Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: old shrimper on January 09, 2013, 06:35:14 am
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hi
i am attempting to build the DUMAS Tuner Clipper my progress so far with pic
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00891-1.jpg)
DUMAS KIT not very fancy
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00893-1.jpg)
cutting the keel in half to fit the stuffing box
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00894.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00896-Copy-Copy.jpg)
lining up the frames on the board
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00895.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00898.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00900.jpg)
fitting the deck shelf
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00902.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00903.jpg)
fitting the pullpit deck and marking out the pice i decided to remove from the for foot to give the elision of more rake in the stem
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00905.jpg)[size=78%]
piece removed
shaping and fitting the bow blocks
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00908.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00910.jpg)
more pic later on my glue will be dry now O0 [/size]
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This is looking good. Keep up the log , please, must say I want to know more about the ship now. will start looking.
Ian
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Yes looking good!
.... the photos would also pass for some sort of abstract art project! ok2
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Was there any 'hardware' in the kit or just the 'wood'.
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Thanks for sharing your build. There's a lot of valuable information there on model boat building techniques.
Thanks again
Jim.
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Was there any 'hardware' in the kit or just the 'wood'.
hi mate
very basic hardware shaft ,small 2 x BLADE plastic prop , rudder ,and tube ,tiller arm ,railings ,i will post a pic of the contense of the bag that came with the kit
cheers bob
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ok her is some more pic
fitting the S2 that it what its called on the plan?
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00911.jpg)
fitting the precut sides
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00912.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00913.jpg)
fitting the pre-cut bottom panels
[size=78%]
planking the rest of the bottom, masking tape was my friend here
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00914.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00915.jpg)
this is my home made plank soak er filled with 50/50 water and cloudy ammonia you can tiy the planks in a knot after they have been soaking in there for 1 hour
they dry out back to natural color
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00917.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00918.jpg)
last planks going on the stern section
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00919.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00920.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00921.jpg)
the hull is all planked now the brown marks are from my little hot gun to hurry up the slow drying superglue :} (i had a couple of planks that dident go round the turn of the bilge to good so i redid them )
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00922.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00923-1.jpg)
now to take it off the board and do the bulwarks and clean it up and sand it and glass it
[/size]
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ok more pic
con tense of hardware bag
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00928.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00929.jpg)
bulwarks going on
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00924.jpg)
lots of Guerrilla glue here :}
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00925.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00926.jpg)
lots of cleaning up to do do on the in side damn [size=78%] [/size][size=78%]Guerrilla[/size]
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00927.jpg)
[size=78%]this is what it is supposed to look like when its [/size]finished ????
[size=78%] [/size]
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(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/Tuna_Boat.jpg)
not my model
some real pic of tuna clippers
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/elizabeth.jpg)
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ok more pic
con tense of hardware bag
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00928.jpg)
Bob,
Thank you looks like a large model :-)) :-))
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ok some more progress yesterday
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00930.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00931.jpg)
starting to shape the flair in to the bow blocks this will take a will to get it wright ,im going to flair the wallworks out from the deck to
the plan shows just leaving them plumb witch looks stupid on something with so much flair on the out side and it makes a big ugly cap rail round the prow
a tip for anyone building this one use the bulwark template to double skin the inside of the bulwarks as there's only 2 frames to hold them up one at the for deck and one at the stern ( very weak) it all so gives the look of a capping rail ok2
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00932.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00933.jpg)
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(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00943_zpsc37a9257.jpg)
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all my stuff arrived to day from HARBOR MODELS O0
i need some advice on mounting the SERVO its a lot higher then i though ?
is center over the keel the best place ?
can i lay it down ?
is there a setting in side [size=78%] to stop the arm going over center ?[/size]
[size=78%]( im haveing trouble posting more then one pic at a time ) [/size]
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(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00942_zps662312b0.jpg)
new 60mm prop
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00950.jpg)
i need some advise on installing the rudder servo
its taller then i would have liked ,can i lay it down ?
is in the center over the keel the best place to mount it? look like the best place at this stage ,
is there a setting in side it to limit the swing of the ARM ? it goes about 200 deg at the moment before it hits the internal stop stop
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa297/REDMALOOR8/DSC00949.jpg)
can you tel me what is the thing im pointing the pencil to on the instruction sheet ? and all so the blue thing to the left i don't have ether of these
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My guess is the Receiver and a switch in that order.
