Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Other Technical Questions... => Topic started by: Bob K on April 30, 2013, 09:31:43 am
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Silly question, but I am trying to find a specific kind of power tool, but without knowing its name I am trawling Google in vain.
A small bench mounted power tool with a circular section ‘blade’ that reciprocates for cutting out intricate small shapes in thin ply with a small table for guiding the work piece.
Fretsaws jigsaws and coping saws all have flat blades with teeth on one end, no good for tight internal curves or even corners. It is the kind of power tool that used to be made for cutting out jigsaw pieces.
If I can establish what it is called I will have a better chance of sourcing it, and the blades.
Can you help please?
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Try Googling a "Vibrosaw".
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I have a scrollsaw but I don't use the standard coping saw type blades I get the special ones with the tooth wrapped around the blade for cutting in any direction, perfect for jigsaws!
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Piercing saws have a blade that can cut in all directions
Wayne
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Anyone got any any pictures please. ?
ken
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It's called a Laser :-))
The type of blade you are referring to was used for cutting metal mainly and was called an "Abrafile". It was made in three "Cuts", Fine, Medium and - - - . Fitted into a standard hacksaw frame with special clips to hold the bobble on the ends of the blades. Don't remember seeing a wood version but the name may stir someone elses grey slush.
Regards Ian.
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Always thought jigsaw puzzles were made by jigsaws before CNC and Laser Cutters %) %) %)
Ned
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Thank you all. At least I have now progressed through jigsaw fret coping jewellers etc, all of which appear to have flat single-sided blades. I was just onto "Abrafile", and noting online comments as to unavailability of blades, when that was suggested. 50 years ago my Dad had a powered jigsaw, reciprocating circular blade, and a small table with a keyhole that the blade went through. I will next check out "Laser".
If I still had access to CAD . . . Replicate shapes and send out for laser cutting. Simples. However . . .
Task: 3 sections of hurricane deck. 4 mm wide surround on each (to be done in sections) from 3mm ply.
I had thought that with a powered 'abrafile' section blade and a 'shoe' table cutting would be more controllable.
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I don't have an answer to your enquiry, but maybe a solution to your problem.
I had a similar job once, and unable to get any sort of advanced tools easily here I did it the old fashioned way.
Cutting close to the line, and then using sanding sticks (sandpaper stuck to a stick). Not only highly controllable, it was also a lot faster than I thought it was going to be. As a result of my little discovery, I bought some Permagrit tools and had them shipped.
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Good idea Tigertiger. It may come to that. O0
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Hi Bob K
I think what you are looking for is made by Proxxon and called a "spiral toothed scroll saw blade" it will cut in any direction.
I'm sure others make the same thing but the Proxxon one is a available from Axminster Power Tools - code 504754.
Hope it helps
Les
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http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-proxxon-spiral-toothed-scroll-saw-blades-prod791632/ (http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-proxxon-spiral-toothed-scroll-saw-blades-prod791632/)
So can this be fitted to any scrollsaw table with proxxon compatible blade mounts?
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Thank you for that. The blades (pk of 12 only) can be fitted into a 130mm hand fret frame, and will also fit this rather neat powered version - also from Axminster . . .
Jet JSS-16 Bench Top Variable Speed Scroll Saw
http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jet-jss-16-bench-top-variable-speed-scroll-saw-prod365272/?searchfor=100402 (http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jet-jss-16-bench-top-variable-speed-scroll-saw-prod365272/?searchfor=100402) £106, free delivery. Very tempted as could be a good investment for the workshop.
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These scrollsaws are only suitable, in terms of accuracy, on the thinnest of materials such as liteply etc. I've found that a fine scroll saw blade in a standard handheld jigsaw is much more accurate and far easier to control and use. This is just my experience. Bench scrollsaws require a lot of practice to be used efficiently. I bought a bench scrollsaw 10 years ago and its only been out of the box twice. It's still boxed on a shelf in the garage. %)
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I have a powered fretsaw that pretty much does what you describe, the smallest radius is about 1mm, you just need a steady hand. mine has a sprung arm and an electromagnet under the table, wont cut your finger if you touch the blade as your finger catches in the teeth and vibrates with the blade, mine is a spiralux (shapercraft) model 1000 (the early model shown here http://www.asheilasshed.com.au/scroll.htm )
Grendel
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even with standard fretsaw type blades you just stand still and rotate on the spot to get tight corners, or just attack the sharp corner from two sides by cutting across the sharp radius then going back to do the corners, mine will go a lot tighter than jigsaw pieces on a standard flat blade.
Grendel
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(http://s7.postimg.org/seldrmm13/IMG_3259.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/seldrmm13/)
(http://s17.postimg.org/9sglljx3v/IMG_3260.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9sglljx3v/)
Grendel
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Hi All
Scroll / Fret saw blades possibly the hardest blade to use but good fun {-)
= [size=78%]http://www.shesto.co.uk/Hand-Tools-Saws-&-Saw-Blades-Olson-Scroll-Saw-Blades/c227_84_116/p1726/Olson-Spiral-Scrollsaw-Blades/product_info.html (http://www.shesto.co.uk/Hand-Tools-Saws-&-Saw-Blades-Olson-Scroll-Saw-Blades/c227_84_116/p1726/Olson-Spiral-Scrollsaw-Blades/product_info.html)[/size]
Timo2
a old tool dealer
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Good info. :-))
Please excuse me if I try to explain my problem with hand fretsaws / jigsaws.
The hand held version requires you clamp the work (to something like a Workmate) then after limited operation to have to keep reclamping the work as you can only rotate the saw frame so far, without undoing the blade clamps. In addition a Workmate is a lot lower than a workbench, so to keep visually checking the blade stays vertical it often ends up me having to kneel. (Painful !!!)
It just seems that having a powered circular-section blade at a practical height, that stays vertical, and you can rotate the work piece instead, seemed a much more comfortable scenario for getting accurate results.
Grendel's saw photos looks superb.
PS: I have an airbrush which only comes out about once a year but I have found it invaluable. OK, that took a while of practice too.
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A ceramic tile saw blade is round and robust enough to be used in any direction, I have one in a std hand use fret saw frame but would think that it could fit into a reciprocal saw machine
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Bob, pm sent