Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

Dry Dock / Shipyard: Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: SwedishProjectBuilder on August 22, 2012, 02:43:41 PM

Title: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on August 22, 2012, 02:43:41 PM
Hello hello,

I'm back!
Due to,well to be quite honest lots and lots of partying, sailing and living the life of a teenager, the new submarine havent been worked on at all..
Though many thoughts have been given to the new project, and I will shortly begin the building process.

Also, this autumn I will begin to study mechanics in school (The Faculty of Engineering at Lund University), which seem relevant to the construction of a submarine.

These are some old pictures but they show the first sketches and the overall idea.

(http://s10.postimage.org/t3clhifvp/Skiss_26_10_2011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t3clhifvp/)

(http://s16.postimage.org/a05kapdrl/Knappt_B_tank.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a05kapdrl/)

Will soon be back with update regarding the building process.
I'm aiming to begin either this sunday or the next one with the making of the "discs"
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Martin [Admin] on August 22, 2012, 02:46:36 PM

Due to,well to be quite honest lots and lots of partying, sailing and living the life of a teenager, the new submarine havent been worked on at all..
Though many thoughts have been given to the new project, and I will shortly begin the building process.


I must be getting old... I feel tired just reading that!  {-)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on August 22, 2012, 03:21:00 PM

I must be getting old... I feel tired just reading that!  {-)


by joining this forum I've probably lowered the age average a bit.. hehe
fortunately there is no "right or wrong" age regarding the interest of building submarines, thats atleast what I've heard.
Though, its not the first I mention when on a date..
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on August 22, 2012, 05:09:43 PM
Some more recent pictures.

(http://s15.postimage.org/5ui95rqo7/M_tt.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5ui95rqo7/)

(http://s8.postimage.org/41eqto3ap/skiss.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/41eqto3ap/)

I love paint :D
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on September 07, 2012, 07:00:29 PM
Today I've actually had the opportunity to work on the submarine!
here are some pictures from the process.

I only have 4 more "discs" left to make.

(http://s9.postimage.org/i10t8uk4b/bild.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i10t8uk4b/)
the two stacks in front will become the pistons with 2 o-rings each
(http://s13.postimage.org/nnltoc4c3/bild_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nnltoc4c3/)
perfect!
(http://s18.postimage.org/s1jsadl2t/bild_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s1jsadl2t/)
finally, a proper saw
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on September 09, 2012, 08:02:03 PM

(http://s12.postimage.org/gtin52s7d/bild_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gtin52s7d/)

(http://s14.postimage.org/nm3w9f5st/ballasttank_st_dhylsa.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nm3w9f5st/)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 07, 2013, 07:11:49 PM
Yoyoy, long time no see...
(http://s2.postimage.org/8qx1z4l61/IMG_1008.jpg)
moveable endcap, waiting for 2 o-rings, When the o-rings arrive the fittings for them will be made.

(http://s2.postimage.org/4j29qdjqh/IMG_1010.jpg)
bulkheads in the aft/rear

(http://s2.postimage.org/4x3lpz3u1/IMG_1012.jpg)

(http://s2.postimage.org/spcx1i5ux/IMG_1013.jpg)
the inside of one of the two pistons, here with the "lock" to the rod.

(http://s2.postimage.org/uvbt9qyp5/IMG_1015.jpg)
Again, the "lock"

(http://s2.postimage.org/vm4jfj12h/IMG_1018.jpg)
two pistons, patiently waiting for 2 o-rings each. When the o-rings arrive the fittings for them will be made.

(http://s2.postimage.org/5t4oj62w9/IMG_1019.jpg)
end cap for the piston tanks with hose attachment. glued today. the center hole will be filled, somehow.

(http://s2.postimage.org/g4h1btull/IMG_1020.jpg)

(http://s2.postimage.org/3se4yc6qx/IMG_1025.jpg)

(http://s2.postimage.org/v5jbt3dbd/IMG_1026.jpg)
end cap for the rear,
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 21, 2013, 05:43:50 PM


(http://s9.postimage.org/xizfqfzjj/IMG_1058.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
image ru (http://postimage.org/)


4 of them for the pistons and 2 for the detachable end cap.
The O-rings have arrived from Dichtomatik in Landskrona!




cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 26, 2013, 07:48:02 PM

(http://s7.postimage.org/p6gkzqtrv/IMG_1060.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s7.postimage.org/fogtzp83f/IMG_1061.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s7.postimage.org/u8xwuj323/IMG_1062.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
glued some today. And yes they are squares, ugly squares to seal the holes that were made when making the "discs". I dont like the squares at all.. But since they are going to be inside the ballast tanks, which means noone will se them...



Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 29, 2013, 04:55:30 PM

(http://s8.postimage.org/575kh16sl/IMG_1067.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Mail!  :-)
(http://s8.postimage.org/eg7qr5fol/IMG_1070.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Yes, they are big, and not in the right shape yet. But this was the cheapest way to do it.
In the hole a plug will be fitted, the plug will have a threaded M5 hole through it parallel with its own axis. This gear will then have a small threaded hole drilled in the hub showed in the picture to fit a grub screw which will hold the plug fixed together with the gear.
All this to make it roughly 5 times cheaper then any other price example I was given.


In two days I expect delivery from UPS with motors and other fun stuff  :-)


Cheers

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: unbuiltnautilus on January 29, 2013, 06:10:09 PM


glued some today. And yes they are squares, ugly squares to seal the holes that were made when making the "discs". I dont like the squares at all.. But since they are going to be inside the ballast tanks, which means noone will se them...


