Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: Krishna on September 14, 2012, 09:05:23 am
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Good morning all respected Modelers.. it was my long dream to complete a big craft to my personal collection of RC boats.. and started making big crafts mostly above 3.5 to 4 feet span.. but this one is in to 5 feet length, because big is beautiful.. this one is 100% scratch built, and not used even a piece of plywood or balsa.. when completed the hull became stiffer than balsa hull but weighs half than a same sized balsa or wooden hull.. this craft is not a direct copy of MISTRAL itself.. but i added lots of my personal touch in the craft.. the first one is the elimination of the same second Stearn wheel situated at the top of the cabin.. and this craft is fully equipped with modern electronics include the CBW system.. this allow the captain to operate this craft with his day-today laptop as guidance instrument, navigation in all weather.. and for a luxury craft an open cabin is not a safe.. so added two heavy doors to cabin.. still this craft is not detailed fully.. i will complete those with a little time as now i am tied up in some commissioned model projects.. will add the LCD screens in cabin, and revolving seat for Captain with joy stick.. figures are in que and will complete as i gets time.. so here i starts.. so we will find that how easy to make a big beautiful craft .. this craft is not based on plans.. but i used only 3 views.. and scaled to 5 feet...
i started with 1 inch thick thermocol sheets.. (expanded polystrene)..
laminated with marine glue.. with weights.. you can simply see the size of the block as one floor tile spans 1 foot square each..
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block is well dried.. now time for scaling and shaping...
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basic sketch for every thing.. include engine noise and audio player..and started shaping..
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almost final shaping.. time for treatment..
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started tissue works.. all simple inexpensive tissues...
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after needed depth of tissue started putty works.. this time i thanking to Mr Vinod for the help of putty scribing, and he taught me a new simple way to get a neat finish with putty without adding ample of weights..
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putty work in progress...
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after the completion of the hull i started making props.. the props made by aluminum sheets from a vessel lid, both designed to rotate each other in phase.. because i know none of any commercial props can beat our own tested hand made props..
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now props are ready.. the outer tubes are ball point pen bodies with SS bushes each end..no water leaks and long time of life..fixation on craft..
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at any angle the panels are uniform.. if not this will act as a brake instead of steering control..
one of the unique feature of this craft is its bow pump.. so this craft can turn in 360 degree from stand still without any main propulsion.. so it is easy to turn.. always.. within her's length.. or half within her's length with reverse.. is a must for big crafts.. easy to control..so, here you can see the prop tube of the thrust pump at bow..
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pump motor.. is reworked 12 volt motor for greater torque than RPM.. simple installation with foam board.. and here is the switching.. means, up to a certain degree while turning, the thrust pump will not come in to play and craft will turn with natural rudders.. but when we apply full stick to any direction, the servo arm instantly arms the switches switching on the pump motor in desired direction.. so instant turn at all speeds..
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so, now time to test run.. the first test run with twin RS 550 motors became a great failure.. motors together dropped more than 25 Amps and motors were heating up like heating element of a heater.. instead of propelling the craft.. battery was exhausted within some countable seconds.. so disappointing.. so, turning back to the work table.. and i clearly realized the value of my own works on motor prop combinations.. so, painfully plucked all fittings and made the hull free.. and i realized one more thing that this lighter craft need not two shafts but need one.. the craft weighs about 4.7 Kilograms when complete despite her's sheer size.. and she is not a baby.. but she is bigger to me..
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now priamy coat of paint is complete.. and started working on deck.. used all foam board panels to depict the wooden deck..
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nearing completion.. see here how easy to work.. and nothing is used here as expensive or rare.. all handy materials.. hand rails were made of brass rods.. and stangenzes were made of foam board..
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railing is completed.. the main mast is taken from an old kit spare of sail boat..
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and two old mobile phone head phone cases came as induction ports.. now time to further works..
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the deck is painted in wooden brown, is a light matte paint..
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and after painting all port doors were attached with filter glass while adding L E D s to each slots..