Barrie
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The thing being pointed at is the RX, the blue thing is a servo.
You can mount a servo anywhere you like, in any attitude. The servo doesn't care. On the cenreline is only favoured because there is least weight balance problem, and the steering linkage setup is simplest to figure out. As a rule, both the tiller arm and servo arm, at rudder centered and TX stick centred, should be at right angles to a line drawn through their respective pivots, and preferably on the same side. This gives an equal response both sides.
Although the servo can be shoved round through 200+ degrees, when controlled by the radio, you get about 45 deg each side, the mechanical stop inside the servo is to prevent the servo destroying the position sensing pot.
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OK thanks for that info
does the small plug with 3 light wires on MY servo ( pic above ) plug in to the the RX unit ?
the ESC has the the same size plug on it also do both of them plug in to the RX when i get it thanks
ESC
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00945_zpsa09d40b1.jpg)
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Bob,
Nice prop any idea which 'brand'?
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Bob,
Nice prop any idea which 'brand'?
its a RIVABO
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the ESC has the the same size plug on it also do both of them plug in to the RX when i get it thanks
Yes they do. The servo will be the tiller and the speed control will be the motor speed.
Cheers
Ken
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did a bit more to day i fitted the engine beds and lined up the motor and shaft
bit hard to see with the white glare of the 2 pak resin
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00953_zps78ca3cfc.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00954_zps69827e38.jpg)
the hull shape looks a lot better now i have the water line on ( FIRST COAT OF white 2 pack polley u 400
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00955_zps54195488.jpg)
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OK thanks for that info
does the small plug with 3 light wires on MY servo ( pic above ) plug in to the the RX unit ?
the ESC has the the same size plug on it also do both of them plug in to the RX when i get it thanks
ESC
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00945_zpsa09d40b1.jpg)
The ESC should have come with instructions - if the RX is part of a set, that should have instructions, too.
A look here - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6169.0 should help.
The TX should have clues near the sticks to indicate which stick belongs to which channel - the receiver probably also has its channels numbered. The 3-way plug normally plugs in so that the black or brown wire is nearest the edge of the RX board.
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hi guys
i gave the TC a run in the pool to day just the motor connected up to a 12V moped battery just holding on to it , WOW this thing has some serious bollard pull
wanted to pull the stern under :-))
im now thinking 6V might be plenty :o
how do i measure the amperage its drawing under load with a multy meter ? which setting do i put it on /and is it across the Pos / NEG terminals
thanks
motor in stalled
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00958_zps0375bb95.jpg)
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You need a multi-meter with a setting of 10amp. Most of the cheap digital meters have that. Set the meter to the 10amp setting, which usually uses a separate socket for the positive lead.
Connect the positive lead of the meter to the battery positive and the the negative lead to the wire you've taken off the battery. In other words wire the meter in the circuit from battery to motor. It is not advisable to run like this for more than a few seconds if you are drawing more than 1 or 2 amps.
