Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: glendavis1971 on June 25, 2012, 05:04:43 pm
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(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel001.jpg)
Hi all
I recently visited the model show at the fleet air arm museum at Yeovilton and on a whim bought this kit, the Lindberg Blue Devil Destroyer. Mainly because I liked the box lol. Since then I have heard untold horror stories about this kit and wondered if I’d bought a dud. Now I have had time to go through the kit very carefully and research the subject I have decided it wasn't a bad buy after all. What the critics seem to fail to take into account this kit is 1960's and has never been updated, is really a toy probably aimed at 12-16 year olds so precise accuracy was never intended just a close representation. So yes some of the parts are a bit on the chunky side (radar assemblies in particular) and yes there are a few inaccuracies, but compare that to a airfix kit of the period and the same kit today there is one hell of a difference in standards a case in point the fairey swordfish kit recently remoulded. Do I want a perfectly accurate model? The answer is a simple no I'm probably not capable of building any model perfectly so best I can manage will do me.
The models itself is 1/125 scale, a bit odd but close enough to 1/128 if after market bits are needed. The kit also has some funky working features the guns and gun director move in unison along with the torpedo tubes controlled by a cam taken off the gear box. During my research I came across tom's modelworks (http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/ (http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/) and American company that produces a photo etch brass detail set for this kit. Just hand to get one arrived 6 weeks later. This will sort those chunky radars out a treat. The running gear for my model will be A planet t6m receiver, 2x mfa 280 motors, a M'troniks auto sport 20a ecs (because I had one going spare), Battery not certain yet will do some trails to get right speed, 2 new m2 prop shafts, RH and LH 23mm ww2 pattern Props (from prop shop yet to be purchased) and a servo for rudder control. My model will still have rotating guns and director and possibly torpedo tubes. I will also fit 2 small smoke generators as I think these ship look better on the water with smoke coming from the stacks.
Well about to go and make a start going start with fitting the running gear and do some test for the battery
Wish me luck
Glen
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This should be a very interesting thread. Really looking forward to it.
I'm a big fan of plastic warship conversions, having completed a Revell Corvette and currently working on the Tamiya Enterprise....
Incidently check out the micro servos on Ebay. Excellent value, great in a confined space, (like a plastic hull) and I've found them very reliable.
Regards
Alan
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This should be a very interesting thread. Really looking forward to it.I'm a big fan of plastic warship conversions, having completed a Revell Corvette and currently working on the Tamiya Enterprise....
Incidently check out the micro servos on Ebay. Excellent value, great in a confined space, (like a plastic hull) and I've found them very reliable.
Regards
Alan
We'll also be keeping an eye on it from down here.
Have the exact same kit, so will be eager to see how you tackle it. :-)) :-)) :-))
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One of these days I might have a go at one of these myself - I've just done its' little buddy, the minesweeper USS Sentry, at the same scale. The surprise with that is how stable it sails considering the amount of upstairs and the lack of downstairs. I'm running it with two motor controls and no rudder - when connected the rudder didn't seem to do anything, the linkage was a pain, and the servo broke. For a narrow boat, it is surprising that it can spin on its own axis. Might be worth considering on the Fletcher.
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One of these days I might have a go at one of these myself - I've just done its' little buddy, the minesweeper USS Sentry, at the same scale. The surprise with that is how stable it sails considering the amount of upstairs and the lack of downstairs. I'm running it with two motor controls and no rudder - when connected the rudder didn't seem to do anything, the linkage was a pain, and the servo broke. For a narrow boat, it is surprising that it can spin on its own axis. Might be worth considering on the Fletcher.
O0 O0 O0 :-)) :-)) :-))
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Hello Glen
This is george from Canada. I have this same ship at home as well. I have been viewing various builds of this ship and ALL have one common message. Keep the Upper weight as light as possible! In turns it tended to roll badley. Everyone who built this model has hollowed out the Super structure as much as possible.
Good luck with your build and build pictures would be nice also Glen.
P.S. I replied to your P.M Reg. PCF already.
Thanks again for Posting Glen.
George
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This should be a very interesting thread. Really looking forward to it.
I'm a big fan of plastic warship conversions, having completed a Revell Corvette and currently working on the Tamiya Enterprise....
Incidently check out the micro servos on Ebay. Excellent value, great in a confined space, (like a plastic hull) and I've found them very reliable.
Regards
Alan
I have a load of the clear blue micro servos. if you want one drop me a PM and ill bung it in the post
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Hi Alan thanks I also the Airfix HMS Illustrious in my plastic kit stash thats sceam out to be converted to R/C
I did consider a mixer malcom but wanted to see how she runs with rudders first, but its still an option and theres a v tail mixed in my bits box
Hello george I got your message and working on it lol. I and anticipating stability probs and will proberly end up fitting a removable keel to lower the C of G. I used this system on HMS Opal which before keel rolled all over now a very stable model on the water
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/Opal001.jpg)
You just see the keel in this pic
Thanks for the offer essex I also have loads of those servo. they are very reliable I have one thats been to the bottom of the pond and still works a treat
Part 1
Running gear Installation
1/ Prop shaft supports (sorry guy not sure what this bit is called)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel004.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel005.jpg)
As you can see the supports come in 2 halves which with the supplies shafts just glue together. As i'm using proper prop shafts I needed to modify the support by first using a round file to enlarge and deepen the shaft tube in the plastic. Then I made spacers from 1mm plasticard to a total of 2mm to widen the space enogh for a nice fit of the shaft. I glued the pieces together and when dry pushed the shafts into the supports
2/ Motor Mount
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel002.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel003.jpg)
The motor mount is used directly from the kit the only modification was for the mounting screws
3/ Motor and Shaft Fitting to Hull
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel006.jpg)
I placed the motor mount and shaft supports loosely into the hull. The hole for the supports required a little widening to allow the shaft support through. While loose i fitted the coupling. the really was very easy as the motor mount was made to the exact angle to match the shafts and the simply lined up so a dab of liquid poly to hold in place then i glued the whole thing in place.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel007.jpg)
Once dry I used my own melted plastic sulution to strengthen the joints
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Hello
Very nice and informative so far. Keep the updates coming please.
Thanks
George
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Hi Glen,
Tagging along :-)) :-)) :-))
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Thanks guys heres part 2.
I have now completed the running gear please not the kits plastic props will be replaces with brass ones very soon
1/ Rudders
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel008.jpg)
The rudders are straight out the box and fitted as per instructions
2/ ECS, Rudder servo and Battery
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel009.jpg)
The kit comes with a very handy and good sized battery tray designed to take 6 D cells (the big round ones), it nicely hold the 7.2V nicad I'm using with room to spare. I glued this in postion onto the 2 spigots in the hulls mid point. I attached self adhesive velcro cut to size to ECS and stuck it in the space between the battery tray and motors. The Rudder servo I was unsure about. Have a long control run from bow to stern or the less accessible option close to the rudders. I chose close to rudders purely because I have a dislike of long control runs. I simply lined the rudders up and hot glued the servo in place and using a crudely bent length of piano wire connected the rudders to the servo. On test this has worked very well.
I have floated the hull on my pond in the garden and tested for speed. The 7.2v nicad was too powerful so I have ordered a 6v NiMh which should help keep top speed down ans still supply enough power for the 2 smoke genny's I will be fitting.
Any questions comments or advice I'd love to hear
Glen
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Glen,
Looking good. :-)) :-)) :-))
Any chance of a close up photo of your rudder/servo installation.
Also what size and length of the prop tubes did you use.
When you said she is too fast and are going to change to 6V power supply, could not the 7.2V power pack have remained with easing back on the throttle when sailing.
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Hi Glen...Great work, keep it up!.....
It just struck me how similar your build is to my Enterprise construction.....Here is a quick photo of my internal layout...It is obviously a work in progress as I'm waiting to fit inline fuses and ballast has to be added., but you can get a rough idea...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03047.jpg)
I used Steve Tranters, (Stevesmodelbits) M2 shafts 2 No. and kept the outside kit tubes etc as dummies. Raboesch 20mm 5 blade brass props. I also used a 6volt Lead Acid battery.
You won't get planning but mine would probably turn over if it ever got above manovering speed!...
More progress please....
Regards
Alan
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I noticed in the last pic you have glued in the servo... Im not sure this was a wise move. Those little blue micro servos are notorious for stripping gears
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Pics as requested raaaty like i said very crude but effective.
Looks great alan love to see more about how you have gone about it I have hms illustrious i would like to convert
I know essex its a risk but i have never had any problems with these servos I will be making the rear deck aft of last gun removable to allow access
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel019.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel018.jpg)
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Pics as requested raaaty like i said very crude but effective.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel019.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel018.jpg)
Thank you O0 O0 :-)) :-))
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done some more work
Forward Superstructure
I have decided to build the superstructures next starting with the forward section. These all need to be removeable for access to the r/c gear and battery etc.
As the following photos show there is a error with the watertight doors that i just can't leave as it would annoy me. For some reason Linberg have molded the clips off and away from the doors when on the real ships the clip are mounted on the door. Also the clips are vastly over scale.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel010.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel011.jpg)
I removed the clips with a scapel and have decided not to try and replace them as they would be very small and hardly noticable.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel012.jpg)
I removed all the clips from every door before assembly. The structure was then built in deck sections which can be taken apart for painting and assembly of the moving parts.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel013.jpg)
love to hear your comments,ideas and sugestions
Glen
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Since you went after the annoying error on the watertight doors, I am surprised you left the pilot house front-bulkhead-error in place. All square bridge Fletchers (like this model represents) had a 5 window bulkhead (or 5 portholes), not 4.
(http://abbot.us/DD629/incline/incline1.jpg)
The one other thing that really bothers me the most is the stubby barrel length of the main armament. The actual mount in the gun houses can be moved forward (with new holes drilled to accommodate) to correct this somewhat. Or, you can add aftermarket barrels, scratchbuild some new ones or what have you. Uncorrected, the guns look rather comical.
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Careful with the “fixing” of the Linberg problems, it could become an obsession that will sink you as fast as not gluing the hull together properly %%
I started out just like you’re doing – fixing a few things here then there. Soon it became a full time occupation that drove me nuts. Sometimes the best thing to do is realize this kit is just a “fun” model and should be enjoyed as such. That being said I am enjoying your build and will keep following. Even if it leads to madness ok2
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Rmay, you are absolutely correct and what one has to do is be content with the idea of standoff scale; the idea of it looking satisfactory from a distance. I was just pointing out a few details that are some of the larger glaring errors. Glen picked out very minute details that already indicate that he is treading into the dangerous waters you speak of. {:-{
Glen, while you're at it, go ahead and sand off the molded-on wheels on the watertight doors. The Blue Devil depicts both the "Quick Acting" watertight wheel operated door and the manual "dogs" that you sanded off around the door. Having both is redundant and from my earlier pic you can see there are no wheel doors, at least vertically mounted and on the exterior.
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Hi Guys
Been so busy over last few weeks my Mrs made me finish the garden so not had anytime to model but at last did some more work on her over the past week thanks to the lovely rain in the south coast of england lets hope it stay like this for Olympics. I have built the remaining super structures sections, funnels, torpedo tubes and gun turrets. Everything is still loose assembled on deck. I have also fitted 2 small smoke generators with a r/c switch that allows me to switch smoke on and off at will.
Hi harquebus
I'm hearing what your saying but to change the bridge to 5 portholes is a lot more work than just filling and drilling new holes which i am just not going to bother with 4 port holes look just fine to me and i have beautiful models using this kit http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/dd/dd-661/125-ew/ew-index.html (http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/dd/dd-661/125-ew/ew-index.html). The picture you supplied is a classic example of every ship being different your picture shows an extended deck area in front of the pilot house not fitted as standard you also mentioned the water tight doors having dogs not hand wheels again this depends on the i have drawings and photos in my book clearly showing hand wheels . According to my research 186 Fletcher's were built in 11 different shipyards all over the USA and as with British ships no two are the same. I agree with you about the gun look a little stubble until i thought I'd change the and took some measurement. The gun barrels protrude 1 1/4 inches from the turret that equates to 156 inches accord the wikipedia the 5 inch gun overall length is 220" with a barrel length of 190" I'd say the are correct and the gaiters give the impression of stubbyness.
Thanks rmay I only intended fixing certain stuff not all other your right i'll go mad %%
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel014.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel015.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel016.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel017.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel020.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel021.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel022.jpg)
just after the last 3 pic the smoke alarm went off
Hope your enjoying this build as much as me guys please tell what you think plus any suggestion especially on how the make the gun turrets rotate together
Glen
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Hey Glen,
I like what I am seeing, do you know and no Bull I think I bought this kit in the Eighties when I lived in Sydney.
I put her all together and did the cammo on it and then sailed her in a local pond that I had found.
Well mate I was very lucky, she was going along at great guns when she stopped and started to list ever so slowly.
Well she was my pride and joy, so without thinking I just jumped into the water clothes and all and managed to reach her.
But I was out in the middle of the pond and couldnt touch the bottom ( I found out later there is no bottom to that pond) so I had to push
the boat along with my head while trying to get back to the side. The weight of all the wet clothes and socks and shoes was something else too.
I tell you I have never been so scared in all my life Glen, so please make sure she is water tight its scary when something like that happens.
Guess it put me off boating for a long time and I threw the boat into the garbage bin (I know silly man) but that's how it affected me.
Good luck mate
Charles {:-{
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Shots from the USS Kidd doors!
(http://s9.postimage.org/uy6vxfqmj/Lily_Daddy_Dance_074.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uy6vxfqmj/)(http://s9.postimage.org/rkynapx1n/Lily_Daddy_Dance_073.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rkynapx1n/)(http://s9.postimage.org/53x37nqmj/Lily_Daddy_Dance_051.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/53x37nqmj/)(http://s9.postimage.org/5vzr6uutn/Lily_Daddy_Dance_052.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5vzr6uutn/)
They had a few doors with hand wheels and the rest with "dogs"
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Glen, just sitting looking at this model I am converting of the battleship and thinking of this USS Melvin.
Re turning turrets.
I reckon there is enough room to use a mini servo on each turret then coupled with a y lead into the Rx of say a 4 or 6 ch set normally on a 4 channel you would have channels spare as only using 2 for basic workings so Y leads into spare channels on rx and you could control individual groups of 2 turrets at a time.
Also on a 6 channel would leave enough room in the middle of the Hull for say a graupner smoke unit of 7.2 V.
Good idea or what???
Charles
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Sorry forgot to ask last posting, What smoke unit are you using for the Melvin, can you advise also the size length and width???
Thank you
Charles
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Thanks for those pics Rmay very interesting to see. I'll be sticking to wheeled doors all over
Hi Charles
Sounds like very bad luck with your model my club pond is only 18 inches deep I will be doing float tests to ensure no leaks.
The smoke generators are a pair of graupner small ones according to the instructions they can be connected in parallel to the models drive motors i have not tested this yet but i imagine they would give you smoke proportional to speed i might test this at mo mine are connected to a r/c switch for simple on and off controlled by channel 5 on my planet t5
funny you should ask about the turrets I have been working on them this weekend.
Its been a bust couple of days in the workshop A lot of head scratching working out the best way to make the turrets rotate while still being able to remove the super structures.
While i was thinking i was fiddling with model operating the rudders and watching them move and thinking i don't like the way the tillers staying hard over with servo central every so often. I have now changed to a vertical mounted servo with and adjustable control rod to a bell crank. worked much smooth and more precise control too.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel023.jpg)
Now back to the guns. According to the intructions each gun, torpedo mounts and gun director are connected to a long rod assembly by short pivot arms and the guns turn via a cam driven from the gearbox. Simple! Best keep it simple. Hardest part is being able to separate the some of the guns and the reconnect them. I decided to use guide tubes to make sure each shaft will be aligned every time a section is removed and refitted. I cut plastic tube to length and the glue them in place with revell precision poly which gave me time to fit the structure and ensure the tubes aligned perfectly and left over night to set well
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel024.jpg)
Once set I cut the connecting shafts in half trying my best to cut at right angles. I first tried a lug and grove I use 1mm brass rod bent to 90 degrees and cut to size and fitted to the gun half, the ship half i cut a grove. This works bit is a bit sloppy. On the next one I tried a prong and hole method, I drilled 2 1mm holes in the gun half and fitted 1mm brass rods and cut back to the same Length a dab of paint and carefully offered up the ship half and using the paint spots drill 2 1.25mm holes the slight oversizing to prevent to tighter fit. this method worked very well.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel025.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel026.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel027.jpg)
Next i fitted the pivot arms dryly and the control rod the guns and operated the linkage and the guns all moved well accept the the rear 2 turrets pointed the opposite way to rest so I reversed the pivot arms cut the control rod and temporally linked with a bit of wire move the run again this time all guns point to the same side much happier i glued the pivot arms and control rods and ensure still all free to move.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel031.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel032.jpg)
I next fitted a servo mounting it using E bracing strut and spruce brace i added and fitted the deck on held in place with tape. Using 1mm steel piano wire and brass rod made linkages to each control rod and tested it. worked a treat i get 45 degree arc on all 5 guns and the director
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel028.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel029.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel030.jpg)
I'm chuffed to bits with it. my first attempt at working parts worked :} My Mrs thinks I've turned back into a kid
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Yes Glen, really great work there I would be chuft with it also. No wonder you spent the whole weekend on it and I hope you left some of that
Home brew I think you advertise in your pictures and left some for your wife there haha.
I think though that model had rods etc and the turrets did turn beit only via the small electric motors so you have done well with your various mounts and servo placements mate.
I think I will try that servo idea I have.
I have 3 or 4 little minis from Hobbyking and I will see if I can mount the bottom of the Gun Turret to the top of a servo mounted underneath the turret. It will be a starting point anyhow.
I found believe it or not ,one of the people I speak to about various RC thingies sells the Graupner smoke units in the small voltage and larger.
I think he said 12V or 7.2 anyhow they are different sizes and he wants 65.00 for em. I guess after paying over there plus postage I will buy that part here.
Nothing heard yet re my emaails on the prop shafts etc for Nimitz so will just keep waiting and work on Bismarck for a while today.
I obtained a lot of good photos for colour schemes that I can copy if need be and locations of various bits and Pieces.
Ok Glen be good
Charles :-))
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Thanks charles. Yes with the cost of pint in the pub over here these days I built my own pub :} It never runs dry %%
If your mounting a servo for each turret it may pay to see if the angle of travel can be increased I did consider this method but wieght restrictings meant it wasn't practical on my model.
The gruapner smoke units cost me £14.99 each here which converts to $22.77 might be a lot cheaper for you purchase them here and have them sent over
I'm currently research props and shafts for my next convertion Aifix HMS Illustrious
Good Luck with bismark get your camera out and lets see how you get on.
Had a fews off modelling will be starting on the detailing next watch this space
Glen
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<:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:(
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Well I am watching the space Glen - but now you have me wondering where this perfect pub is :D
Nice job you are doing too.
Dave
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sorry about the <:( i recently lost my one in a tragic misunderstanding accident <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:( <:(
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Glen,
Very interesting thread. Don't know if you knew this, but there is an entire Yahoo Group devoted to converting the Blue Devil kit to RC. You're pretty far along, but you might enjoy looking at the various builds in the photo gallery, and asking questions of the modelers there who have completed their projects. The group also has expanded to include conversions of other plastic kits. One of the biggest problems people have had with the Blue Devil is in sealing the deck, as it tends to be slightly warped, and there are suggestions and solutions for it.
The group is here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lindyfletcher/ (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lindyfletcher/)
Rob
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Rob,
Thanks for the link, :-)) :-)) :-)) also into one of these, O0 O0 O0
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Shots from the USS Kidd doors!
(http://s9.postimage.org/uy6vxfqmj/Lily_Daddy_Dance_074.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uy6vxfqmj/)(http://s9.postimage.org/rkynapx1n/Lily_Daddy_Dance_073.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rkynapx1n/)(http://s9.postimage.org/53x37nqmj/Lily_Daddy_Dance_051.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/53x37nqmj/)(http://s9.postimage.org/5vzr6uutn/Lily_Daddy_Dance_052.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5vzr6uutn/)
They had a few doors with hand wheels and the rest with "dogs"
It looks like a mixture of both types of doors, I stand corrected. They're probably not all of one type on any one Fletcher but we'd probably never be able to find out. But you'd not see both "dogs" and "wheels" together on the same door.
As far as the idea that fixing the front 4-porthole bulkhead as being too difficult; I was not suggesting filling the kit piece and re-drilling. I meant to utilize an appropriately sized piece of sheet styrene to replace the kit piece and drill 5 portholes in it. Now that you have already assembled the bridge, I guess the point is irrelevant as you'd have to break the bridge apart to fix it.
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What kind of props are you using? They look very authentic with the correct (more or less) blade shape and the typical tapered hub of a warship.
What's the size and manufacturer?
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Hi guys sorry been a bit busy over the last week not had much time to do anything and the dreaded school holidays are here.
