Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Glue etc. => Topic started by: karlshoj on June 15, 2012, 12:16:53 pm
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I have bought the Amsterdam from Artesania Latina.
The hull is made of kind of black plastic, and my question is now: Which glue should I use to glue the sodden kell and bulkheads into the hull. I tried with som Gorilla Super glue, but it does not set to the hull. I did not sand the hull in beforehand, could that be the reason or is it a wrong glue for the purpose?
Kind regards
Niels Hansen
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I would suggest using an 2 part expoxy glue (araldite) and sanding the joint for a better bond
Im not sure what kind of plastic AL use so there might be better options
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What material are the bulkheads made of ?
see my posting which may be related
ref plywood and styrene - I've had a similar problem - so much so have thrown out my styrene hull sides and coaming and am cutting out plywood; plywood sides should glue to plywood bulkheads ....javascript:void(0);
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Bulkheads and what is called "false keel" is made from 6mm plywood. The manual suggests super glue, which I think I used, so maybe just a question of roughening the joints before glueing. I am in Malta for the weekend and haven't got the manual with me, however it was mentioned something like "cianoacrylate"-not sure about the spelling, which I translated into super glue.
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Hi, Be very careful what glue you use as some have a very high exothermic on setting as one of my friend found out when the bottom of his Amsterdam virtually melted. Try a few test pieces of various glues, better to do on the bench before committing yourself to the hull, Nemesis
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Hi Karlshoj
For styrene, you need a glue containing a solvent that dissolves it, thus forming a "solvent weld".
Cyano-acrylate (Superglue) will do just this and also adhere well to the plywood (but you'll need everything firmly held in place before you start because it "sets" almost instantly!).
I'm pretty certain Gorilla Superglue doesn't contain cyano-acrylate - which is why that didn't work.
You can get slow setting and gap-filling Superglues but I have no personal experience of these.
Mike
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You may like to consider Sticks like sh*t, I've found it very useful for surfaces that don't want to bond to each other, available in white or clear
"Sticks to almost anything. Bonds to porous, non-porous and wet surfaces and works under water. Unaffected by temperature and weather"
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(http://s7.postimage.org/6znr3uhpz/SLS.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6znr3uhpz/)
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If available where you are, either Stablit Express, Devcon Plastic Welder or Deluxe Materials Fusion. All fairly expensive, but effective glues. I would use them for the dis-similar material joints only though. use more conventional glues for the majority of the build.
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For styrene, you need a glue containing a solvent that dissolves it, thus forming a "solvent weld".
Of course, solvent welding won't work on wood. Decent epoxy and an abraded surface gets my vote, or a cyanoacrylic from a known company. The "sticks like stuff" could be OK as well.
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Saw the feed.
What you need is a rapid setting adhesive, but not too fast or it the exothermic reaction become too heated.
So rather then Fusion or Rapid from Araldite, their Standard should do the trick.
Furthermore, with superglue, pop your fingers under water if they get bonded, it should do the trick and with a bit of rubbing, they should come unstuck.
Mark.
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UHU Hart from Graupner.
Regards Ian.
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Good call, or 1" copper nails, that may not be the best piece of advice so far though....
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No one mentioned that molded plastic has a release agent that needs to be removed by scrubbing with a strong detergent soap. Do not use dish soap, since it has lanolin. You can use dishwasher machine detergent. Give it a long soak, then scrub thoroughly.
This applies to fiberglass hulls, as well.
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Thanks to all,
I will be back in Grimsby where my "shipyand" is located on Monday, and give it another try. I think I will stick to the washing, light sanding and Araldite.
Niels