Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: Martin (Admin) on May 23, 2007, 09:03:24 pm
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Hi All,
I have not moved over to the "Dark Side", but don't tell anyone but I putting together a yacht kit!
.... I'm not proud of myself and I will need councilling but I wanted a nice nerve settling model for the 1st Mayhem weekend (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2350.0)
This is a blog of my build.... I mean a yacht, how hard than be to build?!?!? Hah! ::)
Well, lets have a go.
Martin ;)
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Are you building this in REAL time
Peter
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No but it has only taken me a week - unheard of for me!
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Pardon my ignorance but what is the ruler screwed to the servo for ? ::)
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Now keep Bradders away or he will lose the mast..He He
Peter
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Hi Shane,
It's a sail arm servo - http://www.modelyacht.org/sailservo.html (http://www.modelyacht.org/sailservo.html)
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Not bad Martin, but mine only took five days, including spraying the hull! The longest bit was waiting for the wood primer to dry!!
Danny
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I see now Martin you have "Jerry rigged" the ruler as the arm on the servo ! I am having a dumb moment tonight and it seems everything I do or try to do is wrong for some reason >:(
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Ah ! It's your turn now then! ;D
I see now Martin you have "Jerry rigged" the ruler as the arm on the servo ! I am having a dumb moment tonight and it seems everything I do or try to do is wrong for some reason >:(
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Thanks for that, they look good . I may get one for the wife ,,,,,good swap... no I'm after something to keep heir busy when I go to the lake and she has always said she likes yachts.
peter
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Ah ! It's your turn now then!
Quote from: Shane on Today at 10:11:39 PM
I see now Martin you have "Jerry rigged" the ruler as the arm on the servo ! I am having a dumb moment tonight and it seems everything I do or try to do is wrong for some reason
My turn !! More like my way of life mate ! ;D ;D
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Just curious Martin but are the bottles filled with the liquid on the floor to be tied underneath for ballast......... ;D ;D ;D
Roy
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Just a thought
When you glue in the radio tray it needs to go in solid.
The torque from the sail arm is considerable.
First time I did this the radio tray came adrift when I was on a pond. all I knew was that she would only steer in one direction :-\, as rudder servo was not static anymore :(
Next time I scored the inside of the hull for the glue to have something to bite on.
No problem since then. ;D
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Another quality product from Bob at Amerang!
I used to work for a model shop a while back, we stocked nearly everything from Thunder Tiger, great products which are well built and cheap in the spares department. I'm getting the urge to buy another sail boat, did have my heart set on a Graupner, now i've seen thistho i'm undecided ???
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I just ordered a Monsoon 900 to give it a try. The price was too low to resist, and the shipping costs even more so (they are shipped from Ningbo)
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I just ordered a Monsoon 900 to give it a try. The price was too low to resist, and the shipping costs even more so (they are shipped from Ningbo)
Hi Romain
I will be interested to know how you get on.
There is a long thread on one of the other sites about monsoon 900.
Caiser (the seller) does not seem to know his A55 from his elbow. And the boast shipped to US have all been damaged, but folks seem to think the hull is good quality.
The Triumph 800 is let down by a very fragile mast and the sail winch running above the deck. The lines seem to run off the winch as well.
And before Stavros comes on the A55 is not the expressway from Elsmere Port to his neck of the woods. ;D
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BTW
I am a Thunder Tiger Victoria abuser.
I have had it out in near tyhoons when people won't even go out.
I have smashed down to the water umpteen times, and she just pops back up. I have run her keel bulb headlong into rocks.
Every ferule on the booms has come loose but only needed re-glueing. NB abraded alu first.
Every knot has come undone, but been CA'd.
But nothing has broken. Except after two seasons of abuse, the sail arm servo gave out last week.
The old model does not have the ply re-infocemnt around the keel support. But mine shows no sign of fatigue. I think this was done because some other models had cracks at this point.
I think the Victoria is pretty indestructable, takes lots of abuse and is good value.
And as she gets older she will no doubt become my 'rat boat'/winter hack.
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Well she had her first outing on Saturday at the Mayhem Weekend.
We were so busy, she didn't get wet until about 4PM!
