Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: goBulawayo on August 24, 2012, 10:10:58 am
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Hi All, some years ago I bought what you see of this yacht at a boot sale, it looks really homemade, possibly to a known plan but maybe not. The hull is quite bumpy like its made of papier mache or such, coated with paint and a gloss coat. I wonder if anyone has any thoughts as to what design it may be and some suggestions on what rigging layout would have looked like. It appears it may have been operated by one of those big vanes on the back? It has no access to the inside so all operating equipment must have been on deck. I see it has some numbers down the deck near the stern which I assumed are for setting the sail to wind conditions? I would love to re-rig this even if only for display (or to float in our pond) and welcome any suggestions / guidance in this respect. I plan on sanding down the hull and re-coating it too with a new name (undecided as yet) - Is there some sort of calculation to work out how tall the mast would be?
Thanks
Wayne
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2233.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2232.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2234.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2235.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2236-1.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2237.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2238.jpg/img]
[img]http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2239.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2241.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2243.jpg)
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Nice looking hull ! You haven't given the dimensions though, length, height and width which would help in identification but it looks suspiciously like a 36R from the length of that keel.... I'd also get in touch with Russell Potts at the Vintage Model Yacht Group here.... http://www.vmyg.org.uk/ (http://www.vmyg.org.uk/) ... who is the expert in these matters and helps with old yacht identification... and keep posting as you go along. :-)
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Length 915mm, width 225mm, deck to u/s of keel 270mm
Thanks
Wayne
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Yes Wayne, that's a help and it looks like it is definitely a 36R Class yacht, for which the rules are that the hull must fit within a box 37 inches X 11 inches X 9 inches I would still get in touch with Russell Potts as I have no doubt he may be able to put you in touch with some original plans or give you sufficient information to restore it. :-)
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Thanks Artistmike
I have contacted Mr. Potts, will see what he can add
Regards
Wayne
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Well it seems this yacht is not really worth trying to restore, it is way under weight for its type and it appears the hull "planking" is strips of cardboard laid over wooden ribbing, probably why its so light. I think I will wait till I can build my stand off scale model of "force 8" a Lavranos design built in Rhodesia (where I was born).
Wayne
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That's a shame Wayne, the thing about the 36R class is that it is what is known as a "Developmental Class", which really means that within certain parameters, the builder is free to try anything at all ..... This rule has lead to some very interesting developments over time but also some somewhat strange results produced by home builders, presumably of which yours is one. That doesn't mean it's not worth restoration but probably more as an academic exercise....
The Force 8 project sounds interesting, let us know how it goes, there's a few sailors here who will be very interested ..... :-)
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It's not a Vic Smeed "Krispie", is it? I think that was a 36R built from cereal packet cardboard. Design wasa published in MB.
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It's not a Vic Smeed "Krispie", is it? I think that was a 36R built from cereal packet cardboard. Design wasa published in MB.
Hey who knows it could well be - Anyway for now it has been packed away again.
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That's a shame Wayne, the thing about the 36R class is that it is what is known as a "Developmental Class", which really means that within certain parameters, the builder is free to try anything at all ..... This rule has lead to some very interesting developments over time but also some somewhat strange results produced by home builders, presumably of which yours is one. That doesn't mean it's not worth restoration but probably more as an academic exercise....
The Force 8 project sounds interesting, let us know how it goes, there's a few sailors here who will be very interested ..... :-)
Thanks Artistmike, for now it has been packed away again. I will start a thread on Force 8 once I get the plans - I cannot post them here but I will provide a link to some photos of the yacht as she is today.
Wayne
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id not dismiss the model as not worth the effort , ive several model yachts that although dont fall into a particular racing catogry are still being rebuilt for my own enjoyment . messers b&q are a good source of metre lengths of alloy tube suitable for masts / booms and jibs
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Thanks triumphjon, I will certainly have a look at b&q - Whilst I was never going to rebuild the yacht to race seriously I suppose it would be an idea to rebuild for the experience/enjoyment. I will have a look. I have boom and jib boom already - How would one attach the mast to the deck as there is no hole through the deck - I assumed that a slot was cut in the bottom of the mast and it was pinned through the brass fitting just forward of the carry handle? How would one fix the stays to the mast?
