solved so back to the Vappi.
Not a particularly interesting post this one but brings the progress up to date.
Have tried many,many different ways to make the illuminated Destination Board and have settled for this one, it's a fixed route No.1, LIDO - P LE ROMA.
Have drilled the two boards ready to accept the optical fibres, only had 45mm max to work with so had to compress the characters a little, scraped in at 43mm.
Have installed the wiring for the Bow searchlight and a feed to the stern in case I need any power there.
The stopping that you see on the deck is filling for the nail holes that I used to hold everything in place before gluing.
Have modified the bow stanchion to allow me to rake the Bulwark back a little more as per the 80 series.
Some pictures.
Mike.
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Yes it is a pity but Mayhem always welcomes back it's friends... ask those that know.
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Hello All.
Venetian Vaporetto build is still alive and progressing.
Have started the hull planking but have stopped short of the bow as the Panart kit on which this build is based is of a 1962 example for which there is almost no information available.
The "80", series examples had a much more flared bow which I hope to replicate by the use of block Balsa in place of the planking.
I am having trouble being able to purchase supplies of Calcium Carbide to fuel the black smoke generator, which works very well.
Ebay advertise it for sale but apparently a licence is needed here in the U.K. to hold it, probably best I suppose.
Have used what little that I had on the prototype, it may be a while before I can go forward with it.
It would be a shame really because my generator does produce very black smoke and an amount of soot also.
No good for model trains tho' as it takes up quite a lot of space.
Anyway, here are a few pictures of the progress so far, interesting ? possibly not.
Have managed to break 4 of the stanchions already but they will be able to be re glued into place later
Here they.
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Welcome back Mike. :-))
Topic tidied up.
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Welcome back Mike. :-))
Topic tidied up.
Thank you.
Much appriciated. :-))
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Lovely work Mike, I wish I could do woodwork to your standard, it is good to have you back we need the skill & insight that you bring to the forum, thank you. Mick B.
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Put the kettle on - Mike's back
Anyone for Tiffin :-))
Dave
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Welcome back indeed. Any chance of showing us your black smoke ?
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Put the kettle on - Mike's back
Anyone for Tiffin :-))
Dave
Tiffin ?
Wasn't that a Fry's or Rowntrees choc bar from the ancient past?
You're giving our ages away Dave, thought everyone had us down for youngsters, you anyway!! ok2 ok2
Mike.
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Tiffin is older than the chocolate bar, I think it was afternoon tea during the British Raj in India. I`m not old enough to verify that but I remember some old soldiers using the term. :embarrassed:
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Yes Duncan - Spot on there - see also 2:05 - 12ish
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvp_GJ_4dow :embarrassed:
and back to Venice then
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Tiffin is older than the chocolate bar, I think it was afternoon tea during the British Raj in India. I`m not old enough to verify that but I remember some old soldiers using the term. :embarrassed:
Didn't Sid James enjoy a bit of Tiffin whilst engaging the Khazi, lucky s*d !!
Far better than a little chocholate bar that I had to console myself with. <:( <:(
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That was the clip I looked for Mike :-))
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Welcome Back great to see u on here and getting on with it
Dave
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Hello.
A little more done on the hull planking, all planking completed now and I am happy with the block Balsa bow section, managed to get the flair of the full size.
Unfortunately have managed to break even more of the stanchions off, I blame it on a design flaw, but maybe it's just because I'm particularly clumsy, the latter I think !!
Using my pencil technique for the planking sanding, when the pencil marks are gone then the sanding is done, a little filler here and there may be required of course.
Lots of wires needed for the lighting which I have remembered to pre fit.
This build will get a lot more interesting as I get past the boring stages, I'm sure.
A few photos.
Mike.
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stanchions will repair easily. For extra reinforcment in necessary drill and insert and metal rod between the to broke parts. Not sure about the grafiti though %)
did you try that ca and bicarb we were talking about?
Im emailing you right now mike
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stanchions will repair easily. For extra reinforcment in necessary drill and insert and metal rod between the to broke parts. Not sure about the grafiti though %)
did you try that ca and bicarb we were talking about?
Im emailing you right now mike
I did the same thing with my mayflower... works a treat. I glued the broken parts together and then drilled a fine hole through the top and then glued in a length of plastic rod (what I had to hand at the time)
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I did the same thing with my mayflower... works a treat. I glued the broken parts together and then drilled a fine hole through the top and then glued in a length of plastic rod (what I had to hand at the time)
Hi Gary.
Unfortunately the problem is that the week points are where the Laser cut holes, kit, or drilled holes, scratch are for the sliding barriers.
Can't drill a hole down the stanchions with a peg because it would block the holes where the tubes go through.
Will get over the problem no doubt.
Mike.
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Hello.
Have abandoned the hull sanding/filling for the time being as I have a couple of weeks leave comming up soon so will complete it then.
