Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Bait Boats => Topic started by: eddieneil22 on September 10, 2013, 07:33:51 pm
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HELLO,
I AM BUILDING A BAIT BOAT,I HAVE A 35 INCH LONG FIBREGLASS HULL 10 INCHES WIDE,
AND I DONT HAVE MUCH IDEA ON HOW TO PUT THE INNER WORKINGS TOGETHER,I HAVE READ
A LOT OF BLOGS ON HOW TO DO THIS YET MY BRAIN CANT BE SURE IF I HAVE IT CORRECT
IF I PUT A LIST OF THE WORKINGS I THINK I NEED CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME IF I AM ON THE
RIGHT TRACK.
I WANT TO USE
PLANET T5 2.4GHZ COMbO SET 5 CHANNEL FOR MY OPERATING SYSTEM
MOTORS--2X MTRONIKS VIPER MARINE PLUS 2X MTRONIKS MIXER WATERPROOF(w-tail) to work the two motors at the same time
SERVO SETUP TO TIP MY BAIT BOXES
2X FUTABA S148 STANDARD SERVOS
2X MTRONIKS MIXER WATERPROOF(W-TAIL) TO WORK THE SERVOS AT THE SAME TIME
would this setup go together or am i on the wrong track,thanks to anyone who can help
eddie
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hello i am new to mayhem and new to rc building.
i have just brought a 35 inch long 10 inch wide 6 inch deep fibreglass boat and i need help in kitting her out.
i have read a few things on how to run a boat but i may have the working order wrong in my head,any help would be great.
my idea for the workings of my boat are as following.
operating system.
planet t5 2.4ghz combo set 5 channel.
motors. 2x mtroniks viper marine 20.
2x mtroniks mixer waterproof w-tail, to work the motors at the same time, (if possible)
servo setup. 2x futaba s148 standard servos
2x mtroniks mixer waterproof w tail,to work the two servos at the same time (if possible)
will this setup work if not could somebody show me the right way please
neil
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First welcome to the mad house you dont have to but it helps %% .
some pics would help with advising you on set up.
what type of craft is it ?
To run your motors together you just require a servo Y lead or just use a higher amp speed controller that will run both motors.
a single servo is more than adequate for the rudders
Ron
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Whilst you will get good advice here on the Forum ( although it will doubtless include conflicting ideas) why not join the Moorhen Model Boat Club that meets in Harlow? There you can get face to face advice and help - and somewhere to sail your model when its finished!
http://mmbc.webplus.net/ (http://mmbc.webplus.net/)
Barrie
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A good start. You should be able to get up and running with this.
By the way..... CAPITOL letters are regarded as shouting on the Web so are not used.
regards
ken
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sorry about the capital letters i havent been on a forum befor wont do it again,
what do you think of my running gear e.t.c i havent a clue if this will work,i will put a befor picture of my boat on for you to see,once i work out how to do this.
neil
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thank you ron,thats the first piece of my education on this site,thank you and yes barriew i will take a look at the moorhen club thank you,i got into trying to build my own boat because i was given a new kidney from my brother in 2011,i needed a hobby,thanks everyone
neil
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motors. 2x mtroniks viper marine 20.
2x mtroniks mixer waterproof w-tail, to work the motors at the same time, (if possible)
servo setup. 2x futaba s148 standard servos
2x mtroniks mixer waterproof w tail,to work the two servos at the same time (if possible)
Viper marine 20 is an ESC, for controlling a motor (or a few motors, if they are not too large). It would help to know the type of motor, and the type of boat/level of performance expected.
A mixer is a device that goes between the receiver and the ESCs to use rudder channel information to influence the signals going to the motor ESCs. Just one per model usually.
Just one standard servo is enough to work a pair of rudders with a mechanical linkage. If a mechanical linkage is not possible, two servos can work in unison via a Y lead. It is rare for the two rudders to need to be operated independently.
If you have a club nearby, that is probably the best place to go, as Barriew says.
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thank you malcolm,
i have included some pictures of my boat,i dont know what kind she is i brought her off e bay £20.
neil
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2nd picture
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3rd picture
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MFA Spearfish?
As others have stated, there will be various ways of doing and still getting what you want!
1. What sort of performance are you expecting?
Fastest boat on the lake, hellfire machine,
Fast but reasonable run times, eg 15 minutes,
Reasonable speed but good run times, eg. 20-30 minutes,
Speed not important but I want good manoeuvrability.
