Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: chipchase on January 04, 2013, 11:36:35 pm
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Hi all, I have decided to have a go at building a Trawler for my next build this will be a change from Tugs. The vessel that I am going to building is the Amity 2. When I was picking a hull up from Anths (Orion Mouldings) for my Holmsider build he was rubbing down a new plug for a fishing boat hull that I liked the look of, he told me it would make the Amity from the TV program Trawler men . I told him I would be his first customer once he had done the mold; I acquired the hull about a fortnight later. I never started the build as I was still building the Holmsider at the time. I finished the Holmsider but decided on anther Tug. The Amity hull was put to one side for the next two years (doesn’t time fly when you are enjoying yourself). Unfortunately I have not been able to obtain a set of plans for the Amity build so I am going to have a go just from photos that I have managed to get of the internet. She was refurbished in 2012 and there are a few photos of her refurbishment on the =]www.amityfish.co.uk (http://www.amityfish.co.uk) site.
The first photo is the hull from Orion Mouldings.
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This is a good shot of the new rudder system and kort nozzle on the new refurbished vessel this is the first part of the build that I will start.
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An interesting subject - looking forward to upcoming photo's and how you tackle that rudder ! %%
Regards,
Ray.
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Here is a photo of the rudder so far Ray I will post a few photos tomorrow showing how I got to this stage.
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Nice work!
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Hello Brian,
I have said it before and will say it again your skills amaze me and encourage me to try that bit harder Thank you,
Regards Howard.
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By 'eck Brian what a cracking start! a man of many talents I can see. Really looking forward to following your build.
Regards, Tony.
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Thanks for the nice comments, I decided to use 6mm Perspex for the rudders I find this is very strong and easy to work with. After cutting to size, the Perspex was drilled to take the pins. I used stainless steel for the main shaft, if you look at the centre rudder you will see that the hole is deeper to take the drive shaft. I drilled two small holes through the drive shaft and inserted pins once the shaft was fixed into the rudder. Brass plates were made for the top and bottom of the rudders; brass pins were soldered into the plates then glued into the rudders. I drilled small holes into the top of the rudders and fitted brass bolts, I was going to tap out the holes to take the bolts but found that this was not necessary as the bolts made their own thread in the Perspex.
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I know it takes a lot of time Brian, but posting the explanations, the how to, and the pics as you have done, makes builds such as this a real joy to follow, with lots to learn and appreciate along the way. Showing "how I did it" is an absolute boon for newcomers and adds so much interest to the posts.
Regards, Tony.
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The next photo shows the outer shaft, this was turned on the lathe. Then the cross member was made and soldered to the outer shaft. I silver soldered this as it has to support the other two rudders. The operating link between the three rudders is a small brass bar with three holes drilled slightly larger than the 2mm brass bolts that are screwed into the top of the rudders.
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WOW ! Thanks for the update Brian, I would never have thought of using perspex but, now that you've pointed it out, it makes perfect sense - easier to shape than brass is, for me anyway. Then there's the weight difference as well - nice one. O0 :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I made the Kort top and bottom support brackets out of brass, the top bracket was secured to the hull with a nut and bolt and then filled with car filler. I purchased the prop from Jim Lane as you can see by the photo the workmanship is exhalent like all of his products, unfortunately Jim does not have a web site but if anyone would like a catalogue from Jim just give him a call his number is 01670352051
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Next part of the build was the port and starboard keels, the photo that I have of the Amity in dry dock shows that these were quite big so I decided to use 4mm alloy sheet. I cut the keels to size then shaped them on my disc sander. I fixed four 2mm piano wire pins into each keel and then drilled through the hull and secured the keel with two part epoxy then filled and sanded.
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Watching every move :-))
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Looking good so far. you wouldnt happen to know the shade of green/blue below the water line it was orginally
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Unfortunately coastie I don’t know what shade the colours are either above or below the water line. I will have to try and find out before I get to the painting stage. Unless someone on the forum can point us in the right direction.
