Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Dannypenguin on December 27, 2012, 08:37:53 pm
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Firstly, this is my first every R/C boat kit. The only other R/C boat I've had and still had is a 15 quid Toys r us cheap deal boat without any detail or function whatsoever. So being a teenager, I always want some better, so before Christmas, I was considering buying a cabin cruiser kit. My Dad had clocked this, and so, on Christmas morning, I found out I had a Paula 3 buoy layer. He had even bought the auxillary function set so I could fit it with a working crane. This was just getting better!! The first impressions was 'There isn't much in the box', but I suppose thats all part of the modelling. Hopefully it will be a great kit once built. So, this is the first installment in my build blog. Hope you like it!
The box of the Paula 3, showing what it should look like.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3box_zps24bdefb3.jpg)
The hull with deck resting on top after the rear section, access and mechanisms hatches plastic had been cut out. Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures before I began this stage.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3hull_zps2d97f126.jpg)
The deck, with the plastic hatches cut out. The bottom two hatches are for the crane system the larger hatch is for general access, and is covered by the lid on the left, which is then covered by the cab.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3deck_zps1b180c14.jpg)
The rear deck support. The manufacturer says to just glue the strip of die-cut the the rear of the hull. However, me and Dad (My co-builder) thought that to give extra support and stop it collapsing into itself, we added the two triangle supports.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3reardecksupport_zps92b86bd1.jpg)
The propeller and rudder holes. The prop hole is 6.5mm and the rudder hole is 4mm.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Rudderandpropholes_zpsfacfac5f.jpg)
More updates soon hopefully.
-Dan
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Quick work and looks like a nice start.
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Hi there, I built one of these last year, It is a good little kit to start with, you are right, there doesn't seem to be that much in the box, but there is enough to keep you busy.. You may want to detail the inside of the wheelhouse, I didn't do anything and it looks a bit bare inside, so it may be worth looking at.
Have fun and keep us posted,
Regards,
Nick. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Maybe you could make the buoy flash :o
If I can find where I recently saw how to do that then I'll post it up.
Dave
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Hi guys,
Thanks for all your comments. I haven't made any progress on the next stage, which is the electronics. If I don't post for a bit please keep checking because as a teenager I have schooling and also volounteer at a local heritage railway, and both do take a lot of my 'modelling time'.
-Dan
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Maybe you could make the buoy flash :o
If I can find where I recently saw how to do that then I'll post it up.
Dave
I am planning on putting flashing lights in the buoys but can't find how to do it so if you could find that it would be brill.
-Dan
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I am planning on putting flashing lights in the buoys but can't find how to do
One way would be to get some MCLF056AD (http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mclf056ad/led-flashing-5mm-orange/dp/1581191?Ntt=MCLF056AD) LED's (or similar LED's with inbuilt flasher circuits) and connect to the required voltage (3-10V for the MCLF056AD).
HTH
Steve
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*Update*
Hi,
Although I said earlier I hadn't made a dent into the electronics, I finished everything that I needed to do and me and Dad sat down and did some soldering. We surpressed the motor, fitted the two power wires (not connected to anything), tested the motor and fitted the motor supports.
Also, the instructions say use Teflon grease inside the propeller shaft tube, between the propeller shaft and the tube, to keep the water tightness, but can I use copper grease or ordinary grease??
One way would be to get some MCLF056AD (http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mclf056ad/led-flashing-5mm-orange/dp/1581191?Ntt=MCLF056AD) LED's (or similar LED's with inbuilt flasher circuits) and connect to the required voltage (3-10V for the MCLF056AD).
Thanks Steve and yes, I suppose I could use flashing LED's. The only problem is keeping the water tightness and being able to change the batteries inside as the light would fit on the top and the battery inside the main float.
-Dan
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Dont use copper grease BUT use hte ordinarry grease this will be fine.One thing I would reccoment with this Boat would be to use a brass Prop I changed mine and it was a lot quicker.I got mine from Prop shop.Not only was it a lot quicker but the run time was far superior than a plastic prop.
