Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Tugs and Towing => Topic started by: para_handy on August 09, 2013, 11:14:25 am
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I am just about to start a new build, I bought a GRP hull on eBay see pics
the hull is 38" and is 1/32 scale can someone tell me what type and size of propeller
i should use.
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It would look like the choice has been made for you!
A four blade brass kort prop that will fit inside the nozzle
already fitted.
Ned
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if i was using the Kort does the propeller need to be as large as possible the diameter of the Kort is 3"
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If you contact Prop Shop and give them the Kort internal
diameter, hull size and motor, they will advise and supply.
Ned
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This is the first build that i will keep a log I have been working on the wheelhouse
cutting the windows out first a drilled a series of holes then i used small files and
the corners where rounded using a dremel with a small radius sanding drum.
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i don't know what i am doing wrong when posting as sometimes i get no reaction from the post button?
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I am not shure which tug this is modelled on only thing i know is it was a liverpool tug open to
suggestion's please. I looked at this tug but i dont know enough as i am new to the tug scene
(see pics)
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I think this may be the
Brocklehust Brocklebank but I think the Kort nozzle is wrong i think it should have a rudder what type or design i don't
know any one out there have a pic of the right rudder for the job.
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Can't help you identify the hull but thanks for sharing your work so far and I look forward to seeing more.
Alex
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I am about to put the wooden strip round the bullworks just below deck level, can you advise what type of glue to use or would it have to be something different so there is no reaction with glass-fibre.
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I use aradite the long setting one
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does anybody have the dimensions of the brocklhurst
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due to a slip of the old grey matter i put Brocklhurst and it should be Brocklebank.
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I have finished the support for the deck and have fitted the prop shaft and the motor, I have fitted a Mtronik 550 motor but not knowing i think i should of have fitted a 3:1 gearbox or perhaps 5:1 gearbox maybe some of you shipmates can advise.
I will post pic's later today.
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here is the pics
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Looking good there
Might I suggest a support under the forward end of the propshaft.
Ned
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some photos:
http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/search.php?search_title=BROCKLEBANK (http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/search.php?search_title=BROCKLEBANK)
the tug is now owned my Liverpool maritime Museum, it might be worth dropping them a line to ask about further information.
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Whilst you've got easy access to the hull innards, sand down and smooth of the adhesive/filler while you can. You may also want to think about painting or sealing the GRP too.
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Martin,
I;m about to start on a GRP hull myself but I was only going to clean it out a bit and maybe a coat of paint. How, and why, should I seal it on the inside?
Glyn
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Para_Handy
I bought the a kit of a Liverpool tug off ebay that looks exactly like yours and came to the same conclusion as you that it was the Brocklebank. Because it was the closest picture to the kit I could find. It had been fitted with a motor and kort nozzle but no prop. I also found out if it is to be the Brocklebank I need to remove everything and start again. I will be very interested in your build as it is my firrst atempt at building a kit.
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I have started to spray inside of hull, I have used a dark color Humbrol nut brown.
(pics to follow)
thanks Martin for the advice
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I have taken your advice about fitting a 900 motor with 3000rpm max
I opted for a 75 mm 3 blade propeller and this is also fitted.
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I was wondering as i said i have purchased the 900 motor i see there is know flat on the spindle would you recommend grinding a flat on the spindle or would you leave it be.
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I always grind a flat if there's none there.
Don't go too deep as it's not necessary. ok2
Ken
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hi there i painted the inside of the hull nut brown did not like repainted white looks better i have started doing the bulwark's i have given them a light skim of car body filler to get them smooth.
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Just update, we have fitted the 900 motor and i new motor mount and had send for another coupling, the steering gear is in and working fine, I was thinking i will need a hatch so we can get at the steering, have also been working on the wheelhouse windows and i will start to make the insides of the wheel house i.e the wheel and other ancillaries.
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gday ,
i think you need a g/box for that sized tug and prop , 75 mm ??
even w the 900 motor , i think you need 3:1, but see how you go , were you told the 900 will turn the 75 prop ??
if so , try it , a 545 would almost drive it w 5:1 ratio , but you loose prop revs =less drive
i tend to use a g/box on most of my high load/tug drives , but thats just me
regards and good luck bill s
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why do you think i need a 3:1 gearbox with the 900 motor or i.e. 5:1 gearbox??
and where can you get these type of gearbox to fit the 900 motor
I have to tell you i have never built a tug or used a 900 motor or a gearbox, as for the prop i had ordered the propeller before i started the project, i did get pm advising to use a 70mm 4 blade, but as i said i had already purchased 2 75mm propeller's as i i bought two tug hulls.
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gday para h,
i think you need a g/box , due to the drag+size of your hull+load caused by your prop , 75 mm ??
if you have being advised by some-one else who sold you the motor , or has used that motor to drive your prop , ignore me , because i should be wroung .
