Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Tugs and Towing => Topic started by: wayne d on July 29, 2013, 09:38:31 pm
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This will be a build for a scratch build Klimek Tugboat. I have built several other scratch built boats and all turned out pretty good.
Now I'm wanting to build a Tug. I searched around the net and located a high res JEPG of the Klimek. I then took that copy and blew it up 265% in paint. I then took it to the local print shop and printed off three copies. One to cut up, One for the actually build and one to keep handy, never know when I may need it.
Does anybody have any pictures of the real boat or know where I can find some?
First I started out by cutting all the formers and keel out of the plans.
Using spray glue I positioned all the formers on 1/4 inch birch ply.
The keel was made from Poplar wood and is 3/8 inch thick.
After all the formers and keel were cut I started laying it all out adjusting the slots as I went along so that everything fit the way I think it should.
The keel was drilled for the stuffing box and the rudder post.
Then everything was tacked glued in place.
Two 1/4 square balsa sticks were used for the tops on the formers inside and out.
A top deck was cut but won't be attached until the hull is planked and the inside glassed.
All this took about 5 hours and $20 dollars for wood so far.
Deciding what material to plank the hull with and leaning towards 1/8x1/4 balsa.
That's all for now. I'll post as many pictures as I can along the way.
Almost forgot. At the scale I'm using it worked out to be 1/20 scale with a hull length of 32 inches.
Cheers, Wayne
Title change
ken
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If anybody has any suggestions or comments please post them. :-))
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No suggestions just keep up the good work, looking good :-))
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Thanks Mermod
I just got done ordering the wood for the hull. should be a couple of days to receive that then its planking time.
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I have been looking at different motors available here in the states and I'm thinking about this one using a 50mm 3 or 4 blade prop.
800 Direct Drive Motor
Top RPM: 5167
Runs on 12 Volts
3 Pole
Maximum amperage draw: 5.28amps
Will efectively propel a 36" deep vee boat with a 2" prop Can also turn props up to 3.5 " @ 2500 RPM
Motor mount included.
Overall Length: 4 1/4"
Can Length: 3"
Can Diameter: 2"
Drive Shaft Diameter: 1/4"
Drive Shaft Length: 1/2"
Any ideas from anyone?
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Does anybody have any pictures of the real boat or know where I can find some?
Is this the one ?
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Yes, thats the one. I don't seem to be able to locate any actual pictures of it. :((
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I Googled it and was overwhelmed. {-)
ken
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I must be looking in all the wrong places, I can't find any actual photos of the real boat. {:-{
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I believe the name is Klimek not klinek. Googling the former gives lots of hits. Give it a try :-))
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Guess I spelled it wrong.
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Still no photos of the full size boat.
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Only question, why did you not use ply for the keel? Would have thought far less chance of warping and yes, you are going to seal everything.
Regards Ian
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Can't find any of real tug, maybe she's been renamed..
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,20447.msg197602.html#msg197602
http://www.areanine.net/klimek.html
http://johntom.wordpress.com/2013/05/10/klimek-tug-boat-120th-scale-frame-kit-and-plans/
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1430890
edit
(http://freeshipplans.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/soviet-harbour-tug.png)
http://freeshipplans.com/categories/free-model-ship-plans/tugboat-plans/
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Only question, why did you not use ply for the keel? Would have thought far less chance of warping and yes, you are going to seal everything.
Regards Ian
I would have thought that solid wood would have less chance of warping and needed to drill a 4mm hole in it for the stuffing box. The ply can splinter and leave a ragged hole.
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Thank you Martin for the picture, that looks like the one. :embarrassed: :-))
Now I have a little something to go by as far as colors and layout.
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Martin,
Would you be able to edit the title of this build to
"Scratch Built "Klimek" Tugboat. I guess my fat fingers hit the N instead of the M. %%
Thanks a bunch.
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I have finally found a couple of photos of the Tug. :-)) :} Same as I'm building but with a different name.
There is also a bunch of other photos of a model going together.
here is the website if anybody is interested.
https://plus.google.com/photos/110036140950170708942/albums/5485477689804179041?banner=pwa&authkey=CPfogdzNxJ6JGw (https://plus.google.com/photos/110036140950170708942/albums/5485477689804179041?banner=pwa&authkey=CPfogdzNxJ6JGw)
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My wood order arrived today and the planking has commenced.
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planking continues.
I dislike Planking <*<
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It's looking good. Thanks for sharing.
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Wayne.......is this a parallax glitch/error?.......you know :o that is creating the waisted or fiddle profile......or should the planks be progressively tapered toward the stern plate?
Planking certainly is a learning curve for all of us.......Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=44196.0;attach=127247;image)
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Hello Derick
I'm not sure what your asking, or stating here.
