Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: loveboat on August 14, 2012, 09:16:34 am
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hi all ,
im doing my first boat project ive only been at it 2 weeks but i think im starting to get somewhere now
it was originally a nqd storm 30 inch , ive ripped iut all the rubbish electrics and fitted
alloy motor mount
lipo battery mounts
traxxas 1/10th water proof servo
95mm rudder
twin water cooling (1 for motor 1 for the esc)
100 amp water cooled esc
i am also waiting for a few parts to be delivered
330 mm 4 mm flexi shaft and mount
bronze prop
3674 2000kv water cooled brushless motor
i know ive prob got one or 2 things wrong but with this being my first project i suppose its going to happen so please go easy on me lol
ive taken a few pics the paints not finished yet might finsh that off today if i get time
please feel free to comment
i will post more pics as i progress
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/620515_10151232876467023_1544790963_o1.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/257926_10151247128282023_985593990_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/468601_10151247333347023_904210116_o.jpg)
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Looking good... Im guessing you are planning on 11.1V 3S lipo? should go like stink with a 4S lipo
Be careful with prop sizes tho as they can really affect the current draw (don't ask how I know)
I nearly bought one of those when I was last in the UK.... the local "cheap chinese import" had them for about 30quid.... looked like they had been on the shelf since last Christmas tho lol
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lol there not the best i bought it with the intenion of doing this too it i just hope it works lol
i was going to run it on 3s yeah and the prop ive ordered its a bronze 35mm with 49 pitch means nothing to me but if that dont fit i have 2 other brushless boats it should do good on
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few more pics ,
got the rudder steering finished off and yes that is a bbq scewer lol
ive still got to plug up some small holes but that can wait till ive fitted the prop shaft
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/259498_10151248103192023_641038498_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/291427_10151248101182023_1248747501_o.jpg)
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got the rudder steering finished off and yes that is a bbq scewer lol
If the cap fits... (or BBQ skewer in this case) :)
That looks like it will be a very nice paint job when its finished
I would have chosen a different motor mount tho as my experience of that type is that they do have a tendancy to twist as the alloy is quite soft.
This might be a better bet, as it give you extra cooling for the motor
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTOR-MOUNT-WATERCOOLED-BRUSHLESS-B36-540-550-rc-boat-model-adjustable-B28-700-/150762384438?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item231a236c36
I can reccomend the seller highly... A nice chap and quite knowledgeable.
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cheers pal ill look into that , how do you mount it to the hull ?
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paints finished bit of a shocker but it will do better than custard yellow anyways lol
just need some more decals to finish it off
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/338110_10151248253552023_1281239175_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/614460_10151248255297023_1145499633_o.jpg)
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few more pics , all i have to do now is fit the esc , seal the hull and screw it together and its ready for its first test
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/259398_10151252209872023_555019427_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/621025_10151252209662023_28892498_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/616814_10151252209352023_536915345_o.jpg)
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Not from own personal experience but from what i gather by other peoples experience of these hulls that they are quite brittle. The motor in the boat is quite beefy and the torque will apply torsional stresses to the length of the hull when the prop is underload in the water. I think that these screw holes will weaken the hull and form cracks along the length. It seems evident that drilling and just fitting screws in the hull has formed cracks in the paint work allready.
It may be just the way the light has caught the hull and i might be wrong. I hope i am wrong because id hate to see your hard work go TU {:-{
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there just scatches mate were its been moved about its not got a stand for it you see so this will happen ,
i do have the same worries as you though i thought of getting a sheet off ali and putting it on bottom of boat to make it stronger
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... can't wait to see a video of this thing on the water.... or very blurry photos! :o
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i cant wait get it out mate and see what it can do , ill defo post a video of it though .....