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time to build super structure.. the main cabin first..
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almost complete..
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now painting time.. same wooden brown.. and instead of white hood i finished her with silver hood..
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now lights on.. all based on L E Ds.. because to save the battery..
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added all with high intensity L E Ds.. and action time.. i am a little sad, because the lake mouths are opened by authorities because of heavy rains last days to avoid flooding of the region.. so very less water..
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so with the helps of my Friends i turned to our traditional grad home pool.. so cramped space for this huge craft.. but no any other way..
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she is not a baby again.. she is bigger than me..
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and the beautiful scene at night... here once again .. see how easy to realize a big craft..!!so here is the action video.. the pool is not a good place for her... so will add a good long fast running video when my lake fills up...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXEUnSpwku0
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Nice work
Looks like a real "Gin Palace"
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It looks quite similar to the 'Triton' (bottom of this page http://modelboats.hobby-site.com/Range.html (http://modelboats.hobby-site.com/Range.html) )
All you need now on yours is a small Walkman playing a loud selection of party tunes.....
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thanks for the great inspirations respected modelers..
dodgy geezer.. Sir this one is already equipped with an MP3 player.. and still i have a lots to work on it.. and working on it..
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A challenge for you....
Dancing figures on the deck :)
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its really amazing how you you can literally throw a model together out of anything to hand , they are all so damm good as well :-))
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essex2visuvesi.. Sir.. its a little late.. for the idea.. oh.. if it was a little earlier.. still no worry.. will add a dancing girl at the forecastle of the boat.. with disco lights.. along with music.. a million thanks for the inspiration..
Stormbringer.. Sir.. you all living in a very advanced Country.. here i do not have any real stuffs to use.. and i am rich only in my ideas.. so only remedy is finding something myself.. but i am too happy that the big craft that i completed in 2008 still working perfectly today.. so thanking God.. and once again a million thanks for the inspiration..
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its really amazing how you you can literally throw a model together out of anything to hand , they are all so damm good as well :-))
Can you Imagine if he had been a presenter on blue peter lol
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Krishna, a couple of questions if I may?
You stuck the sheets of expanded polystyrene with glue - what sort, please?
The tissue paper is just tissue paper?
What's the material you used to smooth it with?
Thanks!
Andy
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dreadnought72.. Good morning Sir, the sheets are simple expanded polystyrene sheets that we found in TV and Refrigerator packages.. this one sheet almost spans in to 3 feet and about more than 1.5 feet wide.. this one sheet costs about Rs 20/- each here.. and some times i collect those sheets from nearest TV show rooms as they all put those sheets in fire to avoid mess.. but nowadays i purchases it with the help of my friends as it is too hard to walk.. the glue used to laminate the sheets is nothing extra ordinary, but simple white glue, or here known as PVA glue, or Poly Vinyl Alcohol based adhesive that used in wood industry.. here one of the greatest brand is named as Fevicol.. but when i makes longer crafts and for rough use i use the same brand glue, but in to MARINE.. Fevicol Marine is a same white glue, is based on some water proof medium.. i hope this may be the base of acrylic emulsion wall paints.. means after drying it will become water proof.. this is a grace to us in many means.. this glue also can be used in boats using IC engines , means we can apply two or three thin layers of glue, inside, then after proper drying this coating become stiff and strong,and acts as a protection against water entry and fuel damages.. 1 Kilogram of glue costs me here about 80 Rs/- as the seller gives me with discount, as he knows me from child hood..