2. How much are you willing to spend?
3. How deep are your pockets? ok2
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picture 1 of my boat kenny
neil
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Topics merged.
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hello,
i just want my boat to get from a to b not fast
running time-2 hours
i want her to turn on the spot
money-i will buy wat i need when i have the money
my pockets are as deep as my hands can get
as much as i can work out would 2 540 motors do the job
neil
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A mixer + 2 of ESCs will allow it to spin on the spot. Using a 4 channel set and tank steering with the two sticks you get the same effect without the mixer. Some higher end radios do the mixing at the transmitter.
For driving a bait boat on a lake, 545s (slower running, more torque, lower current drain) might be a better bet. On moving water, you need a lot more performance if you want to get the boat back without a long walk downstream.
Getting a long run time on one set of batteries can be a problem, but a lot depends on the duty cycle. If it involves a cruise out laden and a quiet cruise back then a rest switched off, 2 hours is probably no problem since there should be plenty of options regarding the weight of battery that can be carried combined with the payload.
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thank you again malcolm,
can you suggest, a good 545 motor,plus what size batteries would you suggest,would their be any chance of a drawing with names of parts needed to run from a planet t5 5 channel,of two servos to tip box two running motors to power my boat
would be very happy neil
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i did try to use a tank motor but i conected a servo to the wires that used to work the gun and the whole lot packed up
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A good set of drawings here - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6169.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6169.0.html) - a 545 is a generic motor, 54mm long and having 5 poles.
The ESCs for the motors just plug into the channels that correspond to the sticks you intend to use for each motor. The hopper control (why 2 servos?) plugs into the channel corresponding to the stick you want to use.
For the size of batteries, only you can know. Factors are knowing what weight the boat can carry without being in danger of sinking and how much bait you intend to carry plus the weight of everything else. Once you know what your weight limits are, you can start considering batteries. Lead acid are relatively easy to look after, but are heavy for capacity. NiMh are less heavy for the same outside size, have better capacity and are also easy to look after. More modern stuff involving lithium packs more energy into less space and weight, but is picky about its treatment.
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thank you again malcolm,
the drawing was very helpfull,it will take me a while to fully understand it. just found out what a esc with bec is.
the idea of the two servos is as picture.
neil
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hello malcolm,
can i ask on the drawing you gave me,what amp inline fuse should i use and i cant seem to find a 4.8 volt ni-cd 4 cell battery any where i have found 4.8 volt batteries,will they all do the same job.
neil
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Hullo Neil....I have no knowledge of 'bait boats' :} ....but find your image below interesting
For increased rigidity of the tipping motion.....you could consider
1. Reversing the orientation of each servo [flip 180 degrees] so the actual servo drive axis is more inline or inboard of the tip box mass centre
2. Install a second parallel plastic tipping arm to the other side of each box
3. This may require bent arms {-)
Derek
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thank you derek,when you say install a second tipping arm,do yo mean a non working motor arm,just a arm that is operated by the movement of the first servo.
neil
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New on the market for replacing the hopper servos are some rather nice small winches with enclosed drums. I saw these on the stand of component-shop. Using their wind-through capability they would be very capable of winding the hopper down and back up again, with very accurate adjustment to all points between. Drum diameter is about 1", and they come with various options regarding number of turns, so quite a versatile bit of kit. It might need a heavy duty servo to handle the hopper as shown, and the costs for the drum winch are very comparable.
When the drawings were done, NiCad batteries were the going thing. They have almost entirely been replaced by NiMH batteries, and the packs can be regarded as interchangeable.
The fuse value depends entirely on the actual maximum load. In a multi-esc setup, there should be one fuse per esc, and it should be less than the esc max, but more than the motor pulls under load. Without a meter, the easy way is to have a pack of assorted fuses and work up until you get one that doesn't blow, and use that value. With 545s, probably 10A each. Lots of threads about fusing, and loads of information on Action Electronic's website.
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thank you again malcolm,
the drawing you give me was if i were to use a rudder,is there a drawing without useing a rudder,but to have both motors running at the same time and use the servo as my tipping motor.
thanks again malcolm this site is so helpfull.
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Neil.......here is a mud map of my thoughts :D
1. servo is more centralised with the tipping box
2. a set of parallel tipping arms are used
Essentially just minor revisions to your design.........Derek
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very intresting derek,thats the way iam going to go thank you i was so set in my mind on my idea that it stops you thinking about other ways of doing things,thank you,
neil
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Or, if you are just "dumping" the bait out of the hopper, they could be spring loaded and a short arm on the servo arm just latches it down.