You could have turned some nice, round discs as 'blanks', just having to fill the holes in the middle..... :embarrassed:

Good job so far, looking forward to the next installment. :-))
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 29, 2013, 06:13:43 PM

You could have turned some nice, round discs as 'blanks', just having to fill the holes in the middle..... :embarrassed:

Good job so far, looking forward to the next installment. :-))


Well I could, but unfortunately I dont have the tools to make such discs. All my discs end up with a hole in the middle..
Maybe Im a bit lazy at the moment too... :-)

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 31, 2013, 11:29:04 AM

(http://s7.postimage.org/5yjxkvkl7/IMG_1077.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Had a visitor from UPS today  :-)
(http://s7.postimage.org/hoxv29ddn/IMG_1079.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
I knew that the small gears would not be as long as the big ones, and yes I did actually do the math and compare but unfortunately everything don't end up as planned in reality.
Will "extend" the axis from the motors and add some nice bearings to keep them in place.


Cheers :-)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: derekwarner on January 31, 2013, 12:00:25 PM
Sebastian..........without appearing negative......... :((  the visual sizing of the external gearing as shown + the bearing supports which will be horrifically over sized  <*<
We also see the current MFA enclosed motor/gearbox assemby as 50:1....could you not consider an alternate enclosed MFA assembly ratio of 150:1 ....or the like?......Derek
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 31, 2013, 01:04:43 PM
Sebastian..........without appearing negative......... :((  the visual sizing of the external gearing as shown + the bearing supports which will be horrifically over sized  <*<
We also see the current MFA enclosed motor/gearbox assemby as 50:1....could you not consider an alternate enclosed MFA assembly ratio of 150:1 ....or the like?......Derek

Oh,
Dont know if you've read previous post about how the big gear will be fitted to the m5 rod.
But i believe that even though the big gear is just that, big, it itself wont be needing any bearings. Only supports to steer the rod and vertical supports to make the plug not moving in the horisontal axis.
The small gear will be fitted to an axis which is extended from the motor.
Its this axis that will need bearings.
The motor produces 300rpm~
The gear ratio is 50:1 with the small and big gears.
Making the speed of the big gear to be 60rpm~.

Will make a blueprint this evening.
Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 31, 2013, 08:12:56 PM

Made a quick sketch without measurements.

(http://s4.postimage.org/vyln5ffwt/IMG_1081.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
The big blue is the big gear.
The light green is the plug that will be fitted with a grub screw (black) in the hole of the big gear.
The plug will also be threaded in the inside hole to fit on the M5 rod (red).
Dark green is the smaller gear, fitted with the grub screw on the axis connected to the engine.
The yellow parts is just to help the gear in place.
Dark blue are bearings to support the engine axis.


Cheers  :-)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: essex2visuvesi on January 31, 2013, 10:55:59 PM
whats the diameter of the shaft with the green gear? I have a load of ballraces from RC cars so might have something of a suitable size
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on February 01, 2013, 06:37:32 AM
whats the diameter of the shaft with the green gear? I have a load of ballraces from RC cars so might have something of a suitable size
It's a 6mm shaft. I've already ordered bearings and lock rings...  {:-{
Thank you for the thought though! :-)

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on February 02, 2013, 10:59:51 PM

(http://s11.postimage.org/qf9vf0dyr/IMG_1086.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
What is hiding in the tube?  O0
(http://s11.postimage.org/x70ahv2yb/IMG_1087.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Oh look there, (the camera somehow choose to focus on the shelf...)
(http://s11.postimage.org/hmswrbstv/IMG_1088.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Testing the setup and planing where all holes will go for water outlet hoses, electrical wiring and so on..
(http://s11.postimage.org/9vc6srooj/IMG_1090.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Where the gear will be. Not yet ready though.. Hopefully it will be ready on monday.

(http://s12.postimage.org/n1v8w5oh9/IMG_1091.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
The pistons. not glued yet, but soon they will be.


Cheers  :-)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on February 04, 2013, 03:23:12 PM
After a few hours in the schools workshop with Mattias:

(http://s12.postimage.org/gnc0wlvpp/IMG_1092.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s12.postimage.org/bq31p8j4d/IMG_1093.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


Unfortunately, I made a massive rookie mistake........ %%
The piston rod is M6, none part is M5, have no idea where I got the idea that it would be M5.
Damn it, so tomorrow morning we're at it again.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 07, 2013, 10:07:42 PM

(http://s22.postimage.org/fwloklt9t/IMG_1146.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Strengthening bulkhead in the aft for the rudders. 
(http://s22.postimage.org/utu5lm6i9/IMG_1147.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


Havent had much work done lately. Mostly due to quite a lot in school, especially Mechanics of materials....
Mid-term finals the next week.


But soon I will be able to focus a lot more on the submarine, finish the ballast tanks, try the WTC seals etc..
Cheers for now
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: eddiesolo on March 07, 2013, 10:59:29 PM
I know naff all about working model subs, can make a model one...engineer stuff like this or even pre-bought stuff...no chance. That is why I love reading threads like this, amazing stuff, keep going it is great stuff!
Si:)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 07, 2013, 11:05:39 PM
I know naff all about working model subs, can make a model one...engineer stuff like this or even pre-bought stuff...no chance. That is why I love reading threads like this, amazing stuff, keep going it is great stuff!
Si:)
Thank you, Its nice to be appreciated.  :-)
Forgot to mention. the white stuff is just left over toilet paper from gluing.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 16, 2013, 08:30:56 PM

(http://s15.postimage.org/3nwpldcbf/IMG_1160.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)



