Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Capt Podge on February 12, 2013, 01:39:48 am
-
Having built a number of kits, like so many others, I've decided to take the plunge and try my hand at scratchbuilding.
This will be a "double first" - i.e. 1st scratch build and 1st Warship.
Being the cautious type I'm starting off with a so-called "easy build" to see how we get on then maybe move on to PoF later.
The plan I'm using was produced a number of years ago by Vic Smeed for a leander class vessel which was designated the name "Sea Rider". This was for a model with l.o.a. of 30 inches. I wanted something a little bit bigger so I photocopied the plans at 148 %, giving me a model of 42.5 inches.
All parts (hull bottom, bulkheads 1, 2 & 3, stem piece, transom, main deck, deck break and foredeck) were traced and marked up on 4mm ply sheet and cut out with a Stanley knife and steel ruler, staying a few millimeters outside the lines.
(http://s12.postimage.org/5kfp8r3ql/Parts_traced_cut.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
picture hosting (http://postimage.org/)
These were then trimmed and sanded to the marked lines then the surfaces were given 3 coats of sanding sealer, sanding down between coats.
A dry assembly was then carried out. Bulkhead no.1 was found to be too narrow where it joins to the bottom of the hull !
Placed onto the plan BH1 was exactly correct so I have to assume something went wrong in the photocopy stage.
Anyway, I corrected the lines on the plan, made another tracing and cut out and treated the new bulkhead as above - perfect fit - glad I did the dry run !
So, onto the build: Bulkhead no.1 glued in place, checked for squareness and held in place with blocks until glue set. Same for stem piece and BH2 & BH3. I then ran more glue along each joint and added 1/4 inch square balsa strips for added strength.
Whilst the glue was drying I cut out and sanded to shape the maindeck cut-outs.
When all was dry the main deck was glued in place and extra glue and balsa added as before.
(http://s8.postimage.org/j0mzxnv7p/Hull_in_progress.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
images (http://postimage.org/)
The "kick-up" part on the bottom is not yet fitted - just put in place to get an idea of the angle for chamfering.
So far, so good.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Wasn't this plan used in conjuction with a TV program about model building. Something like "Bob Symes Model World"?
-
Yep, you're spot on there. Appears this programme went out on BBC2 in 1975 ! :-))
It was also mentioned on this forum - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=bbc2+model+world+bob+symes+sea+rider&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDoQrAIoATAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelboatmayhem.co.uk%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D16333.0&ei=mVAaUcP5Eqmw0QXgtIH4DA&usg=AFQjCNHTjpl2buSXMwY8hZIwX36JqJC6ZA (http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=bbc2+model+world+bob+symes+sea+rider&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDoQrAIoATAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelboatmayhem.co.uk%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D16333.0&ei=mVAaUcP5Eqmw0QXgtIH4DA&usg=AFQjCNHTjpl2buSXMwY8hZIwX36JqJC6ZA)
Didn't realise that but I'll carry on with it anyway.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Glued 1/4" square balsa strips under the deck, around the deck openings, this gives a deeper landing area for the coamings to be glued on later.
(http://s4.postimage.org/kvog20fb1/Joints_strengthened.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upload foto (http://postimage.org/)
Glued 1/8" strip balsa to for'd face of BH1 and the cut-out in the stem piece to accommodate the for'd deck break.
A dry run showed the deck break to be too short ! - my own fault, due to over eager sanding. No problem though, just had to make a new one.
(Incidentally, the original plan was designed for the model to be made of balsa - I decided to go with plywood, just because I had this in stock)
So, the replacement deck break was glued into position and then more glue run along the joint then sprinkled with fine sawdust. When this was dry the excess was brushed off and the joint sanded smooth.
The foredeck was then glued in place and the resultant joint between it and the deck break was treated the same way as above. Again, the underside of the pieces were strengthened with more balsa strip.
The remaining piece of the hull bottom, along with the transom piece were chamfered and glued into position. When all was dry the sharp edges were sanded to final shape.
(http://s9.postimage.org/q512ql8pb/Skeleton_completed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upload pic (http://postimage.org/)
That's the hull "skeleton" completed - this will now be left alone for the wood glue to harden off.
The next job will be to fit the proptube and rudder.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Looking good Ray, :-)) i to am a beginner at model boating and i am just cutting my teeth on a Dickie conversion and a Fleabay RTR Police type boat. When they are finished i will post a few pics but even with these cheap models i am learning about radios, materials, glues, Led's motors, props ,chargers, batteries etc. I am glad i cut my teeth on something simple first before diving in head first but i do remember this model on TV ( getting on a bit now ) and would not mind having at this myself. Any idea where i could get a set of plans from and how did you scale them up? Good luck with your build, i will follow it with great interest, regards, Dave.
-
Thank you for your kind comments Dave.
I also have a Dickie tug awaiting my attention - it's all in bits at the mo and will have to be attended to "in the future".
The scaling up of the plans was a bit hit & miss to be honest - I had access to a xerox photocopier at the time and just increased the percentage to 148%, then it was just a matter of joining up the A3 sheets.
If you PM me your details I can post you the original plan.
...and have fun with your boats !
Regards,
Ray.
-
An undersize pilot hole was drilled in the hull bottom and BH3 then filed in an elongated manner to accommodate the proptube. Balsa wedges were used to ensure the correct angle was maintained whilst filing. Kept on offering up the proptube until a snug fit was achieved and then the tube was taped in place (with the wedges maintaining the angle) and then, before the 2-part epoxy resin was applied, the propshaft and propeller were temporarily installed to ensure the prop wouldn't foul the hull. (on a previous model I had to trim the blades down 'coz I had set the proptube angle too shallow. It was easier to do that than trying to remove the epoxy resin and start again)
When happy with the set up the epoxy was applied then smoothed off and left to dry.
The rudder was tackled next. I've used a commercial rudder on this model and found I couldn't get the brass nut to tighten up sufficiently, this was because the thread on the plastic rudder tube doesn't go all the down - there's about 6mm of unthreaded plastic where it sits on the bottom inside the hull.
My solution for this: Take the rubber end from the plunger of a 2ml syringe, cut off the enclosed end of the rubber - now we have a neoprene ? tube which is a very tight fit over the rudder tube (used vaseline to tease it onto the tube) and it squashes down nicely and forms a good seal when the brass washer & nut are tightened down.
Then, an angled platform was made for the motor mount to screw onto. I used balsa for this as it's easy to sand down.
Motor and mount were then installed and a quick test ensured that all was aligned correctly.
(http://s18.postimage.org/nwq7c06dl/Proptube_and_rudder.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upload foto (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/uqtxdtv3v/Motor_proptube.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
picture sharing (http://postimage.org/)
Hoping to start on the side skins soon...
Regards,
Ray.
-
Looking nice Ray, :-)) is the rudder tube tall enough? ie the tube has to be higher than the waterline or it could let water in through the top, leak, the taller the better i was once told to keep the water out. Just an observation, not a criticism of your fine work, regards, Dave.
-
Hi Dave, ref the rudder tube height - yep, that's a very good point you've made there - on this particular model, the waterline shown on the plan would indicate that the top of the tube will be well above the waterline. Once the hull gets painted I'll carry out basin (bath) trials just to confirm. :-))
Well, off to the post office now.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Something I forgot to mention earlier - the Leander class vessels were twin screw / twin rudder but, as can be seen, this model will be run on just the single set up - as per the original model plan. Also, because this model is to be kind of "representative" of the class, as opposed to "exact replica", the bilge keels and stabilisers will also be omitted - again, as per the plan.
The motor I've installed is a 540 which will probably give the model too much power - this will be replaced by a 380 if required.
But I'm jumping the gun a bit there, back to the build:-
Decided to go with 1.5mm ply with 1 complete skin per side and to glue in place in stages. I've also painted inside the bow area at this stage as there'll be no access once the skin is in place.
Anyway, the Port side skin was cut roughly to size, with overlap top and bottom for final sanding later.
Before fitting, the skin was given two coats of sanding sealer rubbed down between coats.
Gluing of the skin was done in stages, starting at the bow as that was the most awkward bit to hold in place while the epoxy resin was setting. I've used the 5 minute stuff here as I had that to hand.
(http://s9.postimage.org/ol6mkazrz/Port_side_skin.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
free image hosting (http://postimage.org/)
When the glue had finally set the skin was sanded down to the correct level. Wood glue was then ran into all the inside joints, using capillary action, hopefully giving a solid joint.
(http://s4.postimage.org/jsexr9lbx/Port_skin_trimmed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
pic hosting (http://postimage.org/)
The next stage will be to paint the inside of the hull, before the Stbd skin goes on, should be easier that way (I hope)...
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Ray, good idea to have full skins on both sides, i am sure it will be a lot stronger than lots of small pieces. Are you using Marine ply or normal ply? Anyway it's looking good from here and thanks for the plan, it came yesterday :-)) Regards, Dave.
-
Are you using Marine ply or normal ply?
Not sure what it is Dave, can't even remember where I got it from {:-{
Nice to hear we can still rely on the old post office service anyway.
While waiting for the glue(s) to go off, the rudder servo mount was made up ready - made this one from plasticard in a sort of oblong configuration.
Also took this opportunity to make up the hatchcoamings on maindeck & after deck.
(http://s8.postimage.org/5nnqrw905/Coamings_in_place.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upload photos (http://postimage.org/)
On impulse I decided to temporarily install all the running gear - again, this was a lot easier to do while the hull is still "open" on one side. Extended rudder servo cable, on/off switch installed, battery box made up and glued in position, velcro stuck in place for Rx and Esc.
So chuffed that everything works ok, but forgot to photograph it all in place. :embarrassed:
I'll do that the next time everything goes in...
Regards,
Ray.
-
Applied 2 coats of primer / undercoat to the inside of the hull - didn't bother with rubbing down, just topcoated using JAPLAC paint (B&Q).
When all was dry the Stbd skin was tackled. I was going to paint the inside face of the skin first but thought this would be detrimental to the gluing surface, as opposed to the bare wood.
As with the Port skin the Stbd was glued in position in stages, again starting at the bow with 5 min epoxy - the remainder was glued using 20 min stuff, 6 - 8" at a time, to ensure good adhesion all along the joints.
When this was dry, wood glue was ran along the inside joints, again using capillary action to reach all along the hull.