Thats not no good kraftykid
Its in my conservatory norseman :}
Thanks for the link rob i had a good read through very interesting
The props cane from the prop shop harquebus they are world war 2 pattern props http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/index.php?id=42§ion=store&sub_section=products&product_type=42 (http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/index.php?id=42§ion=store&sub_section=products&product_type=42) I emailed them and ask them to recommend props they are very helpful
Well over the past week and a bit a little progress has been made I have fitted all the running gear and checked access through the existing holes in the deck my biggest worry was battery fitting and removal for charging. With control run for guns its tight but just fits. You'll notice I have fitted a speaker this is for the model sounds sfx7 sound module I intend to fit as soon as i saved enough pennies to order it very soon i hope. I have also wire the 2 smoke generators in parallel with motors to give proportional smoke for speed.
Also I have start making the some of brass details at mo only the floation baskets I made a former from some spare brass tube rolled the main section around it folded the ended in and super glued it and my fingers to the first one :embarrassed: and after i unstuck myself made the other 5 without a hitch.
Next phase will be to fit the deck and remove the stanchion raised holes and fill any hole that wont be used.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel033.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel034.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel035.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel036.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel037.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel038.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel039.jpg)
Any questions guys feel free to ask
Glen
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Looking good there Glen a wee bit per day keeps King Neptune at Bay eh???
Charles
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I still have a few minor details to finish with my current build. Then another boat to be starting soon – but you sure have me looking forward to again one day opening the box on my old Blue Devil. Started mine SEVERAL years ago and fell into the trap of trying to fix the problems and got bogged down. It’s been in the box ever since. Next time I’ll take your approach and keep it fun! Keep up the good work :-))
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Hey Glen sorry I just couldnt resist I hope it is the correct model. It is in the box which is still sealed and was stuck away in a cupboard for a few years.
(http://s13.postimage.org/of8qegmnn/The_Blue_Devil.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/of8qegmnn/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/ejc8sk69f/The_Blue_Devil_3jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ejc8sk69f/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/62cqhn1kj/The_Blue_Devil_1jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/62cqhn1kj/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/ygi61ip4j/The_Blue_Devil_2jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ygi61ip4j/)
I am in no hurry to build this as a lot on the go as you know but it will be good to have and guess what I know where to come to get all the help I need.
I think Raaartygunner said he had one also.
So I havent got it as yet will no tomorrow still working a deal but I.m pretty sure something will be worked out.
Charles O0
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I've also managed to get hold of a Kit.....at last!...
Regards
Alan
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I've been trying to get hold of 1 of these but keep getting out bid! I've got the Revell fletcher in 1/144 but it's just too small for me the slightly bigger scale lindberg kit would be much better!
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It looks like i have started a bit of a revival for this kit.
Thats the hard bit Rmay knowing where to draw the line and when it ceases to be fun and becomes a chore you've gone wrong somewhere
:-)) Charles you have deff been bitten hard by the bug
enjoy Alan I'm having a ball
Thats a shame biker I got mine at a model show its amazing what you can find with the dealers that sell at these shows
Any how I have managed to spend a few hours in workshop this week I really wanted to get the deck fitted and filled so I could start painting the hull this weekend.
I fitted the deck bu gradually fitting and dribbling liquid poly into the joint carefully working my way around. Then wait for the glue to set then adding more layers of glue until i achieved a good plastic weld around the entire deck. after removing the raised stanchion supports i applied a large of filler around the joint area and left to set for 24 hours before the first sand. once sanded a second layer of filler to fill and missed spots and left a further 24 hours before sanding again.
Some of you may of notice in the previous set of photos I had removed the gun splinter shielding, gun tub support and the thingy that ran along the side after the wheelhouse section. 2 reasons, the first that there would be a 2mm gap to the side of ship and second made it easier to fit the deck. After the deck was fitted and sanded these were fitted back in position this time flush with the ships side. for the thingy (if anyone can tell me whats called I'd be grateful) I cut a 1mm square piece of plastic cut into 5mm lengths and glued to the thingy's base to raise to correct height.
I got bored while waiting for the filler to set and just for the hell of it corrected the error thats been niggling harquebus for sometime ;D. I carefully removed the wheel house front section and with a razor saw cut the offending 4 port hole off just above the pipe. I then cut a piece of 1mm plastic card to size. I just happened to have a 4mm brass tube thats exactly the same size as the original moulding and carefully cut and filed 2.5mm lengths. I marked the 5 port hole positions a drilled out to 4mm and fitted the brass rings. These where fixed in place using runny super glue. once set I fitted the new section and once the glue had set filed to size and angle before refitting to super structure. I think this was well worth the effort and not hard to do even easier if you do it before making this section of the wheelhouse
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel040.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel041.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel042.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel043.jpg)
next stage tomorrow working on the forecastle detail
Glen
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What Bug Glen? Do you realise that monies spent on this Kit has eaten into my much luved Glen Fiddich Kitty. Geez I might even have to be prime sober when building this one.
Another nice bit of work there Glen it's really starting to look the part. You must know a lot of History re this Ship or have you bought books on Her to complete the amazing Scale Work. If so could you advise book to purchase and It might be available here in Australia also, It would be a great read also.
Your work is Just a delight to read. I am also going to help Bikerdud out here if he really wants a model of this kit. But not until tomorrow when I get the correct information for him so I hope he is signed in when we send messages to this forum. NO CHARGE BIKER haha you will need the monies to buy the kit.
Have been researching also on the Nimitz and have a lot of details on her but I can discuss that in the correct location.
Okay my friend keep going, god bless and look forward to your next. What are we going to do next by the way haha, I should'nt say much I have a few coming and hopefully that new Trumpeter Bismarck is in the winds blowing ever so gently I must add.
Charles :D
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I was incredibly disappointed yesterday, I wouldve bet money it was a 1/200 hms hood trumpeter were releasing, but after scouring google I came back on here and found the thread, only to realise it was Bismarck :( still need to convince my gf the 1/200 Arizona is a good addition to the fleet lol I am going away for a couple of nights, but I'm never far from a wifi hotspot so can still check messages...
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Okay Biker Dude no problems I will work on your Lindberg today and see what I can come up with.
Spoke with one of my chinese sources last night and they contacted Trumpeter direct for me. The 1/200 Bismarck is due for release in November and they can secure me one for 250.00 plus 20.00 Postage so time to save for her. Last price I looked at they wanted order for 299.00 so its still 49.00 saving so I am glad I have held off.
Will contact you on the Nimitz forum later on as I want to leave this as Glens baby.
Cheers
Charles
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Righto Glen deal worked out aok so I now am expecting the Blue Devil to add to my fleet. I got away with a good deal I think. With ship paid for and postage from the US total worked out at just over 100.00 Aussie, so I am happy with that.
Biker dude if you got to Ebay US Military Kits Sea, I believe there are 3 Blue Devils being shown at this time. I think 2 are buy now prices and 1 is a bid.
Ok some great deals there.
Cheers
Charles :-))
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lol amour theres much better single malts than glen fiddich O0. Part of the pleasure of modelling for me is the researching the subject I love to find out as much as I can.
Good luck with your girlfriend biker :-))
Well guys had an interesting weekend working on her and learnt a new skill.
As most of you are aware the forecastle ares of this kit is completely wrong and does need sorting out. First thing I did was scan the drawing of the forecastle into my PC and using photoshop scaled it to 1/125 and printed 2 copies
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel044.jpg)
I cut out one to use as a overlay
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel045.jpg)
I Have also rescent bought some john Haynes fitting at 1/96 scale which is over scale but on small items i might be able to get away with. However the hawser plates are a bit to big but the oddly the chain guide are the exact right size. I used the second print at a template to make 2 new hawser guides
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel046.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel047.jpg)
Now with a mind look at a future build to go along with this ship (Casablanca class escort carrier) a lot of the fittings are common so I decided to make a mould to manufacture the common parts in the future. Using the smallest amount of super glue possible i glue the fitting to a piece of plasticard and made box which I then filled with silicon rubber to make a mould and set aside
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel048.jpg)
While I wait for the rubber to cure I started works on the anchor hawser tubes. The original kit supplies 1 massively oversized anchor as far I can seen all Fletcher's have 2 anchors. So using my overlay i marked out the correct positions for both anchors and pilot drill the holes. now these have to line up perfectly with deck hole and the holes have be at the correct angle. I achieved this by drilling progressively larger holes adjusting the angle as i went and on the final 4mm hole the brass tube fitted perfectly.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel049.jpg)
The brass tube was then cut and filed to size angles and fitted in place with super glues ensuring all gaps are filled.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel051.jpg)
On sunday morning the rubber had cured and couldn't help myself I had to test it and mixed up the rest and had trail cast. It took 2 attempts but i got it right chuffed to bits :D
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel052.jpg)
The forecastle area is now manufactured nothing is fixed yet.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel053.jpg)
Next stage prepping hull for paint and building all the details
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Ha ha ha ha...! I laughed out loud reading what you had done. {-) I'm a bit embarrassed and gratified at the same time. The pilot house looks so much better doesn't it? I think the heart of the matter is that you are making this Blue Devil destroyer your own, like adding your unique signature to it. You'll never correct all the inaccuracies (unless insanity is your goal) but so far the steps you are taking are above and beyond what I think many would bother with. Most are content with leaving it as-is.
I really like what you have done with the forecastle, anchor windlass and "anchor chain ports". Fine work.
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I've been trying to get hold of 1 of these but keep getting out bid! I've got the Revell fletcher in 1/144 but it's just too small for me the slightly bigger scale lindberg kit would be much better!
I've seen the Revell Fletcher kit converted to R/C so don't let its slightly smaller scale frighten you off. I say build it to survive a scaled-down Pacific typhoon, fill the voids in the hull with styrofoam and head into harm's way. I think there are conversion kits available to fashion it into a later square bridge Fletcher (which I prefer) just like the Blue Devil.
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Righto Glen deal worked out aok so I now am expecting the Blue Devil to add to my fleet. I got away with a good deal I think. With ship paid for and postage from the US total worked out at just over 100.00 Aussie, so I am happy with that.
Biker dude if you got to Ebay US Military Kits Sea, I believe there are 3 Blue Devils being shown at this time. I think 2 are buy now prices and 1 is a bid.
Ok some great deals there.
Cheers
Charles :-))
Thanks, I had a look and there's quite a few on there now, but after having 2 new tyres on the car I'll have to wait til next month now. Will keep reading this thread though, very interesting to see the improvements you're making.
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Hey BikerDude not my ship Glen Davis has the Helm its all his work matey and a great job too. I will be posting soon on the US Nimitz so follow up on that also if you like. No I wish I was as good as Glen mate but practice will make perfect tks.
Charles
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Hi guys
Been nearly a week since i last posted progress has been slow but worth the efforts.
:-)) Harquebus I agree was worth the effort in the end and has massively improved the visual look of her. Insanity can never be my goal I got there years ago. I do think your right with the revel fletcher no problem. If it was me I'd go for a single screw and rudder. plenty of space to squeeze everything in I'd even consider lipo battery pack due to size and weight.
Keep the faith biker all good things come to those who wait they say.
<*< thanks Charles I no master modeller just guy that loves to build models and your right practice does make perfect, But I'd also say taking your time and lots of patients are the biggest factors.
Well guys over the last week I have been work hard on the brass details. All the 20mm and 40mm have been converted at first i thought the oerlikons were to tall but after surfer 100's of pics of Fletcher's it was obvious these guns are tall. I made the depth charge rails and K gun reload racks but they lacked depth charges so either use the kit ones or make new ones. after a rumage through my odds box I found a length of 4mm brass tube and 3.2 plastic rod that fitted snuggly into the tube. I cut the tube to the same width as the internal width of the rack smoothed everything up and cut the rod to 1/2mm small than the tube width and fixed slightly recesses either end. I made 5 glued them to a strip of plastic and made a silicon mould and reproduced 40 depth charges a few spare to account for bad casts. I glue 9 to strips of 0.25 mm plastic cut to the rack width and carefully glued 3 per K gun reloader and sliding the brass shelfs in. The radars are made as per the brass instruction sheet and directly replace the clunky plastic ones. Also the yard fittings replaced the plastic ones I had make 1 aerial from 0.5mm brass wire. I have finished the funnels by fitting the the steam pipes and making the supports for the HF antennae I also made a ensign staff thats mounted on the rear funnel. Everything Is coming together slowly just a few more details to finish then its painting and the home straight.
Lots of pics this week enjoy guys feel free ask questions
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel054.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel055.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel056.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel057.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel058.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel059.jpg)
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(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel060.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel061.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel062.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel063.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel064.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel065.jpg)
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(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel066.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel067.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel068.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel069.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel070.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel071.jpg)
Hope you all like and find this helpful with your models
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Biker,
If you go to MMB Website and Gallery you will see "Dodes's" conversion of the Revel Fletcher to twin screw.
http://marksmodelbits.com/
Bob
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looking good :-))
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Hi Glen,
Are you in UK.
Can you give more details about the "brass, instruction sheet, etc" is it a aftermarket 'fret'
:-)) :-)) :-))
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Geez Mate that is really terrific work, Do not I repeat Do not expect my ship when she arrives to look like that hahaha, what do you reckon Raaartygunner,
Your in Brisbane going to do your ship as well as this one Hmmm.
You should start a Melvin shipyard Glen and start selling all these parts to us poor buggers who in no way could do something like that, only joking mate I know it will be a Oncer.
No worries, looking great its a shame to paint over all that nice brass work, WAIT I know what, buy another keep it as your sailer and keep this one for display and unpainted what about that haha.
Ok be good
:-))
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This is impressive work and a fine photo essay showing how the photo etch (PE) set really looks. Believe me, I have scoured the net for any and all builds of this age-old kit and have found nothing showing how the assembled PE is supposed to look and before paint is added as well. I have the kit and Tom's Modelworks PE set set aside for a later build and can only participate vicariously through your efforts. I thank you for the superb photography and the service you are providing to those of us who have not yet taken the plunge. Do you recall the size of the Prop Shop props you used?
raaartygunner: If I may be so bold, the PE fret is indeed aftermarket. ---> Tom's Modelworks #125-01 Fletcher Destroyer:
http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_39&products_id=166
HR Products also manufactures a set of 20 and 40mm AA guns for this kit in cast metal. Others have used them with good results but I think I will utilize the "clunky" kit parts.
http://www.hrprod.com/125.html I have the single Oerlikons and twin Bofors but like I said I prefer to work in plastic and will not use them.
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Harquebus,
Many thanks for the link for the PE fret.
Certainly makes a difference and well worth getting.
Think will go the way you are, namely, using the "clunky" bits also.
O0 O0 :-)) :-))
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That 1/144 fletcher looks good shipmate but still think single screw will give better handling with the single rudder.
many thanks strombringer
Raaty I'm in england I got the etched brass set from the link Harquebus posted took nearly 2 months to get here from states think they set by ship rather than airmail. Some sections of the instruction sheet are a bit vague and I've only just worked out were a part for the bofors goes will post pics with my next build update.
Thanks Charles Theres no chance of building another ones enough >>:-(. However anyone building that wants a set of my scratch built fitting only has to ask and I'm sure some arrangement can be made.
Thanks a lot Harquebus Its nice to know others are finding my efforts are of use. The props from the prop shop are WW2/1011/3/LH/BR and WW2/1011/3/RH/BR. Is there any photos of the 20mm and 40mm guns from hrprod I'd like to see as might be handy for my next model.
No pics today guys as thought I'd respond to questions. I have added to the bit to the 40mm guns the instruction do tell you where they go. Ive built the whalers and modified the carly floats and taken a mould.
will post pics soon have fun guys
PS Charles lets see some picks of Nimitz <*<
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Thanks Guys...The build will prove most useful when I get around to building mine.
Work on the Enterprise is progressing and the twin additional keels, for stability, seems to work well....Time will tell. I will provide details following maiden voyage...assumming all is OK!!!!.
Keep up the great work and photo's....
Regards
Alan
PS what paint schemes are you going to use?.....I thought of a USS Melvin type of camouflage paint scheme that it wore during part of it's life cycle.
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I provided a direct link to the PE set (even though glendavis noted it on the first page) just to indicate what it looks like and the asking price. Perhaps another vendor carries Tom's PE and is located in the UK or wherever anyone else watching this thread lives? I would research that before committing to ordering the set from the USA, thinking it's the only option and being stuck with a long wait for arrival.
BigGun Rob posted the Yahoo Group "lindyfletcher" as a great source of info, also on the first page, and that is where you can find pictures of the 20mm Oerlikons and 40mm Bofors sets. I think they are cast in white metal and are located in the Photos section in a folder titled "HR Products". The twin 20's are not shown but I surmise they are nearly identical. I intended on making my Blue Devil into a mid-war variant, before they received (I think) twin 20's and quad 40's to counter the growing kamikaze threat. The mount for the 20mm's is also the earlier solid "conical" shaped mount and not the later tripod style mount. The metal is perhaps too soft for the thin barrels of the Oerlikons (especially if the model is to be handled) so I also intended to replace them with hypodermic needle pieces. The adjusting wheel on the side of the 20mm mount is molded solid so I ordered some N gauge model RR brake wheels to replace those and just about every other hatch closure and wheel valve on the vessel. I have great ideas but no execution... %)
The 40mm Bofors? Decent also but not perfect. Perhaps both of these detail sets can be further imrpoved with PE, sort of combining the two but in all honesty the HR Products AA guns are on the crude side.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lindyfletcher/photos/album/401911586/pic/list
I am also a member of the group and was quite astonished to find such a group dedicated to this model and to RC plastic model conversion.
One more thing: Glendavis, have you considered adding bilge keels? Seeing the USS Kidd high and dry at low tide and with the bilge keels in all their glory makes them difficult to ignore... a prominent feature of the hull.
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Am I enjoying all these links and info re the build. I am awaiting mine from the states and as I said before I know where to come to creat a great model.
thanks everyone. Re the Nimitz yes I am working on it. I am just awaiting this camera card which i had to order from the UK to fit this camera of mine, and pictures on her will be forthcoming. Please do not be too critical as this will be my first attempt at a scale model. Oh I did do a few Airfix Aircraft when I was a kid like everyone else but that was that. So I will post pikkies as soon as the card arrives and Alan T hope you can give advice re flotation.
But will talk about that in the correct place.
Thanks all for the info. I have posted on the Sovremenny also if anyone wants to take a look if they have one.
Charles
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Hi Guys
I hope so Alan. Theres only once choice to paint Melvin Measure 21 as she spent the entire war in this scheme of all over navy blue
Thanks Harquebus I had a look at those parts they look OK to me. Yes I intend the fit bilge keels as they will aid stability on the water. I spent hours looking for UK dealer but sadly there is none.
Will look forward to seeing your efforts Charles
Today I finished the brass work. You'll notice the gunsights on the bofors now have shrouds fitted. Took me age to work out where those part went like said before the instructions are very vague in parts. The Carly floats are simply remove the bottom and replace, I also made a mould for the next model. The forward float racks have to be fixed to the forward superstructure and while i tend avoid soldering where possible as its not my strong point it seem the only way to strongly fix 0.5 brass wire to act as a strengthener and fixing for rack. the rear rack is I used the wire as a peg to in place. Once I had bent the ladder I soldered more 0.5 brass to strengthen and fix the stairs in place.
I have also started prepare the fitting and fitting temporally in place note the white metal torpedo director and Mk51 gun directors these are 1/96 scale at the moment still a little high but at 5mm width they will be slightly overscale. I will be reducing the height where necessary.
Only a few more fitting to clean up and bilge keels to make and its ready to paint.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel072.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel073.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel074.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel075.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel076.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel077.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel078.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel079.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel080.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel081.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel082.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel083.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel084.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel085.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel086.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel087.jpg)
sneaking up on finishing this model soon
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Looks terrific Glen, boyo your eyes must be in great shape to do all this brass work re soldering etc Nah Im afraid I would not have a clue how to do all that gear. I had better look for the Manufactured after market stuff me thinks haha
Great Pikkies too.
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Here you are all doing or watching the work being done by Glen.
A bit of Nostalgia, watch the video some good shots and does'nt go for too long.
http://youtu.be/Kns22_ujPAc
Enjoy
Charles %%
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Glen,
Have now taken the first step, ventured into the "vault" and found my Lindberg kit. :-)) :-))
After dusting off the cobwebs, checked contents.
Next step......................can't rush it O0 O0
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Looks terrific Glen, boyo your eyes must be in great shape to do all this brass work re soldering etc Nah Im afraid I would not have a clue how to do all that gear. I had better look for the Manufactured after market stuff me thinks haha
Great Pikkies too.
Well, it is 1/125 scale so it's comparatively larger than other more common scales such as 1/350 or even 1/200. It should be easy to work on. Soldering and reinforcing these PE pieces is a great idea whereas I thought that CA was the (only) way to go. Think how much stronger they will be with solder.
Measure 21 is an interesting ship camo scheme but it actually comprises two colors: Navy Blue 5-N and Deck Blue 20-B. So it is not as monotonous as it sounds.
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_21.htm
Incidentally, when I obtained this kit I was also made aware that Lindberg made several other kits in the same scale so I bought them as companion pieces: Lindberg Minesweeper and Lindberg LCT (marketed as an LSU, Landing Ship Utility). I have seen both converted to R/C; the minesweeper with ease (larger in size) and the LCT requiring more skill.
The thing that these two latter kits offer that the Blue Devil does not is...crew members. Not sure of the exact numbers but roughly 5-8 or less for each kit. More like a skeleton crew to be precise. Among the many considerations I was having was, can they be cloned? I wanted to make molds of them and cast copies in resin. Anyone ever delve into such an undertaking?