(http://s7.postimage.org/781o62agb/IMG_1161.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Not sure yet if the motors will be directly linked to the small gear...
(http://s7.postimage.org/x4vcioe3v/IMG_1162.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Or as in this picture, connected with a rod that will be supported by bearings.
The first version (directly connected) is more space saving and will probably be the solution.
(http://s15.postimage.org/wu4t4g42j/IMG_1163.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
The pipe will not be as long as in the pictures, obviously, and the bulkheads will be aligned.
(http://s15.postimage.org/ddk3hx8yj/IMG_1164.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Rods were added to support and give the aft strength.
(http://s15.postimage.org/r8ie0e3dn/IMG_1165.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Originally the thought was to give the 4 long rods the same fitting-solution as the two new ones have. (built in)
Unfortunately I forgot that and just now realized it.. Maybe I will remake the end plug in the future.
(http://s15.postimage.org/xovy481az/IMG_1166.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


Cheers for now! Hoping to get a lot more done the upcoming week
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Lash151 on March 17, 2013, 01:07:52 AM
This is all looking really good... I am following your thread with great interest... keep up the good work!
Lee
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 19, 2013, 10:33:16 PM

(http://s9.postimage.org/4kq9s57bz/IMG_1169.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
I was sure I had ordered 4mm diameter pipes, but they needed some improvement.
(http://s9.postimage.org/ogqulfdr3/IMG_1170.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Some drilling
(http://s9.postimage.org/v8h9oa2qn/IMG_1171.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Fixing edges
(http://s9.postimage.org/s2wny2k4f/IMG_1173.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s9.postimage.org/6uizgn5nj/IMG_1174.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Still havent got rid of the paper that is left from glueing..
(http://s9.postimage.org/mha8u0jfj/IMG_1175.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Still not sure how to construct the fitting for the push-rods that will make the rudders move.
(http://s9.postimage.org/y8y44te1r/IMG_1178.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
I was kind of in a rush, therefor some bad pictures..
(http://s9.postimage.org/6mvck4uov/IMG_1179.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


(http://s9.postimage.org/akim9jhi7/IMG_1180.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Forward ballasttank, pretty much done. Not entirely done, will make a small cut in the disc, where the engine support will be inserted to make the engine not roll. Bad explanation, sorry for that, hopefully wont take long until I can show a picture.
(http://s9.postimage.org/7ey0jbyvz/IMG_1182.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)




Small question:
I need help locating an electric engine for propulsion, 12-15V approximately, and as short as possible within reasonable price range. Preferably geared down to 4000-5000rpm.
Reasonable price, 15-30£.
I know that the type I've used for the ballasttanks are suitable, but is there any shorter ones?
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 20, 2013, 11:26:47 AM
Sure about that RPM? I'd have thought 2-3000 RPM top whack for a boat that size, maybe less, depending on the propeller diameter and pitch.

Blower motor out of a car heater will run all day long direct drive on 12 volts- no gearbox required, and it looks like you have the buoyancy to support the weight of a can like that.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 20, 2013, 11:49:18 AM
Sure about that RPM? I'd have thought 2-3000 RPM top whack for a boat that size, maybe less, depending on the propeller diameter and pitch.

Blower motor out of a car heater will run all day long direct drive on 12 volts- no gearbox required, and it looks like you have the buoyancy to support the weight of a can like that.


No Iam not sure about that RPM, unfortunately my knowledge about propeller rpm it limited..
I will use a 7-blade, brass, prop with a diameter of approximately 70mm. Pitch, not sure.


Thank you for the suggestion, will take a look at it.
Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 20, 2013, 12:22:32 PM
There are a lot of factors governing propeller RPM, Diameter and pitch of prop,  blade number and area.


However we can dial in roughly what we want if we at least know the diameter and pitch.


We know the diameter is 70mm. Optimal pitch is generally between about 1-1.3 times the diameter for electric powered craft. So working to the upper end of that 1.3 times the diameter is 91mm for pitch.


Converting that to imperial measurement gives 3.6". Assuming 25% slip we use the following formula for a 3000RPM shaft speed 3.6x3000RPM/1408= 7.6mph or a tad over 12kmh. I doubt you want that sort of speed, and it will take a lot of watts to push your boat along.


I would aim for 1500-2000RPM shaft speed.







Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 20, 2013, 08:22:16 PM
Ohh, very nice!
Thanks for the help, Subculture very valuable information!


Cheers!

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on March 21, 2013, 10:29:18 AM
Just to help answer your question about motors and minimising motor length. This photo (if it appears - some time since I posted a photo on here. ok2 )
This shows the method I used on my British R class. The motor shaft points towards the bow. The reduction gears (if you want - notched drive belts used here.) give the necessary 3 to 1 reduction.
This arrangement drives a big sub (about 6 feet long) at a very good speed. (The originals were also fast!)
The shaft seal is rather hidden in the photo but is Simmering type seal. Worked very well for many years now.
David
 
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on March 21, 2013, 10:29:44 AM
Just to help answer your question about motors and minimising motor length. This photo (if it appears - some time since I posted a photo on here. ok2 )
This shows the method I used on my British R class. The motor shaft points towards the bow. The reduction gears (if you want - notched drive belts used here.) give the necessary 3 to 1 reduction.
This arrangement drives a big sub (about 6 feet long) at a very good speed. (The originals were also fast!)
The shaft seal is rather hidden in the photo but is Simmering type seal. Worked very well for many years now.
David
Sorry about posting it twice. The photo posting method worked too well!
 
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 21, 2013, 11:51:37 AM
That all looks really good.
Maybe I will use the "belt-version", seems to be a very nice solution. I too will use one or two simmerings to seal the prop-shaft, they will be located in the smaller part of the brass pipe.

The problem I have is that I want to maximize the size of my ballasttanks. You see, the rods pushing/pulling the pistons in the tanks, cant go besides each other when in fully submerged position. If I have the shortest possible main engine I can move the rear-ballasttank further back and thereby I wont be needed to "optimize" the tanks (cutting the pipes and cutting the piston-rods).