Decided to complete the electronic destination boards so to that end I have posted some pictures of the almost finished item.
I had to give up on the, 1 PLE. ROMA route as I couldn't faithfully reproduce it at a scale of 1/28.
Have decided on an allthogether easier route, i.e. Linea 1 LIDO and I have to admit to being quite pleased with the result so far.
The photo of the almost finished example was taken in full daylight so no need for dusk conditions to show it.
Mike.
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The lighting looks excellent Mike
Geoff
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I think Mike's subcontracted that part to the Liliputians O0
Dave
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Hi Gary.
Unfortunately the problem is that the week points are where the Laser cut holes, kit, or drilled holes, scratch are for the sliding barriers.
Can't drill a hole down the stanchions with a peg because it would block the holes where the tubes go through.Will get over the problem no doubt.
Mike.
Is it possible for the holes to be drilled out after 'Peg' repairing???
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Have made some 1/64th ply doublers to fit either side if the stanchions and extent to the deck level to include the "stub" left below the break.
Should do the trick, I hope!!.
Here are the pair of destination boards after adding filters, again in bright sunlight.
Mike.
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Hi Mike,
your pair of direction indicators looks cute. Well done!
May I recap your sanding method, which I haven't understood yet?
So, you do apply some pencil scrawls on the (already pre-smoothed?) hull surface, and then you do sand it until all pencil marks have disappeared?
For this to make sense to me, do you take care to only leave scrawls on the bulges and skirt the troughs or dents?
And how does the filler/putty (if necessary at all at this stage) fit in the procedure?
Ralph
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Hi Mike,
your pair of direction indicators looks cute. Well done!
May I recap your sanding method, which I haven't understood yet?
So, you do apply some pencil scrawls on the (already pre-smoothed?) hull surface, and then you do sand it until all pencil marks have disappeared?
For this to make sense to me, do you take care to only leave scrawls on the bulges and skirt the troughs or dents?
And how does the filler/putty (if necessary at all at this stage) fit in the procedure?
Ralph
P.M sent
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Planking and sanding complete now.
Covered the hull with 1/2 oz. glass cloth and 2 coats of epoxy. Cut back to flat with 600 grit paper used wet.
Sprayed with high build grey primer ready for the silvery antifoul and black gloss above the waterline.
Will add some slime green around the waterline and some exposed red oxide. All of the paint is Italian Lifecolor acrylic
Next tho', before all of that will be the prop shaft and associated bracketry which I have yet to fabricate.
The gloss on the grey primer is because it is still wet.
Photo's.
Mike.
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It could me trick photography Mike, but it looks like a super finish on that hull :-))
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It could me trick photography Mike, but it looks like a super finish on that hull :-))
The finish is a bit too good really, the full size are very messy and full of dents, rust and flaking paint.
Hopefully I might be able to simulate that with "weathering", although I have never tried it yet so am still figuring out how to do it.
Mike.
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The speed some of you guys work amazes me, not to mention the quality you achieve. All very impressive, I need to build up my skills base!
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Running gear completed now.
Not exactly as per full size, but a reasonable representation.
The large skeg is, I believe, intended to prevent damage to the propeller in the shallower parts of the Lagoon.
There is very little information available for these Vaporetti so most of what I'm doing is purely guess work.
Have a look at the pictures and make up your own minds, criticism or advice most welcome.
Mike.
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Looks good to me! :-)) Is it made up of brass work?
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Looks good to me! :-)) Is it made up of brass work?
It is as you have guessed Martin, all Brass, far easier to solder than mild steel.
Mike.
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It does look good Mike bt I am looking forward to you beating it up a ittle as a working boat O0
You do crack on with a build matey - I wish I worked just 5% as fast
Dave
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What a beautiful piece or work. :-)) :-))
I am jealous of your skills. Well done Mike.
ken
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Most impressive :-)) Can't wait for the next installment :}
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As smooth as a baby's bum. :-))
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looking grand that mike :-))
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A little more done today
This is the passenger cabin entry, with sliding doors.
Nothing is glued up yet, just offered up the make sure everything fits so the alignment isn't set.
Doors need varnishing some more and the rest has to be painted before gluing.
Mike.
P.C. fixed then Mike, good news that.
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really looks the part that Mike :-))
Dave
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nope not fixed yet, on my dad pc at the minute
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Hello.
Antifouling sprayed on today, the Black from the waterline has to be added.
Have done it this way so that I will be able to weather it easier, scrapes, verdigris, marine growths etc.
Not all of the Vaporetti had silver antifouling, most, that were serviced in Venice by Actv, had the standard Red.
A photo of the mark that I am trying to simulate, also some pictures of the work so far.
I am a little sad because of the overly large access hatches, they are not in keeping with how I would have liked to have done it, but, necessary to access the R.C. gear etc.
Mike.