.... she sails well straight out of the box! No rigging or rudder adjusting, no leaks, nothing fell off! :o
I would suggest that the DIY sail arm could be a little shorter, 5 inches instead of 6" as I had to turn down the travel (ATV) quite some way to prevent binding. The front sail attachment also needed moving outwards so both sails moved to their full extent. I'm still not happy with the radio layout but that will change if I need to change the sail servo.
I fitted a Futaba S3010 servo which seemed to handle the sails quite well but after an hour or so I noticed it couldn't pull the sails in any more, seems as though the battery or servo had had enough - which is annoying because I had bought a new 1300mAH for her!
Is this normal is is something wrong?
Martin.
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Congrats on crossing to the dark side.
And on a great weekend. Sorry I couldn't make it.
As for boat issue
I usually get a good 8 hours out of 4 duracells, unless it is realy windy and servo working very hard then 6 hours.
but I have no idea of mAH for duracell to compare.
If the servo is binding then it might consume more juice.
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Martin, I had the Victoria as my first sail boat and I still got it, along with a workshop full of other boats. Vicky, as I call her has NEVER let me down, no leaks, no problems. ideal for taking to the lake when you don't feel like anything serious, however I did fit a Hitec Winch servo instead of a sail arm, bit more expensive and a little more thought but well worth it. Enjoy your sailing. bigH
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Hi Martin
Pardon my ignorance - my knowledge of Yachts is even less than my knowledge of tugs but I had a sail of our club yacht yesterday and I think I think I may be succumbing to infection.
Can you please tell me who manufactures the model and let me know of any suppliers?
Regards
Clegg
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The Victoria is made by Thunder Tiger - http://www.thundertiger-europe.com/
( Instructins - http://www.thundertiger-europe.com/downloads_manuals.html )
Your local model shop should be able to get one in within a few day if they don't already have one!
If not call the guys at Westbourne! - http://www.westbourne-models.com/
Any questions, just post on here ......
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Many thanks
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Hi Martin,
With regards to the servo sail arm length. It is best to have the arm as short as possible, as long as it still gives the required travel. This reduces the torque required therefore giving longer battery life.
Bob
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I think your right BobF,
I may crowbar out my radio box again.....
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Battery life usually increases with experience - You learn to to set sail as it should be, and to leave it there until a change is actually needed.
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just started my vicky build in one of martins photo's it shows wooden support were keel is attached is this a good thing to add to the build advice please :embarrassed:
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sorry to be a pain but i want to paint the hull asked in the shop 1 person said rub it down first with p1000 wet n dry the other said wash it with white spirit what is best method? please
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Hi Link43mk,
I read on another website somewhere that the keel tube need a bit of extra bracing as all the forces of the mast and keel reply solely on the keel tube glue alone!
ABS can be a little tricky to paint but I've never had much problems. A good old rub down, make sure you get in those internal corners, wash and wipe down with meths, White Spirits (terps) MAY be too strong and melt the plastic, test first. Once the hull is prepaid, the trick is not to get finger prints on it or handle it too much as it will leave marks and cause static problems.
Don't prep and spray the same day.
Have a look at:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3815.0
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1761.0
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5819.0
Martin
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hi thanks for the tips i think i will install the keel supports pity thunder tiger did'nt think of it
paul
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Congrats on crossing to the dark side.
And on a great weekend. Sorry I couldn't make it.
As for boat issue
I usually get a good 8 hours out of 4 duracells, unless it is realy windy and servo working very hard then 6 hours.
but I have no idea of mAH for duracell to compare.
If the servo is binding then it might consume more juice.
Years ago, when I had access to the company's stores directory, the figures indicated that at the time rechargeable AAs were 600mAH and Duracell AAs were about 2000mAH. This is from memory of a long time ago.
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me again need to buy the sail servo mondat the one i have been looking at is the Hitec 765HB Sail Arm Servo will this be ok sorry for all the posts but i am a complete novice at this.
PAUL
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me again need to buy the sail servo mondat the one i have been looking at is the Hitec 765HB Sail Arm Servo will this be ok sorry for all the posts but i am a complete novice at this.
PAUL
Hi Paul
No it may not be suitable. It is powerful enough but I see it listed as having 90 degrees of travel.
You need 140 degrees + of movement.
Try this site
http://www.alshobbies.com/shop/cat.php?id=566&Desc=
The link will allow you to compare many servos.
I have also bought from Als. Fast reliable service.
No connection just a satisfied customer.