The skin was then sanded back to deck level, likewise the bottom.
Note: The block underneath the hull is to keep the proptube up off the workbench - still haven't made the stand yet !
(http://s7.postimage.org/57w2kadzv/Stbd_skin_on.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
online photo storage (http://postimage.org/)
The bow area was tackled next - couple of offcuts used to fill the area then applied P38 and rubbed down - this was followed by painting the inside of the Stbd skin - quite awkward to do now that the only access is through the deck cutouts.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
(http://s7.postimage.org/ek0i07k2j/Bow_filled_sanded.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
picture hosting (http://postimage.org/)
Now the hull was given a good rub down and a coat of primer applied - this revealed 2 small indentations on the main deck, which were filled and sanded smooth - 2nd coat primer applied then rubbed down with wet n' dry, used wet.
So, that's the basic hull completed - now waiting for suitable weather for spraying as this has to be done outdoors.
(http://s4.postimage.org/h7t5wbyrx/Hull_primed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
images (http://postimage.org/)
Regards,
Ray.
-
I normally hand paint my models but decided to try using car spray paints for this one.
Found a part-used aerosol can of grey undercoat (used on a bicycle frame - years ago) to get started with.
Sprayed the bottom of the hull & stbd side then ran out of paint ! >>:-( - ok, lesson learned. Then it was off to halfords to stock up.
Sprayed 2 coats of grey primer, rubbing down with wet 'n dry between coats, then set aside to dry for 24hrs.
(http://s21.postimage.org/pwg4h35kn/Hull_grey_undercoat.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
primer applied
The surfaces were then cleaned up ready for the topcoat(s). Used "Ford Polar Grey" as this seemed nearest to the desired shade. 1st coat applied - not a bad job for a first attempt.
2nd coat - got too close with the tin when spraying the bow & stern which resulted in runs of paint on those two areas - this meant another 24hr wait until it could be rubbed down ready for another attempt. >:-o
Finally got it rubbed down and 2nd coat applied today :-)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ika9g4ybd/Hull_topcoat.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
topcoat on
This will now be left alone for a full 24hrs for the paint to dry.
Regards,
Ray.
-
That is looking good Ray
Can't wait to see the rest come together.
Dave
-
Thoughts now turned to tackling superstructure and other fittings.
Decided at this point to abandon the plans - the superstructure just doesn't look right when compared with photographs of various vessels of the class.
So, the remainder of the build will be trial & error (along with modellers' licence of coarse)...
Cut strips of 3.5mm ply for superstructure base to fit snugly over the main hatch coaming. Cling-film was placed over the coamings to avoid getting glue on the deck. The hull will be given a protective coat of varnish when all paintwork has been completed and hardened off.
(http://s21.postimage.org/783tjy7tj/Ensure_good_fit.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
ensure good fit
The cling-film can just be seen below the "quick clamp"
When the coaming was completed the hull waterline was marked off then masked using 10mm Tamiya masking tape followed by paper tape and newspaper.
(http://s15.postimage.org/tefb4wh3f/Masked_for_spraying_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Masked_for_spraying_1.jpg
Got lucky with the weather again today, so it was back outside and the lower hull was given 2 coats of matt black.
(http://s22.postimage.org/u64ty1n35/Bottom_done.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Bottom_done.jpg
When the paint was almost dry, the masking was removed - no overspray or seepage discovered - good stuff that Tamiya tape, definitely my tape of choice.
(http://s10.postimage.org/iho9wk2x5/Tape_removed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Tape_removed.jpg
The hull will now be left alone to dry completely.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Used 6mm x 3mm plastic strips athwartships to add strength and rigidity to the base of the superstructure.
(http://s16.postimage.org/747xuua8l/superstructure_bracing.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bracing.jpg
Applied the ships name on Stbd quarter using 3mm BECC lettering in red.
(http://s11.postimage.org/ma0kon5yr/Name_applied.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
name applied
The epoxy resin used for the athwartships bars was completely hardened off by the time I'd finished putting those little letters in place %%
Next job was to cut more plasticard for 01 deck. This was cut oversize then trimmed after gluing in place. I'm using plasticard wherever possible on the superstructure to try and keep the top weight as light as possible.
(http://s13.postimage.org/kyjhvvlk7/01_deck.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
01 deck.jpg
Added the ships name to the Port quarter - found the job a bit easier this time due to lessons learned from the previous effort.
Applied white primer to the wooden portion of the outer coaming to help protect from moisture when sailing.
Used more plastic strip to further strengthen 01 deck - this also gives a bit extra plastic to "weld" to in the initial stages of adding the bulkheads.
The Port bulkhead was tackled first with the curve being achieved using SWMBO's hairdryer while the plasticard was clamped in place.
This was left to cool for 45 mins then checked for fit - looked ok so the bulkhead was glued in position using the 5-min epoxy.
(http://s22.postimage.org/imus83k29/Going_up.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
going up.jpg
Quite happy with that so the Stbd main bulkhead was done in the same manner.
The centre for'd bulkhead was cut and attached then sharp edges trimmed and rounded off.
(http://s22.postimage.org/vwdalxy6p/Going_up_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
going up 2.jpg
Regards,
Ray.
-
Further plastic strips were added inside the bulkheads to give a bigger landing area for the bridge deck to be glued in position, trimmed and smoothed off.
(http://s24.postimage.org/jg7uk371h/Going_up_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
going up 3.jpg
The base for the bridge area was then worked out, cut and used as a template for the bridge roof.
(http://s21.postimage.org/h4ioou4w7/Bridge_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bridge 1.jpg
Sorry for the quality of some of the photo's.
The bridges on these vessels were a sort of hexagonal shape so each individual section has been cut to suit and marked up ready for construction
(http://s7.postimage.org/scitmg9zv/Bridge_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bridge 2.jpg
Realised just in time - all the bridge windows are angled out over, therefore the inner supports (6mm x 3mm strip) had to be chamfered to accommodate this.
Also, the bridge roof had to be larger than the base due to the increased area created by the "angled out" windows.
So, the bridge construction started with the 3 front sections - no problem there - it was the next sections which revealed my error - I had cut out all 13 sections (windows) to meet in the upright position ! but of course this would have left a "vee" gap where the sections were to come together. >:-o
So now each of the sections had to be remade to fit. Ho-hum, another lesson learned O0
All the new parts were then glued in place and the structure was then inverted to draw around on a fresh sheet of plastic to ensure the bridge roof was a good fit.
Now came the awkward part - cutting out the windows - this was done by drilling a series of holes around each window (the window frames were marked out using a drawn out template) the holes were then cut through with the stanley knife, centre waste knocked out and windows filed to final shape.
Glazing will be done after superstructure has been sprayed - long way off yet though - this photo shows the basic bridge in position and awaiting the weatherstrip. This I have yet to work out....
(http://s24.postimage.org/lwepv1vfp/Bridge_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bridge 3.jpg
Just realised something else - I don't have any suitable paint for the main deck - so it's off to Halfords again later.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Managed to get a little bit more done over the past week... and learned a few more lessons along the way ! O0
The hull was masked off and the main deck was given 2 coats of Halford's "Ford Meadow Green" then left to harden off for 24hrs and looks pretty close to the deck colour as I remember it.
Now, in my enthusiasm when masking up, I failed to notice the bare masking tape was covering the name plate letters on the stbd side - when the tape was removed the first 2 letters came off with it - Aaaaaargh ! >:-o >:-o it took me ages to put them bl**dy things on straight in the first place. >>:-(
So it was back to affixing the replacements on - won't make that mistake again %)
Now it was time to tackle the overhanging "weatherstrip" from the bridge roof. I was just in the process of gluing down the roof when I realised - it has to remain unglued until the window glazing goes on :embarrassed:
A quick pull got the roof off before the glue had time to set -phew !
I've used 0.5mm plasticard for the weatherstrip and used SWMBO's hairdrier again to achieve the desired curves.
(http://s7.postimage.org/z5qkse1i3/Green_deck.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Bridge roof.jpg
Next came the portholes along the main superstructure sides - marked off the locations and drilled pilot holes then opened them up with 3mm drill bit, finished off with filing the holes smooth and clearing out the swarf.
For the watertight doors I made up a plastic template and used this to cut & file to shape the 8 that I needed for this part of the build - these were glued in place with superglue.
Next part to tackle was the bridge wings. Initially, I made the floor of the Stbd wing, cut to final shape and was in the process of making the weather bulkhead when I realised that, if I just glued this to the main superstructure it would be prone to breakage - abandoned that idea - went with this instead:-
used a standard hacksaw and cut right across and through the superstructure to the aftermost point of where the bridge wings need to be fitted.
This gave me a nice gap into which I slid a 1mm piece of plasticard, did the necessary marking off then slid the resultant cut piece into place. I had cut it slightly oversize and then filed down to final shape and "welded" into place.
This gives a stronger, stable superstructure to work with.
The bridge wing doors were next and these were made (using the same template as used to make the w/t doors) glued in place and holes drilled to take the portholes.
Note: These 2 doors also needed the "dogging" handles fitted before the wing bulkheads go in place due to inaccessibility once the wings are completed.
Snapped the only 0.5mm drill bit I had left - was going to drill the holes for the "dog handles" - and of course the shops are all shut now - >>:-(
Still, there's always something to be getting on with - in this instance it's the signal deck bulkheads. These were glued/welded in place using small set squares to keep them vertical.
Next came the for'd mast.
This was made up using 1mm plasticard skins with 3mm x 6mm plastic strip for support/strength and brought together in right angled halves. When I measured up to make the mast I added on an extra 35mm so that it could be slotted through the signal deck and seated on 01 deck.
However, because the base of the mast is broader and tapers up, when it came to cutting the aperture, it had to be to accommodate the broadest part so when the mast was slotted home I was left with a few mils gap. This was filled with strip all round.
What I should have done was either make the extra length square instead of tapered or, with a bit of forward planning, I could have left the bridge/signal deck unglued, cut the mast aperture and then slotted the mast home from underneath.
That's yet another note to go into my "how to / how not to" notebook <*<
(http://s11.postimage.org/56urnwsr7/Bridge_wing_decks_signal_deck_foremast.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Mast from for'd.jpg
(http://s9.postimage.org/oevtue0hb/Mast_thru_deck.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Mast from aft.jpg
Away to the shops again tomorrow for mini drillbits stock-up...
