Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: chipchase on April 27, 2013, 08:56:41 pm
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Hi all, I thought that I would start posting some photos on another build that I am working on at the moment. :-))
It has been a while since I did an update on my Amity build this is the reason. {-)
The scale of the Cragsider build is 1/24 this makes her 53:67ins long and the beam 15:84ins. I built the plug using the plank on frame method here are some photos.
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The next two photos show the plug after a lot of preparation and then painted.
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And finally the hull.
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Hi thats a great looking hull you have made and wow thats some really shiney redish paint what have you used for that?
Have you vac formed or fibre glassed the hull from that?
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Nice one Brian - I've never seen a plug made that way before. By that, I mean with the frames cut in half and glued either side of the fore and aft keel. I've always assumed frames were "slotted" in place - hope that makes sense ? :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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The plug was two pack painted DMW and then a mould was made from the plug to produce the fibre glass hull.
Hi Ray making the hull this way was a first time for me to, it was a bit time consuming as I braced each frame and then glued.
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Here is a link to last weeks test sail
The last link was not working try this one :-))
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMDCb2QLNMo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMDCb2QLNMo)
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Here are two photos showing the progress of the Cragsider build.
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Fantastic work!!!
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Thanks bassplayer1 here is a photo of her in the early stages. It will give you some idea of her size. {-) {-)
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What a monster! :-))
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Yes she is going to be a big model Martin, here are a few photos showing the build of the steerable nozzle.
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Lookin' great :-)) . Watched the video, looks wonderful. What do you think the finished weight will be?
Mark
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Now that is one large beast...she looks amazing, some great engineering skills there. She is going to be pretty weighty once done, how are you going to transport her, trailer or van?
Si:)
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Thanks gents, Mark I think the total weight will be around 5 stone she takes about 4 stone to get her down to the water line.
Eddiesolo I have a hatchback and she fitted in no problem.
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The outer tube that holds the nozzle was made from alloy and a brass tube fitted into the alloy to act as a sleeve for the nozzle shaft to fit into. The reason for fitting the brass tube is I find that the steel shaft sometimes reacts with the alloy.
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Hi all here are two photos showing the way that the motor and bed plate are fitted, and two showing some of the deck frames.
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Motor mount looks good :-)) .
Mark
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Cheers Mark the rubber in between the motor and the bed plate allowed me to get the right tension on the drive belt.
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Very nice keep us posted
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After filling in between the deck frames with 10mm ply the deck was then covered with 2mm plastic card. I decided to us 1.5mm alloy plate on the stern; the reason for this was the Cragsider had a removable steel plate for access to the Kort head gear I decided to fit the same as it would be easier for repairs if anything happened to the Kort on the model.
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It's no wonder, then, that I have difficulty lifting your model boats <*<
Lovely work Brian - eagerly awaiting the next update :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Hi Brian
I have really enjoyed looking at this and I like the belted motor method. Will the rubber stretch at all and need re tensioning?
Dave
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It's no wonder, then, that I have difficulty lifting your model boats <*<
Lovely work Brian - eagerly awaiting the next update :-))
Regards,
Ray.
cheers Ray I will have to try and build them smaller {-) {-)
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Hi Brian
I have really enjoyed looking at this and I like the belted motor method. Will the rubber stretch at all and need re tensioning?
Dave
Hi Dave, I have used this type of drive on a couple of builds and had no problems up to now, the toothed belts and pulleys are purchased from MFA and are very good quality, I think it would take quite a lot to stretch the belts.
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The next part of the build was the stern roller I use a metal tube and turned the end caps using alloy and the pins are made from brass
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The stern end was cut and brass plates fitted to support the roller, the end caps are made from brass tube shaped and a brass bush fitted inside for the roller pins to fit into.
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And finally rubbed down and primed.
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Exquisite!
(There's a word I don't use everyday!)
Andy
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Cheers Andy {-)
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Brian,
When are you going to write a book so we may all learn from your skills.
I cant find the words to say how much enjoyment I get from watching your builds.
Thank you for shareing them with us.
Regards Howard.