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Don't know if the photo will show but this photo is on Jimmy Buchan's own facebook page
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/400538_515285831822099_19687132_n.jpg)
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Its a light blue anti-fouling and a bright red hull , wheelhouse is now white ( the yellow is primer )
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I`ve emailed Jimmy lol
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Great photo Davie; I will be making a bow thruster after I finish the hull alterations.
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I have made a start altering the hull as she has changed quite a bit on the stern end after her refurbishment. Cut part of the top section and rubbed some of the belting bars off then fitted the new section.
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Got a bit done today, fitted the servo for the rudder control also fitted the drive motor. I decided to use a belt drive so the motor would be accessible once the wheelhouse was lifted off. The motor bed plate is made from 3mm alloy and fitted to the hull using two part epoxy then car filler for the finish.
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That is a neat little motor/propshaft installation.
Now, if you can just make that wire presentable ....
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Hi Brian, the motor looks different to the norm, can you tell me what type it is and where you obtain the gearing and belt from?
Regards, Tony.
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The motor is of a kids E scooter model no MY1018 12v 100W 2700rpm given to me quite some time ago Tony, but I have seen them on eBay know and again. The last one was sold for £15. The belt and pulleys are from MFA Como drills here is link to the site.
http://www.mfacomodrills.com/timing_belts_timing_pulleys/timing.html (http://www.mfacomodrills.com/timing_belts_timing_pulleys/timing.html)
I will be sorting the electrical stuff out at the end of the build Mike. :-))
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Just thought I'd pop in and say how much I'm enjoying your work O0
Dave
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thank you Dave.
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Started fitting the bow thruster today, I have used the same type of bow thruster that I have made for other builds. The first job was to cut the holes through the hull for the thruster tube; I find the best way is to make small number of holes just a bit smaller than the thruster tube. Make sure that the port and starboard holes are in line.The thruster was put into place and fixed with two part epoxy and then filled.
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If you look at the photo that Davie put on this build thread it is quite clear that the thruster outlets are fitted with steel grating to stop any debris from entering the thruster tube. I decided to make the ones on the model out of a wire grill that I have, the grill is out of a kitchen extractor fan hood. I cut small pieces of tube the same diameter as the thruster outlet shaped and attached the grill to these. I then fitted both of the grills filled and gave them a coat of primer just to see how they looked.
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Hi Brian, me again (sorry!) but you do get a crack on especially so judging by the amount of scratch building you do, any chance you could show a pic or two or explain how you've geared your bowthruster from the coupling down?
Hope you don't mind me picking your brains or asking for you to share your ideas - but it's a great log to follow and am learning all the time.
Kind regards, Tony.
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No problem Tony, :-)) I used the same gears in my Z drives that I made for the Svitzer Maltby. The bow thruster did not have to be as strong as the z drives so I decided to use a copper T piece for the main unit, the shafts are 3mm stainless steel and the bevel gears were purchased from Duval Gears, they are 8mm diameter with a 3mm bore the same as the four bearings these were purchased from Simply Bearings. I cut a small section of copper pipe and soldered this into the T piece, the end caps that hold the vertical and horizontal drive shafts I turned on the lathe the small piece of brass tube in photo 3 is the grease point. All of the joints were silver soldered. The bevel gears come fitted with grub screws for fixing onto the drive shafts.
http://www.davall.co.uk/ (http://www.davall.co.uk/)
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/shopping_cart.php (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/shopping_cart.php)
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Brian…..a query.On the “real” vessel, do the 3 rudders operate around a common axis (like the steering on a kids box-cart”, or do the 3 rudders operate within a fixed framework (like a proper car steering gear)? I ask because I can’t help but feel that if they turn around a common axis it may not be as efficient as the second option. Regards. Bryan.
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Brilliant! thank you very much Brian O0 very much beyond what I would achieve but it's great to see engineering skills such as yours applied to models. The satisfaction gained from designing and manufacturing parts and assemblies is what creates the buzz in scratch building I guess, and is so much more rewarding than the pure assembly of proprietary parts and kits even if time out weighs the cost - modelling is a 'pastime' after all - then again you may not notice the effect of time being a bit of a speed merchant! I'm still basically a 'kit assembler' - but learning all the time from builds as this.
