Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: TailUK on February 06, 2014, 11:11:31 am
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I'm looking to beg, borrow or buy a set of plans for Caldercraft's Coaster "Talacre". I bought a built model through our club and it's a bit of a "rescue pup" The deck hatch and winch are missing and the superstructure, aft of the bridge. It looks like the flying bridge was put on back to front too but I'm lead to believe that this is an error with the plans. If anyone has plans I could borrow to copy I'll be happy to pay postage in both directions. Thanks in advance.
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Have you seen my build here...........
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43099.msg435210.html#msg435210
I'll dig out some drawings and check their sizes, as I seem to recall it's a big sheet or two.
Cheers
ken
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Ken
Your'e Talacre looks great! I spotted the same error Colin did with bridge. I may have read that article too but it was a while back. My boat is finished but parts are missing. The electrics need work to use 2.4Ghz and it seems the superstructure and deck hatch have gone with the wind. It also need a general tidy up and a carrying cradle. What I really need are the details from the drawings concerning the missing bits I can deduce the size from the deck openings but need to know where to put ports, funnel, water tank davits, etc.
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I'll have a root around and see what I have. :-))
ken
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I'll have a root around and see what I have. :-))
ken
Thanks Ken, much appreciated.
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I've dug out the only drawing. It's 3 foot by 4 foot and gone all brown ???? Copying it would be a nightmare.
There is also the build instructions (place part A on part B type) but these are not really helpful if you are designing shapes.
I went through my build blog and all the information you should need is there so have a go. It's quite a simple construction but, if there is any particular section you're not clear about then please ask and we'll do our best to advise.
Hope this helps
Ken
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have you tried contacting jotika/caldercraft?
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now c'mon Tailuk...get those grey cells going, get the juices flowing and a bit o' scratch building formulated..........how hard can it be to make two boxes and a flying bridge top for your Talacre to fit the hole that's already in the deck.......you don't need plans for that................the height of the main superstructure would be around 6'6" high with the wheel house box similar and the flying bridge half that height............. and the hatch to fit with a sloping front enf that the winch goes on.......haven't seen plans for mine for donkey's years but remember that much.
neil.
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hey ............. that looks like mine Neil. {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Cheers
Ken
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I've dug out the only drawing. It's 3 foot by 4 foot and gone all brown ???? Copying it would be a nightmare.
There is also the build instructions (place part A on part B type) but these are not really helpful if you are designing shapes.
I went through my build blog and all the information you should need is there so have a go. It's quite a simple construction but, if there is any particular section you're not clear about then please ask and we'll do our best to advise.
Hope this helps
Ken
Ken
Thanks for looking anyway. As you can see below it looks like I may have to do without.
Thanks again
Les
now c'mon Tailuk...get those grey cells going, get the juices flowing and a bit o' scratch building formulated..........how hard can it be to make two boxes and a flying bridge top for your Talacre to fit the hole that's already in the deck.......you don't need plans for that................the height of the main superstructure would be around 6'6" high with the wheel house box similar and the flying bridge half that height............. and the hatch to fit with a sloping front enf that the winch goes on.......haven't seen plans for mine for donkey's years but remember that much.
neil.
I've got that much! The size of the deck openings give a idea of the size of the bits require I can gauge the height of the superstructure from pics of other peoples models and the drawings in Waine's "Steam Coasters and Short Sea Traders" but I dislike being vague. I'd like a drawing if I can get it but I'm not lost without it. It's possible to estimate door and port positions from the other Talacres out there but don't forget that Caldercraft got the bridge the wrong way round so, in fact, a drawing may not do me much good anyway. I'm really just covering all the bases.
I've started work on the model and stripped out the old gear a Futabi servo and Rx an Electronize Speed controller and something I believe is a homemade BEC (It has "BEC, Pat Pending" written on it).
The offending bridge was already loose and I removed the plastic Prieser figures that were making the deck look untidy.
I going to fit a new SLA battery so I've got to check the ballasting (about 3 lbs of lead.) It's still a lot of work but I hope to have it on the water in a couple of weeks.
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Someone on this forum has a copy of the plans - mine :-)) I responded to an earlier request for the plans and instructions, but I can't remember who it was - sorry. {:-{
Barrie
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I will say this once more, have you tried contacting Jotika, as talacre is still in their inventory, I'm sure if youasked they could supply the plans etc. As the saying goes they can only say no.
http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Ccraft_Front.htm (http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Ccraft_Front.htm)
They have done for me in the past.