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looking good mike, im back online now too :}
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Will you make the sliding doors operational? I have a couple of micro linear servos I pulled out of some beyond repair mini RC planes if you want to try :)
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Will you make the sliding doors operational? I have a couple of micro linear servos I pulled out of some beyond repair mini RC planes if you want to try :)
Morning Gary.
I don't think there is enough room to do that, (excuse No.1), also my limited skills just won't allow it either, (excuse No.2).
At the moment I am wrestling with the complexities of getting an airbrush to do what I want it to, seems these things have minds of their own !!
But many thanks for you very kind offer.
Mike.
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Keep to the board rules Mike
Excuse No2 should be posted on Humour O0 {-)
Dave
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Keep to the board rules Mike
Excuse No2 should be posted on Humour O0 {-)
Dave
Makes a change to see someone as modest as Mike
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Hi Guy's
How good is it having 2 weeks leave from work ?
Am doing a little every day now, hence the regular posts.
Have marked and painted the Black topsides down to the waterline using my, (make do and mend), scientific waterline marker, no cheque book modelling here. :-))
This leaves me with silver under the black for later scruffying up, (is that a word ?).
BYW, I did what the consensus recommended, re the sliding door pelmet, wet and dried,dried and wet, until the plastic was smoother than my new grandsons bum.
Sprayed again and no prizes for guessing, exactly the same results, wood grain !!
Will leave it as is now, but, plastic Styrene sheet and I are forever deadly enemies.
A couple of pictures.
Mike.
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its an unusual reaction your having with this peice of plastic. Are you spraying it or brushing it on. It might not be relevant to your situation but when i was painting my pt the paint went from flat to glossy, it turned out that i decided to change the paint brush half way threw the job and didnt think to clean it first. When you painted the parts that didnt go woody did you change something before you went paint the pelmet? like use a different glue or something?
Dont be put off plasticard its good stuff. :-))
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its an unusual reaction your having with this piece of plastic. Are you spraying it or brushing it on. It might not be relevant to your situation but when i was painting my pt the paint went from flat to glossy, it turned out that i decided to change the paint brush half way threw the job and didn't think to clean it first. When you painted the parts that didn't go woody did you change something before you went paint the pelmet? like use a different glue or something?
Dint be put off plastics its good stuff. :-))
Hi Mike.
Can't think of anything that I did differently to that part that could have caused it.
The paint was sprayed on via rattle can but only reacted with the one part.
Going to do some tests on scrap plastic to try and find the cause as I need to be sure it won't have to the other more important parts.
Mike.
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Almost completed the passender cabin fore and aft bulkheads today.
Just need to add the window frames and glazing.
The rear exit doors are complete but waiting for the varnish to dry.
The long access cover has warped so have had to drill for two small fixing screws just to pull it straight, (bu**er).
Some pictures.
Mike..
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Wave to the people, they're patiently waiting to get home.
They'll be waiting an awful long time for this Bus to take them. ok2
Mike.
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its really coming together now :-))
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A very good day today.
Managed to complete all of the seats, must admit I was not looking fwd. to this job.
Anyway, turned out not too badly, by no means perfect, but good enough, as most of them, (the seats), will be hidden by the people sitting on them.
Had to make all new longer seat legs as the plastic people from China were 1/25th scale, so a couple of mm taller than allowed for.
Can now crack on with the more interesting stuff, except that I have to replace the draft seals on all of my upvc windows tomorrow, b*gg*r.
Borrowed a ladder from my neighbour, but, I get Vertigo stood on a thin carpet so will see how it goes, if I post again then all will have gone according to plan. ;) ;)
A couple of pictures.
Mike.
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A little more work done, mainly on the wheelhouse, which is now complete.
Trial fitted the cabin frames and two roof longerons, all seems to be O.K.
I intend to make the whole superstructure removable in one piece so that access to the electrics / electronics will be easier to get at, (maybe) !!
Some pictures, day and night.
Mike.
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Fathomed how to make the passenger cabin with fore and aft door bulkheads removable so started to glue things up.
Will hold the structure in place by using several rare earth magnets. The wheelhouse is permanently fixed.
The seats are not glued in place yet, just a trial fit for the photo.
The 2 loudspeakers are for the Diesel engine sound module, only 6mm thick and will handle 4 watts RMS
Have tried them and they are not bad at all.
Mike.
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The 2 loudspeakers are for the Diesel engine sound module, only 6mm thick and will handle 4 watts RMS
Where did you get them from Mike?
Dave
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that is really starting to look realy good :-))
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Where did you get them from Mike?
Dave
Hi Dave.
The little speakers are from Rapid Electronics, I used the 4 ohm type in series to present 8 ohms to the amp in the sound module.
They are 3watts max power each but 2 watts cont. so two may give the same level as 1 @ 4watts.
They certainly sound loud enough to me and also very easy to fit.
At less than 2 quid each they have to be a bargain, what ?
Keep well.
Mike.
