Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Seaspray on November 20, 2013, 10:29:04 pm
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A long long time ago I read an article on Model Boats Magazine. It was the introduction of the new Revell kit Meteor 1:300. scale. Having bought and built the kit I got interested in building a working scale model. It took sometime to find the G.A. plans and purchased from the German Maritime Museum. To my dismay and inexperience There was no line drawings or any info that would help build the hull . Having replied to a thread on Mayhem about an RAF Firetender I meet Riggers and the conversation came round to the Meteor. Riggers mentioned he had a friend that might be able to help me with line drawings. I received phone call from Bluebird. After a long chat with him he asked if he could have a look at the plans so I sent the plans to him' About a week later a large package arrived to my house. Opening it up there was this excellent scratch built hull of the Meteor. I phoned John and thanked him as I couldn't believe it. So started my quest in building the Research Vessel Meteor. You all must realise other than a Wave Princess and a Tarpon kit build I had no other model boat building experience. On with the build and I would like to thank the many people that helped with parts, pics, info and where to get this and that on the net,
THE HULL
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more pics of hull build
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Very interesting! You seem to be off to a good start, keep up the good work!
Hama
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Thanks. The model is almost finished it has taken 10 years . Most of the parts are in boxes ready to be assembled. Just the mast to do.
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construction of hull
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Jimmy Woods did a fine 1:96 model of Meteor .
Bowwave
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Looking good....
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Hi Bowwave
Cheers I have been in contact with Jimmy Wood for years and have loads of pic from him. Also lots of pictures from the Captain of the Meteor and other people.
Hi B.B.
Cheers I've been hoping to finish the model every September for 5 years now and something happens every time
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More pics of the hull build. These were built by Bluebird
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Hi
the build is looking good.
I might be going mad but I could have sworn there was a build of this ship or a sister ship on her prior to the big melt down. I tryed searching for it can not find it.
john
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This is the build you refer to. Were all nutters on this site. l.o.l.
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The build I remember was almost finished. as this one is starting. you have lost me some were.
john
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cos918
It was taken off the site sometime ago and it did look like it was near finish but it wasn't. I've got my health back now( but getting an other op in 8 weeks) Restarted build over the last 6 months. This time I am including Bluebird's pics of the hull build.
Hope this explains the situation with you
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Hello
that explains it now.
john
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hi there Martin
ten years since that hull was built - and looking at the photographs - I still have the same rubbish under me bench %% - the bench is round the other way now, that was when I used to have the bench in front of the window.
Hurry up man, get on with the build and post the rest of the photos. The hull was just the blank canvas, you have and are doing the real work.
aye
john
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Alright John just teasing you but can only load 3-4 pics at a time. Spent 4 days doing the 6 life rafts and now spray em tomorrow and at the same time doing the railing round the front of the bridge top. I'll push more pics in the next week.
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more pics
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last of hull pics
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Here we go
1st pic the Revell kit that started it all
2ND The hull getting clean up
3rd Original layout but motor couldn't line up with the prop shaft
4Th New layout. note motor is above prop shaft facing forward on it's new mount and belt drive
5Th New layout opposite view
Many thanks to Peter Henshaw HS93 for machining the motor bracket and including a bearing seat.( R.I.P Peter)
Notice that I had to bend the rudder control rods. Thanks to Bluebird
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1.Front deck section
2.Rear deck section
3.All weighted down for a few days
4. Decks completed
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This is nice!!
And what a good friend, you sent him the plans to look at and receive a complete hull!
Keep them pictures coming!
Hama
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Hi hama
Cheers he is a good mate, the best. Just a case of sorting the pics out as there on my old computer and my new laptop . Some of them have a 2003 date of creation
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It took sometime to find the G.A. plans and purchased from the German Maritime Museum. To my dismay and inexperience There was no line drawings or any info that would help build the hull.
Hello Seaspray,
I'm so sorry to read about your misfortune.
What a shame that you had to purchase the GA plans.
Btw, did you purchase them from the Deutsches Schiffahrtsmuseum (DSM) (http://www.dsm.museum/) in Bremerhaven?
They do host a vast collection of shipyard ship plans in their archive.
But they, I am afraid, have to charge per copy, and they will probably also charge the time it requires a museum's employee to dig out the requested plans which sometimes may take a while,
for much of their inventory doesn't yet cover all of their plans in stock as it seems.
But especially with material about the METEOR there is an abundance freely available on the Internet.
Please, have a look at the website of the Institute of Oceanography (http://www.ifm.zmaw.de/ldf/meteor-cruises/) of the University of Hamburg.
On this page you will find the links to sheet 1 (http://www.ifm.zmaw.de/fileadmin/files/leitstelle/meteor/GP_Meteor_2030-0100-04_H__Bl-01.pdf) and sheet 2 (http://www.ifm.zmaw.de/fileadmin/files/leitstelle/meteor/GP_Meteor_2030-0100-04_H__Bl-02.pdf) of the GA plan.
You will also find links to several issues of the METEOR Handbook (in German and in English, in different page formats, and of different dates of issue).
These handbooks are usually meant as a reference for scientists and other folks that embark on the METEOR for a research voyage in order to familiarize themselves with the vessel's layout, its equipment and life on board in general.
For us model makers these handbooks host many technical descriptions accompanied by drawings of gear and equipment such as cranes, probe hoists and test probes, radio equipment and antennae etc.
And they are fun to browse through for the technically inclined as well.
Apart from this bounty of material about the METEOR you can get all the plans, including the body plan, from the people at the institute directly if you ask them politely, as they are extremely helpful folks.
It took for instance a fellow model boater from our German R/C model boat forum only a phone call with Capt. Niels Jakobi (http://www.ifm.zmaw.de/de/ldf/kontakt/) of the institute to obtain all plans immediately for his planned model making of METEOR.
Said Niels Jakobi is also one of the co-authors of the book 25 Years of Research Vessel METEOR (http://www.amazon.de/25-Jahre-Meteor-Niels-Jakobi/dp/3897575078/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385554124&sr=8-1&keywords=FS+Meteor).
Although this book (unforunately for you) is written in German it also includes a reprint of the body plan sections of fore and aft ship in the book's hard cover inside.
When you download the GA plan you will realize from its side elavation (sheet 1) that the stem of your model hull deviates considerably from the current shape on the original vessel.
This is due to the fact that the shipbuilders (i.e. the sadly since long defunct Schlichting-Werft in Travemünde) soon convertert METEOR's bow pretty short after inauguration
because the scientists were complaining that the original big bulb seemingly was obstructing the (I think especially horizontal) waves of the echo sounder which is fitted to the keel close to the bow.
