Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Any Other Builds => Topic started by: Biscuit on May 28, 2007, 06:43:18 pm
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Hi,
Just came back from coniston with a model of Campells Bluebird K7, it is a static kit but can be converted to R/C, there or notes in the box to do this dated 1999, with a hot 540 and gear box on 7 cells. Would like to go brushless, Astec have given me a prop size and motor size, Mega 22/20/3 and 34.5.36mm prop on 12 cells, now this seems a bit heavy as the original was only on 7 cells. Does anyone have anymore info on this model? or links to the conversion? as you can see the hull needs a lot of work and the scale parts are made out of resin which is very heavy, will lighten or make new parts including the planning wedges that will be made out of alloy as were the real things. Any help or info will be most welcome.
Thanks
Steve.
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If you need to increase the number of sells in the battery pack but keep the weight down Model Power do a 2200mah 2/3 cell that’s 2/3 the weight of a standard cell so a 12 cell pack would only be a little heavier that a 7 cell pack. I have used them in my model of an Atlantic 21 to reduce the weight. This has given better performance but reduced the running time to 20 mins. But they will recharge in 45 mins. Hop this helps.
John
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Thanks but going to need lots of power to get this up on the plane, might go for a 4sp Lipo pack, or might get away with a 3 cell, only thing is the price of a 4sp lipo pack is about £100, :( I know I use them in my helicopters.
Steve.
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Steve.
The man you need to talk to is Ernie Lazenby who knows everything there is to know about Bluebird, both model and real! If you post a question on the ASTEC forum I'm sure he will 'bite'. (He is a friend of Gina Campbell, Donald Campbell's daughter) and is extremely knowledgeable when it comes to cell counts, motors etc. You will find him on here.
http://astecmodels.co.uk/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=dfca3b74b973e242a006f1c50979c9c4
Cheers,
Ian.
8)
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Thanks Ian,
I have done that, but got no reply as of yet, I think he did the original write up in one of the mags, it seems he is the only one who has done this conversion. He has now built a real turbine K7, just hope he replies to my post, sent him a PM on the Rum Rider forum, Alan at Astec only gave me the motor size and prop, would really like a bit more info as the instructions for the boat are very poor, need more photos, really want to make a good job of this so don't want to just dive in, if you know what I mean. Thanks for the reply.
Steve.
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Biscuit
In your 3rd picture , is that a join line or repair, I like the look of the boat and the size is right for a nice project, Peter
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No Thats how it came, it seems like the front half is a separate moulding put on after the rear is joined, this is in 2 half's as well, going to have to put a lot of formers in the rear part of the hull to try and get it flat before I start filling. The hull is going to take a long time to get flat and true. You can see in the pic how far out the hull is, look at the daylight under the rule. Cant just fill this it will way a ton.
Steve
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Thats a bit of a shame , what is the inside like ,how are they joined ,did they use tape to join it together. The reason I ask this is that it may be an idea to separate and spend a bit of time re joining to your satisfaction, you may be able to just make a cut at the rear bulkhead so you can get rid of the bowing of the underside, its a shame it looks nice but just badly joined.
Peter
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Peter,
They are glassed together from the inside so you cannot see the join, its thin so like I said might be able to put some formers in the hull ,put it on a flat surface and glue them in and hope this keeps the bottom flat. Still not getting any where with my search for someone else who has done this conversion, no reply from Ernie, he is my last hope before going it alone. Not too happy with the quality of this kit as it cost £160, but I suppose its a starting point.
Steve.
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You will have to watch for the bottom ripling with bulkheads you could do with some sort of keel on the inside so it does not go concave in between the bulkheads, at least its nice and light ,just out of interest was the bottom ment to be hollow ,did they suggest you use a gearbox with the Mega 22/20/3 anyway I hope you sort it out it will make a nice project ? Peter
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No, The instructions don't really tell you anything, so not sure if its supposed to be like that, would of thought it needs to be flat. As to the motor, I don't know if it needs a gearbox, asked Allan at Astec what motor to use and thats what he reccomended, no mention of a gearbox. Got some weight's in the hull at the moment, I know its a long shot but it might help to flatten it out a bit.
Steve.
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That GRP moulding looks poor. Did you look at it before you bought it. Given the amount of work required I'd have asked for a discount.
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Have you tried filling the hull with Hot water and standing it on a flat base ? ( maybe start with warm first)
Just a thought.
Ken
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Yeah I know the moulding is poor, but my son bought it from a shop in Coniston, said he looked at it and thought it was great ! (kids eh!) so got to sort it out, thing is, every one thinks this a really nice boat but they only see the finished Item, not the box of bits, that one on the box lid must have taken months of work and tons of filler to look like that. As for the hot water has anyone tried this before on any other type of fiber glass model ? must admit was thinking of using a hair dryer. Would it harm the boats performance if it was left concave, as it only rides on the front sponsons and the prop?