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Very pleased with my efforts today
Made the engine compartment vent, machined out of a solid block of Lime Wood
with the help of my little Proxxon drill, drill stand and compound table.
The cutter is a 0.9mm PCB milling cutter.
Photos of the real thing plus my attempts at copying it.
The open and close handle is made but the red paint is drying at the moment.
Have to admit that this tiny part is the most satisfying thing that I have made so far.
Mike.
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Probably not applicable to the scale of your model,
but if you work in a smaller scale (e.g. 1:100) a fellow modeler in a German forum suggested using computer IDE flat cable, cut in appropriately sized pieces, as imitation of vent grills.
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Probably not applicable to the scale of your model,
but if you work in a smaller scale (e.g. 1:100) a fellow modeler in a German forum suggested using computer IDE flat cable, cut in appropriately sized pieces, as imitation of vent grills.
Hello Deadwood.
This is supposed to be about 1/28th scale.
The vent looks right when placed in the boat.
Computer IED cable is almost round when stripped, my slatted louvers are, unfortunately, not.
Thanks for the info tho', maybe of help in any future builds.
Mike.
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Computer IED cable is almost round when stripped, my slatted louvers are, unfortunately, not.
I'm very well aware of this. Actually, the round rather than prismatic shape also was my objection I first had when I read about this uncommon usage of IDE cable.
But when I saw photos of it applied to a 1:100 RoPax ferry model with their numerous vent housings around the funnel and upper deck houses I was quite convinced of the realistic effect.
Anyway, I think this suggestion was rather aimed at us low cost model boaters who simply cannot afford etching or CNC milling these parts.
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I'm very well aware of this. Actually, the round rather than prismatic shape also was my objection I first had when I read about this uncommon usage of IDE cable.
But when I saw photos of it applied to a 1:100 RoPax ferry model with their numerous vent housings around the funnel and upper deck houses I was quite convinced of the realistic effect.
Anyway, I think this suggestion was rather aimed at us low cost model boaters who simply cannot afford etching or CNC milling these parts.
No CNC milling I can assure you.
Simple modelling tools used.
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Though I really admire and envy your skills, consider that your working scale is 1:28.
Now imagine hand "drilling" those grooves in 1:100.
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Though I really admire and envy your skills, consider that your working scale is 1:28.
Now imagine hand "drilling" those grooves in 1:100.
I really admire anyone who has the skill to work at such tiny scales, well beyond my capabilities, ( and eyesight) !!
My foray into model boat building is really amateurish when compaired to some of the absolutely incredible creations on this site.
My efforts pale into insignificance, but I do enjoy it and I do get some positive comments, only from my wife tho'. :-) :-)
Mike.
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There will always be someone who can work 'smaller faster better' so you shouldn't fret it.
For my money Mike you are only in competition with yourself and with two good builds so far you're on a roll :-))
..... oh and I've learnt a bit too :-))
Dave
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Me too
You certainly crack on with your builds.
Not sure if these are any use as you have done the light boards now but ill post the link anyway
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Programmable-Scrolling-LED-Name-Badge-Tag-Blue-Color-/290607206363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a98a0fdb
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Me too
You certainly crack on with your builds.
Not sure if these are any use as you have done the light boards now but ill post the link anyway
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Programmable-Scrolling-LED-Name-Badge-Tag-Blue-Color-/290607206363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a98a0fdb
Great link Gary.
It's a shame but I only have 43mm max length to work with.
Have bookmarked the ink tho', you never know what the future holds. :-))
Mike.
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No probs... he has lots of "useful stuff you never knew you needed"
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you never know what the future holds.
Could I offer, for sir's delectation, a Star Ferry from Hong Kong harbour
(http://s16.postimage.org/usifgmsep/Meridian_Star_1957_Hk_Star_Ferry_Co_IMO_5232725.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/usifgmsep/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/4y8mqusep/Tsim_Sha_Tsui_Star_Ferry_Pier.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4y8mqusep/)
Dave
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Could I offer, for sir's delectation, a Star Ferry from Hong Kong harbour
(http://s16.postimage.org/usifgmsep/Meridian_Star_1957_Hk_Star_Ferry_Co_IMO_5232725.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/usifgmsep/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/4y8mqusep/Tsim_Sha_Tsui_Star_Ferry_Pier.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4y8mqusep/)
Dave
You must be psychic Dave, have been giving this one a little thought for next time, but again, very little information available.
The Hong Kong ferries are so ugly that they have become beautiful, ish.
Mike.
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or this one? S/S Tarjanne
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/-OnLpN6vO-1U/S739NQ4L6UI/AAAAAAAAAFk/gUf0lUAM5R4/DSCN8526.JPG)
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Hi All.
Have done some of the little, but important, fiddley jobs these last few days.
The big sticking point is solving the problem of how to disconnect the electrics in the removeable superstructure.
Making some headway on that front tho', waiting for parts from the orient is proving to be annoying.