To come up with a more slender and with the echo sounder reconcilable bulb shape further model test were carried out at the Hamburg Ship Model Basin (http://www.hsva.de/),
and the slim bulb cross section and less prodtruding stem contour below the DWL which can be seen today was retrofitted to the bow.
Also note that the hull lines bear another speciality which you can see from the image I took the liberty to attach to my post
because this vessel has been so vastly publicly documented in many research papers that I think no one would file a copyright case.
What I mean is the asymmetric stern according to Ernst Nönnicke.
You can find the patent specifications here (http://www.google.com/patents/US3455263patent) for some explanations what the purpose is of this uncommon hull form.
I wonder if you incorporated an asymmetric stern into your model, which I would assume can be a little tricky to build.
As already mentioned, if you still need more material on the METEOR don't hesitate and contact Capt. Jakobi.
I am sure that he will be most co-operative.
Regards,
Ralph
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Hi deadwood (Ralph)
Thanks for your reply interesting and very similar to the way i went to get the info on the Meteor. I did get 2 DVDs with loads of pics and the plans on a PDF file. A leaflet on the open weekend of the Meteor from Captain Niels Jakobi . The PDF file is good as I can blow it up to 100% and it is the correct scale size. Very useful as the original plans have been well used with lots of signs of ware. Recently inquired to the German Museum for a new sheet 1 plan which cost 30 euros. too much for me. I was told about the different shape around the rudder and prop area but the model is not to that spec. Nor has it the drop down thruster to keep her on station.
Currently just finished the rails on the helicopter deck and the 6 life rafts. The railings for cabin roof completed and will be fitted to model at the weekend. That just leaves the main mast to do.
Regards
Martin ( the other Martin)
If anything has come out of it. It is I am very good now at retrieving info off the net.
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Hi Martin,
I wasn't aware that you already had tapped the sources that I mentioned in my post and thus have been furnished with all the material available.
I agree, 30 € per sheet would also for me, who of necessity is a low cost and waste recycling modeller, be a bit hefty.
Regards,
Ralph
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Ralph
Its all been good info you have furnished and shows me i went the right way in getting it.
Has also has helped in getting info on my next model the Scotia .
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Hello Martin,
do you mean this fisheries research vessel?
ShipSpotting.com (http://www.shipspotting.com/)
(http://cdn2.shipspotting.com/photos/small/9/6/6/1598669.jpg) (http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1598669)
© Richard Paton
It's a beautiful ship too, and not that I want to dissuade you.
But our German Federal Office for Agriculture and Food (http://www.ble.de/SharedDocs/Bilder/BLE/02_Kontrolle/02_Fischerei/131106_Seefalke_English.html?nn=2307758) also operates pretty interesting fishery protection vessels.
My personal favorite is the old MEERKATZE (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meerkatze_%28Schiff,_1977%29) which was in service until she had been replaced by the follow-up MEERKATZE (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meerkatze_%28Schiff,_2009%29) in 2009.
I have plans of both vessels, and I am sure that you can get them from the above linked ministery's fisheries shipping department if you ask them.
As for the old MEERKATZE, which in my view has the more womanly round flowing lines of a 70s ship design, you can even download her GA plan from Hempel's Shipping website (http://www.hempel-shipping.de/RS/index.php?id=44)
who run her today under the Name AQUARIUS as a research vessel.
Luckily they have introduced only little reconstructional changes that haven't spoiled her elegant silhouette during refurbishment,
and they applied an interesting orange livery onto her hull.
ShipSpotting.com (http://www.shipspotting.com/)
(http://cdn2.shipspotting.com/photos/small/0/9/3/1702390.jpg) (http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1702390)
© Andreas Spörri
ShipSpotting.com (http://www.shipspotting.com/)
(http://cdn2.shipspotting.com/photos/small/4/9/2/1734294.jpg) (http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1734294)
© swar0232
I also have already drawn her hull lines in DELFTship (http://www.rc-modellbau-schiffe.de/wbb2/thread.php?postid=317392#post317392) because I wanted to build a model of her,
but haven't yet managed to find time and resources to realize this project.
But the new series of fishery protection vessels aren't bad either.
ShipSpotting.com (http://www.shipspotting.com/)
(http://cdn2.shipspotting.com/photos/small/8/2/3/1666328.jpg) (http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1666328)
© Ulf Kornfeld
Of course, I couldn't resist to draw their hull lines (http://www.schiffsmodell.net/showthread.php?p=478999#post478999) as well.
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Hi Ralph
Yes that right see pic I've got the hull and plans picture on dvd from Aberdeen and Help From David Tait ( cheers David) All ready to build when I finish the Meteor. I am seriously thinking of building the hull as plank and frame I think I have enough knowledge to have a go. There is so many but I went for a Scottish boat
Martin
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First 2 pics are plan tracing to mark up next upper decks
Front opening for battery Rx fitting places
Middle deck opening for ESC and rudder servo access
Rear deck opening access to motor and prop oiler and to check rods haven't got bent
Hatch offered up to see if it fits below it is rubber bands glued to inside edges to create a water seal
Hatch finished screwed in place.
The little pieces of square on last two picture are guides and supportsfor the edges of next deck up
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more pics of build
1st A look into the front opening shows the Rx in place and the battery tray. made for a 12volt 7 amp size battery
2nd Forecastle deck datum lined and measured up for position of bulwark support pins.
3rd Pins in place and at correct angles
4th Template in the making for the Bulwark around the deck
5th Template different pic I noticed that the paper used, had to be tight up against the model's side to give a true template
6th Finished template with some jotted down references
7th Card cut out of template offering up to see if it was a good fit
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1.Offering bulwark to deck to be trimmed to fit.
2. This is a better fit little more trimming to do.
3. Final fit and glue to the support pins.
4. Slipway be built up to correct angle.
5.Cover plate cut to size and wood edging supports glue in place. Rubber bands glued on top of these to seal this compartment. Will allow access if rudder / servo arm needs attention.
6. Cover plate in place screwed down on seal. Lines on deck for bulwark layout and support pins in place.
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1. Bulwark support brass pins in position on rear deck soon to be come the Working Deck
2. Starting to glue Bulwarks into place
3. Bulwarks completed note the plasticard slivers inside them to hide the pins and to look like inside supports Top fitted (railing) and a little clean up.