Kind regards, Tony :-))
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Brian…..a query.On the “real” vessel, do the 3 rudders operate around a common axis (like the steering on a kids box-cart”, or do the 3 rudders operate within a fixed framework (like a proper car steering gear)? I ask because I can’t help but feel that if they turn around a common axis it may not be as efficient as the second option. Regards. Bryan.
Bryan sorry I am unable to answer your query as I was not able to get any info or good photos on the rudders on the real vessel. The way that I have them linked on the model really works well.
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hi brian, i like the bow thruster system on the amity, looking very nice,,, may catch you at the lakeside tomoro morn, :-))
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Cheers Brian, yep I will be there tomorrow
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Brilliant! thank you very much Brian O0 very much beyond what I would achieve but it's great to see engineering skills such as yours applied to models. The satisfaction gained from designing and manufacturing parts and assemblies is what creates the buzz in scratch building I guess, and is so much more rewarding than the pure assembly of proprietary parts and kits even if time out weighs the cost - modelling is a 'pastime' after all - then again you may not notice the effect of time being a bit of a speed merchant! I'm still basically a 'kit assembler' - but learning all the time from builds as this.
Kind regards, Tony :-))
Tony I have build quite a lot of kits since I started building models and enjoyed every one of the builds, I certainly would not hesitate in buying a kit if I saw one that I liked. The problem with scratch building is the time factor; I was on nearly two years building the Svitzer Maltby and the same length of time building the Maersk Leader. (I must have too much spare time) {-) {-)
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Did a bit of work on the port side belting bars today and managed to get a coat of primer on. This is not the finished primer, as I like to give a coat of primer to show up any blemishes that can be repaired.
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Brian…..a query.On the “real” vessel, do the 3 rudders operate around a common axis (like the steering on a kids box-cart”, or do the 3 rudders operate within a fixed framework (like a proper car steering gear)? I ask because I can’t help but feel that if they turn around a common axis it may not be as efficient as the second option. Regards. Bryan.
The outer rudders are connected to the main rudder as Brian has built the model rudder Bryan , its built for simplicity and ease of maintenance. Jimmy has found he's using less fuel with this rudder than a single rudder as it need a lot less rudder angle to get the boat to turn and it maintains bollard pull during a turn.
There's only a handful of boats with this rudder system but as the boats look for ways to cut their fuel bills I can see a lot more fitting them in refits over the next few years
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Hi guys
I found this
BT Marine has supplied Triple Rudder & Nozzle system to MacDuff Shipyards Ltd.
Further to the success of the fishing Trawler “Resilient’s” installation of High Trust nozzle and Triple rudder system, BT Marine has recently supplied a further assembly to the fishing Trawler “Amity” installed by MacDuff Shipyards Ltd on her recent re-fit.
The Resilient is fitted with a CPP system for main propulsion, where as the Amity Is using a 1900mm diameter 4 blade FPP system also supplied by BT Marine. The system has seen marked improvements in the steering and manoeuvring characteristics of the vessels, along with a fuel saving, greater bollard pull and all round better engine performance.
The rudder system designed, manufactured and assembled fully by BT Marine, and utilises 3 independent rudder blades, all connected through a complex linkage system, allowing the outer blades on full lock to travel further, giving greater manoeuvrability under a heavy sea or Trawl.
With the focus on efficiency and fuel economy being more and more pushed to the forefront of design, BT Marine has looked at all parts of the propulsion & Steering systems and has just signed a contract for a High Efficient Flap style rudder 2.8m blade size for delivery to Russia, to RMRS Classification.
Dave
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/562907_515306075153408_1949762417_n.jpg)
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Thats the rudders stern on , can't see the linkage on top though , I thought it was a simple system but if its a type of geared linkage to give more rudder angle on the outer rudders compared to the main rudder then it would be pretty hard to model it on a working RC boat I guess
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by the way Brian the grates you can see are the pipe keel coolers for the engines ( coolant water and oil in separate pipes pumped through it to use the sea for cooling , most new boats going back to the internal box heat exchanger coolers we had in the 60's now to keep drag to a minimum ) you can see them better in this photo ( one each side same place on hull )
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/408226_515292985154717_450858738_n.jpg)
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Thanks for the information and photos, Dave and Davie. Not being able to get a photo showing the control linkage on top of the rudders I am afraid it was just guess work on the model but saying that I am very pleased with the way that the rudder operates. Once again thanks for the info. :-))
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Great build so far, looking forward to updates.