Anyway, thanks for the replies, any other Ideas?
Steve.
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Before you start pour water in to the hull, PM either bluebird or Kayem. They have both been around since fibre glass was invented ;D
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Riggers, Chinese proverb say: stoop if roof is low ;D
serious side: we can go through the pros and cons of why this hull looks so heavily built and it is distorted through the flat area of the hull. It has obviously been lifted out of the mold when it is still 'green' the molding has not cured sufficiently and shrinkage has taken place rapidly.
Cure: Its a difficult one with it being a flat area; one method you could try, but its not guaranteed to work: Two pieces of solid timber, perfectly flat - one to fit inside the hull, one to fit on the outside of the hull - same shape and size as the distorted area. Two, three or even four very large G-clamps enabling you to clamp the two piece of wood together, thus sandwiching the bottom half of the hull in between the two pieces of wood.
Method: Either boiling water, poured into the side of the hull and keep the boiling water in the hull until the bottom of the hull becomes flexible; immediately empty the boiling water out of the hull. Place the inner piece of support timber on the inside of the hull, the outer piece of support timber on the outside of the hull. Clamp with as many G-clamps as possible. This MAY work, but, I suspect when the hull has cooled down, it may return to its original shape. Its worth a try though.
Over to Kayem......
Aye
John E
BLUEBIRD
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Did I hear someone calling my name....?
First thing to say is that these are some way from being the best fibreglass mouldings I've ever seen, but you've all worked that out for yourself, and I can see that it was made from poor quality glass mat, which makes me wonder about a few other things. Before doing anything though, does anyone know what shape the bottom of the boat is supposed to be, maybe it's meant to be concave like that? Assuming that it should be flat though, I'd say that any distortion is in the original mould, it wouldn't have occurred just from the moulding being pulled from the mould too soon while it was still a bit soft, though that wouldn't have helped. Can the hull be flexed into shape with just moderate pressure from your fingers, or is it too robust for that? If it can be flexed, it should be possible to straighten it, but heat alone isn't going to work. The way I'd do it is to cut a piece of 1.5 or even better 3mm ply to fit inside, chamfering all the edges carefully so it fits really well. Then, after sanding, dusting and cleaning the inside of the hull, cut a piece of glass mat to the same shape, and wet it out with resin inside the hull, I'd stick with polyester, though epoxy would also be OK. Then I'd support the outer edges of the hull with strips of 1.5mm ply, enough to force some slight convexity into the thing, you can always sand it flat later, and placing a pre-prepared length of straight and fairly hard wood on top of the ply, clamp the whole thing firmly to the edge of your workbench overnight. As an alternative, you could screw through a thinner length of wood inside the hull into something flat and solid on the outside, filling all the screwholes later, I've used this method to correct hogged hulls successfully in the past. If the hull moulding is too hefty to flex though, if you want it flat, you're going to have to fill in the concavity. The way I'd do it is to sand and clean the outside of the hull, and then epoxy a sheet of something like obechi the full length & width of the hull. Once again, clamp well overnight, and then plane and sand everything flat. Before doing this, I'd epoxy a few cross beams inside the hull to hold the shape.
Let us know how you get on.
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Thanks Men,
Done the hot water thing, as you can see its a lot better now, put the hull on a flat surface, (old mirror) then put a heavy lump of steel inside then added the boiling water. This was left for a few hours but the problem was, yeah you guessed it, the hull leaked so was getting in a right state in the kitchen water every where. I have made some formers to go inside the hull, it only needs slight pressure on these to make the hull fairly flat so with a thin coat of P 38 should be able to get it flat. Ah, then I reinstated the panel lines an rivits around the cockpit area that were covered in filler, quite pleased with this as you can see the before and after photo. Still loads to do on the hull, plus might have to move the formers about later as not sure what power set up I am using yet but least they will enable me to get the hull flat, think with a bit of P 38 here and there it will come out ok, its looking better already, thanks for your help, will keep you posted.
Steve.
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Looking better .............. ;D
ken
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Re: Photo with towel......Can I have a biscuit please Biscuit? ;D
BTW. As you are thinking of going brushless motor, do you have any experience with brushless?
.... not many people have, especially in boats.
Martin.
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Wouldn't want to pour cold water on your hot water treatment, but I tried that once with a distorted fibreglass hull. It worked a treat, but 24 hours later it was worse than before. Assuming they aren't going to get in the way, maybe if you fitted enough bulkheads straight away, it might hold something close to the correct shape, but kayem is right, to get rid of the concavity, I think you'll have to make it convex before you add any bulkheads, then you might end up with a flat bottom, that hull may have been distorted for years, it isn't going to give up the fight too easily.
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Re: Photo with towel......Can I have a biscuit please Biscuit? ;D
BTW. As you are thinking of going brushless motor, do you have any experience with brushless?
