Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: malcf on May 23, 2013, 07:41:08 pm
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Hi %) i am Malc from Oldham,
I have just returned to modelling after about a 9 year break, i have previously built 2 boats from plans an RAF rescue boat and a trawler and numerous model aircraft.
I have just ordered the Lloydsman hull and plans set off Kingston Mouldings and eagerly await delivery,I have a reasonable workshop with a homebuilt cnc router and minilathe which i hope to utilise in the build,I will be posting some questions after perusing the plans and look forward to your help. :-))
Also do i have to do this verification every time i post? i hope not %%
http://www.kingstonmouldings.co.uk/pdlloydsman.htm
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Hi malc , welcome im a newbie too! :embarrassed:
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{-) Welcome to the fun house and yes you do for about six posts,happy modelling,Ray.
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Hi and welcome Malc
Paul
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I'll add my welcome as well Malc, (WELCOME TO THE MAYHEM ! ! ! )
I know you'll enjoy the crack on here.
Vic (Sparky)
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Welcome verification ends after 10 posts just to check u are human !
Dave
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Thankyou everybody for the warm welcome,just waiting now to welcome the postman with my goodies :} .
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Hello Malc,
I rebuilt a Lloydsman acquired from EBay this time last year, built on a Kingston Mouldings Hull. They sold me a set of plans which were helpful but as an average level builder they still left a few doubts as to quite what the occaisional square on the plans was. There are quite a few pictures available through Google but not many of models. Look at Solent Radio Control Model Boat Club website at www.srcmbc.org.uk (http://www.srcmbc.org.uk/) where you will find two models, mine and Ray's (who I got some good info from). Happy to send you details of my motor/prop set up and electrics if it will be of any help. Don't get talked into too powerful a motor. A couple of suppliers that I talked to were thinking 48 inch Tug, which would normally be 12-13 inches wide. This is only 9 inches wide and more like a merchant ship hull than traditional Tug.
Best of luck
John
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Hi John thanks for the info i already have a motor and wiper type speed controller that i was given a few years ago its a MFA marlin do you think that will be ok it has a quarter inch shaft on both ends.Any info on prop and motor fitting would be welcome.
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John i have looked at the photos and the boats look very impressive,I am thinking about doing the 5 rudder setup as i have seen it done on another model tug using gears and toothed pulleys, not set in stone at the moment but an option i have 40 odd years of engineering experience to call upon if i decide to go that way,i wont be rushing the build.
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Hi Malc,
Thanks for looking at the Solent Club website. I used a Mobile Marine Models T12 Motor and a two and a half inch four bladed prop. I do not know the motor you have, perhaps somebody else could advise on that. I tried a three inch prop but this produced an unrealistic performance and was difficult to manouvre at slow speeds, or even get a slow speed from it. The motor was fitted to the MMM mounting plate and then to an existing board on the bottom of the boat. I ended up with an extra short shaft and two couplings in order to fit the motor on the existing plate and get access through the aft hatch under the winch house. This was all necessary as I was working with a part completed model, a constraint you will not have. I would however suggest you position the motor below the aft winchouse in order to get easy access once the model is made.
My model weighs in at 11.5 Kg. I also fitted a Technobots sound system, actually designed by a Solent club member. I put a 4 inch speaker right at the front of the hull.
I'm sure that we should be able to set up an email link somehow through this website without revealing details to the world. Again perhaps a kind member could advise me which bit I haven't filled in to make this possible. I know it's easy - I just haven't been told how to do it!
John
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%% Got my fibreglass Lloydsman hull today :} now i can start planning the build,my first job is the stand for it, i have seen some stands with rope attached to them to act as handles, are they used to carry it to the pond side? or to lift it into the water, if the latter then i will need to give it a good coat of varnish. {:-{
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Rope handles are usually incorporated onto the cradle to carry to the pondside.
Some people make strops from a variety of materials i.e. old timing belts, nylon rope etc...the strops are normally slid under the hull, 1 for'd and 1 aft, for lifting the vessel in or out of the water. Just make sure it's evenly balanced when you lift (I've seen them slide and take a dive - onto concrete...Ouch !)
Regards,
Ray.
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I make slings out of nylon rope with a section covered in self-amalgamating rubber tape to provide a non-slip finish for the hull. This stuff is available from places like Screwfix/Toolstation for much less than certain other places and IMHO is second only to the humble cable tie in terms of usefulness.
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Thanks for clearing that up for me, one problem solved many more to go.
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I have seen boats slip from various types of belts.
I use old timing belts to lift my boats, to avoid them slipping off
I have fitted an adjustable strap at the bottom of the loop
to keep the belts at a set width for size of the boat I am lifting.