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Thank you Howard for your kind comments, but I am afraid that I am not very good at putting words together so I don’t think I will be writing a book. (I will have to stick to building models) {-) {-)
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chipchase .......pictures say a 1000 words...so......just keep them coming O0
BTW...are they M2 brass hex headed bolts retaining the quarter deck cover plate over the drive gear?........... Derek
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Very neet Brian, your builds are so interesting ,keep pict coming.
regards John
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Really great work.
:-))
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Thanks for the positive comments. :-)) Yes Derek the plate pertaining bolts are 2mm hexagon headed brass bolts, the holes were drilled and tapped. unfortunately I don’t have a photo showing the deck frames under the stern plate, when I drilled through the alloy plate I also drilled into the deck frames this also secured the deck and inspection plate.
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Here are photos showing the Sampson posts, I made the posts out of 12mm alloy.
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Here are three photos showing her fully primed.
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Here she is with her final coat of paint :-))
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Lookin' great :} .
Mark
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very nice brian,,,, looking real good, exellent build so far, :-))
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Cheers gents here are a few photos showing the superstructure and the handrails. I will post some photos showing the superstructure build.
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:-))
Mark
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Here are the latest build photos.
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Brian, as I was born and lived in Hebburn till my early twentys you bring back so many memories.
Regards Howard.
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You will have seen her many times going up and down the river Howard, I still have the main winch and windless to build so if anyone has some good close up photos of them it would be much appreciated. :-))
Regards Brian
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Lovely Build Brian, a real proper tug with character, look forward to seeing it soon :-)
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Cheers Peter, as promised her are a few photos showing how I built the superstructure.
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a few more photos
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Can you clarify your pictures Chipchase. Did you make a wooden frame for the cabin first, and then use it to construct the plastic shape around it ? It looks like the wood has been removed.
Cheers
Ken
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Hi Ken the plastic card is glued onto the ply frame, after it was constructed I decided to cut through the top and centre decks so that it would make fitting out the wheelhouse much easier. The whole floor and fittings will be able to be removed from below. I will post photos of this when I get to that part of the build. Here is a photo showing the top of the superstructure before I cut through the deck, the square section was used as a template for the floor size.
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Started building the davit today here are a few photos, I will try and get a bit more done over the next few days. :-))
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A bit more done on the davit
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Brian,
Could you tell which colours and from where you use for your Tyne based Models please.
Regards Howard.
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chipchase.....your construction/building skills in brass & silver solder are also first class :-)) ....
but why does the davit post only have three support gussets? .....
OK....I see it now....[a gusset at 180 degrees to the axis of the davit beam] ...must have been some parallax error {:-{ in the earlier images....Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43009.0;attach=125115;image)
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Brian,
Could you tell which colours and from where you use for your Tyne based Models please.
Regards Howard.
Howard the paint is spray cans from the local car accessory shop. I have used red oxide for the hull below the water line and the deck, satin black for the rest of the hull. For the superstructure I normally use Humbrol no 9 (tan) but unfortunately I had run out so I decided to go to Halfords and try to get some spray paint mixed, I took along the Humbrol tin with me for reference. After looking through the colour charts I came up with the nearest match to the Humbrol no9, I ended up buying a spray can and 100ml bottle of the same colour for touching up. The young lad at Halfords was very helpful as he had to add extra black to tone down the mix to get it as near the Humbrol colour as possible. The rest of the superstructure was just the standard white spray gloss of the shelf; the funnel is Ford sunburst red.
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your construction/building skills in brass & silver solder are also first class :-))
quote]
Thank you Derek
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Here are a few photos showing the mast construction.
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Crackin' on there Brian - beautiful O0
Regards,
Ray.
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cheers Ray :-))
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Brackets for aerials made and fitted to superstructure.
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Got a start on the towing hook base today, the H section of brass that I have used was originally from an old curtain rail given to me by a friend. The first thing was to make a template for the rail this I made from 10mm ply, the brass was then heated and bent around the template. Here are a few photos showing how this was made.
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Next was the hook carriage, this had to be made next before the end caps were fitted to the base.
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Got a bit work done on the hook today.
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Now listen chipchase..........I am not a non believer :o ...but do not understand how you managed to bend the brass I beam without the inner lands buckling >>:-( ...... or the outer lands <*< tearing......Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43009.0;attach=125316;image)
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AMAZING work Brian, i cant wait to see this one done.