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hello martin,
yes thats another idea,my main problem at the moment is to get the boat running,getting a list of the right parts,i dont want to spend money on the wrong items.
neil
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thank you again malcolm,
the drawing you give me was if i were to use a rudder,is there a drawing without useing a rudder,but to have both motors running at the same time and use the servo as my tipping motor.
thanks again malcolm this site is so helpfull.
If you run 2 motors independently or using a mixer, just ignore the rudder servo.
4 channel 2.4GHz sets are cheaper these days than 2 channels sets were only a very few years ago, so it makes sense to go that way. This does mean that you have a "spare" channel or two for jobs other than driving and steering. Using a servo on one of those channels is just a matter of plugging it in. The mechanical arrangements are another story.
On the end of both links, there are several drawings, they just need looking for.
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thank you malcolm,
i will be useing your drawing ,you have been very helpfull,thank you
i started to do a bit of building work today,long way to go.
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How much weight in each hopper Neil?
The spear hull was designed from a fairly
fast cruiser
That sort of weight on the stern might
not be a good idea.
Ned
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If this is purely a "A" to "B" then back to base why not just use one motor and one propeller (save on £s).
Also have the bait Hopper fixed at a tilt with a door that operates either from a separate servo or use the spare movement of the rudder servo using the "trim" lever on your Transmitter.
Regards.
Len.
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hello ned,
i have had 2 kilos in the back hopper,and i needed 1 kilo in the front of lead cut to shape,i have got half cut plumbing pipe to go on the sides and back she floated quite level,i havent got the inner workings yet,that should even her out
neil
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hello big ada,
i really want to go with the two motor steering,as you may have read,i know very little about the inner workings,but with the help of people on this site iam learning a lot,good site,i was thinking of the open back hopper but that would have made the back of the boat look uneven.
neil nice to meet you
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it will be more stream line when i have finished
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hello i just brought a cheap futaba challenger transmitter and receiver 5 channel and servo and charger pack,will it be alright for a beginner like me,i should have asked you all first,but it just came along
neil
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What is the Frequency ?
I think that it will be 35Mhz if it is then it is for AIR use only in the UK
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hello catengineman,
it is 35mhz,will it not work on surface land then i dont know a lot ,i picked it up for 15 pound,so i havent lost a lot if its wrong.
neil
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i just read that it could bring planes down,but because i will be useing it in the middle of nowhere fishing,will it be ok,or is it against uk law.
neil
i just read the range is quite far with 35mhz,
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It is illegal to use for boats or cars.
You could always try for a swop on here.
Somebody may want it.
Ned
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dear netleyned,
i will look to see if anyone will swap for a transmitter that will suit my boat i will pay or the swap is greater,because i am new to rc its hard to look up some facts untill the problem arises.
thank you for your advice neil
it says its fm does that make a diffrence or is it the same
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FM and AM are mutually incompatible. AM is simpler and cheaper to make, but more prone to interference.
For surface use, 27MHz, 40MHz and 2.4GHz are legal and readily available. 35MHz is a big no-no.
If you had chucked another £15 in the hat, you could have got a brand new, virtually interference proof, legal 2.4GHz outfit.
2kilos is a lot of weight to put on top of a boat, there might be some stability problems, especially if there is a chance of sidewinds and/or following waves, unless a lot of attention is paid to ballasting low in the hull to increase stability.
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thank you malcolm,i am learning the wrong way,will have to sell the set nd get the plant t5 i really wanted,
neil
i think at the moment the only modeling i will be good at is socks
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Before you venture into too far on your build have you looked at the other bait boats.
As mentioned you seem to have a very large payload to contend with and when that is "dumped" the balancing ballast will then make that boat deep at the other end to where your load was. (unless it is central to the vessel.
Als the larger the vessel the greater the windage and current can have on it so that then needs larger motor(s) and so larger (higher capasity batteries)
Have you though about small often deployment of bait,
twofold in my suggestion.
1, smaller craft to build carry and handle
2, more fun as you get to "play" with it more often.