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I assumed that a slot was cut in the bottom of the mast and it was pinned through the brass fitting just forward of the carry handle?
I agree
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Can anyone suggest any books that would help me with building a scale model yacht, covering things like how to build the hull (the plans I am getting provide hull profiles), how to fix stays to the mast / deck, what wire to use for the stays, how to attach the wire to the bottlescrews etc, in fact any guidance at all - Websites covering the above would be good too - I am slowly making my way through the yachts and sail section of this forum too.
Thanks, Wayne
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How would one fix the stays to the mast?
You need to attach eyes to/or through the mast.
You probably need a mast head, to attach a back stay. A forestay can be omitted as the jib sail can take the strain.
You may also need spreaders attached to the mast, this will add strength and stability.
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Books
http://shop.traplet.com/product.aspx?c=296
Specifically for racing boats, and very technical level of detail.
http://shop.traplet.com/product.aspx?c=297
This is about scale sail boats, but a lot of information is transferable to any sail boat. Less technical and more user friendly.
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Thanks tigertiger
Wayne
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For a stand off scale RC yacht, is the rigging of wire or thread? How is it 'tied' to the various fittings such as the bottle screws?
Thanks
Wayne
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For a stand off scale RC yacht, is the rigging of wire or thread? How is it 'tied' to the various fittings such as the bottle screws?
Thanks
Wayne
The composition of standing rigging usually depends on the size of the boat. Items like shrouds do need to be tight in order to help support the mast against side forces when the wind is blowing and wire has the advantage that it doesn't stretch as some threads can under tension and especially when wet, which would of course be a problem. This obviously is more noticeable, the bigger the boat.
Usually the wire has ends that are crimped to simple hooks or eyelets that are easily attached to the turnbuckles and can thus be tensioned by them or even removed for transportation. if necessary. I find a good source of wire is the fishing tackle shop, Anglers use wires of various thicknesses and strengths and often these are plastic coated and aesthetically right for the job.
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As your model is made of wood and card, I recommend Dacron thread for both running and standing rigging.
Dacron will not stretch, important. I use 25Kg for running rigging and 50+kg for standing rigging.
You can tie one end to an eyelet and the other end can be tensioned/adjusted by using bowsies. Bowsies can are a small strip of material with a line of 3 holes in them, usually plastic. You can make these yourself or buy them.
One source for Dacron, bowsies and more is sailsetc.com, I have used them a lot.
Other sources include Housemartin sails. Sorry I don't have contact details, but I am sure others will chip in with information.
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Thanks tigertiger, where do you source the dacron, I looked at ebay but their flourescent colours are not what I would use, I also did not find much 25kg or 50kg+ dacron.
As for bowsies, I was looking at using bottlescrews (turnbuckles) but I see in the remains of the rigging I have that there are a few homemade bowsies including one from a small bottle top!
Wayne
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Cornwall Model Boats has this........ :-)
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk%2findex.html&WD=dacron&PN=yacht_fittings.html%23aG2413#aG2413 (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk%2findex.html&WD=dacron&PN=yacht_fittings.html%23aG2413#aG2413)
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I get my Dacron line from sailsetc.com
D25, D40 and D60 on this page http://sailsetc.com/fitrig.htm
I think eyelts and bowsies are on this page too.
Dacron sailcloth on this page, as are eylets and the eyelet tool
http://sailsetc.com/sailmakingmaterials.htm#
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Thanks tigertiger, that's a more affordable price too - I can see I will be ordering a lot of stuff both for this build and my 'Force 8' build - still not sure how to secure the dacron to stays etc, do you just tie a knot in it? Perhaps someone could post a few photos of such things please.
Wayne
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Knot to the mast head, but you need some anchor point to tie to.
You can run the other end through a snap link, and adjust with a bowsie. The snap link is then attached to the metal strip with holes along the side of the deck on your model.
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It's definately a Krispie, I remember seing it in Model Boats around 1976 I think. The cardboard stip construction is a dead giveaway.
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As it's very likely to be a Krispie, you may like to know that Vic Smeeds plans for that are still available from MyHobbyStore here ...... http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17214/krispie-mm1404 (http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17214/krispie-mm1404) One of the members may well have a copy too so it maybe worth putting a wanted in the sales section?