Thanks.
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The thing that these two latter kits offer that the Blue Devil does not is...crew members. Not sure of the exact numbers but roughly 5-8 or less for each kit. More like a skeleton crew to be precise. Among the many considerations I was having was, can they be cloned? I wanted to make molds of them and cast copies in resin. Anyone ever delve into such an undertaking?
My "Past Life" hobby was model slot cars, and resin casting is an important part of the hobby.
This link will show how to cast 1/32nd scale figures, but the same principals apply to your smaller little fellows.
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15288 (http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15288)
I hope this link works, it is from a Forum similar to this one, of which I am a member....If it doesn't work for you I may be able to copy the info for you.
Regards
Alan
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Good article.
I use Lego to make the mould boxes, They don't need as much re-inforcement and when you're done with them you just break them up.
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Thanks for the link; it works and I scanned it over. Hopefully resin will work just as well as plaster. I think these Lindberg destroyers often look wrong without a crew. Many of the examples found on the net are "ghost ships" {:-{.
Here's an example of someone who may have gone overboard into "scale insanity" with this kit. I was searching high and low for it with the usual search terms but was unsuccessful until I queried "DD-555 Haggard". This is just for the betterment of the the group here: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=98554
Great reference photos in the build thread.
That also reminds me that there's a "USS Mertz" by Bill Dunn that is a near-masterpiece but it is also not an operating model so there's that. He probably has significant topside weight anyway with all the add-ons and the hull is aftermarket so he cheated. I think what he accomplished sort of sapped my will for awhile because I had grandiose plans for my kit (which still lies dormant by the way). http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/dd/dd-691/125-bd/bd-index.html
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Well guys I've had my orders from Mrs D no more work on Melvin for a week while the kids are away :}
Loved that vid charles I have the enemy below in my dvd library have made a sound clip that i will hopefully have uploaded when i get the sound unit.
Yes Harquebus it does make it a lot stronger than ca but does take a bit more effort as not easy holding everything place while you solder. Yes you right about the decks being a different colour after a lot of research I found humbrol 104 for the verticals and 67 for the horizontals. Your also right i think all model ships need a crew that brings it all to life. Rather than casting I'd use n gauge figures easy to modify and paint I used railway station figures from preiser on HMS opal just cut peaks of the hats for the junior ranks. Those links are very interesting although I'd be worried and water ingress with no comings
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/Opal002.jpg)
Thanks for that link Alan very useful indeed
thanks Steve I tried Lego but kids kept catching me stealling it from there rooms
Have fun guys I'll be back in a week
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I remember the Lindberg Minesweeper, I blew one up at Canoe Lake in 1985 :}
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Hey Harquebus I had a look at that link and hey Glen I like the opening address haha JUST INSPIRES YOU TO PRESS ON REGARDLESS.
Have a read of this haha Only first few lines though.
Hi Everyone,
This is my first Fletcher build DD-555. It's based on probably the worst Fletcher kit known to man the 1/125th scale Lindberg Blue Devil.
I'm doing a lot of scratch work to correct many of the kit's flaws. I,m using Toms PE, HR Porducts guns, Props by Gordon Briggs, and Lifecolor Paints. The kit will also be converted to RC.
Well here's where I'm at as of 3/4/12.
There you are good stuff and I am waiting for delivery of mine haha, I might shift to the Escort Destroyers for Nimitz after that rermark haha
%%
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Biker,
If you go to MMB Website and Gallery you will see "Dodes's" conversion of the Revel Fletcher to twin screw.
http://marksmodelbits.com/
Bob
Thanks, I saw that before, even bought all the bits, then was unsure I was up to the task, so put it all away in the cupboard. However seeing this brilliant build has inspired me and I'm hoping to have it finished by the weekend! Won't be anywhere near as good as this 1, as my painting skills are awfull, but it'll float! (hopefully)
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Good on yer Bikerdue go man go and good luck hope she turns out great for you matey.
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Think will go the way you are, namely, using the "clunky" bits also.
O0 O0 :-)) :-))
The HR Products fittings are solid pieces and have some weight to them so I think my concern is to keep the topside weight as light as possible but at the same time I really like working with the styrene plastic kit material; you can carve it, sand it, melt it and reform it. It can be glued to itself. Wonderful stuff.
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Hey there ship mates, yes my Blue Devil has arrived from the USA and I have already R/C'd it. I have however kept everything original and used the motor that came with the kit and the Gearbox. It sounds like a real chuffer haha and looks as though the gearbox is running the twin prop set up.
I am not using the cam system as re the Radio Control and will keep her as is and enjoy her. My favourite saying, just got to get the paint and will do the colour scheme as provided by the destructions.
Hey Glen are you sick ????? Have not heard from you re your build, is she water tested yet???
I had terrible troubles with keeping out the water from the prop build as per shown and I even plugged everything with vaseline as instructed but was still like a submarine.
Thank goodness for Hot Glue, a bit messy but did the job so she is nice and dry.
Did the bathtub test and nice and balanced and, like you Glen, I kept the battery box for my Nicad but had a spare weight from an old chinese ship that I have fitted up into the bow section and just sits on the water nicely now.
Ok , I really enjoyed the build of this one and YES it has got 4 port holes and Yes a rotten looking radar System and Yes seams in the Depth Charges haha
But who cares she will look great painted, and after all that's what she is built for isn't she, fun and sailing.
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I have been 'shadowing' this thread for some time now, as the Lindbergh 'Melvin' was my earliest attempt at putting R/C in a ship. That was in the 60's when the kit first came out. I had a single channel Citizenship radio and a "Boat-O-Matic" from Aristocraft that was supposed to provide left and right rudder, forward, reverse and stop. However, there was so much radio interference from the motor provided in the kit that it didn't matter how many or what sized capacitors I put on it, it would just go crazy once the 'forward' command was given, with the motor starting, stopping and reversing in spurts and the rudders kicking back and forth.
Prior to trying to put R/C in it, I nearly lost it in some fairly heavy wind, because the cam system kept trying to turn it into the wind,and it would just sit there and heel, until the deck went under, and then the whole ship. Had to do some swimming, and the water was COLD!!!
That model and an unbuilt kit have been with my 'model stuff' for at least 40 years in a long box, which I just came across the other day.
I had looked at the conversion on the Model Warships forum before and at a few on the RC Groups forum, but this one is really inspiring. FIrst time I have seen the Tom's photo-etch, which really dresses it up.
Yesterday kind of clinched the deal, because I found a Squadron/Signal USS Kidd, On Deck book that is full of photos. I am thinking single rudder conversion, but we shall see. Joined this Model Boat Mayhem today so I could get in on the fun. Can't wait to see your conversion in paint! She looks beautiful now!
PeeJay
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Welcome aboard Peejay 333. Yes Glen is certainly doing a wonderful job isnt he. He just started off basic and then seems to have got right into it.
I just want to see if it floats after all this Upgrading and is not a submarine like my model was for a while there. comon Glen cant be that much left to do is there? Lets get her painted and in the Briny where she belongs haha.
Toms etch kits are really great I think and also White Ensign has a lot also, I have learned its just a matter of taking advice from fellow modellers and then checking the info they give for the Ship you are attempting to build, I say attempting as I am not the greatest builder either but with the help and taking my time instead of going like a bull at a gate like I used to, a nice model can be done. My Blue Devil is going down to the Billabong today to check the Hull integrity and all running gear is functioning correctly, just waiting for battery charge then the dog and I are off, I think she will go aok.
I am really looking forward to (After I finish the 3 I am doing} the build on the Missouri battleship that is coming. Now that will get the Upgrade treatment from me oh and of course the Nimitz. See Peejay with help, I didnt know that you could even buy Etch Parts from Toms to upgrade the Aircraft on Nimitz, unbelievable what you learn from forums like this.
Ok Glen over to you Skipper lets get a move on you have done as She who cooks has told you, been over a week now????
%%
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Hey Glen just to prove it,
Remember the Basics haha
(http://s14.postimage.org/9hve289al/US_Nimitz_Build_and_Conversion_to_RC_042.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9hve289al/)
My mum always said "Go back to basics laddie"
Hows about a PM and I will discuss with you re sending me some of your anchor etc Mods to me here Down Under for my Virgin Blue Devil
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Hi Shipmates,
Here is Blue Devil undergoing her bath tub testing before we head off down to the Billabong for her Hull trials. Notice how nicely she is balanced. Water leaks have been stopped, wonderful what Hot glue and Modelling Paint can achieve haha.
I am happy with the result so far just want to see how she performs under STEAM.
How is your build going Raaartygunner????
Haven't heard from Bikerdude re his Tamiya Fletcher ????
(http://s7.postimage.org/5d4ltted3/US_Nimitz_Build_and_Conversion_to_RC_044.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5d4ltted3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/ar3e1d43b/US_Nimitz_Build_and_Conversion_to_RC_043.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ar3e1d43b/)
O0
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Hi Shipmates,
How is your build going Raaartygunner????
Charles,
In line waiting for bits and pieces, motor shafts etc.
Have to finish the Linberg PT first.
Not enough hours in the day <:( <:(
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It is amusing, isn't it? The opening line of disdain is all too familiar. It is an oft-heard refrain, the first of which I heard when perusing this article many, many moons ago:
http://www.steelnavy.com/BDFletcher.htm
I am of the belief that you can get the ship to look "right enough" and the added enjoyment of being a part of history, in a long line of others who have built this kit and continue to do so, is somehow too great to pass up. I would also petition Glen to supply us with copies of all the mods he has made, for a fair price of course... O0
Hey Harquebus I had a look at that link and hey Glen I like the opening address haha JUST INSPIRES YOU TO PRESS ON REGARDLESS.
Have a read of this haha Only first few lines though.
Hi Everyone,
This is my first Fletcher build DD-555. It's based on probably the worst Fletcher kit known to man the 1/125th scale Lindberg Blue Devil.
I'm doing a lot of scratch work to correct many of the kit's flaws. I,m using Toms PE, HR Porducts guns, Props by Gordon Briggs, and Lifecolor Paints. The kit will also be converted to RC.
Well here's where I'm at as of 3/4/12.
There you are good stuff and I am waiting for delivery of mine haha, I might shift to the Escort Destroyers for Nimitz after that rermark haha
%%
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Hello I just wanted to say to Harquebus what a terrific link and thank you great Inspirational stuff in that build also.
I am studying it immensley.
I agree with your comments re Glen.
;) {-) O0 :D
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Hello I just wanted to say to Harquebus what a terrific link and thank you great Inspirational stuff in that build also.
I am studying it immensley.
Ditto O0 O0 :-)) :-))
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Bad news on the Blue Devil haha i thought it might happen but had to try. The motor and gearbox supplied in the Kit did a backflip when I took her to the Billabong,(It does say in the kit motor not designed for R/C) so now it's 2 x 380 motors and single rudder going into her as I speak. I have started mods as per Link supplied by harquebus and will be a while to get her up now but will get there. Now we will have to retest to see if she is a Submarine in disguise or not again haha.
{-)
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I think many have decided to convert it to single rudder as well, including me (if I ever get around to building again). It has often been said that the Fletchers built at the end of the class' numbering sequence (DD-799 or DD-800 to DD-804) had twin rudders, sort of serving as a test bed for the Sumner class destroyers (which had twin rudders) and I often accepted that as factual but now there is some new info that seems to contradict that. The following thread throws some light on the issues and show some photographic history:
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=8105&start=655
Of course that means the USS Melvin would have had a single rudder but the kit depicts it with twin rudders so that's just one more way the kit is inaccurate. For simplicity's sake, a single rudder would be better and propeller and propeller shaft maintenance would be easier as one wouldn't have to remove the rudders to remove the shafts. Just a thought. I think, however, that twin rudders provide a tighter turning radius whereas a single rudder would exhibit the manueverability problems the real Fletchers had (a wider turning radius).
Yesterday kind of clinched the deal, because I found a Squadron/Signal USS Kidd, On Deck book that is full of photos. I am thinking single rudder conversion, but we shall see. Joined this Model Boat Mayhem today so I could get in on the fun. Can't wait to see your conversion in paint! She looks beautiful now!
PeeJay
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Yes all in place now re Blue Devil and just got to screw and glue where necessary and a bit of filling to do where the old fittings were. I have decided that the now spare rudders will be of a great benefit to my other build on the Nimitz and they fit into place perfectly along with my other creations.
Is Mr Davis Sick or on holidays or just having a breather I guess he has earned it with all the work done. Hope all is well mate.
Charles {:-{
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Armo61,
Ever hear of thread-hijacking? I was cognizant of this when weighing in on this ongoing thread but felt I had something that needed to be shared, you know, to guarantee our collective success in this endeavor. :-))
Anyway, I think you and I both have put this thread on life support or taken it over completely, I cannot decide which. Until Glen comes back... <:(
Armo61: your so-called progress is mere fantasy unless you provide concrete evidence (photos)... O0
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RE your comments Harquebus yes I just did not know if I should start a new thread or as this one seems to deal with the Lindberg Fletcher and other Fletcher builds that I should post information on here and maintain my utmost support for Glens build.
I have pictures but do not know whether it is correct to post here on Glen's excellent build, perhaps I should wait and see but if opened up to a say Lindberg Fletcher Build generally then I would feel more at ease.
He certainly has brought o lot of people interested in a build together though and as you know a few people have now advised of their Kits ;D and Fletcher ownership.
SO what does one doe Harquebus, Post or start a new build thread of the same ship which I feel would be out of place.
It's like the Sovremenny one started to build then all joined in showing builds photos and giving advice???
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Charles,
You could contact him via a PM, you will find contact details in his profile.
Also thread already relates to Linberg conversion, so it is not hijacking but adding to it. Moderators often merge threads on same/similar subject.
Some of the references supplied by others, for example RC site, indeed have posts by several people of their solutions, pics, changes, etc on the Fletcher.
If in doubt ask Martin AKA as Lord and Master of Mayhem (In reality site owner)
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Yes Raartygunner I did not really bring the issue up but I would imagine Martin has already had a view of what is going on so I am sure that he will fix if something is not correct.
Re PM with Glen mate, I don't really know him very well like probably some of the other members. I am sure he will pop up when he is ready to continue, until then I guess we will as you say just have to add our bits and pieces on the Fletchers to assist and maybe help other members, and also get help which I need haha in return.
So if Martin does'nt mind I will just add some pikkies of the start of my Fletcher build or start a new topic???.
Armo61
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Hi guys
Very sorry not be on the thread for a few weeks buts you know with kids away Mrs and had a holiday which was cut short due father being rushed to hospital so as I'm sure can understand the build came to grinding halt. All is well now and i will be resuming work today.
I've just read through all the posts in my absence sounds like your have as much fun with your Lindy's as I am.
I know your thinking about converting to single rudder and I have think I'll put my pennies worth in at this point. I stayed with twin rudders for a very good reason and before you all butcher your hulls hear my reasoning then do what you want :-)). The real single rudder Fletcher's had maneuvering problems particularly at slow speed. The reason is flow over the rudder itself. with a single rudder twin screw the water stream is either side of rudder and doesn't act on the rudder. with twin rudders placed directly in the stream they deflect the streams giving better turning performance. I have a twin screw single model and before being fitted with a mixer and independent ECS's was a night mare to turn. Also bare in mind these are working models only really going be seen on a lake from the water line and above so it doesn't matter whats below the waterline.
I noted you all want the bits I've made very happy to supply at cost of postage and materials.
Enjoy yourselves guys what this space I'm back <*<
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Hoorray glad you are back. Very sorry to hear of your troubles but looks like all is ok now.
Yes had a bit of a chin wag while you were gone but I knew something must have been up, you have gone to far now to give up on us.
Anyhow here is the start of another Lindberg Fletcher. You are a "xxxxx" you know, I blew up the motor and gearbox that came with the kit, so I converted it to twin motors with the 2m shaft sizing and YES single rudder.
As I take your advice as gospel luckily I had not glued or set anything in place so taking your advice once again she is back to original twin rudders.
I will just have to find 2 more for Nimitz.
Here are some pictures of my rough work which has not been tidied up in any way. I have also started the upper bridge work from the link that was supplied by Harquebus and intend to go through with the same type of ship that is worked on in that link. I think it is terrific so I will do my best to at least get the paint and most of the details correct.
I believe I can correct the incorrect funnels or Stacks whatever by cutting a thin diagonal line not far under the last line and cut but not right through and then bend and glue the top to correct position. I think it would work but would have to be carefull.
I also want to order from cornwall the 10mm stanchions with the 2 eyelets is this the correct size for Upper bridge and gunnery radar site etc also around the funnels.
(http://s11.postimage.org/5s9rnzk8v/Armo_s61_Lindberg_Fletcher_build_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5s9rnzk8v/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/w4eptm9tr/Armo_s61_Lindberg_Fletcher_build_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w4eptm9tr/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/xyrkbcwu7/Armo_s61_Lindberg_Fletcher_build_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xyrkbcwu7/) :embarrassed:
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Hey Glen hope all is well today,
Mate I was looking at the link you gave for the Prop Shop re WW2 props. Can you help an old bloke out with the size. I havent got a clue re sizing of the props I used the Chinese motor prop shaft like what's in the Sovremenny (It came out of the Bismarck) and I am guessing it is an M2 size what ever that is?
Is it the dia of the shaft that determines the M size?
They have numerous listed there can you give me the ones used in RH and LH sizes for the Fletcher build??
Thanks Charles
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M2 = 2mm
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Hi Amor61,
Glen gave the item description for the props as follows: The props from the prop shop are WW2/1011/3/LH/BR and WW2/1011/3/RH/BR.
He did not say what size they were but I can only guess around 20-25 mm in diameter. Those are among the best I've seen having the proper hub that tapers to a point; must have something to do with speed.
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Thank you Harquebus that's what I need and thank you steve for your 2mm info.
I,m afraid Harquebus my Lindberg is meant to be single rudder.
I guess plastic just isnt meant to be moved a lot is it, and my shaft on the rudders broke off.
So Single rudder it is, water flow or not cant be helped at this time.
I will keep old rudders and work out a way to insert pins into them for future use.
By the way Harquebus you are a man of knowledge. Do you think the 5 blade props from the Nimitz kit would work in the water or are they normally just for show. Reason I ask quickly is they fit nicely onto the new shafts so at least I know the sizing of props if i can get em.
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Sorry to butt in..... :-)....but I used 5 bladed brass 20mm M2 props on my Enterprise.....Works fine if you want scale type performance, so I guess they would be ok on this boat...I'll have alook at my unstarted kit to see if you could get away with a bigger prop.
Alan
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Propshop are really nice people O0
Send them an email or call them and they will hep you out.
Just have all the relevant information to hand first.
Dave
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Thank you Harquebus that's what I need and thank you steve for your 2mm info.
I,m afraid Harquebus my Lindberg is meant to be single rudder.
I guess plastic just isnt meant to be moved a lot is it, and my shaft on the rudders broke off.
So Single rudder it is, water flow or not cant be helped at this time.
I will keep old rudders and work out a way to insert pins into them for future use.
By the way Harquebus you are a man of knowledge. Do you think the 5 blade props from the Nimitz kit would work in the water or are they normally just for show. Reason I ask quickly is they fit nicely onto the new shafts so at least I know the sizing of props if i can get em.
Charles,
Are you able to replace the rudder/s with new ones having metal shafts, alternatively rejoin the broken shaft and sleeve the shaft with metal or plastic tubing.
Also, the rudder shaft can also be extended if needed.
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Thanks Alan, yes I have been looking at the M2 sizes and have been sent prop specs from Harquebus which should fit the bill on this build.
Raartygunner yeah matey I am not goin to chuck em . I need them for the Nimitz so I will think of a way to get em up and running. It all happened today while I was working on the 2 ships Nimitz and Blue Devil, so i just cursed and havent really had a good look at the damage. I do know I will have to reshaft em and I still have the broken shafts on hand also, so will work out something.
Anyhow I must get into Nimitz before I get to involved with this model as I still have a lot to order mechanically for her which is the prority to get her up and running now. I will check with Cornwall hobbies for Tubes to fit the mini prop shafts I guess you would call them. I have stuffing tubes already installed but would like longer ones for the 4 motors. So will get size from them.
Ta Charles %%
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Hello Shipmates I keep forgetting but never mind, Can someone tell me re this 4 porthole mod to 5 portholes on the Fletcher. What size plastic sheeting I should order for the job and what size is the holes, smaller than what is on the ship or same size just closer together. I have cut away the bridge as shown and need to order the sheet to rebuild her back up to correct specs again. Also brass port holes, do you have to buy the upgrade kit or is their someone who sells port holes haha silly question is it???
I see Cornwall models sells the sheeting there but just need the correct thickness to order.
thanks again
Charles :embarrassed:
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Hi charles
have a look at page 1 again i give the exact sizes i used for port holes
Glen
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Ok Glen thanks, got it.
:-))
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Thought you might like to take a quick look at this. It is a video of the USS Burns, a Fletcher class destroyer sunk off the coast of the US and found by a diving team. They think it was probably used as target practice in the 60's or 70's. They did not know the identity of the ship on their first dive but have since found out further information on who she was.
http://youtu.be/OLhLqURUnsg
Did some more work on my model today, not going to be the Fletcher in the picture or kit I can tell you that. Lots of changes are being made and funny part I do not know the identity of the ship I am building either. I will find out one day.