I'm not saying fishing isn't fun but if you dump 10 kg in a spot then return the craft to shore "thats it"
my idea would be to dump bait at point A - return for second load, cast line to point A - ready boat to point B return boat and cast second rig to point B
hey presto double the chance of catching fish and double the enjoyment of joining the RC model brigade
WIN WIN O0
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hello,
i did think of a smaller boat,but when iam in france,you want the bait out there with hookbait,and lead in the back of the boat,i can get round the weight issue,ive a long way to go on the build,if it calls for larger motors,thats what i will do,the boat is so buoyant ,even without the plumbing pipes on the sides and back,and with 2 large batteries and 2 kilo of bait,i dont have a worry about that,my only worry will be getting her going,wires, parts e.t.c
neil
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If you are going to use your boat in France then be aware that the French 2.4GHz rules
are slightly different.
They have a10mW output power limit on part of the of the band.
My Spektrum DX6i has a programmable setting for use in France
but I suspect a basic set like the T5 will not.
Gazou who is French and a member on here could possibly
recommend a cheap set for use in France.
Ned
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thanks netleyned,
i will be selling the set i have and buy the t5.
neil
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Neil,
The T5 may not be legal in France.
Some one on here might know.
Ned
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thanks ned,
i will ask the question.
neil
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still building,1 kilo of bait in the back and 1 1/4 kilo in the front ,she floats really well ,overall weight 4 kilos just under.
neil
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received my new planet t5 combo transmitter and receiver today from cornwall model boats,is there any dos or dont s i need to know about,befor i get started.
neil
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Don't drop it in the water. %)
Seriously, you should have no trouble. Just bind the receiver to the transmitter and away you go. Practice on the bench first so that you become familiar with it. It's a great invention and I use mine all the time
ken
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thanks ken .
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No probs . Just my bit of fun.
I've had a thought (yes, dangerous I now) On channel 5, the switch at the top edge, you have a choice of slow or fast servo action. This might be useful to you to control the dumping hopper. I use mine on the Gry maritha to slowly open and close the hatches. Look magical. :}
Ken
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hello kenny,i thought the same thing when i read it,answers my question i asked,i just wanted to know if you can use all makes of motors etc,
neil
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Motors shouldnt be a problem at all
Dave
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thank you dave,servos,mixers,etc ok as well.
neil
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yeah NO problem at all Action/ Mtronics/ electronise/Hobby king and others ALL work with this set up
Dave
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thank you dave.
neil
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so dave this setup will work well for me
neil
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That will work fine.
Personally, I wouldn't bother with the ESC-Motor fuses. The ESC should have its own safety built in, the only time I would use a fuse there is if I had more than one motor off one ESC, then it would be one fuse per motor.
The only ESCs that would not work would be those without a BEC, like the Action ones, which would need the red RX lead left intact to allow the control part of the board to work.
Important tip is to make really good and sure that the heavy black wires really do connect solidly to both ESCs. Strange things happen else.
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Yes and No really......you defo need a motor mixer in the set up and Both the cables form the speed controllers would then go into the mixer THEN a single cable to the reciever....both the rudder servos would also get connected into mixer and a single would come out.all your other functions can then be used on the reciever
Dave
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thank you dave i will send you a picture of my setup befor fixing them together,be a little while,i had a kidney transplant not working have to save up for the parts.
thanks for your help
neil
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tomorrow i have the money to buy two new motors,i have been looking at mabuchi 555,are these any good,they are 10 pound each,for a bit more money can i get some better,
neil
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Those will do.the job in hte boat
....Having re read your thread I HONESTLY do not know why on earth you would want ot take Half a kilo of bait out let alone a kilo out on a bait boat France or wherever.Having ifshed extensivly in France the maximum amount of bait per drop would be as follows.
1 scoop of (an empty med sized tin of corn) of particles
1 half tin of chopped and 1/4ered boilies
THAT IS ALL YOU NEED NO MORE NO LESS
The days of large beds of Baits in ANY country has LONG gone,the fish have seen it been there etc.Having made hte same mistake years ago of a large bed of bait and wondered all week why 2 rods wernt going off and my scratching rod was catching I sat in the rowing boat over the large bed and obsereved...time and time agaion fish shyed off and wouldnt go near the bait.I must admit last time I fished in France I only used Pva bags in the Bait boat...and Caught consistently all week...................
Lets put it another way....................If you were presented with 2 plates of food 1 a normal plate size the other was 2feet x 2 feet and told to eat it .....I know which one you would go straight for and it certaintly wouldnt be hte 2x2 one.