Enjoy your build.
and enjoy sailing
TT
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thanks for that tt i am going to get this one now Hitec HS 815BB yes you are right als is a good shop only a couple of miles from me.
paul
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The 815BB is very big, and may not fit in the radio tray.
It is also heavy and more than twice as powerful as you will need.(25KG/cm torque at 6v)
Try a Futaba S3802, a bit oversized but it will sqeeze in with a bit of cutting.
The Futaba S3003 is a standard servo, but check als website for dimensions. These are the standard dimensions that the radio tray is made for. Futaba do a sail arm servo the same size.
If you are going to mod the radio tray as Martind did then the S3802 is more than powerful enough.
You only need 9kg/cm torque but 11kg is better.
Have fun
TT
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When fitting a more powerful sail servo bear the mounting strangth in mind. You dont want it to pull itself out by its own roots.
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When fitting a more powerful sail servo bear the mounting strangth in mind. You dont want it to pull itself out by its own roots.
This reminds me. I may have already mentioned. After a few weeks of use the radio tray did come adrift. :(
All I knew was the boat would only go in circles ::)
So score the hull lightly before you glue in teh radio tray to give it something to bite on and clean with a degreasant. :) ;)
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I've recently obtained one of these yacht kits and first impressions of contents and instructions look impressive.
Have any of you who have already got a Victoria felt the need to upgrade the supplied sails and if so where did you purchase them from ?
Terry.
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Hi Terry
Yes, I did upgrade the sails on my Victoria. Unfortunately for you and any others who may be interested, I bought mine from Brian Wiles, Apex Sails, but I'm afraid he lost his battle with cancer a couple of years ago. The only other one I know of who will make sails for you is Frank at Nylet. He made my three sets of sails for my R36R many moons ago, but I know he has made a set for a friend of mine for his Comtesse quite recently.
Danny
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Hi Danny,
Thanks for that. I believe my kit came from Brain's stock that was been sold on by his family. I know of a couple of sail makers and suppliers but it would much easier if I could just request a set of "Victoria" sails rather than having to quote dimensions etc. I'll see if anyone else has any info before delving into the kit. (got 2 scale boats to finish first).
Thanks again, Terry
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You could also try Andy Wright at www.windpowersails.8m.com He did a very nice set for my Saphir.
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Thanks for that Martin, looks good.
Terry.
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The Cirrus P-CS704/MG is a high torque (13kg cm at 4.8V) servo with a footprint about the same as a standard servo, though it is taller. It also weighs less than comparable offerings from Futaba or Hitec. Again, only 90º rotation but that can be simply overcome using a longer arm.
http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=5644
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I'm just rebuilding my Victoria's radio box. I'm replacing the Futaba S3010 servo with a ( MG995 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MG995-METAL-GEAR-HIGH-SPEED-DIGITAL-SERVO-RUSH-SAVAGE_W0QQitemZ200163970338QQihZ010QQcategoryZ19168QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) )
.... can anyone give me guidance on yachts and battery selection?
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I'd go with 5x consumer type NiMH cells, 2,500 mAh capacity approx. That'd be enough for a day's sailing.
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Just a quick question re this model.
Should the two halves of the mast be permanently joined or are they meant to be in two sections for transport etc.
Cheers, John
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I permanently fixed mine as rigging and de-rigging takes too long during lunch hour!
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Thanks Martin.
One more dumb question.........does the gosseneck fitting get glued to the mast or is in meant to slide up and down only held by rigging.
Cheers,
John
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Section 8. 10 of the instructions says:
Attach the main boom to the main mast with pin (52) as shown in drawing A.
Secure the gooseneck fittings with epoxy when finished.
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Hi Martin,
I have read that bit in the instructions but am not sure what it means. I have glued the pin but what about the "ring" that is on the mast that holds the gooseneck. Is that epoxied to the mast in a fixed position or does it slide? I am probably stupid but I guess it does not move on the mast but would like to know for sure before I glue it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
John :-X
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Hi Langsford
On mine I glued the goosneck to the mast using epoxy. A smear of glue will crack very quicly and the gooseneck become mobile. And so I used a dollop, so that there is a a blob of glue around the goosneck above it. This will not crack.
The mast I did not glue the two halves together. If it a joint that is under compression so no problem.
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Position the bottom ring (46) to the right height [43mm] and glue.