O0
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Armo61, et al,
For the pilot house front bulkhead, I used styrene sheet that is slightly thinner than the other 3 walls provided by Lindberg. These vessels are "tin cans" so I was trying to depict scale thickness (more or less) in that area, especially where one can see the thickness of that wall through the portholes.
If you wanted to keep the twin rudder setup, and the plastic kit parts can be brittle, why not try fabricating new ones like raaartygunner mentioned? I have used brass sheet, rod and tubing to make rudders along with a tiller arm just for such a conversion. I used 1/8" brass rod, slotted with a Dremel cut-off wheel and a suitable brass rudder soldered into the slot and this rides in a rudder tube whose inside diameter matches the rudder post's outside diameter; a "telescoping" fit. Used grease to seal it up a bit but made sure the end of the rudder tube inside the hull was above the waterline.
Aside from that, almost every person who has made the RC conversion of this destroyer complains that it is too topheavy, dangerously unstable, that it rolls in turns or heavy "seas" and can ship water over the bow, etc. The real Fletchers performed the same way and the latest complaint here is that with a single rudder the turns will be too wide or not as agile. Well guess what, the real Fletchers purportedly had the same problem and I have heard that the Iowa class battleships could outhandle much smaller naval vessels of the era. <*< >>:-( ok2 I think an Iowa class may have turned inside of a destroyer, possibly a Fletcher, to the amazement of everyone...
I think scale authenticity is a neat thing. Anyway, the single rudder of the Fletcher class has a fairly large area and it is almost what I would call a balanced rudder; one that is affixed more or less to the centerline of the rudder shaft. When turned, a large portion of the rudder is in contact with the propwash of whichever prop is on the inside of the turn, so at least the thrust of the engine is working on part of the rudder. Here's pic: http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/attachments/naval-warfare/23102d1291926005-destroyers-fletcher-class-screws_dsc00558.jpg
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Thanks for info Harquebus,
I have the two Rudders in front of me and I do not think it should be very hard to restore these at hand. I think I would get away with very carefully drilling or sending a hot needle down as a guide into the rudder as a marker to hold a shaft.
I have a fairly large rudder on her now so perhaps I will just leave it at that. I have some pictures of model 662 which I am modelling after except for between the funnels where i have added another platform and removed the platform from the rear funnel
(http://s9.postimage.org/6a1k7mquj/dd662_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6a1k7mquj/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/drarmugdn/dd662_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/drarmugdn/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/tqtf6ecff/dd662_8.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tqtf6ecff/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/4m706q2cr/dd662_9.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4m706q2cr/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/uvs2pioa3/dd662_10.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uvs2pioa3/)
This the Ship I first looked at and liked the idea of more room in the centre. I have had to move the rear funnel back and cut the torpedo tubes down a wee bit as per the phot. But I believe it is still to scale.
(http://s18.postimage.org/olftc46zp/Fletcher_Class_Destroyer3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/olftc46zp/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/tld9k2cmd/Fletcher_Class_Destroyer4.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tld9k2cmd/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/cm4b4t1et/Fletcher_Class_Destroyer.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cm4b4t1et/)
I have done the Funnel Modifications and am working on the centre portion using the platform from the rear stck and shaping it up for the square sides to go below it.
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Decided to do some Fletcher work today and give Nimitz a break.
So after a bit of chopping, filing and other work like trying to emulate canvas where canvas is supposed to be I have phots Harquebus as proof haha
Here they are. today's butchery. The canvas work is obviously not finished very finicky work that and will look 100 percent when paint goes on.
The small deck in between the funnels still has to have a body made for it which will be just under the Front Searchlights on the funnel.
(http://s18.postimage.org/hxuz327lx/Lindberg_Fletcher_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hxuz327lx/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/nnb7ndds5/Lindberg_Fletcher_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nnb7ndds5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/p7l4zibk5/Lindberg_Fletcher_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p7l4zibk5/)
Okay thats it for now shipmates enjoy your modelling.
Charles
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Armo61,the propshafts in the Sovremenny are actually M3,unfortunately if you're going for 3-bladed brass props,there are only two in that size that I could find.(Raboesh 20mm & 25mm)
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charles have glued the deck to the hull or is it the deck the removeable?
If i was you that blue net stuff i'd bin it and use the railings from the toms brass etch kit and use paper to replicate the canvas. If you still have the splinter shields yo have removed from around the bofors I'd try and glue back as these weren't canvas but steel to protect the gun crews.
have answered your mail.
not much to report on my model have being bust with family stuff
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OK GLen,
will do as you say mate, will have to get that upgrade also. Received your message many thanks for reply,will contact you soon.
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Must concur. If it is a gun director or a searchlight, it will have either bare railings or canvas spray shields laced to them. Guns are in "tubs". Interesting note about the 40mm tubs; the interiors had brackets for holding the ammunition clips.
(http://www.ussslater.org/tour/weapons/40mm/images/40mm_4.jpg)
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I hope you don't think i will replicate that lot harquebus <*<
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OKAY, All removed and cleaned up. What a job plenty of filing.
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I hope you don't think i will replicate that lot harquebus <*<
The detail on that 40mm alone would drive you to drink, or stop drinking as the case may be... I think some internal ribbing added to the interior of the tubs may suffice.
Any thoughts as to replicating the Sonar Dome on the lower hull? Seen here lower right on Cassin Young in dry dock:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p182/sk65pilot/Fletcher%20Build/CY_DD_1079-1_SM.jpg)
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Looks good,
I see she also has like stabilers on the side of the Hull?
I like that idea, perhaps stop some of the roll at sea. It's food for thought.
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Looks good,
I see she also has like stabilers on the side of the Hull?
I like that idea, perhaps stop some of the roll at sea. It's food for thought.
The Revell kit has the keels moulded into the hull. Took mine for a quick test on Sunday and it was quite windy and rough on the water at times but it remained very stable, and surprisingly not a drop of water inside. Did have major issues with the ESC randomly deciding to go full speed astern though.....
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I was wondering how you were going the other day, sounds great, Congrats on getting her launched.
See and here was you worrying about size and everything. Just shows you does'nt it?
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Did have major issues with the ESC randomly deciding to go full speed astern though.....
There's currently a thread in the Black Arts section discussing this very subject.
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Hey Harquebus and Raartygunner, thanks for advice on rudders.
Today I have managed to fix both of them so now it is just a matter of refitting them.
I will wait until the weekend then I can go to the Hardware and get some glues and body filler to start a permanent fixture and start to tidy up the superstructure.
It's a shame not having the ability to send pictures but this is brand new and hopefully I can work something out. I does have a camera installed.
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Any thoughts as to replicating the Sonar Dome on the lower hull? Seen here lower right on Cassin Young in dry dock:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p182/sk65pilot/Fletcher%20Build/CY_DD_1079-1_SM.jpg)
I assume its not that big on a model of this size, and does not appear to be midships, but possibly casting it in lead to aid the models stability may be an idea?
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There's currently a thread in the Black Arts section discussing this very subject.
I had a look in the black arts section but couldn't see it? Do you have a link? Thanks.
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I had a look in the black arts section but couldn't see it? Do you have a link? Thanks.
Sorry - the radio section, but thats fairly near.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=39490.0
There are plenty of other threads where the subject gets a mention, some in black arts, some in radio, some in escs, and it needs a bit of reading through since the heading subject doesn't always indicate the actual content of the thread.
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HI Guys
I'm Back :-))
Finally had time to read through everything I've missed. I wont reply to everything but just say everyone is very welcome to post on this thread I think its great to see and hear our peoples work in place long may it continue. those of us daft enough to try and build a nice Lindberg model need to stick together lol.
Well I have managed to sneak off to workshop this week and decided make bilge keels for her. They look very very thin on the pics Harquebus posted I have opted to use 1mm plastic card cut in 6mm strips from the long edge of a A4 sheet which is approximately the correct Length. One of my books as a nice drawing showing the position. I use a UK 1 pence coin as template to draw round and filed a rounded ends to both strakes. I also sand a 45 degree angle to long edge that attaches to the hull to assist in getting the right angle and give a greater surface area for gluing this a stronger joint.
Carefully positioning using a engineers square to get angle and blu tak to hold in place using liquid plastic weld glue the stake in position remember there is a slight upwards angle from mid point forward. Doesn't show well in pics.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel088.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel089.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel090.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel091.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel092.jpg)
Next stage will be checking everything ready for paint I will leave the railings and nets to she's fully tested as these can be damaged very easily
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The perspective exaggerates the size of the dome, but yes, it is mounted forward of the No.1 Turret: (http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/attachments/naval-warfare/22651d1287189085-destroyers-fletcher-class-0555703.jpg)
I think I will incorporate one into my planned build, just to be "xxxxx".
I assume its not that big on a model of this size, and does not appear to be midships, but possibly casting it in lead to aid the models stability may be an idea?
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Managed to build the dome.
Yes I agree it will aid in the Fletcher's ballasting. It consisted of a concrete mixture that came out of another ship so I just had to file it to shape. I shall mount it tomorrow. I will then do the sides of the Hull with stabilizers.Glad for the picture so now I know where to Mountbatten. Good job Glen.
I am waiting for paint still. They tell me the hold up is they are waiting for kit of USS Missouri as they ran out of stock. This is included in my paint order. I have ordered a smoke unit and also she now has working searchlights. Looks good.
Ok Glen will pm you this weekend I did I thought but it went to Martin instead. Good ar'nt I?
Ok will plod and have really only to fit up the twin rudders and will take the Hull down to the billabong to see how she is going so far.
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It appears now that their is a difference of opinions really regarding single rudder versus twin rudders on these here Fletcher's. If single rudder why do I need to fix the twin rudders? Can someone advise please?
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charles remember your building a working model designed to seen on water above to waterline. twin rudders while not whats on the real thing will give better manoveurabillity handy at low speed or in tight spots. Single rudder while authentic will just like the real ships give you poor handling at any speed unless you fitt expensive mixer and a esc for each motor.
I'm not bothering with the sonar dome as unless its sinks it won't be seen
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Glen yes I know anyhow I will take a chance then and not rework it again. I will keep single and use twins on Nimitz where they will be good for her manouvering.
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Hey Glen,
Just a quick question, I have never used etching parts before, what did you use to fix the parts, is it super glue?
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You are at my command, you will keep adding missing details to the monstrosity (I mean your Blue Devil) that I find and it will never end... (maniacal laughing)
I think the sonar dome is "canoe shaped" fore to aft for better hydrodynamics. The term I used that got censored has to do with the end of the alimentary canal and in the context I meant means "excessive attention to detail". A little bit of Freudian psychoanalysis folks, nothing to be alarmed at.
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HAHAHA I'm afraid my sonar dome is a wee bit big for a sonar dome, so I will change my story and say Concrete ballast extra long sonar dome Hmmmmm.
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Hi Charles
Yes mate. You get different viscosities (runniness) for etch work I use the high (thick not very runny) vicosity appling it with a cocktail stick and use a spray accerator to set it instantly. However there are times when solder is the best option
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Thanks Glen,
Looks like a Hobby king order coming up.
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Armo61, I think you should fit all 3 rudders. :-) Have your Devil be a test bed for rudder testing. It would serve us all very well. So: plug the holes for the twin rudder setup, try one rudder, remove it and plug the hole and then try it with twins fitted.
Then mount all three and be done with it. Think of the possibilities... O0
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Very very good,
Give me some of what you are on and make my day haha
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Hi guys
At last she ready for painting next time you her she'll be blue
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel093.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel094.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel095.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel096.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel097.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel098.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel099.jpg)
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Beautiful. What a lovely piece of engineering. :-))
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Very nice conversion....Can't wait to see it in paint!...
Alan :-))
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I have to agree with all the above... :-))
PeeJay
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Hi Guys
Thanks very much for the nice comments. I'm very pleased with her so far its almost a shame to paint her.
Painting stage 1
Priming the whole model grey I use halford grey primer
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel100_zps1f719c35.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel101_zps75b659d8.jpg)
After the primer has had 24 hours to dry I used a small engineering square, HB pencil some tape and blu tak to make a height gauge to draw on the water line ready to mask up and paint the anti fouling
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel103_zps90c1c0f4.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel102_zpsa87188ca.jpg)
will show more pics after each stage
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Looking good there Glen,
All that work is nearly finished matey. It is a shame to cover the brass work but at least all of us know whats underneath the paint dont we? or do we hahaha. Great work mate. :-))
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She is really looking fine. I re-read your thread to see if you are modeling the Melvin herself or another Fletcher class destroyer. I have been thinking about the best color scheme. I painted my original Melvin per the kit instructions and I am partial to that type of camouflage -- variations of Measure 31, per this site: http://nautilusmodels.com/camouflage.htm. However, I do recall that the measure 31 does a great job of what it was intended to do -- breaking up the ship's lines. I particularly noticed that when she was at any distance during her free-running days.
The Measure 22, such as is worn on the USS Kidd shows off the ship's lines, but isn't quite as colorful or interesting, and I find the solid schemes even less colorful and interesting.
Anyway, I am just curious about the final color scheme you intend to use on your model. I am sure that it well be a real masterpiece, and I look forward to seeing her on the water.
PeeJay (Pete G.)
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Hi Peejay
I'm modelling uss melvin during her entire war service she wore measure 21 camoflauge navy blue all over. hence her nick name the blue devil
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Thanks. She should look really good. Looking forward to the next report.
PeeJay
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Your welcome peejay
Painting update
Well guys as you can see I Done the anti fouling and decks now.
For the anti fouling I used Halfords red primer this a very close match to anti fouling paint used b most navies. While Halfords spray paints can be a little expensive they do I find produce a fine finish.
For the decks I used Humbrol Matt 67 tank grey which according to a conversion chart I found is the equivalent of us navy deck blue 20-B
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_21.htm (http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_21.htm)
http://www.paint4models.com/ (http://www.paint4models.com/)
You will also notice I have add the ships name to the stern. The reason for doing it now is during my research I noticed the ships carried there names embossed on the stern I also noticed that most during the war years where left in place but paint over. By using 3mm self adhesive lettering I hope to replicate this and Melvin will proudly where her name on the stern embossed in navy blue
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel104.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel105.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel106.jpg)
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Nice work mate keep goin. I never got a reply really bits and pieces yet from PM?
Charles
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Hi charles
really I'm sure I replied to them. Don't worry its in hand I'll have the price by next week been very bust here Mrs D has had me doing jobs about the house
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Well guys the main bulk of painting is now done
The embossed name painted over has worked well
colours used so far
Humbrol 104 oxford blue
Humbrol 67 tank grey
Halfords red primer
Now for the touching and detailing. I'm not sure what colour to paint the gaiters on the main guns as I think deck won't look right. I've seen white, black and green for the canvas anyone got any suggestion?
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel107.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel108.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel109.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel110.jpg)
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Very nice Glen. I compliment you sir.
Nearing home base now shipmate.
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The embossed Melvin is a nice touch
Dave
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thanks charles theres light at the end of the tunnel
thank you dave i'm very pleased it worked
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Are you going to paint the black boot top on the waterline; basically a demarcation line between the top hull color and the anti-fouling red on the lower hull???
As for the canvas, white would draw too much attention; I think they either used an appropriately colored canvas that matched the overall ship color or something complimentary. I would nevertheless paint it a shade off or "faded".
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A nice picture on here - http://www.hullnumber.com/DD-680
No sign of any boot topping. I heard that the camo colour was taken down to the bottom of where the boot topping would have been to reduce the chance of the opposition figuring out the state of lading of fuel/ammo during WW2. Peacetime and an action like Korea could have been different. While researching for my minesweeper, one of the documents did mention that all reflective surfaces such as ports would either be boarded over and painted, painted or removed. Anything visible was to be painted to match its background, so canvas would be painted, but due to the difference in texture between canvas and metal, would probably appear a different colour.
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Hi guys
The answer to your question is yes I will be adding a boot line ask you can see from this picture of melvin stern the black line can be seen in this photo
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img017.jpg)
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I really like the look of her thus far. The contrast of the navy blue sides and deck blue does add a lot of interest. Looking forward to seeing her completed.
PeeJay
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Hi Guys
I remembered seeing this on another forum which answers my question what colour are the canvas boots
some browny green colour by the looks of it
Glen
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/035.jpg)
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Glen.....prior to gun mount fixed mantlet plates [just pre WW11]....both British & American naval gun mounts had a variety of baggy canvas "boots" to cater for the ordnance recoil function and keep water out
Most boots were treated with a natural "bees wax" formulation as a water proofing preservative...so any color of the original woven material just darkened with successive coats of wax...... :-))
Interestingly, the image of "USS Melvin 680" below suggests she had fixed mantlet plates on her gun mounts as opposed to canvas boots .........Derek
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thanks Derek
so canvas covered with bees wax wouldn't take paint
yes it is interesting but have seen other photos where she has boots that just showed clearly the boot line there was some debate about. common sense does suggest that boots are normally fitted. Having sailed in the pacific I know how rough it gets if I was in the gun crew I wouldn't want to get wet.
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Just a quick note – I live not too far from the Kidd Museum and although the folks do an excellent job maintaining the Kidd the bags in the above photo are much lighter than when they replace them from time to time. The HOT (and I mean painfully hot!) Louisiana sun bleaches those bags in short order. When new they are nearly black/dark green. Although Mr. Drummond and his guys do an excellent job keeping the ship historically accurate I have no idea IF that includes the color of the bags.
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thanks rmay so a palish green would be perfect?
do they have a web site as I no thinking about singal flags to fly along with call sign I'd like engaging the enemy with torpedo's
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thanks Derek
so canvas covered with bees wax wouldn't take paint
yes it is interesting but have seen other photos where she has boots that just showed clearly the boot line there was some debate about. common sense does suggest that boots are normally fitted. Having sailed in the pacific I know how rough it gets if I was in the gun crew I wouldn't want to get wet.
An aside, Not being a sailor, don't think the boots were to keep you dry, but to protect that section of barrel that moved 'through' the mounting on recoil/runnout.
There were quite a few ships, with gun mounts open at the rear not to mention those with only a basic "shield"
But I would bow to Derek, who may be able to elaborate on Naval Ordinance's.
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Looks very nice. I did look at a few airfix models in the shop and wondered how expensive it would be to convert to rc. I think I will leave it to the pro's lol
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On the subject of guns, are the replacement brass barrels still available? Seems like they would be a worthwhile investment for a conversion.
PeeJay
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I had figured the canvas was treated in some manner like the WWII Pattern 37 webbing gear which was "blancoed" to match the color of the terrain. Aside from the greenish/brown or "dirty" canvas color we are seeing, I have read that crews did indeed attempt to have everything on the topsides of a matching hue.
Those aftermarket barrels are indeed still available and are something I intend to purchase. The kit barrels are too stubby and don't compare to the long, slender barrels of the real deal. Bigger barrels = more menace. >:-o
http://www.bdbarrels.com/ They are listed there, ninth from the bottom of the page.
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I have actually measure the guns and scaled them they are in fact the right length according to real guns dimensions. I Do how ever agree they look stubby and short mine are fitted as far out as possible and with the boots fitted. I think as they have been moulded fully extended it gives the impression of a stubby barrel.
On The matter of what colour the boots are I was found this picture of Melvin last night would every one agree the boots are black
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel111.jpg)
glen
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Glen,
As you say, I recall reading on another forum, that the kit barrels are indeed the correct legnth, it is the 'large boots,' that make them look short. O0 O0
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Canvas:
following is a relevant quote from the USN instructions
INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAINTING
AND CEMENTING VESSELS
OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY
Edition of June 1943
SECTION 4-E.
Miscellaneous Items.
Canvas. - When required by camouflage instructions, shall be dyed with a preservative (Navy Department Specification 52C26) tinted to the color of the deck blue paint, formula 20-B.
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http://usskidd.com/ (http://usskidd.com/)
By the way take the Virtual Tour on the USS Kidd site!
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Glenn & Others:
Thanks for that info. Looks like I may have to replace the boots instead of the barrels. I have my original model to mess with, so I can do some experimenting for a build of the new kit.
PeeJay.
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It is clear in this photo of a 'Fletcher' that the barrells look short.
http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/ship/row/rocn/heng-yang.htm
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I agree raaty if you look at boots on that pic on the link they are fully extended. I think the answer to the gun debate is personnel choice I for one don't see the need to buy to new barrels when theres nothing wrong with models own barrels. Either way there is no right or wrong barrel lengths appear different depend on the ship, the point after recoil the guns settled at and the angle of the pictures be taken at.
your welcome peejay try using green stuff to make you own boots. its a 2 part modeling putty from games workshop.