Barrie
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thanks ill try it out
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(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00960_zpscdb3720e.jpg)
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/<a href="http://s1266.beta.photobucket.com/user/atomicmaloo/media/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00959_zps2e63f24d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00959_zps2e63f24d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC00959_zps2e63f24d.jpg"/></a>)[size=78%]
i ended up shaving 10 m of the top of the horn timber and recessed the servo i had in to a false deck :-) plenty clearance now :-)) ( just took awhile not that it maters )
so im just [/size]waiting for my selection of control rods to arrive from SLECUK.COM got some 2 m and 3 m rods with clevises in different lengths for [size=78%] $20 landed
so i can cut to length (4.1/2 " ) and thread the one end
cheers BOB [/size]
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starting to do the superstructure while its raining
sorry for the fuzzy pic
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00961_zps7d85e44b.jpg)
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While on passage from Honolulu to Panama with the new canal tug "Farfan" (seen here undergoing radar repairs in Okinwa) I was minding my own business in the middle of nowhere as can be seen by the accompanying chart when I got caught napping by this little helo buzzing overhead. No comms on VHF and after a couple of minutes he flew off over horizon. A couple of hours later a tuna boat like yours with the helo on top of the wheelhouse passed close by. We had a chat on VHF, she out of Mexico looking for fish and fascinated by our trip from Hongkong. He thought tugs went on big ships. Can't find the pick of the boat though.
Jerry.
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thanks for the story and pic im all ways interested in sea stories and pic nice little tug :-))
here is a brief history of the tuna industry for any one who is interested
http://www.westcoasttunahistory.com/
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hi guys
a few more pics
i need some advise on the windows , should i just paint them in flat black in side the frames ? , like i did on my islander trader (first pic ), or try to cut them out of a thin black sheet of plastic and glue it in side the frame
,or try to glue some window tint film in (,only ever try ed the paint in side the frame once )
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00969_zps7d5234c5.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00964_zps5d05b918.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00967_zps6cbe70f2.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00968_zpsc42333b8.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00965_zps30ee8505.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC00966_zps197290c4.jpg)
cheers BOB
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another pic
just deciding on a color schem
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01557.jpg)
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(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01562.jpg)
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That's one sleek looking clipper :-)) :-))
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A nice subject and build to follow - like the plank 'steamer'. What effect does the ammonia have? (other than smell! {-) ) Agree with Martin re the pics, wow are the colours bright! :-))
Regards, Tony.
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the ammoniea softens the fibers in the timber im told ,it goes like cooked noodles, then after you take it out and wash it 30 min later it starts to get back to normal
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Thank you - nice to learn something every day. Keep up with the good work.
Tony. :-))
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Sounds like a nice job Jerry!!
While on passage from Honolulu to Panama with the new canal tug "Farfan" (seen here undergoing radar repairs in Okinwa) I was minding my own business in the middle of nowhere as can be seen by the accompanying chart when I got caught napping by this little helo buzzing overhead. No comms on VHF and after a couple of minutes he flew off over horizon. A couple of hours later a tuna boat like yours with the helo on top of the wheelhouse passed close by. We had a chat on VHF, she out of Mexico looking for fish and fascinated by our trip from Hongkong. He thought tugs went on big ships. Can't find the pick of the boat though.
Jerry.
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75 days in an open neck shirt. 16 tonnes fuel on deck. No bunks or cabins as she day running only. No shore leave in Hawaii cos we alien seamen. Can't beat it eh. Wanna swop?
Jerry.
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Ah, the day running bit is a bit of a let down on a long voyage!
I'll stick to my desk a wee bit longer.
75 days in an open neck shirt. 16 tonnes fuel on deck. No bunks or cabins as she day running only. No shore leave in Hawaii cos we alien seamen. Can't beat it eh. Wanna swop?
Jerry.
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While on passage from Honolulu to Panama with the new canal tug "Farfan"
Hi Jerry,
though I don't want to offtopic this thread from the Tuna Seiner your FARFAN arose my interest.
I hope the thread initiator bears with me.
Is the FARFAN the typical contemporary tug used in the Panama Canal?
I think TERIBE (http://www.pancanal.com/eng/op/tugs/pdf/teribe.pdf) and ESTI (http://www.pancanal.com/eng/op/tugs/pdf/esti.pdf) must be sisters of the same tug series.
This type of tug looks above the waterline, where the arrangement of the Z-Schottel-Drives and the skeg is invisible, very much like a double ended design where you can hardly tell which is stem and which is stern.