BUT my experience w motors out here in OZ, and i do experiment w a lot of different motors , tells me that there is a big increase in load w a large prop , motors dont like to be held back , and if they can`t spin up to speed , they burn out . a heater fan motor is only happy w approx. a 50/60 mm prop , direct drive , but w 3:1 g/box , will drive 100mm+ prop .
graupner 900 motor w approx. 2:1 gears , drives only a 65 mm prop in they ZED drive unit , thats w gears+65 mm prop , there are some motors out there ,that only rev slowly , and will turn big props direct , but not many
i think , just by looking at your motor , but without all the facts , motor specs , i would be fitting a t/belt home made g/box+3:1/4:1 ratio
we are very limited on oZ for motors , but im drawing up plans for a 1100mm+ tug , narrow beam ,w 90/100mm prop , and it will be driven by 700 jaycar motor via 4:1 g/box , and it should chew stumps all day !!another mob uses brushless motors , w 2.5:1 reduction , to 90 mm props , notice g/box !!
i hope i havent sound big headed,all confused you more , but thats my humble opinion, if you want more info , just ask -bill s
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The 900 thar Para_Handy is using revs at 3000RPM at 12V.
The Graupner revs more than twice that.
Ned
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The 900 that I am using revs at 3000RPM at 12V.
Is there someone who has used this 900 motor at 3000rpm at 12v and could you please say what size of prop you used and if it was 3 blade or four and what was the outcome in the water.
i have used the 900 motor and 3 blade 75mm propeller.
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gday para h,
i see on another post that the 900 w 3000rpm will drive 70 mm props fine , no g/box , so you should be fine w 75mm prop .
this is 1 of those rare slow reving motors w heaps of torque , we cant get them out here easily .
with what motors we can get out here in australia , we generally have to use a home made g/box , and tooth belts are nice and quiet , which allows the motors to rev , and build torque , but we balence the prop revs to achieve max. power from prop , too big a reduction , w small prop , just doesnt work
but its still a "suck it and see" method
545 w 5:1 g/box will drive a biggish prop ,75mm+
but w a heavy tug , its better w a700+motor and 3/4:1 reduction
i would like to know more about these 900 motors , what breed +who sells them ??i would like to try 2 in a tug
good luck w the build , its looking good .
regards bill s
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hi Big bill these motors have the following spec.
900 Torque Motor
Ref: CEM900T
900 High Torque motor from Caldercraft Electric Motors (CEM).
Nominal Voltage: 12V
Operating Range: 6-24V
RPM at Nominal Voltage: 3000
No Load Current: 0.4A
Current at Nominal Voltage: 5.0A
Stall Current: 20.3A
1/4in plain output shaft
that's all it says about them and the price is £22 £5.23 vat= £27:53
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gday para h,
thanks for the info , i like the LOW current draw , of less than 1 A , thats unheard of in simple can motors -only other motor who comes close is the 555, on 50 mm direct drive prop (60 mm , if you smile !!) draws only about 1A, on load !! or a tad more , but it only revs to 5000 rpm approx. and has to be matched to the model , but i like it in older work boats , as i can cruise all day .
i will have to get some of those 900 motors and try them , i normally go for a revier motor , and run it through a g/box to brass prop , not much choice out here .the only other motor w similar specs is thew T motors of another UK supplier , similar low revs and low consumption of Amps .
those type of low current ,high torque motors are hard to find
i have 2 steam tugs to do in the next 2-5 yrs ,and i should try the 900 in those , 90/100mm prop , 4 bladed brass
good luck w the build , should be a nice tug , keep the photos coming
regards and thanks bill s
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hi there i have not forgot to post more of the build, I have to get another camers as i damaged it in-fact it was in my workshop and i knocked it of the bench
and the rest is history.
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can someone advise me of a good source for paints for the tug
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The general consensus seems to be Rattle cans from a car shop.
ps ..... I do like the red oxide as an undercoat. It covers well and can be lightly sanded.
ken
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I have fitted these 900 motors in my MMM eurogirl have 40mm 4 blade props fitted on 12v got a bollard pull of 7lbs and happily runs all day .have tested these on 24v with same set up and got 10lbs of thrust on bollard pull .
On 24v set up have got around 3hrs tug towing before batterys start to loose power .
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Hi
Have you decided on the scale for your deck fittings like winches
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Sounds like you are getting on,But where are the pictures ;) :-))
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gday para , nothing wrong w rattle cans , but , make certain they are enamel paint , it is available in acrylics too , water based ,if you put enamel on acrylic ,it will crazy crack , and look awful
if you start the model paint w enamel , you have to finish w enamel , or vise versa w acrylics .
whilst humbrol is dear to paint a large model ,its real good paint ,i have a yacht ,25+ yrs old ,and the humbrol paint is still good ,and show condition , allowing for its age .
if you use auto paint , thats OK ,as it works out cheaper , i spray all my models in primmer from a rattle can , paint what i can w rattle cans in base colours , then trim Finnish w humbrol in colours i cant get from spray cans .
the more you do it , the better you get at it
bill
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Read all about it in the article by myself in the painting section.