Thanks tanker thats helped a lot but after a long chat with a friend of mine both USN and RN used black canvas and as can be seen from the pic of Melvin I posted the boots are a lot darker than anthing else on the ship. I shall be repainting mine black.
well guys the paints very nearly complete. Most of the deck fittings are glued in place. the boot top line is 3mm black self adhesive lining and the pennant numbers are 6mm USN high vis lettering from BECC.
you'll notice the whalers canvas is pale green along with the gun boots. I am still not sure if i will use the boats awnings or not but the gun boots will be black very soon.
all thats left before sea trials is touching up a good dusting and varnishing then refit the shafts and props
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel112.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel113.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel114.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel115.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel116.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel117.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel118.jpg)
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Guys...I am pretty sure I read that the gun mounts on the Fletcher class were 5"/35 caliber ...this means the actual physical length of the barrel is 35 times that of the bore ;D
So 5" x 35 = 175" or 14.58' ...but remember this dimension is from the breech block to the end of the barrel & these may well have had say ~~ 3 1/2' of barrel length inside the gun house :-)) ......Derek
BTW ..... I think the green baggy looks OK [but they may need to weather in the weather a bit]...............& no I am not talking about our OZ cricket team.... {-) {-) {-)
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It is clearer in this photo that the barrels look long, even with the blast bags or canvas "boots" in place. They are almost as long as, if not as long as, the gun house front to back. Touché. ;)
(http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/pix2/0557359.jpg)
http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/0553742.jpg
http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/0555816.jpg
http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/0556903.jpg
http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/pix2/0567427.jpg
http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/0568407.jpg
http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/0568442.jpg
The barrels appear, to my good eye, to be noticeably more slender than the kit barrels... But I must agree, it all boils down to personal preference.
Go your own way. On the kit however, I did move the gun itself as far as it will go forwards inside the gun house until it abuts against the forward wall. Drilled new holes for it on the floor as well.
derekwarner: My sources say the gun nomenclature is 5"/38 caliber. Says the mount in its entirety is a Mk 30.
-Harq
It is clear in this photo of a 'Fletcher' that the barrells look short.
http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/ship/row/rocn/heng-yang.htm
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{-) ...that second image Harquebus :-)).......is a great reason to have a sturdy baggy especially on the 51 & 52 mounts...... O0
The gun house of these class of vessels would have had a huge amount of electro mechanical components & having a GREEN or BLUE south Pacific wall of water entering around the barrel would not be appreciated...... <*<
If these Fletcher class mounts were modernised at some stage to MK30 or 38 caliber ....this would take the barrel length to 15.83' .....Derek
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its interesting this debate about barrel lengths buy my calculations the barrel should protrude no more than 2 guys one stood on the others shoulders the 5"/38 is in fact a multi purpose relatively short barreled gun.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/5%22/38_caliber_gun (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/5%22/38_caliber_gun)
Something to note captains would on occasion try to change the appearance of there ships and barrel extensions was a ploy used a lot to give the impression of heavier armament.
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Yesterday when checking this thread, I saw that Glenn had assembled the Melvin and was doing tub flotation and power tests. This was all on page 5 of the thread. Today, page 5 is AWOL. The last post I get is #178 from October 7.
Anyway, I wanted to comment on how good she is looking. Glenn has gone above and beyond, in my opinion, and has made this kit a true thing of beauty.
PeeJay
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The site has had some upgrade problems Peejay
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Thanks!~ I didn't think that I had dreamed about those "page 5 posts." But when I first bought that kit, I did have dreams about having a model that loos that good. Glen has shown us that the Melvin is worth the effort to make it a great addition to a collection.
I have been to a lot of maritime museums, and a great many models on display are not 100% accurate unless they are the "builders models," as they were carved our as best as the modelers could do with what was available, yet they capture the spirit of the real ship, if not the dimensional accuracy. I believe that Glen's model really captures the spirit of the Fletchers, even if there are those that take issue with the hull of the Lindberg kit.
Even more modern "precise" models have errors. For example:
Just today when I was reviewing photos of my intended Fletcher project, the USS Van Valkenburgh (DD656), I noticed that the forward torpedo mount did not have the "dog house" or cylindrical shield. (Note teh absence of the dog house seen on the absence of the aft mount from the forward torpedo mount. There is just a canvas cover over the mount controls.)
In the USS Kidd walk around book, it states that the shield was to protect the torpedo aimer and fuse setter from the blast of the 5"/38 guns. So I realized that the forward torpedo mount is not in the path of the aft 5"/38 blast, so it does not need a shield. When I went to check the model of Van Valkenburgh sold by MotionModels.com to see if they had a "doghouse" on the forward torpedo mount, I was very surprised to see they do not even have a torpedo mount in that location. The Motion Models Van Valkenburgh model is in the anti-aircraft refit configuration, just like the USS Kidd, with the aft quad 40's moved forward and their directors located on the 01 level where the forward torpedo tubes were originally located.
But Van Valkenburgh was never fitted out with the anti-aircraft upgrade prior to her decommissioning in April of 1946. So the Motion Models USS Van Valkenburgh model is essentially a USS Kidd 'boilerplate' with measure 31 painted on and a 656 decal on the bow and stern.
I would much rather get the configuration of the ship right than make that kind of error with a diimensionally perfect hull. Glen has shown that the kit can be detailed and assembled with a very high level of craftsmanship to be proud of, and, as an operating model, it is a lot more than a piece of decor. When I lived in San Diego, I found that the family was much more responsive to going to the Model Yacht basin to operate model ships and boats than to go to a model flying field.
Looking forward to seeing Glen's Melvin out on the water.
PeeJay
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As there seems to of been a problem with the site I best repost the missing pics
Peejay thank you very much for you kind words about my model I agree with you some people have unjustly slated this kit and for get the essence of modelling "enjoy yourself" I personnelly think theres nothing wrong with linberg hull its the deck that needed things moving.
it looks me like its a canvas cover over the forward torpedo controls peejay
well this first set of pics are of her just before varnishing you'll notice dark areas behind the decals this just gloss varnish which for somereason provides a better surface for decal to stick to. I also repainted the gun boats black and the whaler awnings deck grey looks better than the green
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel119.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel120.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel121.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel122.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel123.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel124.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel125.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel126.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel127.jpg)
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with painting complete and allowed to dry fully I varnished the entire ship with 3 cans of hunbrol 135 spray satin varnish
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel128.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel129.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel130.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel131.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel132.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel133.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel134.jpg)
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the next stage was to fill the shaft tubes with grease and refit the shafts and props. Filled up the bath up. fitted the battery and popped in, she appears to be stable and handled a simulated swell very well. holding the bow gently slowly powered up to full ahead then full astern and back to full head this time putting in port and starboard rudder everything appears to be working well. I left her in the bath for well over an hour no water appeared to of seeped in.
Tomorrow she is going for sea trails once i'm happy with her sail qualities I'll add the finishing touches railing netting crew etc
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel135.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel136.jpg)
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Well Guys this is the one you have been waiting for !!!!!!!!!!
SEA TRIALS REPORT
It was I lovely calm morning so the wife and I took a trip up to my clubs pond to test her.
Battery fitting intailly gave a slight list to port this was resolved by tweeking the battery position (I love velcro) With list sorted and the smoke generators filled off she went gradaully moving up to full ahead zig zagging to prove rudder control. She is very stable at full ahead full rudder left and right produced very little heel over.
Top tip "DONT let the wife drive!!!!!!!!!" the only other boat one the pond is a large static tanker CRUNCH >>:-(
Lucky for her i caught it just in time <*< or it would of been <:(
On a more serious note guys If your thinking of converting to single rudder for authentisities sake DON'T she was not as responsive as I hoped with a about 2m turning circle it would be a lot more with single rudder.
The thing to note is while the 6v battery gives a fairly good scale speed. There is it no resevse for those little emergencies I will be popping over to my friendly model shop next week to get a 7.2v poss 8.4v battery.
Apart from that all she sailed beautifully. The horror stories on anther forum that she'll take in water didn't come true. Guys if your build one yourself copy my method of fitting the deck and adding coamings around the access holes under the superstructures. She was as dry as a bone inside after about 45.mins running
Here the pics hope you all like. Will be taking her out for another test run before adding the railings and crew to finish her off
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel137.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel138.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel139.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel140.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel141.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel142.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel143.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel144.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel145.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel146.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel147.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel148.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel149.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel150.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel151.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel152.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel153.jpg)
I'm really looking forward to hearing your comments guys its been a while but the finish line is in sight :-))
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I think that WOW!!!!!!!!!!! Pretty well sums it up! :D Or, to use a more nautical term, "Splice the main brace!" (Which, for some historical reason, has the meaning, Time to tap a keg!"
PeeJay
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lol peejay thanks
it means a tot of rum for everyman on the ship in the present day royal navy can on only be ordered by the queen :((
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lokks great mate really great :-))
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Excellent.....Boat looks great. So nice to see photo's of the boat at "scale" speed.
The 6 volt battery is my favorite for plastic conversions.
I've just finished my "Gentleman's Launch", and about to start a small Trent Lifeboat and the Lindberg will then follow.
Many Thanks for the excellent build log.
Regards
Alan
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I've thoroughly enjoyed following this thread - I'm looking forward to your next build too O0
Dave
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thank you stormbringer
I'll look forward to see how you get on with her alan feel free to post your build here would be great if we can keep this thread going with others joining in. I also prefer 6v for my models easier when using LES's etc. I found an old 7.2 in my battery box will charge it and take here for another trail tomorrow.
Thanks norseman she not finished yet. my next build will be a vosper 1/32 mtb 379 my wife bought me the plans and wood pack last christmas at same time I'll will be building a 1/46 ant class gun boat with firing main gun. I'm also about to start a 1/32 ish semi scale LCM 3 with my eldest son will do build threads for each.
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Good job well done :-))
Ideal boat for your local pond, not too big or too small...
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Thanks mate will bring her in to see you tuesday see if if you got 7.2 or 8.4 battery that will fit
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Okay, got little uns and normal ones.... ok2
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great see you tuesday.
have you e mailed the form yet?
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Great to see the maiden voyage. :-))
I thought it strange, correct me if I am wrong, that you had not done a float/operation test of the incomplete ship prior to this latest submission. I suppose your float test mentioned on the previous pages sufficed to test how well she floated and to the proper waterline and with acceptable stability?
Your particular destroyer here has several additions that most builders do not consider; The addition of smoke units and servos for turret activation and I was concerned that you had added too much top weight and would find that out the hard way.
Speaking of the smoke unit, can you provide some more details on its installation, maybe even photos of the thing itself? Noticed you kept that portion very secret. If it's for a good reason, please disregard... 8) Have to keep the shipyard spies at bay.
-Harq
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Hi Harq
Didn’t I mention one of the first things I did was dry fit the deck super structures guns extra marked the waterline and popped her into my garden pond. I added lead until the model sank to waterline took her out and weighed her, think it was 1.7kg. Baring this in mind I weighed everything I added the servo’s are very light and only one is fitted high in the hull The brass work is actually lighter than the Items they replace especially the mast head radar. Everything else is fitted as low as possible I also think the bilge keels are help the stability.
I'm working on a model roundhouse at mo. With youngest son for his school homework as soon as I'm done later will give a detailed description of the smoke generators installation.
Glen
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But that was so many posts ago Glen. :P
I think my original intent may have drifted and what I wanted to write, what I was prepared to see but didn't, was you running her in the pond, unpainted and with most of the superstructure off just to make sure the propulsion was functional. So without pics, I was inclined to think none of that happened...
Oh well. My apologies. :-X
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It was a long time ago harq I did do some bath tests before she was painted buts as the shafts can't be filled with grease until after all the paint ing is done they leak like sieves especailly in reverse. so best not risk your model on a pond might be last you of it
Hi Guys
Yesterday she went for her second sea trail. It was another calm day a bit merky to start but brighton up. I First tried a 7.2 battery which gave a good speed but still a bit weak so I took her out and popped in the 8.4v from my PCF Bingo perfect she sailed lovely even though the battery is a bit heavy. I have now bought a smaller 8.4 about half the size.
Hers a link to you tube where I have up loaded a vid of her second sea trail.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Jw3hsENjPk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Jw3hsENjPk)
Heres the pics from the second sea trial
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel154.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel155.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel156.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel157.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel158.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel159.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel160.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel161.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel162.jpg)
The proud Captain and his ship
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel163.jpg)
Any questions guys please ask now the sea trials are done I'll order some suitable crew figures and fit railings and flags
Glen
Can anyone help me out us flag signals during ww2?
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I don't know if they do the right scale -
http://www.hawk-graphics.com/
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Thanks Niall
I already have the flags its the actually signal codes I need I want something like "engaging enemy with torpedos" in reference to her attack and singking of the jap battle ship fuso
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As requested by Harq
Smoke Generator Installation
The two smoke units I used are Graupner Super Smoke Generator 6V units.
To fit the units into the funnel I first made a support out of 1mm plastic card cut the correct shape to it inside the funnel. I marked the position on the smoke generators so they clear the platforms attached to the funnel and drilled out to 10mm so the smoke gen is a snug fit. I then glued the support in place. Once dry painted black and when paint dried fitted the smoke generators I did NOT glue these in.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel164.jpg)
I glues a small junction block to the underside of the superstructure and wired in both generators in parallel on one side and the male connector of a JST lead to the other
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel165.jpg)
The female JST lead was connected into the same junction block as the motors. The idea is this will give smoke in proportion to speed and allow the superstructure to be removed completely away from the hull.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel166.jpg)
The Whole ship so far is wired as such
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/MelvinCircuitDiagram.jpg)
Any more things I didn't post you would like to know please ask
Glen
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Hi Guys
Not been able to do any work on her over the weekend or during the week due to helping youngestest son with his homework. Had to help him build a iron age round house. took us a week but we built this,
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel167.jpg)
He's very proud of it even if he did super glue 2 fingers together
Yesterday I start on the finishing touches. First thing to do is the railings along the main deck. The toms brass etch set comes with railing but these are very flimsy and need strengthening. I used .5mm brass rod as stanchions which I soldered to the railings using a large photo for reference.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel168.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel169.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel170.jpg)
I carefully drilled holes into the main deck ant dry fitted the railing, I did on 1 hole drill through the hull which I'll have to fill and repaint later.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel171.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel172.jpg)
I think the brass rod stanchions on the outside add a another detail dimension to the ship and more pleasing to the eye.
Glen
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cool roundhouse and the melvins looking great as well :-))
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Thanks stormbringer
Well guys after 3 days of soldering I finally got all the railings done. I next primed them after a good clean. The next step was to sprayed with 2 coats of humbrol polished steel 27003 which is a great product for metal finishes. I goes on flat but once fully dry polishes up to a very realistic metal finish. The stanchions were painted the same colour as the hull
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel173.jpg)
The top railings are the unpolished raw state
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel174.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel175.jpg)
While I was at the soldering I made the flag staff for the bow. This is made from 1mm and .5mm brass rod soldered to form a cross and bent to shape before painting.
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel176.jpg)
I have also added the rigging the Ariel's are a steel gray cotton will added some more details pics of this soon. The Signal flags are from BECC model accessories 10mm international code set A and B and glued to fine cotton rope coloured for the halliard's
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel178.jpg)
The US Ensign Is also BECC 25mm US Flag
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel177.jpg)
Will be fitting the railings today and hopefully make a start on some crew for her.
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Glenn - she looks really good with those railings and rigging. I was looking at photos from "USS KIDD - On Deck", and can see how your method really replicates the look of the lifelines.
PeeJay
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Thanks peejay
I have also been looking at photo's of USS Kidd trying the work out what colour the netting is on the railings. Looks like a light brown to me
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Here are some close-up pictures that I found on the internet, which look like they were scanned from the USS KIDD book. Note the far right of the Depth charge roller rack, where it looks like some of the haze gray from the roller rack has gotten on to the netting, which appears to be black or gun-metal gray. The picture of the port side depth charge racks has some sunlight on the netting just above the deck. There, the netting appears to be a gray color. Everywhere else, it looks black, but I think that is because it is silhouetted by the lighting.
The current requirements for safety net construction are in the publication at this link http://www.public.navy.mil/navsafecen/Documents/afloat/Surface/DckAr/D_Ref/600HullEqp1.pdf (http://www.public.navy.mil/navsafecen/Documents/afloat/Surface/DckAr/D_Ref/600HullEqp1.pdf) Navships Technical Manual for Hull Outfitting Equipment. The manual calls out nylon, which was not available in WW2 and CRES (corrosion resistant stainless steel) in areas subject to blast, so a gunmetal finish would probably be appropriate.
PeeJay
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I didn't mean to double post the Depth Charge Roller Rack. I meant to post this picture instead:
PeeJay
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Thanks for the pics and info peejay. I sprayed to netting black today
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Hi Guys
as promised some detailed pics of rigging
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel179.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel180.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel181.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel182.jpg)
She is very nearly finished just the netting to fit
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel183.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel184.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel185.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel186.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel187.jpg)
A friend gave me these figures from revel U99 kit the same scale as melvin just need to mofify a few and repaint as us navy
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel188.jpg)
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See if you can clone those figures in resin but first modify them so they are wearing "Mae Wests" and M1 helmets. Both of those items would be painted a dark or medium blue. I'd love to have a Blue Devil crew at battle stations, manning the guns/sitting in the dual 40mm's, etc. The 1/125 Lindberg LCU and Minesweeper also has a few figures in this scale and at least one of them has an M1 on his head...
If you are successful in your endeavor, I would buy several sets. O0
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lol no i'm just adjusting there poses and repainting
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Hi Guys
Very sorry not completed this thread as planned the build had to be put on hold while some work was done on the house then christmas took over. Now everthing is back to normal I will be locking myself in my workshop and finishing her off.
Glen
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Hmmmmm... this will be reflected you your wage packet at the end of the month! <*<
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Very nice work......I have actually started mine now!........I thought I would try and build it as cheaply as possible as I want to concentrate funds on my next build, The Trumpter 1/200 Bismark.
All the best plans seem to fail when I get involved, I'm aftraid. I built up the single motor driving the modified twin shafted gearbox as per kit instructions, It worked OK for a while but the gearbox was noisy and the shafts didn't run smoothly in the plastic outers....eventually the motor gave up in a cloud of smoke. So I thought I would fit "proper" components.
I ordered a Mktronics 400 motor, M2 Prop shaft and tube, Brass three bladed prop and brass rudder, all from modelboatbits. I realise the boat should have twin props, but for simplicity I have gone with one. I'll run the motor with a 6Volt Lead Acid, Mktronics 15amp ESC, and Planet 2.4 Receiver. This setup works well for me.
As for paint finish, I'm not all that keen on the "Blue Livery", so I think I'll go for a camo pattern dark and light grey. I'm sure i've seen photo's of this setup.
Love to see some video of your boat in the water it should look fantastic.....Thanks for sharing.
Regards
Alan
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lol Martin makes me glad I'm retired
Well alan as uss melvin is my subject I had no choice but to go the navy blue route as that the only scheme she wore during the war. However if you pic another ship you have a massive choice of schemes I could upload some pics of the schemes with colours if you like.
Glen
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Hi Glen....Yes I rather like this Paint Scheme...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/FletcherCamoscheme_zpsa3b373f4.jpg)
Alan
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Hi Guys
Very sorry not completed this thread as planned the build had to be put on hold while some work was done on the house then christmas took over. Now everthing is back to normal I will be locking myself in my workshop and finishing her off.
Glen
Happy New Year, Glen and fellow forum members!
During my annual taking down of the Christmas lights yesterday, I was able to work a path in the garage to my Fletcher box containing the remnants of my original Blue Devil and the parts from an unbuilt kit. I pulled a couple of decks to help in scaling the plans.
I had forgotten how small some of those parts are in 1:125 scale, which causes me to marvel even more at the outstanding job you have done on your conversion thus far. You have set the bar high.
PeeJay
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lol Martin makes me glad I'm retired
Well alan as uss melvin is my subject I had no choice but to go the navy blue route as that the only scheme she wore during the war. However if you pic another ship you have a massive choice of schemes I could upload some pics of the schemes with colours if you like.
Glen
Glen,
Would also be interested in them, thank you. :-)) :-))
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I had forgotten how small some of those parts are in 1:125 scale, which causes me to marvel even more at the outstanding job you have done on your conversion thus far. You have set the bar high.
Small parts?! I guess you haven't seen others work some particularly superb magic in 1/700. 1/125 is huge! ok2
1/108 Tugboat (http://tieba.baidu.com/p/1865420029?), about as long as one's hand. You're right, such a small size (close to 1/125) is a mere trifle.
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Small parts?! I guess you haven't seen others work some particularly superb magic in 1/700. 1/125 is huge! ok2
1/108 Tugboat (http://tieba.baidu.com/p/1865420029?), about as long as one's hand. You're right, such a small size (close to 1/125) is a mere trifle.
I have worked in the smaller scales, and the Revell USS Missourri was my first plastic kit back in the 50's. You just do not try to simulate the wiring of the gun sights in that scale. I have learned that there is a certain amount of realism in the smaller scales that comes from knowing what to leave off the model. My point was that when looking at gunsights, directors, lookout chairs, etc., the proper sized parts in 1:125 are quite small and might not even be attempted in a 1:350 or 1:700 model. (On the other hand, I do have Loren Perry's photoetch for the Revell Arizona and the 1:350 Titanic, complete with passengers.)
