Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Tutorials & "How To’s" ... => Topic started by: unbuiltnautilus on July 04, 2012, 09:52:42 am
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Okay, open this up to the members. How about a helpline along the lines of "I want to replicate this effect on my model, how should I do it?"
Suggest posting a photo of a full size weathering 'bit, i.e. rusty bollard, oil stains, tarnished deck etc, and ask how to?
Lets see what we can do to help the members add that little bit of extra realism to their models.....
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I'm about to start doing the crew on my huntsman... would a how to on painting realistic flesh details etc be any interest to anyone?
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What a splendid idea for a thread :-))
I will shift a mixture of isolated tips gleaned from members on previous posts
over to here, so that they will all be in one place.
ken
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kim belcher does some lovely figure conversions for lifeboat modellers, he was doing deomonstrations at warwick on figures for all to see....his painted figures are very very nice...
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I doubt mine will be that good but I'll see what I can come up with
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I've started moving separate letters from all over the FORUM to here.
http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t791-submarine-weathering-masterclass-by-alan-taylor
Heres one I did previously....
Painting the Red October to follow on this forum as soon as I get a chance to put it together, meanwhile Krafty needs to get the paintbrush out again. Lets see some dark washes and pencil plating detail next.
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as opposed to reams of words , actual photos with discriptions would be far more helpful to all of us
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I'm working on it. It's not easy you know %)
Ken
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This is a great book for anyone wanting to learn about weathering techniques http://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Weathering-Martyn-Welch/dp/1874103119 Although railway based, the techniques can be applied universally.
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Here's a link to a previous article.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2299.msg22505#msg22505
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Another link to a weathering article
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12591.msg119822#msg119822
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I'm about to start doing the crew on my huntsman... would a how to on painting realistic flesh details etc be any interest to anyone?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=17851&p=1
I found this thread on a military modelling forum, very good detail on the shading of a figure as well as an interesting use for pigment powders. mind you, they would need a waterproofing coat to stop the first wave washing them off!
I am sure there are other, more detailed, articles referring to flesh colours etc, as it is a bit of a black art.
One piece of advice I once read related to the way light and dark would fall across a face. The modeller replicated this by placing a light off to one side of his own head, then using a mirror, replicated the shading and highlighting effects that he saw in his own face. I have tried this, it works but I have yet to perfect it....
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Right, I thought it was my turn to have ago. I have now moved onto the weathering of the hull of my tug "Craig". The first thing to do is distress the paint. I did this by lightly sanding the raised areas and those areas that would naturally get banged about during normal use. Then using weathering powders as seen on the workbench together with the brushes you can see, I applied some dark browny green powder to the upper works, brushing the excess off and then rubbing it in with a finger.
This was followed with the lighter rust colour where needed, again rubbing off excess. Where I wanted more colour, I simply wet the area first, then apply the powder, which sticks better and then when dry, brush and rub the excess away so there are no sharp edges left. Any areas that appear overdone are then gone over with a black powder in the same way as the first powders were applied. I rubbed in some black and brown powder to the bulwark capping to give it an aged appearance. This is not finished yet by a long way. I have many other coloured powders to give various effects, including a deeper rust look which must be used sparingly. Still I am quite happy with the start and if enough are interested, i will post more as I go along.
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Port side started. Getting better I think. Same process, just a little more weathering..
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A little more done on the weathering side of things. Main superstructure has been dirtied up a little and the hull above waterline just about completed except for the sealing top coat of matt varnish. Constructive criticism is more than welcome. I may have too much or two little weathering. Please feel free to give ideas..
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How would you go about painting peeling paint? For example Footskis wheel house..... would like to get the effect that it had been painted and the planks are now peeling
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Have a little question about the word varnish on this thread, since I speak American English,(amazingly two English speaking country's separated by a common language), is this real varnish or a decal hiding top coat? I'm about to start painting my Robbe U47 and will add decals from AMP. My concern is what to use as the finish coat to hide the decals sheen, my local hobby shop keep pushing lacquer based product which I'm concerned about water and lacquer. Someone suggested polyurethane. Any ideas
Thanks John
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How would you go about painting peeling paint? For example Footskis wheel house..... would like to get the effect that it had been painted and the planks are now peeling
Okay, is that peeling varnish on bare wood, or peeling paint on bare wood, OR peeling paint on paint?
The brain cells are ticking in anticipation :}
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A little more done on the weathering side of things. Main superstructure has been dirtied up a little and the hull above waterline just about completed except for the sealing top coat of matt varnish. Constructive criticism is more than welcome. I may have too much or two little weathering. Please feel free to give ideas..
love the superstructure, especially the effect on the light timbers. Maybe add a muddy scum line along the waterline, it needs a little bit of something on the hull, just not sure what...
Muddy scum lines; A mid tan/brown enamel ( Humbrol?) thinned down a bit with white spirit ( enamels take longer to dry, gives you longer to work.) Stipple it on with a small, stiff, possibly flat brush, along the waterline. Then spread it about a bit with a piece of kitchen roll. If it all looks a bit 'hunger strike' when applied, you can thin it down on the model with a clean brush dipped in clean white spirits, the brush only needs to be damp, not neccesarily wet ( unless its a real mess! ). Takes a bit of practice to get the look just right but its worth it.
