Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: profesorul on February 06, 2014, 09:47:51 am
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HELLO ALL , :-)
Be ADVICE : Is gonna be a very long thread so PLEASE have patience !
I know it's been don but that's way I gut courage and start these project , knowing I can get some help/tips/trick in order do not repeat same mistakes .What do You think ?. ;)
Earlier this week I took courage and I start working on these project .
That is a LOS ANGELES submarine bought it from someone on the forum .
Be ADVICE : Is gonna be a very long thread so PLEASE have patience !
Earlier this week I took courage and I start working on these project .
That is a LOS ANGELES submarine bought it from someone on the forum .
- I started with rudders depth as required for the large volume of Sisyphus work ....
- after many, many hours of sanding an file I managed to do what you can see in the pictures...
HOW TO FIX :
1) file until get same length?
2) fill until get same length ?
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/differ12.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=92&u=16901289)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/differ13.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=93&u=16901289)
- then continued with bow rudders ....NO problems here ,
- with tower is another story and I have some questions about the place to put axis for Bow Rudders ....( see pictures )
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/ax11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=90&u=16901289)
- I do not know what those two parts are and which should be put it ( see pictures )
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/corect11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=91&u=16901289)
and the last question from these series :
1) what are those holes and witch should be drilled ( I think some of them should be don do the captive air !)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/holes11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=94&u=16901289)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/dive_r11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=97&u=16901289)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/stern_10.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=96&u=16901289)
OK for now,
THANK YOU
MARIUS
- I started with rudders depth as required for the large volume of Sisyphus work ....
- after many, many hours of sanding an file I managed to do what you can see in the pictures...
HOW TO FIX :
1) file until get same length?
2) fill until get same length ?
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/differ12.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=92&u=16901289)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/differ13.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=93&u=16901289)
- then continued with bow rudders ....NO problems here ,
- with tower is another story and I have some questions about the place to put axis for Bow Rudders ....( see pictures )
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/ax11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=90&u=16901289)
- I do not know what those two parts are and which should be put it ( see pictures )
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/corect11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=91&u=16901289)
and the last question from these series :
1) what are those holes and witch should be drilled ( I think some of them should be don do the captive air !)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/holes11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=94&u=16901289)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/dive_r11.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=97&u=16901289)
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/90/12/89/stern_10.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=96&u=16901289)
OK for now,
THANK YOU
MARIUS
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:-)
For the moment all I have is these :
(http://s3.postimg.org/slz3g8627/IMG_0235.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/slz3g8627/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/cp0bjidnz/IMG_0236.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/cp0bjidnz/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/6pckfusvj/IMG_0237.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6pckfusvj/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/7t1a5k2wf/IMG_0238.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7t1a5k2wf/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/u8ob1gi3z/WTC_Arangement.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/u8ob1gi3z/)
- any suggestion about Reliable Speed Controller ......Fail Safe devices and what else should be ?
- the RC is FUTABA 6EXP - 6 channels (4 + 2 ) ,40MHz .
I know is an very old model but that's gonna be do the small budget (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Cam on don't be shy ! ;)
MARIUS
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Any 40mhz rado set will see you through. Well worth getting a computerised set for ease of setting up and adjustments at the pond. I would lean to a synthesised set but I spree irate these cost a little more - but keep an eye out on eBay, both Graupner and Multiplex did cheap Synt sets.
I would go with a pitch controller from MicroGyros http://www.microgyros.com/index.html (http://www.microgyros.com/index.html) and their speed controller are great too.
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Any 40mhz rado set will see you through. Well worth getting a computerised set for ease of setting up and adjustments at the pond. I would lean to a synthesised set but I spree irate these cost a little more - but keep an eye out on eBay, both Graupner and Multiplex did cheap Synt sets.
I would go with a pitch controller from MicroGyros http://www.microgyros.com/index.html (http://www.microgyros.com/index.html) and their speed controller are great too.
THANK YOU @Mankster
1) I want to see it finished first and with time I'm thinking to buy a new RC station ,
2) what actualy do a pitch controller on a sub ?
MARIUS
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Hi Marius!
1. Did the kit come with planes or instructions?
2. Stern stabilisers and dive planes: could the gap be for movement clearance?
3. Sail opening...
(http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/navy/docs/scmp/a-06.gif)
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THANK YOU @Mankster
1) I want to see it finished first and with time I'm thinking to buy a new RC station ,
2) what actualy do a pitch controller on a sub ?
MARIUS
Well it controls the rear planes for you so your sub runs level under water, kid of like how a gyro on a rc helicopter keeps it flying stright.
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More sail info: http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4621
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I answered some of your questions on another forum. You can get by without a leveller/pitch controller, as funds are tight.
The slower and more stable the model is the less you need one. Think of it as the icing on the cake.
Looks like you're a considerable way off needing electrickery yet, and I would concentrate on the mechanical aspects of the build.
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I would add styrene sheet, vertically to the ends of your hydroplanes as shown, use a thick, high viscosity cyanoacrylate for this. Cut the styrene parts oversize, then when fully cured, file to match the rest of the hydroplane. leave enough play to allow the planes to move without binding though.
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Hi Marius!
1. Did the kit come with planes or instructions?
I bought ONLY the HULL and what it's shown in the pictures
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I answered some of your questions on another forum. You can get by without a leveller/pitch controller, as funds are tight.
The slower and more stable the model is the less you need one. Think of it as the icing on the cake.
Looks like you're a considerable way off needing electrickery yet, and I would concentrate on the mechanical aspects of the build.
Yes these is my intention for the moment ! :-)
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I would add styrene sheet, vertically to the ends of your hydroplanes as shown, use a thick, high viscosity cyanoacrylate for this. Cut the styrene parts oversize, then when fully cured, file to match the rest of the hydroplane. leave enough play to allow the planes to move without binding though.
- I was thinking to so but I need another opinion , because someone who is not involved seen better from outside
MARIUS
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And some pictures with Hull and Motor Dimensions :
(http://s19.postimg.org/odrll4sar/HULL_Dimensions.jpg)(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/[url=http://postimage.org/image/hnb4bp54v/]http://s19.postimage.org/hnb4bp54v/HULL_Dimensions.jpg[/url])
(http://s19.postimage.org/d2oxwrlfj/IMG_0254.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d2oxwrlfj/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/trqdsoi0v/IMG_0255.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/trqdsoi0v/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/pwrl3uo8v/IMG_0256.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pwrl3uo8v/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/o68k2d6pr/IMG_0257.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o68k2d6pr/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/nur3plq9r/MOTOR_Dimensions.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nur3plq9r/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/arvh6c01r/MOTOR_Dimensions_0.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/arvh6c01r/)
MARIUS
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QUESTIONS:
1) I found these Water Pump on eBay (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ4MVgxNjAw/z/EP8AAOxyhotSNjqG/$T2eC16N,!)UFIbt1zrUkBSNjqGGgQQ~~60_35.JPG)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-E...#ht_1961wt_867 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-Electric-6v-12v-rc-model-boat-Robbe-p-/120777343795#ht_1961wt_867)
can be used to Fill/Empty a ballast tank for my LA sub ?.....is necessary to have a speed controller for it?.....how about the price/seller?.
My intention is to buy 2 pieces , one for these project and one for spare for another project .
2) how to make the propeller shaft be parallel to axis of the submarine ?.....what usual method can be applied for these operation ?
THANK YOU
MARIUS (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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(http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif) HI ,
To day I am very glad because I did some progress on the project.I know is NOT very much but when You don't have SPARE time at all and Your work shop is the kitchen and work bench is kitchen table - IF YOU GET THE PERMISSION from "MASTER CHEF" my WIFE !!! (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif) is A PROGRESS .
Couple days a go I glued a piece of PVC sheet on both Dive Planes . I din't have to file them to shape .
(http://s14.postimg.org/j5699pz2l/IMG_0271.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j5699pz2l/)
(http://s14.postimg.org/yrxin3cul/IMG_0272.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/yrxin3cul/)
(http://s14.postimg.org/cijlgjhe5/IMG_0273.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/cijlgjhe5/)
Yesterday and to day I did the Motor mount from a small piece of aluminum sheet .
It was necessary to Drill , cut , tap , file .
Doesn't look much but I keep the tools in to a small crowded closet , some of them on balcony , where is my lathe too !!! . (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
When I tray to do something it need 30min to get the tool down and another 30min - 40min to clean the work place .
I told You all these to see way is gonna be a very long thread plus the "dam found" always missing !.