Dave
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yes i am using 1/32 scale parts
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Does anybody know where i can buy a decal of a Engine Order Telegraph as i have had no luck on the net
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Have you thought about making one. Vinyl sheet for printers is available here http://www.modellettering.com/showProducts.asp?categorycode=011 (http://www.modellettering.com/showProducts.asp?categorycode=011)
and possibly elsewhere.
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i have decal paper I will have a Go and make my own
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Isthis of any use
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para_handy
Taken at the weekend
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and these
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Hi there Skimmer these pics are a great help thanks for posting them
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Hi there mates just a wee note to say i have not abandoned the build I have been really ill and can't suffer going out to my workshop
It is to cold and i suffer from phsoriatic arthritis and i am therefore not too handy with my hands I will resume build as soon as the weather
improve's
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Watching your build with interest and I too have hand issues sometimes....hope you are 'up and running' soon !
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Get well soon Cap'n. I got my tug hull through the post today and was comparing it with your hull and noticed not a great amount of stern overhang so am thinking of ways to modify it. I look forward to seeing more progress when your arthritis slackens.
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Hi there I am back on the tug once more hands still not 100% but what can you do, I have invested some money on a 3D Printer man it is handy for the small bits that I cant do with my hands, I( have also started to paint the hull I will post pics as soon as paint is dry and i can remove the tape.
P.S wife has given me a lovely present she has had the workshop fitted with a radiator and got it plumbed into the central heating,
is this lovely??? or is it I have been under her feet to much now go to your workshop and give us all peace.????
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Well, it is a kind gift given the expense of the work but I expect it might be an incentive to encourage you to keep the house fume and dust free.
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Hi para-handy!
I hope your hands are on the mend and you can enjoy your build pain free....
Good job on your tug! I have a similar build of the Sea Trojan and I am at the point of putting a deck onto it...
Can I ask.... Is that basa you have used as deck supports? and, Can you give me any tips on getting it to sit square in the FG hull???
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Yes it is balsa that i used and is really sturdy enough.
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some pics of the hull painted
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Quite crisp colour demarkation you have there Mr Handy, She is coming along fine:O)
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It certainly is. Well done. Now.... that wall behind. {-)
ken
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Yes, we are thinking a razzle dazzle scheme with matching curtains and dado rail? Very Lewellyn-Bowen:O)
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I have started to put in the windows in the wheelhouse what glue would you recommend ??????
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R/C Modellers Canopy Glue
http://www.deluxematerials.com/aerorcmodellers.html
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Hi all, this is a picture of some of the parts for the tug made on a 3D printer
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some pictures of progress up to date.
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Hi! just messing about with a Seaport Dickie tug at the moment ( new to the hobby ) and i saw your build. Very nice indeed, and the 3d printed parts really do look good. Have you noticed that your build is so good that looking at your tug from the stern it seems to be happy :-) ! ( smiling face ). Regards, Dave.
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when you do the bulwarks what is the best way to do the stanchions in styrene or wood?? what is the best.
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I always do mine in styrene as they won't rot in the water. They are usually fixed with super glue. :-))
Cheers
Ken
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thanks ken I will use styrene and superglue i was going to perhaps print them in the 3D printer ???
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2 seconds with a Stanley knife and you're done. :} I'm just about to do mine at this time as well.
I always get them to fit tight under the hand rail, around the edge of the hull, snugly, as it helps hold them firmer.
cheers
ken
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Hi all can someone please advise what the navigation lights are on the tug boat please.
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The third photo of Brocklebank at the start of this log shows the nav lights below the aft side windows of the wheelhouse, the lights as usual are set in a open sided box with black interior. ;)
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Is this what you are after
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Hi all i think i have asked for the wrong advise, what i want to know is other than the navigation lights what lights are display on the forward mast and colour they are please.
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Not sure of the colours but this is the mast. I am sure there is someone on mayhem who could tell you.
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the lamp half way up is a single the arrow looks as if it is coming from the note.
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Hi all i think i have asked for the wrong advise, what i want to know is other than the navigation lights what lights are display on the forward mast and colour they are please.
I thought it was a strange question given the previous photos,
For a towing vessel the mast lights Can be two, three, or four, all white the number depends on whether the vessel is under or over 50 metres and whether the tow is under or over 200 metres , there is also two lights visible from aft a white and yellow or both again depending on length of tug and tow. %% %%
Joe.
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Hope this helps,
Chris
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thanks CJ1, that is exactly what i was looking for and the picture is perfect.
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Hi can you tell me the name of the hull maker it looks great its what ive looking for
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Hi, did you finish this build yet?
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Hi all para_handy here i have not posted for more than 2 years i have been stopped modelling had lots of family problems but now back modelling again and i ill be posting more pictures of the "Brocklebank" as i do the work i hope to finish within 3 months will be back very soon with lots of pics and ideas