Have found that although the quite superb Lifecolor paints, they don't last very long, (tiny pots for far too much money), there is however a very cheap alternative.
You experienced modellers out there may well be doing this already.
I have bought some tester pots of emulsion paint from Wilkinsons, at least 4 or 5 times the volume of the, "Modelers", paints, @ £1.00 a throw, diluted them with 50/50 water and windscreen washer fluid.
Perfect, if you can get the near enough colours, lots of other testers from other paint manufacturers so it should be quite easy and save pots of cash into the bargain.
What started life as a Kit is proving to be almost a scratch build as I'm changing almost everthing apart from the very delicate laser cut parts.
It's proving to be almost impossible to remain faithful to the 1/28th scale, so if you see some thing that is too big or too small, keep it to yourself, I really don't want to know about it. :-))
The photo of the upturned cabin is to show the lighting that I will use, one side complete, the other pre diffusers.
Also, a picture of the electronics / batteries etc. You can also see the two little loudspeakers fitted into the cabin checker plate floor, poor passengers !!
Some pictures to bring the build up to date.
Mike.
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Just to let you know I have been following your build and finding it both interesting an impressive, she will be a beauty when she takes to the water.
One question, why do you dilute the emulsion with 50% washer fluid ?
John
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Just to let you know I have been following your build and finding it both interesting an impressive, she will be a beauty when she takes to the water.
One question, why do you dilute the emulsion with 50% washer fluid ?
John
Hi John.
P.M. sent re washer fluid.
Mike.
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AW!!!! don't hold back, we'd all like to know. :} :} :}
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Come on spill the beans you just cant state something and not say why that stems of secret squirrel society and we defo not one of them
Dave
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Sorry guys.
Had no idea the emulsion thinner that I use would be of interest, didn't leave it out intentionally.
The following is just my personal opinion and based on what I have found, it works very well for me in practice.
Also, this is important, only use matt paint, not the vinyl types with any non flat finishes, the cheap tester / match pots are always flat as far as I know.
I use those from Wilkinsons @ £1 for a quite large pot although the colour range is somewhat limited, better to use the larger manufacturers for huge colour ranges.
I use the very cheapest screenwash that I can find which will contain less methanol than the concentrated types, hence the 50/50 mix, the ratio is not that critical, plus a small dash of washing up liquid.
The methanol seems to break down the polymers in the paint and make it more akin to the paints that claim to be especially made for airbrushing / spraying, I don't doubt that they are but at £3 to £4 for a little jar they are far too expensive for me.
The washing up liquid actually makes the water in the mix wetter, sounds silly but it is true, that's also why I spray all my woodwork with water mixed with a little w/u liquid to raise the grain prior to sanding, raises more of the grain than plain water.
The blue dye in the screenwash makes absolutely no difference to the paint colour.
BTW I also use a 0.8 nozzle and needle in the airbrush for spraying emulsion paint.
A lot of the Vappi is painted this way with the shiny bits sprayed with water based varnish, although a little of the shine is lost but I don't mind that.
Hope this has been of some use to you. And once again, my apologies for not adding this in my earlier post.
A couple of photos for comparison.
Mike.
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Smashing ........ It's little gems like that that are worth knowing.
:-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Some work done these last few days,especially on the passenger cabin assy.
Started glazing the windows, some open, some closed, also the engine and generator exhausts, am looking forward to doing the black sooty residue on the cabin roof.
Have retro fitted the retractable radar and also fitted the comms antenna along with the cabin vent.
The nav. and running lights are placed just for show, will make them permanent later on.
Mike.
Photos.
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superb :-))
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Working on the wiring for the lighting etc, it's proving to be quite difficult to retain my idea of making the passenger cabin removeable.
Lots of connectors to enable that to be possible, maybe just a job to far for me, but I'll keep going and see if it ends up acceptable.
Have fitted the rear deck floodlight and stern light wiring which I have been able to hide inside mini conduit, also fitted the roof mounted life rings.
Ditto for the boarding area.
Some pictures of this and also the lighting for the cabin, high brightness warm white LED's, don't like the ultra bright Blue light types.
Mike.
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could you not hide an card/PCboard edge connector, say under one of the bench seats, that way your cabin simply plugs in. All wires at the one (or two) connectors?
vnkiwi
(http://s10.postimage.org/ynyeoizf9/edge_connector.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ynyeoizf9/)
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Mike how many wires will there be as you could use some stick on copper track 1 poss 1 neg and bunch the lights up into blocks then you wouldnt see the wires.I have used this method on my Our Lass to great effect
Dave
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Mike how many wires will there be as you could use some stick on copper track 1 poss 1 neg and bunch the lights up into blocks then you wouldn't see the wires.I have used this method on my Our Lass to great effect
Dave
Food for thought Dave, thanks. Where do you get it from ?