Dave
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Hi,
If I change it to a brass prop, should it be the same diameter?
Apologies if I'm asking stupidly easy questions, I've never done this before!! :embarrassed:
-Dan
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YES same size believe you me this boat will act like a ruddy speedy boat as the motor supplied is AWSOME BUT it is handy to have the extra power just to get out of the way of others sometime.As my signature staes there is NO motor big enough or in other words you wouldnt drive a Ferrari flat out eveywhere would you
Dave
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**Update**
Hi,
Some good progress have been made since my last post. We have tested, glued and fitted the motor, and glued and fitted the rudder servo cradle. We have also made a start on the rudder assembly itself. Pictures are below.
The electric motor fitted, the rudder servo cradle (at the stern), and the prop shaft.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3insidehull_zps0db2b68f.jpg)
The propeller shaft on the underside of the boat (propeller fitted for display purposes only).
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Propellershaft_zps5a596211.jpg)
The motor bracket, rubber coupling (between prop shaft and motor), and prop shaft.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Propshaftcoupling_zps6efac4a4.jpg)
The prepared rudder assembly.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Rudderassembly_zps2de48ccf.jpg)
Went to Barry new years day, took my old boat and met some other sailors. Interesting to talk.
-Dan
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Lookin' good :-)) .
Mark
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Hi
Thanks Mark. Not much to report at the mo, apart from the fact I'm looking for a battery. Will keep you all posted.
-Dan
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**Update**
Hi,
Just a quick update. The battery has been ordered and the propeller and rudder shaft have both been gripfilled in. Next is the rudder servo and rudder fitting.
-Dan
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Hi there,
I've bought a 6v battery from a website called budget batteries. However I still need a charger.
Can I use a 6v motorbike battery charger??
-Dan
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If your battery is a lead acid type, your motorbike charger will be ok. If it is a Ni-cad or Ni-mh you will need a charger,. These are quite cheap, Component Shop being the best place to get one. http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/mw2168vd.html they will also make you up any combination of connecting lead you may need at very reasonable charge.
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I would be very cautious about using a car / motorbike charger on a gel cell, those chargers can be quite brutal!
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I would be very cautious about using a car / motorbike charger on a gel cell, those chargers can be quite brutal!
Indeed they can, Mine has a 1/2 amp trickle charge facility, That is what I use, not the 'Fast' position....
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but gripfil will not do to hold a shft in place you need to use either a 2part epoxy glue or fiberglass filler
Dave
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Hi,
Just found this on ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261090808459?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261090808459?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619)
Apart from that, the rudder has been fitted along with the rudder servo, and I have sorted the gripfill problem that Dave (Stavros) pointed out. Pictures up soon.
-Dan
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Hi all,
The battery charger has arrived! However, it says on it '10VDC 600MA 6VA'. Is this definatley a 6V charger as it says 10VDC??? I don't want to connect it up and it go bang!! :o
-Dan
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Not to worry.
As the output is put to work charging your battery the voltage will be 6volts. It needs the power , you see. :}
Ken
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Hi,
The battery cradle has now been installed.
However, the instructions say use stabilit express which I understand is epoxy to glue together the deck and hull. However, it is ok to use silicone because knowing my electrical skills something is going to come loose and I wont be able to remove the deck if I use stabilit? With the silicone I would just be able slice it if something below deck ever goes wrong.
-Dan
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Hi there Dan, Stablit is a methacrylate based adhesive, not an epoxy. My daughters boyfriend started to build a Paula 3, and used epoxy to fit the shaft, and also started to assemble other parts with it as well, it all peeled apart. you will need Stablit or similar to work with ABS for important joins, it was designed for plastics like ABS. So take care with your choice of adhesives. Cyano (superglue) does not work very well either, I know this from experience rescuing Paula 3 from the clutches of future son in law. Have a look at Deluxe Materials adhesive guide and you will get a good idea of what you need. Stablit is expensive in the first instance, but, a little go's a long way, one small pack lasted me for 3 models and a few repairs for others, so money well spent as far as I am concerned. Deluxe does not sell stablit, but has their own version, No 4 or 5 on the list.