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just a note wher you have atached the ruder and strut to the transorm you will need to reinforce this usualy with racing boats we atach a ply reinforcment plate to the back then bolt the hardwher throw this and samwich the hull between the ply and gear :-))
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Yes, good advice! :-))
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just a note wher you have atached the ruder and strut to the transorm you will need to reinforce this usualy with racing boats we atach a ply reinforcment plate to the back then bolt the hardwher throw this and samwich the hull between the ply and gear :-))
shame i didnt read this an hour ago ive just siliconed it all and put it together lol , will have to see how it holds up as it is for now , im hoping to find the same hull but in fibre glass so i can just swap everything over .
thanks for the advice though mate
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well apart from the video ill upload when i test the boat these will be the last pics i upload of the build
i must be honest im pretty sad that its 99% complete as ive really enjoyed doing this i can see why boating it so addictive
well here it is just the esc to finish it off
its all been sealed and screwed together and the water cooling installed and ready to go
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/220090_10151254549472023_1912232874_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/329689_10151254550677023_1837034717_o.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/616186_10151254550057023_329862895_o.jpg)
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Hi.just a small point here .i have noticed that you dont have a turn fin under your boat,i run a modded petrol hydro and have one on mine which really does help the boat turn at speed,maybe worth you looking into one ,very nice build and hope it all goes well :-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi.just a small point here .i have noticed that you dont have a turn fin under your boat,i run a modded petrol hydro and have one on mine which really does help the boat turn at speed,maybe worth you looking into one ,very nice build and hope it all goes well :-)) :-)) :-))
what do you mean mate sorry im pretty new to boats , if you say its better ill get one for it ??? could you post a pic of yours on here so i can have a look :-))
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Don't forget lots of reserve buoyancy, small bubble wrap is excellent!
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Don't forget lots of reserve buoyancy, small bubble wrap is excellent!
got loads mate all the front is full of poli and the rear , ive also filled the top cover full of it and will stuff some of the inside full of bubble rap but wont get much in as theres not much room
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got loads mate all the front is full of poli and the rear , ive also filled the top cover full of it and will stuff some of the inside full of bubble rap but wont get much in as theres not much room
and don't forget ......http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Clips-for-Trousers-Brand-New-in-Pack-/120967548081?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item1c2a3a4cb1#ht_500wt_1414
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Hi.Here are some pictures of my hydro mate,hope this helps,as you can see it runs a turn fin underneath the front sponson on the right,with rudder on the left to help it turn at speed, :} :} :}
(http://s17.postimage.org/jca31qquj/2012_08_17_16_51_35.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jca31qquj/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/n02f70asv/2012_08_17_16_51_56.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n02f70asv/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/qvxlzorz9/2012_08_17_16_51_43.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qvxlzorz9/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/xqci34a05/2012_08_17_16_52_05.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xqci34a05/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/82oxwrqyz/2012_08_17_16_52_23.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/82oxwrqyz/)
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right i get ya , cheers buddy
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and don't forget ......http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Clips-for-Trousers-Brand-New-in-Pack-/120967548081?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item1c2a3a4cb1#ht_500wt_1414
i dont get that why would he need bicycle clips?
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To keep the brown trousers tight at the ankles {:-{
Ned
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lol :-))
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you dont think its going to float then ?
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you dont think its going to float then ?
LOL,,,i think it might be a body function you might have when you realise how fast your boat might go :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
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i can only hope lol {-)
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LOL,,,i think it might be a body function you might have when you realise how fast your boat might go :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
do you think its going to be quick mate ?
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do you think its going to be quick mate ?
i think with abit of testing and setting up it should be a quick boat,brushless is not my thing,im into petrol,but you mite find you wil have to shift some weight around as they like to have most of the weight up front ,the back of these should lift out at speed and ride on the prop,dont expect it to turn good without the turn fin as i mentioned befor,but for your first build it all looks good,only time will tell. :-))
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i had it in the bath last night to see how it sits in water and the rear is pretty low , was thinking of adding some lead weights to the front to conunter balance it , what do you think ?
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no dont add extra weight. its better to reposition the parts. Adding weight at the front wont seesaw the rear out the water but will just push the front under so its just as low in the water as the rear.
Its usual for all of these surface peircing boats to have their stern right down in the water, they lift out when on a plane. For me personally i would have kept the set up as you originally had it. batteries at the front then motor.