PeeJay
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Hi Guys
As promise fletcher camoflague patterns. The last number is the humbrol paint number
Measure 32/24D
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
5-O Ocean Grey 123
Sides
5-L Light Grey 127
Black 33
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img026.jpg)
Measure 32/16D
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
5-O Ocean Grey 123
Sides
5-L Light Grey 127
5-O Ocean Grey 123
Black 33
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img025.jpg)
Measure 32/14D
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
5-O Ocean Grey 123
Sides
5-L Light Grey 127
Black 33
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img024.jpg)
Measure 32/13D
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
5-O Ocean Grey 123
Sides
5-L Light Grey 127
Black 33
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img023.jpg)
Measure 32/1D
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
5-O Ocean Grey 123
Sides
5-L Light Grey 127
Black 33
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img022.jpg)
Measure 12
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
Sides
5-S Sea Blue 96
5-O Ocean Grey 123
5-H Haze Grey 127
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img021.jpg)
Measure 22
Deck
20-B Deck Blue 67
Sides
5-H Haze Grey 127
5-N Navy Blue 104
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/img020.jpg)
Hope this of use to you guys making other ships. If you got to this link there is a list of all ships in the class and the camoflafe schemes they wore
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/fletcher_class.htm (http://www.shipcamouflage.com/fletcher_class.htm)
Glen
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Great profiles, Glenn. They look very much like the ones in the Ship Craft book, "Shipcraft 8, Fletcher Class Destroyers." I just got this book for Christmas (with the help of Amazon.com ok2 )and I would strongly recommend it. It is the best reference I have seen to date, and well worth the wait for it to come "across the pond."
I have been researching the USS Van Valkenburgh (DD-656), which wore Measure 31/9D Camouflage her entire life. This was apparently rare, as I have not seen photos of any other destroyer in this pattern. Here are the patterns from the website Glenn referenced above.
PeeJay
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I have that book too peejay but there are much better references books I didn't find the shipcraft book that useful. My best reference was Fletcher class destroyers by Alan Raven and Fletcher DD's in action
Highly recommend these books
I believe anatomy of ships do a Fletcher book too.
Glen
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I guess one reason that I found it to be a really good book is that it has a logical discussion of the differences between individual ships. The other books seem to show a "hodge podge" of different looking Fletchers with little explanation, other than the round vs square bridge discussion. Further, I did not know the reason for the change to the 'square bridge' was for faster production and inspiration from the British Navy to have an "open bridge" forward of the pilothouse. When "Fletchers in Action" addresses the increase in 40MM guns, they are not really talking about the emergency AA refit, as installed on the USS Kidd, but the increase of 40MM on the original Fletchers, which had 20MM guns in the forward gun tubs, where 40 MM guns were later installed.
In all fairness, the Fletchers in Action book was written many years ago, and the internet has really increased the availability of data and sources of photographs. And I do not have the Alan Raven book.
Prior to really getting into this and the Fletcher forums here and on The Ship Model Forum Website, I knew about "round bridge" vs. "square bridge" Fletchers, but little else. My curiosity was really aroused when I bought the book on the USS Kidd, which is shown in the last profile you posted, and it was missing the forward torpedo mount like the one on the Blue Devil kit. There is a small profile in the Kidd book, showing her in an earlier configuration with a Measure 32 pattern camouflage, but I have found few photos to confirm the exact scheme she wore in her earlier days.
I have ordered the two destroyer books by Dave McComb, who is a major contributor to www.Destroyerhistory.org (http://www.Destroyerhistory.org) and offers the plans CD for the Fletcher class ships. The CD includes the major variants. David is extremely knowledgeable, and his history of the USS Van Valkenburgh (DD656), as well as her splinter camouflage, inspired me to build her from my Lindbergh kit. Although I am still in the "research phase," I will be cutting plastic very soon. Just picked up a couple new razor saw blades to deal with those pesky bulwarks where canvas covered rails belong. I think I have a sprue cutter tucked away somewhere, which should also help.
PeeJay
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I will look forward to seeing your efforts peejay. Research is always my favourite part of modelling.
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Hi Guys
I have spent the week painting the crew the last job. They are tiny buggers %% . As ever I used humbrol paints I used Osprey books Elite 80 The US Navy in World War 2 for reference
The officers
uniform and hats 121
belts 29
skin 61
shoe's and hat bands 85
Enlisted Men
Shirt 144
trousers and pork pie's 104 89 mixed 5:1
shoe's 85
skin 61
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel189.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel190.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel191.jpg)
They took 4 day's to paint For some reason the paints took ages to dry
I'll be fitting the netting and crew sometime in the next few day's and excitingly she'll be a finished model photo's to follow very soon
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Your crew looks like they will "do you proud!" Excellent work.
PeeJay
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Thanks Peejay
Well guys after 6 months work I have finally got a finished model. Its be a lot of fun and I have learnt a lot about the ship and her sisters I have also discovered that after hearing and reading so much negativity about this kit I have also learnt that you should make your own mind up. this model would never of got built if I had believed what others said.
So without further ado here she is my
USS MELVIN DD-680 THE BLUE DEVIL
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel192.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel193.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel194.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel195.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel196.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel197.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel199.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel200.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel201.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel202.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel203.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel205.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel204.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/ussmel203.jpg)
I very much hope you all liked and please tell me me what you think. I look forward to reading your comments
Glen
Forgot to mention she with be on display at the Midhurst show on 17th February please come along and see her in person
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Lookin good, thanks for all the tips :-)) :-)) :-))
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Glen -- I am sure that Lindbergh never dreamed that this kit could be built to look so good when they put it on the market. I am with you regarding not letting the negative views of some people preventing anyone from building it. I think your model will not only surprise the naysayers with its outstanding attention to detail and 'clean' building, but will absolutely floor the spectators when you take that 'museum piece' and put it in the water to go full steam ahead (and reverse) with smoke belching from the stacks. That kind of reaction is a reward in itself.
You have set the bar high. I have to agree with your comments about leaning a lot about the Fletcher Class destroyers in the course of researching the model. There are a lot of things that I didn't know about the various Fletcher configurations, as well as the type and location of most of the battles they were engaged in, and the horrendous loss of life their crews incurred while protecting 'the big ships' from the enemy. I look forward to proceeding with my own build, and, when I do, I will be sure to share it in a new thread in this forum.
Congratulations on a fine accomplishment.
PeeJay
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I agree with all PeeJay said and for my own part this. I am not really a warship lover yet I have entirely enjoyed your build and your problems with it. What a great way to treat a kit :-)) Now I think I'd like to see it side by side with one in that dazzle? camoflage. O0 Can you talk someone into it please Glen? .... oh no, don't look at me.
Dave
What's the next build?
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I had the Lindberg fletcher once and noted that the main director couldn't be trained abeam as it caught the walls surrounding the platform it is on.
So which is the bad part? the director? or the narrowness of the platform it sits on? I found this on the net, it shows a director not much bigger than thepedastel it sits on and is nowhere near the rails.
(http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/attachments/naval-warfare/24352d1297655464-destroyers-fletcher-class-balsa_wood_raft_005.jpg)
To the OP, great build. :-)) Fletchers are a bit of a soft spot for me since owning the Melvin and I may follow your footsteps on day.
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Congratulations Glen.....A wonderful build, great step by step build log and a result to be proud of.
Will look great steaming around any pond.
Mine is waiting for ESC and receiver at the moment and for the cold weather to finish....
Once again...great work.
Alan
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Nice one Glen! :-))
... what's next? O0
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I had the Lindberg fletcher once and noted that the main director couldn't be trained abeam as it caught the walls surrounding the platform it is on.
So which is the bad part? the director? or the narrowness of the platform it sits on? I found this on the net, it shows a director not much bigger than thepedastel it sits on and is nowhere near the rails.
(http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/attachments/naval-warfare/24352d1297655464-destroyers-fletcher-class-balsa_wood_raft_005.jpg)
To the OP, great build. :-)) Fletchers are a bit of a soft spot for me since owning the Melvin and I may follow your footsteps on day.
Pondweed -- I purchased the plan DVD from the Destroyer Historical Foundation, which you can find here: http://destroyerhistory.org/destroyers/store/ (http://destroyerhistory.org/destroyers/store/)[/size] After scaling the drawings to the same size as the midships deckhouse roofs with the same spacing between the torpedo mounts, it appears that the bridge deck and pilot house may be too narrow, cramping the space in which the director rotates. It also appears that the Lindbergh director tapers too much in the front, because its fore and aft dimension is too long. That causes the front of the director to hit the rail when it rotates. It may also have the pivot point a little too far aft, which would add to the problem. Those problems can be fixed with some major kitbashing. (Cut back the front of the director, widen the bridge deck, enlarge the pilot house -- you have to replace the front of the pilot house for the proper number of 5 portholes, anyway.) It just depends on how far you are willing to go to modify or replace the kit parts.
[/size]
[/size]As stated by the book, "Shipcraft 8, Fletcher Class Destroyers." (an excellent reference available from Amazon), The Lindbergh kit reminds one "of the story of the axe: 'it turned out to be a rather good axe after I replaced the blade and then replaced the handle.' "
[/size]
[/size]That is one of the reasons that I find Glen's model so incredible. Considering what he started out with, he has done an outstanding job of transformation into a quality model.
[/size]
[/size]PeeJay
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It appears that the bridge deck and pilot house may be too narrow, cramping the space in which the director rotates. It also appears that the Lindbergh director tapers too much in the front, because its fore and aft dimension is too long. That causes the front of the director to hit the rail when it rotates. It may also have the pivot point a little too far aft,
The story of the axe: 'it turned out to be a rather good axe after I replaced the blade and then replaced the handle.' "
Thanks for confirming, if it were me (and ignoring the front of the pilot house for the moment) I'd remove the walls around that area, remove and replace the pivot point to the correct site (or make the pedastel) and re-do the director to the correct size whether by remodelling the original piece or by making new. Whatever was easiest and best.
But modelling is down to individual choice. How I'd do it may not be right for others.
Cheers
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Thanks for confirming, if it were me (and ignoring the front of the pilot house for the moment) I'd remove the walls around that area, remove and replace the pivot point to the correct site (or make the pedastel) and re-do the director to the correct size whether by remodelling the original piece or by making new. Whatever was easiest and best.
But modelling is down to individual choice. How I'd do it may not be right for others.
Cheers
Pondweed -- I meant to ask earlier -- where did you find the picture you posted? That is a very finely detailed model. I don't believe coming acrosss that model before.
PeeJay
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I found it via a google search for fletcher class destroyers. The image was posted on this forum.
http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/naval-warfare/56651-destroyers-fletcher-class-30.html (http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/naval-warfare/56651-destroyers-fletcher-class-30.html)
The text in the post says the image is from "this illustration from Bellspec's Model website"
Whoever made it, she's a cracker, isn't she ?
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I found it via a google search for fletcher class destroyers. The image was posted on this forum.
http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/naval-warfare/56651-destroyers-fletcher-class-30.html (http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/naval-warfare/56651-destroyers-fletcher-class-30.html)
The text in the post says the image is from "this illustration from Bellspec's Model website"
Whoever made it, she's a cracker, isn't she ?
My initial reaction was that it was the model of the USS The Sullivans, built by Fine Art Models, but the life rafts on that model are mounted and shaped differently. She is a beauty, and I would suspect, based on the amount of detail, that it may be a 1:48 model. Lots of detail to shoot for in a 1:125 build!
PeeJay
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My initial reaction was that it was the model of the USS The Sullivans, built by Fine Art Models, but the life rafts on that model are mounted and shaped differently. She is a beauty, and I would suspect, based on the amount of detail, that it may be a 1:48 model. Lots of detail to shoot for in a 1:125 build!
PeeJay
Looking at the scale of the various nettings and meshes, they are quite crude (big) for that big a scale, I'll split the difference with you and say 1:96
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Hi Guys
Firstly thankyou all for your nice comments they do mean a lot to me.
Martin thank you My next project is going to be a bit of a whopper. I have for years always wanted to build and aircraft carrier and the exploits of Force H have always interested me so intend to build Force H ships that served with the force in 1941 particularly the ships at the time of the bismark sinking
peejay and pondweed be very carefully your comparing the linberg kit with a proffesionally scratch built model which is 1/192 scale its in your shipcraft book peejay
Glen
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Pondweed, et al,
That Fletcher in the pics looks like Bob Steinbrunn's USS Kidd. An award winner in 1/192 scale. I'm certain that that's it. I think Glen already knows this as he's right about the scale. There's plenty of pics of that build online and on the major model boating sites.
Congrats on finishing the destroyer, by the way. :-))
Great build thread and documentation and I've directed a lot of non-members to your build from off-site as a result.
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Don Pruel's 1/196 model is on the cover of the Shipcraft Volume, "Fletcher Class Destroyers," and is, indeed, very similar. There are differences, though, in the coloring of the life rafts, the equipment on top of the pilot house, coloring of torpedo director and canvas boot on the director's optical range finder. It could still be that model -- just a different iteration, as I know that many models are "never finished." :)
Beautiful work, at any rate, in any scale. Something to aspire to, but I do realize those are models of professionals, as Glen has pointed out, and not an upgrade of the Blue Devil. I have to agree with Harquebus regarding Glen's build as documentation for the Lindbergh kit. I have downloaded his photos of several steps in his construction, as well as referring this thread to a number of posters that have appeared recently on the RC Groups scale ships and Dock Talk forums.
PeeJay
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Great build mate. Takes time to create something like that. Congrats. So an aircraft carrier next, entering the world of good stuff now mate. Ask Alan T . I still like his build. NIMITZ is just around the corner too.
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Well, Glen -- your transformation of this kit, and the availability of Tom's photo etch -- which you used so expertly -- have gotten me going. My Tom's order has been sent, and I think I now have the Fletcher CD plans properly scaled for the Blue Devil build. Next post from me regarding my work will be on my own build thread.
PeeJay
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Hi Guys
Thanks for all the lovely comments. For those who might be interested my model of Melvin will be on display at MidHurst Modeller Exhibition on Sunday 17th February This will be the first time I have exhibited I'll be on the Fareham and District Soceity of Model Engineers Stand Please come and say hi and see Melvin in the Flesh. Details on the link
http://www.thegrange.org.uk/content/view/78/72/ (http://www.thegrange.org.uk/content/view/78/72/)
Glen
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Hi Guys
Thought you would like to see some pics of her on display last weekend with my PCF "swift boat" and M class Destroyer HMS Opal
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/20130217_092946_zpsf697d5c3.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/20130217_093030_zps1d777c45.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/20130217_093055_zps505f5fa1.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/20130217_093150_zpsa58ddcc2.jpg)
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/seaharrierman/20130217_093205_zps4f78592f.jpg)
I hope so of you were there and saw her
Glen
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Thanks for the post. I am just a tad bit too far "across the pond" from you, so I was unable to get to the exhibition. Looks like there were some great projects. I have received Tom's Modelworks PE set, and it really shows me the precision of your work on this kit. Glad that others could see it.
PeeJay
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No, don't do it Alan, you'll hate yourself if you go with the one-propeller setup! <:( <:( <:(
I understand your misgivings. You made the first fatal error in trying to use the included Rube Goldberg contraption (i.e., "gearbox" and I use the term loosely here) to operate the two shafts and it failed. And now you have this sort of self-defeating attitude going on which is killing your confidence. A twin motor/twin prop setup can be done, and with all the expertise available on this forum (free of charge) giving you all the moral support you need, you cannot go wrong and you cannot fail.
In a way, you're making it simple but still complicated. You'll have to plug the original shaft holes and drill another one for your single shaft whereas if you go the way it was intended, there's no holes to fill. :-) Well, I tried...
All the best plans seem to fail when I get involved, I'm aftraid. I built up the single motor driving the modified twin shafted gearbox as per kit instructions, It worked OK for a while but the gearbox was noisy and the shafts didn't run smoothly in the plastic outers....eventually the motor gave up in a cloud of smoke. So I thought I would fit "proper" components.
I ordered a Mktronics 400 motor, M2 Prop shaft and tube, Brass three bladed prop and brass rudder, all from modelboatbits. I realise the boat should have twin props, but for simplicity I have gone with one.
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I think I read somewhere that the director for the Blue Devil is indeed quite oversized and for that matter shaped wrong in almost every dimension (It is so big that it almost mimics the size of the 5"/38 turrets). The real one has a second "bevel" on the front; it's not just one angle. The kit director is also, as already discussed, mounted too low on the pilothouse roof. It needs a small riser or pedestal. An aftermarket resin-cast director (as well as five accurately shaped gun turrets) was produced for the Blue Devil some years ago.
See here (http://dreadnoughts.theshoppe.com/products.htm).
So, there's several options for correcting this. :-))
I had the Lindberg fletcher once and noted that the main director couldn't be trained abeam as it caught the walls surrounding the platform it is on.
So which is the bad part? the director? or the narrowness of the platform it sits on? I found this on the net, it shows a director not much bigger than thepedastel it sits on and is nowhere near the rails.
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thanks peejay and good luck with yours
I've said before harquebus and I'll say it again This kit is a toy designed as toy hence the chunky mouldings if your after a perfect precision model I'd bin the lindy and start from scratch lol. People do tend to forget the target age group for this model is 10 ideal for me :D
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Getting there....slowly! :-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03441_zpsb3de9f4d.jpg)
Alan
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looking good alan
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I've said before harquebus and I'll say it again This kit is a toy designed as toy hence the chunky mouldings if your after a perfect precision model I'd bin the lindy and start from scratch lol. People do tend to forget the target age group for this model is 10 ideal for me :D
I don't think anyone is being critical, I think it's just acknowledging where the faults are. I for one thought it a good basis for a kit.
From what I recall of the price [£60?] you could pay that for a fibreglass hull. How much is a 1/96 destroyer semi-kit? £200-300? So you get what you pay for. I'd even go as far to say people would enjoy correcting it and improving the details.
p.s. I've just looked at the Lindberg site and I'm quite impressed with these models:
- the German Aircraft Carrier Graf Zeppelin in 1:200 at 56in long.
- Imperial Japanese Navy Submarine C-1 (class) I-20 & the HA-20 Midget Sub in 1:72 at 58in long
- Imperial Japanese Navy Submarine C-3 (class) I-53 with Kaiten "Kamikaze" Torpedoes in 1:72 at 58.5in long
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morning all have finshed my flecter destroyer i am going to run it on a 6 volt 1 1/2 amp battery just the right weight .. all i can afford what fuse and esc will i need thanks
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how many motors you running?
Mines a mtroniks 20amp ESC running 2 280 motors at 8.4v no fuse
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Mine is a Mktronics 15amp ESc with Mktronics 400 single motor running on 7.2V
Alan
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There was some recent discussion regarding fuses in low current drain R/C conversion applications on another forum off-site. I'm not sure what the protections and failsafes Mtroniks claims on their products do, but do these features, namely the 1st, 2nd and 8th preclude any need of an inline fuse? What exact protections/failsafes are they claiming and how do they function?
- NEW built in failsafe to protect against complete loss of signal or when out of range (compatible with all manufacturers receivers)**INDUSTRY FIRST**
- ABSOLUTE short circuit and motor overload protection
- 15Amp motor limit
- 1.2A BEC
- Dual core microprocessor
- 5 -10 cells input voltage (6.0-12.0V)
- 4 Layer super power circuit board
- Thermal integrated protection system
I love this build log; so much information to share and discuss. Let's see if we can get her up to 100+/- pages... O0
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Except there are no longer any 10 year olds drooling over this kit like there were decades ago (they all grew up, are on a nostalgia bent and are currently revisiting their youth with this abomination of a kit). Kids these days, young men, cannot be pried away from their video games long enough to even ascertain whether this hobby even exists. It's so far beyond their interests these days, I have not words to describe it. <:( :-)
-Harq
thanks peejay and good luck with yours
I've said before harquebus and I'll say it again This kit is a toy designed as toy hence the chunky mouldings if your after a perfect precision model I'd bin the lindy and start from scratch lol. People do tend to forget the target age group for this model is 10 ideal for me :D
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that's so true harq.
My boys think think the world ends if the xbox isn't allowed. We limit access to encourage other interested and my eldest is now showing good promise in become the next generation modeller still need to learn patients
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Except there are no longer any 10 year olds drooling over this kit like there were decades ago (they all grew up, are on a nostalgia bent and are currently revisiting their youth with this abomination of a kit). Kids these days, young men, cannot be pried away from their video games long enough to even ascertain whether this hobby even exists. It's so far beyond their interests these days, I have not words to describe it. <:( :-)
-Harq
I would have to agree with Harquebus regarding the nostalgia associated with this kit. However, I can't totally agree that it is an 'abomination.' I have been scaling the drawings to do my mods to the Blue Devil, and although there are some very obvious errors, the plans actually do scale out to 1:125, based on the Fletcher Class Plans CD. And, although I have spent more than the original cost of the kit on the photo-etch alone and more for plastic bits (I beams, H beams, small dia. rod, flat stock in various thicknesses) the total spent to date would not cover even a comparably sized fiberglass hull, and then I would have to build all else from scratch. I have been following the scale build threads on the internet, and most modelers may spend from twice the cost of the kit to five or six times on multiple photo-etch and replacement parts, and their models don't even do anything (besides look damn pretty!)
I totally agree with the comments regarding the young generation being infatuated with video games, but they can be dissuaded. During a recent visit. my grandson kept bugging me for my phone, because his mother has games on hers. I do not. However, he also loves trains and cars, so giving him a 3D car to play with was greatly preferred to the video. He is now 4, and I will make sure that he is indoctrinated into something other than the video to play with. There are boats in his future.
The one helpful thing about video gaming is that it does develop eye-hand coordination, which took me a little while to re-learn when going back to flying r/c or driving a high speed boat from a distance.
PeeJay
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Hi guys...Just a quick update.