4. Bulwarks on the Starboard side. Also 2 cargo hatches built.
5. Forecastle deck bulwarks almost finished with the hatch offered up.
6. Other view of deck a little tidy up here is needed.
Picture 0309 you'll see I have started on the cabins on the Port Side of the Work deck
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1. Bulwark support brass pins in position on rear deck soon to be come the Working Deck
Hi Martin,
how are those brass pins fixed to the deck?
Just squeezed and glued into drilled support holes?
I wonder how such mounting/fixture withstands the tension and bending stresses introduced by i.e. the focsle bulwark while the glue hasn't dried?
I would have thought that it teared off the pins.
Regards,
Ralph
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hi ya there Ralph, I have been watching this build and not intervening as it is Martins build. When Martin first begun this project it was well over 10 years ago and information on this vessel was very difficult to obtain, there were few photographs and plans if any available. When Martin approached me with regard to help I spent a long time with Martin trying to research this vessel, even with my contacts I have at Maritime Museum, John Lamberts and others - at that time they all drew blanks. So I opted to draw, using what information I had - a new set of plans to work from. I produced the hull to prove the plans would work and then passed that along with other information back to Martin - Martin was handed a blank canvas.
I have seen the model in the raw shall we say, as almost finished and with the amount of detail he has accomplished on this model - I myself have one regret the hull should have been built at twice the scale it is. As far as the bulwarks and the brass pins are concerned, I and several other people have used this method for over 30 years of modelling - and I myself have had no problems with this form of attaching the bulwarks to the brass pins as long as the plywood is steamed and bent into shape. If you would like further information on this process, cast your eye over the Master build section of this here forum and have a look at the fishing trawler the Spashett build and also the tug Cervia build. You will see the same process being used there - and they are still in tact having been abused/thrown in the lake by mishandling as I normally do by onself!!
aye
John
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Hi Ralph
The pin holes are drilled as close to the edge as possible or the width of the wood used for the Bulwarks. Which allows using the strip of wood underneath joining the deck to the frames as a further support.. Up at the bow cause of the angle the pins are bent away from the frames to stop them popping through the side. allowing more length of pin. Inserted pins with super glue on them. A little smearing of wood workers glue PVA is used on the bottom of the Bulwark to deck as a further support. They are very strong Bulwarks. A little home made wood gauge is used to determine the correct height of the pins. And the plastic pieces that are glued to the pins on the inside are tacked in place with super glue then a good coat of PVA to hide pins give a greater pin support. I believe this is the best way for a really strong assembly.
Regards
Martin
John I now know what you mean about bell wire got some and it does go through the links on the 42 links per inch chain link I bought. Also your right about burning off the superglue and araldite. The chain pieces can be reused Cheers Martin
Picture of stern using plasticard. looks rough but sprayed up looking good.
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1. Top view lets us see that all running gear can be got at includes the screwed down hatch work deck
2. Port cabins waiting to have the doors fitted and just to let you see it comes of for access
3. Next deck up not to bad a shape to do
4.. Top off deck in pic 2 offered up to be trimmed to shape and size.
5.. Different view with the template in position for the work deck shape this will be planked.
6. And the next deck up from pic 2. it went together O.K.
7. Port side view and the Revell plastic model. This part of build went well considering we had to allow for gaining access into the model.
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Various views of the Bridge build.
Pic 5 the template for the roof of bridge and pic 7 and 8 the ply top which is cut to size and offered up.
Next Bridge Wind Deflector
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Construction of the Bridge's Wind Deflector
1. Picture of plan
2-5 various stages of build
6. In position checking to see if it is fitting correctly.
I used templates till the fit was good. Then ply copies glued in place. First time I have built something with so many angles and tapered shapes
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Wow, nice job Seaspray, and with a hull by John and bracket machining by Peter (R.I.P) this model is a showpiece for the craftsmanship of our forum members. It would be an honour to be asked to help by building some component, any other takers? I mean, if Seaspray agrees, we could help to bring part 2 of this build to to a close in less than another 10 years I'm sure.
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Hi cdsc123
How is the weather at the Rock
The model has only the mast to build and paint it. I just decided to do the whole build on Mayhem as I felt it needed to be done.
Many thanks for the offer but I am now fully fit back home in Scotland and retired. I have loads of time and hopefully will be sailing her at Newcastle in early summer.
Martin
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Hi Martin
Ah good, glad to hear it and I look forward to seeing more of the build.
More easterly gales here at the moment, very heavy clouds but no rain as the warm Med air holds it's moisture very well.
Entertainment being provided by brave yachtsmen who keep full sails up in the gusty lee of the Rock, interesting to see their keels fully out of the water.
Best regards,
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1. More work on the Bridge roof I think this is called the Fly Bridge where the mast sits on.
2.The Work Deck which is removable to gain access to motor / shaft , ESC and rudder servo horn. So it was made of ply that was planked. Here is the card template is place to get the correct shape and dimensions.
3. The ply base traced from the card template is to be planked. Sorry can't remember the type of wood. Final to check fit, looks good.
4.Started to stain the deck but wasn't happy with it Used another method of staining with coffee and teabags which work out giving the desired finish.
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1. More work on the Bridge roof I think this is called the Fly Bridge where the mast sits on.
2.The Work Deck which is removable to gain access to motor / shaft , ESC and rudder servo horn. So it was made of ply that was planked. Here is the card template is place to get the correct shape and dimensions.
3. The ply base traced from the card template is to be planked. Sorry can't remember the type of wood. Final to check fit, looks good.
4.Started to stain the deck but wasn't happy with it Used another method of staining with coffee and teabags which work out giving the desired
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Continuing on the Work deck construction
1.The planked deck is offered in place to check it is a good fit as it might have expanded with staining.
2. Next 2 pictures are showing the area around the slipway (white wood parts) This area is going to be planked and isn't removable because the A frame support are there. A ply template made then planked both glue in place. This makes the whole deck area level.
3. The final look of the deck stained to the desire affect.
4. Final fit on model
I didn't for one minute think that using coffee and/or teabag would stain the planking.
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Hope you have enjoyed the old build so far. Me I am hanging up my modelling tools till after the New Year. More picture after the festive season
So with that I wish you all Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Hope Santa is good to you.
Martin
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By request more pics of the build.
1. All the model 2 coats of sanding sealer and rubbed down. Looking carefully at the Forecastle Deck you will see the mark up for the raised hatch on this deck.
2. These are the brass etch window frames from John R Haynes. Many thanks John.
3. Some of the details being put on to the superstructure.
4. The Funnel built and offered into position.
5. Funnel paint and Meteor badge glued. Made from an image lifted of the net and re sized using Paint Shop Pro 7.
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One last picture to finish off the year
The bath test. A good wash from the prop and no leaks sits straight up in the water. But as the build continued there were a few unsuspected changes to come.