.... not many people have, especially in boats.
Hi Martin, Been using brushless motors for about 4 years now in my Helicopters and planes, will never go back to a brushed motor again, even got them in some of my model cars now. Also I was in at the start of the Lithium cells, another giant leap forward. My ECO 8 electric helicopter on a 4Sp pack will out perform my Raptor 30 which has an Irvine 39 in it. So yes got a bit of experience thought its time to stick one in a boat, think the Bluebird deserves it dont you ? :)
Martin.
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Did a bit more on the boat last night, cut out the cockpit and made the seat frame, took a load more material out of the back of the seat to lighten it, plus spent hours getting the rear engine cover to fit the hull. Going my own way on the rear cockpit bulk head, will fit cockpit runners then canopy and make baulkhead to fit this at the rear. Slapped on a bit of filler here and there and its not looking to bad, started to look good when I cut out the air intakes and did not need as much filler as I thought, going to have a go at the cockpit canopy tonight and the bit I am mostly looking forward to, the jet pipe.
Steve.
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Found this on the web - http://www.touchwoodmodels.com/ - seems they are still around.
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Yeah , They are very helpfull, been in contact a few times now, Stuart Delf has been replying to my e-mails, and steering me in the right direction, and do you need it on this kit !! :)
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Not sure If any one is interrested, but will post some pics anyway, let me know if you want to see anymore of the build, just taken a few shots as I have started to put this thing together, maybe help some one else out in the future. Kind of gone my own way on a lot of the assembly, many hours spent filling and sanding and getting parts to fit. Still coming along now, used carbon rods instead of the brass supplied to save weight, got to get a better fit of the out riggers to the hull, set it all up on a flat plate and glue it all together.
Biscuit.
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Looking a lot better now.
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Thanks Mate, Shall I keep them coming??
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Wow, now there's a head turner, bet its going to be really fast.....
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Oh Yes !! ;)
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Keep the pics coming Biscuit. The build is looking good.
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Yea please Keep the pics coming its looking good
Peter
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Yes keep them coming please
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She is looking good despite the moulding errors.
Bob
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Yeah, its marvelous what you can do with a Dremel and P38 filler, got most of the rivits back, filled the bottom so its dead flat then had another go at getting the outriggers to fit better, think its kind of better ??? Got the paint Fjord Blue, be a while before I start painting though. Just wanted to ask you guys what type of glue would be best to glue the resin plastic outriggers to the fibreglass hull ? bearing in mind it has a 3mm carbon rod running right through them ! I was going to use some 24 hour Araldite after I have roughed up the surface, this would also give me time to line everthing up. Let me know what you think, cant do much more until I get my alloy planing wedges, and not sure to build it all up and paint it or do it in sections. If I do paint it before assembly I will have to get the paint off the parts I have to glue, plus glue might get on to the painted parts as its put together, so what you all think??
Biscuit
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I would use devcon 1 ton its about an hour to go off at normal temperature and would Finnish it all before painting so if you decide you don't like something you can change it without thinking "oh I wish I hadn't painted it yet" what running gear are you using, and just a point on the 3mm carbon rod do you think it will be stiff enough ?I know it extremely strong but the brass tube would have had very little deflection as opposed to the carbon when I did model cars we used axles they had a habit of shearing of at the point of support "where it left the rear block" just wonder if you could use both.
Peter
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Yeah I know what you are saying Peter, would of liked to run a 6mm carbon rod right through, but the holes in the outriggers are 3mm, and don't want to really drill them out as they are at an angle to suit the hull, If you look close at the photo of the inside of the boat you can see I have managed to get a screw in there on the rear outriggers, might do this at the top as well this will help the front outriggers flexing back, does that make sense?? Can get glue up inside the sponsons onto the carbon rod so dint think this will come apart, but don't want them to move after its been painted! As for the motor been told a Mega 22/20/3 would be up to the job, and need a esc of about 70amp, not sure what esc to buy, Feigao 80amp looks good for the price, but have learend buy my helicopter mistakes cheaper can run out more expensive in the long run. Keep your comments comming men, don't want to spend too much money as it will only get a rare outing for demonstration, but its got to be fast !
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I am going for the Barracuda 80s as I need two I am waiting till the last moment to buy they have reverse Over the sponsons when it gets up on them its going to be like running a car over cobbles even when the water looks flat so it may be an idea to think of a way to allow them to move as a shock absorber then you can paint behind and there is less chance of them shearing of I think I would put some fishing line tethers on them as well , what running gear are you using . and castle sutf is available over hear by the way .Peter
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/barracuda.html
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/hydra.html
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Hello, I am following your Bluebird build, have you looked at the Bluebird Modellers Group website, lots of interest/help available. Mick
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Can you send me a link ? as these sites dont seem to be around any more.
Thanks.