(http://s7.postimg.org/onrm2b49n/IMG_1183.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Salvaged these from the old submarine. Will cut 2 of the 3 "arms" on each one of them.
Will be have to drill up bigger holes, but rather that then to make them smaller  :}
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 22, 2013, 10:30:10 PM
Good evening everyone!
Is there any one who have found simmerrings for 6mm shafts for sale online?
I've tried to get in contact with a few companies, Trelleborg for example, but not successful yet..
Thanks in advance,
Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 23, 2013, 11:01:15 AM
These guys are good for miniature oil seals

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Seals-All+Oil+Seals/c19_4463/index.html

Simmerring is Freudenberg/Simrit trade name for  oil seals. A lot of other companies selling these. if you want a genuine Simmerring, then norbert bruggen sells them in one off quantities, and BSL brammer in the Uk distribute them, but will only want to do business if you order a bunch of them ( eg. 25 or more).

Another alternative that works very well is to use an o-ring with a compression gland. Usually silicone o-rings are used, as they are soft and much more resistant to heat from any friction that might develop.

6mm shaft sounds rather big, 4 or perhaps 5mm would be more appropriate.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 26, 2013, 10:31:00 PM
Thanks for the help!
Have now ordered 2 seal rings for the prop shaft.
Had some time to work the past weekend, some progress but also some set backs..
The brass outlets from the tanks are not as "watertight" as I first thought. Either I will make an epoxi solution or I'll have to remake them. (will try the epoxi solution first)
I accidentally broke the rod for one of the pistons.. Had not made the "trenches" for the O-rings deep enough and therefor the O-rings provided an awful a lot of friction which in the end (when I tried to take the piston out) resolved in the rod breaking.
Good news is that I have all figured out how to solve the problems and how to "fix it".
Oh, and the pushrods for the rudders are soon done. The servos is in place and all I need is some new linkages from engel-modellbau.
Also tried out the ballasttank motors, works excellent together with the gears and piston rods (except when the rods break)


unfortunatley I was so mad that I forgot to take pictures...
Will give you an update the next week.


Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on March 27, 2013, 09:40:17 AM
Sorry to see that you broke a threaded rod - a lot of force involved in piston tanks!
You may find that if the piston tank has not been moved for some days it is particularly stiff and it may be worth moving the gears by hand for a few mm, just to free it. (Lubricating the cylinder does not seem to be any help with this problem.)
If you are still having problems after you have increased the size of  the "trenches" you may consider:
- Removing one O ring (2 is a little over engineered, perhaps.)
-Replacing the O rings with the softer silicone O rings (usually red in colour)
Keep up the good work!
David
 
 
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 27, 2013, 05:33:57 PM
Recommendation is no more than 10% squish on o-rings for dynamic movement. perhaps the inside finish of the cylinder is a little wavy, and too low tolerance to enable 10% squish? If so you may need to look for a better piece of tube, or consider cup seals like Engel tanks. They are very large tanks you have built there.

In my line of work, we use a lot of pneumatic motors. These were traditionally constructed from cast iron, with nitrile rubber cup seals, and lubricated periodically with a mineral based oil. Despite frequent maintenance, they were often a source of problems, especially as they aged. A few years ago, the motors were re-engineered, with mainly aluminium construction, and Teflon (PTFE) coated cylinders. These have proved to be exceedingly reliable and need zero maintenance over their lifetime (which is considerable). I've seen companies that offer the coating surface, but I don't think they deal with the small quantities modellers want. Shame as it would make an ideal tube for piston tanks, with the teflon coating being self lubricating, waterproof and hard wearing, and the aluminium tube providing a nice concentric bore for the seal.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on April 02, 2013, 11:55:26 AM

The teflon I find very interesting, will try to have a word with the teacher I had in an previous course I took, construction materials.
They are very large tanks you have built there.


Well, I've designed the submarine to be easily upgradeable in the future. I have big plans, turret mounted camera, long-disctance capacity etc.
Anyone have any suggestions about where to order a suitable brass-prop. except Engel-modelbau and Cornwallmodelboats?


Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on April 02, 2013, 02:38:50 PM
Prop shop make lovely investment cast props. not cheap, but lovely things.

http://www.prop-shop.co.uk
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on April 03, 2013, 09:49:59 AM
With your evident metalwork and lathe skills, why not try making your own props?
You are not talking about a scale prop here (I don't think?) and you will save yourself a lot of money - for more partying!
The basic method is not difficult. A short section of brass rod in a lathe, drilled and tapped for a grub screw perhaps. (Or you can just soft solder it onto a brass prop shaft. With a hacksaw cut 3 or 4 slots at about 45 degrees. (Use the lathe chuck to get equal spacing's. ) 
Cut the blades from sheet brass (About 1mm sheet. Use tin snips or an old pair of scissors.)
Soft solder  or hard solder (better) the blades fitted in the slots.
Clean up and bend the outer blades to a flatter pitch (turn it by hand in the lathe chuck.)
I have used this method several times for Edwardian and Victorian props which are not available from a catalogue. Probably not the most efficient props but "model" props are never very efficient anyway.
You can also adjust the pitch easily to suit your motor/ desired speed etc.
David

 
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on April 03, 2013, 09:50:26 AM
Forgot to say that hard solder is better for the blades not least because you can then reheat the prop to re-anneal the brass blades if they start to get hard to bend.
David


 
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on April 06, 2013, 09:25:49 PM
Thank you for the tip David!
Will probably buy the propeller though.. Would like to make one in the future, but till then I'll buy one.
Next update wont be until next weekend. Due to lots of other stuff, also still waiting on a delivery.


Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on April 08, 2013, 02:23:21 PM
Actually, some time after I had posted, I saw that you wanted a 7 bladed modern submarine prop!
That would be a very tall order to make. Best to buy that one commercially!
 
David
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on April 24, 2013, 09:54:15 PM
The slightly bigger sister ship has "unfortunately" stolen quite a lot of time and therefor not much have been done the last month...

(http://s14.postimg.org/ne5f1z3ep/IMG_1287.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
I have received a few parts for the rudders and also the main-engine. But as for now the submarine will be on hold for a few more weeks...
cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 01, 2013, 10:47:59 AM
Hello,


Finally my interest for the submarine has come back!
With new knowledge and courage, the project will carry on.
To begin with:
New pistons will be manufactured with deeper seal cuts and stronger fixation to the threaded rod, the tanks will be shortened by a few cm each to make extra room for the rudder-servos and the molding of the aft will begin.


I'm glad to be back in business!
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 12, 2013, 11:36:52 PM
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2mhssjb.jpg)


(http://i39.tinypic.com/al0jrp.jpg)


(http://i42.tinypic.com/2r27lgp.jpg)


(http://i44.tinypic.com/6e409l.jpg)


The servos is not fastened yet, either small screws will be used or they will simply be glued onto one of the "discs". I do prefer the screws but will it hold, remains yet to be seen..
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2ecm4qu.jpg)


The main-engine will be moved further to the aft, about 1-2cm will be gained.
And the mount will probably be re-made into something a bit better looking.
(http://i44.tinypic.com/14yan46.jpg)


(http://i40.tinypic.com/2uhxo45.jpg)


Next up will be the renovation of the broken piston, I have decided to use the old pistons and instead remake the mounting to the geared rod.
This time much more strong and reliable.
What i did realize, after undergoing a semester in solidmechanics, was that the mount I had made, by drilling a hole in the rod, severely damaged the rod. (quite obvious when you think about it, but it didnt made me worried at the time...)


Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 15, 2013, 12:15:24 AM
So, the broken piston is now fixed, picture coming soon.
Also, the tanks are sealed and actually work.
Slight issue though, as for now (with the current aft engine mount) the tanks only can take in 0,6 liters each.
And I would like to be able to have 1 liter in each. For every cm i can gain it will give 0,0252 liters. Roughly 15cm/tank extra will be needed.
Either I buy myself a longer pvc-pipe and extend the sub. Or I could remake one piston with two rods to make them go besides the other pistons rod. Which would require 1 more gear.
Because making another solution for the rudder rods is just not an option at the moment and neither is relocating the aft engine. (which at maximum would give me 15cm).

As for now though, I will simply put that issue to the side and focus on making the the sub watertight and begin the crafting of the hull.
*EDIT*
When thinking about it, 1,2 liters isn't that bad after all. Or am I wrong? I suppose it depends on where I would like the waterline to be... {:-{
Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on November 15, 2013, 08:53:42 AM
Yes, you are right 1.2 l isn't too bad. I am not that sure of the size of the sub but for most subs that you can carry easily, that could well be enough.

As you say it depends on the waterline. Also if you keep the displacement (i.e volume) of the superstructure down that will help.

So probably best to go with what you have.

Inserting extra sections is usually the sign of a desperate engineer!

David
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 15, 2013, 10:05:43 AM
So probably best to go with what you have.

Inserting extra sections is usually the sign of a desperate engineer!

David
Hehe %%
Thanks for the response, somewhat more comfortable about cutting the tanks and rods now  :-)


The floating capacity of the sub is roughly 12 liters. An additional 0.5-1 liter can be added combined with the aft and stern, which gives me the possibility to put an additional 1kg ballast as far below the waterline as possible to lower the center of mass.


As you mentioned, the superstructure must be as light as possible, especially the one above the waterline.


The repaired piston. I added one more disc above a circular ring(?) fixed to the rod. The ring is fixed to the piston with a small pin, which can be seen in one of the holes.
In the background, epoxy, lots of it. "not for structural purposes".. %)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/25zgqw3.jpg)
Cheers

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on November 15, 2013, 10:34:00 AM
You should be able to calculate quite accurately the displacement of the items that sit above the waterline and then see if that works with your tanks volume.

The wet sections can be calculated by laying out the area of the superstructure that projects above the waterline and assuming a material thickness to obtain volume. In truth the material thickness may vary a little especially if it's a hand laid laminate, however you should get within 10-15% of the true figure, and that IMo is good enough to see that you're on the right track.

If you use a good quality epoxy laminate for the upper structure, a laminate thickness of about 1mm is perfectly acceptable, and for smaller structures like the conning tower 0.5mm would be adequate, although it would require careful work to make a strong composite at those thicknesses. If you use polyester resin for a laminate, I would double those figures, as polyester resin is weaker and more prone to warping than epoxy therefore requires a bit more bulk.

Some hull shapes can be very tricky to layout, e.g. WWII type subs with their complex superstructures which curve and weave around. Modern subs tend to have simpler geometry, so that makes life easier.


Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on November 15, 2013, 12:13:47 PM
You could use laminate but  you could also consider a 100% scale material - sheet steel in the form of tinplate.

Advantages are:
- best strength and weight for a material with minimum displacement.
- from  a scale point of view, free flooding holes look much more realistic than glass fibre  which looks too thick.
- can be easily cut (old scissors) and soft soldered (use a +50 watt iron)
- would fit neatly into your college workshop sessions.
- quite good for WW1 &  2 subs with simple curves (not easy with compound curves e.g modern nukes.)
- Your original drawing shows  a fairly simple superstructure with a relatively simple fin (conning tower) - so it may be suitable.