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Hi John I forgot to bring the Mast over for you to look at. So here it is.
More pictures the Mast build
1. The Plan and the wood from a piece of floor brush shaft to make Radar Doom.
2. Mast parts on Forecastle Deck temporary glue together to see if they looks right.
3. Starting to solder all parts together
4. From an other angle.
5. All soldered and sprayed
6. Side view and sprayed with varnish.
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The two raised hatches one on the Forecastle Deck and the other on the Work Deck sprayed up and varnished
Currently planning the build of the Main Mast
Thats it till the new year
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More build pictures
1. The hull primed and all bad surfaces sandpapered smooth
2. The red base primer sprayed on to the water line
3. Top red coat sprayed and left for a week to cure.
4. The blue coat sprayed and it left for a week too.
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Ah well back to the drawing board as I've had to disassemble all the boat parts to do 2 missed jobs.
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Ah well back to the drawing board as I've had to disassemble all the boat parts to do 2 missed jobs.
Hi,
I've been following this build ............ Fantastic job. I'm struggling my way through my first build. Plank on frame hull ....... I have a question (hope you don't mind me crashing your thread to ask it) ..... Your hull??? Would I be correct in my observation that you have used 2 coats of sanding sealer, primer and paint straight on the wood ???? .......I've seen some threads where and polyester resin and fine glass cloth is used before paint ........... But now having seen your build that doesn't seem necessary. Or do I have it wrong somewhere??? ...... Personally I'd rather cut out the resin / glass cloth thing if I can.
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Hi Peter
If you go to Masterclass> Drifter/ Trawler> Frederick Spashett> Reply 14 by Bluebird.
I believe this is how John finished off the hull. It was certainly without blemishes, bumps and just needed a slight rub down with 400 wet n dry, used wet.
John may reply to the way he done the hull. Keep checking.
Regards
Martin
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Hi ya Martin and Peter
the hull was finished with the following procedure...
when the planking was finished the hull was sanded with coarse sanding paper to remove any big blemishes and any uneveness was filled with P38 car body filler from Halfords. This again was sanded smooth and then one layer of polyester resin with hardener was added to the mix. This was applied to the hull and allowed to go tacky. Then fibre glass tissue matting was applied to the hull and on top of the tissue matting there were two further coats of polyester resin applied. Obviously allowingn the 2nd coat to harden off before the final coat was applied.
this was set aside for at least 2 days to allow the resin to harden off and fully cure and then the surface was rubbed down with various grades of wetn dry by hand.
hope this is of some help.
aye
John
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Now to sort things out which were overlooked. Bilge Keels and the Anchor Hawse
1. Remove paint work in keel area and cut Hawse opening
2.Fit and secure keels with some resin between keel and hull with small nails to hold in position also run a coat of resin inside hull making sure no leaks. The Anchor Hawse were measured and taped at the cut edge. The square area cut out with a Stanley. Making a recess for anchor to be seen in its stowed position. Remove tape and fit new tape to the edge of hole cut for the Hawse and hand paint black. Peel tape of if your lucky like me you won't need to paint the blue hull area around anchor hawse hole.
3. I let the paint to cure then painted the Forecastle Deck green and its Bulwark white also the Port cabin tops roofs.
4. Fitted more etchings on the Portside Superstructure. The portholes after blacking them with chemical. Can't remember what is was but in future I paint them black as it wasn't that a great success with the chemical process. Fitted them after hull was painted but holes predrilled before. Portholes are glazed and a run of resin along the inside of hull to stop leaks
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Hi ya Martin and Peter
the hull was finished with the following procedure...
when the planking was finished the hull was sanded with coarse sanding paper to remove any big blemishes and any uneveness was filled with P38 car body filler from Halfords. This again was sanded smooth and then one layer of polyester resin with hardener was added to the mix. This was applied to the hull and allowed to go tacky. Then fibre glass tissue matting was applied to the hull and on top of the tissue matting there were two further coats of polyester resin applied. Obviously allowingn the 2nd coat to harden off before the final coat was applied.
Thanks John and Martin.............. I guess Polyester resin it is then. Never used it before so that's something else to "screw up" I suppose {:-{ ......... Anyway, I'll back out of your thread now John. But I'll keep an eye on it as it looks to be a superb build.
this was set aside for at least 2 days to allow the resin to harden off and fully cure and then the surface was rubbed down with various grades of wetn dry by hand.
hope this is of some help.
aye
John
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Hi Peter61
Practise on something with various straights bends and the like till you feel confident to do the model. Remember it is tissue matting you apply to the hull
Read reply 52 on this thread and use the reference to John's trawler build reply 14 again
Best way of learning is by our mistakes.
Martin
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Hi ya Martin and Peter
Peter - this is not my build this is Martin's build. All I did was build a hull about 10 year ago and over to Martin, Martin you are making a cracking job of it.
I have seen the model myself (as Martin took the time to drive over from Scotland och aye the noo land) and brought the model over to Geordie land.... :-) ... for me to see.
The pictures dont do the model justice.
Howway Martin put more pictures on and more of your build, as enjoy seeing them.
I was thinking Martin is a Scotsman and someone has to tell him he doesnt have to pay to put photographs on Mayhem.
aye
nooo
the John
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L.O.L. John I could have sworn "the other Martin" was making up an invoice to post to me
Your doing well on your own build and glad it is near finish.
Hi all more pics of the Working Deck crane fitted on top of the working deck cabins Port Side
1. The base of the crane actual size from plan side view
2. Same base front view
3. Base glued on the body of crane and main arms fitted
4. View from top of crane.
5. The boom copper wire used to simulate ladders on top of boom
More to follow to night
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Further pics of crane build
1. Parts ready for assembly
2. Rams fitted
3. Alternative view.
4. Near completion
5. White primer use to give a light top coat. Also a spray test to check colour wanted.
6. Crane finished.
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1. All 3 cranes were built in the same way and same colour.
2. This is the small inflatable that is a spare as they have lifeboats. Made of styrene
3. Inflatable in the stowed position just above the work deck
4. The gangway built using ply and styrene
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Hi ya Martin and Peter
Peter - this is not my build this is Martin's build. All I did was build a hull about 10 year ago and over to Martin, Martin you are making a cracking job of it.
I have seen the model myself (as Martin took the time to drive over from Scotland och aye the noo land) and brought the model over to Geordie land.... :-) ... for me to see.
The pictures dont do the model justice.
Howway Martin put more pictures on and more of your build, as enjoy seeing them.