Biscuit
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Can you send me a link as well please . Peter
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Bluebird Modellers Group are in Yahoo Groups, you will need to set up user/name/password etc, loads of members building or have already built the Touchwood K7. Including RC models using jet engines. Very helpful group. Mick
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Hello, if you are interested in the recovery of Donald Campbell and the Bluebird K7 from Coniston, go to...
http://www.bluebirdproject.com/
Mick
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Thanks Mick, I am allways on that site, especially now they have started the rebuild. Mine is coming along very slowly glued the outriggers on, but having to do loads of filling and making good, had to try and reinstate loads of rivits. Going to give it a coat of gray primer and see what I have got, plus the missing parts came today.
Biscuit.
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Right then, spent hours and hours filling and sanding this thing down, given it a coat grey primer quite pleased with the results, okay there is more work to do, but on the whole its looking good. Having the alloy planing wedges made now, when I get these I can fix the sponsons on, still a long way from getting that blue top coat on, as some of the rivits need to be reinstated and a lot of marks need to be sorted out but as I say going well.
Biscuit
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All One colour now.
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Looking good so far mate, enjoying watching ya build up esp while im signed off work for the week!!
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Very nice. ;D
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Thanks guys, going to be a slow build, not sure how far to go in sorting out those rivits, and still got to glue sponsons on, still no rush I suppose. :)
Biscuit.
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That's an impressive model :o I wasn't that impressed with how it looked when you first got it, not to mention the slightly iffy quality and fit of the kit!?
But you have done a superb job on it, hard to believe it's the same kit!? I'm looking forward to the painting stage, are you going to add a Campbell figure in the cockpit just for realism?
Voyager
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Oh yes !
Think I can get one from a place called Pete's Pilots, thanks for the comments, still waiting for the alloy planning wedges to be made, then I will fill the sponsons up with polystyrene and glue them on. At the moment I am going full steam with my gas boat shockwave surface drive conversion as you may of seen on this forum. :)
Biscuit
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Hi all,
Now I have finished the Shockwave, I can get back to do a bit more work on the BlueBird, had the alloy planning wedges made, been hollowed out and are very light, hope to get back into the project.
Biscuit.
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Well got back into the Bluebird to day,done a lot more than this but waiting for glue to dry. send more pics tomorrow.
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Hi all, Fitted the front alloy forward ramps today, you have to bend them down at 90 degrees and leave to overlap 1mm all the way round not an easy job but came out ok, used slow setting epoxy on all the alloy planes and ramps, should be ok as it will glue to the foam inside the Sponsons. And of course I just had to put it in the bath to see if it floats ! and guess what it does :) with only a very slightly bow down attitude, will now have to make up a water tight hatch, this is going to be a lot of work as I have to make a lip on the inside of the hull so I can fit the hatch in it and tape it down before a run. Looking for a motor now, the boat is not that heavy so thinking of something in the range of a 4500kv motor running on a 3cell lipo 3700mah and a Octura 3 blade X440 prop, maybe that 4500kv maybe a little high, so not sure yet. All I really want to do is spray it blue ! but thats a long way off at the mo, so will carry on plugging away and see how we get on.
Steve.
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Made the lip to support the water tight hatch today, used some plastic card after grinding a flat in the top of the hatch opening then gluing the plastic to it, bit o a nightmare but came out nice, one of the worse jobs done.
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O0
Looking great so far! Whats happened since june? Have you laid some colour down?
Keep em comming Biscuit.
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Well I kind of not done much, did not seem much interest on the site, it just needs the motor fitted and radio, but stuck it back on the shelf, and got back into my Helicopters, may just paint it and have it as a static model as lost interest. :(
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Oh man, don't do that, be such a waste after all that hard work. It looks really good now, get it on the water.... O0
Rich
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Yeah come on finish it and post the results here, you cant just leave us dangling here. You put a lot of good work into it , be a waste if you didnt see it through. :(
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Wow, thought no one was following this, think I have had this boat over a year now, I normally get things done straight away, so it don't look good on this model, I wanted to make it surface drive but been told that it runs better on submerged drive, so not sure what to do now, come back in another year or so :) maybe it might of moved on a little, but I would not hold your breath ! my hearts not in it anymore, just into my flying now, sorry guys.
Steve.
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Well then...sell it to me! :P
Rich
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Will think about it. :-\
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I'd rather you got stuck in and got it finished Biccie, you've put so much work into it up to now, but if the worst comes to the worst and you are sure....VERY sure, then give me a shout.
Rich
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And if Das Boot changes hus mind...
I just love the old hydros.
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Hello from Germany,
please go on with building your K-7. It looks very nice and you did a fantastic job till now! :-))
I am working on another Touchwood kit for over 3 years now. Sometimes it was frustrating me, but then I went on building.
But the fact is, that these kits are for static displaymodels only. And for this reason it will not be necessary, to do a correct bottom.