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Now listen chipchase..........I am not a non believer :o ...but do not understand how you managed to bend the brass I beam without the inner lands buckling >>:-( ...... or the outer lands <*< tearing......Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43009.0;attach=125316;image)
Well Derek you will just have to put it down to good engineering skills LOL.I was expecting it to crimp but was really amazed at the outcome.
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AMAZING work Brian, i cant wait to see this one done.
Cheers John :-))
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A bit more done on the Tow Hook today
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Well Derek you will just have to put it down to good engineering skills LOL.I was expecting it to crimp but was really amazed at the outcome.
Seriously, for those of us who want to know what to do O0 O0 , how did you go about bending the rail.
Thank you
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chipchase......
1. From what I see....the two M2 bolt holes on the top of the main securing bracket [back to the structure] will only be [with bolts] but for show?....
2. With the actual load being be taken by that M4 Bolt hidden on axis shown here
3. What do you use as the pickling solution after silver soldering?...........................all looking good :-)) as usual ......
Naturally all sizes are my guesses from being upside down & 22,000 km away...... :o .....Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43009.0;attach=125451;image)
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Seriously, for those of us who want to know what to do O0 O0 , how did you go about bending the rail.
Thank you
I am afraid there are no special techniques RAAArtyGunner I just applied a lot of heat. To be perfectly honest I was expecting the inner and outer lands to slightly buckle, but fortunately this did not happen. The only thing I can put this down to is the H bar that I used was old and probably made out of good quality material (not like the crap that’s on the market today)
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chipchase......
1. From what I see....the two M2 bolt holes on the top of the main securing bracket [back to the structure] will only be [with bolts] but for show?....
2. With the actual load being be taken by that M4 Bolt hidden on axis shown here
3. What do you use as the pickling solution after silver soldering?...........................all looking good :-)) as usual ......
Naturally all sizes are my guesses from being upside down & 22,000 km away...... :o .....Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43009.0;attach=125451;image)
Derek I will be putting two 2mm bolts through the superstructure but as you have noticed the main strength will be the 4mm bolt that is silver soldered into the bracket. I don’t use any pickling solution; I clean the brass with good old steel wool soap pads after soldering. I should really think about trying some cleaning solution as it might save me quite a bit of work.
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A bit more fabrication done on the tow hook arm today, I also made a new coupling as I was not happy with the first one. After a slight modification to the coupling it was time to get it all painted and assembled. :-))
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:} :-))
Mark
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I am afraid there are no special techniques RAAArtyGunner I just applied a lot of heat. To be perfectly honest I was expecting the inner and outer lands to slightly buckle, but fortunately this did not happen. The only thing I can put this down to is the H bar that I used was old and probably made out of good quality material (not like the crap that’s on the market today)
Thank you :-)) :-))
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Brian,
Its was so good to be a lad living in a town with such a great river and to see tugs every day like what you model your bringing my wondful childhood and memories flooding back to me.
Jimmy Nail got it so right when he wrote it was a great river great song which I play often,
nice to see the old Palmers yard at Hebburn on tv the other night think its called A P now.
Regards Howard.
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Happy memories Howard, {-) did you get your Northsider finished she makes a lovely model.
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Engine room vent made and fitted today.
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Brian,
Words fail me on this build the word awsum don't seam good enough.
Regards Howard.
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Thank you Howard :-)) here are a few photos showing how I made the Engine room vent. The vent on the Cragsider is quite big, the diameter on the plans worked out at 35mm. I decided to make the vent out of plastic pipe to keep the weight down to a minimum.
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Accommodation door made, just another three to make plus the wheelhouse doorss, :-)) the doors are made from 1mm plastic card the porthole is alloy turned in the lathe and the handles are .5 piano wire. The tube that is fitted to the handles is alloy.
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Not a great deal done over the last week, but managed to get the bollards made.
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Hello!!!!
Wooow, really a great job, love the way you made the engine room vent :-))
Congratulations, thank you for shearing your work
Best regards
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Cheers escipion, took her for a ballast test sail today very pleased with the outcome. :-))
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Hi Brian,
All I need is a pier a couple of Sand dancers and a Minchella and one of your tugs and its like being back home.
Regards Howard.
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looks great in the water, congratulations for your work