(http://s3.postimg.org/t54a0ku67/IMG_0291.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/t54a0ku67/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/l0w5vu7r3/IMG_0292.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/l0w5vu7r3/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/sjfb4gz3z/IMG_0293.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sjfb4gz3z/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/56h9lyj0f/IMG_0294.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/56h9lyj0f/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/ful0ksszj/IMG_0295.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ful0ksszj/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/j2phxuf9b/IMG_0296.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j2phxuf9b/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/l8jsscipr/IMG_0297.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/l8jsscipr/)
See You soon I HOPE .
All the Best
MARIUS
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QUESTIONS:
1) I found these Water Pump on eBay (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ4MVgxNjAw/z/EP8AAOxyhotSNjqG/$T2eC16N,!)UFIbt1zrUkBSNjqGGgQQ~~60_35.JPG)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-E...#ht_1961wt_867 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-Electric-6v-12v-rc-model-boat-Robbe-p-/120777343795#ht_1961wt_867)
can be used to Fill/Empty a ballast tank for my LA sub ?.....is necessary to have a speed controller for it?.....how about the price/seller?.
My intention is to buy 2 pieces , one for these project and one for spare for another project .
2) how to make the propeller shaft be parallel to axis of the submarine ?.....what usual method can be applied for these operation ?
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Marius...
1. yes the Robbe pump is a true gear pump & is continuously rated [when pumping fluid].......but current draw on 6 volt is far more acceptable than on 12 volt....check a Robbe data sheet
2. your current L shaped motor mounting bracket will be subject to flexing........you should consider a mounting that attaches to the motor headcap & secured by the two M? tappings.....yes you may need to also consider air draft in the mounting bracket
With respect to maintaining alignment...........after the motor is mounted securely, install a temporary dummy shaft coupling between the motor shaft and the propeller shaft....this will then enable the propeller shaft to be secured so it looks like this
[motor]-[dummy shaft coupling]-------------------[prop shaft bearing]---------------------------------[prop shaft bearing]-[propeller]
Only after you have achieved this, can the temporary dummy shaft coupling be removed and a resilient coupling be fitted...............
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
1st image is another view of a Robbe pump
2nd image is your current motor mounting
3rd image are the two M? tappings in the motor headcap
good luck.........Derek
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HI DEREK ,
"Marius...
"1. yes the Robbe pump is a true gear pump & is continuously rated [when pumping fluid].......but current draw on 6 volt is far more acceptable than on 12 volt....check a Robbe data sheet"
Is perfect becouse I have a 6V Pb Ac battery - see may first post with components ,
"2. your current L shaped motor mounting bracket will be subject to flexing........you should consider a mounting that attaches to the motor headcap & secured by the two M? tappings.....yes you may need to also consider air draft in the mounting bracket
With respect to maintaining alignment...........after the motor is mounted securely, install a temporary dummy shaft coupling between the motor shaft and the propeller shaft....this will then enable the propeller shaft to be secured so it looks like this
[motor]-[dummy shaft coupling]-------------------[prop shaft bearing]---------------------------------[prop shaft bearing]-[propeller]
Only after you have achieved this, can the temporary dummy shaft coupling be removed and a resilient coupling be fitted.....""
Can You make a sketch with "motor]-[dummy shaft coupling]-------------------[prop shaft bearing]---------------------------------[prop shaft bearing]-[propeller]" or if You have some pictures will be much better O0
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
"3rd image are the two M? tappings in the motor headcap"
I all ready used those 2 x M4 holes and are the only way to secure the motor on something .
"good luck.........Derek"
THANK for sharing your knowledge . These is what defines a Community . O0
REGADS
MARIUS
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HI ,
Regarding some Advices (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif) I did some Work on NEW Motor Mount , and these is the Result:
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HI GUYS , (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I did some work to day. Is not exactly " a piece of art" but is Hand Made , my HANDS ! so is perfect . I am joking of course . If there are some aspect witch can be improved be Free to tel me .
What I did today is actually 2 small bronze pieces , for rods control of rudders and dive planes . (I KNOW here is not quite Good English Grammatic (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif) !!!).
(http://s19.postimg.org/e3akozpdr/01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/e3akozpdr/) (http://s19.postimg.org/lkjs47ewv/02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lkjs47ewv/) (http://s19.postimg.org/jh9cwjf3z/03_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jh9cwjf3z/) (http://s19.postimg.org/86balwxmn/04_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/86balwxmn/) (http://s19.postimg.org/7utu95h6n/05_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7utu95h6n/)
All The Best and CLEAR WATERS
MARIUS
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HI there ,
I did some progress to day . I made the propeller shaft house . I don't know if is going to be the final , that's hard to say now . Wheel shall see . Any way these cames out after a 3 - 4 hours of hard work (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif) . Way take so much , is because I was going in just 0,010mm too MUCH (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif) and the Ball Bearing wasn't going as is should be . You now what I mean .(http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif) I HAVE MY LIMITS !!!. I don't have the skills and the technick to do that kind of work from the first time . On the 3rd TIME It was Good Anough to give hem a shot .
Any tips/tricks/ would be great for those kind of operation in a very close future .
(http://s27.postimg.org/82wuiumv3/01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/82wuiumv3/)...A = Hight for the Ball Bearing ; B = hight for the Simmering . You can see way was a Little difficult to succeed from the first tray .
(http://s27.postimg.org/gmg8glv7j/02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gmg8glv7j/)
(http://s27.postimg.org/493e9p5j3/03_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/493e9p5j3/)
All the Best and CLEAR WATERS
MARIUS
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Could you not simplify things a bit by perhaps mounting the seal and bearing inside the endcap. If you choose a bearing with the same outside diameter as the seal, a straight bore through the middle of the cap would be sufficient.
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HI @Subculture :-)
It was my intention at the beginning but I couldn't find ball bearing and simmering with the same diameter , and I was looking for them more than worth it .
Second I'm NOT so good as skills level to do how you sad and my mini lathe is not very accurate , and If I would made even the smallest mistake I can ruin my WTC end cap <:( . And that's NOT acceptably <*< , as costs and most of all it was a PURE LUCK to find such big diameter material in my country .It was actualy a "second hand" spare material on a "blak market" , even so the cost was HUGE . >:-o .
I prefere to ruin cheapest materials as resin , witch I can cast as many times I want to close diameter .
And these is the result of my work untill now:
(http://s27.postimg.org/j76p08tj3/WTC_Propeller_Shaft_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j76p08tj3/)
(http://s27.postimg.org/o74586z5r/WTC_Propeller_Shaft_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/o74586z5r/)
(http://s27.postimg.org/53atrumbj/WTC_Propeller_Shaft_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/53atrumbj/)
MARIUS
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Hi ,
Some ultimate arangements for the Push Rods and Propeller Shaft Sealing :
(http://s19.postimg.org/ugv0rimgv/Push_Rodes_and_Small_Oring_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ugv0rimgv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/bd6aowz0f/Push_Rodes_and_Small_Oring_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/bd6aowz0f/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4nzr8wdof/Shaft_Seal_with_Oring_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4nzr8wdof/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/9b5tao11b/Wite_GREASE_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9b5tao11b/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ftu29unun/Final_Arangement_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ftu29unun/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/wivi5rkfz/Final_Arangement_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wivi5rkfz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/yopt09nwf/Final_Arangement_15_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/yopt09nwf/)
MARIUS
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Marius........black nitrile or clear silicone O-rings will compress & provide a water tight static in these model applications provided a few basic steps are followed
1. mating cavity dimensions are correct
2. surface finish acceptable
However <*< adding additional liquid silicone [Dow Corning type Silistic] is fraught with danger
3. liquid silicone will not adhere to nitrile or cured silicone O-rings...or to brass surfaces...or the white synthetic martial that you large disks are machined from
4. during the tightening or compression of the joint the liquid silistic will be displaced
5. you could consider drilling a large angular chamfer in the large discs.........to suit the O-rings & as they are tightened they will seal in the chamfer without the need for any additional sealant
Much better to reconsider options now than to wait until your first immersion trial.........& find it is not water tight......Derek
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HI DEREK,
THANK YOU so much for all the information . :-)) .
Answer:
1) and 2)check ;
Question:
"liquid silicone " is 2 component material witch HAD to be cast ?.
Where can be bought in UK or Europe ?. Any similar material ?. Do you have a picture with what You use?.
You say is necessary to cast these silicone BETWEEN the Ball Bearing and the SIMMERING INSIDE of SHAFT guide ?
... or GUEST these silicon WITH OUT ANYTHING ELSE ?.
(http://s19.postimg.org/4e1fh1dtr/WTC_Propeller_Shaft_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4e1fh1dtr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/dzuzxc4zj/WTC_Propeller_Shaft_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/dzuzxc4zj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/lh47cjuin/WTC_Propeller_Shaft_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lh47cjuin/)
....or can be cast in some mold , very close as shape with the future "house" ? and then used as SEALANT .