the tissues.. the tissues that i am using in my works is simple face tissues, is very inexpensive 6 Rs/- for a packet, contains 100 numbers of tissues, in to 12 inches square, is absorbs diluted glue easily and instantly snugs in to the shape of the hull.. or wing.. or on anything.. a costly thick high quality tissue is not a good alternate as they wont absorb the glue easily and rips off when we apply.. the method of application is easy.. dilute the white glue ordinary as SH, or marine as MR, with water.. ratio is 25:75.. means 25 % glue and 75 % water.. then place the hull on a convenient place and place one tissue as spread over the desired place of the hull.. then take a flat brush of 2 inch at least, dip in glue, wipe excess glue and stoke over the tissue.. avoid repeated strokes, as the tissue ruptures.. we can apply 5 layers of tissue at one time.. and must leave to dry.. after drying we can repeat the proses up to 20 to 25 layers or more on bigger crafts.. for this we must leave a 2 mm margin when happing the hull at beginning.. because the tissue and putty takes a little thickness when we starts to work.. after proper drying we can sand the hull for smoothing with 120 grit sand paper, then apply a coat of red oxide for great protection.. when this stage, the hull will be stiffer like a rock.. nothing can match the strength of the hull in this stage as wood, FRP and on..and this will not crumble or splatter in a severe crash, but squeezes the place of impact.. weight is the main criteria of a thermocol hull.. the final weight will be very very less with this method.. after the application of red oxide, we can start the final works..
the final surface preparation is based on two materials.. the firat one is very inexpensive but 100 % efficient and effective.. is the NC based putty.. NC is nitro cellulose..and the word putty is stands for car body finish fillers.. this will be in to a grey colour, and gives us a smooth finish when finished.. after the application of red oxide over the hull, we can finish the rest as usual, that we follows on same balsa or wooden or metal hulls.. the second option is the PU based car body filler.. but this one converts the hull in to brittle in a crash, and makes heavier.. one of the main advantage working on these hulls are easy shaping and finishing.. we can make any complicated shape with a piece od sand paper.. and if you need a build log of thermocol hull i will post it in detail.. because once we mastered the idea.. nothing can stop making boats.. because its 1000% less easy when compared working on a wooden hull.. no cuts.. no jig sawing.. no pins.. no complicated ideas.. but any shape.. any size.. and another good thing is this one is never attacked by borers or termite.. lives for a life time.. this will not affected by climatic changes.. you can leave this crafts in direct sunlights or bone chilling cold.. the fading aspect will be the paint.. so working on.. and on...
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i got some personal massages about port rings and motor cooling.. is nothing tough.. the port door rings were made of foam board, turning on a hand drill..
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smoothed with water paper of 400 grit.. and pasted all in a line for painting..
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later painted in metallic copper cloud.. and here is the motor cooling method.. water jacket is made of two pieces of 1 inch aluminum C shape channels and sealed with 5 mm foam board and fast epoxy glue as both are resistant up to 120 degree of heat.. so easy..
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two brass tubes that i got from a ship kit, is used as in and out tubes..
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the bow thrust pump is made of foam board and this was controlled by twin switches activated by the same servo used for rudder.. in normal turns the craft is controlled by rudder itself.. but when we apply full stick, the servo arn triggers the switch switching on the pump in either directions.. so easy turn.. must for bigger crafts..
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the intake scoop was made of copper tube just placed in front of the prop..
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Superb work Krishna well done,another good covering for models is plain brown paper,i built an aeroplane some years ago and covered in brown paper and white glue,it became so strong you wouldnt believe i even made a cowling for a 50" hydroplane out of just brown paper using an orriginal one as the plug also very strong and waterproof.
Keep up the good work :-)).
Mart
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As Tommy Cooper used to say "just like that" ! {-)
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I have used Cascamite (a urea formaldehyde resin glue from the 1950s) smeared onto newsprint and then rolled to make funnels. It produced a very light, hard and rigid hollow tube, that rang like ceramic when pinged...
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Thank you for all the ideas Krishna. Very helpful indeed to all of us still learning. As you say, it's the idea of creating a shape which would be difficult even with machines.
We have a saying over here that "Necessity is the Mother of all inventions" and you are a very clever person. Keep em coming. :-)) :-)) :-)) as I particularly like the bow thruster switches.
Regards
ken
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As Tommy Cooper used to say "just like that" ! {-)
Lol yea just like that well almost mine was a full cowl including drivers position and rear section too.
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thank you all Respected Modelers.. and Elders.. will try all above mentioned ideas..