Disadvantages:
- Can be a seen as a little bit "retro" for a modelling material. Although subs are a special category and I see a recent article in "Model Boats" restating the benefits of tinplate.
- You can't get moulded surface detail.
- Sheet tinplate is less easy to obtain than you may think. (Biscuit tins have long gone. You can get thin sheets from RS Components. ) If you can't get tinplate you can use brass sheet - more expensive but can give stunningly realistic appearance . (Reference my fellow club member Dave J's models)

So get a bit of tin and a soldering iron and give it a go!

David
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on November 15, 2013, 02:37:35 PM
Although low in displacement, steel and brass are very dense- at least four times the density of an equivalent thickness laminate. I'd be thinking anything less than 0.5mm thick sheet could be tricky to work with, so that would be at least twice the weight of a 1mm GRP laminate and considerably less rigid. Aluminium is much lighter, but much weaker and difficult to solder, although you can epoxy it together.

So be mindful of top weight causing stability issues if things are getting a bit marginal.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 15, 2013, 03:24:52 PM
Thanks for all the advises! :-)

I will get going with the calculations of upper structure volume/mass.

The sheet steel is an interesting solution, but unfortunately I don't posses any experience..
Which me and a friend do have, when it comes to epoxy laminate and carbon fibre (which I wont use but similar process).

I'm leaning towards some type of epoxy laminate for the structure above waterline.
With "plugs" and molds. A bit time consuming, but worth it.
Probably epoxy laminate for the aft and stern sections too.

Will get going with the molding in the weekend, primarily the aft and stern.
Awaiting an order from engel-modellbau with rubber bellows and u-joint couplings. When it arrives, I will be able to finish the "end-cap" and then do some water testing. Either reuse the old rc-kit from the old submarine or buy a new one for the testing.

Have a great weekend!

Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 16, 2013, 02:39:55 PM

I would like to once again announce a big thanks to GPA-Plast in Hjärnarp Sweden and Carlsson & Möller in Helsingborg Sweden, for their help with providing material for the submarine and thereby helping me keeping the costs down.

 Cheers!
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 24, 2013, 12:10:25 AM
Hello,
Did not get much done last weekend, but this weekend looks promising!
Foam core for the plug
(http://i44.tinypic.com/1zpsdmo.jpg)


Some putty(?) on
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2ngheti.jpg)


Lots of leftover epoxy that will be sanded of/refinforced with more..
A bit worried about the rubber bellows, they fit perfect on the pushrods but a bit to loose on the brass pipes.
How do you all fit them secure? At the moment I have secured them with cable ties..
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2gvpjx3.jpg)


(http://i42.tinypic.com/fa3imp.jpg)


(http://i39.tinypic.com/2mweyvn.jpg)


Had a left over brasspipe that fits perfect as protection.
(http://i42.tinypic.com/noczro.jpg)


hehe :-)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/23k8yld.jpg)


hose clamp, will it be enough you think? (Got these at all connections with water in/out-lets)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/rtl534.jpg)


I will continue with the "plugs" for the molds tomorrow.
Cheers

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on November 24, 2013, 07:46:06 AM
The bellows will be fine, clamped with cable ties. If the bellows are a loose fit, slide some plastic or silicone tubing over the brass tube before you slide the bellows over. Then put the cable tie.

Your hose clamps are more than enough, I would think.

David
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 24, 2013, 05:33:50 PM
The bellows will be fine, clamped with cable ties. If the bellows are a loose fit, slide some plastic or silicone tubing over the brass tube before you slide the bellows over. Then put the cable tie.

Your hose clamps are more than enough, I would think.
Ok, very good! Thank you for the advice! Then I only need to add some more grease in the shaft seal and for the pushrods in the brass pipes before water testing!


Besides continuing with the stern and aft molding, next up will be to design the electronics.


Cheers

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 27, 2013, 09:26:34 AM

Hello,
Placed an order on two of these yesterday, one for the tanks and one for the propulsion.
Brushed ESC with reverse.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320A-7-2V-16V-Bidirectional-Brushed-ESC-Speed-Controller-RC-Car-Truck-Boat-HE-/360796473708?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:3160(http://i40.tinypic.com/2wekv13.jpg)
Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on November 27, 2013, 11:30:34 AM
 That's a very good price for a speed controller which can control 320 Amps! You should have quite a built in safety factor!

David
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Colin Bishop on November 27, 2013, 11:33:41 AM
320 amps through those little wires??????

Colin
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on November 27, 2013, 11:39:29 AM
That's probably momentary current (e.g. fraction of a second, when starting up). Take a zero off the end for something closer to the truth for continuous output.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 28, 2013, 12:30:41 PM
That's probably momentary current (e.g. fraction of a second, when starting up). Take a zero off the end for something closer to the truth for continuous output.
Spot on  :-)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 29, 2013, 08:44:47 AM
I've been looking for a suitable rc-system (sender and receiver), 6-channel, 27-40MHz at a maximum price of 100€~, without success..

Any tips?


Cheers  ok2
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Davy1 on November 29, 2013, 09:07:36 AM
I am not sure of the situation in Sweden, but in the UK new equipment for these frequencies is very rare because of the arrival of 2.4Ghz.The model submariners dilemna!

With that in mind and with your budget you are probably best to look for second hand. There have been some bargains on ebay as people have upgraded but I have not seen much recently.

Lets see what other people have to say and good hunting!

David
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 29, 2013, 09:27:53 AM
I am not sure of the situation in Sweden, but in the UK new equipment for these frequencies is very rare because of the arrival of 2.4Ghz.The model submariners dilemna!