Personal remark:
Those SIMMERING - like I used , are Used for all type of applications and they are used even for extreme high speed rotations of the ax (washing machine ; Deep extraction water pumps ; etc) and in our case we talk about couple hundreds rpm and for 20-30min . But is good to know we can improve/avoid any problems using these silicone . Thanks again .
MARIUS
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Hullo Marius.......
1. the image below indicates a 45 degree chamfer for the o-ring cavity........you can simply drill these into the hull tube plates...just make sure the 45 degree surface is smooth
this is what I have previously suggested
2. forget any form of silicone >>:-(........it is rubbish in your build........ O0
3. let the O-rings seal.........that is what they are designed to do....... :-))..........Derek
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OK , now I get it .
I see what You mean . :-))
That's way thay say "picture makes a 1000 words" . O0
THANK You .
MARIUS
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Little Work to day : O0 . I was working ALMOST 4Hours but at the end I BROKE 2 pieces >>:-( , and the big one waFIRSTTS as Test . But I have learned from these experience and I wheel make them again .
(http://s19.postimg.org/ycc6zb9rz/Rodes_SUPPORT_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ycc6zb9rz/)
How is it cold these SMALL Black piece?
(http://s19.postimg.org/pvcooe533/Rodes_SUPPORT_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pvcooe533/)
How is it cold these BRONZE Piece I made ?
(http://s19.postimg.org/uveqa303j/Rodes_SUPPORT_15_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uveqa303j/)
Where I can get those SMALL Black piece , 3mm ; 4mm ; 5mm inside Diameter ?.
All the Best and CLEAR WATERS
MARIUS
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"Where I can get those SMALL Black piece , 3mm ; 4mm ; 5mm inside Diameter ?" ask Marius
They are called E Clips........a cousin to a CirClip....any industrial ball bearing supplier will be able to help........
Having said that.....they should not break or fracture >>:-(...are you machining the E clip groove to the correct dimensions?.....
Take the sample to the bearing shop........as the actual sizing is to suit the shaft size............... Derek
Try this link to Anderton.......look for E Clips
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0CDIQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rotoprecision.ca%2Fproducts%2Fretaining_rings%2Fanderton%2F&ei=A6QsU4asOK2IiQfrqIGgBg&usg=AFQjCNHCxVc7pWyTfWr4jzWnlupaPjlHNw
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THANKS again DEREK . :-))
My ONLY PROBLEM is They DON'T SELL 10-20pieces what I need , only 1000 pieces or at least 150USD per ORDER !!! not to mention about the SHIPMENT Taxes.
So I have to find a RETAILER to buy them , in UK/France/Germany . and in small Packs 50pieces/10-15GBP .
For now I have Solved but is good to know if I need more where I can buy them .
All the Best and CLEAR WATERS
MARIUS
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HI ,
I got SOMETHING to day :-) :
Neodium Magnets , D= 5mm H= 10mm , 0.9KG pull force at the ends
(http://s19.postimg.org/5fkyrvm7z/Magneti_NEODIUM_D_5mm_L_10mm_0_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5fkyrvm7z/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/txd2frosf/Magneti_NEODIUM_D_5mm_L_10mm_1_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/txd2frosf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/55dg8j7lr/Magneti_NEODIUM_D_5mm_L_10mm_2_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/55dg8j7lr/)
Wheel see if there are so good as they say ok2
MARIUS
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Just don't put them in your shirt pocket if you have a heart pacemaker......... {-)....did you sign the MDDS [dangerous goods] data sheet?..........Derek
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HI DEREK
THANK GOOD I don't need a Peacemaker :-)) at least for the next 50YEARS {-) .
I DIDN'T sign anything ?!?!?! ....should I ?
P.S for those small O-rings with 6mm Diameter what Diameter has to be the shamfer ?.....8mm should be OK ?....and how deep in order to make his job ?
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46343.0;attach=134927;image)
MARIUS
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Good Evening ,
- I advanced a little bit with component arrangement in WTC ....
- I mounted on a speed controller and receiver a piece of Velcro , and on PVC bracket also.....
- I put thicker wires to the motor ....
- I don't know what connectors to use for coupling the motor with speed controller and for connecting the battery to the speed controller ....
- I have not forgotten either the fuse that protects the receiver or the main switch ,
- I am most interested about what capacity should have receiver battery power ..... now I have 4,8 V = 4x1, 2V/2100mA - NiMh Accumulators ...
- is enough to power the receiver? .....
- if yeah, that autonomy would be? ...
I have some questions :
- what methods are most commonly used to isolate the power supply wires from the battery when they enter in the WTC ? ;
- can I put Sealed Lead Acid battery terminals in the in water if it does not fit into the WTC ? ;
- not is discharged or is short circuit?
Pictures next days . To day batery is empty (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
MARIUS
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HI there , :-) I have a bag pressure from a device to measure blood pressure and has the dimensions from the picture ...... would be enough water volume for my sub ?
What are the most used methods to calculate what volume of water is needed ?
PLEASE I need these answer FAST in order to buy the necessary length of the Acrylic Tube . :-))
(http://s19.postimg.org/sufx0in27/Future_Balast_Tank_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sufx0in27/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6wjg6q81r/IMG_0331.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6wjg6q81r/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/5irtbf8sf/IMG_0333.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5irtbf8sf/)
All the Best and CLEAR WATERS
MARIUS
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The submarine pushes away XX liters of water, and it weighs YY kilograms.
When the submarine dives below the water, these numbers equals each other rather well. Due to 1L~1Kg.
Basic stuff.
The thing is though, that every lite piece above the waterline when not submerged (the tower, hull, flag poles..) must be compensated with water in the ballast-system. When you have compensated for the not submerged stage, and the sub is in neutral buoyancy not much water is needed to get it down under water. (Can someone back me up on this? Not sure if I described it well)
:D
So if lets say All your stuff above water weighs 1kg, you need 1 liter extra in the tanks.
-
:-))
THANK YOU @SwedishProjectBuilder .
I think is NOT going to be enough what I have {:-{
MARIUS
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Bags, rubbers and balloons -- and their associated pumps, solenoids, and other plumbing fixtures -- are notorious space wasters within the WTC. R/c submarines that employ dry or wet bags often are unable to achieve the vehicles designed waterline in surface trim. Why? Because of all of the space taken up by such a ballast sub-system items; little is dedicated to the retention of ballast water. The ballast water volume/sub-system component volume ratio is low.
Maximum ballast tank volume for the least sub-system footprint is the gas-system: A dedicated full-use ballast tank, a gas reservoir, a servo to operate a simple vent and blow valve, and you're done. Ballast water volume/sub-system component volume ratio is very high.
RCABS and the like are a fools-errand. Why give up all that unused space to a crumpled piece of elastic and associated gadgets when that lost space can be used to house additional ballast water?
Here's another option for you to consider: http://support.caswellplating.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/363/23/the-sas-system---how-it-works (http://support.caswellplating.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/363/23/the-sas-system---how-it-works)
David
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THANK YOU DAVID :-)) ,
I didn't consider these system suitable for me because I am at the first steps "on these road" , and it looks complicated for me at least at these stage of my knowledge .
Was simple to understand the system : servo-left/right switch-pump {:-{ .
If I will understand Your suggested System I am willing to tray . :-)
Do you think You can guide me where should I look for more Information/PICTURES ?.
MARIUS
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:-))
THANK YOU @SwedishProjectBuilder .
I think is NOT going to be enough what I have {:-{
No problem, I'm just glad to be able to help out.
As Merriman stated, the gas-system is probably the most volume saving option.
I myself have built my own piston tanks, but I wouldn't recommend it. They too take a lot of volume. Though I'm having thoughts on constructing piston tanks which don't have a long rod sticking out of it. But, tarts just thoughts for now. What I would like to do is constructing a submarine with several ballast tanks, all controlled from one gas tank. Integrated with some kind of regulator. Then it would be possible to make a "real" submarine with the ballast tanks surrounding the inner hull.
(http://s17.postimg.org/631vg89gb/Submarine_works.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/631vg89gb/)
Picture from: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gOOthpwdIyc/UdLpTd_KyoI/AAAAAAAAAkU/2LQOvO06qC0/s1118/Submarine+works.jpg
:}
Cheers!
-
Do you think You can guide me where should I look for more Information/PICTURES ?.
MARIUS
Check out Davids thread: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,33589.275.html
To begin with.
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Are you a member of the Sub Committee, Marius?
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@Subculture
Far as I know "I DON'T". {:-{ .