I was thinking Martin is a Scotsman and someone has to tell him he doesnt have to pay to put photographs on Mayhem.
aye
nooo
the John
Well I'm a bit confused ........ But whoever is building it......... It's damn good, and if my modest attempt at the Occre Ulises is half as good. I'll be happy :-))
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Hi Peter61
Martin here (Seaspray) I am building this model and have been for ten years now.
John (Bluebird) built the hull ten years ago for me.
Regards the Occre Ulises you'll do fine. As you know from your past posts there is loads of help here.
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Hi Martin .......... Now I understand. ......... 10 years ???? That is epic. Some of the plastic scale models I've built have taken me a year or more but 10 years ???? ..... I guess the best things can't be rushed. :-))
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Here she is with her superstructure sprayed up
You can see the A frame cut out of ply laying on forecastle deck pic 3 and the helicopter pad fitted and sprayed
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More pictures
1.2.3. show the 3 cranes in their position and all are removable
4 shows the cooler or air intakes with the white lines of insulation tape
5. I decided they looked toyish and removed the tape leaving a suitable impression of gratings
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1. This is my soldering station yep the hob I use the extractor and it gets rid of the solder smell. Works for me.
2.The winch on Forecastle Deck plan
3. The deck winches made up of odd bits n pieces from the scrap box. No whistles or bells just a good look a like off the winches
3. Winches built ready for painting
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Building the A frame deck supports
1. and 2. Built of the plan
3. Offered into position looks good.
4. Removed and sprayed.
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Desk supports glued into position and some of the winches . now on to the A frame
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Pics of the A Frame build
1. basic shape cut out
2. top railing fitted
3. Gantry fitted
4. Sprayed front view
5. Sprayed rear view
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Two views of the A frame in position. It is removable if needed.
Rubbing it down I reprimed and sprayed it again to get a lighter brighter colour.
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Now the telescopic crane next to the the gantry which en houses the ram which operates the unit in the picture 5
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Gantry and Crane
1. Parts prepared for assembly
2. Gantry and Ram offered up to see if they look right
3. Ram removed and ram guide glued in place. Upright piece of wood is to keep the correct width for ram when fitted
4. First spray up. that rough looking part on top is masking tape to be remove when paint dry
5. Construction finished in place side view.
6. Front view
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The Forecastle Deck more or less finished . Hatch removed to view radio on/of switch as is the mast.
Tonight the Spool /Winch unit
Regards last posting the end of the ram has a arm coming down from it to the deck . It has been remove and will be replaced when finished model too easy to break.
Also a better picture of the funnel since I had to repair it
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The spools / winches unit
1. The plan with unit blue lined
2. Parts cut to construct the unit
3. Rear part assemble. The picture was a great help Thanks to a modeller who has built the Meteor to.
4. Both parts sprayed up
5. Both parts finished
6. Sitting on model hhmmm need to touch up that white / green paint line
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Davits big problem here as not much to go on in information in the G.A. drawing but had 1 or 2 measurements
1 Worked out some Davit angles to play with.
2 Drew up a plan of what might be a good comparison.
3 Built 2 legs prototypes using drawing of Davit and liferaft.
4 Top view checking length / shape looks good
5 Side view looks even better
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Continued lifeboats build
1. The piece of wood used to build the boats. It came from the inside of a washing machine to steady the drum during transport. I've use this wood before and it is well matured.
2. Bottom half of the lifeboats
3. One boat's wooden structure finished
4. Both boats finished.
5 Sprayed up rear view
6. Front view.
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Finishing off life rafts fitted them to Davits and offered up to their position on board
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The Life Raft build
1.Firstly picture of the ladders, stanchions and 45% steps. I couldn't get steps that didn't have holes in the side
2. Life rafts started building them in wood with plastic ribbing but found it hard to get the plastic to stick to the wood. Shouldn't have put sand sealer on the wood ( thanks Bluebird). Decided to build using all plastic.
3. Old faithful drill used to shape the ends round
4. The first rib glued all the way round
5. Now the ribs that go across the raft
6. Ribs completed and their bases ready to glue on
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Great job so far Seaspray. I love the way the liferafts turned out. You have inspired me to give it a go with my Meteor build. I'll start on the CAD work and start building this Summer with any luck. Keep up the the great work and I look forward to more progress pictures.
Charles
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Charles
Many thanks more life rafts tonight :-))
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Life Rafts
1. Glued on to their bases
2. Offered up to the deck to if the look right.
3. First layout on deck.
4. Note the rafts have their handles glued on and starting to build the stanchions / rail configuration
5 Revamped the design because there should be 3 chains across each opening in rails for rafts. I couldn't do the chains due to the shaky hands. So went back a few years and adopted this design.
6. Rafts glued in position with front railing offered in position
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Brilliant!
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Side view of the rafts completed in position just to glue down.
The railing assembly was rebuilt due to the soldering mess caused by tape gunk which got mixed in with the solder
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Very smart thinking. It looks just right. :-))
ken
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It is like that on my plan but I tried to put chains on railings in front of raft..next time maybe
I am getting to the stage I don't want to sail her in case I bump her
Cheers Ken
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Railings made of 0.5mm piano wire supplied by 4D modelshop and 10 mm high 5 holes stanchions supplied by Gordon Brooks
1. Designing the layout using a brass strip shape taken directly of the deck not plan
2 Started at the bad place where there is a few bends wire shaped then placed in the stanchions solder one by one
3. Round the other side and more shapes I am glad I used piano wire as the work in getting the shapes right
took some readjustments. I don't think brass wire would have survived.
4. Job done now a clean up and prep for spraying
5. An easy part for at the end of the deck
6. This part is on top of the little cabin and the crane in it's parting position goes over it.
7. Next set of railings shaped for on top of the port work deck cabins
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Railings made of 0.5mm piano wire supplied by 4D modelshop and 10 mm high 5 holes stanchions supplied by Gordon Brooks
1. Designing the layout using a brass strip shape taken directly of the deck not plan
2 Started at the bad place where there is a few bends wire shaped then placed in the stanchions solder one by one
3. Round the other side and more shapes I am glad I used piano wire as the work in getting the shapes right
took some readjustments. I don't think brass wire would have survived.
4. Job done now a clean up and prep for spraying
5. An easy part for at the end of the deck
6. This part is on top of the little cabin and the crane in it's parting position goes over it.
7. Next set of railings shaped for on top of the port work deck cabins
That lot is seriously impressive ........ :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) If my Ulises finishes 1/2 as well I'll be happy.