With that in mind and with your budget you are probably best to look for second hand. There have been some bargains on ebay as people have upgraded but I have not seen much recently.

You'r quite right, the market is overflowing with 2.4GHz..
There are some at ebay. Ebay will probably be the answer of my question.





Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: hollowhornbear on November 29, 2013, 11:10:17 AM
How about this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanwa-Rc-8-channel-Remote-Control-RD8000-40-MHz-RX-851-Receiver-Mode-1-/321258805993?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4acc845ae9 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanwa-Rc-8-channel-Remote-Control-RD8000-40-MHz-RX-851-Receiver-Mode-1-/321258805993?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4acc845ae9)

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on November 29, 2013, 11:37:56 AM
That's a very good set. Before the advent of 2.4ghz I used a RD6000 on 35mhz for aeroplanes, which served me very well. The only thing I would say, is that the control layout may not suit your boat very well, as it looks like all the functions beyond the sticks are switched. Generally we require a set with a rotary or linear slider for some of our controls. Older analogue sets could be adapted to suit, but a lot of the later digital sets are bit more restrictive. So it pays in the long run to look carefully at the set you purchase.

Two or three years ago many suppliers were clearing their stock of 40mhz kit, and there was a lot of very good equipment going for what must have been close to cost price. However those days are now gone, and therefore secondhand units off ebay and small ads are the best way to get cut price radio on the lower frequency bands. I do find that receivers tend to be easier to get hold of than transmitters.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 29, 2013, 12:39:39 PM
How about this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanwa-Rc-8-channel-Remote-Control-RD8000-40-MHz-RX-851-Receiver-Mode-1-/321258805993?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4acc845ae9 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanwa-Rc-8-channel-Remote-Control-RD8000-40-MHz-RX-851-Receiver-Mode-1-/321258805993?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4acc845ae9)
Yes, I saw that one.
That's a very good set. Before the advent of 2.4ghz I used a RD6000 on 35mhz for aeroplanes, which served me very well. The only thing I would say, is that the control layout may not suit your boat very well, as it looks like all the functions beyond the sticks are switched. Generally we require a set with a rotary or linear slider for some of our controls. Older analogue sets could be adapted to suit, but a lot of the later digital sets are bit more restrictive. So it pays in the long run to look carefully at the set you purchase.
Thanks for the input! I think I will place an order on the Sanwa. Will give it some thought first.

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on December 16, 2013, 01:08:44 PM
Hello,


I've received my ESCs and waiting for the Sanwa RC-unit.


A few days of finals in school left, but I'm planing on building during the holidays!


Happy holidays everyone!
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: salmon on December 17, 2013, 01:58:15 AM
I might be too late, but would this work?
http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/radios-transmitters-and-receivers/wfly-6-channel-transmitter-40mhz.html (http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/radios-transmitters-and-receivers/wfly-6-channel-transmitter-40mhz.html)


I think they might have an 8 channel
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on December 17, 2013, 08:27:50 AM
I might be too late, but would this work?
http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/radios-transmitters-and-receivers/wfly-6-channel-transmitter-40mhz.html (http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/radios-transmitters-and-receivers/wfly-6-channel-transmitter-40mhz.html)


I think they might have an 8 channel


Hmm, yes it would. But its roughly the same price and I've already ordered the Sanwa.
But thank you anyway  :}
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on January 05, 2014, 01:23:09 AM
A few meatballs later..
I'm back!  :-)


Tomorrow soldering will begin. Santa stopped by my place, dressed in a DHL costume, and handed over a brand new RC unit from Sanwa which thus far works well (haven't tried all the cool features yet..).
A proper update with pictures and all will be uploaded tomorrow, but here is a teaser..
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2eaifdu.jpg)


Cheers!
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 27, 2014, 12:04:44 PM
Well Hello hello hello everyone,
Tomorrow soldering will begin.
quite optimistic there... But now I've finally had some progress!

(http://s16.postimg.org/ppdhv2iz9/IMG_0021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
hehe

(http://s14.postimg.org/51geost5d/IMG_0022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)

(http://s27.postimg.org/rxci98bf7/IMG_0023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)

(http://s30.postimg.org/p821l2yr5/IMG_0024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)

(http://s8.postimg.org/cnajb554l/IMG_2343.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)

(http://s8.postimg.org/fb4kz8njp/IMG_2342.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)


uploaded some video too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tKpzpA1v1k&feature=youtu.be



Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 27, 2014, 11:25:37 PM
Uploaded a new one instead:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGdqYy8CgRA&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGdqYy8CgRA&feature=youtu.be)


Cheers :-)


*EDIT*
I would like any good advices on how to solve the servos "twitching". At the moment 2 channels are combined with a V-tail mixer, the two outgoing channels from the v-tail mixer is then split too 4 servos. I suspect the V-tail combined with splitting is what makes them twitching. There is an built-in V-tail solution in the radio which I will try to explore further.



Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: derekwarner on March 28, 2014, 01:11:22 AM
SPB...........all I can see are RED wires & BROWN wires  :o & lots of cable ties........

I hope you have a good electrical schematic & a multimeter........ :D .....

Am sure one of the more experienced electrons type members will assist with the servo twitching..........my only thought is to run the servo looms away from that RED & BROWN spagetti >>:-( of induced gauss......Derek
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 28, 2014, 01:28:41 AM
SPB...........all I can see are RED wires & BROWN wires  :o & lots of cable ties........

I hope you have a good electrical schematic & a multimeter........ :D .....

Am sure one of the more experienced electrons type members will assist with the servo twitching..........my only thought is to run the servo looms away from that RED & BROWN spagetti >>:-( of induced gauss......Derek
Hehe, I know, not very tidy.. Red and black they are  ok2
The best way for me to get a working sub with my knowledge, at this very moment. Looking forward in time there may be some androino-solutions (mini computer, like rasberry pi)
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 28, 2014, 03:49:04 PM
Can be a number of reasons for the twitching servo's.