S.F
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Think Martin Should look at Brians work and move it into the master class.
Regards Howard.
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Think Martin Should look at Brians work and move it into the master class.
Regards Howard.
Great complement Howard but unfortunately the build does not qualify for the master class section. I have just started the Amity plus I don’t put enough information into my builds.
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Not much done on the build over the weekend, got a start today on the deck supports.
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Great work Chip :-))
ill continue to follow closely ok2
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A bit more done on the stern end today, I decided to make the area that will hold the two net drums out of 8mm ply as they will have to be fixed through the deck. I have also made a removable section just in case I have to do any repairs or replace the rudder servo.
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The next part of the build is the deck beams; I thought that it would be a good time to make the battery holder at this stage in the build as it can be quite a job after all the deck is in place. I use 8mm square and 8x20mm timber for most of the deck beams and fill in with 8mm ply, I then cover with 1.5mm HIPS (plastic card). I build all of my models this way and have no problems when it comes to fitting winches hand rail stanchions.
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Nice 'carpentry' Brian - still following avidly. I assume weight is not a problem, nice to see a robust solid build O0 certainly saves on the ballast?
Regards, Tony.
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No problem with weight Tony. :-)) When I got the hull I tested her in the bath to see how much ballast she would need to take her down to her water line, she needed 20lb that is including the battery. I have finished fitting the sub deck and managed to fit the main deck today. The shelter deck roof is not fitted yet, I placed a piece of plastic on the top to see how she looks.
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Deck vents made and fitted plus steps down onto stern trawl deck.
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Stern roller made and fitted, I used alloy bar for the roller and angel alloy for the plate that the roller sits on. Small pins are fitted in the ends of the rollers to allow it to turn. I have also started to add a bit more detail to the shelter deck area.
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Decided to make a start on the net drums today, I was going to make the end discs out of 2mm plasicard but I have quite a bit of alloy sheet so I decided to use this instead. You might think that I am jumping the gun a bit by starting on the drums but I need to make these before fitting the shelter deck roof as I will be bolting the drums to the deck and need to drill the deck before fitting the roof. The first job was to cut the end plates, these were rough cut using a band saw and then finished in the lathe. The shafts are alloy tubes with a solid centre shaft allowing the drums to turn. The spacers between each end plate is doweling drilled to fit over centre shaft. I will try to get the end supports made next.
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Very nice Brian - I'm still lurking! {-)
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[font=]Cheers Tony, haven’t done much on the Amity apart from rubbing the hull down a bit more. [/font]
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Small update, managed to get the bottom half of the hull painted in her final colour below the water line.
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A Joy to watch your build Brian,
Any luck with Northsider Lights yet am still confused over then.
Regards Howard.
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I have sent you a PM Howard
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Started to make the net drum supports, here are a few photos showing the progress.
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I ask is there any limit to Brians skills as I read and watch this build with amazment. I have a choice, Do I just throw in the towel and give up or do I try harder to be as good
Regards Howard.
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Hi... I have been watching your build with great interest, the model is looking superb... What is 'MFV' ... is it a generic type of boat, or is it a make?
Cheers Lee
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MFV
Motor Fishing Vessel
Ned
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err.... Thanks Ned :embarrassed:
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No need for the embarrassed face Lee we all have to learn and that is the only way, ask questions. :-))
Thank you Howard, I don’t think you have a choice you have to continue, I don’t have any more skills than you have, being an OAP I have plenty of time to make mistakes and start again. {-) {-) I sometimes feel the same way as you when I see some of the fantastic builds on the forums.
I have managed to get a bit more detail done on the net drums today, hydraulic pipes and the final coat of paint.