Regards,
Ray.
-
looks great! better than my first scratch build attempt! ok2
-
I must agree, for a first scratch build i think it looks superb :-)) It has that ' if it looks right then it is right' feel about it. I allways look forward to the next instalment of this build and so do my two young son's. Every credit Ray, regards, Dave.
-
Mark and Dave - thank you very much for your kind comments - I'll try and get a little bit more done this evening. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
The funnel was tackled next.
My first idea was to carve the whole thing from a block of wood but I soon gave up on that - my woodworking skills are not really up to it and, besides, I'm trying to keep the top weight to a minimum.
Attempt no.2 - The side view of the funnel was drawn freehand on paper, taped to a small trysquare and sat in position for effect.
(http://s18.postimage.org/skwgkqnkp/Paper_funnel.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Funnel template
I was happy with the result so the paper template was transferred onto 1mm plasticard.
A strip of 0.5mm card was then wrapped around the bottom of the plasticard template to give the curvature, or footprint, required for the funnel.
This was then inserted into the cardboard tube of a spent kitchen roll and the tube manipulated to the required shape and held with paper masking tape.
The next task was to cut a piece of 0.5mm sheet plastic to wrap around the "skeleton" funnel. I found this a little tricky because the slope of the funnel meant I had to cut off each end of the sheet at an angle so that they would come together on the slope - I can't explain that any other way - geometry wasn't one of my strong subjects at school !
Anyway, the sheet was cut, wrapped around the "skeleton" (or should it be called a "former"), taped into place and then "welded" with Plasweld. Once the weld had dried the "skeleton" was removed and after a little bit of filing was done I had my funnel.
The funnel was then upended onto 1mm plasticard and a blank made as a seat for the funnel cowling. I toyed with various bits and pieces to make the cowling and finally settled on using polystyrene, the stuff they use for packaging.
I've got one of those "hot-wire" cutters but, as usual, I've put the wire away somewhere for safety but can't find it now !
So, the foam was cut using a razor-saw and lightly sanded to shape.
This was then coated with thick, sandable pva and left to dry. The result wasn't satisfactory so I re-covered it with P38 to achieve a better surface.
While that was hardening off I cut a 1.5mm wide strip of 0.5mm plasticard to wrap around the funnel to act as the funnel cowling support ring.
So that's the basic funnel done.
This photo shows the stages of construction of the funnel body
(http://s18.postimage.org/iqj3jqnrt/Funnel_templates.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Funnel parts
The bulkhead between 01 and signal deck - athwartships - was cut & glued in place and another 2 w/t doors added, 1 each to Port & Stbd, which open onto the boatdeck.
(http://s15.postimage.org/5151vhf6j/Main_gun_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Funnel in position
Looking at this photo I've just realised another "schoolboy error" - I've glued the for'd mast in place, thereby giving myself another problem - the yardarms, radar platforms etc,. will all have to be made "in situ" and that, I have no doubt, is going to be awkward to say the least ! >>:-(
Incidentally, the blocks of wood were used to get some idea of size/placement of the main gun.
Time for a brew methinks... <*<
Isn't scratch building fun ?
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Ray you seem to be having fun - will you be ready to launch it come the warmer weather
Geoff
-
Hi Ray, looking very nice. Did you cut out the rear deck as per the original for looks / a bit more access for the rudder or both? If you need a helicopter then please look at my posts, i did enquire. I have just had the plans you sent me blown up to 150% and will pass the original you sent to me to a fellow member who asked for them. I won't be starting mine just yet ( other boats to finish first ) but hopefully not too long. Those Halfords ' rattle cans ' seem to give a good finish on your boat, most impressed. Regards, Dave.
-
Geoff - I certainly hope to launch by, say the end of May or thereabouts. then I can get cracking on the next one - I've got quite a number of plans in the pipeline, most of them being the "freebies" from the magazines.
Dave - the rear deck cut out is mainly for rudder access. I'm thinking of disguising the opening with a lid with 3 x limbo launchers poking through the top and covered by green "canvas" (possibly shrink wrap or something). The limbo mortar well was definitely NOT covered over on the real vessel, but I feel that I must do something that looks ok AND keeps the water out.
Also, with regard to Helicopter, I'm not yet certain whether to put one on deck or just pretend it's stowed in the hanger. If I do go for "on deck, ready to fly" I'll be going for the WASP as that was the aircraft carried when I served on this vessel.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Pennant numbers, depth markings and anchors were tackled next (these were ordered from Cornwall Model Boats - excellent service), the hull was starting to look a bit grubby and it's high time it was given a protective coat of varnish.
Another problem was revealed when it came to applying the pennant letter / number - the sheets of decals (19mm), of which I ordered 2, only had 1 of each letter of the alphabet and I needed 3 :(( This was an oversight on my part - I'd forgotten about the pennant number on the stern !
Anyway, I got around this little problem by cutting the letter "E" to make another letter "F", so all was well. There are 4 of each number on each sheet so I was ok there.
(http://s8.postimg.org/4hvvl2ob9/Pennant_no_added.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
picture hosting (http://postimage.org/)
Pennant number added
Now came the depth markings...and I did the stupidest thing so far - cast your mind back to the time when you made Airfix planes - to finish them off you got waterslide transfers, remember ?
Yep, that's right, I cut from the sheet the required depth markings and sank them in a bowl of water, even though it states on the BECC packet that these are self adhesive vinyl %%
Fortunately, I managed to recover the situation by carefully scraping away the now soaking wet backing and the adhesive itself had remained dry, so onto the hull they went - good job I didn't throw the whole sheet in the water !
These were then finished off with warm air applied with the hair dryer to aid adhesion.
Next came the anchors; I decided at the outset not to attempt making the recessed anchor housings. Instead, I simply drilled a hole, elongated with a file, then shoved the anchor shank in and glued the flukes to the hull.
Earlier on I mentioned that the hull needs varnishing to protect the paintwork. (no prizes for guessing what happened next)
I was working on the superstructure using plasweld, with the superstructure in place on the hull and, in my enthusiasm, I left the lid off the bottle, caught it with my arm and spilled it on the workbench.
Some of the liquid came into contact with the black paintwork on the bottom of the hull and began eating the paint away.
(http://s17.postimg.org/e4oel5w5b/Aaaargh.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
image (http://postimage.org/)
Aaaargh !
oh well - more masking and spraying req'd.
In the meantime it's back to the superstructure.
Regards,
Ray.
-
just found this topic, I remember aged 16 I think I made the original up from the plans - it would have been about 1975-76, I have no idea what happened to the model, cant even remember if it ever got the radio gear in it. (I did it as part of a youth club group, the guy who ran the club came because his wife ran the badmington group - we made boats, planes (power and gliders) and we got a special deal on a horizon rc gear set).
Grendel
-
Hello Ray. I presume the Halfords rattle cans have given you a gloss finish? Is this not tough enough as a a finish or do you just want to ' mat ' it down a bit and protect the decals? I have heard of a spray from Chestnut products that may do the job but don't go off just what i suggest as i have not used it myself. Have just finished a night shift at my local super store and it's nice to read your build log with the house nice and quite, a hot cup of coffee and puffing away on my e-ciggie. :-) Regards, Dave.
-
This is looking realy good I have got the plans thanks Dave. I will be starting to build this model after i finish my HMS Sheffield (First scratch build). I am following this with interest keep up the good work and keep posting it is very informative details like colours used a real bonus
-
I must agree, it does look really good. Poor Ray must think he is a guinea pig with this one as i am allso following this build with interest. Can't wait for the next episode ( like having your own build manual on-line :-) Regards, Dave.
-
Like you Dave I often come in from nightwork and look at the threads before bed - a nice way to wind down.
Ray, I am enjoying your build too O0
Dave
-
Thank you all for your kind comments - they help a great deal in building up the enthusiasm to carry on - I must admit I was a bit apprehensive about starting this thread but the support shown by you guys is tremendous. :embarrassed: :D
To answer Davenotdone's question ref Halford's paints - you are quite correct, the varnish will indeed be used to "matt" the paintwork down (just hope it works...)
I'll try and put another update on later tonight - once our Guests have gone to bed >>:-( <*<
Regards,
Ray.
-
the support shown by you guys is tremendous. :embarrassed: :D
Yes, several of us do have tremendous supports. It's probably just an age thing Ray.
Dave
-
Yes, several of us do have tremendous supports. It's probably just an age thing Ray.
Dave
{-) {-) nice one !
Needed to make some fiddly bits of deck / bulkheads in the space between funnel and mast but leaving room for the boat davits (they will be tackled later).
The deck for the Seacat system and main mast was also started. The upper part was marked out first (birds eye view) to ascertain where each item will fit i.e. Seacat launchers, the guidance system and the footprint of the mainmast.
(http://s14.postimg.org/y9tt9c50x/Aft_superstructure_bases.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Seacat deck upper and lower.jpg
The lower portion differs considerably from the upper, as can be seen in the above.
So, lower portion was "welded" in place, bulkheads added (24 separate pieces) then a start made on various fittings, doors, hatch covers and etc.
This has to be done before the seacat deck goes on due to the limited access. (These bulkheads are only 20mm high).
Made up the 11 roundbar supports and dryfitted.
Supports were then removed and structure epoxy glued in place ready for undercoating.
(http://s18.postimg.org/ean7o52y1/Seacat_deck.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
After superstructure.jpg
The reason for removing the supports was that I still needed access to w/t doors for drilling holes for the dogging handles.
The handles are being made with 0.5mm wire, each handle being 3mm long x 1mm bent at 90 deg to fit into the holes.
This model has 21 w/t doors, each with 8 "dogs" - total req'd = 168, oh my eyes !
The shell of the mainmast was made up in the same manner as the foremast.
On we go - Applied P38 filler to the damage on bottom of the hull.
This was then set aside to dry.
The main superstructure was then given 1st coat of primer which highlighted a few areas that need filling and rubbing down. Bottom of the hull rubbed down, masked off, and given further 2 coats of matt black - waited just 10 mins then removed masking. A very slight ridge line was evident, this will be rubbed down later when the paint has fully dried.
(http://s11.postimg.org/3wqdqy777/Main_superstructure_grey_primer.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Primer.jpg
When the matt black was touch- dry, the superstructure was mounted, giving me some idea of how she's (hopefully) gonna look.