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Cheers Peter
Your build is looking good to :-)) :-))
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Railings
1. Some railings and ladders built prep sprayed ready to fit to boat.
2.3.4.5. various picture of railings in positions
6. Foreground is the rail that the crane leans over in its parked position and the orange securing/ rest leg just aft of funnel.
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Railings look great. What did you use for the incline ladders?
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admiralbb62
1 & 2 pics I used these for the 45% ladders
3 & 4 pics used these funnel ladders for vertical steps 1,2,3,4, etching are from Gordon Brooks
5. I also got ladders from John R Haynes the etchings in pic 5 I haven't use them but will be used on the Scotia next build
The ladder railings were made of 0.5mm piano wire. Looking at them I'll do a more better job shaping them next time
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Thanks. I'll have to get some incline ladders for my build
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Railings on the bridge roof around the wind deflector
1. Template the front to get the angles for the single rail on top of deflector
2,3. Formed rail I used brass 0.4mm this time as the stations aren't too strong supporting the rail
4. Starting to shape the brass strip that the rails are soldered on to.
5. Building the rails has started and the angles are a bit of a pain on this part of bridge roof.
6. Further rails built a slow job trying to keep things straight and level.
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Continuing of the Bridge Deck roof railings
1. A little more rails soldered
2. Starboard side and aft Port side soldered
3.Starting on the Forward Port side being constructed
4. Rails offered into position making sure a good fit
5. Opposite view
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3 views of the completed rails. Cleaned prepted and sprayed.
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nice work. the railing look great
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Cheers mate
Fly bridge tomorrow
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Fly Bridge railings
1. Finally got round to joining support uprights / legs
2. Sits level and holes filled and resprayed
3. Brass strip being shaped to support stanchions
4 .Looks right shape
5. Fits snugly in its place
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Building the Fly Bridge railings
1.Getting the right angle on the front rails
2.Front part completed
3.Check for a snug fit front view
4.Snug fit rear view.
5. Cleaned, prept and sprayed
6. Opposite view
Job Done
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Nicely done. Looks like the real thing
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Hi all
Thanks again Charles
Will be starting to annoy Bluebird again as the mast is the next build and pump him for information but i have the gear at a cost of £40. Isn't it becoming a dear hobby Plan in background
Will also be putting decals on the hull and will show pics soon
1. Brass sheet, tubing, new jewelers saw and blades (Neil & Circlip thanks) Will be starting this next month in the shed as I don't think I'll get away with soldering it in the kitchen on the hob
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Hull markings applied.
Just wondering whether a spray with acrylic varnish might protect them form the water as they're very near the water level
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It's usually a good idea to varnish them, especially if they are water slide types. You need to varnish just the label to the edges, not the whole boat.
Ken
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Hi Ken
The whole boat has been previously been varnished. Just that these are BECC vinyl sticky pre cut decals and I am not sure if they would be o.k. in water.Best spray them, cheers
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Been doing a little trimming in getting things straight and level. Model sitting just right now but will have to put a little ballast in the bow to get it down. This will raise the stern which will make the trimming right.
Don't be fooled by the A frame as it is not fully in position.
Starting mast next week
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Looks great. Sure is nice to build ships that fit in the bathtub. Most of mine are too long :o
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My bath is too big for this project so here is my test tank :-))
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Thanks lads that the big and small of boat modelling
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An absolutely superb job........... Five very big :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) from me.
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Cheers Peter61
Just waiting for brass tubing to come. I ordered brass rod by mistake and would have used it. But the lighter the weight so high up has to be kept to a minimum.
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Got the right brass now First pic is the plan highlighted in green to get the beams going the right way
Various stages in constructing the main mast. So far it is only built to the first level and needs a clean up to remove some unwanted solder.Level the platform by taking a little off the rear leg
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Impressive . And a pretty model subject . keep up the good work .
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What a brilliant looking job well go to the top of the class with your model looking forward to seeing her on the water
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very impressive work there...............the ONLY thing that concernes me is the mast arrangement I dont know if it is an optical illusion BUT it seems rather tall ??????
Dave
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Thanks again all
Dave. It is correct and is tall. Look back on the build where I said I was going to use brass to keep the weight down. I knew it was high then.
Couple of pics to let you see the height of the mast.
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The model may tip over.
Is it too late to build it in plastic tube. ?
Ken
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I would without a shadow of a doubt build that in Plastic far to much weight up top
Dave
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Ken & Dave
I am not really a plastic fan. The model still needs some ballast, lowering the hull further in the water. This will help with buoyancy... bottom heavy.
My problem could be sailing her on a windy day. As I know the full mast would be a wind catcher.
Current weight of part built mast is 9 grams. Top part to do and it is not as heavy as its only one main support and the rest is aerials.
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Seaspray....I understand all comments...... :}
1. it is not the windage....
2. it is not the necessarily the weight
3. it is the position or metre centric point of balance [inverted pendulum effect] O0
Keep on with your planned construction :-))...& test sale in a real green water on a windy day [not the bath tub] & ascertain the models stability..........
I too am not a fan of plastic >>:-( .....ends being out of scale to maintain strength..........Derek
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I can loose some top weight by cutting away some inside ply from areas that upper decks sit on.
Also the floor of the bridge and cabins behind it. Hoping to get the weight of the model in the hull by ballast and batteries.
I think we'll be o.k.
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Hi ya there Martin
The build is looking really good - I wouldnt be too concerned about what they say regarding the masts looking a bit top heavy - as the photographs make it look as though the mast has been built from solid brass - when in actual fact its brass tubing - which is far, far lighter than the solid brass. I very much doubt if there would be very much difference in weight between plastic or wood compared to what you are building in brass. The main advantage of building this structure from brass is that the mast will be far stronger and be able to take knocks - because it will be a vulnerable for misplaced hands %% and if it were made from plastic or wood - well it would just break. If you want any reassurance just have a look through some of the builds on this Forum - I believe George's build of the Corvette (I think George is from Canada) and his build on that model is 90% brass and he has no issues with top weight/top heavy.
As you have said if you do have issues, you can always remove the internal decks in the vicinity of the bridge.
Really look forward to seeing your Meteor on the water; put the doubt casters minds at rest <*< :-))
aye
John
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http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,27672.0.html
:-))
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Further pictures of the mast build. Little problem here due to the heat needed to get a good joint. A bit of rework and clean up will bring up a stronger nice looking job, hopefully. Total weight of mast is 15 grams so far. :-))
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Radar units on the 1st platform on the mast
Tricky brass soldering especially when soldering two pieces together of different thickness.
I have now put a better tip on my soldering iron,. This gives me a smaller amount of solder on the tip to work with.