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i couldnt because of the lengh of the prop shaft , but ive just made a battery tray the slides down the front of the boat past the motor and it seems like it will work good , as soon as its finished ill post a pic so you can see it ,
i think its better like this because the weights now at the front , and i have room to fit a waterproof box for the receiver which is always good
can you see any other issues i may have ?
cheers guys
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you can cut down the prop shaft length you know :}
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i didnt know that but i think its a bit late to change it ,
this is what ive come up with it looks a mess but the battery is a tight fit and can not move when fitted inside the mount
once the glue drys ill stick the battery in and post another pic
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/621007_10151256209027023_1744848130_o.jpg)
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this is it with the battery fitted in the mount
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/202463_10151256448922023_781640498_o.jpg)
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Care to join me down the bottom of the lake? {-)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/DSC06681.jpg)
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Could call it Bicycle Clipper %% %%
Ned
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that setup will see mid 30's mph thats if the hull can take the torque,you should of reinforced that area wouldnt surprise me if it pulls the screws the plastic off the torque of the motor
the other problem is the 4mm driveline wont last long with the torque of that motor if too large of prop used
3s on that motor ,thats a 4s/5s motor iv even run 6s on the leopard equivelent
Youll need a bigger esc too minimum 120amp unless you keep props small so dont expect too much from it
JMO
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I think the bigger problem is with that battery where it is the first time the boat hits a wave it'll be 20,000 leagues under the lake {-)
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Something else i just noticed aswell
Get rid of them deans connectors off the battery there only rated for max 50amp draw i wouldnt be surprised if your pulling double that on throttle up (obviously this comes down to prop choice etc) and more than that on continuous throttle
Youll need to use 4mm gold bullets minimum
Iv seen what happens when the deans let go,a friend of mine used them lasted no more than 3mins POOF boat stopped in middle of lake when we got it back fried the esc,lipos and boat full of smoke lesson learnt
The deans had actually melted and welded the the negative and positive connectors together
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the motor is 3/4s and 85 amps , 900watts
as for the prop i bought a bronze one but i bought 4mm and the one i needed was 3/16 i think so thats just a plastic one off one of my other boats
im planning on getting this prop
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROPELLER-X443-3-16-dog-drive-rc-model-boat-/150876886024?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2320f69408
hopefully this is more like what i need im also going to get some 4s lipos
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this is what it says on the website i bought the motor off
Brushless Watercooled Motor 3674 900W 2045 KV For 8.4 to 12 volts. 2S to 4S lipo or 7 to 16 Nicad or NIMH packs. Mounting hole spacing of 19mm or 25mm. Motor diameter 36mm, waterjacket 46mm diameter, length 74mm. shaft diameter 5mm. Max Amps 85.
Replacement for 700 size motors but MUCH more powerful. Use with 70 to 90 Amp speed controller
is the prop above im thinking of getting going to be ok or should i be looking at something different ?
cheers lads , i really am greatful for your advice
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Dont pay too much attention to there amp ratings.you could 40-50% on top of that once loaded with a prop in the water,as for wattage you wont get no where near 900watts on 3s,to get that sort of watts you need to run them on the voltage limit
here was a post on rc groups some 1 got a data logger on 4074,2200kv leopard rated at 120amps,the data logger showed hitting the throttle the amps would spike over 200amps and was running a conservative prop octura M445
you still need to change them deans connectors on both lipos and esc you might be OK with prop though
I ran a 3674,2200KV on 4s with x442 prop in 25" deep vee hull with no issues but your hull is much bigger in comparison
Heres a vid but dont forget 1 thing when watching it,yours is a bigger hull on lower cells so wont be any near as quick
http://youtu.be/hRn-rHnsVGk
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i understand its a bigger boat and lower cells but if i can get it close to that on 4s and with a x442 prop ill be very very happen indeed , as for the hull i was mostly using this one as a practice as ive never done one i know you get get this hull in fibre glass so ill look at getting one of them in time
what connecters do you recomend mate?
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As his post states gold bullet 4mm Minimum...you can get them off Component shop
Dave
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nice one ..
its not the 442 prop i was looking at it was this one x443 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROPELLER-X443-3-16-4mm-bronze-dog-drive-rc-boat-prop-/150569631900?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item230ea6409c
its half the price of the x442
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Which ever prop you get make sure its balanced and sharpend
I understand what your doing but dont wanna see you waste maoney then it goes all wrong and not bother again trying to pass on from what i learnt so you dont make the same mistakes thats all :-))
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Which ever prop you get make sure its balanced and sharpend
I understand what your doing but dont wanna see you waste maoney then it goes all wrong and not bother again trying to pass on from what i learnt so you dont make the same mistakes thats all :-))
i really am greatful mate honestly :-))
im going to get a bit of ali or steel plate and reinforce that part of the hull were the motor mount bolts through tomorrow hopefully it will be stronger then
what do you think it will be capable of doing mph wise with that x443 prop and 4s lipos 45+ ???