Your GAP of which you have taken the photo indicates Robert Allen as the designers of this tug, so I gather that it must be of this Z-Tech 6500 Class (http://www.ral.ca/news/2012/2012-08-23.html) of ASD.
Are the dimensions mentioned in above link the same as those given on your GAP, because I cannot decipher the lettering when zooming in in your photo?
Since your photographed GAP shows body frames I think it should be fairly easy to create a lines plan from it which I feel a little inclined to do.
That's why I need to know the main dimensions (LOA, LPP or LWL, B, Tdwl).
Regards,
Ralph
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Deadwood, PM sent.
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did a bit more last week
first color coat to the hull , built the net skiff , and started on the main mast and crows nest
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01571.jpg)
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fitted up the radars to the mast to day
top one looks like a DECCA {-) [size=78%]bottom one 12 ft scanner is a FURUNO [/size] :-)) [size=78%] [/size][size=78%] [/size]
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01573.jpg)
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gave her a run in the pool with out all the top hamper
needs lots of lowdown ballest , had to take off the 60mm 4 B prop its way to fast for the 30x10 pool
so i put the 2B 48mm one that came in the kit ,trying to get a bit more rudder angle ( new post )
here is a pic of a real one in the dry dock
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/525679_431821023497410_513837874_n.jpg)
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The waterline being stepped down at the bow looks very unusual - or is it just my ignorance?
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most of the tuna clippers are like that ,i think its a tuna boat thing
some more pic
just ballast her up properly to day with sheet lead cut to fit in bee tween the frames still a tad high at the bow anchor winch and chain rails ,etc will fix that
just setting in the pool with all the of the gear motor batt ect in her still lots to do on the top sides ,along with a repaint just got one coat of color on at the moment
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01584.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01585.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01587.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01588.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01589.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01590.jpg)
main mast was just taped on its leaning back a bit
still have to but the windows in the side of the super structure , do the scuppers ,fair leads , net winch , power block , exhursts, radars , etc , etc
hope to look somthing like thiss at the end of the day
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/249047_223835144296000_7421371_n.jpg)
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some very good tuna clipper photo from round the world if your interested ?
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=573100789369432&set=a.135438659802316.23545.135432653136250&type=1&theater
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I was able to find pic of the last two trawlers i owened before i retired
KELANA built in 1980 at south port
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/kelana.jpg)
and the RESTLESS built new in 1981 in Brisbane had her for twenty years
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/img043.jpg)
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I don't know what happened to the pic above ??
Try again. Ken
did a bit more on it
reworked the whole stern section to make it more realistic to the real ting
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01614.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01613.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01612.jpg)
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Because you are too close to the top end, the Cape shifted slighly and moved the Photo %) %)
Good to see the croc's havent got you. O0 O0
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my amsterdam kit arrived today
wow its a big sucker plenty of room to move round in side this one
lol
both hulls are the same length
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01618-1.jpg)
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01617.jpg)
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still trying to finish the TC off LOL
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj529/atomicmaloo/MODEL%20BOAT%20PIC/DSC01672-Copy.jpg)
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Hi there. I was pointed to this thread by LauckStreetShipyards.com. I missed it in my Google search for tips and pics of how to build this boat. If you're still monitoring this thread, then I thank you for your build log. I will make good use of it.
My first boat build was actually the "Amsterdam"! I made her as a twin-nitro marine, using a pair Traxxas .15s, the Traxxas T-Maxx transmission, and a pair of one-quart fuel tanks. To keep her running, I used an aquarium air pump to maintain pressure in the fuel tanks, and adjusted the hold-down springs on the filler caps to release air at a certain pressure. That's just the basics. I wish I still had photos of that boat, but they were destroyed at the same time the boat was while in storage in a friend's barn. He moved it all to clean, left it out, and it got kicked by a horse. Needless to say I was a mite upset. >>:-( <:(
Although I have built many RC boats since the "Amsterdam", none of them have been an all-wood hull. This is a logical next step in my hobby, and as I am now disabled, I have the time but not the money to make mistakes. You build log is GREATLY appreciated. :-))
I'd like to know where you got all the little extras to put on her. I'm going to build her as a "yacht conversion", since disability is hardly the income on which one achieves a life's goal of moving back aboard a live-aboard like I was as a child. I have a nice little 14' Livingston, and this RC Clipper will make for many enjoyable hours of fun out there.