The problem is that power has to be routed to lots of different places, I did pre fit the cables that power the deck fittings, Bow searchlight, Pt. and Stbd. nav lights, Wheelhouse and Destination boards.
There is a lot of lighting contained in or on the Passenger Cabin which there is no easy route to use and I don't want have any exposed wiring.
Adding to the problem is the fact that I will be using 3 different voltages, will do it but not without a lot of head scratching and the way the boat is constructed doesn't lend its self to simple solutions,
but then what does ?
Did toy with the idea of multi card or D type connectors but determined that wouldn't be feasible. Should have thought all of this out prior to starting the build but have been adding more and more stuff as it progresses.
Hey - Ho. not to worry, plod on and see what happens.
Mike.
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Anywhere that sells parts etc to build a dolls house
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COPPER-FOIL-TAPE-FOR-DOLLS-HOUSE-LIGHTING-6MM-WIDE-/360195355000?pt=UK_Dolls_House_Miniatures&hash=item53dd50f178
Dave
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yep... once you have soldered your wires on to it, the copper tape can be painted over. It's used a lot in model railway lighting
Im using this and spring plunger type pickups on my huntsman to make the lighting connections on my Huntsman
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yep... once you have soldered your wires on to it, the copper tape can be painted over. It's used a lot in model railway lighting
Im using this and spring plunger type pickups on my huntsman to make the lighting connections on my Huntsman
Hi Gary.
From where do you get the spring plunger type connectors ?
Are they the same as the PCB test prods ?
Mike.
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(http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRAwRIykJ0Fq33lsmW95_bG_IT9mbwz-9LPyQHfrpCGBSNBKV0I&t=1)
They are the little black things in front of the wheels.
Designed for O gauge Kit builders
https://slatersplastikard.com/others/7mmParts/locoParts/gOlocoFittings.php#Section1
Item 7157 a little under 12.00 for 6
If you need the dimensions let me know and I'll measure one for you
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Have abandoned the work on the fwd bulwark with the bendy plastic problems and destination boards.
Will tackle that later.
Here are a couple of pictures of the progress on the cabin interior lighting, just one side roughly set out.
For the twelve warm white L.E.D's I have only had to supply 167ma which I am delighted with.
The AVO BTW is in calibration.
Mike.
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Hello.
The progress so far, still an awful lot to do and progress is very slow because every piece has to be painted before fitting.
Have managed to make the passender cabin and all of the roof removable with the aid of a lot of mini connectors.
I think that this boat is going to be too light, so may need some ballast, I only have access to the centre 1/3rd of the hull which may make it difficult.
What's the best material to use as ballast ?
Mike.
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Hi Mike
That's a super job you're making of the Vaporetto - well done.
Have you thought about lead shot as ballast, easy to pour into a confined space.
Brian
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Hi.
Some progress made over the last few days, mainly on the foredeck.
Have made and fitted the lifebelts etc. and fitted the bow searchlight together with the two bench seats.
Also, have made the bow and stern bulwarks from the plastic card, (polystyrene board), never again, I should have gone with my first thoughts of laminated ply.
Both have cracked, after the adhesive had cured I might add, and despite heavy duty sanding, washing in kindness to you hands soapy stuff and talking to it very tenderly, it still allowed the paint to peal off following removal
of the masking tape. This is my last collaboration with plastic card, for ever !!
As it happens, the cracks in the bulwarks are not going to be a problem as I will incorporate them in the "weathering".
Here are a few photo's of the recent work.
Mike.
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Made some Wasp tape for the wheelchair ramps.
Started trying to do the weathering, my first attempt at this, so, given that I have absolutely no artistic bent, it will have to do.
A lot more work to do on the passenger cabin, but am happy with the progress so far.
Pictures.
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You have cracked on with the build while I was holiday Mike - you weathering looks good too
Dave
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Thanks for the encouragement Dave.
Not having done this before I had no idea if it was looking O.K. or rubbish.
Looking at some of the other builds, my efforts do seem quite poor, but, everyone has to start somewhere, eh ?
I'm thinking that this particular subject is not very high on many peoples list of interesting builds.
Somewhat strange choice I suppose, but I'm loving every minute of it, hope that I can complete it before my eyesight problems deteriorate so that I will not be able to see at all.
In the meantime will keep on posting.
Mike.
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Looking at some of the other builds, my efforts do seem quite poor,
Can't wait to see what you come up with when you get the hang of it!
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Looks good Mike.
One thing with ferries that tie up every few minutes, there is no rust streaks from the bollards used for the mooring lines.
In fact the bollards are usually bare metal from the friction of the
repeated use of the ropes.
Ned
(Went to school by paddle steamer longer ago than I care to rember)
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I'm thinking that this particular subject is not very high on many peoples list of interesting builds.
Anything refreshingly unusual gets my vote Mike and I do like Ferries. I have definite plans to build The Kalakala and in time one of Hong Kong's Star Ferries too.
