Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Seaport Tugs => Topic started by: AlanT on July 03, 2012, 07:21:15 pm
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I managed to obtain a faulty "Southport" tug from Ebay so thought I would have a go at making a freelance tug to use as a standby model when i take one of my other boats to the pond.
I stripped it down and thought I would keep the motor, propshaft, coupling and kort steering as they all seemed to work well. I didn't like the superstructure very much so I only kept the main baseunit, but modified it's shape and filled in all the holes and windows, (to be replaced by portholes).
I modified the kort steering stalk and fitted an old servo I had lying around. The boat needs weight to get it down to a decent level so I fittted a 6volt Lead acid battery, (more than adequate for this motor.) . I then fitted a 15amp Mktronics ESC and a Planet 2.4 Receiver. I also fitted a 5amp inline fuse and holder, not sure if this is big enough but easily changed if necessary.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03060.jpg).
I sprayed the hull section, above the waterline and the deck surround satin black, and enlarged the access points in the deck. This item was then sprayed anti-foul red.
The photo's below show the above deck level work undertaken so far :-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03059.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03058.jpg)
All is built from Plasticard, aprt from the Homebase Waste pipe funnel, complete with O rings...and MMB doors and cowls.
This is where I currently am with the build :-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03057.jpg)
Still have lots more to do such as deciding which colour to paint the superstructure, waterlining, deck fittings, fenders, portholes mast fittings the list goes on and on.
More to follow.
Alan
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Excellent job! :-))
Did you remove the water ballast tank?
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Hi Martin..
Yes I cut out the old ballast tank and sealed the inlet holes with two part clear epoxy.
Alan
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It's quite hard plastic, how did you cut it out without going through the hull?
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Hi Martin
I used my trusty Dremel with a cutting disc tool and then mini sander tool.
Exactly the same way I enlarged the access points on the deck section.
Regards
Alan
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A little more work on the Tug today :-
White pinstripping added to waterline and deck level. This really is great stuff, very easy to apply. I got it from Barry's Model Lettering.
I also received my fender set from MMB, again top quality, so fitted bow mounting points to attach the chain.
At the stern I ftted a rear support bar, (I'm sure there is a "proper" name for these things).....and also a stern section of decking, varnished and sealed.
Holes were drilled to accept the brass portholes, wonderful engineering from Croppers Models.
More work soon, must get some paint!.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03061.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03062.jpg)
Alan
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Loving it! :-))
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I've now just about finished the boat, just need to complete the final stand once the nameplate arrives from Brunel Engraving....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03071.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/BEEJAY7/DSC03069.jpg)
I really enjoyed making converting the Seaport into "Rosie" as it was totally freelance I just made it up as I went along, tried something if I didn't like it tried something else, although i think it does look a little like a thames TID.
The only parts of the original superstructure I reused were the main cabin, (but modified to include rear door, Flush front panel, filled in windows and removal of all plastic handrails ), ladder (ciut in half to fit cabinrear wall), lifebelts, searchlight and the lower half of the bridge, although it was cut off at glass level and shortened. The top half of the bridge/roof is scratchbuilt from plasticard and the original glazing has been cut up to fit the new windows and fixed with canopy glue.
The rear structure is scratchbuilt from plasticard and features portholes from Cropper's models.
The mast is made from plastic tube with a carved balsa top. straining wires are brass and lamp holders are cut down spade electrical connectors.
A rear straining bar from plastic tube added and rear deck made up from stained balsa.
Stack is a Homebase waste pipe with O rings and scratchbuilt top section., handrails from Robbe and cowls, hatches, doors, fenders and nav lights from MMB, lettering and mast lights from Nautical Marine.
I've also fitted a pair of oild drums a a front whinch from Battlecrafts.
It is on to "sea trial" now to get the "ride height" correct and to make sure my electrics all function.
You may have noticed an extension of the kort. All the similar boats at my Club have this modification which they assure me improves turning circle.
Regards
Alan
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Lovely job Alan.
I found mine sat just about
right with a 6v SLA in the water
tank space and 8oz of ballast.
Ned
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Beautiful conversion Alan :-)) , I also found the Seaports to be a fun craft to work on and so versatile in the way of modifications.
Tony
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Great job Alan... and I think the crew will tank you for the nice roomy cabin! :-))
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The stand is very nicely made, did you make it yourself?
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Hi...The stand the boat is on is a temp. one from the Covette kit of the Snowberry.
I am making a new one from wood and this is the one I'm waiting for a nameplate for.
Regards
Alan