Dont believe what I say ask anyof the top anglers who go out to fish the lakes out htere SMALL is the way to bag up
Dave
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hello dave
thanks for the motor thing,as for france and weight of bait,i wont be going to france anymore,weight of bait,i just said it could carry a certain amount doesnt mean thats what will be used.
neil
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my setup hope its ok any advice welcome
neil
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Are you using any rudders on the boat
Dave
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no dave,i hope to steer with the two motors.
neil
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Ok then diagram is ok ....but i think you will find it a right sod to steer in a st line try it if you caant get on with it then you will have to fix a pair of rudders ........fit some weed guards to props.....cut uo a large plastic feeder should do the trick
Dave
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How is the receiver to be powered? There is no mention of a separate battery for the receiver and presumably the servo for tipping the hopper.
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thank you dave,
malcolm i thought the power for the receiver came from the one of the esc,is that wrong.if i am wrong i will fit the 4.8 battery,the tipper is worked on channel 5 of my transmitter on a switch.
neil
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The RX power comes down the red lead that is left connected. The tipper servo gets its power from the lead that plugs into the receiver, along with the instructions telling it what to do. Thus it gets its power from whatever the receiver uses.
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malcolm
am i right in saying the power for the rx does come from the esc with the red lead left intact,so i wont need a 4.8 power supply,
neil
i think i might need a fire extinguisher
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That is CORRECT
Dave
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malcolm
am i right in saying the power for the rx does come from the esc with the red lead left intact,so i wont need a 4.8 power supply,
neil
i think i might need a fire extinguisher
Leave just the one red connected from ESC-RX. The servo, whichever slot it plugs into, needs all 3 intact.
The ESC BECs are there basically to power the control chip in that ESC. It is a bonus that the RX and usually whatever servos need the same voltage, and the ESC used can usually supply enough power. But only one BEC, they don't always play nice together. Best way to disconnect is to winkle the red connector out of its housing and tape it back out of harms way with insulating tape. That way it can be re-used easily.
The only times that a fire extinguisher is needed are if a red wire connects where a black should go, and if a heavy black going between battery -ve and an ESC is disconnected.
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Are you dumping both hoppers from the toggle switch
or using a stick for the other?
Ned
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thanks malcolm.
hello ned,iam only using the one hopper,and as a can work it out is that channel 5 on my planet t5 can work the hopper at a slow or normal rate iam hoping
neil
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hello all,
i got my hopper working ,thing is at the end of the servos travel,i.e when hopper is at full tilt the servo motor sounds a if its still going,untill i touch the hopper,thats ok on the work bench,but 50 feet out would be a different story,is it i havent got enough length in my servo arm extension.
neil
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Try having the hopper on the point of balance or near it then the servo will just have to nudge it to dump its load.
Len.
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hello len,
ive got well enough tilt,its when the servo motor comes to the end of its travel,it makes a noise still,untill i just touch it a bit,then motor stops,
neil
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But has it allready tipped the bait...have you tried it with bait......if it has tipped the bait then you might well have to remake the are to stop this happening ..........A PIC would help us help YOU
Dave
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Sounds like a delicate balancing operation.
May I suggest the you temporarily fit the servo control to another position (away from channel 5) and gently control it with the lever. That way, you could determine whether the arm is pushing too far or nor enough.
Channel 5 on the transmitter just runs, either slow or fast, from one end to the other so analysis would be difficult for you.
Cheers
ken
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these pictures are very early dry fix,picture 1 is servo at full tilt,picture 2 is the same.
the arms are not getting caught,the up and drom motion is very smooth,i have had 1 1/2 kilo in the hopper and it tips well.
neil
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Hi Neil
I THINK I know why the servo is groaning it looks from what I can see in ht epics that the arm going to the hopper is maybee touching the HOPPER itself when fully tipped and MAYBEE because of this it wants to throw more.....I know it is difficult to explain without seeing it but to me this is what your problem possibly is.
You need to check the gap between the hopper ad the servo tipping arm,By your own admitions the sound goes away when you touch it....when you are touching it you are more than likely moving the hopper and not noticing that the arm is now tighter against the hopper.Personally I would try to get at least 5mm gap between the hopper and arm when tipped
Dave
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thank you dave ,you are right,i just loosened the fixing to the hopper and this gave the correct amount of movement in the motor,it was only a fraction needed.i will fix it in this new postion.
neil
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Spot on very difficult to comment on what was going on but we got there in the end
Dave
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thanks dave for your help
neil
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hello all,
after listening to other members,i have decided to install a rudder to my boat,are their any pictures on the site which will help me in fitting a rudder,
neil
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Fitting a rudder. This will vary from boat to boat, what arrangement is wanted, and the space available. Many rudders are sold with a fitting kit, the usage usually being fairly obvious when the parts are examined.