I managed to get to the Club Lake today for the first time since I finished my Fletcher....Well it floats!...and received admiring glances and comments from the senior members present, so I must be doing something right.....(No photos or video I'm afraid, forgot my camera!...).
The performance was a little dissapointing so I think I made a mistake in going for a "scale" size prop..(20mm). I think I will change it for a larger one and if that doesn't work I'll upgrade the motor.
The results with the Fletcher has made me rethink my options for the Trumpter Bismark, which I'm about to start. I was going with a single motor but now I think I may go via twin 540's or similar or perhaps the Dean's Marine two motor set up. I think I only need a single Esc and 6V lead acid as there was a large scale Type 42 running with this configeration at the pond today and that was all wood construction!..
Alan
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A single scale size prop where 2 were on the original is always going to be slower than the right number unless it can be made to spin much faster. The speed of the boat going forward is partly dependent on the speed of the water being pushed backward by the prop, but also on the volume of the water being moved in a given length of time. A bigger prop might not move the water any faster and therefore not show any speed increase.
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I would have to agree with Harquebus regarding the nostalgia associated with this kit. However, I can't totally agree that it is an 'abomination.' I have been scaling the drawings to do my mods to the Blue Devil, and although there are some very obvious errors, the plans actually do scale out to 1:125, based on the Fletcher Class Plans CD. And, although I have spent more than the original cost of the kit on the photo-etch alone and more for plastic bits (I beams, H beams, small dia. rod, flat stock in various thicknesses) the total spent to date would not cover even a comparably sized fiberglass hull, and then I would have to build all else from scratch. I have been following the scale build threads on the internet, and most modelers may spend from twice the cost of the kit to five or six times on multiple photo-etch and replacement parts, and their models don't even do anything (besides look damn pretty!)
I think I am more expressing the general disdain for the Blue Devil in the hobby media (online sources, magazine reviews, etc.) than I am personally trashing it. It is a product of its time and was designed first and foremost as a motorized model so it had to be durable enough for the young neophyte hobbyist so certain details were designed thicker, with more inherent strength, simplified to the extreme or overlooked entirely. I like being able to see this kit on various internet sites or even down at the local pond and being able to identify it for what it is. It still has great appeal; a 3 foot long Blue Devil Destroyer (even the name sounds sinister) for not a whole lot of money. It's one of the very few models where the size of the box truly indicates the size of the actual model. Very much what-you-see-is-what-you-get. :-))
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Well said, Harquebus. It is a neat old kit no matter what level of detail you wish to achieve.
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Hi Guys and update on the performance issue of the boat.
I had a M2 20mm brass three bladed prop fitted to my Mktronics 400 motor and performance was unimpressive.
I have now fitted a M2 30mm plastic three bladed prop (all of £1-96) and performance is transformed....both speed off the mark and top speed is more than adequate and I can now cruise the lake without having to use full power....a great upgrade....Only loss is the pretty brass prop...so I think some brass looking paint required.....or maybe try my five bladed 30mm brass prop!...now there's a thought!.
Alan
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Not suprised Alan you have more than doubled the area of prop. Out of interest why did you use a single prop instead of twin prop set up and whats the handling like? Also love to see some pics on here of her.
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Very simple really....I am a "cheapskate"!......a single motor/single propshaft, single esc, & single rudder is much cheaper than a twin install, takes up less room. On the water the setup used is invisible . I build/ convert between two and three boats a year so cost is important to me. This is one of the reasons all my boats operate off the same Planet TX...(up to 7 at the moment!).
I used a twin motor setup in my Tamiya Enterprise and that has no advantage as far as I'm concerned, re handling, turning etc. as it was controlled by a single ESC.
If I was building a static or display model then it would be different, but I am only really interested in how the boat performs and looks on the water, not in a display cabinet.
Handling is fine, turning circle about 2 metres which is all I require.
Photo's and video to follow, next time I get to the lake.
Alan
Bismark is progressing but I'm waiting on Dean's Marine to provide one of their motive power kits (Single motor again!)...I understand they are "awaiting delivery" of new stock!.
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lol Alan nothing wrong with being a cheapskate I the same. Although I only tend to build 1 model a year. As i operate on a relatively small pond handling is always a concern. Its interesting to note we both get roughly the same turning radius. But i do like to look at my models on the shelf as well on the water.
Looking forward to see you pics and vidoe on this thread it would be great if others put pic of their lindy on here.
hopefully mine will be on the water at the weekend if the weather holds
Glen
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Hi Guys
I was just browsing the model dockyards website and they selling the blue devil kit. It appears Linberg has gone back into production. Hope we see lots more builds on here.
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Hi Guys
I was just browsing the model dockyards website and they selling the blue devil kit. It appears Linberg has gone back into production. Hope we see lots more builds on here.
There has actually been another one started, and you were a major inspiration, as well as Roger ("snaphappy") on the Ship Model Forum (USS Haggard DD 555).
I started it in the R/C Groups Scale Boats Forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1950472. I will add a thread here when cutting gets really going. I am a little farther along than my last post. I have been marking the hull to cut the sheer line, as the kit hull is just a straight taper from the bow to stern. I will also be adding to the depth of the aft part of the hull to achieve a more accurate transom height.
PeeJay
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Glen,
Fantastic build thread. I hope someone replies after me so I can save this whole build to my files. Great looking BD. I really have to dig mine out and get her finished. Thanks for all your hard work and sharing.
Jim
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How interesting. I bought a random hull off of ebay a while bakc that I am currently converting into the WW destroyer HMS Ready and I wondered which kit it came from and thanks to you I now know. I have chopped and changed the hull considerably but it is currently still recognisable as the Blue Devil hull.
Your assembly of the kit is going well and hope she sails a dream.
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And a good morning Aussie time to all the Fletcher Builders. Well sorry I have been away for a long time. I hope you are still active Glen and Harquebus and Raarty Gunner and all the others. I have missed you all but unfortunately my computer decided to not play any more and I have at long last saved enough pennies for a nice new one.
I have also managed to purchase another Blue Devil and will endeavour to do a Glen build job which I will follow to the letter including the smoke gennies and the Toms Modelworks Etch kit. I saw Glens video on you tube and gave it the appropriate comment. Bloody Beautiful. Anyway will be in touch again. I did manage to finish my Original Fletcher and will see if I can find some pictures of her as she is now. Nowhere in the class of Glens build but I am happy with my first attempt. I have been doing a lot of model aircraft so I believe my modeling skills have improved.
Cheers for now to you all.
Armo
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Just sorting out my camera image size. If this works will post other pictures later.
Armo
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…and over here it's so late, it's early!
Glen, I've read back over the thread, but I cannot for the life of me spot it, but, what anchors did you use on your Fletcher? There's only one supplied in the kit - when in later war some Fletchers had one of their torpedo tube set removed, to be replaced by quad forties and a director, one of the anchors was also removed to save weight - unfortunately Lindberg appear to have based their model on this later fo'c'sle. The Lindberg anchor is truly enormous as well! :-)
I've got one Fletcher 99.9% built in an ultralight top hamper format - everything that could reasonably be hollowed out, has been, all the turrets are fixed in rotation, but not elevation, and the toytown travers gear has been omitted. It runs a pair of 280s from a 4.8v 5000mah subC pack (power and ballast!) from a pair of £5 Chinese ESCs, driving 25mm Raboesch 'destroyer' props, with a single rudder. It handles wind readily without drama.
I let an ex RN friend of mine sail it for a fair while - which may have been a mistake… He's commissioned me to build another to a very similar spec!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/14688832451_03674c7a8b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oo178V)
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Great Photos!
please send orginal / HiRes and I'll post as photo of the month. :-))
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Hi Guys
Not been about much have had a very busy year so far. renovating a house and a model boat project with a local scout troop i'll be posting pics of there efforts in the near future. I did find time to build a flower class corvette almost finished
Robert I think they a pair of graupner plastic anchors I picked up in my local model shop. a lovely looking model btw hope your mate likes his
nice to see you armo looks like nice model have fun with the next.
Glen
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Robert I think they a pair of graupner plastic anchors I picked up in my local model shop. a lovely looking model btw hope your mate likes his
Glen, thanks and thanks. I've never built anything for anyone else before, so I am currently in a state of mild apprehension :-)
-Rob
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you'll be fine. you got my thread to help if you need it and i'm always happy to answer questions. just take your time and have fun
glen
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I love these old models - I did one a couple of years ago (£20 off ebay) - I didn't bother with over-detailing it as they all look the same in the middle of the lake. Also, people say they are not too stable so adding weight up high on the model didn't seem sensible.
I did the same as mentioned above, 2x 280 motors, 2mm shafts & 25mm props, 2x cheapo Chinese ESC and a 7.2v racing pack in the bottom for ballast & stability.
I put a pair of brass rudders on because the little plastic ones in the kit looked very fragile.
I sailed great - the only issue is the lack of free-board at the stern which is worse in a tight turn when the boat is heeled over. I put in extra bulkheads all down the length of the hull in case it took on water to make sure it couldn't slosh around and capsize it.
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I sailed great - the only issue is the lack of free-board at the stern which is worse in a tight turn when the boat is heeled over. I put in extra bulkheads all down the length of the hull in case it took on water to make sure it couldn't slosh around and capsize it.
The Fletchers were renowned 'wet' ships, so any water sloshing on the decks is entirely prototypical, especially in a swell and a turn.
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Great Photos!
please send orginal / HiRes and I'll post as photo of the month. :-))
To martin@ (the name of this site) ?
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Hello good to see some reaction to the Fletcher and good to see that you Glen are still modeling. I don't know if this will work but this is the work going on at the moment in my shipyard in Queensland.
You can see the USS Mcgowan and the Sovremenny being reworked. Also a new Blue Devil being trial fitted before anything permanent is done to this Model.
Cheers for now
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Well good morning Aust time to you all. Glen if you read this, where did you get the tubing to fit around the turret supports. I think it is 8mm in diameter would I be correct? or am I slightly out. My eyes are not as good as they were. I was thinking of trying Cornwall Hobbies as I have dealt with them before. I also want to get 2 of the 280 motors you used in your build.
Can you help out purchase location of those>
Thanks mate and getting organised for the new build slowly. Am ordering everything before I start to make sure all is at hand to complete a good model.
Cheers for now - Armo
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Hi Armo
.
sorry for the delay been away. I got the tubing from ebay can't remember what size they are but its the internal diameter that you need. Good luck getting the motors I tried to get some more recently couldn't get they anywhere.
good luck with your model
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Goods Morning Glen,
Great to hear from you once again. No worries I will find the tubing and I was in luck as I did find in my Shed two motors of the size that fitted perfectly into the mount supplied with the Lindberg Kit.
So I am a happy chappy. I have not done much to the ship as yet as I am still waiting for paint to come from a friend of mine in California so, she sits in her box in pieces waiting patiently to be assembled.
I have trial fitted all of her major parts that make her mobile and all seems to be in order.
Thank you for your reply and that your and your family are all well and in great health and spirits.
Cheers for now - Armo
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Here's a screen-grab from a video of my USS Melvin - the camera was mounted on the gun of a Matchbox Flower Class.
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She looks really terrific, Congrats Plastic and hope she gives you many hours of enjoyment like my USS McGowan Has. They are a good size and look great on the water where they belong. An oldie but a goldie as far as kits go.
:-))
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I seemed to have missed the last few replies on this thread!
Regarding 280 motors, make sure you get the ones with proper carbon brushes. On a 5 cell 6V sub C battery pack, running three blade 25mm props, the ship will plane - I kid you not!
Scrap the kit rudders - only the last four (5?) Fletchers ran twin rudders, and making your own single rudder out of brass is easy - trust me!
So I built my commissioned Fletcher as USS DD795 Preston and improved upon my Fletcher in numerous areas - 5port hole bridge, wiper boxes above bridge windows, ALL(27!) gun barrels drilled and opened up, cinder guards fitted to the top of the stacks, Direction Finding antenna fitted between X and Y turret, additional director fitted between X and Y turret, and fitted late type sonar dome on base of hull ahead of A turret - and many others.
Guess which dimwit forgot to take pics before handover? :-X
The new owner is V happy so that's all that matters really.
I'll see if I can persuade him to bring it out for a photo op on Saturday :-)
-Rob
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T'is great to see the hull built as intended. You can see what evil things I am doing to the hull I got off of Ebay, converting her to HMS Ready. I hope the raised freeboard will make her drier. The irregular wall thickness is causing lots of fun.
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Look forward to seeing HMS Ready and also your build Plastic. The two with information will look great.
%%
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(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/15113904358_66daa6f572_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/p2yHcU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/p2yHcU) by rajd999 (https://www.flickr.com/people/91036667@N00/), on Flickr
USS Preston astern USS Melvin.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/15297360201_7dd021be4f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/piLYeF)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/piLYeF) by rajd999 (https://www.flickr.com/people/91036667@N00/), on Flickr
USS Preston on radar picket.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/15277449596_fb3691186d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ph1Vvo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ph1Vvo) by rajd999 (https://www.flickr.com/people/91036667@N00/), on Flickr
Flank speed to port XO!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3909/15297362151_dd779617ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/piLYPi)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/piLYPi) by rajd999 (https://www.flickr.com/people/91036667@N00/), on Flickr
Continue flank speed on course XO!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/15300503655_71818c01ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pj45Fa)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/pj45Fa) by rajd999 (https://www.flickr.com/people/91036667@N00/), on Flickr
On Patrol - USS Preston astern of USS Melvin.
Murky old day, but a few pics of my commission in action earlier.
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Well built models with lots of extra authentic detail, and very nice photos - well done Rob!
Brian
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Well built models with lots of extra authentic detail, and very nice photos - well done Rob!
Brian
Thanks Brian!
A lot of the detail upgrades are very subtle, some not so, and one invisible whilst it's on the water - USS Preston has a late war sonar dome fitted on the base of the hull.
Whilst the kit is very much still Lindberg, it's propulsion and steering owes very little to it's Lindberg heritage, and all the tweaks have made it more recognisable as a Fletcher - I still can't believe I drilled and counter bored the 20mm cannon gun barrels!
The current owner specified a ship that was to be sailed on a regular basis - the deck is fixed and watertight, with high combings around the hatch openings under the removable deck houses and bridge. The motive power is a 3300mah subC battery driving two 280 motors through a new Hobbywing QuicRun waterproof 1625 brushed ESC (which is selectable for NiMh or LiPo, and Forward/Reverse - Forward/Brake/Reverse and Forward only). The shafts and tubes are set of Steve Tranter's precision ground M2 micros driving a set of 25mm Raboesch props - The radio gear is a FlySky TH 9x with Hobbyking (FlySky OEM 6ch receiver) running ER9x software - which allows my former RN friend to sail it with quite some precision - plus the range on this setup is quite incredible, especially as the receivers are about five quid a go depending on exchange rates.
-Rob
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Hi Plastic you have a PM.
Roy
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Excellent pictures and information on the build. Many thanks, I am redoing my Nimitz at the moment and once she is completed I will dress up my Fletcher the USS McGowan a bit more and start on the other Lindberg Fletcher I managed to acquire. I will have a look as I did for McGowan for a suitable Fletcher to copy in the colours shown when researching.
Great Stuff.
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I do like seeing several of the same class on the water as it does demonstrate that many vessels were not one-offs but were part of classes that may be slightly different but no less capable.
Lovely work Rob!
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I went along to the St Albans model show on Saturday - There was a modified USS Melvin model on show that had to be seen to be believed. It was amazing - I know these models quite well and almost every piece on show had been completely re-worked. It had a full phot-etch kit as well. Best one I've ever seen!
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Was the etch an after market product or did the modeller design his own? It is costly to do but can be worth every penny compared with hours of fettling sheet metal.
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Hi.
aftermarket
Frank
http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_39&products_id=166&osCsid=132b636c2593a473c80f57c8558ebba9 (http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_39&products_id=166&osCsid=132b636c2593a473c80f57c8558ebba9)
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I do like seeing several of the same class on the water as it does demonstrate that many vessels were not one-offs but were part of classes that may be slightly different but no less capable.
Lovely work Rob!
Thanks!
They're all slightly different (the Fletchers) but were the effective protective mainstay of the US fleet in WWII.
The pair I've built so far have been purely for use on the water and almost week in week out sailing.
Moving on, Tom's Model Works appears to be under new ownership - my Fletcher etch arrived in less than a week from US -> UK
I haven't used it yet…
-Rob
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Hello fellow Shipmates, Yes I am keeping my Fletcher USS McGowan as the standard version but will be ordering the Etch Kit for my new build. I look forward to trying my hand at the Etch work not having tried it before. I will make sure I practice. I have a little Spruance class warship that I am building at the moment and have fitted her out for R/C work in say a swimming pool or a small pond. I have purchased 3 wire railings in the Etch and will try that first. I did learn that it is better to make small posts for the railings to be glued to when shaped too. So I was thinking of cutting up some sewing pins and inserting them into the deck, set the railings with superglue on those the give them the coat of paint. I will see how that works out. Small heavy gauge wire for posts is another option too I suppose. Anyway still painting the beastie so will be a while and making up a model in 1/48 of an Aussie Mirage for my Aussie Aircraft display's now started.
Cheers to all for now - Armo :-))
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New member to the forum, here!
With regard to 1/125 figures for the Blue Devil, has anyone located a reliable source for such detail pieces?
I am not quite ready for them as yet, but any preliminary info would be most appreciated!
Many thanks to all, in advance!
crazygary
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And a great big warm welcome to CG (Crazy Gary). girls and guys this new member is a source of inspiration for me and his builds of ships are second to none. Welcome aboard and may you partake in some of your great modelling techniques that you have shown and shared with me.
Now you can start posting some pictures of Ingersoll to a forum where they will be much appreciated.
Cheers - Armo. :-))
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Welcome Gary, so what is Ingersoll? Pop it in a new topic to give it space to flourish
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New member to the forum, here!
With regard to 1/125 figures for the Blue Devil, has anyone located a reliable source for such detail pieces?
I am not quite ready for them as yet, but any preliminary info would be most appreciated!
Many thanks to all, in advance!
crazygary
You could try 'N' gauge model rail figures. From memory the Blue Devil was 1:125, I've just read N gauge is 1:148.
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Gidday Ingersoll is a US Fletcher Destroyer and Gary is modelling the ship as she was in the Vietnam era when he was there. He will no doubt let us all know about her but he is doing a terrific job on her so far she will be very pleasing to the eye as he is or has had to make so many modifications to enable him to model the ship of that period after all of her refits.
cheers Armo.
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Giiday, All! I thank yah for the kind words, Brother Armo!! I'm just a crazy old Yank that enjoys modeling, even though being a bit of a detail "nut"! Hah! Careful, me brother, or I may become a "legend in my own mind"!! Hahaha!!
USS Ingersoll, DD-652, is a US Navy Fletcher Class Destroyer. I chose her to model my Lindberg Blue Devil after, as she was a fellow Vietnam veteran at around the same time as I was in country. Just seemed a bit appropriate. She underwent numerous post-war refits in the mid-1950s' which included the removal of her #3 5"-38 gun, and replaced with a 3"-50-cal anti aircraft gun, as well as a number of additional upgrades. I will, at some point, begin a build thread on her once there are sections of her actually worth seeing. Hah! Pretty boring at this point, she is!
Thanks to you, Pondweed, for the tip regarding figures for the 1/125 ships. "N-scale", I believe is 1:160 which would work out pretty well in physical size, so I shall give that a good look. There is a company called "PeopleScale" who produce figures "by height", and their 3/32" scale figures measure about 9/16" in height, which would be the closest to being correct as I have found. Another possible source of figures there.
Happy modeling and a very good day to all!!
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I've just picked up another of these great models from ebay for no money - it's a project where someone has tried to convert it into a waterline model - looks like they did it with an AXE! :o
Luckily, they abandoned the vandalism before it became bin-fodder so I have to tidy up the butchered edges and recreate the bottom of the hull.
Whilst I'm there, I'll add an extra few mm of freeboard to make it easier to get the mass lower to increase stability.
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An excellent find there, plastic!!
Good on yer!!
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Hull Challenge!
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JAYsus!! Quite the bloody hack job there, eh!!
My thoughts and prayers to yah, me brother!! Hah!!
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:o :o :o :o :o <:( <:( I think Sweeny todd had a go at that. But seriously, the hull is a good old 2mm thick in most places and so you cannot be subtle with it. Sawing or chain drilling is the only real answer to cutting it, or in the previous owners case, a spoke shave :D . I wish you the best of luc restoring her as the hull is very versatile. I could see any number of WW2 destroyers being built on that as a basis plus a few WW1 classes also.
Gary, the only boring bit is the empty bench from after you have finished your project and have not stared the new one yet:O)
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Gary,
Whilst your location is USA, O0 where are you from originally?????
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Gidday, "Gunner"!
I am originally from San Francisco, l-o-n-g before the LGBT set began to take over the city!! Hah!!
The neighborhood in which I was born and grew up in, is their "epicenter", if you will.
I am currently living in the foothills of Clovis, CA, about 35 miles (22km?) northeast of the city of Fresno, California.
Roughly a 4-hour drive from the "Big City"! Beautiful up here in the hills. If not for the terrible drought we have been enduring for the past 4 years, t'would be quite lush and green! Still plenty of beautiful oak and ponderosa pine trees to marvel at!