So we modelbuilders have to rework our own Bluebirds from the basics we got.
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Hi
I have built a 1/12 K4 from Touchwood. Ideally a finer grade of glass would have been more suitable. There was a lot of making good to do but got there in the end. Forget the resin/white metal bits they will only break and you are better off making your own. As for weight put lipo cells in and it will fly.
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I've the K-4 also. When the kit came to me, I was wondering about the hull. You could see single glassfibres in the gelcoat, and all frames of hatches or frames are 3mm wide and 2mm deep. So I started to fill all holes, and did the conversions, which are told me from Ernie Lazenby.
Maybe, this summer, my model will be ready.
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Would it be possible to post a couple of pics of the K4 without going off topic too far ?
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Hi arrow5,
here are some pics. All surfaces will be smooth, when ready. Also I plan to do a conversion of the K-4. I want to build the proprider twoseater from Lake Garda.
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Any updates on the K& build? Looking awesome!!
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Isn't it annoying when a thread just peters out?
What happened to these Touchwood Models?
But then, what happened to the Bluebird Modellers Group? It used to be so active, now it's dead.
Where ARE the scale speedboat and hydro guys?
If you don't want a badly moulded expensive kit, build it yourselves!
Touchwood had the drawings from somewhere!!
Regards,
Vintagent
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Causing some healthy problems in the last 4 years, I can't build as fast as before. So I will do one project after the other. But I think, my Touchwood K-4 will be go on in some weeks. Then I am ready with a Sunseeker Superhawk 40 and a Springer tug for my brothers son.
Don't know, what happened to our group. With beginning of 2010 I got some daily mails and then nothing in the last 5 months. <:(
Also have a pocket rocket, the laminated one, which will drive very soon.
Kind Regards,
Ernst
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I say make moulds of the clean hulls an then you have a good model to sell :-))
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Absolutely, but beware the Copyright police, they're everywhere.
They stalk forums and yahoo groups, warning...warning, ever warning, which is why they all make stuff that leaves us yawning,...yawning, ever yawning! Iif they make anything at all.
My old man said, "never ask, boy...Or some so*'ll say no". Bloomin' good advice.
Mould and be damned, sir!
Vintagent
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Well, I have given up on the boat, a few months ago I just went out and spent over £300 on the running gear, did not really have a clue as to what I was buying as there is not many guys who have built and run this boat on a brushless set up, but guy in the shop said it should work, so bought motor esc and other bits and pieces. I then found out that it was not really suitable for the model as KV was too high or something like that, asked guy in shop if he would take it all back so I could start again and he said the best he could do was give me a credit note :(( so its all gone back in the loft somewhere, I will wait till someone else builds one then copy them :-) I just cant spend anymore time or money on it not knowing what I am doing.
(http://s1.postimage.org/cZpgA.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxcZpgA)
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I`m glad I spotted this thread come alive again as I never thanked Ernst for posting pictures of the K4 (I had a heart attack about that time) I hope all is well in Bavaria Ernst , be sure to show Vintagent your mahogany boat. I wonder if the molds for the Touchwood models are still available for someone to have another go with them ? Is the Springer for your nephew going to be planked in fine wood and with 10 coats of varnish ?
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Eh?..What??? mahogany?? What's this, what's this????
Touchwood are still going, I'm sure, in fact they do a lot more than they used to as they're flogging 1/43rds of record boats too.
I think attacking them for so called quality problems is a damned cheek when people like Amati are allowed to get away with outrageously over priced blobs like their Riva Aquarama, one of which I was unfortunate enough to have to build for a customer when work was thin.
You'd bite Touchwood's hands off if you saw the Amati kit, believe me. It was part filled with Polyfilla!! The fittings were a joke and needed replacing, the wood was off a matchbox, etc., etc.
By comparison, I'd love a Touchwood. Nice people too.
East Anglian Solidarity rules, man...
Regards,
Vintagent
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Aw geez, now you`ll have the Amati lawyers at your door ! I remember someone offering K4 plans but cant remember who. I think Ernst was doing a Baby Boozer-ish prohibition era boat, might have been a Yank car manufacturer, Dodge ???? Yep I think he`ll have to plank that Springer for the jungend !
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Eh?..What??? mahogany?? What's this, what's this????
I was unfortunate enough to have to build for a customer when work was thin.
You'd bite Touchwood's hands off if you saw the Amati kit, believe me. It was part filled with Polyfilla!! The fittings were a joke and needed replacing, the wood
Regards,
Vintagent
I didnt think Amati used or supplied Polyfilla!!
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Ah well that was helpfull :-)) I am sure this thread was for the K7 !! this is why my boat is up in the loft as this is all I get.
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aw sorry Biscuit :embarrassed: Get K7 down out of the loft we ARE interested, you know how it goes one thing leads to another :-X We`d all love to see it running. Sorry for wandering off topic.