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Mast head radar and radio units
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Just a few hours away from the soldering iron for a change. Running down and trying to shape the radar units on the top platform
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Some more of the radio antennas made and fitted
Little tricky soldering pieces of brass the same thickness together then trying to solder join them together
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1. The hull has been cleared out of the battery tray and Rx box to make it possible to get as much ballast lead down in between the frames. As low as I can get it.
2. Parts to assemble the radar dome that sit on top of the bridge roof
3. 4. Views of the dome assembled before spraying up. Decided to use wood this time back to roots kinda of a thing
Now that I have looked at the dome on Mayhem I think the little brass pins are a wee bit out of scale . Probably change them to 0.4 mm wire.
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Radar Dome finish and sprayed up offered into position. Changed the nails to more scale looking 0.4mm brass wire
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Its looking good my mate KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK! Dont forget to check the ballast.
aye
john
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Cheers mate hopefully I'll finish the mast next week was waiting for BA washers coming from ebay. Plenty room for ballast now in the lower parts of the hull. Once mast is fitted and all the deck furniture. I'll ballast the model in the kiddies paddling pool
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1. Parts cut for assembly of the navigation lights structure.
2. On the plan build.
3. The two arms ready to be soldered together then soldered to the 1st platform.
Will be using coloured LEDs as the lights
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That certainly looks great!
Another very inspiring build log from which viewers can learn quite a lot, these are the real useful and great to watch build logs!
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse
Thanks mate its the problem of trying to solder brass of different thickness that is hard . You get a lot of solder on the job. But reading up on the net there are cleaners and I'll use my solder wick and sucker to do the final reword.
The navigation lights gantry offered into position and a final trim soldered into position when the LEDs come from EBay
I am looking at using Bakers Fluid next time for soldering as there gets a lot of build up of flux on the joints.
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Looking good Martin
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Hi Seaspray,
This soldering job of the signal mast really looks extremely unnerving to me, and I congratulate you to your patience and the result you achieved thanks to it.
Did you use an ordinary soldering iron from a controllable station?
What power / temperature did you apply to get all those bars and spars connected without loosening already soldered joints?
Regards,
Ralph
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Hi Riggers 24
Nice to hear from you shame I missed you when I went to see John with the Meteor. Hopefully, the build will be finished mid July and will be over to see John for its maiden voyage. I sincerely hope your there to thank you in person.
Ralph
As you can see from some of the pictures I used the temperature control station N78AR see link I bought from Maplins (U.K.). years ago also the 3 piece spare solder bits N79AR again Maplins and the flux from B & Q . At times I had to use a lot of heat sinks to loose the heat which may affect previous soldered joints. Temperature is just a case of trial and error by adjustment of heat and the correct bit used.. At times it had been a pain to do. Hence the time it has taken
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50-w-solder-station-n78ar (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50-w-solder-station-n78ar)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50w-solder-station-additional-solder-tips-n79ar (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50w-solder-station-additional-solder-tips-n79ar)
http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pid_27895/581130/Fernox-Powerflow-Flux-100g-20437.aspx?agid=586&gclid=CJGE4-aDjr8CFejHtAodqSMAVg (http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pid_27895/581130/Fernox-Powerflow-Flux-100g-20437.aspx?agid=586&gclid=CJGE4-aDjr8CFejHtAodqSMAVg).
The solder is some 10 year old stuff from I job I had years ago
Cheers all
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Beautiful job, borders on jewelry
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Hi admiralbb62
I wish but thanks all the same.
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Well done Seaspray..... a lot of patience required there :-))
I find plain steel wool [not the soaped version] and Bakers flux & gas as the best combination....plus holding 1/16" wire in pin vices when cleaning/polishing the ends
Even the natural oils from our hands >>:-( is enough to disturb the fluxing effect .........Derek
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Hi Derekwarner
I did consider gas but felt that the heat from it would travel. Some of the jobs are close to other solder joints. I've heard of people submerging the other solder joints under water as a heat sink leaving the joint to solder above. I'll stick to crocodile clips and copper wire as heat sinks. I know about the old finger prints on solder joints from experience of bad joints years ago. I've a small piece of hard metal shaped like a chisel I use to clean things The idea of making another one for a pin vice sounds good. Some of the areas to clean are in tight places
Anyway onward and upward now started the support for 5 navigation lights on the starboard leg of the mast.
Sorry I took so long to answer I am not always on the Mayhem site
I
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You are doing well Seaspray O0......you will have seen a few additional comments in my response PM :}
I am certainly doing nothing matching the complexity & closeness of your soldered joints on 1/16"material but agree it's all a matter of ....
1. heat sinking
2. jigging & pinning of pre soldered joints with 5 layers of aluminium foil on wood prior to the next joint to be soldered
3. pre tinning of component wires.....repositioning, refluxing & a gentle wave of heat will refuse the pre soldered components
4. jigging as per point 2.........then applying a little gas flame directly at the joint & then using a solder puffer/sucker can reduce the mass of solder at a joint
We have a member here on MBM.....George G from Canada........ I think he is one of the best proponents of soft soldering brass in model building that I have seen
Keep the images coming..............Derek
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Ready to spray up the mast tomorrow
cheers
Derek
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Today I looked at the mast and found a lot of verdigris. Did a trawl of old threads on here. Came across a question asked Colin Bishop about this subject. One of the things suggested was ketchup so I had a go with it. After a little brush over the parts then let it settle for ten minutes. Then a good run under the hot water tap it had gone.
Now I'll sprayed the mast tomorrow.
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Mast sprayed to day in white primer. Still details of other colours to do. Also six navigation lights to fit I have fitted two long pieces of wire in the roof of the little deck it sits on. When finished detailing the mast will glue into final position.
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Hello Martin,
Excellent, very well done filigree job.
Regards,
Ralph
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Wow, nice work!! :o
Hama
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Hi Ralph
Better pictures for you small garden hence the rubbish bin no its not going there. Its into going into a display case, cheers.
Hi Hams
cheers appreciated
Note the mast is not sitting fully on it's anchor pins so it is a little off the square.
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Very stark in white Seaspray ...but an excellently detailed construction :-))...you could never achieved such crispness & strength in plastic
Moderated
Just for interest, what is the aerial mast total weight?
Derek
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hi ya
Moderated
Martin, my mate, that is one hell of an achievement my mate, it looks brilliant. I look forward to seeing pics of this model on the water. It looks brilliant.
aye
john
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Hi Martin,
Moderated
The mast put in place on the signal deck looks stunning.