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Fast electric has a very steep and unforgiving learning curve. F1 madness has pointed out that the 4mm flex cable will fail under the torque of the motor, unfortunatly for me thats the same propshaft thats installed in my boat. I use a 40mm 1.4 pitch graupner propeller diven by a 2000kv 3754 outrunner on 4s. The first two outings ive had were succesful but a bit too slow so im upping to 5s, the batteries havent arrived yet i just hope it all holds out. touch wood {:-{
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would it be worth changing it now or just using it till it fails ,
id use 5s or even 6s but that motor will only handle 4s so stuck with them but i dont think thats a bad thing really i only got my first rc boat 4 weeks ago so a boat on 6s might be a bit too far yet lol
alot of what ive done so far is pure guess work having never done any of this before the whole project minus the batterys has only cost me £130 which i thinks pretty good i know i could of bought something better for the money but half the fun was building it and working things out ive really enjoyed it :}
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just ordered an x443 prop , going to order some 4mm bullits for the lipos and esc as well and going to plate up the motor mount tomorrow
is there anything else that i will need to address
cheers guys
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my shaft has held ok so far so for now ill stick with it unless it fails. Hope not (touch wood). I would have thought that your motor should be able to withstand 5 or 6s. have you got a link to where you got it?
You will need a method of recovery for your boat by they way.
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just ordered an x443 prop , going to order some 4mm bullits for the lipos and esc as well and going to plate up the motor mount tomorrow
is there anything else that i will need to address
cheers guys
have you got a good soldering iron for those bullets?
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my shaft has held ok so far so for now ill stick with it unless it fails. Hope not (touch wood). I would have thought that your motor should be able to withstand 5 or 6s. have you got a link to where you got it?
You will need a method of recovery for your boat by they way.
got a way of getting the boat back i was planning on pushing it back with one of my others lol
yeah got a good soldering iron
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just to point you in the right direction hears your style of hull in fibre glass avail in uk :-))
http://www.performancemodels.co.uk/product_category/hydroplane/
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just to point you in the right direction hears your style of hull in fibre glass avail in uk :-))
http://www.performancemodels.co.uk/product_category/hydroplane/
just bookmarked that cheers buddy :-))
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And always remember that the lessons best learnt are those born of mistakes and successes in equal measures if at all possible
More pics soon mate
Bill :-))
(http://s15.postimage.org/idhbgf8rb/DSCF0063.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/idhbgf8rb/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/fxfi2kqon/DSCF0064.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fxfi2kqon/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/tfqzsls7r/DSCF0065.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tfqzsls7r/)
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keep um coming bill lol
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another mod i just finished is a receiver and esc box.
i made this out of a savox servo box its not going to be 100% waterproof because of the lid but it will add some protection and it makes it look a little better
ive also cut and fitted a alloy plate to the bottom of the hull and bolted the motor mount through the hull and alloy plate there so now no flex at all so should be plenty strong enough
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy222/grovehead/339172_10151264247157023_1997230691_o.jpg)
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my esc has come time for a test run i think :-)
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If you get a chance I`d be interested to know the total weight , ready to run. Dont forget the pictures/video of the float test :-))
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well im totally gutted all that money ive spent and it goes 10mph tops
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:(( - How disappointing, what's up?
Does the motor rev OK? If so, I suspect motor, prop pitch /size mismatch.
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theres threads all over the net about people who have modified this perticular boat (NQD sports game) and all of them comment about how disapointing the final result is.
heres an example of a brushless converted one, same result:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj5OjoX95nY&feature=related
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im gutted , has anyone get a suitable hull the swap all the gear over too
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All parts and boat for sale
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That is a pity. It looked so good, suppose it is inherently a poor hull.
Inspired by your efforts, I have dug a 24" hydro that I built but never finished or ran in the early 80's. Been sitting in the garage ever since.