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Biscuit,
tell us exactly what you want and we'll give it to you, between us. I mean I can talk you round any modelmaking problem you like, but I wouldn't know one end of a flexidrive and "strudder" from a jet's orifice, but there are those who do.
It seems you have done a great deal so far (especially those neat ally planing shoes) so there isn't a lot left to get sorted.
As an Essex boy myself, I don't think you should give it up so easily. You won't find many K7s around and the transmission system you really need can always be designed by someone on here. If what you have is wrong, you can also sell it on here and tell us all what crap shop sold it to you, so we don't go there (by PM, I suppose).
So you will very quickly have a very unusual model in running order...but you do need to keep poking the thread back on line.
My Amati comments were to show a favourable comparison between an established make and a tiny one man band from Norwich whose product you thoughtwas bad, in order to show you that it really wasn't so bad after all, especially as the K7 is a much more difficult shape than a Riva.
Regards,
Vintagent
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Look Guys, I have asked everyone about the running gear for this boat, there is only one person that has done it, I wish I had seen it before I bought the motor and such, but no one can tell me if my motor will work in this boat, every body has taken the money and run, even so called experts, but I wont name them >:-o
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Hi, I am new to boats but have used brushless motors for years and know them pretty well. If the kv is high, would it not be possible to just use a lower pitch prop? thats what we do with planes. I realise this changes the efficiency etc of a prop, but brushless motors are pretty powerful, why not just use a smaller dia prop?
The model looks very impressive, It's only a gearing issue after all, would it be impractical to use a small lightweight gearbox to drop it down?
Matt
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Hi Biscuit.
Don't be discouraged I too am new to electric power so here are some pics of my Bluebird.
I didn't set out to have a super scale model, I wanted one that would be fast and get up on it's wedges. I can agree with you on the quality of the moldings from TOUCHWOOD I only bought the main hull and the sponsons but I had to return mine as there were holes in the 45deg joint, but to be fare to TOUCHWOOD it was replaced with apologies and a complimentary tail fin and a set of decals.
My hull also had a convex bottom but as it wasn't to be a super scale I lived with it and it would possibly give a bit of lift.
Some of the mods that I made included grinding of all the rivets as they were about a scale as the rivets in the Queen Mary, a new tail fin was made from thin laminated ply and the sponson wedges increased in width at the rear of the sponsons, filled with balsa and skinned with thin plasti-card.
I have used 3/8" Ali tube as supports and have left them uncovered until i discovered how the boat performed.
The engine hatch is loose fitted and is taped up with water proof tape when running.
The drive system is a brushless 2750 kv motor with a 70 amp water cooled E.S.C. both purchased from Prestwich Model Center, the shaft is 3/16" dia St/St
and is at as shallow an angle as possible and the rear wedge has been left out as it could restrict the water flow to the prop which is a carbon fibre 37mm dia, battery is 8.4v x 3700 m amp.
I have tried to keep the boat as light as possible and have left out all baulk heads and resin molded fittings and now have a 1.5kg boat + 450g battery.
All I can say is that it is very fast and looks great on the water and I will be completing it soon, will send you some pics of it on the water when I can get my mates to photograph it at speed, I ccouldn't get pics as my radio is on it's last legs and so far have only had some short runs..
I can't say how yours will go with all the resin fittings and the Ali sponsons with the reduced area at the rear but have a go and don't get disheartened .
I have been involved with steam projects for some time so this is a bit of a diversion, have a look on STEAM R&D and see what I have been up to in the past.
George.
(http://s3.postimage.org/ijI8A.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqijI8A)
(http://s3.postimage.org/ijPD0.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqijPD0)
(http://s2.postimage.org/GxhfS.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsGxhfS)
(http://s4.postimage.org/3DelS.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV3DelS)
(http://s3.postimage.org/ik15J.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pqik15J)
(http://s1.postimage.org/bANl0.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxbANl0)
(http://s3.postimage.org/ik3AS.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pqik3AS)
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are there any basic plans for the bluebird around as I want to build a turbine model an it would be perfect
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Hi Biscuit,
Here are some pics of my K7 in full flight and it's very very fast.
Motor :-- BL2845 2700kv Brushless and 70amp water cooled E.S.C. from Prestwich Model Center.
Battery :--- 7 Cell sub C 8.4V x 3700 amp hr. turning a 36 mm carbon Hydro prop ( Graupner )
I can now get on with finishing the sponsons and get all the decals on, must say that I am very pleased with it so have a go, get your K7 out on to the water.
George.
(http://s2.postimage.org/3u4xA.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts3u4xA)
(http://s2.postimage.org/3uouJ.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts3uouJ)
(http://s3.postimage.org/yrJFA.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqyrJFA)
(http://s2.postimage.org/3v1p0.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts3v1p0)
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Hello from Germany,
very nice pics of K-7!!! :-))
My K-4 is still sleeping, cause I have to do other things first. But next winter is coming soon and I had been at lake garda this year.