Sit boom end (48) on top of (46) lower
Place glue on mast and slide down upper ring (46) on top of (48) leaving the tiniest of gaps to allow it to swing.
Slide in pin (52) check alignment and and allow to set.
BTW: I roughened the mast with sandpaper and used thick superglue.
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Thanks guys, that answere my question perfectly. John O0
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Hi
I am after a little advice here if possible.
I have read a lot about the Victoria and the sail servos that may be used with her.
However it is still not clear to me if I need a servo that has 140+ deg throw or 90 deg throw?
I am proposing to do the mod with the seperate rudder servo and the double arm for the sail servo.
The servo that seems very popular is the Hitec 645mg (Good Cost - 90 deg, I have also found that some people recommend modifying this to 170 deg throw and others do not mention it!) and the Fut S3802 (Bad cost and 140 if programmed.)
To make this even more confusing I am also considering the Hitec 815bb, but this is physically much bigger than the others and I am not sure if it would fit in the yacht. (Good cost)
I will probably use a Fleet non computer radio.
I would be very grateful if someone could confirm how much movement I require for a double arm setup and which servos they have actually fitted?
Many thanks
Jules
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The Victoria is rigged to use a standard 90o servo.
The clever people use 140o 'cause they are fine tuning / maximizing the boat.
I used a Futaba S1030
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4231.msg41030#msg41030
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The ordinary Futaba with ball race (3004) that was fitted to mine was just not strong enough to either pull in or hold in when there was enough wind to make it really go, so I got a high torque one, of the same physical size, from Howes (Power HD 2400A). I had to make a new sail arm from ply, as the splines on the Futaba horn were not a good enough fit, and the arm was unwilling to mount on the new horn due to a large locating lump. I also had to rewire it as the existing wiring harness had passed its sell-by date with the increased demand of the new servo.
It has a 90° throw, but I rigged it so that fullest out is at 90° to the centreline, and fully in is facing forward. This is not as the instructions show, but I feel it gives better pull when close hauling, and probably takes a lot less effort to keep it there. What is lost in travel is fairly insignificant, as when fully out, the sail brushes the standing rigging.
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"Velly Interessting Herr Malcolm!" I've got my radio box out now for a rejig.
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I put a Futaba S3802 in mine. It is only a little bit bigger the radio tray only needs a little trimning to make it fit.
The S1030 I used gave up the ghost after one season, really not strong enough for windy sailing.
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....and it runs down the battery hence the interest in Malcolm's setup!
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I use the standard set up (single sided arm, as per original plans) and get 8-9 hours out of 4 x 1.5v Duracell.
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Any chance of a picture of your setup TT?
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Rigging as per standard instruction.
Picture 2 I notice the gib sheet crosses over another line where it shouldn't.
Pic 4 inside.
I needed to enlarge the hole in the top of the radio tray by about 3-4mm, in front of the sail servo only, in order to fit the larger item.
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Hi,
I've modified my Victoria similar to that used by the OSMA in Canada.
http://www.okanaganmodelsailboat.org/Index1.html (http://www.okanaganmodelsailboat.org/Index1.html)
Check here for more info (Sorry if I'm repeating an existing link on here). I've kept the original mast though.
I'm using the double sail arm from the instructions above with a Hitec 645MG servo and get sufficient
travel to cater for both sails.
I hope this is of help.
FC
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Hi
Thank you all for your comments and replies, very much appreciated.
I will go with the 645MG servo at normal throws and a double arm as per FC's post and the OMSA website.
The bit that has confused me is shown in the following link:
http://www.sailbakersfield.com/victoria/documents/VictoriaBuildingInst.Illustrated.PDF.pdf
Here they have adjusted the throws of the 645MG to 170 degrees. (Useful mod if someone ever requires it.)
Once again many thanks.
Jules
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Hi. I am a complete novice to this hobby of model yacht sailing and have recently built a Voyager 2, but I am not impressed with rigging hooks/snaps supplied with the kit. They are fiddly to hook on to or off deck fastenings when dismantling the mast and rigging for transport. Those on the Victoria look a lot easier to work with. Would some you kind modellers advise me on where I might obtain similar, or at least better than my kit issued ones. Many thanks in anticipation.
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You might find a nicer snap link in a fishing tackle shop.
Also have a look at sailsetc.com
And I think the name is House Martin Sails.
Both do sailboat fittings.