(http://s17.postimg.org/fz65vd47j/Primer_v_topcoat.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Primer v topcoat.jpg
Not too sure where to go next - time for another brew, or a whiskey or two, and see if we can come up with a forward plan.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Managed to get a bit more done...
Holes drilled in w/t doors for the "dogging" handles. Maintenance platform made up for for'd end of main mast. Seacat deck supports glued in position.
Start made on the bridge wings - had a few attempts at getting the bulkhead to stick to the bridgewing deck, tried different types of glue but, due to the curvature of the wings, I had an horrendous couple of hours trying to hold things in place but the plasticard kept springing off and tape wouldn't hold it in place. >:-o
So, in the time-honoured fashion, I made a brew and sat down for a thinking session.
This bulkhead is 14mm in height so I made up some bulkhead supports with 5mm bases and made then 13mm high. These were then glued at intervals along the length of the plasticard strip, leaving a 1mm gap at the bottom - this gave me sufficient gluing area along the length as the deck it was being glued to has a thickness of 1mm. The bulkhead supports also helped with alignment.
Finally got around to making a stand from a length of 12mm plywood. Made up the 2 cradles and these were glued & screwed in place then the whole thing was given a couple of coats of sanding sealer, 2 primer coats and 2 topcoats - all rubbed down between coats.
Remembered to use epoxy resin to seal holes where the anchor shanks enter the hull. It was then necessary to lightly spray the bow area when the resin was set. I didn't bother masking off for this - just used a piece of shaped card held in place to avoid any overspray.
When this was dry the hull was given a good clean up and 2 coats of spray varnish applied.
Made up the deck protectors for the anchor chain runs. Also made up the lips of the hawser holes from brass rod, bent around mini anvil and ends soldered. Used my new toy for this - soldering gun from Lidl - only cost a tenner !
(http://s11.postimg.org/54erfs4xf/deck_protection_plates.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
deck_protectors.jpg
Double bollard made for centre of foredeck. Also made up 2 capstans plus the 2 chainlocker feedpipes.
The anchor chains were then cut to size, painted and glued in place.
(http://s9.postimg.org/az3uigndr/anchor_chains.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
anchor_chains.jpg
Sorry about the blurry photos... :embarrassed:
Next came the w/t door handles. The sequence went as follows:-
Lift with tweezers, transfer to fingers, transfer to small pair smooth-jawed pliers (to avoid crushing marks) dip end of handle into blob of superglue and manoeuvre into previously drilled holes. Hold in place and press home with small length of scrap plastic. When dry, trim to final size with side cutters. Repeat the process 168 times !! %%
Somewhere in the process, for a break to the monotiny, lengths of mousemat backing were cut and glued to the cradles on the model's stand.
Felt type feet (the ones used on kitchen chairs etc..) were then added to the bottom of the stand.
Finally got to do some Basin (bath) trials to test for watertight integrity. No leaks detected - whoo hoo !
The model was riding a bit high up for'd but, because she has yet to be completed, decided not to add any ballast until later.
Another update to follow,
Regards,
Ray.
-
Back to the bridge wings...
The apertures for the navigation lights were marked out, 4 corners drilled with 0.5mm drill bit, joined the holes up with the Stanley knife (VERY carefully) then drilled out the waste with a 3mm drill bit and finished off with flat files.
(http://s18.postimg.org/yok1s8pg9/scratch_07_005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
wing_aperture.jpg
The nav light boxes were then made with scrap plastic, "welded" together then the completed boxes "welded" to the bridge wing apertures.
(http://s21.postimg.org/s7kns8obb/navlight_cutout.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
navlight_box.jpg
The 2 breakwater barriers were made up - 1 with convex bottom, the other with concave bottom - to take deck shape into account. These were cut to shape then 12 bulkhead supports added to each before final spraying.
Also made a start on the main armament. 3 blocks of balsa were glued together to form a squarish box shape, cut out part of the front portion for the barrel mechanism - just didn't look right.
So, decided instead to make the main shell of the turret from plasticard. Used the balsa block as a former and wrapped this plasticard around that. The front cut-out was tackled first. This required 2 apertures for the twin gun barrels, with a solid strip in between the two.
Each of the resultant hollows were then built up (inwards) on 3 sides.
Stripped down an old Futaba Tx, trimmed the "stick" controls to fit the gun apertures, cut 2 straws of just the right size to fit in the end holes of the "sticks" - this formed the rods for the brass barrels to fit over, a good tight fit was achieved.
(http://s13.postimg.org/poahlvm87/gun_shell.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
main_gun.jpg
P38 will be used to develop the shape of the turret - in the meantime, the barrels are only pushed into place, they will be glued later when the turret is finished and painted.
Regards,
Ray.
-
hey this is looking good. one of my favourite navy ships. you cant beat a good leander! im looking forward to seeing her sea trials :-))
-
168 Watertight door handles - jeepers Ray.
Real Dedication or just a Glue Addiction?
Dave
-
168 Watertight door handles - jeepers Ray.
Real Dedication or just a Glue Addiction?
Dave
Now that the glue fumes have dissipated...... {-) ......it's time for a little update.
The 2 breakwater assemblies were finally spray painted and glued in place. They were a bit fiddly to hold in place while the glue went off - note for future reference: incorporate brass pins to attach through the deck !
Next came the liferaft racks just abaft the bridge wings. The main frames were made up using copper coated mild steel and the 2 end "safety barriers" were shaped and soldered in place.
This was followed by wooden walkways on which the liferafts will sit later.
(http://s11.postimg.org/e46uo722b/scratch_07_030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
liferaft_rack.jpg
Also in the above photo can be seen the toprail on the bridge wing - this is just the outer insulation from a piece of electric wire which holds it's shape nicely and "grips" the plastic without the need for glue. It was a devil to get into place but once on should stay on. I'll add a couple of dabs of glue to it later "just in case".
Next came the chaff launchers. This is just a plastic platform with holes drilled to accept the support rods. The rods are glued to the platform and only just touch the main deck and come away with the superstructure when access required.
The launcher "tubes" are made from hollow plastic rod and "welded" together. The angle was achieved by simply inserting a white-capped drawing pin with the stem bent to the required angle - This can just be seen in the photo.
(http://s22.postimg.org/rmj4c9qk1/chaff_launcher.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
chaff_launcher.jpg
The structure with the blue bar was my 1st attempt at making the ships boats davits. These were cut from an old piece of perspex I had lying around but turned out looking awful.
Decided instead to make the davits out of plastic. Began by making a template for the lower section so that they would all turn out more or less the same.
Each "skid" is made in 2 halves, separated by a couple of pieces of scrap plastic, giving the impression of "stops" for the gravitational arms of the upper half of the davits.
(http://s14.postimg.org/nxcrclpvl/lower_davits.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
skids.jpg
The base for each set of davits was then made, along with a piece of rod to hold the sections together - the blue bar is just a rigid drinking straw - once painted this will not be so noticeable.
The upper arms of the davits were then drawn on a sheet of plastic, cut to shape (as always, oversize) then filed to final shape. The top of each arm was drilled to take a metal ring (from old jewellery) then the whole lot glued together.
Also made pins from brass rod to locate and hold davits in position. This is to help keep them in place when the superstructure is lifted.
As with the chaff launchers, the davits are not fixed to the deck. They will eventually be glued in position but not until after the model has been given its final topcoats.
In the meantime the davits will stay off the model for safety - and for painting white.
(http://s23.postimg.org/4fbt050or/boat_davits.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
gravity_davits.jpg
Note; I'm not attempting to make "realistic" falls on the davits - when I get the boats made they will just be hoisted giving the impression of being on falls - if that makes sense %%
.........and now it's BREW TIME !
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ray things are coming along very well - can I add - I have just checked my Leander Class books
and the Davits are painted grey on every photo in the book, the only ones with white davits are the
survey ships of that era
Geoff
-
Hi Ray. Must say it is looking good. When is the planned sail date?
Stan Reffin
Kirklees Model Boat Club. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
-
Hey Geoff - thanks for the info, the photo I was looking at was taken on a sunny day and the davits "appeared" to be white. But you are quite correct, they should be grey. That'll make spraying the model that little bit easier :-))
Hi Stan - I'm aiming for the end of May for sailing the model - if it's not totally finished it should at least be "almost there". I'll see you at the Harrogate Show if you're going again this year. O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ill be at Harroagte this year.
Stan
-
Time for another little update:-
Used P38 filler to achieve a better finish on the gun turret, sanded back and finished off with wet 'n dry, used wet.
The twin gun barrels were also rubbed down with wet 'n dry, used dry this time, to give the paint something to adhere to.
These were then sprayed with grey primer. When that was dry the barrels were finished off with Matt Black.
(http://s10.postimg.org/yj7diero9/Turret_sprayed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Turret_sprayed.jpg
(http://s8.postimg.org/4l3bmm8qd/Barrels_sprayed.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Barrels_sprayed.jpg
Turret and barrels were then put aside to dry.
Both sets of boat davits were then given a coat of grey primer then, when dry, were pinned to the superstructure.
The gun director, which I've made from bits and pieces, was also "primed". The dish on the director overhangs the bridge roof and so will not be glued in position until the model nears completion.
The limbo "cover" was given 2 coats of primer followed by "Ford Meadow Green" to match the deck colour.
(http://s14.postimg.org/k3p06dk5d/Limbo_Mortars.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Limbo_mortars.jpg
(http://s15.postimg.org/r5smuqrff/Limbo_almost_done.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Limbo_cover_painted.jpg
I wasn't happy with the finish on the balsa sides of the cover so I'm now in the process of covering over with thin plasticard which is being attached with 2 part epoxy resin.
.......more to follow.
Regards,
Ray.
-
In the photo (above) of the unpainted Limbo Mortar cover you can see some of my aborted attempts at making sets of "V-Bollards.
I've finally managed to make them up as follows: 1mm plasticard for the bases, 3mm copper coated mild steel for the bollard bodies - these were cut overlength to allow for angles to be filed top and bottom to achieve the "V" shape. These were then finished off with 0.5mm plasticard tops.
In the photo of the painted Limbo cover you can see one of these bollards on the Stbd quarter.
Here's a couple more bollards on the foredeck, near the anchor chain arrangement.