Hope to hear from you.
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hi mate
glad the log was helpfull O0 from memory i made the power block and the rest was from the surplyer (radar ect ) i mentioned in the log , it needs a lot of ballest i used sheet lead and cut and laid it in side and floored over , it sits up very straight on full power turns :-)) i now ony use 7.2v lippo as it is to fast on 12v , my amserdam build is on the site all so i used a stearing nozzel with a 70mm prop goese like the clapers , cheers ,old shrimper
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Good to hear from you young fella :-)).......... hope your chooks are all doing fine O0...... Derek
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I noticed that sheet lead ballast you used... nice idea. Here in the US there's a "ban" on all lead products now, so I will likely have to use sand or steel shot and bind it with epoxy. I have a LOT going into the hull though... and more planned in the future. It'll be a lot of fun no matter what.
Thanks guys. I'll post new pics as I go. I'm looking forward to this. O0
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Good to hear from you young fella :-)) .......... hope your chooks are all doing fine O0 ...... Derek
HI Derek
havent done any modeling for a while now been busy travaling in our caravan decided to go round ozz before its to late
choocks are ok how are yours ? cheers old shrimper
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I noticed that sheet lead ballast you used... nice idea. Here in the US there's a "ban" on all lead products now, so I will likely have to use sand or steel shot and bind it with epoxy. I have a LOT going into the hull though... and more planned in the future. It'll be a lot of fun no matter what.
Thanks guys. I'll post new pics as I go. I'm looking forward to this. O0
black ilmanite sand is very heavy and cheap
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2nd hand [used] copper "xxxxx" from a grit blasting company is also rather inexpensive and also approx. 15% heavier than steel..............I would be reluctant <*< to use any ferrous material/pellets/shot even if covered in epoxy
I accept that oxygen [from air] and moisture [humidity from air] is required for any oxidation/rust to occur I just wouldn't risk it...... Derek
Ho Ho %)...I just proof read the post & the moderators auto spell :police: has changed the name of the residue waste product that forms on molten metal..from S.L.A.G to xxxxx..............like it's so dumb, it cannot count the number of letters in a word {-)
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THAT'S what that means? HAHHAHAHAH! Kinda need to work on their spelling software. Thank you for the info on the sand. I agree with the rust issue, just didn't know there was a better alternative. I used normal beach sand stored in baggies in my "Amsterdam". Took a LOT of it! I'll look into that black sand.
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Hi folks. It's been a fun project, lemme tell ya. Again, I can't get my pics to upload to this blog because I guess my camera takes to big a photo (in digital size I mean) but I've taken plenty of pics and loaded them to Facebook. The last piece I need is a prop, and that's next month. The anchor windlass is a work in progress, but it will allow me to drop one or both anchors with enough chain on each for up to 10 feet of water. It's not done, and will be heavy enough I need to remove ballast to compensate, but it looks cool as heck with the anchors down in the tub. Sounds realistic too.
Keep your eyes out for videos... The camera in the pilothouse works GREAT!
https://www.facebook.com/shaun.olinger/media_set?set=a.1356054257744695.100000204013772&type=3
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Hi folks. It's been a fun project, lemme tell ya. Again, I can't get my pics to upload to this blog because I guess my camera takes to big a photo (in digital size I mean) but I've taken plenty of pics and loaded them to Facebook. The last piece I need is a prop, and that's next month. The anchor windlass is a work in progress, but it will allow me to drop one or both anchors with enough chain on each for up to 10 feet of water. It's not done, and will be heavy enough I need to remove ballast to compensate, but it looks cool as heck with the anchors down in the tub. Sounds realistic too.