It bothers me not one whit that most people won't like the old KK - I've done my research and that was one interesting ferry.
So sorry to hear you have eyesight problems and I hope it doesn't get as bad as you fear.
Dave
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its coming on a treat :-))
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Looking at some of the other builds, my efforts do seem quite poor, but, everyone has to start somewhere, eh ?
I'm thinking that this particular subject is not very high on many peoples list of interesting builds.
From my point of view mike i think your modelling and craftsmanship skills are suberb. There are admittedly some outstanding builds on this forum but those models are built by an elite few and the same few. There are 2500 members on this forum and probably less than 20 reguly contributing members build to those extreme standards. The majority of us our builds are shameful and not worth photographing let alone posting on a public forum.
Also notice that this thread has been read nearly 4000 times. And its not even finished!! Only a builder with reputation to build good models and write good threads can gather interest like that.
carry on :-))
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Looks good Mike.
One thing with ferries that tie up every few minutes, there is no rust streaks from the bollards used for the mooring lines.
In fact the bollards are usually bare metal from the friction of the
repeated use of the ropes.
Ned
(Went to school by paddle steamer longer ago than I care to remember)
Thanks for that Ned, have added a little gray/silver to the bollards where the ropes would wear the black paint away.
On the Vaporetti the bollards are welded to the stanchion tops so I thought that the welds may well weep some rust streaks down the sides, maybe?
If you or any other viewers can point out anything that I can do to add a little more character to my boat then please tell me and I will have a go, can't promise successful results tho' !!
Have dirtied the wasp stripes on the wheelchair ramps today and added the mooring rope rings to the deck along with the "Wing Mirrors" for the helmsman.
Hopefully,will post some more pics later this week.
Have appts with a Consultant and an eye Surgeon at the local Hospital eye clinic tomorrow and Friday which will hold up things a tad, (I hope nothing more than a tad).
Mike.
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Some more scruffying on the passenger cabin stb side.
Transfers added and a bit more rust and window seal streaks.
3rd attempt at the exhaust soot, rubbed the 1st two away as they were really cr*p, settled for this one, although not totally happy with it.
A couple of photos of the "Weathering kit", and my bench in the little shed.
Mike.
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It's looking fantastic Mike. Don't beat yourself up too hard about it. Can I suggest that the "problem" with the soot on the roof is not with the soot but with the rest of the roof being far too clean by comparison?
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It's looking fantastic Mike. Don't beat yourself up too hard about it. Can I suggest that the "problem" with the soot on the roof is not with the soot but with the rest of the roof being far too clean by comparison?
You are quite right, I do need to do a little more to the roof in general but search as I might I can't find an photos of a suitable example.
Most people take holiday / touristy photos of the Vaporetti which are of little help to anyone wanting info to help build a model and quite rightly so of course.
If you or anyone can suggest how I might do this then I will be most grateful.
Mike.
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I imagine that there might be plenty of bird "stuff" up there. I'm also thinking about the tops of cars....dusty and streaky?
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Haul out and re fit overdue I think.
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Superb, :-)) just the right amount of workaday muck. Any passengers or crew going aboard ?
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brilliant
vnkiwi
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Superb, :-)) just the right amount of workaday muck. Any passengers or crew going aboard ?
Many thanks arrow5.
I do intend to add some passengers but that will be the very last part of the build. I bought men women and children fiqures from China.
I had to settle for 1/25th scale people as no one seems to do 1/28th, will have to carry out a little surgery on them first.
The build is held up at the moment whilst I wait for a couple of Turnigy receiver controlled swithes from HobbyKing, they've been out of stock for quite a while now
and there is quite a lot of wiring that can't be completed without them.
Mike.
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Excellent. We were in Venice earlier this year and I have to say that this model is so representative of these boats. :-))
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You are quite right, I do need to do a little more to the roof in general but search as I might I can't find an photos of a suitable example.
Most people take holiday / touristy photos of the Vaporetti which are of little help to anyone wanting info to help build a model and quite rightly so of course.
If you or anyone can suggest how I might do this then I will be most grateful.
Mike.
Are these of any help? I took loads of 'boat geek' photos during our cruise holiday...
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1648.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1662a.jpg)
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/Spook57/DSCF1668a.jpg)
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Hello.
Well, the Vaporetto is completely finished now, apart from the switching electronics which should be here in the not so distant future.
Obviously, will do a final post when all is complete, including a Youtube vid of it in the water, possibly in late afternoon so that you can see the lighting etc.
In the meantime, I have found the plans to build the Motonave Aquileia @ 30/1 scale giving a finished L.O.A. of 1.33mtrs.
It's not my first preference but is near enough. Quite a beautiful boat, but, not everyones C.O.T. same as the Vappi I suppose.
Here are a couple of photos.
Mike.
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Mike, did you get your receiver switches, see they are back in now on the Hobbyking website.