"Sub Committee" is anotherr thing from "Sub Committee.com Forum" ?, because here I have an account . {:-{
THANK YOU both for Your Efforts :-) :-))
MARIUS
P.S between posts I make some work on these servo mount:
(http://s19.postimg.org/5wt5b0svz/Servo_mount_Switch_01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5wt5b0svz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/82ng5iwcf/Servo_mount_Switch_02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/82ng5iwcf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/9vqctuhj3/Servo_mount_Switch_03_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9vqctuhj3/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/pihm77vb3/Servo_mount_Switch_04_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pihm77vb3/)
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@Subculture
Far as I know "I DON'T". (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/Smileys/Tug/undecided1.gif) .
"Sub Committee" is anotherr thing from "Sub Committee.com Forum" ?, because here I have an account . (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/Smileys/Tug/undecided1.gif)
SORRY @Subculture I did a mistake , my account is on "Sub Driver.com Forum"
MARIUS
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I see. Are you aware that as a paid member ($15) you can access the full back issue library of the Sub Committee Report. That's almost 25 years of magazines, where there is a wealth of information with answers to the questions you are asking plus a whole lot more.
Works out at 15 cents an issue, which is a heck of a deal.
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So if lets say All your stuff above water weighs 1kg, you need 1 liter extra in the tanks.
I need to correct myself. ^above is completely wrong. What I meant to say was:
"So if lets say All your stuff above water obtains 1liter of volume, you need 1 liter extra in the tanks."
For every volume of liter your submarine has above waterline when not submerged, in form of hull, tower, flagpoles, etc. That same amount of liter must first be taken in to the ballast tank before you reach neutral buoyancy. After that you don't need much more water to sink.
What I said was a bit wrong. It doesn't matter how much your sub weighs above waterline, assuming your submarine is afloat.
Very sorry for the wrong answer. Weird how no one corrected me. ;D
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I need to correct myself. ^above is completely wrong. What I meant to say was:
"So if lets say All your stuff above water obtains 1liter of volume, you need 1 liter extra in the tanks."
For every volume of liter your submarine has above waterline when not submerged, in form of hull, tower, flagpoles, etc. That same amount of liter must first be taken in to the ballast tank before you reach neutral buoyancy. After that you don't need much more water to sink.
What I said was a bit wrong. It doesn't matter how much your sub weighs above waterline, assuming your submarine is afloat.
Very sorry for the wrong answer. Weird how no one corrected me. ;D
I've made the same mistake on several occasions -- it took Andy to set me straight: it's the displacement, not the weight above waterline you have to counter with ballast water. The weight of the displaced water is the issue, not the weight of the structure.
Exception: If you establish the mean specific gravity of all the above waterline structures, you can take their collected weight and correlate that of the ballast water needed. Since the specific gravity of polystyrene (1. something) is a tad over that of water (1), then you know directly how much water you need in the ballast tank to get the boat up to the surface trim waterline. I add 10-15% as a fudge-factor to insure I have enough lift.
David
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Do remember that using high density materials e.g. metals like brass or tin plate above the waterline will impact the amount of buoyancy you require below the waterline, and also you need to watch you don't raise the c.g too much as this will adversely affect stability.
Glass and Kevlar composites are king in model submarine construction because they give the very best strength to thickness and weight ratios.
It's actually very difficult accurately calculate the required buoyancy for a submarine, especially when they employ wet hulls and use hand laid composite/GRP hulls. There will be some inconsistency in the thickness of the laminate, and also the style of laminate will affect the density of the composite e.g. a laminate consisting of two or three layers of polyester gelcoat, resin and chopped strand matt will be considerably less dense than an epoxy glass cloth laminate.
The only sure way to find out the tank size required is to put it together, get yourself a test tank, trim the boat to neutral buoyancy, then use blocks of polystyrene foam fastened below the waterline (you can make a cradle to hold these) to raise the boat to the intended surfaced waterline. Take the blocks off, and measure them to find out the volume, add them all together, tack on 10%, and that is your ballast tank volume.
As an educated guess, I would think your LA will need between 500-700ml of ballast tank volume, assuming all the dive module is below the surfaced waterline.
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HI :-)
I need to correct myself. ^above is completely wrong. What I meant to say was:
"So if lets say All your stuff above water obtains 1liter of volume, you need 1 liter extra in the tanks."
For every volume of liter your submarine has above waterline when not submerged, in form of hull, tower, flagpoles, etc. That same amount of liter must first be taken in to the ballast tank before you reach neutral buoyancy. After that you don't need much more water to sink.
What I said was a bit wrong. It doesn't matter how much your sub weighs above waterline, assuming your submarine is afloat.
Very sorry for the wrong answer. Weird how no one corrected me. ;D
OK , is NO problem EAT for me . ok2
DAVID
"I've made the same mistake on several occasions -- it took Andy to set me straight: it's the displacement, not the weight above waterline you have to counter with ballast water. The weight of the displaced water is the issue, not the weight of the structure.
Exception: If you establish the mean specific gravity of all the above waterline structures, you can take their collected weight and correlate that of the ballast water needed. Since the specific gravity of polystyrene (1. something) is a tad over that of water (1), then you know directly how much water you need in the ballast tank to get the boat up to the surface trim waterline. I add 10-15% as a fudge-factor to insure I have enough lift."
So let's see If I understand correctly:
- in order to know how much water I need in Ballast Tank I have to CALCULATE the Volume of ALL is ABOVE the Water Line ? .
- how about hes weight as a Sub , I mean If weight is, let's say 7,5 KG and the Volume of everything is on above the water line is 0,8KG I need a ballast tank with 8,5KG with those 10-15% ?
MARIUS
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.......I post twice :}
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....The only sure way to find out the tank size required is to put it together, get yourself a test tank, trim the boat to neutral buoyancy, then use blocks of polystyrene foam fastened below the waterline (you can make a cradle to hold these) to raise the boat to the intended surfaced waterline. Take the blocks off, and measure them to find out the volume, add them all together, tack on 10%, and that is your ballast tank volume.
As an educated guess, I would think your LA will need between 500-700ml of ballast tank volume, assuming all the dive module is below the surfaced waterline.
I have a CILINDER with 96mm Inside Diameter and 300mm in Lenght witch can be used for the balast tank .
MARIUS
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Almost there Marius! (Sorry I'm answering your previous question.)
As David says, it is the DISPLACEMENT (i.e. volume NOT weight) of the superstructure that has to equal the ballast water. (David suggests adding a 10-15% safety factor.)
If you want the theory it is the Archimedes principle.
The implications for design of subs is that you need to minimise the displacement of the superstructure. (That is why you need to go for thin and strong materials. I quite like tinplate - it is sheet steel after all!)
Superstructure weight is not important for ballast tank considerations but make it too heavy and your sub will roll over! There goes another design constraint!
David
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[size=78%]So let's see If I understand correctly:[/size]
- in order to know how much water I need in Ballast Tank I have to CALCULATE the Volume of ALL is ABOVE the Water Line ? .
- how about hes weight as a Sub , I mean If weight is, let's say 7,5 KG and the Volume of everything is on above the water line is 0,8KG I need a ballast tank with 8,5KG with those 10-15% ?
1. Yes, you can roughly calculate the volume above water. And that will correspond to the volume your tank must be able to take in + some more maybe 10%.
2.
Ballast and ballast tank is two separate things.
You have your submarine. If it weighs in total 10KG (EVERYTHING), you need 10 Liter of volume below the surface to keep it afloat.
(If the submarine is 10 Liter and your sub only weighs 5KG, you will need 5KG of ballast, for example lead.)
If the volume above surface is 1 Liter (an air filled Tower for example), your ballast tank will need to take in 1 Liter of water before the whole submarine is submerged (neutral buoyancy).
If the 0,8KG above waterline equals 0,8 Liter, you will need 0,8 x 1,15 Liter in your ballast tank.
The weight of everything "above water line" is only interesting if you know what the exact density of the material is.
Extreme example:
If you have 0,8KG of styrofoam above water you will need 0,8 x 1,15 x 50 Liter of water in your ballast tank. Because styrofoam roughly is 0,02KG/Liter.
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THANK YOU SO MUCH to ALL . :-))
I'm gonna need some time to Practice and study all of these for better understanding . :}
MARIUS
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I have a CILINDER with 96mm Inside Diameter and 300mm in Lenght witch can be used for the balast tank
The volume of that tank is over 1.7 litres. Whilst my previous estimate of 500-700ml was only a guess based on the size of the boat and scale waterline, I can say for definitely, that would be way too big for the model.