Have fun,
Nick
http://www.deluxematerials.com/boatmodelling.html
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Thanks. I'll have a look at that. Not much to report at the moment, been working a lot at my local preserved railway recently so haven't had much time on my hands to continue the build. Normal service should resume shortly! ;)
-Dan
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Hi Dan,
May I ask which railway you work with?
(from a total novices view) it looks a lovely little kit, and is coming togeteher very nicely...
Sean
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I work at the Dean Forest Railway in the Forest of Dean (as the name suggests!).
-Dan
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Dan, that is pretty awesome! I occasionally help out on the Nene Vally railway... :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Any new pics of the boat??
Sean
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I occasionally help out on Network Rail O0
Trouble is my manager wants me to help out every day {-)
Dave
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I occasionally help out on Network Rail O0
Trouble is my manager wants me to help out every day {-)
Dave
:o :o :o :o
Stop being so popular and you won't be wanted anymore %) %) %)
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An update! And a pretty special one too. Last night, we finished the electrics and we tested her in the bath! The maiden voyage lasted two seconds. It went forward, and then to stop it smacking into the other end of the bath, I slammed it into reverse. The propeller was loose and it fell off! {-) Anyhow, testing went well but the motor is making a whining sound when you start to increase the power. Is this a problem?? The other thing was, can the two receiver aerials touch??
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3bath_zpse90031c0.jpg)
Paula 3 under 'sea tests'.
-Dan
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Hi Danny, it is always satisfying when our boats first take to the water. Have you fitted a locknut behind the prop? This will prevent it unscrewing its self when you go astern. Your aerials should be at 90 degrees to one another for optimum performance on your reciever. A whining noise from motor and or esc is quite common at low revs so I wouldnt worry.
Regards,
Nick.
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2 aerials?
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Some 2.4 gig radios have 2 aerials on the reciever. These should be set at 90 degrees to eacch other, a former is usually provided for getting the angle correct.
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its a shame i didnt see this post a few days ago i got several chargers like the one you bought i would have given you it i cant get rid of em.
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I'm very, very, very sorry for this late update. We just haven't had the time to do anything on it. I had a little time spare a couple of days ago so I added a couple of things but hope to do some more soon.
its a shame i didnt see this post a few days ago i got several chargers like the one you bought i would have given you it i cant get rid of em.
No worries Mike.
Hope to update soon,
Dan
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Some 2.4 gig radios have 2 aerials on the reciever. These should be set at 90 degrees to eacch other, a former is usually provided for getting the angle correct.
Mainly for fliers
Is the 90degs vertical or horizontal?
In a floating situation it does not matter
unless you have a three dimensional model
AKA submarine when 2.4 gigglers don't work anyhow.
Ned
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Well done with the build young man, don't forget you may need some ballast and most important some floatation such as polystyrene as it is
not nice to have a boat sink when you have invested so much time and money in it,you can get plenty of help and advice on this forum when
you get stuck with a problem,best of luck,Ray.
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Finally an update! {-) Thought I'd gone and this project cancelled eh? <*< Wrong! My summer projects have been a garden railway (which I'll talk about another time) and the aformentioned DFR, but now the rain is in hindering garden progress and the DFR's running season is over, apart from the dreaded SANTA SPECIALS!!! %% I disappeared to a Garden Railway Forum for a while but have been making visits back, the jokes better! O0
So now the boat is back up front! And when this project was put on the back burner, we had finished glueing some of the detail parts. We used superglue as in the instruction it said use cyano to secure the detail parts however imbetween now and putting this off the glue has decided not to stick, so when we got it out, the details fell off. So now, we need to get some glue. What would be the best bet for glueing the 'die cut' plasticy stuff (only engineering terms used here :} )?