(http://s10.postimg.org/4zkwwfyqh/Foredeck_chains_and_bollards.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Foredeck_bollards.jpg
Incidentally, just for interest, the Limbo Mortars were made from 8mm brass tube, cut and angled to represent the mortars, then glued to a plastic base in a balsa frame. This is to give access to the rudder mechanism when required.
The next photo shows the boat davits in place having been sprayed with grey primer.
(http://s11.postimg.org/x1ctq8mtf/Boat_Davits.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Boat_davits.jpg
....and again from another angle
(http://s8.postimg.org/cm4l7t8l1/view_aft_section.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
After_section.jpg
Navigation lights:-
These will be non-operating and made up thus: Found some old plastic plugs of the type used in flat-pack furniture (see photo below). The "ridged" ends were cut off and found to be just the right size for the Nav Light apertures on this model's bridge wings. A little bit of tidying up and they were ready for painting. This was done using "Citadel Paints" as used by Warhammer modellers (of which I am one) Red for Port, Green for Stbd and "brass" effect for the nav light casings.
(http://s21.postimg.org/6jb7w8dpj/Navlight_plug.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Navlight_plug.jpg
(http://s23.postimg.org/9auhmuc8r/Navlights_painted.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Navlights_painted.jpg
The lights won't be fitted until topcoating is completed and the nav light apertures painted black.
Here's another couple of views of the model as she is at present:-
(http://s18.postimg.org/uac4b7frt/Birds_eye_view.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Birds_eye_view.jpg
(http://s11.postimg.org/ubh9y9u9v/Side_view.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Side_view.jpg
Next time, I'll be attempting to make the ships boats, motor launch for the Captain and whaler for the workboat.
Regards,
Ray.
-
24th April was the last time I managed to get anything done on the model. Now, at long last, I am able to return to my little workshop.
Needless to say, I've missed my projected sailing day by quite a large margin >:-o
I should know better than to make predictions :embarrassed:
Anyway, back to the build...
Decided to leave the ships boats until later - so next job was to get the mainmast radar sorted out.
This will be the only "working" feature on this model i.e. rotating.
First job was to find a way of fitting the motor. This was achieved by cutting through the seacat deck and down through 01 deck. I could have avoided this with a bit of forward planning but the decision to have a rotating radar head only came while the build was already in progress.
With the motor installed, the operating rod was inserted through the mainmast top and connected to the motor, which was then tested by connecting directly to a battery - all ok so far.
The motor will be operated from a single 1.5v battery. The battery holder was screwed to the underside of the superstructure, just behind the hangar door (see photo below).
The single pole on/off switch has been installed on the "maintenance platform" just for'd of the mainmast. Holes were drilled through 3 decks to pass the wiring from the on/off switch to the motor & battery connections.
(http://s24.postimg.org/d2tz60i5h/scratch_09_007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
switch_wiring.jpg
(http://s24.postimg.org/mrh2k08o5/scratch_09_009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
under_superstructure.jpg
The switch positive and battery positive were soldered together (same for the negatives). These were then connected to a choc-block then the positive of the radar motor was connected to the negative on the choc-block, the motor negative connected to the choc-block positive. This was done to achieve the correct rotation, that is, clockwise.
A folded length of paper tape was then affixed to the operating rod to show all working ok.
(http://s11.postimg.org/mdm1b37cj/scratch_09_013.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
paper_radar.jpg
Now, I just needed to build a convincing radar head O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
Made up a "maintenance box" to hide the radar on/off switch. This was pinned to the maintenance platform for security.
Decided at this point to carry out basin (bath) trials - all appears ok so far, she will need a small amount of ballast up for'd as the model is riding about 15mm high in accordance with the marked waterline.
Also decided to weigh the model so far...She comes in at a mere 4lb. Including the stand she has an all up weight of 6lb :-)
I'll compare that later with the completed (and ballasted) model.
The radar head was made with a piece of scrap 1mm copper wire, pulled taut with the vice and a pair of pliers. This was inserted through the hole just below the top of the operating rod. A piece of thin scrap aluminium was then cut to size and shaped on a former (just a bit of pine quadrant, left over from a DIY job). A piece of mesh, as used on car body repairs, was then wrapped around the aluminium then the whole thing was draped over the copper wire, held in place with clamps and finally glued up.
(http://s2.postimg.org/wpp4gprix/scratch_09_020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
aluminium_mesh.jpg
(http://s24.postimg.org/s6ykgkkth/scratch_09_018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
radar_head.jpg
A test run confirmed rotation with no binding evident - phew !
(http://s13.postimg.org/786yctwzr/scratch_09_024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
rotating_radar.jpg
The mesh will be dry-brush painted later
Regards,
Ray.
-
Next job - the yardarms. I've been dreading this: (a) Not at all certain how to tackle the job and (b) any misalignment will be obvious and could ruin the look of the model.
After giving it some thought I decided to start with the Port & Stbd arms on the mainmast. These consist of a "tripod" type structure with underhang and vertical bars.
I could make these with plastic rod but I feel that, over time, they may have a tendency to warp. Therefore I'm going to try with what I have in stock - copper coated mild steel.
First job then, was to ascertain the angles between the upper (horizontal) bar and the 2 supporting bars - these make up the aforementioned tripod.
The angle was, first off, drawn and measured off.
(http://s22.postimg.org/hagg2pnoh/Angle_on_card.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
angle_on_card.jpg
This was then used as a guide for making up a jig so that, hopefully, they'll all turn out the same. %)
The rod for the first tripod was cut to the required lengths (32mm for the horizontal and 34mm for the angled supports) and secured on the jig, which is simply a strip of wood with the 3 holes drilled to accept the pieces of rod (2 angled so that they meet up, ready for soldering).
(http://s13.postimg.org/q58qx8rqv/Tripod_jig.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
tripod_jig.jpg
Sorry about the quality of some of the photos.
Flats were filed on the 3 pieces so they would sit together nicely.
Once happy with the arrangement the solder was applied. Now came the awkward part - finding the horizontal and drilling the mast to accept the tripods. Incidentally, the hanging parts will be added later, mainly coz I don't know how I'm going to achieve this.
So, used and old adjustable science lab stand/support along with a length of hard plastic drawer runner to rest the soldered up tripod on.
Spent a good half hour setting up both the apparatus and the model to ensure the horizontal planes were correct.
(http://s21.postimg.org/mnkhvnu5j/Setting_Horizontal.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
setting_horizontal.jpg
(http://s21.postimg.org/e1ltot7jb/Confirming_Position.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
confirming_position.jpg
(http://s23.postimg.org/3u4ny8prv/Final_Checks.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
final_checks.jpg
The yardarm was then offered up to the mast, checked for squareness, then the mast marked up for drilling.
The yardarm was then pushed into place and checked again - all ok.
(http://s18.postimg.org/g4eu9jpux/Portside_Result.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
portside_result.jpg
The stbd yardarm was tackled in the same manner, as can be seen below:-
Now I'm off for a headscratch - how am I going to affix the peripherals ?
(http://s18.postimg.org/qtx4fjr1l/Stbd_setting.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stbd_setting.jpg
(http://s13.postimg.org/g50kj15rr/Stbd_Result.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stbd_result.jpg
Incidentally, the yardarms are just pushed into their respective positions, not yet fixed in place.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Decided to glue the yardarms in position after that last update. I didn't fancy setting the apparatus up all over again to obtain the horizontal %%
The "cone" shaped sensors (can't remember the designation for these) were tackled next.
Tried a few different ways of making these - even tried using byro pen nibs but they just didn't look right.
A while ago I obtained a packet of toy soldiers from the £1 shop. For some reason the bazooka had, at the rear end, a cone shaped protrusion which looked about right so these were cut off and pressed into service.
(http://s21.postimg.org/88fj45xp3/Bazooka_bit.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bazooka_bit.jpg
The best method of attaching these to the yardarms was by using 5 min epoxy - this gave me time to make any necessary adjustments before the glue went off.
(http://s22.postimg.org/l1uabyjs1/Upper_cones.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upper_cones.jpg
Next came the problem of attaching the lower cones. Solved this one by using one of those plastic collapsable baskets to support the superstructure during this procedure.
(http://s10.postimg.org/vw6x2i0sp/Basket_support.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
basket_support.jpg
The next photo shows the lower cone in position while the glue is going off...
(http://s18.postimg.org/mzwevfaix/Lower_cone.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
lower_cone.jpg
-
Moved on to the foremast. I needed a platform located at the top of the mast.
Made a plastic sleeve first, to fit over the mast, then the platform itself, in balsa, was attached to that.
I then used some scrap 0.5mm plasticard to make the angled plates which support the main platform.
Next came the radar base frame. This was just 4 x short lengths of the mild steel roundbar set at angles to the base. A piece of scrap plastic was set on top of these and, finally, a piece of 3mm balsa was cut and sanded to shape to represent the radar head.
(http://s12.postimg.org/ha79h0sjx/Foremast_platform.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
mast_platform
Next came the upper mast, located just behind the radar.
Drilled the platform to accept a short piece of copper tube which will be the sleeve for the mast, which will be removeable for ease of transportation to and from the lake.
The upper mast itself is also a length of copper tube.
(http://s10.postimg.org/79k8wf5op/Top_mast.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upper_mast.jpg
Found a length of round plastic, with a moulded cone shape on the end, which was a good fit inside the mast, so this was used as a base for the aerial array at the very top.
I then needed 4 x "T.V. style" arms radiating from the centre.
These were made from some magazine clips, cut down to suit and filed down to create "flats" so that 0.25mm holes could be drilled in them for the aerial elements.
(http://s14.postimg.org/txxq5v55d/Radial_arms.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
radial_arms.jpg
The elements were made from some fine copper wire - stretched taut - then cut into 1cm lengths and mounted on the arms.
Once glued in place the elements were trimmed down using a triangular piece of scrap plastic as a guide.
(http://s21.postimg.org/nu6jmihuf/Mast_array.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
mast_array.jpg
Hope to get a bit more done soon...
Regards,
Ray.
-
Lovely job Ray.
The cone shaped aerials are actually
UHF TxRx aerials.
Usually known as 'Christmas Trees'
Ned Ex HMSJuno.
-
Usually known as 'Christmas Trees'
Yep, that's the ones Ned :-))
They had a specific alpha/numeric designation but the old memory won't recall it - so Christmas Trees it is :D
Regards,
Ray.