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Oh and one other thing, the normal practice for the forestay is for the leading edge of the jib, the luff, to have a pocket through which the forestay runs, the jib itself is then lightly tensioned by a topping lift. It's not really good practice to put the full strain of the stay on the sail itself.
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You may well find this a good source of a lot of information regarding rigging model yachts. www.theamya.org/my/138-SampleWebEdition0801.pdf (http://www.theamya.org/my/138-SampleWebEdition0801.pdf) It's quite a big file to download but there's some good stuff there which will apply to both of your projects ..........
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As it's very likely to be a Krispie, you may like to know that Vic Smeeds plans for that are still available from MyHobbyStore here ...... http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17214/krispie-mm1404 (http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17214/krispie-mm1404) One of the members may well have a copy too so it maybe worth putting a wanted in the sales section?
Thanks I have been in touch with someone who may have a copy still, otherwise I will ask in the wanted section
Wayne
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Boy is this gonna take a lot of P38 to smooth off the hull, anyway bit at a time and I should get there -
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Many thanks to martin-R who has sent me a copy of the crispie plans and this is definitely my boat - Now to find someone who sells 13mm aluminium tubing in a length around 1625mm and I can start rebuilding the rigging.
Wayne
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Boy is this gonna take a lot of P38 to smooth off the hull, anyway bit at a time and I should get there -
MMMM Maybee you SHOULD read the Painting thread on the Paint section and Use the fille rI reccomend FAR SUPERIOR than old Hat P38
Dave
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Thanks Dave, will do
Wayne
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re 13mm alloy tubing , b& q sell it in 1 meter lengths , two lengths or the upper of a slightly smaller diameter to be a sliding fit inside the lower section held in place with a small pin or araldite ? jon
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Try Sail tec or Housemartins sails
Dave
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Cool housemartins have an 11.1mm tube of 1800mm long which will be good enough I reckon
Thanks
Wayne
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Hi All, what are the following three books like? Do they duplicate in any way the info in "Introducing Radio Control Model Boats, Vic Smeed" and
"Boat Modelling, Vic Smeed" which I have already.
Radio Control in Model Boats, John Cundell
Introduction to Marine Modelling, Chris Jackson
Basics of Model Boats, Glynn Guest
Thanks
Wayne
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Hi All, what are the following three books like? Do they duplicate in any way the info in "Introducing Radio Control Model Boats, Vic Smeed" and
"Boat Modelling, Vic Smeed" which I have already.
Radio Control in Model Boats, John Cundell
Introduction to Marine Modelling, Chris Jackson
Basics of Model Boats, Glynn Guest
There are books specifically for RC sailboats. The others may not cover sailboats adequately and will contain information about motors that you may not be interested in.
Check out Traplet.com for books on sailboats. You may then find some of these titles cheaper on Amazon.
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Hi wayne.
The book you want to get is model racing yacht construction by R Griffin despite what the title says it covers everthing from fittings names, where they go, and make your
own. vane gears, radio set up, masts booms rigging sails it will answer all your question simply clearly and concisely with loads of diagrams, sketches and pix.
In a way it goes back to the day when you made everything yourself
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Racing-Construction-Publications-technical-publication/dp/0852426720
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Racing-Yacht-Construction-Model-a-R-Griffin-/200816503830?pt=Fiction&hash=item2ec198ac16
What you have got is a yacht with whats called a deck steped mast usually with this kind of arrangement they use the fine braided wire for the shrouds and fixed the to the
chain plates with turnbuckles which allows you to put the tension on the shrouds. Note. the yacht is called krispie as the diagonal planking is from the rice krispie box there
was another model wich used gummed strip paper planking. I remember back in the 70`s making chain plates from 1/2in ali angle al messers B&Q and brass brazing rod
to make the hooks. You may find that large snap link fishing swivels are ideal to make the kicking strap and to attach the jib boom to the deck.
If your mast is going to be a diy job intrested to see what solution you come up with to attach the mainsail to the mast.
Frank.
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Hi Frank
I will get a copy of that book right away thanks -
I have acquired a set of the krispie plans so I hope to build the mast as per the plans, though they are a little vague (to me anyway) - I think I will use an ali mast though
Wayne
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If your mast is going to be a diy job intrested to see what solution you come up with to attach the mainsail to the mast.