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Wayne...I see the planking in this view as ) ( in profile looking on the stern of the hull
Cameras can sometimes distort images [a mechanism of the function of the lens geometry] ...or was asking if the planks should be tapered?
Do you have any photographs of the full size vessel planking geometry?
I am about to embark on a new planked hull that for scale vision I cannot "block in" [cheat] in any areas where the planking doesn't meet properly :embarrassed: .....Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=44196.0;attach=127247;image)
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I don't have pictures of the full size hull, only drawing and the plans.
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maybe this will help.
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This is what I'm working off of.
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Hi Wayne & Derek,
As you appear to be using balsa to plank with, I will offer the following based upon my experiances, also with balsa.
Ther timbers have their specific characteristics and are not as 'easy' to use as balsa.
What Derek is endeavouring to say I think, is when planking, full size boats, and our wee models, planking is widest at the centre frame and gets progressively narrower towards the bow and stern. The amount is usually marked on the frames, then transferred to the parallel plank.
Starting with the centre frame, or the frame at the widest and deepest point on the hull, the plank widths are marked as equal spaces between the keel and the gunwale. Then using this number of spacings each frame is marked into equal spacings. On the sketch I have used 8 planks, and as you can see the distance between each marking is less than those at the centre frame. With balsa we can then mark these widths along the plank, and trum so we end up with tapered planks, which can then be offered up and glued into place.
Sometimes we can get away with tapering only one side of the plank, (this because balsa can be very forgiving and allow the plank to bend in the wide direction, whereas other timbers will not).
I generally taper my balsa planks both sides of the plank, or as the plank dictates. You will soon find what works for your hull.
Using this method, you will not have to infill with tapered part planks to "fill the gaps", as you will soon find if you continue as you are doing.
Hope this is of some help
cheers
vnkiwi :-)
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Looks like its coming along well . I like the look of the ship , a " cute " tug .
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Thanks vnk.....I met with our Mayhem member Southsteyene2 [John] yesterday & he expounded on the very same method you have shown here :-))
The trap I had previously fallen into >>:-( when using paper plans was to use string to sit on or form the individual hull frame to calculate the actual profile length
I found the natural error of even 1 or 2 mm over say 200 mm in the frame profile length was enough to create unsightly gaps/distortions in the hull planking
To counter this %) ......with my new hull I plan to use a 120 year old plan distance reading tool [my grandfathers] ....[just a small set of geared wheels in a hand held case] & carefully trace each 1/2 frame....then read the distance & convert this to a straight line :} .....
I have trialled this & get repeatable length dimensions of say +/- 0.5 mm in 200 mm.....Derek
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I'm almost beginning to understand what you guys are talking about. I come from the plane side of model building so a lot of the terms and parts are a little confusing to me.
Yes I am using balsa to plank the Tug because its easy to work with. Afterwards the hull will be glassed inside and out.
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Thanks vnk.....I met with our Mayhem member Southsteyene2 [John] yesterday & he expounded on the very same method you have shown here :-))
The trap I had previously fallen into >>:-( when using paper plans was to use string to sit on or form the individual hull frame to calculate the actual profile length
I found the natural error of even 1 or 2 mm over say 200 mm in the frame profile length was enough to create unsightly gaps/distortions in the hull planking
To counter this %) ......with my new hull I plan to use a 120 year old plan distance reading tool [my grandfathers] ....[just a small set of geared wheels in a hand held case] & carefully trace each 1/2 frame....then read the distance & convert this to a straight line :} .....
I have trialled this & get repeatable length dimensions of say /- 0.5 mm in 200 mm.....Derek
Derek,
Digressing I have one of those from new, about 1976. Also Handy for use on maps when travelling O0 O0
How old is your Grandfather %) %) %)
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Hi Derek,
Haven't seen one of those for years.
Every drawing office had at least one, back before computers.
Most useful devices.
cheers
vnkiwi
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mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm ......RAAArtyGunner asks ...."How old is your Grandfather?"....... stretching the grey cells here %)
My Pa died when I was in 3rd year @ high school so that would have been 1963...I am sure he was 68 years old
So that would give his birth as 1895 ...he was the Shire Clerk in a little area known as Bulli.....just 20 km north of Wollongong
He was soooooooooooo good to his grand children O0 .........however his wife forbid <*< that he smoke tobacco...every Saturday afternoon we would walk over to South Bulli colliery paddock where the pit ponies ate & rested.... we would collect horse manure for his rose garden's........ Pa would always give me a puff of his Rolly :-)) ...then he would hide the tobacco under the house before Nanna saw us....... {-) ...
I would go to school on Mondays & brag that I had a puff of a smoke on the weekend........I am a now a non smoker ............