That way the belts can,t slip, I hope {:-{
john
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Here are a few pics of my attempts at making a korte nozzle:-
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Here are a few more pics, the rudder mechanism has taken up quite a bit of time :-X just hope it works ok, i have decided to use a 1/4 scale servo for the three rudders on the stern and a normal servo for the two forward ones which will only be used when reversing, the motor is a MFA Torpedo that i was given a few years ago i am hoping it will be ok without gearing it down it is coupled to a 12" m5 propshaft fitted with a 70 mm 4 blade plastic prop :embarrassed: will probably change this for a brass item. O0
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Come to think about it it is a Marlin so i may end up gearing it 2.1 >>:-( wont the speed controller slow it down to a scale speed?.
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I think i will opt for the torpedo 800 and save the marlin for a later project O0 something like a fast patrol boat.
I am wondering what speed controller to go for, i could do with one that would cope with the marlin so as to save buying two :-)) .
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I have searched the net and found an article which states the marlin revving to 5000 under no load and the author compared it to the torpedo 800 as very similar and talked about the torpedo 850 as revving to 9000 plus so it looks like i will stick with the marlin :-)) ,I very nearly ordered a 800 torpedo last night glad i didnt {-) .
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Just found this label-
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Just been looking at the plan and on the stern there are two gobbing bollards drawn in plan, can anyone describe them for me {:-{ i have no side elevation to them and also what are dolly bars i have done a search on the net and it only comes up with people spitting etc. :o
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You can just see them on this pic:
http://leithbuiltships.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/lloydsman.html (http://leithbuiltships.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/lloydsman.html)
The gobbing bollards are to attach a rope between to restrict the movement of the main towing wire.
For a "gog rope"
There are several types of "Dolly bars" where are they on your plan.
Bob
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A little off thread Bob.....small world.....but that first image is of the steam ferry South Steyne crossing between North & South heads at the entrance to Sydney harbour.....
Her keel was laid at the yard of Henry Robb's in Leith on the 14 th October 1937 ....... Derek
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The dolly bars are on the stern at 10 o clock and 2 o clock positions,Are the gobbing bollards just standard twin upright bollards? is it just there position on deck and their use that makes the difference?.
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The Dolly bars are just vertical bars that will restrict the tow wire moving.
These are usually right in the stern and can be used with a gog rope but not on their own.
From the pic the bollards look like 45 degree bollards.
Yes the bollards are placed there only for the gog rope.
The ones I have used are usually a cruciform bollard.
Derek,
Just googled Lloydsman images.
It is easier to look when you know what you are looking for.
Bob
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:o & Bob said........"Derek, just googled Lloydsman images....it is easier to look when you know what you are looking for"
Bob...I understand all that O0 ..it was just when I opened the WEB page you presented.....there was the image of that JOLLY GREEN WAVE that I had seen many years ago in another publication
A trip on the ferry South Steyne from Circular Quay to Manly or out to sea was spectacular............ :-)) Derek
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Derek,
I just wonder why it was on the Lloydsman page.
Obviously just for your memories!!!
Bob
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Build update- had a go at converting a servo to work as an anchor winch :-)) ,had a look at some different types of anchor winch on u tube and liked the one that drops the anchor freefall but decided it was a bit complex for me at the moment, i have decided to have both anchors operating and have utilised cotton reels made for sewing machines,they have about ten holes around the rim and i have built a hub with a ball bearing protruding and a ballpoint pen spring behind it to give tension the ball locates in one of the holes in the reel and is adjustable by a grub screw behind it.
I have tried it out and the reel slips when the chain is held so it will stop when the anchor is wound in, had a bit of a problem with the chain i bought as it was on the thin side and open link and opened up occasionally :embarrassed: have ordered new and stronger chain and will fit a weak link near the anchor so i dont winch the boat under O0 O0
I have made the winch removable so i can modify later if reqd have also cut the funnel sections out and done some work on the deck and superstructure sections out of 3mm plywood this part i am feeling my way with as the plans are very basic to say the least and i am constantly reffering to photos of the real boat and also photos John Tyberg has emailed me thanks again John :-)) .