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http://www.buchanobserver.co.uk/community/business-directory/amity-star-jimmy-ready-to-make-fresh-waves-in-tv-world-1-2774713 (http://www.buchanobserver.co.uk/community/business-directory/amity-star-jimmy-ready-to-make-fresh-waves-in-tv-world-1-2774713)
Amity star Jimmy ready to
make fresh waves in TV world (http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?5181-Amity-star-Jimmy-ready-to-%E2%80%A8make-fresh-waves-in-TV-world)
(http://www.buchanobserver.co.uk/webimage/1.2774712.1359984757!image/1311924435.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_595/1311924435.jpg)
Published on Tuesday 5 February 2013 05:00
PETERHEAD skipper Jimmy Buchan could be heading back to our television screens in another fishing series.
The star of the BBC’s ‘Trawlermen’ revealed to the Buchanie last week that a new fishing programme could be on the cards – this time commissioned by Channel 4.
Jimmy, right, said: “I was contacted by a media company with a view to doing a new series – not Trawlermen, but in a similar vein, and this time from Channel 4.
“It has not been fully commissioned yet, but a cameraman will be coming away with me in the next couple of weeks on a ‘recce’ shoot to see if a new series is possible.
“I have met the people from the company and they are very excited about the whole idea.
“They asked me what they should be covering and I gave them a raft of things that they should be looking at.
“It’s been five years since we last filmed Trawlermen and in our industry things have moved on dramatically.
“People have left us and new faces have joined and fishermen have been burdened with a whole new regime of rules and regulations,” he said.
Jimmy said as well as taking a trip aboard his vessel, Amity II, the cameraman would be filming around the harbour area.
“The company will just be taking a fresh look at things and I really think we can work with them,” he said.
“Obviously a series still has to be commissioned, but hopefully this raw footage will be enough for them to go ahead.
“These people are amazed that there are fish in the sea because all the reports they see suggest otherwise. That to me is one of the driving points for this new series.
“Hopefully we can prove that our seas are healthy and being fished sustainably and people need to eat fish!” he added.
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No need for the embarrassed face Lee we all have to learn and that is the only way, ask questions. :-))
Thank you Howard, I don’t think you have a choice you have to continue, I don’t have any more skills than you have, being an OAP I have plenty of time to make mistakes and start again. {-) {-) I sometimes feel the same way as you when I see some of the fantastic builds on the forums.
I have managed to get a bit more detail done on the net drums today, hydraulic pipes and the final coat of paint.
OAP? So why don't you behave like one then? Your'e producing models and skills more suited to a Rolls Royce (ex) apprentice of about 40. Regards. BY.
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I just sit back in amazement at Brians attention to detail and his engineering skills an excellent build and a credit to you.
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Thanks for the positive comments gents; :-)) I don’t feel like a 40 year old Bryan. {-) {-)
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Well it’s been one of those days, I decided to make the strengthening frames for the port and starboard sides, these frames support the sacrificial sections that protect the steel work as the trawl doors are being lowered and hauled. Everything went to plan the brass was cut to size and soldered, painted and ready to fit the sacrificial boards. After checking out some photos I decided that they were too wide. Never mind back to the drawing board tomorrow. That’s the problem with building a model without having plans.
The first photo shows the support frames that I was attempting to make, let’s hope I have a better day tomorrow.
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Small update, I did not like the deck vents that I had made a while ago so made some new ones these look a bit better and I have made then a bit bigger. I managed to make the support frames bit smaller and made the sacrificial boards for the port and starboard sides. After making a few enquiries about the boards I found out that the ones fitted to the Amity are made from very hard plastic, I decided to make the models out of rubber. I have also painted the inside of the shelter deck and fitted the net drums, and the roof.
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Absolutely cracking Brian - I'm still lurking. :-))
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Thanks for the positive comments gents; :-)) I don’t feel like a 40 year old Bryan. {-) {-)
Dont look like one either {-) {-) {-)
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Dont look like one either {-) {-) {-)
:P :P :P :P
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Started to build the wheelhouse today unfortunately as I have said before having no plans the wheelhouse is made from photos and guess work. The coaming around the battery hatch forms the wheelhouse base. I have used wood and 3mm ply for the wheelhouse floor covered with 2mm plasticard. Once I was happy with the way this fitted onto the deck I made cardboard templates for the wheelhouse sides. I have managed to get both sides and the front made today. Before I glued the sides together I measured and cut out the windows, if you try to cut the windows out after the wheelhouse has been assembled it makes it very hard to get a good finish. After the windows were cut out the frames are fitted using .75mm plasticard.