Are they being powered via a BEC or voltage regulator, or via a separate battery pack?
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 28, 2014, 04:59:39 PM
Can be a number of reasons for the twitching servo's.Are they being powered via a BEC or voltage regulator, or via a separate battery pack?

Hmm, neither bec or voltage regulator. The servos is just plugged into the receiver which in it self is powered by 6V battery-pack.
I read about it now and from what I could figure out I should use a BEC for the servos.
It's likely that the "twitching" is because of lack of "power", am I correct?
I'm a bit of a newbie in this department and obviously haven't learned enough about it, yet.


Cheers
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 28, 2014, 05:19:30 PM
Not exactly. No necessity to use BEC, most of us do to avoid having to fit another pack of batteries, but far from essential. Sometimes a BEC can be inadequate for the current drawn, and that can cause issues, so that's why I was asking.

As you are powering them direct from a 6volt battery, current draw shouldn't be an issue. it's possible, although unlikely that you may be overpowering the servos, as a freshly charged 6 volt battery can push well over 6 volts, and beyond that figure, many servos can start to complain.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 28, 2014, 05:26:18 PM
[size=78%]As you are powering them direct from a 6volt battery, current draw shouldn't be an issue. it's possible, although unlikely that you may be overpowering the servos, as a freshly charged 6 volt battery can push well over 6 volts, and beyond that figure, many servos can start to complain.[/size]
I doubt that is the issue though, although I will hava it in thought. I suspect that it is the V-tailmixer that is causing the twitching. Because, when I only use the servos directly plugged in to the receiver with a split-cable (4 servos, 2 channels - X-rudder) it works fine, except its the wrong combination. Unfortunately I'm in need of some sort of mixing. Though this maybe can be solved with the built in function in the RC-controller. Will try to have a look at that during the weekend.


Thank you for your time  :-)


Cheers

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on March 28, 2014, 06:43:54 PM
Sometimes there can be an issue of the output signal level of the receiver being too low for the mixer, and the latter requiring some kind of buffering to bring up the level.

Mixing in the transmitter works but you run into problems when you want to add things like pitch controllers/levellers etc.

You can also purchase levellers with x-tail mixers built in. Not cheap though.
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on March 31, 2014, 11:30:54 PM
You can also purchase levellers with x-tail mixers built in. Not cheap though.
Just now found this one: (Cant remember seeing it before)
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2645
Well, its not cheap considering I'm so close to finding a solution..

Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: Subculture on April 01, 2014, 10:29:32 AM
Agreed not cheap, but that will be a good unit. Wrong link BTW- http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_87&products_id=2192
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: U3503 on April 01, 2014, 10:44:55 AM
Do you know Momo Sauerland (http://momo.tsmw.de/cms/index.php?id=11)
 better and cheaper than Engel
They are specialist for sub-electronics. 
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on April 01, 2014, 11:11:33 AM
Agreed not cheap, but that will be a good unit. Wrong link BTW- http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_87&products_id=2192 (http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_87&products_id=2192)
Okey, I see now. I wondered why it was 4 times cheaper than the last time I checked for a similar device... :((


Do you know Momo Sauerland (http://momo.tsmw.de/cms/index.php?id=11)
 better and cheaper than Engel
They are specialist for sub-electronics. 
I do not, but I will look it up!  O0


Cheers
Title: A fresh start
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 11, 2017, 04:00:58 PM
hello everyone,
I’m back in business!
It has not gone a month without me having thoughts on how to finish the project and simotaneously modernize the sub.
When a dear friend of mine finished the construction of his 3D-printer it became obvious how I will create the missing parts.
And while I’m at it I will integrate all systems of the sub with the help of an Arduino.
I’ve also had thoughts about creating the rc-transmitter as an tow-array thing..
The stern part will be a bit more complex with a watertight hatch enabling easy access to the electronics when turning the electronics on/off.


(http://i65.tinypic.com/2e2qtf4.jpg)


(http://i65.tinypic.com/2qx6deg.jpg)


(http://i63.tinypic.com/2ir3rti.jpg)




More to come!


Cheers



Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: U3503 on November 19, 2017, 11:58:07 AM
http://www.vimmerbytidning.se/nyheter/vimmerby/manga-fina-modellbatar-i-simbassangen-20171016/ (http://www.vimmerbytidning.se/nyheter/vimmerby/manga-fina-modellbatar-i-simbassangen-20171016/)

titta här / look here
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 19, 2017, 01:12:40 PM
http://www.vimmerbytidning.se/nyheter/vimmerby/manga-fina-modellbatar-i-simbassangen-20171016/ (http://www.vimmerbytidning.se/nyheter/vimmerby/manga-fina-modellbatar-i-simbassangen-20171016/)

titta här / look here


Thank you for the link, interesting!  :-))
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 23, 2017, 11:15:20 PM

Did some modelling today.
The front will be added with one extension epoxi-glued to the front end of the ordinary tube.
This front part will have a lid which is secured with 8 M5 screws + nuts.
And lastely one outerskin hull.


I have a lot left to do with fasteners and how the front end will connect to the top hull..
Below is a preview,


(http://i63.tinypic.com/2mhx2zb.png)


(http://i65.tinypic.com/2ch97vt.png)


Hopefully I will get some printing done this weekend  O0
Title: Re: HMS Lundon
Post by: SwedishProjectBuilder on November 26, 2017, 03:57:44 PM

 O0

(http://i65.tinypic.com/14ttvs5.jpg)