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love the superstructure, especially the effect on the light timbers. Maybe add a muddy scum line along the waterline, it needs a little bit of something on the hull, just not sure what...
Muddy scum lines; A mid tan/brown enamel ( Humbrol?) thinned down a bit with white spirit ( enamels take longer to dry, gives you longer to work.) Stipple it on with a small, stiff, possibly flat brush, along the waterline. Then spread it about a bit with a piece of kitchen roll. If it all looks a bit 'hunger strike' when applied, you can thin it down on the model with a clean brush dipped in clean white spirits, the brush only needs to be damp, not neccesarily wet ( unless its a real mess! ). Takes a bit of practice to get the look just right but its worth it.
Thanks for that. I haven't really done waterline and below yet. For that, I am going to turn the hull over, before attacking it.....gently of course..
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of course! I would expect no less...
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Okay, is that peeling varnish on bare wood, or peeling paint on bare wood, OR peeling paint on paint?
The brain cells are ticking in anticipation :}
well I was thinking peeling paint on bare wood but paint on paint sounds interesting as well
Any chance of both? :D
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Following a fevered evening over lolly sticks, I present the following...
Flakey Paint for beginners.
(http://s16.postimage.org/iuszo7im9/Tank_Fest_235.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iuszo7im9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/nhz1pz5z5/Tank_Fest_236.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nhz1pz5z5/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/788vn2vb5/Tank_Fest_239.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/788vn2vb5/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/79itghx4x/Tank_Fest_240.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/79itghx4x/)
I made up two test pieces, one for paint and one for varnish. The painted one was primed with a all purpose primer, the varnished one was left un-sealed. Using Copydex and/or Maskol as masking mediums. These were stippled on to the area using a coarse scourer and the applicator brush in the Copydex
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(http://s14.postimage.org/cqnksavq5/Tank_Fest_241.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cqnksavq5/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/75zikdjs1/Tank_Fest_248.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/75zikdjs1/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/9ol7l25i9/Tank_Fest_250.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9ol7l25i9/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/bho49dqox/Tank_Fest_251.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bho49dqox/)
The masking fluid is dry within an hour. The painted one was then coated with Tamiya Gloss Black, simply because it was fast drying, and gloss to contrast better with the matt grey underneath.
The bare wood test piece was first wood stained, then varnished with Humbrol Gloss Cote.
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(http://s14.postimage.org/639coo5r1/Tank_Fest_252.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/639coo5r1/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/n526qrkm5/Tank_Fest_254.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n526qrkm5/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/hux7zh0d9/Tank_Fest_255.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hux7zh0d9/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/9sa0xn3ir/Tank_Fest_256.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9sa0xn3ir/)
Once dry, its time to start removing the masking fluid, this is best done with a pencil eraser. Small, stuborn bits can be removed with a cocktail stick, suitable shaped lolly stick, scrap of balsawood etc.
So, success on the paint, but not happy with the varnished look {:-{
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I will not be beaten, so try again.
(http://s7.postimage.org/xsh16muc7/Tank_Fest_257.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xsh16muc7/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/7y78guuc7/Tank_Fest_258.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7y78guuc7/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/nxj3ek9wd/Tank_Fest_259.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nxj3ek9wd/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/er0sra4nx/Tank_Fest_260.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/er0sra4nx/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/9gvtzzkf1/Tank_Fest_261.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9gvtzzkf1/)
I tried Modelmates Moss weathering wash on the bare wood. This soaked straight in and looked too much. I only applied it to one'plank' so no loss there. Also tried this on the painted finish, where it offered a better effect. This stuff isn't waterproof. if you use it on a model don't forget to seal it in with a varnish coat.
Next I tried to simulate the silvering effect you see on old wood, with a 4H pencil, a silver pencil, and finally by buffing into the grain Humbrol 64 Matt Grey.
Fail, give up, go to bed.
PS; dont use Maskol on bare wood, it turns it pink :o
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Cut to this A.M.
(http://s13.postimage.org/nhqs17mhf/Tank_Fest_262.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nhqs17mhf/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/um8la8tqr/Tank_Fest_263.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/um8la8tqr/)
I went for a faster drying, thicker top coat this time, Sanding Sealer, slapped on thick, following the masking procedure.
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Jobs a good'n!
(http://s15.postimage.org/exgqvq8vb/Tank_Fest_264.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/exgqvq8vb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/7hzsznaqf/Tank_Fest_265.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7hzsznaqf/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/qbllwn8yf/Tank_Fest_266.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qbllwn8yf/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/aemtzxgk7/Tank_Fest_267.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aemtzxgk7/)
On reflection, if I was trying to simulate this effect on one of my models, I would probably lightly 'abuse' the deck first, then seal it with a matt varnish before applying the masking solution. Then go for the varnish effect after that. Have fun :-))
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Great experiment. It is superb on the painted surface......Now where did I put my Maskol?