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Its been a while since i last posted :embarrassed: ,so i thought i had better bring you up to date O0 i have built the superstructure and have used 1/8 balsa for the sides and 1/8 ply for the horizontal deck sections with the intention of cutting out the windows and portholes later,everything was ok until i tried cutting out the holes {:-{ they came out horrible and stringy with strands of balsa all over >:-o ,i attempted to tidy them up but gave up on the idea <:( and i am now removing the sides one by one, i have routed out new ones out of 1/8 ply along with the cutouts,i have primed and sprayed them on the outer face and have fitted windows out of 2mm lexan that i have routed leaving a flange all round, these have been glued onto the rear surface with RC modellers glue the one they use for clear canopies on aircraft and they are looking ok. %%
The twin funnels are made, i had initially dreaded making these but they where quite easy the only hard bit was drilling out the centres for the smoke machine to discharge into this is made out of clear lexan slightly bigger than the ones from MMB,s it utilises a fogger from Maplins and a 12volt fan the 24 volt power for the fogger comes from a module i bought on Ebay from China it only cost £4 including delivery this sits along side a couple of boards from Component shop one is a fuse board and the other allows me to use two batteries of the same size and type without fear of back charging, i am using 12 volt 7ah gell cells and i have also used a 25 amp speed controller a viper marine this however i have found to be noisy it makes the motor screech at low revs,The smoke machine exhausts into a short length of 22mm pipe then into a copper 22 to 15 tee splitting into two vertical 15mm pipes running up the funnels it looks quite impressive in the workshop,today i have just drilled the holes in the hull for the portholes (these are a sore point as i ordered them and they took over a month to arrive after ignored emails and empty promises on the phone had to eventually threaten them with informing my card holder <*< before they took action when they came 2 packs where the wrong size >>:-( only one was correct needless to say they wont be getting anymore buisness from me) >>:-( >>:-( So i placed an order with Cornwall model boats and they came a couple of days later %% %% should have dealt with them in the first place :-)) PS will post some pics shortly.So to sum up i have learned a few lessons using balsa with hindsight i would opt for making the superstructure out of plasticard in future, the next build will def be styrene or lexan,I have had the boat in a test tank to check the displacement and set my battery positions it looks like i wont need a lot of ballast i used an old 7 ah gell cell this will be replaced by my smoke machine tank inc water i am near my displacement now so i will have to be carefull how much extra weight it puts on or i will have to get busy with the drill cutting lightning holes etc. {-)
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Here are a few photo,s as promised :-)) still have a lot to do ,( a lot more time and work than aero modelling me thinks) O0
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Oops should have been more pics here goes :embarrassed:
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Here's a pic of the circuit board the board on the left is the Chinese 12 volt to 24 volt transformer bought on Ebay :-)) absolute bargain,it will actually go up to 28 volt there is an adjuster on the blue item this is to power the smoke generator, the other 2 boards are a fuse board and a twin battery board by Action Electronics.
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Fitted a Technobots sound module this week,i am quite impressed with it i fitted the recommended speaker in the bow pointing upwards towards the superstructure, it is on a piece of 3/8 plywood that will be removable to gain access to the anchor winch mechanism, i had the boat in the test tank today and found i am just below the waterline mark so will have to carry out some lightening where i can as i still have to attach all the fittings yet worst case scenario is to lose a battery <:( dont want to do this so will be drilling some holes. {-) message to self no more working gadgets >>:-( could always repaint the waterline :embarrassed: lower.
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{-) message to self no more working gadgets >>:-( could always repaint the waterline :embarrassed: lower.
OOPS! I meant higher O0 (thought somebody would have picked up on this long ago)
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How much does it vary ? Have you tried a float test. ?
Altering the waterline involves a lot of work.
Ken
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Iexpect it to sit about 4 or 5 mm above the waterline when i have finished it,have done a water tank test with all electrics and batteries in with superstructure on but missing mast and most of the deck fittings and was on the waterline at that, i have a home made smoke unit fitted that has a rather large water tank, i could reduce the volume of this,it was filled during the test it holds at least a litre of water i didnt want to run out of smoke you see. {-)
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Hi Malc,
Good to see the progress you are making. Superb Model. My Lloydsman weighs in at just under 11Kg.
Yours
John
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Hi thanks John i hav,nt weighed it yet :embarrassed:my build is on the heavy side so probably up on yours will do it soon though :-)).
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Heres a pic of the circuit board the board on the left is the Chinese12 volt to 24 volt transformer bought on Ebay :-)) absolute bargain,it will actually go up to 28 volt there is an adjuster on the blue item this is to power the smoke generator, the other 2 boards are a fuse board and a twin battery board by Action Electronics.
Hello Malc
would you have a link to the 12v to 24v transformer. I could use one of these to power the 24v atomised I have instead of 2 12v batterys. many thanks
john
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Boost-Converter-10-32V-to-12-35V-150W-Step-Up-Voltage-Module-6A-Adjustable-/300933289543?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4611059647
very good value at the price and was delivered in under 2 weeks.
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thanks for the link . just ordered one.
many thanks
john
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Same here ordered another one for my next project Hms Dragon type 45 %%
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Hello malc, nice to see another modeller from Oldham (although I have moved now) how did your Lloydsman turn out? It was a couple of years back I noticed. U2
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If you want to lighten ship then ditch the smoke generator and water tank. This is a motorship not a Puffer. Under way, any emission from the exhaust uptakes would have been a slight haze and certainly not visible as continuous smoke unless they had duff injectors or similar.
Cheers,
Barry M
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Hi the Lloydsman is still an ongoing project she sails ok still need to add some detail on her and block up the anchor openings as she takes water in there and do away with the working anchor, I am presently distracted from her as I am building a Burke class warship but I will return to her in due course. :embarrassed: you know how it is. O0
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Do you sail in Alexander park or is there a new venue nowadays? U2
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I sail at Clarence Park Bury sorry for the seven year wait for a reply :embarrassed: Alexandra Park is a no no as it has been handed over to a fishing club to run and the council are not interested.