-
Looking superb, being following this thread and you have defo made a sterling good job of your first scratch build. If she sails as half as good as she looks then she will be the envy of the pond.
Si:)
-
Ray my memory may be playing tricks but I believe that aerial on the masthead will be
the passive intercept aerial of the UA13 - Ariadne did have it fitted at some time in her
service.
Geoff
-
Yep, that's the ones Ned :-))
They had a specific alpha/numeric designation but the old memory won't recall it - so Christmas Trees it is :D
Regards,
Ray.
AJE's Methinks
Ned
-
Ned, Geoff & Si,
Thank you very much indeed for your feedback...
Geoff - received your PM - it appears that the whole of my previous posting has been abducted. I'll re-do it later on tonight after the dogwalk.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Moved on to the foremast. I needed a platform located at the top of the mast.
Made a plastic sleeve first, to fit over the mast, then the platform itself, in balsa, was attached to that.
I then used some scrap 0.5mm plasticard to make the angled plates which support the main platform.
Next came the radar base frame. This was just 4 x short lengths of the mild steel roundbar set at angles to the base. A piece of scrap plastic was set on top of these and, finally, a piece of 3mm balsa was cut and sanded to shape to represent the radar head.
(http://s15.postimg.org/sbi485mnv/Foremast_platform.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
foremast_platform.jpg
Next came the upper mast, located just behind the radar.
Drilled the platform to accept a short piece of copper tube which will be the sleeve for the mast, which will be removeable for ease of transportation to and from the lake.
The upper mast itself is also a length of copper tube.
(http://s11.postimg.org/6dfjfiz9f/Top_mast.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
top_mast.jpg
Found a length of round plastic, with a moulded cone shape on the end, which was a good fit inside the mast, so this was used as a base for the aerial array at the very top.
I then needed 4 x "T.V. style" arms radiating from the centre.
These were made from some magazine clips, cut down to suit and filed down to create "flats" so that 0.25mm holes could be drilled in them for the aerial elements.
(http://s13.postimg.org/x6cv7ra13/Radial_arms.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
radial_arms.jpg
The elements were made from some fine copper wire - stretched taut - then cut into 1cm lengths and mounted on the arms.
Once glued in place the elements were trimmed down using a triangular piece of scrap plastic as a guide.
(http://s15.postimg.org/qlhx90fln/Mast_array.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
mast_array.jpg
Nothing else done so far...hope to carry on with the foremast later in the week.
Regards,
Ray.
-
I didn't realise just how long it has been since the last update :o
Now that the pressures of the summer are easing off (Allotment, holidays, decorating etc...) I can get back into it.
So, the foremast yardarms were made up in the same manner as the mainmast ones.
(http://s14.postimg.org/4jdod2c0x/Foremast_yardarms_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
foremast_yardarms.jpg
The angle between the horizontal yard and the supports is different from that of the mainmast so made up another jig to suit.
The yards were aligned in the same way as the mainmast ones, positions marked and holes drilled to accommodate the structure.
(http://s7.postimg.org/6ea3dvyjf/Alignment_rig_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
alignment_rig.jpg
(http://s24.postimg.org/6rg6ghptx/Arms_in_place_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
arms_in_place.jpg
Made up the foremast ladder (etched brass) and glued in place - this had to be done now as the next item to make and fit was the D/F platform.
This was made up using plasticard with mild steel round bar for the supporting legs.
My first attempt to make the D/F loops went as follows - a length of soft copper wire, stretched taut, was wound around a circular former a few times. This "coil" was then cut through at opposing sides so that the resultant "C" shapes could be lined up for soldering together to form the 2 D/F loops.
(http://s23.postimg.org/vihuhmfsr/df_loops_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
df_loops.jpg
A hole was drilled in the platform to mount the loops using a small split-pin, then the whole thing was mounted onto the foremast, whereupon the whole lot sprang apart >:-o
The second attempt: Drilled a hole in a piece of wood and inserted the "stem" of the d/f mounting pin (made of mild steel this time) and placed a miniature brass eyelet over this (inverted) and soldered together - this gave me a sound base on which to mount the 2 loops. So, this was soldered up and mounted onto the platform and finally pinned and glued to the foremast, being careful to ensure the unit was centrally located.
(http://s21.postimg.org/z8lkhaq53/df_in_place_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
df_in_position.jpg
More work on the foremast to follow - tomorrow ?
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ray.......many...many years ago I was involved in the refit of the Vickers 4.5" twin mount on our HMAS Parramatta here in Sydney........are you going to add the Gun Captains :o claustrophobic Perspex viewing box? [located on the STDB aft quarter of the mounting] ..............
NB....the image below is of a DE....with twin 4.5's FWD ....& twin 4.5's AFT.......[A, B, X & Y].........they were a brilliantly reliable gun......however >>:-( the hydraulic systems leaked to such a degree, the sailors wore raincoats in the gun house O0 Derek
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/HMAS-Vampire-D11-01_crop%28113mmL45aag%29.jpg/220px-HMAS-Vampire-D11-01_crop%28113mmL45aag%29.jpg) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HMAS-Vampire-D11-01_crop(113mmL45aag).jpg)
-
Rear view on H.M.A.S. Vampire.
I have more pictures of Vampire if you need them.
-
Thanks Brian..........that is the "A" [or FWD] mounting on Vampire ..........provides a much better image of the Gun Captains (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/Smileys/Tug/shocked.gif) claustrophobic perspex viewing box ......
I {-) jokingly called it perspex....when they were 2.5" thick armour plated glass panes . O0 ..................Derek
-
Derek & Brian,
Thank you very much indeed for those superb photo's - not sure I want to add a lot of detail on this model's gun although I will probably add the viewing box.
With permission, I will save those photo's for future reference - will be looking to scratch build more detailed models in the future when, hopefully my modelling skills have improved somewhat %)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Next came another radar platform higher up the mast but needs to be angled further to the Port side.
The platform was made up from some scrap plasticard.
The radar is made from some items from the "bits box", drilled, then mounted on a mild steel framework. The radar frame was then epoxied onto the platform and put aside to harden off.
A dry fit showed it looked ok so the unit was glued in place.
Realised at this point that the upper mast has 2 supporting beams from just behind the uppermost radar.
So, the angles were worked out, 2 rods cut to size and soldered to the mast.
These will lift away when the upper mast is removed for transport / storage.
Now needed to make the uppermost signals yard. For the top, mild steel rod, then used a short length of etched-brass ladder, with every 2nd & 3rd rung removed, and mounted this horizontally onto the underside of the top bar and soldered in place.
The supporting struts (2 legs each side) were then soldered up in inverted "V" fashion and set in place on the platform.
Then, with heatsinks in place, the yard was soldered to the supports.
(http://s18.postimg.org/5t7thkwgp/Lower_radar_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upper_mast.jpg
(http://s21.postimg.org/5rynghiev/Upper_yards_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
upper_yards.jpg
Consideration was now given to the layout of the ICS/2 main comms aerials.
I'll be running 4 lines between the masts with corresponding down leads which will need terminating.
1 terminal runs into the mainmast, the other to a fixture at the foot of the foremast. so these were made up and fitted now rather than when all the "wires" are strung up as that would just be asking for trouble.
Here's the one at the foot of the foremast.
(http://s17.postimg.org/ewj9lbf4f/Drop_link_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
foremast_link.jpg
Hoping to get the Seacat missile system sorted next O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
Made the Seacat director up with bits of plasticard, the dish was finished off by soldering up 3 x radial arms and the centre probe then mounted to the structure and the whole unit was then epoxied into position.
Seacat Launcher: Once again, this was made with off-cuts of plasticard, along with a centre "cone". The missile loading carriages were each made in a jig and soldered before mounting onto their respective launch pads.
(http://s15.postimg.org/81fvul1a3/Seacat_system_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
seacat_system.jpg
Note: Some Leanders had two sets of quad-missile platforms but Ariadne only carried the one, hence the director mounted to stbd and the launcher to Port.
Next:The missile bodies were carved from wood and sanded down ready for painting.
(http://s24.postimg.org/qkcpm0nit/Missile_body_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
missile_body.jpg
The missile stabilizing fins were marked onto 0.5mm plastic and cut out then filed to final shape.
(http://s9.postimg.org/40jag67z3/Stabilizers_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stabilizers.jpg
Slots were then cut into the missile bodies with the stanley knife and fins inserted.
Incidentally, the vast majority of my marking out has been done with a fine tipped felt pen (as used for writing on blank CDs). Pencil lines tend to fade during handling and Biro tends to leave grooves in the material.
Here's the first missile in position on a dry run:-
(http://s8.postimg.org/cjcb3tqyt/First_missile_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
first_missile.jpg
....and all four in position, again this is dry run only as they have yet to be painted.
(http://s23.postimg.org/ss5polfjf/Missiles_ready_jpg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
missiles_ready.jpg
When the model nears completion the painted missiles will be pinned and glued for stability / safety.
........we're getting there, slowely but surely :-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ray....here is a good link for the GWS 2x [Seacat] launcher
From memory.... :o dummy test missiles were white with BLUE tips......and active missiles were BLUE with RED tips
So either way you could depict your vessel as in shore/harbour with white birds or at sea with blue birds O0
One of the crazy %% things was that the American marine missile systems that we also used on our HMA vessels had blue birds as
dummy test missiles & white birds as the real item........ <*< .....Derek
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CEEQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2Fdavids_world_2011%2F5932728417%2F&ei=lyUtUu2hKKWtiAfQuIGADA&usg=AFQjCNE9AkVGZ9msiyVJ1KmqPKH6oaly6w (http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CEEQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2Fdavids_world_2011%2F5932728417%2F&ei=lyUtUu2hKKWtiAfQuIGADA&usg=AFQjCNE9AkVGZ9msiyVJ1KmqPKH6oaly6w)
-
I thought Seacat dummies were blue and live missiles were white with yellow fins.
-
I thought Seacat dummies were blue and live missiles were white with yellow fins.
My memory tells me the same.
Ned
-
mmm...you certainly could be correct....... >:-o here are a few GWS2x missiles on display from WIKI pages ...I will find the WIKI page & add it here..............