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Hi Promocean,
The stills of K7 really don't show the speed at which it travels and our lake is quite small so I can't let it really go. have a look at the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjckMFo6TUE
This was taken on a dull day but will let you see K7 at speed.
I have had it out on Loch Lomond which is near where I live and on a flat calm day it was really motoring and with all that space if not careful it was out of sight..
George.
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Thanks to you George my Touchwood Bluebird is nearly ready to go :-)
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Nice one biscuit :-))
I've only just seen this thread as I've only been a member on here for a few months.
What setup have you settled on - motor/esc/batteries/prop
Mark.
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Well its been a long build this, been nearly 5 years, most of the time it has sat on the top of the wardrobe gathering dust, but bought a Shockwave 26 (very good boat) and was looking for some info on it on another forum and I came across George, he had built the Touchwood Bluebird and got it running well, even posted on this forum for me to get it up and running, but because I had given up on the boat and this forum I never saw it. But now in 2 days I have got this far and nearly ready to run. Motor is 2881 Kv, prop is Graupner 36mm diameter x 50mm pitch 3 blade hydro, Esc is ETTI Navy 150amp, Cells 2x 3cell 2200mah through a Y lead to give me 4400mah, Hitec Hs 81 rudder servo, Astec Models rudder and strut, water cooled motor mount. The only difference to my boat and George`s boat is I run the cells lower down each side of the hull, still can get the correct C/G, will make a water tight hatch to cover it all and tape it on before I fit the top cowling. George did have a concern about my front planing wedges, as I have made them out of alloy and the same as the scale ones, this may mean I will have trouble getting up on the plane but we will have to see how it goes. I am going to glue 2 carbon plates inside of the hull to Velcro the cells in, and one in the rear to mount the esc, so not going too bad.
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Hi Biscuit
Every thing looks fine , I would suggest that you twist the water pick up a bit to the left and in direct line with the prop blade and nearer to the top of the blade.
My water pickup goes directly to the E.S.C. and then to the motor and exits through the small pipe next to my pickup in the stern.
I have been thinking about getting K7 water tight and suggest that as you have the white lip around the hull you could cut a piece of light gauge plastic, preferably clear,to over lap the white edging by say 1/8" and then with some sealing tape, tape it down which would make it watertight.
I use tape bought from ASTEC which the fast Electric boys use for sealing hatches and as I have 2- sets of Lipo's it's only a matter of pealing of the tape, installing the fresh batteries and having another run. I get about 10 mins of run time.
It's very important to get the hull water tight as K7 burys itself in the water as you switch on the power before it gets up on the plane, just like the real K7.
Don't be afraid to put on full power it will lean to which ever hand you have on the prop but pops up onto the plane and runs virtually hands off in a straight line.
You need plenty of water as it's FAST and remember to give plenty of space when you cut the motor as it will run on quite a bit.
If the Ali wedges don't work it will be easy to remedy it
Any further questions don't hesitate to ask.
George.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2ti8ew5no/water_pickup.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ti8ew5no/)
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Well I have glued in the battery mounts and esc platform, stuck the Velcro on the esc mounts and cells, what would we do without Velcro :-) it all fits in perfect very pleased with it now. George, I have had to drill another hole and move the water pick up over and even put a set in it to get it closer the centre of the prop best I can do because of the strut, I used the old hole for the outlet ! I am hoping to get some plastic sheet for the hatch, the top cowl I will mount with a dowel at the front and some type of fastener at the rear, may even use a magnet, will stick some foam it the top in case it comes off ! Now I want to try and run it before I paint it, but cant see how to make it waterproof without gluing the canopy on, did not want to do this till it was painted, should I just go ahead and paint it before I run it or find some way of sealing the front, how do I glue the canopy on ? thing is I did want to put the seat and driver figure in but cant do that if the canopy's on so not sure what next move is, hope its not back on top of the wardrobe :((
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Hi Steve.
I don't want to hear any more about "BACK UP ON THE WARDROBE", lets get this K7 finished and on the water, you have come too far now to give up.
It's most important that you get the cockpit sealed as I have said she tries to bury herself in the water on start up.
You will have to seal the canopy and down the back of the seat to stop any ingress of water, this is one of the points that I sacrificed scale appearance for.
I left out the canopy runners and sealed it down with CANOPY glue and after all the time that I have been running my K7 no water has managed past the seal, my initial test was to hold it under the water for a few minutes to ensure there were no leaks.
This is the glue that the flyboys use and it doesn't mist or fog the perspex of the canopy.
You could finish of the seat and the paint it, install your pilot and then paint the runners which would then allow you to glue on the canopy and if you don't want to finish the over all paint job before test running and then mask of for final paint when you have her running..