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Hi Tiger Tiger. Much appreciate your suggestion. Have tried my local fisherman's tackle shop, but those he sold were either too big and again very difficult to unlock and lock. My problem really I suppose,is that I have big hands. Raglane.
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I actually, I never de-rig mine.
It will sit in the rear footwell of any family saloon (canted over on its nose), as well as in the boot/trunk of most cars (lying down). She is robust enough to take this treatment.
Bits will come off, especially where the deck fittings for the shrouds, but after 3rd glueing they stay on. I think this is due to the need to break the surface of the plastic for glueing to take a good hold.
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A few pics of my rerigged Vicky
8mm Cf mast
6mm Cf booms
Wind Power Sails
Fishing trace wire stays (no spreaders two stays per side + backstay)
De rigeur 6" rule sail servo arm
Sheet adjusters brought through to cockpit
She sails so much better with the lightweight rig and decent sails
Ned
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Ned, Thats what I have got to do with my Victoria...
What sort of CF tube did you use? Most of the modded ones... I have seen seem to use Skyshark tubes..but their owner are very coy about where they got their tube from..
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Dekan
Just the stock tube my model shop had.
I was not after warp speed as we only sail for relaxation
at our club.
I have a manic marblehead for windy windy days.
I am going to change the bowsies for the smallest rigging
screws I can get (4BA I think) just for ease of rigging and
cosmetic reasons.
All in all I think I have got it sailing the way I want it picking out
the best mods from the different forums.
Ned
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Thanks Ned, you can get spiral wound 8mm CF tube from several sources now. How much of the original rigging hardware did you use? The kicker doesn't look stock..
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My first Vic I did all the mods from the OMSA site which included the arrow shaft mast and booms. My second build for my wife I bought their cf mast which is tapered spiral wrapped CF with a simple brass ferrule in the middle. I'm pretty sure it is a short fishing rod blank that should be easy to DIY.
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The kicker is just a bit of bent brass rod. I have two sizes which I use decided by the wind strength.
The base of the mast is original as is the gooseneck.
A 1 metre 8mm tube plus the required length of the mast base works a treat
The C/F tube slots into the mast base and is secured with a couple of pop rivets.
As I said earlier, I just wanted a boat I could sail for enjoyment in most winds.
At our club we have no out and out racers in fact on Sunday 8 Yachts no two the same plus a couple of lasers
so there is no-one looking down their noses at my interpretation of a model yacht.
It works for me and that's all I ask :-)) :-))
Ned
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The kicker is just a bit of bent brass rod. I have two sizes which I use decided by the wind strength.
The base of the mast is original as is the gooseneck.
A 1 metre 8mm tube plus the required length of the mast base works a treat
The C/F tube slots into the mast base and is secured with a couple of pop rivets.
As I said earlier, I just wanted a boat I could sail for enjoyment in most winds.
At our club we have no out and out racers in fact on Sunday 8 Yachts no two the same plus a couple of lasers
so there is no-one looking down their noses at my interpretation of a model yacht.
It works for me and that's all I ask :-)) :-))
Ned
It sounds like our sailing as well no organized racing and a mixed bag of boats. Our winter is long and I enjoy the building and I always seem to get carried away.
Mine are probably not tuned worth a darn but they have lots of fancy bits. :-))
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I think the Victoria is a great yacht... thats why I think it's worth replacing the mast and rigging. as this is it's weak spot IMO
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I think the Victoria is a great yacht... thats why I think it's worth replacing the mast and rigging. as this is it's weak spot IMO
Weak is perhaps not the best choice of words, at is implies that something is wrong with the rigging.
The rigging is fine and very robust. Perhaps saying that it is the thing that needs upgrading most, is more appropriate.
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Hello everyone. I am a 69 year old beginner to rc sail, but I had a lot of dinghy sailing experience when younger. This is my first big post so if you have problems with it please tell me. My scale sail project is taking too long and I was desperate for a sail this summer, so after reading your posts I bought a Victoria. I have had a lot of pleasure from sailing it and I would like to thank you all for helping me to make this choice. I have made some modifications which you may find interesting. I live in the sticks, the nearest model shop is 40 mins drive and the nearest club is 90 mins drive but I have a lathe and a reasonable workshop. There may be commercially available parts for some of the things I have done. If anyone is interested I can post more info on dimensions and how to do it. Our local campsite has given me permission to sail on their fishing lake which covers about 5 acres.