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Super job there Brian - and that's a simple but relevant tip ref cutting out of the windows. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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cheers Ray
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A bit more done on the wheelhouse today. :-))
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Not much done over the weekend, but managed to get a bit more done on the wheelhouse today. The main vent at the back of the wheelhouse made and fitted, and the trawl door supports were started. The fittings on the supports are made from brass as these will have to support the trawl doors that will be hanging from chains so they have to be quite strong.
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neat and tidy work there chipper
:-))
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cheers Chris
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Got the brass fittings made for the trawl door supports today.
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Still watching and still amazed by your work.
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Not a lot of building done since my last post but I have managed to get some painting done.
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may i say a job well done so far. you are seriously skilled. i hope i can build to this quality.
well done. watching eagerly
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Not a lot done over the last three weeks, been busy on another build project. Just a small update on the Amity’s mast.
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A bit more detail added to the mast
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Three more photos showing latest update.
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wow totally speechless i love trawlermen and this is awesome! the detail is unreal! iv only just got my 1st boat and iv not a clue what im doing but seeing this is making me want to try make a replica!
keep up the awesome work!
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Thanks Rich unfortunately she is at a standstill at the moment (to many ongoing projects) hopefully I will get back onto the Amity build over the next few weeks.
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A very nice looking boat chipchase, I like the windows, are you going to glaze them, if so how are you going to do it, cut the perspex to fit inside? %%
Alan
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Hi Alan, yes I will be fitting the windows on the inside of the wheelhouse when I get to that stage. This will be quite easy on this model as the inside walls of the wheel house is wood laminate with wood window frames, here is a photo showing the real vessel being refitted.
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Thanks, window fitting in detail please O0 :} when you get round to it :-))
alan
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Jimmy Buchan would be proud of you making such a beautiful job of the model of his boat --keep up the good work-- even I have learned something looking at the photos--Charlie
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Jimmy B knows all about this model and is well chuffed so far :-))
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So he should be its an excellent model well finished what has been done
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Thanks for the positive comments all, (Jimmy has been most helpful during the build of the Amity :-)) ) I am really going to have to get back onto the Amity build. I have just about got to a stage on my Cragsider build were she can be put to one side for now.
Regards Brian
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Do you still own this model I'm interested in possibly buying it off you for the right price if your willing to sell
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Very nice plastic and painting skills, terrific build
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very nice build ill be watching this one :-)) :-))
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Awesome!!!!!! :-)) :-)) :-))
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Very impressed with your build, some workmanship :-)) , thought about this hull a few times so maybe take the plunge with one yet.
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Hi I sold this model quite a while ago, I think the hull is still available from Orion Mouldings. I was invited aboard the Amity about three years ago by Jimmy Buchan and took lots of photos. I did try and get a set of hull line drawings to build the hull myself but unfortunately Jimmy had none at the time.
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Hi, yes have seen the hull on Orion Mouldings website, thinking about one as a winter project, enjoy drawing up plans for a model, sadly model no be up to the standard of yours, somebody got a cracker buying the Amity, did you finish model before selling?
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unfortunately i never got her finished, too many builds at the time. to be honest I would have loved to build her at 1/12 scale this would make her just under 69 inches with a beam of 19.5 inches.
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Going by the standard of your work It would have been great to have seen her finished, well impressed.
A 1/12 scale one a bit big for me, but would have been a chunk of a boat, I was thinking though, it would have been around 80"x 21-22" at 1/12 scale.
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Must correct myself, at 1/12 scale Amity would be dimensions you said, so the Orion mouldings hull at 1/24 scale is not true scale as website says it's 41" long, and must admit when I saw full size boat I didn't think she was 82 feet in length.
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The Amity is 21 metres with a beam of 6 metres.