The water pick up is best sited to the middle of the blade, just give it a little twist upwards.
Here are 2- pics of my canopy and the glue used, you can see my battery monitor in the space where Donald should be ,I slide it in velcro'd to a piece of ply, from inside the hull.
Everything looks good and I look forward to hear how you proceed.
George.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2jvdz1gjo/Canopy_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jvdz1gjo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2jvfmkt1g/Canopy_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jvfmkt1g/)
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Well got the Spektrum Rx today and bound it to my Shockwaves Proboat transmitter, made a little plate to stick it on and programed the esc, you have to listen to a load of beeps and things, for an esc this expensive you would of thought it would of had a programing card, never mind done now. Ran it up but the Teflon tube is spinning in the brass tube for some reason {:-{ and is very noisy, made up a bulkhead behind the seat and been playing about with the dashboard and steering wheel, think I am just going to go ahead and paint it and hope for the best otherwise it will never get on to the water, weight crept up to 1820g :((
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Steve,
I painted mine with Auto shop spray paint and have had a few episodes with it requiring some re painting, this hasn't been a problem as the paint matches in very well.
I would finish of the cockpit seat and paint if required, paint around the slide bars and spray paint the hull, when dry glue in the canopy with cockpit glue and test for leakages, love the steering wheel , where did that come from ?
I can't offer any advice on the Teflon inner tube as I have never had a flexi-drive but possibly ask on the other forum and you will get an answer, there seams to be more interest on fast electric hardware there.
I can't stress the importance of the hull being water tight, I was out last night at the club and on one of my runs I passed over the wake of another boat and K7 nose dived and flipped over, when it was rescued there was no damage and still completely water tight after being upturned for about 5 mins.
Keep at it your nearly there.
George
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I am trying George, just sat there tonight thinking how I could fit top cowel but it aint happening, maybe get some kind of spring catch {:-{ Shame you cant just buy a ready to run :-) still got a lot done in the last few weeks, maybe take some time off again and come back to it in a few months as had enough now taking up too much of my time, thanks for the help.
Steve.
Ps dash came in the kit.
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one of the guys at richmond park has got a bluebird
dont know the scale, this thing goes like stink.
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Hi Chas,
Don't know if you have seen the Vids of my K7 so here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjckMFo6TUE
When my box comes up in the top L/H corner is a box showing 5 videos.
The first is K7 on 7 x 8.4v 3700 amp Nimh batteries and the Other one is on 3s Lipo's.
I have just realised who SPITFIRE is.
George.
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Hi George
Just had a look very impressive, :-))
should be at the park a week on sunday,
maybe see you their.
Chas
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Hi Chas,
I'll be there and will bring K7 with me.
George.
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Hi George
look forward to seeing you and the K7.
Chas
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Well mines back on the shelf, just come to a stop, never mind having fun with my shockwave 26 on a 60amp esc and 3 cell :-) there is a company who makes the Bluebird ready to run, I will find the link. :-) bit pricey but look nice, not sure if my gear will fit in it {:-{
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Just found it !
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130327837454&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNASIF:GB:1123
They do all scales http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUEBIRD-K7-1-10-BUILT-FULLY-MODEL-R-C-DISPLAY-/130328124583?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item1e58295ca7
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Thought you might like to know what colour bluebird K7 really was. It was first painted in 1955 in a Mercedes colour called Himmelblau (spelling?). (German for Sky Blue apparently).
Car paint suppliers can mix it and supply it in an aerosol.
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Biscuit did you check out the you tube vid of the original Lazenby model - seriously impressive
Geoff
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNBRa3oKit8
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Video of my Touchwood Bluebird at the link below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5VxqnYZo_w
The build was a close copy of OOYAH's whose advice I followed every step of the way. Now that she is finally watertight (liberal use of Epoxy resin in every seam), she goes well :-). Next step should be to switch to Lipos but I am not sure of my ability to control her at higher speeds %%.
(http://s3.postimage.org/khyet0n8/20110814_50b.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/khyet0n8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/ki9zkg3o/20110814_64a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ki9zkg3o/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/kidan538/20110814_83a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kidan538/)
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Wow - Small world ! Having been following this thread with interest for some time I was naturally very interested in seeing the K7 in action and up close at my local club this morning. Seeing this video on Mayhem, all I can say is that she runs fantastic and looks great. Black Park makes a good Lake Coniston :-))
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Hi Jeremy,
Well done , she looks absolutely Fab, stick with the NimH until you become familiar with K7.
It makes a big difference when water tight.
George.
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Nice work Jeremy, looks like its running very well now, great vid looks like its right out of the water :-)
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Thinking of selling the Bluebird anyone interested, I have had enough of it !!
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interested but how much ?
Peter
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£450
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£450
No thanks
Peter
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So what you want to pay, ?