Certainly in OZ......missiles on display were inert or dummies........Derek
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/Seacat_Seawolf_IWM_Duxford.JPG/220px-Seacat_Seawolf_IWM_Duxford.JPG) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Seacat_Seawolf_IWM_Duxford.JPG)
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Short_Tigercat_2_-_Elvington_-_BB.jpg/220px-Short_Tigercat_2_-_Elvington_-_BB.jpg) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Short_Tigercat_2_-_Elvington_-_BB.jpg)
These are listed as INERT training rounds....
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CDgQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FSea_Cat&ei=nUQuUq7gD8m1iAeOtICADw&usg=AFQjCNHQyHiVykk1jrKY1nGy_oKiQn1maQ (http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CDgQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FSea_Cat&ei=nUQuUq7gD8m1iAeOtICADw&usg=AFQjCNHQyHiVykk1jrKY1nGy_oKiQn1maQ)
-
The NATO rule was blue for dummy warheads, although I recall that it was changed to gold/copper colour about a decade ago.
Tom
-
There is certainly some confusion within various systems/protocols here >>:-(
Seacat missile systems are now obsolete in OZ
Our Australian warships with the FMC manufactured GMLS13 system did and still do use BLUE [surface to air] dummy or [TSAM] 'test 'missiles ....they have a sharp pointed cone on the pointy end <*<
These are the ones displayed on the missile launcher guide arm when ships are in harbour or alongside
Harpoon missiles [technically capable of being armed or fired] as used in the same systems are all white with a domed head
The only time one could see a white Harpoon missile on a launcher would be during a loading operation from a barge to the dolly on deck to the guide arm .... then lowered into the vertical magazine
Note for Ray.....sorry was only trying to be helpful :embarrassed: ........maybe just paint the GWS20x missiles grey........ unless someone can resolve the colour coding for UK missiles .........
Note for Tom........as a courtesy, Australia may abide with the rules of NATO, but certainly were not a signature member of that group...ie., we are not part of the North Atlantic.......................Derek
-
Derek,
That is indded the relevant point, we are not part of NATO. :-)) :-))
The Army, also used white for training/inert munitiopns, eg practice grenades were white with holes drilled in the body.
-
WOW - didn't realise there were so many differences with these missile colours :o
.....should have taken more notice while in the service >:-o
My thanks to you all for your input O0
Nothing more done on the model to date - getting back to it soon I hope :embarrassed:
Note for Derek: No need for any apologies mate - ALL information welcome here... :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ray - from what I can remember from the Explosives Museum the live Seacat Missiles were white bodies with bronze coloured fins and
nose cone - the Dummy missiles were all dark green with red nose cones
Geoff
-
Here's a link to a photo of a Seacat launcher: http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1699975 (http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1699975)
Shows the colours quite nicely.
Tom
-
{-) ...will it ever end Ray?......
The image of the GSW2x launcher displayed by Tom is a WWII vintage vessel.........nothing like your Ardine.........just look at the main gun mounting
Having said this, you have at least two choices :(( ...paint the missiles White with coloured tips if you are depicting your vessel as along side or in a harbour area, or paint them Blue with coloured tips if the vessel is representative of being at sea
The only time that real missiles are placed on launchers is if real war games are being conducted, or on deployment in a real potential war zone.....an example of the latter would have been during the Falkland campaign, live missiles would have been on the GWS20x launcher 24/7
Remembering >:-o if live missile's were Blue, they would have been removed from the launcher & stored in the missile magazine prior to the vessel entering harbour or coming along side....Derek
-
Just as an aside,
For the naval types.
Would it not then be protocol, for all missile armed vessels, to only display inert missiles, in port, much like the old gun salute, which was to empty cannons to show peace and friendship upon entering a harbour. {:-{ {:-{
-
Finally got around to doing a bit more.
Made up "mesh" guardrails for the seacat deck.
(http://s17.postimg.org/viw8gbqan/mesh_guardrail.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
mesh_guardrail.jpg
The mesh was made from some old loudspeaker mesh, cut into strips, then attached with 1mm brass rod uprights and pinned into the seacat deck.
These uprights were made to replace the originals, which I had terminated flush with the seacat deck. Originals were 2cm high. The replacements are 3cm high to accommodate the 1cm high "mesh" guardrails.
While the glue was hardening off I turned my attention to the AJE's for the foremast.
I couldn't find anymore of those toy soldiers with the bazookas (see reply no.49) so I decided to attempt to mould some.
Made up a small batch of P38 and pressed my one remaining "AJE" into it and left it to harden off.
I know that moulds are normally made in 2 halves but for this job I did it in a "oner".
When set, the "mould" was cut in half, thus releasing the original. Now, the 2 halves were taped back together and the mould was filled with glue using a "cool-melt" glue gun.
Made a nice mug of tea while the glue set. O0
Released the mould and freed the copy. This just needed a little trimming with a craft knife and I had the result I was after.
The remaining 7 copies were made from the same mould.
A point to note: Each moulding needs some sort of releasing agent - in this case I just lightly coated the mould with vaseline, applied with a small artist's brush (12 for £1 in some corner shops!)
Try as I might, I just couldn't get any decent photo's during this process, this one is the best I could get - oh dear...
(http://s23.postimg.org/lrv9x8ybv/basic_mould.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
basic_mould.jpg
Once all mouldings had been trimmed they were mounted using 5 minute epoxy, minor adjustments to their orientation being carried out whilst the glue was going off.
(http://s18.postimg.org/b5t18bi89/more_uje.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
more_aje.jpg
...another update to follow shortly
Regards,
Ray.
-
Here's another attempt at getting a photo - the mesh rail can just about be seen...
(http://s23.postimg.org/o8kzajx6z/mesh_on.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
mesh_on.jpg
Next came the etched-brass ladders - 12 altogether - these can be quite difficult to manipulate due to the flimsy material and so easy to bend out of shape and nigh impossible to get back into shape however, they were all eventually cut to size and glued into place.
Then came the vertical (or near vertical) antennae: 9 in total on this model.
These were cut from mild steel rod (again) and set into rubber bases - these were just some rubber "feet" of the type used to mount bits of I.T. equipment.
Once glued in position the antennae were covered with plastic drinks straws to help to avoid injuries - they will only be removed for sailing sessions - and for painting of course ;)
(http://s10.postimg.org/p3gumil55/antennae_array.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
antennae_array.jpg
(http://s22.postimg.org/55gz30uxd/aerial_guards.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
aerial_guards.jpg
The whole of the superstructure was then given another coat of primer, hopefully to get everything blended in.
(http://s22.postimg.org/p1hjwb1ch/primed_again.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
primed_again.jpg
Some of the etched-brass ladders can be seen in this shot - wonderful what a lick of paint can do - now she's beginning to look more like a warship O0
With a bit of luck I'll get the top-coat on tomorrow, then the superstructure will at least match the hull.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Just as an aside,
For the naval types.
Would it not then be protocol, for all missile armed vessels, to only display inert missiles, in port, much like the old gun salute, which was to empty cannons to show peace and friendship upon entering a harbour. {:-{ {:-{
IIRC, the launchers were kept empty unless missiles were about to be launched. Nowadays, missiles usually come prepackaged in launch tubes. Crane the launch tube into position, tighten the bolts, plug the wiring harness in, and that's all there is to it.
Tom
-
IIRC, the launchers were kept empty unless missiles were about to be launched. Nowadays, missiles usually come prepackaged in launch tubes. Crane the launch tube into position, tighten the bolts, plug the wiring harness in, and that's all there is to it.
Tom
Thank you :-)) :-))
-
Sorry Tom........ :o ....best get our understanding....... thoughts/facts in gear....... >>:-( being simplistic suggests a missile in your next box of Corn Flakes........ :(( .....not so ...........may I ask what is your experience/qualification to make such comments?.......Derek
-
Comments based only upon observations of the USN warships that I've sailed in company with. Sorry!
The RCN Halifax-class frigates carry vertical-launch Sea Sparrow missiles, and they are in tubes when installed. I don't know if they come from the factory packaged this way, or if they are packed at the Magazine where we get them.
I was in HMCS Montreal's commissioning crew, and her Harpoon missiles hadn't been installed back then. We just had the empty brackets, and junction boxes for the missiles' cables.
Tom
-
Well that's certainly qualification to comment O0
Some missiles are loaded into individual cells, some are loaded into magazines
I think our Australian Anzac class frigates [German MEKO] have 8 sea sparrow + 8 harpoon cells, our FFG's & DDG's each had a magazine capable of 40 holding harpoon/standard [SSM-SAM] missiles >>:-( ...although I had never witnessed a full magazine.....come to think of it :o at the time, our RAN probably shared 40 missiles between 6 ships
I did witness two standard SSM firings at sea........over the horizon to the target..............most impressive....they were fondly termed as "woosh-bangs" {-)
-
Had to wait a good while to get the topcoat spraying done.
Got it done eventually though. :-))
Then it was onto the bridge window "glass" - this was a strip of coloured packaging that I'd saved years ago and knew it would come in handy one day - so this was cut to size and glued in place with "Formula 560" canopy glue.
I've had this bottle for 15 years now and it still does the job, doesn't craze and dries clear - lovely stuff.
(http://s24.postimg.org/9qdpvlq8l/bridge_windows.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bridge_windows.jpg
The nav light apertures were masked off and painted black.
When dry the Port & Stbd lamps were glued in place. Also, now that the bridge windows have been installed, the bridge roof cap was glued in place, along with the fwd gun director.
Then came the ships boats.
The captain's motor launch was tackled first.
Glued 4 pieces of 10mm square balsa together, pencilled in the shape of the boat and sanded to shape. Used 1mm plasticard for the after keel section, with fixed kort from round tube.
Made up the wheelhouse/cabin from another section of 10mm x 10mm balsa.
The whaler for the stbd side was made in a similar fashion.
The resultant hulls were then given a coat of sanding sealer and, when dry, this was sanded smooth ready for painting.
The 2 boats were then painted and little bits added: tinted windows on the launch and split pins for the lifting / lowering eyes.
The whaler was given a couple of athwartships seats and the split pin eyes.
The boat chocks were then added to the davits, along with the rigging ropes, which have been given a good pull through the saddle soap.
The liferaft cannisters were made up and painted. It took a few attempts to get the straps and central rubber seals looking straight, but we more or less got there in the end.
The funnel was masked off for black topping, indication worn by Sqn Ldr - in this instance "Leader 7th Frigate Squadron".