When I quoted 120 years old ....it was just a guess.......Derek
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Hi Wayne,
Have to agree, Balsa is always my choice when planking is called for. Medium density preferred, as it is 'hard' enough and still bends easy. 'Hard' is ok, but sometimes requires "heat" bending, either with steam or direct (much care needed).
Also watch for checks in the grain, and where it came from in the log, bearing in mind that Balsa has radials, but very little in the way of rings.
I use a "flexible gell super-glue", quite expensive, but brilliant stuff, then seal the wood with usually epoxy, but the planked hull in the previous photo was sealed with painted on Polyurethane wood glue to achieve the surface I wanted, but not recommended. Epoxy's the way to go.
cheers
vnkiwi :-))
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Hi Wayne,
Have to agree, Balsa is always my choice when planking is called for. Medium density preferred, as it is 'hard' enough and still bends easy. 'Hard' is ok, but sometimes requires "heat" bending, either with steam or direct (much care needed).
Also watch for checks in the grain, and where it came from in the log, bearing in mind that Balsa has radials, but very little in the way of rings.
I use a "flexible gell super-glue", quite expensive, but brilliant stuff, then seal the wood with usually epoxy, but the planked hull in the previous photo was sealed with painted on Polyurethane wood glue to achieve the surface I wanted, but not recommended. Epoxy's the way to go.
cheers
vnkiwi :-))
Yes sir, balsa is for me. Normally all I use is med CA to glue everything together. Sand and glass with 1.5 oz cloth, inside and out. Makes for a strong hull. For epoxy I use either z-poxy finishing resin or a thin exopy from a local composites store.
If I need to bend in a strange way I soak it in water or spray with ammonia and water.
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Wayne,
way to go. :-))
cheers
vnkiwi
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Finally got the Tug all planked, what a job!!
Here is my daughter putting filler material on the hull, filling the low spots. I use drywall spackle.
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And now its getting sanded off. She is working hard now.
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We went to the pond the other day to run our lobster boats and my daughters quit in the middle. Come to find out the motor quit. No saving it and have no idea why it quit. So I took it all apart and replaced it. While it was all apart she decided she didn't like the blue hull anymore. Ok dear what color would you like? Pink. PINK! So off with the blue and on with the pink.
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Ready for glass and resin.
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The outside of the hull has been glassed along with most of the inside.
I will let it sit and dry for several days then glass just the keel. Once that's finished I'll put a flow coat of resin on which will fill in the cloth a little better and then its sanding time again.
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Not much to show right now. The entire hull has been glassed and sanded. Then a flow coat was brushed on and sanded and another flow coat was put on. Hopefully when this flow coat is sanded it will be smooth enough to prime.
Stay Tuned.
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Looking good there wayne . Nice to see the young uns helping out . My eldest daughter likes to help me with my models in the cellar too .
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Always nice to have her around. She normally hates going to my shop, claims its to dusty. But when it comes to boats she is always ready to help out.
And she is a pretty good helmsmen on her lobster boat. :-))
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Lots and Lots of sanding on the hull this weekend but all the hard work is starting to pay off.
Finally in primer.
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Cut out and traced all the cabin parts. I'll cut those out in a few days then start building the cabin.
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So now I'm thinking about the rudder. From my 30 odd years of building RC scale aircraft I like to have access to everything. I dislike more than anything having a part that is not serviceable. I started looking at ways to have the rudder removable. besides I don't like having to sand and paint around it. This is the first draft. I'll modify it as the build progresses. After making this up I already had another idea that will look a little better.
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Tonight I ordered the rest of the wood I need along with the motor, stuffing box, coupler, and prop. A couple of days to receive that and I can move on.
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Any suggestions for the half round rub rail that goes around the hull?
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My wood order came in a day or two ago so I traced out the wheelhouse parts and cut them.
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Nice present in the mail today. Motor, stuffing box, coupler, prop and a anchor.
Once the wheelhouse was sanded I fit that to the deck.
My next thought was once the deck is attached the wheelhouse will be glued on. My plan right now is to have the engine room covers removable held on with earth magnets. This will give me access to the battery, ESC and receiver.
Like all good ideas, that may change as the build progresses.
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There are another couple of Klimek's over in the Working vessels section "re Klimek tug build, dated Oct 08 2012. I put the Freeship plans into the thread. Mine is planked with steamed Pine strips. I didn't have the correct colour scheme and used a pen for the doors etc. Stand off scale!! Works well and looks the part, that's the main thing.
Yours is looking really good.
Kevin
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For the rubbing rail on my latest model I used wooden dowel, I stuck it to the workbench with double sided tape and then planed it to the size I wanted.
Brian
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Finished up the tug.
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couple more.
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more
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more
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Very nice indeed.
Well done. :-))
Ken
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Thanks Kenny