I take it you know how to calculate the volume of a cylindrical shape it's easy enough- pi*(radius squared)*length
Use centimetres rather than millimetres so in the case of your cylinder- 3.14*4.3^2*30= 1743 ml or 1.7 litres
-
OK. I have another cylinder :
Inside Diameter = 0,90cm
Height = 0.20cm
- witch means he can take 1L of water inside . :-)
Is perfect,at least for now.Wheel shall sea if is correct.
MARIUS
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Looking at your earlier pictures it looked to me like you are working with a ballast system based on a gear style water pump and a bag. The bag would be mounted inside the WTC and as the bag fills the air inside the cylinder is compressed. A pinch valve is necessary with this system to prevent water pushing out past the pump and ruining your trim.
This is very similar to the system used on the Thunder Tiger Neptune, although that boat uses a peristaltic pump, which is slower at pumping but self checking and thus doesn't require a pinch valve.
You can place the bag inside a smaller cylinder, this should be vented at the end caps to allow air to escape. the additional cylinder constricts the volume of the bag to the desired amount, also preventing it from chafing on internal fittings and keeps it in place.
A good rule of thumb is to ensure the ballast volume is about 10-15% of the internal volume of the WTC. This keeps the pressures raised inside the cylinder to fairly low pressures which relieves the strain on the shaft seals.
Clearly the WTC will need to be constructed to ensure that the end caps remain in place when pressurized. there are various ways of doing this, a very elegant way that Ron Perrott uses is to make the saddles in the sub hull overlap the endcaps slightly, so that the hull itself acts as a brace for the endcaps.
That's what I call elegant engineering- one item performing two tasks.
-
Looking at your earlier pictures it looked to me like you are working with a ballast system based on a gear style water pump and a bag. The bag would be mounted inside the WTC and as the bag fills the air inside the cylinder is compressed. A pinch valve is necessary with this system to prevent water pushing out past the pump and ruining your trim.
Yes,my intention was to use that pump with those bag BUT is NOT 100% sure I stick to the plan :} . I am thinking of using only pump to FILL/EMPTY a closed WTC ,that I mentioned earlier .
This is very similar to the system used on the Thunder Tiger Neptune, although that boat uses a peristaltic pump, which is slower at pumping but self checking and thus doesn't require a pinch valve.
Can You tell me please what is and what are the main types of " pinch valve"?.Some pictures/threads where to look for it.
You can place the bag inside a smaller cylinder, this should be vented at the end caps to allow air to escape. the additional cylinder constricts the volume of the bag to the desired amount, also preventing it from chafing on internal fittings and keeps it in place.
If I use a HOLE or another system to vent the WTC during the Filling operation WHEN I do the EMPTY operation the WATER is NOT GOING to be SUCKED inside the WTC,because is creating a vacuum ?
A good rule of thumb is to ensure the ballast volume is about 10-15% of the internal volume of the WTC. This keeps the pressures raised inside the cylinder to fairly low pressures which relieves the strain on the shaft seals.
Clearly the WTC will need to be constructed to ensure that the end caps remain in place when pressurized. there are various ways of doing this, a very elegant way that Ron Perrott uses is to make the saddles in the sub hull overlap the endcaps slightly, so that the hull itself acts as a brace for the endcaps.
I understand that and I can manage with securing the WTC caps.I am NOT familiar with RON PERROTT WORKS :(( .Do You have somesketchhdrawingss/pictures with his systems?
That's what I call elegant engineering- one item performing two tasks.
I did some small :} progress on Tower Sail:
(http://s19.postimg.org/sbtntl64f/Sail_Tower_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sbtntl64f/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6e1sdjghr/Sail_Tower_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6e1sdjghr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/aogg94lkv/Sail_Tower_15_1_SHAL_I_DRILL_these_too.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/aogg94lkv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4c1azaiin/Sail_Tower_CONECTOR_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4c1azaiin/)
What do You think ?.That last Hole should be drilled?.
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So are you looking at pumping water into a sealed hard ballast tank now?
That's a slightly different system which involves higher pressures. You will also need to add baffles to the tank.
-
Actually I don't think is going to be involved such pressure do the air is compressible {:-{ .
But I think is good to have a Safety Pressure System , a valve or something but NOT being decided eat what system I am going to use I am open to any possibility.
MARIUS
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You've lost me with that initial statement I'm afraid.
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SORY . Wasn't my intention . :}
What I mean to say is:
I did not decide EAT what version to use ..... for now I study and try to understand what it would be easier and more appropriate for this project .... what advantages and disadvantages are of each type .
I have so many things to do mean time so I am not worry for that matter .
One of my problem is , I don't have ANY DRAWING/PICTURE about what holes have to drill as SIZE/SHAPE/nr of them/WHERE should be don BOTH on Upper Hull and Lower Hull {:-{ .
If some one can point me where to look or has some DRAWING wheel be great . :-)
MARIUS
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As you are now a fully paid up member of the sub committee and can access the full back catalogue of magazines online, i would suggest having a look at a series of articles titled 'The laboratory' featured in issues 29, 30, 31, 32 and 37.
I think you will find the information in those articles very informative.
Sorry, I can't help with drawings of the LA class, it's not a boat that has ever appealed to me so I have never carried out any research into it.
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HELLO ,
I have some questions :
- what methods are YOU use to properly align rudders and dive planes axes from hull , and 90 degrees to one another ?
- how to make perpendicular holes for those axis to the hull ?
Some Pictures with any system wheel be Much appreciated . :-))
MARIUS
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HI , :-)
Is me again !.
Where did buy when you need bronze bushings? ...... some individual/company/sites anywhere? ..... but to sell small quantities of 5-10 units and be reliable ...... meaning someone might purchased and received goods required!. :}
I need some BUSHINGS for the Propeller shaft , at the aft and at the end of the shaft before the motor connection .
And If I find some reliable Place I'll take more for the further projects too .
MARIUS
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Norbert Bruggen will sell you bronze DU bushes in metric sizes from 3mm upwards. these are PTFE (telfon) and self lubricating dry and in water, really nice for sub use.
You can machine bushes from brass rod too, not as good as bronze perhaps, but good enough for model use provided you keep them greased/oiled.
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OK THANK YOU .
I found his Site but where are the Bushings ? .My GERMAN is limited to a couple words . {-)
Can You post a link for ?
If is not allowed here , can You send me by PM?.
MARIUS
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http://modelluboot.de/Zubehoer/Dichtungen.html#WDR
Scroll down to bottom of page.
My German is pretty much non-existent too. I find online translators help a great deal.
-
I've also got bearings off this chap.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEAD-TEFLON-5mm-bushings-4-off-rc-model-boat-FSRV-/120681581242?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c192ecaba
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THANK YOU , :-))
I wheel look for it . :-)
MARIUS
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Hi Marius,
You can make your own bushes more cheaply by buying a length of PTFE rod , drilling it and cutting bits off. A brass or stainless steel shaft runs with very little friction.
The problem with PTFE is sticking it to the hull (it is hard to use adhesives. ) However you can hold it with small self tapping screws or cut chunks out of the outside and mechanically trap it in the hole in the hull with adhesive (or resin in a fibreglass hull.)
Alignment etc. is tricky in the rounded hulls of submarines. But I know you are resourceful guy! You should find small spirit levels (little ones just a few mm long - available in DIY stores.) to be quite useful. You level up the whole hull and line up shafts with reference to that. I have also found a laser level (DIY stores sell them for leveling shelves) Avoid any of that nonsense and use them on submarines! Again start with the sub level and use the laser level like a very long ruler to line things up on the hull.
David
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THANK YOU DAVID
I wheel keep in mind Your recommendations .
MARIUS
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Guys....the problem here is understanding the % of potential water adsorption in the synthetic material
Nylon11 will adsorb 0.0002*^ of the initial SG * by diameter.....poly tetra fluoro ethylene has similar properties <*<
So you drill & ream a 4.00 mm diameter hole in a nylon/PTFE bush........
1. immerse in water for 24 hours & the hole closes to 3.982 mm O0!!
2. remove it from the water for 24 hour's & the bore returns to 4.00 mm
Derek
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HI DEREK
So what are you tray to tell us is : DON'T USE IT , unless you have no ather option ?
Any way What sub stays in the water 24H ?!?!?! , maybe 2 or 3 times a Year for 20-30 min !.
MARIUS
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Marius....here is an old posting from Paddle ducks.....................I would simply suggest you are cautious in the material selection.......
Subculture mentions ......"Norbert Bruggen will sell you bronze DU bushes in metric sizes from 3mm upwards. these are PTFE (telfon) and self lubricating dry and in water, really nice for sub use".
Bronze impregnated Teflon...either 40% or 60% [by weight] may be a better option......Why not contact Norbert & ask....