Involving a rudder on a twin screw boat gives 2 options - either control both on the left stick and have the rudder control on the right OK for steering on passage, or if turning on the spot is needed, a mixer for the 2 ESCs will be needed, either a harware one in the boat, or done in software at the TX IF the TX supports that.
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thanks malcolm
the only reason i am thinking about a rudder is that i have been told it will be hard to steer with just two engines alone.
neil
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Prop steering is quite possible, but is an art and does need practice. Lots of practice. Steering in a straight line is much easier with a rudder. Having two throttles plus a rudder plus an auxiliary, you very soon run out of fingers - using two ESCs plus a rudder via a mixer is very intuitive to operate and leaves you to concentrate on what you went there for.
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thank you malcolm,
i think i will stick with the two motor steering,ive only got to miss a few ducks,got my boat in resin primer now,tipper is working really good,doing the inside now,motors etc.
neil
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hello all,
been busy saving and building,my question is can i use a 7.2 volt ni-cd1700mah battery to power my planet t5 reciever,or will it be to powerfull.
neil
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6v max I would say.
If your ESC has a bec (battery eliminator circuit)
that will supply around 5v to the receiver.
No need for a separate receiver battery.
Ned
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Just expanding what netleyned said - if the ESC (or one of them if using more than one) has a BEC, then a wide range of main battery voltages can be regulated to the receivers preferred 5 volts.
Lots of clues at - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6169.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6169.0.html) - which might have been mentioned earlier. I would normally expect that any RX connected to 7.2 volts would not last long.
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The fish are still safe then?. %) :embarrassed: {-) %%
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even with the boat the fish will be safe big ada,thanks for the help malcolm and ned.
neil
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hello,building again,nearly finished.
neil
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2
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hello again
just finishing the boxing out of the inside of my bait boat,still to rub down and resin it,
then the bit iam not looking forward too,the electrics.
neil
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Nice to see you haven't given up .
Answers to electrical problems
will be furnished by experts on the
forum if accompanied with a bottle
of malt whisky :} :} :D
Ned
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small bottle ned,
ive brought all the workings of my boat,my main question would be,what thickness of wire do i use to wire up the electrics.
neil
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I always use the thickest silicon covered wire that
will fit the connectors.
It is very flexible and easy to use.
If you put your motor type, ESC and battery
up someone will have the answer.
Ned
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hello ned,
i have two viper marine 15 plug n play,battery are two 12v2,3 ah,the motors are two mabuchi 555,i am working a rudder from my servo,and the tipping of my bait box on channel five switch on my planet t5 transmitter.
neil
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Same size as the ESC main wires
Should be OK
Ned
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thank you ned,
neil
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Just remeber to DISSCONNECT one red wire on the ESC wires otherwise you will cook the esc just use a small screwdriver to get the pin out of the plug and simply tape it up....reasopn for this is simple,each esc supplies a 6v power to the reciever
Dave
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thank you dave,
i will make sure i remove one red wire,.
neil
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hello,
would this setup be ok,i would be adding a y lead to both receiver plugs and removing one red wire from one of the receiver plugs
neil
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If you are going to steer it on the motors then a y lead wont be needed.
Just plug your Rx leads into the channels for the two up and down sticks
(having disconnected one red from esc}
Ned
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hello ned,
iam now having a rudder,and useing the motors as power just to run.
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Adding a Y lead would do the job especially as y9ou are using a rudder....PERSONALLY I wouldnt use that make of esc's at all but I WOULD use a ACTion P94 combined ESC/Mixer ...
WHY...................No Need to use a rudder
.........................You can turn the boat round on it's axis
.........................Defo more reliable then the ESC's you are using.
WHY do I say this ...........well it's simple really ......Having Built and repaired more bait boats than I care to rember where reliability is needed there is only one compny's product I would use......just rebuilt a bait Boat last week that had cost the owner in excess of £500 and it was a so called British built boat that was full of inferior electronics.........filled it with ACTion stuff and now I got a further 3 to do
Dave
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thanks dave,
i havent much money to buy anything st the moment,i try this setup and maybe in the future upgrade,as this is my first build.
neil :-)