1 I made the radio box easily removeable, using some 8mm sq spruce and some home made bolts (pics 1,2,3). This also sets the box higher, clear of any water that may get in and also brings the servo outputs up to the same level as the sheet and tiller ports to avoid friction. The ends of the support beams are well spaced to reduce the forces imposed by the servo outputs.
2 Instead of the king post arrangement proposed on the OMSA website to resist the downthrust of the mast, I machined some brass stepped sleeves to fit on the ends of the modified keel mounting tube (pic1). When I had done it I thought an easier way would be to fit a 7mm ID tube (Albion Alloys) cut to length over the standard keel mounting tube.
3 The standard mast joiner is too flexible, and the resulting kink in the mast affected the set of the mainsail, so I made a stainless steel one drilled to reduce weight.
4 I found the sheeting arrangement through the lever arm and the cockpit rope bushing in the stern hatch cover gave too much friction, the sails would not pull out in light winds, and I think this may be the cause of short servo and battery life. I made a servo arm with a sheave as shown in pic 4 and a block for the stern hatch cover as shown in pic 5. I am using 2000mAh NiMH batteries which have not died on me but the max duration I have risked so far is 6 hours before recharge. The Futaba S3010 servo is still ok after about 40 hours of use, I probably shouldn't have said that.
The weather is perfect so I am off to the lake. All the best Brian
(http://s4.postimage.org/1r7a15b8/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1r7a15b8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/31a8e34uc/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31a8e34uc/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/31bxkyz44/003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31bxkyz44/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/31gpkv2h0/008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31gpkv2h0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/31o3udxz8/009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31o3udxz8/)
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G'day Brian,you've made some really good mods. to the viccy, I especially like youre sheeting arrangement and will modify mine accordingly :-)) I built my viccy as per OMSA and used Jim Anderson's go fast kit,that lightened the boat quite a bit.If youre using the standard sails,get the long bow yachts sails, the boats performance really improves with much better acceleration after tacking ok2
btw, I'm also 69 years old but only 29years old between the ears :-)
Cheers Col
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Hello Col
Thanks for your comments. I didn't find the OMSA website until after I had finished my Viccy, so with hindsight I may have done a few things differently. I take your point about the sails. Have a good day. Brian
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Does anyone know what the narrow strips are for in the kit manual doesn't show where they go.?
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A picture would help, maybe with something to show scale like a pen or ruler.
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If they are very thin plastic strips they may be
Sail battens or stiffeners.
I will have a look at my instructions when I get
home
Ned
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Page 10 Fig 20 of the manual shows three pvc strips for sail battens.
Would these be the strips?
Ned
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Page 10 Fig 20 of the manual shows three pvc strips for sail battens.
Would these be the strips?
Ned
No wonder ive struggled when pages are missing out of the manual, when you mentioned where they go i found a post" with pic of the sail & could just make out where they go, Thanks
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Victoria instruction manual available for download here:-
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/images/0-TTRB1000_manual.pdf (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/images/0-TTRB1000_manual.pdf)
Mike
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Victoria instruction manual available for download here:-
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/images/0-TTRB1000_manual.pdf (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/images/0-TTRB1000_manual.pdf)
Mike
Thanks, downloaded & saved, its the two middle pages that are missing from the manual that came with the boat.
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There is also an excellent step by step build log here http://www.okanaganmodelsailboat.org/Index1.html (http://www.okanaganmodelsailboat.org/Index1.html)
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Having finally tired of struggling to get water out of the hull after an adventurous session, I have just fitted a drain hatch, courtesy of a carton of fruit juice.
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{-) {-) {-) Like it! they say necessesity is the mother of invention. O0
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I just drilled a hole in the transom and made a plug from a pop rivet with a bit of electrical
Wire insulation to fit.
I use the same only larger on my Marblehead.
No probs keeping a couple of spares for the lost ones.
Ned
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Having finally tired of struggling to get water out of the hull after an adventurous session, I have just fitted a drain hatch, courtesy of a carton of fruit juice.
Now you'll have to rename her ''Juicy Lucy''
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Having finally tired of struggling to get water out of the hull after an adventurous session, I have just fitted a drain hatch, courtesy of a carton of fruit juice.
Got to go some to get water in the hull...? I had water over my deck few times with the speed boats passing but never a drop of water.