Powered originally by 700BB and using nicads! and Turnigy 30A ESC. Might be a candidate for a brushless of some size or might just finish it off and try running it on 3S or 4S lipos.
(http://s12.postimage.org/w1a2i0edl/P9080006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w1a2i0edl/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ixj2l09d1/P9080008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ixj2l09d1/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/ldqmotn0x/P9080009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ldqmotn0x/)
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You'll need to buy a new esc and motor as running lipos on a brushed motor will kill it very quick , which I have if your interested lol
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Or, maybe it won't kill it at all...
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You can't use lipos with a brushed setup
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err yes you can use lipo's with brushed motors so long as the esc is lipo compatable ( whether you use a brushed esc with a low violtage alarm or a or low volt cutoff )
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loveboat why have you given up so early? {:-{
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Didn't realise Lipo compatible escs were around in the 1980 s , ill just keep my mouth shut now , do what you want pal
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not trying to put a cat amongst the pigeons but the that turnigy 30 esc in that boat is a modern one and has a connector block on it to make it lipo compatible with a lvc on it.
Id just like to point out loveboat that lipos can be still used on old esc's. Its just that old esc's dont have low voltage cut off. To overcome the damage by over discharging you connect a low voltage alarm to the balance lead of the lipo and it beeps when you get to 3v per cell.
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If I've made an error I've made one just gone off what I was always told when I use to race rc cars , think some of you need to chill out a bit though some off you are quite offensive , mad mike thanks for explaining mate
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err yes you can use lipo's with brushed motors so long as the esc is lipo compatable ( whether you use a brushed esc with a low violtage alarm or a or low volt cutoff )
It is my understanding, like Stormbringer, that Lipos ,like any other battery, supplies dc current at its nominal voltage which the 700BB is very happy with, (and will work quite a bit above its rated voltage as well). The same is basically true with many ESC's , they are only controlling incoming dc current within their voltage range, irrespective of the type of cell supplying it.
Where you have to be careful is that with the high energy density of LIPO's compared to NIMH or nicad cells, they can supply that dc voltage at high amps so the motor and ESC have to be able to cope with the load applied to it. By that, I mean, that just because a LIPO can discharge at high amps, it doesn't mean that it just will. It should only supply the level of power that the motor demands of it depending on prop size etc. A simple safety measure when using LIPOs in any i installation, brushed or brushless, is the inclusion of an inline fuse of appropriate rating in the wiring from the battery to the ESC
Probably the biggest issue with LIPOs is running them down below a certain voltage which will ruin them . Again, note "certain voltage" as people will argue till the cows come home on the various forums (fora?) just what that value should be. Like Stormbringer said, most lipo compatible ESCs will either have a suitable set value or a choice of several values, which when reached will either cut the supply to the motor or reduce it to enough to get the boat to shore.
If using a brushed esc then a simple and cheap alarm can be used that plugs into the balance plug of the lipo, which when the low limit is reached will sound a very loud and obvious alarm. If you don't take notice and end up with knackered cells, don't say that you weren't warned.
Lipos can breath new life into old models, especially those who were tight for space for nimh packs as there can be a considerable size advantage.
The only other issue is to get used to the slightly more stringent charging routine which you need to use for lipo cells
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well its water under the bridge now, dont take offence fella sometimes things are written down that seem a bit off but were not intended to be.
anyway i asked u why youn gave up so early? heck you only just got to the lake, ahwell so it goes 10 mph but thats just the hull not the gear. Put that stuff in a monohull and i dare say youl be pushing 50
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Hi Loveboat
You aren't going mad, mate.
When I pulled the boat out of the garage, it had an old and past it Digifleet set in it with one of their esc's . I popped the Turnigy in it to check for space etc before deciding whether to go brushless or retain the 700BB. Just addded that to the original kit list in error! Another grey moment!!
If the pictures were better, you could also see one of Giant Cod's 2.4ghz receivers tucked in there, which were very definitely not around in the 80's either!
There is a huge amount of confusion around using lipos and lots of myths out there. We do need to be careful to avoid any accidents which potentially might cause harm to any of us. I appreciate your comments which were obviously intended to save me hassle or disappointments.
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You can't use lipos with a brushed setup
Yes, you can.