Keep your eyes out for videos... The camera in the pilothouse works GREAT!
https://www.facebook.com/shaun.olinger/media_set?set=a.1356054257744695.100000204013772&type=3
There are quite a few who don't use spacebook for various reasons.
There are also a number of threads on how to load photos to the forum, which even I can do.(A Computer novice)
You don't need to be a rocket scientist.
Our leader, AKA Martin, has written and illustrated how to do it. O0 O0
No pics spoils many a thread?????? >>:-( >>:-( <*< <*<
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There are quite a few who don't use spacebook for various reasons.
There are also a number of threads on how to load photos to the forum, which even I can do.(A Computer novice)
You don't need to be a rocket scientist.
Our leader, AKA Martin, has written and illustrated how to do it. O0 O0
No pics spoils many a thread?????? >>:-( >>:-( <*< <*<
OK mate, point made. I'll get some uploaded ASAP. I'm not a comp novice... I'm border-line illiterate unless it's my flight sim system. :P
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Alright... stupid question... would someone please point me to the 'afore-mentioned post regarding photo posting to this site?
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Some light reading here:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,23.msg36.html#msg36
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Thank you. Give me a bit to get them resized and they'll be here.
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Here's the initial build pics. I didn't get many of the planking process, but it's pretty similar to everybody else's 'cause that's what I used to do mine. :-))
If anyone wants an equipment list, I'd be happy to give it.
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Here's the completed build (almost... prop is ordered, rudder is sitting on the fore-deck till I get the shaft cut to length). The fore-deck looks a mess from me trying to make a single-servo anchor windlass work... it'll take a two-servo system to do it with my 10 feet of chain. The idea is they are functional anchors... I can drop them if I want to sit down and take a break, or if I have an equipment failure, and it won't drift off until I can get the raft inflated to go get it. There's a 15-gram block of lead on the bottom of each anchor, and eventually I'll take the time to carve it to the shape of the bottom of the anchor, making it blend in better.
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And because the darned thing weighs about 15 pounds, I wanted an easy way to carry it. So... I built a cradle. It both stabilizes it on the ground and in the car, as well as make it easier for my busted back to pick it up out of the water. Everything but the hull is hand-painted, the hull I sprayed with an air-brush. All of the raw-looking wood is coated with spar varnish. As one other person previously said... that aft deck is just TOO PRETTY to cover with paint... so it has about 10 layers of spar varnish on it.
This is my "yacht conversion" of these pretty nice-looking working vessels.
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I forgot to show the ballast... I took lead fishing weights and, with a small jewelers torch, melted them into the center of large thick washers. The result was a bunch of pellets 3/8" and 1/2" in diameter and about 1/4" thick. Then I made some really small ones, 1/4" diameter by 1/8" thick. The large ones form the bulk of the ballast. The little ones made the balancing easy. I forget just how much ballast there is in there, but it's all epoxied in under the battery. Without even realizing it, I set this boat up so ALL of it's extra ballast is directly under the main battery. If anyone wants to see it, yell. The library got busy so I had to get it out of here before I got all of that.
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Still working on it. This model is 1/72 scale, so I made sure my tenders are as well. Two 20' whale boats and one 40' twin-inboard express sedan. and since the cabin lights tend to build up heat inside, I put a little ESC fan under the stacks. Now they're functional exhaust stacks.
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Oops... screwed up the resize...
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I wasn't satisfied with the tenders I built, and they were too heavy made from standard wood, so... I built them out of balsa. And what self-respecting Clipper would cruise without a helo on deck? This is one I designed for a below-deck hanger on a different ship drawing, and since most helos have to have their rotor-heads broken down to strike below, I designed the "X-rotor". If it was aerodynamically possible, someone would have done it already... but it looks cool.
40' mini-sub, 2-seater
40' twin diesel pump-drive speed boat
20' motor-whale boats
"X-rotor" helicopter, 4 seater