________________________________________________________
Reply #1 on: June 15, 2005, 08:51:01 PM »
Hi Stuart
Today's PD postings have a selection of recommendations - "like I did this xx years ago but it didn't work" & here is another
I would also opt away from delryn, nylon or any of it's Du Pont cousins - they are all unstable ie., high expansion rates for little
temperature increase as compared to bronze etc (20 years ago I tried nylon for the prop shaft stern tube bushes - absolute waste of time
(motor current consumption doubled as the bushes grew & provided tighter diametrical clearance over the prop shaft) - I could get access to the external (rudder side) bush to replace it in sintered bronze, however the stern tube was 5/8" diameter copper tube about 2 1/2"long and epoxied into the hull - required a hacksaw and 4" mini grinder to get the tube out!
regards Derek
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The DU (actually should have put DU-B for full accuracy) bushes I mentioned are primarily bronze. The PTFE part is small but improves the friction coefficient. They are designed for submerged use.
Normal sintered phosphor bronze bushes also work perfectly well. Someone on another forum suggested looking in old redundant computer equipment for bushes, which is good advice. I find old CD ROM drives are handy for small gauge ground shafting, bearings, gears, pulleys, motors etc.
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DEREK ,
"......Why not contact Norbert & ask...." I wheel do that , O0
@subculture
"I find old CD ROM drives are handy for small gauge ground shafting, bearings, gears, pulleys, motors etc."
I know about those bushes,there are very good ,but for these project are TOO SMALL . But even these are hard to find . Not many old computers during these days .
THANK YOU BOTH any way . :-))
MARIUS
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H Marius,
I think every material we've mentioned will do the job very adequately but personally I will carry on using pure PTFE. (It is just so easy and cheap to buy a rod of PTFE on ebay.)
(Just for information, water absorption by PTFE is actually pretty minimal compared with Nylon
http://www2.dupont.com/Teflon_Industrial/en_US/tech_info/techinfo_compare.html)
David
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HI,
I made some Hand Sketches with flooding holes for Bow and Aft . I didn't have measurements so I made them at the common sense !. What d You thing Guys ?. They Look realistic enough to be transfered to my model ?.
(http://s19.postimg.org/nstvepq2n/BOW_AFT_Floding_Holes_01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/nstvepq2n/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ge4jmc473/BOW_AFT_Floding_Holes_02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ge4jmc473/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/lqte0gs3j/BOW_Floding_Holes_01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lqte0gs3j/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/w9tdpmurj/AFT_Floding_Holes_01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/w9tdpmurj/)
What are Your suggestion for a successful transfer from paper to model , regarding the model is 3D object and paper is 2d ?
MARIUS
-
Looks alright to me. Got some filing to do, haven't you!
Regarding transfer, I would just draw them straight onto the model. Will take time, but there you go- that's modelmaking. Another method if you have a laser printer or photocopy the prints is to use toner transfer. Print the outlines onto glossy photo paper, spin them over and use an iron on a hot setting to melt the toner onto the hull.
Difficult to get the position right however, so i would say drawing them on is the best method.
-
HI @subculture .
Thanks for the answer .
".... Got some filing to do, haven't you!" - You are Absolutely right . {-)
".....Regarding transfer, I would just draw them straight onto the model ......" I wheel choose these method because I don't have another option, but I'm not in a hurry . Is a Splendid method to do something with the spare time :-) O0 .
All The Best MARIUS
-
Hello Marius!!
Richard
-
HELLO RICHARD , :-) ?!?!?! .
Is THAT RCHARD I know ?!. %)
MARIUS
-
It most certainly is! How are you?
Richard
-
HELL again ,
Well sense my last post no one give as another point of view I decided to move on .
And these what came up after :
(http://s19.postimg.org/sdv7kzsqn/Transfering_Holes_0_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sdv7kzsqn/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/9mtaaty67/Transfering_Holes_1_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9mtaaty67/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/cuxrnvkfz/Transfering_Holes_2_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/cuxrnvkfz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/x3l59ljr3/Transfering_Holes_3_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/x3l59ljr3/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/qr5zzrgov/Transfering_Holes_4_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/qr5zzrgov/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/izpa17cjj/Transfering_Holes_5_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/izpa17cjj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ibgfi9dtr/Transfering_Holes_6_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ibgfi9dtr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/khaqcrha7/Transfering_Holes_7_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/khaqcrha7/)
now is the time , if some one has some advices about how to procede from here .
MARIUS
-
And complete Nr of Holes:
(http://s19.postimg.org/gyyqgdge7/Complete_Holes_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gyyqgdge7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/jubtn8ke7/Complete_Holes_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jubtn8ke7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/i3xdzhs8v/Complete_Holes_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/i3xdzhs8v/)
on the corners each holes I wheel tray to make them round instead 90 degrees . ok2
MARIUS
-
To make round corners now you will
end up with larger holes.
The corners should have been drilled first.
Probably best to clean up the holes and leave
them square.
Ned
-
HI @Ned ,
"To make round corners now you will
end up with larger holes.
The corners should have been drilled first.
Probably best to clean up the holes and leave
them square."".......How did You know is not going to be easy to make them ROUND ?!?!?! :((
Yes I did trayed and at the end I had to leave them square . >>:-(
these is the first Hole :
(http://s19.postimg.org/eycs9a9mn/First_HOLE_0_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/eycs9a9mn/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ij8nsie67/First_HOLE_1_20.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ij8nsie67/)
any Recommendation for ?. ok2
MARIUS
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTRAcM5-wUc&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTRAcM5-wUc&feature=youtu.be) :-)
-
HI , (http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I succeed to finish the bow flooding holes .
Before I remove the blue tape I ask You to take a look and tell me if is OK . There are some other detail witch can be made on ?.
(http://s19.postimg.org/b2a2efupr/Finished_Flooding_Holes_20_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/b2a2efupr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/sguamprun/Finished_Flooding_Holes_20_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sguamprun/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/a7ixenxhb/Finished_Flooding_Holes_15_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/a7ixenxhb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ug6b0dwsf/Finished_Flooding_Holes_15_3.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ug6b0dwsf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/7g491socf/Finished_Flooding_Holes_15_4.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7g491socf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/uius0yptr/Finished_Flooding_Holes_15_5.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uius0yptr/)
MARIUS
-
The hull should flood down easily with that little lot on it, which is the main thing.
I don't know enough about this class to comment on accuracy, but I wouldn't worry about it. Crack on with the rest of the slots, and then you can tackle more interesting aspects of the build.
-
OK , I wheel . :-))
I'm working on the aft flooding holes drawings .
MARIUS
-
HI There , :-)
Not much progress . I Finished drawings for the Aft flooding Holes :
(http://s19.postimg.org/lstk5qzwf/00_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lstk5qzwf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/5vus917i7/01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5vus917i7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/p27zc7nzz/02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/p27zc7nzz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ax26aeeyn/03_20.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ax26aeeyn/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4xef6qu67/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4xef6qu67/)
Next stage is transferring them on blue tape and then on Model .
What do You guise twink ? .
MARIUS
-
HI all , (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
A Little Progress to day
I made the big holes and I'd like to know how to do the rest of it .
(http://s19.postimg.org/pggnxsr3z/AFT_Flooding_Holes_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pggnxsr3z/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/8h7pijfwf/AFT_Flooding_Holes_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8h7pijfwf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/3jyqb63b3/HOE_should_be_this_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3jyqb63b3/) anyone have an idea how they look like those in order to make the scribing ?.
MARIUS
-
Hello all , :-)
After couple months of absence I began working again on LA project . I start working on wtc components and in order to finalize the propeller shaft I need some help and guidance to do these :
- how to find the center of the AFT cone ?;
- how to fix the Bronze Bushing on that cone with the possibility of extraction if is needed ?.
- how do I know what is the correct position before make the hole for bushing ?;
To understand much better what I mean see the pictures:
(http://s19.postimg.org/x7nz1522n/AFT_BRONZE_Bushing_15_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/x7nz1522n/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/x8xwuk3wf/AFT_BRONZE_Bushing_15_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/x8xwuk3wf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/wkp2bm56n/AFT_BRONZE_Bushing_15_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wkp2bm56n/)
and here :
(http://s19.postimg.org/kwv0h2g1r/AFT_BRONZE_Bushing_15_4.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/kwv0h2g1r/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/j573ja30f/Drowing_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j573ja30f/)
Maybe I didn't express my self correctly but I think You know what I mean , I hope :}
MARIUS
-
Hi Marius,
The way I would do it would be to treat the ends of the cones as 2 circles. With dividers scribe a "guess" position using various points around the circumference. A central location will appear. (You can modify the guess as you go along to some extent.)