Hi Frank - I have the original boom that came with this model, which has a pin fitted for the gooseneck, I will make up the gooseneck support as per the krispie instructions and re-use the original boom which is made from ali tubing with the ends flattened and drilled for the sheets etc
wayne
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Hi all, spent the afternoon making a stand for the krispie and finally pulled off all the rigging and bits. Have sanded off the deck a bit though it needs some more work. I had a bit of P38 left over so applied that to the hull, need to buy some more or some of the stuff suggested under the painting thread, though its quite heavy on my budget.
Wayne
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF2035_zpsc5c766b8.jpg)
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Hi Guys, time for your guidance again please.
This Krispie was obviously vane operated before, I would now like to make it RC - I would prefer not to cut into the deck, so is it feasible to put all the equipment on the deck? At best I could cut a smallish bit out of the deck between mast and rudder and built some sort of superstructure, I could then put the Rx and batteries in there, not sure I could manage putting the rudder servo in there though, so is there a waterproof one available as well as a water proof drum servo for the sail rigging? I could then run a continous line along the deck with two attachments for the jib and main sail - Any thoughts and suggestions welcome please -
Also how do I change the title of this thread to "36R Krispie"?
Cheers, Wayne
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Sorry I dont think this will work simply as the height of the sail winch servo is far to big,cut the deck I'm afraid and mount all the running rigging underneath as everyone else does.
Dave
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Hi Guys, time for your guidance again please.
This Krispie was obviously vane operated before, I would now like to make it RC - I would prefer not to cut into the deck, so is it feasible to put all the equipment on the deck? At best I could cut a smallish bit out of the deck between mast and rudder and built some sort of superstructure, I could then put the Rx and batteries in there, not sure I could manage putting the rudder servo in there though, so is there a waterproof one available as well as a water proof drum servo for the sail rigging? I could then run a continous line along the deck with two attachments for the jib and main sail - Any thoughts and suggestions welcome please -
Also how do I change the title of this thread to "36R Krispie"?
Cheers, Wayne
Wayne, cannot help with the thread name, sorry...
Considering that this is a 900 - 1000mm boat you really need to put the RC gear below deck. It would look AWFUL all on deck as the structure you would need to build would be quite bulky and would likely interfere with the main boom as well.
If you have a choice, make the hatch reasonably central.
You have three winch choices as I see it:
a) an arm winch is simple if you have room below deck for the arm to swing
b) a drum winch below deck (something like this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20854__SW4805_4PA_Sailwinch_Servo_6_13kg_45g_0_70.html - comes in 4 turn and 6 turn variants)
c) a continuous loop winch either below completely deck or with winch below deck and the loop on deck (image below shows the aft end of such a setup - winch servo (EXI B1226 or similar) actually mounts through the deck - this is on a Hurricane 1000 - simple, works great) Highlight in the image is from another discussion on easy ways to make sheets adjustable....
First thing you need to work out is now much sheet travel you need (this is determined by distance from boom pivot to sheet attachment point) - for a 1 metre boat this is typically 250 - 280 mm
Rudder - mount it in a tray accessible through your new hatch
Radio gear and battery also in same central area
Hope this helps
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I agree totally with mrpenguin, if you're going to change this over to RC then it's best to follow well established installation methods as they (a) work and (b) will keep the boat dry inside. As I presume you can't remove the deck, the method mrpenguin has shown has to be the best to employ as the sheeting loop can easily be installed on deck and you'll have the minimum interference to the boat's superstructure. The steering servo could be installed under a hatch aft, covered in a simple sticky patch, which is the normal, cheap and simple way of keeping the water out of a racing boat like this.
By the time you're finished you should have a nice boat to sail there. .... :-)
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A thought
As a Krispie the structure of the hull will be very light.
This may include any frames. Compared with wood planking, the cardboard will have limited tensile strength and very limited compressive strength.
It is possible that the torque in a sail winch will tear itself out of the hull, or maybe even tear the boat apart.
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As a Krispie the structure of the hull will be very light. This may include any frames. Compared with wood planking, the cardboard will have limited tensile strength and very limited compressive strength.