The creek that my wife and I have running through our property has not seen water in many a year!! Hah!! No tadpoles and very few frogs remaining! Still a nice place for we retired folks to live!
I've a great mate whom I met through the modeling community who lives in Injune, Queensland!! Goes by the name of "Armo"!! Just like a true blood brother to me, he is!! Wonderful bloke!!
Where exactly are you in OZ?? I have visited Sydney, while on R&R from Vietnam, and absolutely love yah country!! Wonderful people!!
Ozzie, Ozzie, Ozzie! OY, OY, OY!!!
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Gary,
Was intrigued by your style of speech which is not typical Yank. A bit laid back. :-)) :-))
Thought you may have brushed shoulders with Aussies and it has rubbed off on you.
I am in Queensland as is Armo who is out west, Brisbane being the capital city, So I am East of Armo on the coast.
In a past life had occasion to travel out west and throughout the state including Injune.
Brisbane is a bit more sedate than Sydney.
Have one of those Blue Devils and will be following your build, mine is in the "to do" basket.
Think we now have Aussie Mayhemmers from all of the States, Don't know about the Northern Territory (NT)
Welcome aboard O0 O0 :-)) :-))
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Hey Gary......I am just down the road a piece ...just south of Sydney.......which as you also know is just a bit further down the road a bit from Brisbane in Queensland O0
I am pretty sure your OZ mate Armo...is a member of a Scale Warship Modelling Association group based in Brisbane .....
Going from a 5"-38 - cal gun, and replaced with a 3"-50-cal anti aircraft gun is a radical change........I have worked on larger FMC 5"-54 cal mounts as installed on our HMA DDG's which were of course built in the USA.........
Anyway .....as RAAArtyGunner says...welcome onboard :-)) .... Derek
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Derek,
Correct me if I am wrong, the Anti Aircraft Gun would have a shorter barrel, by 40 inches but higher Muzzle Velocity, Y/N
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RAAArtyGunner.....well yes & no..... ;)
3" x 50 calibre = 150" effective barrel length
5" x 38 calibre = 190" effective barrel length
So yes the 3" mount [by design] would be able to punch out more rounds per minute....however the actual MV is another calculation :o ...which is governed by the shell casing charge & type of propellant <*<
Derek
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I will agree as am not a Naval person, :o :o however and there is always a however, O0 O0 increased barrel length aids Muzzle velocity, being simplistic pistol V rifle. %) %)
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A gidday to all!
Yeah, "Gunner"! I have, indeed, become quite fond of the Aussie speech, especially from the ladies!! Hah!!
Something endearing about it, although I have been told that we Yanks are the ones with the "accent", eh!!?? Hahaha!!
Ever since R&R in Sydney, back in 1969, I swore I would return to Australia once again, but at 68, Such a trip may well
not happen!!?? However,one never knows, eh!! Would very much like to see the Northern Territory!
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Hi All
I've been away for while the wife and life had other ideas for my spare time. I'm pleased to see this topic I started is still going strong. I love seeing the pictures of other members builds.
Gary the figures for my model were borrowed on a permanent basis from a revell U boat kit boat the cut out one and converted to resemble US Navy. I believe monogram sea view model is same scale with figures. 1/128 is my preferred scale and I have yet to find any figures to suit you can buy of the shelf
Happy modelling i'll be back soon with a new project very soon
Glen
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Looking forward to see what that might be!
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Giiday Glen and I look forward to seeing your new Project also.
ANY HINTS?
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just sent to the US a 1/128 Fletcher USS Johnston . Also a Butler class DE in this scale. I have many fittings in this scale which are not shown on my site but are available until they are gone. Fleetscale sell my hulls
john@johnrhaynes.com
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it will probably be a carrier which on yet I don't know what this space
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A Carrier eh okay that will be great. Something to match my Nimitz and Allan's Enterprise hopefully.
Good luck with the build.
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I think they offer the best of both internal detail modelling and large warship building, so I wish you well on your next build:O)
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Hello Fellow Shipmates,
Yes still here in Injune Queensland Australia building my models albeit of model aircraft at this time. I have however been building another Fletcher and have nearly finished her along with a newly installed Smoke Unit which was purchased from Down Under and seems to work very well. I did a Glen D and wired the smoke to the throttle control so that the more throttle the more smoke. The pictures of my USS Kidd are a tester on the Forum to make sure I have the correct setting on my camera to post again.
She still has the Port towards the Stern Deck Railings to be installed, Her underneath the Hull filled in and smoothed and then her final coat of paints and touch ups. She will then be ready for her first sail down at the local Billabong. We have had some rain so she is full and waiting for my to arrive along with the Fletcher. A Sovremenny Nr 789 will also be given her maiden voyage.
I still have the Lanzhou Chinese Frigate and still have to add her deck railings to finish her off also. Just me being a Lazy fellow.
Ok let us try these pictures and will post again if working when the USS Kidd is completed.
She is seen here in her 1945 Cammouflage. Some of you might remember McGowan another Fletcher I did. I am pleased to say that she has gone to a very good new owner who likes her immensely.
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Well, they worked pretty well. I can see the detail quite well and look forwrd to seeing the rest of your fleet.
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...With regard to 1/125 figures for the Blue Devil, has anyone located a reliable source for such detail pieces?
I am not quite ready for them as yet, but any preliminary info would be most appreciated!
Many thanks to all, in advance!
CrazyGary already knows about this, but there are now some very excellent 1:125 USN WWII figures very well-suited for the Lindberg Blue Devil and other ships in the scale (Lindberg Minesweeper, Lindberg LCT, Revell Calypso {if you desired to modify it back into a YMS minesweeper}, etc.).
They're 3D printed from Shapeways.com--two sets, one in casual "dungarees" with "Dixie Cup" sailor hats and the other with added combat gear of M1 helmets and life jackets. They had already existed in 1/144 and other scales but yours truly was instrumental in getting these re-sized to 1/125 as all it takes is a request sent to the designer. I've already received my 'Combat' set and they are very nice and crisply printed; facial expressions and clothing texture are well represented as well as separate heels on their shoes. I can even see their tiny thumbs separate from the other fingers.
:o
Glad to see that more than a few are in gunner and passing-ammunition-clip poses....
http://www.shapeways.com/product/X469BGRVA/1-125-us-navy-dungaree-set-1?li=marketplace&optionId=57295305 (http://www.shapeways.com/product/X469BGRVA/1-125-us-navy-dungaree-set-1?li=marketplace&optionId=57295305)
http://www.shapeways.com/product/K8TPMHZYA/1-125-us-navy-sailors-combat-set-2?li=search-results-1&optionId=57295315 (http://www.shapeways.com/product/K8TPMHZYA/1-125-us-navy-sailors-combat-set-2?li=search-results-1&optionId=57295315)
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Sounds good, Harq!! Thanks for the "heads up"!
I've ordered a few items from Shapeways, and everything I have from them is first rate!!
Going to their website now to check "em out!!
Have a good one!
Gary
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I posted this same info on Lindberg Fletcher, the Yahoo group. I thought you were tracking on this. {-)
Incidentally, I ordered them in Frosted Ultra Detail, the cheapest option. Saw no need for the Frosted Extreme. Also, a welcome mistake on their part, I ordered 30 and got an extra 30; 60 total figures!
:-))
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Thinking about making my Lindberg Melvin a single rudder... Does anybody know and can post the actual rudder dimensions?
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Hello Andy R,
My Fletcher the USS Kidd is a Single rudder as used in real life by the Kidd.
She sails very well and I just guessed the dimensions really so this is what I have which works well
4 cm in Length and 3 cm starting at the top of the rudder and tapering into 2cm for the bottom of the rudder.
Cheers
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Hello Armo 61,
Thanks for your quick reply.
I will make a rudder from brass to your dimensions and try it.
I also have decided to remove the plastic railing from above the bridge like you did on your Kidd. I'm guessing that the Lindberg designer in the 60's may have tried to make the railing appear as canvas over pipe railings, but the way you did yours looks much better. It appears that you did not try to mimic the circular tub underneath the director. I probably will do the same as I have been unable to find those dimensions.
Regards,
Andy
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Hi guys I have enclosed a picture of the rudder fitted on my 1/96 scale model. Also enclosed second picture with Gambier Bay both models are 1/96 scale. The Fletcher kit is from Deans Marine and is about 45 in in length powered by 2 6 volt motors driving 1.5 in props hope you enjoy.
Stan
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last picture.
Stan
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Ooh, I like that flat top Stan:O)
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On the first try I cut the brass to the wrong angle. On the second try the brass rudder seemed to be much too heavy. The third try was made from laminating layers of styrene sheet, milling the outside dimensions, and then sanding. The shaft is a brass tube 3/16-in. OD, with a 1/4-in. square solid brass core sticking up 3/8-in. to allow connection to an as-yet unmade lever.
But I can't figure out yet how to post the photo.
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I've read a lot about posting photos on this site so here's another try:
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They are looking good Andy.......just a thought, when you are doing the final positioning of the prop shafts [within the prop tubes] it's best to have the slim profile locknuts installed
So just with the longitudinal alignment free & placing no running or binding stresses........here is an image from the same thread below....
As double indemnity, some also use a light smear of low strength Loctite threadlok ........... Derek
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Hi seeing the Melvin brings back memories from many moons ago. I bought mine from a model shop in York never built it moved straight on to the Deans Marine kit. I have enclosed a picture from last Sunday at our home water. The disruptive pattern worked very well with the model sailing in foggy conditions
Stan
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Derek,
Thanks for the advice about the locknuts on the shaft. I still am wrestling with the idea of installing the 45-degree braces at the shaft supports as shown on yours. Others in the thread have warned about the potential obsession with fixing the Lindberg kit and I certainly have started down that road. Glen Davis wrote encouragement regarding keeping the twin rudder and I'd be a lot farther along if I had followed his advice.
Stan,
Your Dean's Marine destroyer is gorgeous. If I had only known... The Melvin is what I knew about having assembled one (quite badly) in 1965. Glen Davis' description of his build (especially the smoke!) had been my motivation.
Andy
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HI Andy R thank you for your comments on my model. Do we have any pictures of your project? P/M also sent.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Stan,
No more photos just yet. I'll post a few to keep this thread started by Glen Davis alive.
I'm working on cleaning up the deck while waiting on couplings from Cornwall Model Boats across the pond. I'm doing many of the revisions that Glen Davis did; modifying the approach to a few and a few more that he didn't do. My intent was just to add R/C and the Toms Modelworks filigree, but seeing other Fletchers done like the pictures you posted of your Fletcher class with the carrier Gambier Bay make me want to do a better job.
One item recently done was to raise the pedestal of the director. Somebody mentioned that it sits too low to rotate to full broadside, and sure enough, after check fitting that is true. I looked at lots of photos of Fletchers, and originally decided to remove the railings to solve that problem, but when at sea the canvas covers made them all look like the railing is solid. So I've left it alone and raised the pedestal for the director. If I remember to take a picture I'll post it next week.
Andy
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HI Andy this may be of some help if building the Melvin.
Stan.
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Hi guys,
New to this forum, just purchased a Lindberg Blue devil, and collecting the running gear for conversion to rc. Going to be using two motors, can you help with the length of the 2mm prop shafts I will need. Many thanks.
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Andy R, don't overthink the running gear. Only the last four ships in the class had twin rudders (experimental for the ensuing Gearing class I'm told) A single rudder is easier to setup for RC, and in my experience on the water, allows the ship to handle very well indeed!
Motor to 2mm shaft couplings. I've been using some fine bore model diesel fuel tube. It just works :-)
Motors? Mabuchi 280 x 2 bolted to the kit's motor plate mount. Performance is MORE than adequate!
Battery 4 cell sub C 5000mah (4.8v nominal rating) I have no honest idea how long the runtime is because it lasts that long.
One last tip. DO NOT MAKE THE DECK REMOVABLE! Fix and seal the deck to the hull and make the deck houses and superstructures demountable.
Doing this has allowed me to sail my Fletcher in quite extreme weather, whilst only shipping half a teaspoonful of water.
Those are my recommendations based on experience of sailing a Lindberg Fletcher.
In fact I got commissioned to build another 'sailer' on the basis of my initial build(!)
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Great advice received so far. Many thanks stan for the phone call, learnt a lot in 5 mins
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Here's mine during construction - 2 rudders, split deck - front half fixed - motors siliconed to the floor for lower C of G
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Last night I finished the tiller. Now it's off to the RC shop to spend the big bucks ($).
Plastic, That's a nice build. I see you left off the gun boots, which I have also done.
Graham, Thanks for the advice.
Andy
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Stan,
I missed your post...not logged in the attachments don't show. That's an interesting bit of info about the USS Melvin. From what book was that?
Robert,
For some reason I thanked Graham for your contributions. The running gear is almost the same as what Glen Davis did. I also glued in some 0.080-in styrene angle brackets to stiffen the kit's motor plate.
I'm also going to attach the hull like Glen Davis did. I have marked and glued a shelf angle inside the hull made from 0.080-in. square styrene to support the deck. Perhaps that will aid fit-up and reduce the amount of filler needed to improve the structural and watertight integrity. I have made a bulkhead forward of the forward turret rotating lever to have some positive buoyancy in case of swamping. I thought that I would "improve" upon what Glen did regarding keeping water out of the hull by gluing the walls to the floor instead of the second deck and omitting the interior coaming. So I did that with the aft deckhouse, but trial fitting revealed that the deck really needs the stiffness of the walls. So the aft deck has stiffener plates glued to the underside of the second deck (adding weight up high!) and the forward and main cabins are attached to the second decks and there's a coaming like Glen's glued to the main deck openings.
Glen was correct in indicating that he may have rekindled an interest in the Lindberg Fletcher. My kit has a part date-stamped 1-15-15, and the box is date-stamped 1-23-2015, so they did a recent production run. I suspect that the owners of the Lindberg line assume that old men like me are building the kit, and are familiar with its construction, because the instructions are very brief. For example, there are parts but no instructions related to the turret rotation mechanism (which I will modify similar to Glen's modification) and parts but no instructions related to the cam mechanism (which I won't use anyway.) There's even a note to look on the manufacturer's website for tips on converting to RC. But the website does not even mention this kit. So I very much appreciate all the contributions so far.
Andy
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there are parts but no instructions related to the turret rotation mechanism (which I will modify similar to Glen's modification) and parts but no instructions related to the cam mechanism (which I won't use anyway.)
I have noticed on other Lindberg kits that many of them have odd parts on sprues left over from previous issues with no mention in the instructions. These are mostly internal items to locate prop shafts and tiller arms. This is probably just a more extreme example.
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Adventures in radio control ... without yet opening the transmitter/receiver box.
Two trips to the local radio control shop ... with very poor help ... I finally have a battery, battery charger, and electronic speed control (ESC) all with compatible "EC3" connectors. The ESC motor output uses "Tamiya 3.5mm plugs", so a set of those had to be also obtained and soldered to the motor leads. Before soldering I checked the pair of 280 motors with a DC transformer to confirm counter rotation and that the mounting of the props was correct. A pair of female pigtails was also soldered to allow connection to the smoke units already purchased.
The ESC is programmable with three functions. Of course they are intended for planes and helicopters and not boats. So which to select is a conundrum. Certainly not "Forward/Brake", but not sure between "Forward/Brake/Reverse", and "Forward/Reverse (Crawler Mode)".
I searched in the "Black Arts" and R/C" forums in Model Boat Mayhem and didn't find an obvious answer. Any advice will be appreciated.
Andy
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Go for crawler mode - that one should have a direct transition from forward to reverse, just doing what you think the stick is telling it to do.
For connectors, you would probably have found lots of them in the local car accessory shop.
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Just getting some hardware together for my USS Melvin build. Its crossed my mind to install a sound system. Do you think a basic destroyer 'whoop whoop' would work. On the other hand, maybe something more complex. Any ideas welcome, where to get something at a reasonable cost would be good.
Thanks Graham
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Just getting some hardware together for my USS Melvin build. Its crossed my mind to install a sound system. Do you think a basic destroyer 'whoop whoop' would work. On the other hand, maybe something more complex. Any ideas welcome, where to get something at a reasonable cost would be good.
Thanks Graham
Although this is a big plastic kit, it still isn't huge. A destroyer whoop would be great, but be careful that it can carry the extra weight without compromising stability while at the same time having the speaker where you can hear it at a reasonable distance. A speaker that can be heard at a reasonable distance tends to be a relatively heavy item. Mounting it low could reduce the volume, mounting it high could affect stability.
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If you put a traditional speaker in to a boat, they are very inefficient - less that 10% at best. The tiny little pcb-mounted mobile-phone style speakers may work well for you in this application - they weigh nothing, they are tiny and, as the whoop, whoop has no bass content, you don't need a large speaker. These speakers are very efficient and when coupled to a class D amplifier, take almost no power to drive quite loudly.
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Thanks for your advice. Stan your telephone call much appreciated. More research required. I am very conscious about stability, I don't want it under water, full of electronic gizmo's!!!!!!!!.
Graham
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HI all you Lindberg model builders I have just found some information I received from the the U S Embassy many years ago long before the internet. The document show the final journey of USS Melvin DD680.
Stan
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About a year ago I wrote about the potential obsession with fixing the Lindberg kit and I admitted starting down that road. It's not as bad as it could be because it's my rainy-day project and it hardly rains in Southern California. But I have made a bat-wing 40mm director platform for the aft stack, made a lot of modifications to the bridge (with more to come), moved the cranes to positions more appropriate to the Melvin, and lengthened the guns to be 38 caliber. Since this work commenced there have come on the market some extraordinarily expensive computer-printed detail parts (Shapeways) and I have been tempted by the anchors. I wonder how durable these are, considering that this is a R-C model and not a museum piece. If any Mayhemers have experience with these or similar parts, please offer advice?
Thanks.
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So - just building yet another of these great kits - my third one.
This was a Christmas present that I've thrown this together since the new year.
Motors are 280 brushed with twin ESC and 6v racing pack with 2mm shafts with plastic props - this time I'm trying tank steering with no rudder servo.
The Tom's Modelworks photo-etch railings arrived this afternoon so I'll get busy with the superglue over the next few days.
Trying a different waterline to drop the bow lower in the water.
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A rare rain in Southern California allowed time to work on the Melvin.
This is my approach to the servo and linkage to the rudder. It has been checked for clearance under the deck, and operates well with the radio transmitter.
The preview didn't show the photo so this will be interesting.
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Hey, it worked!
Here's the ESC and receiver mounting.
The receiver is set in a plastic box to allow the antenna to rise up through the mast.
The ESC is screwed to circular styrene pedestals that were glued to the hull.
There is a bulkhead made from styrene sheet that lines up with the forward edge of the central deckhouse.
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The R/C guts of Melvin have all checked out and everything runs well, so I have glued the deck to the hull and am filling all of the gaps and holes. I modified the bulwark, cutting room, and 20mm gun splinter shield just like Glen Davis did and it really improves the appearance of the model.
I hope that it rains again; Please, oh please, oh please! and then I will be stuck inside and can do some more work on Melvin. This seems to be a build that may never be complete. I envy "Plastic" that he can build in so short of time as he described a few posts ago. But then again I built my first Melvin in one day (1964).
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Hey Gang, new here. Any way to see all of GlenDavis1971 photos without the annoying"photobucket" banner ? About to start my Blue Devil in a week or two and this thread is FANTASTIC !!!!!
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Good luck with you build. Are you going to apply a total blue colour scheme to your model? I had this kit many many years ago but never got round to building it. I decided to build the 1/96 scale Deans Marine Fletcher.
Stan.
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I just got one of the reissue BD kits as a Christmas gift from my wife after we watched Greyhound a few weeks ago. I wonder if this movie will rekindle interest in Fletcher class modeling? While mine will not even come close to rivaling some of the great models in this long running thread. I did find many great tips, where to get proper screws, deck sealing and combing to make her seaworthy. Mine will carry the fictional name USS Keeling from the movie, as well as that destroyers number and paint scheme. I might get this one done before I get back to my Dumas Army Tug kit. AD
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HI WELL i built two of these as the first one i put on the roof of my car to unlock the door no infared in those days an a big gust of wind blew the model off my car an it smashed to bits
build another an it sailed great
chris
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I relocated the aft torpedo crane based upon photos in books and on the world-wide-wait. I also fabricated a shelter for the torpedomen out of scrap.
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I also relocated the forward crane and added galley vents. The vents are made from scrap sprue bits inserted in plastic tube.
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I resized the bridge deck too. I started with the 5 portholes in the front as suggested a very l o n g time ago, then cut the mast bracing to a shape more appropriate to the original. Then I noticed the curve in the sides, so made that modification too. The director is also having some modifications but not nearly as nice as has been done by others. I even added rods to the signal flag basins.
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I mentioned in an earlier post the bat-wing shape of the aft stack platform.
This is a photo of that with the HF radio pipe also attached below.
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The 40mm mount atop the aft deckhouse in the kit is like the surviving USS Kidd, which like Melvin was built at Federal Shipyard. But I saw an overhead photo of Melvin's twin, the USS McNair (DD679) so made the 40mm mount like the McNair, and as illustrated in this attached photo. The 40mm director on Melvin was just a raised platform with handrails, but like so many other parts on this model , I kept with the theme of "toy-like" rather than truly scale fabrication.
And yes, it is raining here in So. California - a rare opportunity to be cooped up inside and work on Melvin.