The bearing could be an interference fit in the cone. (The friction should be low so no tendency to rotate the bearing and the prop will hold the assembly together.) (Presumably there is no shaft seal at the cone end?)
David
-
Hi ,
THANK YOU DAVID ,
I will try to follow Your advice .
I have a small Ball Bearing for the shaft but is difficult to fix them parallel perfectly with the cone circles (big one and small one) and I thought is much easier to use that small Bushing and to find a way to fix them on the cone material .
What do You think ?. I wheel make a small hand drawing and post it here .
MARIUS
-
Not sure how many hours you plan on sailing your sub, Marius. However it's unlikely you'll wear out that bush within your lifetime, providing you give it a drop of oil before each run, so just open up the hole with drills and files, and bond it in. Job done.
-
Hi Marius,
Just thinking about this again - you have a lathe don't you?
If so just centre it in the chuck and you are almost there.
And yes, as Andy says, you could bond it in, if you want.
David
-
THANK YOU both of You . :-)
Yes I have a small mini lathe and I think is the best way to do it .
I think I have an idea how to do it .
Not sure how many hours you plan on sailing your sub, Marius. However it's unlikely you'll wear out that bush within your lifetime, providing you give it a drop of oil before each run, so just open up the hole with drills and files, and bond it in. Job done.
You are right and I will use my lathe for it . :-))
MARIUS
-
Hello,
I made some small progress with , what I say is "ballast tank pump command Block" . I had some changes because when I glued those 2 microswitchs to the "komacel" piece , a tiny drop of glue was poured to the plastic axe of the metallic arm and melt it :
(http://s19.postimg.org/7c0k6y8qn/01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7c0k6y8qn/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/v49viharj/02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/v49viharj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6ca9b8tkv/03_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6ca9b8tkv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/evtn901xb/04_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/evtn901xb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/n2q8ebhdr/05_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/n2q8ebhdr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ymqgsm11b/07_15_bis_Left_right.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ymqgsm11b/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/d7z383dfj/07_15_Left_Right.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/d7z383dfj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6vjxy9adb/08_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6vjxy9adb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6k2hlhtxb/09_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6k2hlhtxb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/68l18qdhb/10_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/68l18qdhb/)
MARIUS .
-
Nice, simple solution to a reversing circuit actuator :-))
-
Nice, simple solution to a reversing circuit actuator :-))
THANK YOU . Sorry for the late replay . :-)
Is a slow build , I know but .... . >>:-( that's life !!!.
I did last evnig and these mornig another mast , witch is the 3rd one . I intend to put a small withe 3mm super bright LED on top on it later on .
Pictures :
(http://s19.postimg.org/px9qj33cv/Mast_Mold_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/px9qj33cv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/eyyh0werj/Mast_Mold_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/eyyh0werj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/gf9zj1hof/Mast_Mold_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gf9zj1hof/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/8p37dwfcv/Mast_Resin_04.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8p37dwfcv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/pbkrmz8an/Mats_Resin_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pbkrmz8an/)
MARIUS
-
Hello my friends , :-)
I need some advices / guidance to find a way to rise the tower masts - all at once - for my sub .
Any one some ideeas , regarding there is not much space in the tower - see picture .
THANK YOU
- (http://s19.postimg.org/8xdt7498f/00_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8xdt7498f/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/y4op7dccf/01_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/y4op7dccf/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/sujqg2s3j/02_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sujqg2s3j/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/i8zv42lrz/03_15.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/i8zv42lrz/)
Of course the answer is aspected ASAP . {-)
MARIUS
-
Hello Marius, how are you?
Have you thought of using a piece of foam or cork under the 'scopes to raise and lower them? That's how we used to do it back when I started in subs.
Rich
-
HI RICHARD , :-)
I'm excellent . :-))
How are YOU ?! . I was Really worried about You . I send You a couple of messages but no answer and I thought You ar not well . THANK GOOD is everything OK .
I think is a good idea . But I suppose is going to rise the masts when is submerged and is not going to be visible . If I didn't find another simple solution to reverse the process , that's going to be .
I believe is going to need some guidance to be stable on horizontal movement , don't You think ?! .
MARIUS
P.S You have NO idea how glad I am to "hear" You again !.
-
The cork floatation method is a simple system and works well on subs where the periscopes are placed over the centre of gravity, which is pretty much every sub prior to the modern hull of revolution nuclear boats. Many modern subs tend to have their scopes mounted forward of the desired C.G, so anything with floatation forward of that point above the waterline is likely to cause some issues with your trim.
The LA class has its fin mounted very far forward, so whatever system you adopt, it should minimise displacement.
-
@subculture ,
THANK YOU for the explanation . :-))
MARIUS
-
Marius, I will email you very soon, my friend.
Rich
-
I look forward RICHARD . :-))
MARIUS
-
Some small steps those days .
I made the Lights for the Tower :
(http://s19.postimg.org/sev517iyn/Navigation_Lights_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sev517iyn/)
and a nasty holl in the hull for the Tower :
- (http://s19.postimg.org/g6hgq8b7j/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/g6hgq8b7j/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/lj6b4cz3z/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lj6b4cz3z/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/3uekcqncv/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3uekcqncv/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/oskqatn7j/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/oskqatn7j/)
- (http://s19.postimg.org/9l9c47kqn/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9l9c47kqn/)
not having the propper tools I used the old fashion way : drilling hol next to hol as closer I could .
MARIUS
-
Some progress :
(http://s19.postimg.org/77red76bj/RUDDERS_Buses_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/77red76bj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/buxgeytof/RUDDERS_Buses_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/buxgeytof/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/9evn14blr/RUDDERS_Buses_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9evn14blr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/9swz0pvpb/RUDDERS_Buses_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9swz0pvpb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/u1kcmfv0f/RUDDERS_Buses_04.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/u1kcmfv0f/)
don't laugh too hard about my methods ..... when you don't have any help you need to find a way and that popped to mind quickly .
Also I succed to glue the Tower to the Upper Hull :
(http://s19.postimg.org/ho7ifj5bz/Tower_glued_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ho7ifj5bz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/hphg8y75r/Tower_glued_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hphg8y75r/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/sdpslj6in/Tower_glued_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sdpslj6in/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/b1pg03d1b/Tower_glued_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/b1pg03d1b/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/s3ia26rwf/Tower_glued_04_0.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/s3ia26rwf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/pap2i5rjz/Tower_glued_05.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pap2i5rjz/)
That's all for now .
MARIUS
-
HI there , :-)
Spring always been among my favorites ...... so with the arrival of the first warm days and especially sunny days - I am addicted / dependent for the sunlight like plants - I started working on submarine and see that I have some spore. .... this is what I managed to do today ,
Today I gave holes, I gave threads, I filed, I sanded, cut and that's what came out :
(http://s19.postimg.org/s1c6kkse7/Dive_Planes_with_screws_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/s1c6kkse7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/xqsf4vykf/Dive_Planes_with_screws_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xqsf4vykf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/j8v7ww79b/Dive_Planes_with_screws_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j8v7ww79b/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6vidpzhkv/Dive_Planes_with_screws_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6vidpzhkv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/iynpdjsn3/Dive_Planes_with_screws_04.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/iynpdjsn3/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/8pv87q4lb/Dive_Planes_with_screws_05.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8pv87q4lb/)
MARIUS
-
HI there ,
A small progress today by making a little dipper the design lines in order to not be covered by paint :
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMFPER1KjPg&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMFPER1KjPg&feature=youtu.be)
I know , I know I did a lots of "extra" lines which shouldn't be there (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif) but maybe I can find some putty to fix these .
MARIUS
-
Not much work these day because I'm stuck with a problem : >:-o
- the distance between the steering rudders axle and depth rudders axle is very small and do not know how to manufacture coupling rudders .... {:-{
- because of that I can't get a left / right rudders movement necessary for the turn submarine and no movement up / down for dive planes ,
The distance I took it form the drawing and scale distances table , but doesn't seems to be right . >>:-(
May be You can give me some advices .
MARIUS
-
HI Guys ,
Check these out :
(http://s19.postimg.org/3qvba3bgf/Yoke_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3qvba3bgf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/h927mdnlr/Yoke_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/h927mdnlr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/82jwz3idb/Yoke_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/82jwz3idb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/rloi8gh4v/Yoke_04.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/rloi8gh4v/)
Ha , what do You think? ,
I know is ugly but is WORKING (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
MARIUS
-
Marius, who cares what it looks like? It won't be on show up there in the stern, so as long as it works and you're happy with it, that's good enough.