I agree, one thing about opening the deck up is that it will be possible to see just how the thing has been constructed and maybe add some strengthening members. People who built this did the structural members in a variety of ways, some wood some lighter materials ..... without looking inside it's difficult to be sure...
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Thanks Mrpenguin - I will look into the various winches -
Thanks Artistnmike and tigertiger - I will start looking at cutting into the deck to check the construction, it will almost certainly need some beefing up inside - I may go with an arm winch all depends on how much access I can get to create the fixing points -
As the rudder tube runs all the way through the hull, I was wondering it it would work if I put the servo under the deck but ran the links to an arm fixed to the rudder tiller above the deck, say through sheet tubes, I have seen some in brass that come up through the deck about 10-15mm and curve around 90 degrees- This would mean the servo links would be some sort of thread and as I planned on having two connections between the servo and tiller, one would always be pulling on the tiller.
Wayne
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As the rudder tube runs all the way through the hull, I was wondering it it would work if I put the servo under the deck but ran the links to an arm fixed to the rudder tiller above the deck, say through sheet tubes, I have seen some in brass that come up through the deck about 10-15mm and curve around 90 degrees- This would mean the servo links would be some sort of thread and as I planned on having two connections between the servo and tiller, one would always be pulling on the tiller.
Wayne
In fact this is exactly what I've done with the pond yacht that I'm restoring, hiding the rudder servo in the hull and then running the lines controlling the rudder through sheet leads that I bought from Nylet onto the Braine quadrant. Yours should work fine the same way.... :-)
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Thanks Artistmike, I will look around for your restoration thread (assuming you have one of course)
Wayne
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Thanks Artistmike, I will look around for your restoration thread (assuming you have one of course)
Wayne
Hi Wayne, it's here http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38269.0 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38269.0) and I've just stuck a quick photo at the end of the thread to show you where the rudder controls come onto the deck..... :-)
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Hi everyone, progress is slow (or should I say non existent) anyway I did some sanding of the filler coat today, still a fair bit to be done.
I have a set of plans for the krispie, now I assume there was a build article with it? I wonder if anyone could help me out with a scan of the article please.
Many thanks
Wayne
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Hi goBulawayo
have you got the model boat magazines from December 1976 to March 1977 ? as they have the plan and build of Krispie in them
aye
john
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Hi Bluebird - I don't have those mags unfortunately - I will try to find copies -
Thanks, Wayne
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Hi ya Wayne, LOOK NO FURTHER :-) if you send me a personal message with your postal address via PM - I will kindly ask my beloved wife - if she will photocopy the articles - and send them to you from her work - as at the moment my printer/scanner isnt working properly - there arent any pics of the finished yacht - looks like its mainly written work about the build.
aye
John
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PM sent, many thanks, Wayne
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Hi ya, pm received - Monday it will be posted to you :-) hope that is okay.
aye
john
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Great super thanks Bluebird
Wayne
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Hi Wayne,I have sent construction details.I assume you now have plans from which you will see that Krispie can have 2 mast hieghts to suit either set of sails required.As you can see from my post I planked with .5mm ply and the hull has turned out very nicely and light. For R/C I decided to keep the rudder skeg,and as plans show removed deck deck panel from frame5 forward 5.5 ins X4ins to fit R/C gear.I retained centre deck beam into which I morticed the top of the fin to give rigidity.Fitted sail winch and rudder servo either side of fin,flexible control cables emerging through afterdeck to steering yoke and formed aluminium tubes from sail winch fore &aft through deck for jib &main sheets.Wickes have better Alli; tube thinner wall thanB&Q Iused 12mm for mast, 10mm for booms. Hull has been primed but codition prevent fish spraying; sails almost finished I will post pictures when done. regards sextant.
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A bit of progress on this yacht, I also have a set of sails for it -
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF3357.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm223/gubulawayo/DSCF3358.jpg)
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Hi all, I am about ready to add a new layer of fibreglass to this hull, just to strengthen it, what thickness cloth should I use? Assuming I should use cloth not mat?
Should I apply a layer of resin, let that set then apply resin and cloth? What make of resin is good to buy?
Thanks Wayne
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Would this kit be suitable (would not use the chopped strand)?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370586630625?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370586630625?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
Wayne