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If the 2 surfaces are plastic then you need Plastiweld.
This stuff actually melts the plastic together.
Cheers
ken
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Thanks for the message and the telephone conversation Stan, I understand you have put us right on a few things, thanks very much! O0
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I hope the information given earlier helps with your problems. The materials used in Robbe kits have always been a problem to glue, hence the they recommend Stabalit Express for most of the building work. I have found that the next generation of adhesives now being used in the construction industry can fill many applications that modellers need. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) .
Stan
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Hi all,
This is an odd place to put this but I don't think it deserves a topic of its own so I'll add it here.
I thought I would just take the time to say thanks and keep up to good work to Martin, the mods, and all of you other members for keeping this forum top notch. Recently, the three other forums I am part in have taken a downturn, with a lack of postings, community spirit hitting rock bottom, etc, (oh, and the jokes are worse too ;)).
So thanks guys, and keep up the good work!
Thanks,
Dan
aka DP
PS. The boat is still being built, don't worry about that, with the glue sorted its time to start glueing back on things that fell off!
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Dan,
It is the members that make this forum.
And doing a rather good job too.
We are just here to keep things ticking over and hopefully implement Martin's ethos.
Bob
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Martin's ethos
.... Ethos is the name of our pet whale. %)
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An update! O0 Yes, are rare species on this thread... :embarrassed:
I've fitted and detailed the wheelhouse over the past few days. Few pictures, sorry for the fuzzyness...
Another question. The acryillic paint I used to paint the inside of the wheelhouse comes off when lightly scratched (as I found out by mistake). What type of paint should be used on the ABS plastic?
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Hi Pm sent.
Stan
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An update! O0 Yes, are rare species on this thread... :embarrassed:
Another question. The acryillic paint I used to paint the inside of the wheelhouse comes off when lightly scratched (as I found out by mistake). What type of paint should be used on the ABS plastic?
You need to use some kind of primer...
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_203947_langId_-1_categoryId_165505#tab2
I have used this successfully. or you can use the tamiya surface primer
http://www.themodelbasement.co.uk/tamiya-87026-surface-primer-plastic-metal-grey-100ml-spray-can.html
Also before spraying make sure you clean the parts thoroughly.
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Thanks go to Stan who put us on the right road. :-)) Paint ordered and currentely waiting for it to arrive.
Another question. Are there any small motors that run slow enough to provide a realisitic turning mechanism for the radar system? I think it would look great if it were turning, I just can't find anything right to fit inside?
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P/m sent some of the really small motors are not strong enough to turn radar scanners how much space do you have? You could have a small geared motor in the roof of the cabin. See my p/m.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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What up guys?
Wow, I really left this one a long time eh? Two years ago I got the kit, not doing very well am I? As a fellow boater at Barry said today, "take your time and get it right", I do fear two years is taking the biscuit though... %)
Anyway, news! She was sailed on a lake! Today we went to Barry Island (or Barry land %% , its not really an island) and sailed her for the first time on the lake there. Was good fun, despite the batteries running out very nearly in the middle of the lake. Managed to get her back to shore though. Here she is:
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o753/Dannypenguin/Paula3seatriald_zps7a947e20.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/Dannypenguin/media/Paula3seatriald_zps7a947e20.jpg.html)
We also got some entertainment - whilst talking to one chap we heard a 'Somethings gone wrong!' from behind us, and we turned around to see a rather large cruiser coming towards the lake at full speed with its skipper not in control, once it had mounted the edge (bear in mind this is at full speed) and had been stopped, the cover was ripped off to find the ESC had caught fire, and obviously there could have been much worse consequences...luckily there was minimal damage to the vessel itself. :-)
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Congrats on the maiden run :-)). Looks great.
Mark