-
Some small update for it :
(http://s19.postimg.org/nlly9yg1r/Yoke_Update_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/nlly9yg1r/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/mklpktz27/Yoke_Update_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/mklpktz27/)
At the end is going to be painted only with primer and the some grease
MARIUS
-
Looks good to me, Marius!
(A (fairly) standard control yoke.)
David
-
HI ,
Only small update :
at the beginning was "the Light" (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
(http://s19.postimg.org/uvlrh9fpb/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uvlrh9fpb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/8xpanh0ov/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8xpanh0ov/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/tvvglk0jj/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/tvvglk0jj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/r3291j073/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/r3291j073/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/xi19y76wv/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xi19y76wv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/92t1x57zz/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/92t1x57zz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/pruht24lb/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pruht24lb/)
but fast the Darkness was coming : (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
(http://s19.postimg.org/fj20n8gjj/0_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/fj20n8gjj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/xzwfe1whr/0_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xzwfe1whr/)
And I had to make another set : (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
(http://s19.postimg.org/moyd3ff0f/New_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/moyd3ff0f/)
MARIUS
-
To day I had some time to add these small rings to Ventilation Holes on the upper hull :
(http://s19.postimg.org/wdgekaz7j/Ventilating_holes_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wdgekaz7j/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/hirt64pmn/Ventilating_holes_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hirt64pmn/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/epylm3pa7/Ventilating_holes_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/epylm3pa7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/er8jfir3z/Ventilating_holes_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/er8jfir3z/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4v7gfvlbz/Ventilating_holes_04.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4v7gfvlbz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/o1knj21tr/Ventilating_holes_05.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/o1knj21tr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/jtpvab0e7/Ventilating_holes_06.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jtpvab0e7/)
MARIUS
-
HI there , (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
To day I did some small adjustments to the flooding holes :
- I enlarge hole in the hull approximately 0,1mm bigger than the rivet ring . Actually I made just a dipper chamfer for the rivet rings ;
- I enlarge also the hole in the rivet ring nd than I cut it the ring ,
The result is , what You see in the pictures below :
(http://s19.postimg.org/jl3x5aslb/Modified_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jl3x5aslb/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/wqjfbemgv/Modified_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wqjfbemgv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4exved2kf/Modified_Flat_Surface_UP_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4exved2kf/)
looks more OK than the rivet next ?.
The last picture shown the rivet ring with flat surface up side down but I don't like it . I'm gonna use the rivet ring with curved surface up .
MARIUS
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OK That's it !. (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
I'm don with the flooding holes . (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
I don't want to hear NO more about Flooding Holes!!! . (http://www.subcommittee.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
these is the FINAL shape :
(http://s19.postimg.org/ym67mkbb3/Flooding_Holes_NEW_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ym67mkbb3/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/703g1vry7/Flooding_Holes_NEW_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/703g1vry7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/x9oikodvj/Flooding_Holes_NEW_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/x9oikodvj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/iezx6i4an/Flooding_Holes_NEW_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/iezx6i4an/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/xcczl96wv/Flooding_Holes_NEW_Finished_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xcczl96wv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/o5uoxz1of/Flooding_Holes_NEW_Finished_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/o5uoxz1of/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/5esrnt73z/Flooding_Holes_NEW_Finished_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5esrnt73z/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/gfnwstzcv/Flooding_Holes_NEW_inside_00.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gfnwstzcv/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/hj814sjzz/Flooding_Holes_NEW_inside_01.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hj814sjzz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/x5zai5xrz/Flooding_Holes_NEW_inside_02.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/x5zai5xrz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ud62y4xfj/Flooding_Holes_NEW_inside_03.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ud62y4xfj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/jrm7m4r3z/Flooding_Holes_NEW_inside_04.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jrm7m4r3z/)
MARIUS
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I hate opening up flood holes...luckily the X craft doesn't have too many to do, but I remember doing the U boat...hundreds of the things.
You're doing well, Marius...looking good.
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THANKS RICH , :-))
Not the number of holes was the problem . My luck of knowledge about how to approach the problem was the issue . :((
MARIUS
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Are the standard off the shelf shell of the individual pop rivets not aluminium? :o...or are brass/bronze shell with a Grade 316 shaft available?.............Derek
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HI DEREK ,
I'm Sorry but I don't understand Your question !.
Can You Rephrase ?. :}
MARIUS
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HELLO There ,
I progressed a little work on the submarine. ...
Not having a laser level or other modern means of marking curved surfaces , I have found a way to draw a straight line inside the lower hull .
I did like the following:
On the exterior of the lower hull I had the axis allready trased – axis used to draw the flooding holes ...... I made a few very small holes along this axis , I’ve passed a more resistant rope inside the submarine , I caught as stretched out as I could at the ends , and on the other holes I made a connection to the outside as seen in pictures .
In the end I’ve put a few drops of glue on each link
(http://s19.postimage.org/j5iejfsjj/IMG_1954.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j5iejfsjj/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/t43d5x1z3/IMG_1955.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t43d5x1z3/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/e9errqse7/IMG_1956.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e9errqse7/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/6upfzd6in/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6upfzd6in/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/xh1wocapr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xh1wocapr/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/dnpsvmxbz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dnpsvmxbz/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/czgycoym7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/czgycoym7/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/q4wgisshr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q4wgisshr/)
then I moved to the next stage of the work consisted of making a bronze bushings have inside a 6mm hole for propeller shaft and a small flange at one end.
Flange and also will be a stop on it will slip when the propeller rotates.
Bush I did - a smaller more remain outside as much as in material thickness will give aft cone when the hole for attachment.
I found a shaft 6mm long enough, worked extremely fine (it was to a printer) at one end which I did a 5mm thread for the adoptive propeller and screwing nut
(http://s19.postimage.org/mz34khc1r/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mz34khc1r/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/5zu6580u7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5zu6580u7/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/wmb87xuf3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wmb87xuf3/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/62in5stvj/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/62in5stvj/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/eytf9qkhr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eytf9qkhr/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/9bx2c9hz3/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9bx2c9hz3/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/o95jd9v7j/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o95jd9v7j/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/swblf1ikf/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/swblf1ikf/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/44bz7t1dr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/44bz7t1dr/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/a6jlyaptr/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a6jlyaptr/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/j2ue28gfz/Shaft_Fillet_00.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j2ue28gfz/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/u3pj798ov/Shaft_Fillet_01.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/u3pj798ov/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/jv1nf6a0v/Shaft_Fillet_02.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jv1nf6a0v/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/ct3psz6f3/Shaft_Fillet_03.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ct3psz6f3/)
(http://s19.postimage.org/fogszuaf3/Shaft_Fillet_04.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fogszuaf3/)
And the last step :
- not having such thick material for WTC supports - and two component resin is very expensive here , I chose to do each support from light pvc , four layers of 2 mm glued , pressed and procesed on lathe - as seen in pictures .... a job that is extremely messy ,
(http://s19.postimg.org/gzwgup70f/010.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gzwgup70f/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ejz8ulebj/020.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ejz8ulebj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/g0arcqh8f/030.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/g0arcqh8f/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/p9cxmuq4f/040.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/p9cxmuq4f/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/um1s0ze0v/050.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/um1s0ze0v/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/i8oxu2ocf/060.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/i8oxu2ocf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ruiiadfi7/070.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ruiiadfi7/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/cab4ju5dr/080.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/cab4ju5dr/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/hzrd45bjz/090.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hzrd45bjz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/g98c2nu0v/100.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/g98c2nu0v/)
MARIUS
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dont know if you alrerady have all the WTC etc.,but there is a lot just came up on flea bay Los angeles specifically mentioned
Jay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?rt=nc&_sop=10&_nkw=radio+controlled+boats&_ipg=200&_geositeid=3&_trksid=m194 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?rt=nc&_sop=10&_nkw=radio+controlled+boats&_ipg=200&_geositeid=3&_trksid=m194)
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link to the WTC
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rc-Submarine-W-T-C-Dive-Cylinder-To-Fit-MMB-Los-Angeles-Sub-/261899951704?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cfa741e58
john
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THANK YOU both , but I already have most of the stuff .
Not to mention that my wallet is so dry ! <:(
I'm struggle to make from time to time some progress with it .
MARIUS
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And for the moment these is all I can make :
(http://s19.postimg.org/x2nfuztfj/001.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/x2nfuztfj/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/b4qz17ef3/002.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/b4qz17ef3/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/v0mygqvgf/003.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/v0mygqvgf/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/up5i3zf0f/004.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/up5i3zf0f/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ibsnx2pbz/005.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ibsnx2pbz/)
(http://s19.postimg.org/7dheew0qn/006.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7dheew0qn/)
until June 22 , I wont be in town so is going to be a pause in construction .
MARIUS