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Mike, did you get your receiver switches, see they are back in now on the Hobbyking website.
Ordered them 1st Nov. but no show yet.
Mike.
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If you need urgently I have one and possibly two I can let you have in the meantime.
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If you need urgently I have one and possibly two I can let you have in the meantime.
Thanks, very kind of you and I may well take up your offer as I need to get the Vappi finished and out of the way.
My shed, (being quite small ), will only allow one build at a time.
It will be at least a couple of weeks before I receive the Aquileia plans, so no rush at the moment but will let you know one way or the other.
What lovely people on this site.
Mike.
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Build almost completed now, will post photos shortly.
Following the Aquileia build, what about this one.
Push me pull you ferry, beautiful, is it not ?
Unfortunately, Voith Schneider drives.
Mike.
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Hi.
Vaporetto build complete now, apart from removing the weights from the mooring ropes.
Here are the final, not very good, pictures with passengers.
Will put it into the pond tomorrow for the first time, (weather permitting ), and get some more pictures.
Mike.
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last few.
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Mike, that is brilliant.
It is sso atmospheric with the passengers.
It will never look right on a lake or pond.
It needs the grand canal.
Ned
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Well it couldn't be more different to your last gleaming build Mike - love the weathering and all the lighting. I've noticed a trend - your builds are getting bigger and I'm quite looking forward to your next ferry O0
Dave
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Nice. Very nice!
.... youtube.. or to cold at the moment? ok2
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Stunner! :o
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that does look great :-))
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We're not worthy! 8)
Mind you...could I spoil the atmosphere a little? I have to suggest that the people need a bit of detail on them. The boat is so life-like that the cartoon-esque figures let it down.
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A real and genuine appreciation of both your skills and research Mike, It's been a pleasure following your build - nice to see a little 'out of the norm' model not only taking shape, but the way you achieved the outcome.
A T B and Regards, Tony.
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Hello.
Well, went to the pond today, lots of snow and ice and a moderate wind. No pics or video yet as no one available to do the honours, will happen tho'.
The Gorleston, "Boating Lake", is a quite small oval affair with a little fountain in the middle and built up concrete sides. See photo.
There were two people with rc boats, both model fishing boats, unfortunately, one of them was grossly overpowered and created a bow wave not unlike that of a Destroyer at full speed.
The Vappi really needs fairly flat water, as the full size in the sheltered Venetian Lagoon.
Due to the concrete sides of the pond and the combined effect of the wind, fountain and HMS Fishing boat, the surface was quite "choppy".
Not to be put off, I put the boat into pond and surprisingly, it floated, perfectly upright and at the correct W/L level, (surprising what a strategically placed load of lead shot can achieve).
To cut a long story short, everthing went well, sort of, apart from the fact that the wavelets on the pond were a little too much for my little boat, especially for two of the passengers.
Both of which were not holding on securely enough to prevent them from being thrown overboard, poor people, although they were recovered later, sadly expired.
Things that need sorting ... Firstly the boat is grossly overpowered, 3 clicks of throttle is more than enough and I am unable to add expo to the throttle chan to cure it.
Secondly ... Will replace the motor with a smaller 3 something one, maybe even a 2 something one. Is there a 2 something one ?
Thirdly ... Change the speed controller for one that is less sophisticated, with a far lower frame rate frequency, thus preventing the motor from singing it's silly head off.
Thoroughly enjoyed the morning tho', a model fishing boat travelling at a scale speed of 30 knots is a sight to behold.
I have absolutely nothing against the modellers that use the pond, after all, this hobby is for everyone and everything.
I, in no way would, or indeed want, to change anything at all.
This Epistle was posted purely to entertain and for no other reason
Mike.
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Hi Mike
There was a Vaporetto on last nights An Idiot Abroad which was Venice based this week.
I think (might be wrong) there was a shot of the gangplank down and the marks that left on the deck. My brain wasn't quite engaged at the time - just the usual intermittent fault %%
Dave
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Hi Mike
There was a Vaporetto on last nights An Idiot Abroad which was Venice based this week.
I think (might be wrong) there was a shot of the gangplank down and the marks that left on the deck. My brain wasn't quite engaged at the time - just the usual intermittent fault %%
Dave
Don't have SKY Dave.
What a bu*ger !
Mike.
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Presuming that the current motor you have is a 3 pole heres a 385 5 pole motor thats 12000 rpm on 12v:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Motor-385-size-for-RC-Remote-Control-Cars-Boats-Standard-Size-3-Pole-/220945732760?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3371645498 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Motor-385-size-for-RC-Remote-Control-Cars-Boats-Standard-Size-3-Pole-/220945732760?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3371645498)
I cannot see the name of the motor you are using on the photographs so i cant find any info about it. If im not mistaken the graupner 400 motor is equivalent in size to a mabuchi 380 motor. If the same rules apply to the motor you have then this motor will be a simple screw in job.