I had not thought of doing this earlier in the build. A pity really, as this would have saved me a real headache in the masking up dept (see photo). Absolutely every part of the superstructure had to be masked off to get this one little job done >>:-(
Used a combination of cereal packet card, newspaper and tape to achieve this.
(http://s8.postimg.org/tf8ky153p/funnel_spray.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
funnel_spray.jpg
While this was drying off, the portholes were filled with the canopy glue and left to dry - result, clear glazing.
The liferaft cannisters were glued in place (epoxy ), portholes glued in place (cyano).
BECC numeral "7" added each side of the funnel, denoting 7th frigate sqn.
The 9 vertical aerials were given a couple of coats of white paint which seemed, to me, to bring the model to life...used bits of printer paper to mask off the aerial bases as these were to remain grey, apart from the one on the main gun.
Selected a length of cordage to represent halyards.
This was pulled through saddle soap, twisting at the same time to ensure the whole length was well covered.
More to follow.......
Regards,
Ray.
-
The idea of the saddle soap is the same as using beeswax - to minimise the chances of the cordage becoming "hairy" over time and sort of makes it water resistant.
Decided on just one set of halyards to each foremast main yard and one central behind the mast to carry the ensign.
(http://s18.postimg.org/g5kyza0g9/halyards_rigged.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
halyards_rigged.jpg
The horizontal aerial arrangement for the ICS1/2 comms run between the main and foremast.
Attempted to represent these using thin strands of fine copper wire twisted together with the battery drill and attached to the vice to get it nice and tight.
I couldn't get them to maintain shape when attached to the yards so they were abandoned.
Tried using rigging thread but that looked awful, so opted in the end for shirring elastic.
(http://s15.postimg.org/972pga3rv/ICS_wires.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
ICS_wires
This was a bit of a nightmare to tie into place but eventually got it done.
Seacat Missiles: These were sprayed with Halfords grey primer (2 coats) then top-coated with "BMW" alpine white. - halfords obviously recommend white primer but I didn't want the missiles looking too bright, hence the grey primer.
These were then left to harden off for 24hrs, after which the stabilizing fins were painted with "beaten copper" (citadel paints) along with the 2 rings on the nose-cone. (more or less in line with the suggested colour scheme by "Pugwash")
When dry, the missiles were glued to the launcher.
(http://s15.postimg.org/ffapo0e57/missiles_ready.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
missiles_ready.jpg
Now the whole of the upperworks were sprayed with clear matt varnish.
All that remained was to carry out ballasting in the test tank (i.e. the bath)
More to follow......
Regards,
Ray.
-
The model was almost on the correct waterline - just needed a small quantity of lead just in front of bulkhead number 3 and she was spot on :-))
Next came the weigh in.
Model weight (all up, inc batteries) = 7lb
Model with stand / cradles = 9.5lb
All that remained now was sea trials.
(http://s12.postimg.org/4j7lw7osd/final_checks.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
weather_watch.jpg
(http://s16.postimg.org/swvu3hvcl/final_check2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
ready.jpg
Finally, it was down to the lake (today). A fresh NNW'ly blowing but not too bad...
(http://s24.postimg.org/h7iu3zjth/carboot_fit.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
carboot_fits.jpg
(http://s24.postimg.org/522tl2jv9/good_fit.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
good_fit.jpg
As can be seen, the model is a good fit across the boot of the car. Notice the aerial protectors (straws) are in place <*<
One final photo before sea trials:
(http://s17.postimg.org/je995epov/lake_prep.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
lake_prep.jpg
Last minute checks then off she goes.
(http://s23.postimg.org/inq7s5btn/sea_trial.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
sea_trials.jpg
(http://s7.postimg.org/ajbjgy3gr/acceptance_trial.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
acceptance_trials
Sorry for the poor sailing images - cheap camera poor weather = poor photo's.
Better than nowt though....
Regards,
Ray.
-
Congratulations Ray....she looks good on the water.... :-)) ...Derek
-
Cheers Derek - just a pity I couldn't get a bit of video footage, she heels over just like the real thing on a power turn. Got to be aware of wind direction though.
Overall, I'm really pleased with the result and looking forward to my next sailing session with her.
In the meantime, I'll sort through my sets of plans to decide what to build next... %)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ray,
If you wanted a bit more stability you could ballast her a bit deeper as she looks to sit rather high.
Bob
-
Thanks Bob - I'll carry out further trials over the coming weeks in various weather conditions and see how it goes... :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Ray,
She looks good, would hate to see a strong gust of wind set her over or even turn her into a "fine weather" model.
These hulls were arguably one of the best sea boats in the RN.
Bob
-
These hulls were arguably one of the best sea boats in the RN.
Bob
Couldn't agree with you more Bob - I served on Ariadne & Penelope and loved it - then Drafty decided I would love Submarines even more >>:-( >>:-(
Regarding the model though - with it being based on an "easy build" hull - she is flat bottomed and loses some of that ability to "cut through" the water, so she will need constant watching O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
Well done Ray - nice to see it finished - if you do have a stability problem you could do what I did with Aisne
which was to fit a small removable keel with a lead bulb and can be removed to fit on its stand. It now sails
very realistically in all weathers without any worries. Paint the keel and bulb dark grey and it cannot be seen
underwater. I did have trouble with a gun Leander |HMS Juno - it was so unstable it now sits in its case in the lounge and has
never been further that the bath (in which it almost turned turtle)
Geoff
-
Looks great Ray :-))
I particularly like the horizontal aerial arrangement in shirring elastic - very neat. I bet that took a good few attempts to get right.
Dave
-
Hi ya Ray
Your model is looking really good and looks nice on the lake. You have made a grand job of it.
What's your next build. Another grey? or something completely different. It's a strange feeling when you have finished a model that you have enjoy doing I always think. You feel like you have lost something.
So get building another good un; out with the plans mate and have a shufty through them.
aye
john
-
I wasn't sure about your build at first, now I want one! Good job!
-
You have made a cracking job of her Ray pity I could not get down to the lake yesterday to see her first sea trials, never mind no doubt I will see her over the next few weeks. :-)) :-)) :-))
-
no doubt I will see her over the next few weeks. :-)) :-)) :-))
Yep, you will indeed Brian, intend sailing weekly - weather permitting of course.
I wasn't sure about your build at first, now I want one! Good job!
Go for it ! I had my doubts at first but that's just a self-confidence thing. It's a grand feeling when the model gets onto the lake O0
It's a strange feeling when you have finished a model that you have enjoy doing I always think. You feel like you have lost something.
So get building another good un; out with the plans mate and have a shufty through them.
aye
john
You're spot on there John - and the empty workbench just doesn't look right {:-{
I bet that took a good few attempts to get right.
Dave
It certainly was difficult, tying the knots then accidently cutting too close and the whole lot falling was really frustrating %%
Found out eventually that snagging can be avoided by 1. Don't wear a watch 2. Roll your sleeves up out of the way 3. Work from the inside lines outover and 4. Don't try to do it all in one session - stop and have a brew.
fit a small removable keel with a lead bulb and can be removed to fit on its stand.
Geoff
That sounds feasible - thanks for the info Geoff :-))
.....and thank you to all for your kind comments and, of course, your interest and input into this build.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi All, I've resurrected this blog because last Tuesday I Finally, finally, managed to get a bit of footage of the model on the water!!!
Here's the link to the youtube vid.
-
Trying again...
https://youtu.be/h7jSpqBt2Js
Hope it works now?
-
Yep! Definitely working now...
...that bloomin' gull nearly got me <*<
Aye,
Ray.
Note: a lot of my photos on this blog have been taken off by the image hosting site however, I know I've got them stored away on another of my old laptops so can get them back up if there's any further interest in the actual build :-))
-
Yep! Definitely working now...
...that bloomin' gull nearly got me <*<
Aye,
Ray.
Note: a lot of my photos on this blog have been taken off by the image hosting site however, I know I've got them stored away on another of my old laptops so can get them back up if there's any further interest in the actual build :-))
HI Ray yes id be instrested in seein the build pics as i love the type 12 is it ? an one of my freinds was starting to build HMS CHARBLISS is it ? but the poor chap whent an died when he was just into the build an he was only 51 yrs old what a pity
chrisb :-))
-
Hi there Chris, many thanks for your response and, when I get a chance, I'll dig them photos out and put them up.
Sad to hear about your friends passing and the 'Cherry B' was a Leander frigate - HMS Charybdis (F75) was a Leander-class frigate of the Royal Navy. She was built by the Harland & Wolff company of Belfast, and was the last ship to be built there for British naval forces until RFA Fort Victoria of the Royal Fleet Auxiliary, was launched in 1990.
Anyway, hope the model will pass onto someone who can finish it.
Aye,
Ray.
-
Hi Chris, my photos of the Ariadne build have disappeared - I was sure they were on my old computer but not able to get them now so I'm sorry to disappoint you but can't be helped I suppose.
Good to know you're heading towards the finish on your Tiger by the way :-))
Aye,
Ray.
-
Well done, very nice model and looks and sails brilliantly,,
just needs a few finishing touches... :-))
-
Its so sad that you lost your photos. The uploading and tweaking can take a good percentage of the time a build takes.
She looks fab on the water Cap'n!
-
Cheers Ian, very much appreciated and still hoping to learn how to edit video when time allows :-))
Aye,
Ray.
-
Hi All, I've resurrected this blog because last Tuesday I Finally, finally, managed to get a bit of footage of the model on the water!!!
Here's the link to the youtube vid.
HI Ray your model looks great on the water sailing an the tight turns had me worryied <:( as i thought for a moment she wasnt goin to recover but she did very well built an i can only hope my tiger will sail as well as yours or im goin to be very dissapointed but very well done on your model :-))
chrisb
-
Hi there Chris, many, many thanks for your nice comments. I don't know for sure how she manages to get back upright when I bring her out of the turns, but it must be something to do with the model being flat bottomed and she only has one prop whereas the real ship had twin props. Another thing I think about the turns is when the hull leans over it reaches the point where it acts something like a deep V, which stops her leaning any further.
One other thing is that the superstructure is made mainly from plastic which helps keep the weight lower down.
Your Tiger crew are looking good all painted up by the way and will help bring your ship to life :-)
Hope you and your Jen are doing okay just now...
Aye,
Ray.