Do you intend to leave it removable and don't glue it on the deck (e.g. to ease damage free transport)?
If so, how will you secure it?
Ralph
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...... could you not wait like we all do and see if there are some small navigation lights to go on the end - which I feel there will be - no need to point it out to make it look as though it was an error.
aye - we all watch to see what comes next on the build.
aye
john
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My support for this build if you care to read %) has been totally supportive & constructive :-))
Derek
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Well Derek me last say on this subject - but when you circle something in RED as you often do - it often reminds me of a teacher encircling a spelling mistake - and although I am sure this may be unintentional - but it is such a small oversight/item to be seen one must have been looking very closely to pick it out.
Generally when I look at anyone's builds I never look for faults/mistakes - I always look beyond that and look as to how the person achieved it/method used. That interests me a lot more as one can learn a lot more from it.
No hard feelings - keep on modelling :-)) :-))
aye
john
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Derek
52 grams sprayed and everything fitted. It is tail heavy which suits me as it lets me put more ballast up front at the bottom of the hull. The navigation lights are now fitted see next replies. Mast will be sprayed in the correct type of Lacquer at the mo its a base coat.
Ralph
The mast will be permanent glued in place. Long brass pins running at an angle under the small platform to give a lock in position situation With 1/4 inch 2-3 mm sticking out to glue the mast to.
John
You be more than see it in the water you'll be first captain. Me I would probably be excited to have a go
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Navigation lights build
1 Hand drill a hole to slide the support into light
2. Flatten off end square and file down near to the hole. Drilling hole last causes problems cause of the thickness of the part.
3 & 4 . Centre part of light. Cut off to size. This is just a about right thickness.
5. LED in vice for cutting. Just saw it above where the element stops
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1 The Navigation light (a little sanding to loose the gap between LED and centre part)
2. From the front the lights glue in position
3. And from the rear
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As you can see....the Moderators have stepped in here
Even my posting was "moderated".
This really amazes me because I cannot remember that I had written anything that was worth being censored.
Well, I admit that probably everything I have written in this forum so far is worth being deleted altogether. But that's another issue.
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Great work!!!
I saved the photo's and text to my computer to use as a tutorial for when I need to make navigation lights for my model as well, great to see how you do this!
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse
I should have been thinking earlier I could have used round clear plastic for the other lights. Many thanks.
I did the same with Bluebird's master builds, then put them to PDF file on a DVD
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O.k. mast glued to the boat and the ladder, radar dome fitted.
The aft leg has a L shaped brass pin secured under the deck with P38
Note if your sawing LEDs do wear a mask as it has cause me a little cough
Taking a small break now, next time you see the model I'll be ballasting her.
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A few things to do before ballasting
The Ram and the other working parts fitted changed the ESC leads to Tamiya ones I like to crimp and then solder battery leads. Charging up the batteries and oiled the prop shaft.
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The build is now finished. Thanks to all who has given me help.
1. The templates to cut the lead ballast part to fit in their sections between the frames to keep the C 0f G low as possible.
2. Lead parts fitted some places have 2 of 3 layers of lead ballast. Battery placed to aid ballasting. All the lead ballast and the battery are temporary tack in position in case they need altered when on the water.
3 ,4. A shove over to Port to see if the model would right herself. It perfectly up righted and was spot on. Same for Starboard side again perfect upright.
5. Sitting upright and straight after the water settled.
6. Power check nice flow of water from the model's 4 blade prop at 1/4 stick on the Rx.
7 Job done, thanks again to all who gave a help in my build.
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well my friend Martin, if we turn back the clock about 10 year ago when you first spoke to me, I recall you saying you wanted to build this model - you had very little scratch building experience - you had no idea where to start on the model and that what you would like to produce is a model to the best of your ability you wanted it to look/be as close as you could get to the plastic kit that you have.
Well I do hope you can sit back now, look at the absolute marvelous job that you have done of this model and its all been achieved by yourself.
Well done my friend.
aye
John
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Thanks John its been a long road 10 years and thanks for all the help. I'd have been stuck without . I have all the frames, build pics and the 2 DVDs I got from the captain stored.
I will be arranging with the sis to get over soon to let you see the finished model for yourself and meet Marc Hopefully we'll manage an hour on the water. I will be putting a video on the end of this thread in the near future.
Again many thanks to the members and model suppliers for their help over the years
Martin
.
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I would like to thank you for making this great build log. I've been amazed of what can be done using wood and brass.
Very inspiring. Looking forward to the video!
All the best!
Hama
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Cheers Hama
Martin
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Stumbled across this piece of wood I've been hoarding for years and thought I would put it to good use.
Looks good on the boat's stand.
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Just came across some card assembly of containers and waiting on spares to continue with the Scotia I had ago at building one.
The scale is OO at 4mm to a 1 foot not too far away from 1/74
Its card templates from a print out from the computer. Then cut to size glued together with paper or PVA glue. As a first go at this type of assembly I can see where I need to improve by the close up pics. I will use plasticard next time and work on having my own templates correctly sized. May go all the road and paint/spay then instead of using paper print offs
Here is the site, although there is probably other or free sites. More a train hobbyist site
http://www.scalescenes.com/
Pictures of on going build and on the work deck
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Beautiful model, and I really enjoyed the build log. Very impressive.
A neat trick we used to do building cardstock structures for model railroads is to emboss the card first for a corrugated metal appearance. Very easy to do, the hardest part was finding the right mold. If you find something like the lid to a peanut butter jar, with plastic corrugations, maybe slightly bigger than your finished piece, tape your cardstock good side in over this (don't worry about the curve, it is not an issue) with drafting tape, or masking tape. Run a pen up each corrugation. Peel off, trim to size, make your bends, and glue together. Foil backed paper, like they use for the bags inside some cardboard boxes of food, gives a very nice metallic finish as well.
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CyberBOB
It was just a little kit I came across to fill time till the dremel was repaired as I need it to cut fibreglass on the Scotia hull.
I think there might be corrugation plasticard sheets available here in U.K.
Will soon be putting up the Scotia build hope you'll all like that one
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There is corrugated plasticard - at least in Canada, in multiple scales. It looks great, too. Just thought the embossing might be something to play with, as you already had the card stock kit.
Look forward to following your new build!
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Maiden voyage today looked good with no problems
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Looks great. Looks like she handles well also. Bravo Zulu.
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Yes no problem especially hard to Port and then hard to Starboard
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Just a final few pictures to complete the build.
Stripped down the model to see if anything a miss. No problems and no water in hull and a DVD copy of the build to look over from time to time
Now its on with the Fisheries Research Vessel Scotia