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Ken
but I dislike being vague.
the plans won't help you with measurements then if you dislike being vague...they were never drawn to scale in the first place....always with a caveat on them "DO NOT SCALE"
If you want to get a good idea then borrow a book from the library called "Steam Coasters and Short Sea Traders" by C V WAINE. There are plans in there for the vessel with correct arrangements.
the plans will only give a vague GA of what you have already.
neil
sorry, misread your post.........I see you already have that book..........I did all my re hash of the talacre to make a Ben Ain long before frank Hincliffe did the Mountfleet version.......and found working from the measurements in the book better than the caldercraft plans.
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I have moved this interesting monologue over to Working Vessels and perhaps you can continue it with your build pictures as you progress.
The Talacre and it's details were always discussed with interest, even when I was building mine.
Thank you
ken
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I will say this once more, have you tried contacting Jotika, as talacre is still in their inventory, I'm sure if youasked they could supply the plans etc. As the saying goes they can only say no.
http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Ccraft_Front.htm (http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Ccraft_Front.htm)
They have done for me in the past.
Sorry Bear I wasn't ignoring you on purpose. (That actually sounds worse, doesn't it!) I contacted Jotika on Wednesday morning and haven't heard back yet. They may come through yet.
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try givimg them a call, if i remember rightly that's what i did, didn't think you were ignoring me. Thought you may have missed it. :}
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I've been waiting for stuff to turn up so thought I'd make a start with Talacre. Like I said she's a bit of a rescue pup (Pics 002,003 and 005). I think that the deck hatch and rear superstructure were stepped or dropped on as the balsa deck coaming was cracking. I flooded in some super glue and sanded them out a little.
While I've been waiting I tried my hand at one of her lifeboats. I used old xmas cards over a Ply and Foam core. The bow planking got away from me a little so I had to resort to filler. (Pics 008.009.) The boat is about 100mm long or 16 feet in 1/48th scale.
The superstructure and deck hatches will be fitted over sheet plastic inserts to ensure they are a good tight fit. (Pic007). The deck hatch coaming will be a vac forming to get the nice rounded corners. The rear cabin is a sheet plastic "cut and shut" job.
The next job will be to fit the "gubbins"
To proceed I still need a little bit of data. Could someone with a Talacre let me know the following if possible, many thanks.
Diameter and height of the funnel?
Length, width and height of the engine room skylights.
Length and diameter of the water tank.
Length and width of the base for the Gib winch.
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I've just been out and have the following measurements for you.
Funnel
Diameter 34.74mm
Height 106mm
Tilt backwards 11mm from base
Engine room skylights.
Length 32mm
width 22.6mm
height 10mm tilt up centre 14mm
Water tank
Length 55.8mm
diameter 22mm . rings on each end add to the Diameter at that point
Gib winch.
length 31mm
Width 41.5mm
Cheers
Ken
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Thanks, Ken, that's perfect.
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I unexpected found myself with a long lunch hour so I decided to give the deck hatch coaming a go. The idea was to fit a vacuum forming around the plastic insert shown in the last posting.
I used the outside dimension of the insert to produce a vac forming pattern ( Pic 010) in MDF. I made it in 2 parts for speed and to get a crisp line on the sloping part. I pulled the vac forming in 2mm Styrene on one of the old Formech machines we have . (Pics 011, 012).
Trimmed out of the sheet and cut down to the level of the bulwarks (as per the references) I superglued it to the plastic insert and filled the top opening ready for the simulated canvas. (Pics 014, 015).
A little research on the battern wedges is needed but she definately looks better with the deck hatch back in place.
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Oh for a go on that machine. :}
I suppose the plastic has to be quite hot to bend such angles ??
Came out well.
ken
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The styrene we use is HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) It needs about 140 degrees C to pull on a vac former You can juggle that temperature a little to suit the mould but overheating can result in the plastic pulling very thin in places. Our old Formech machines will happily pull up 8mm thick in styrene and about 6mm in Acrylic "Perspex" or PET-G. These are our preferred plastic for transparent mouldings. I'd post some pics of my workshop but I wouldn't be able to handle all the jealousy. :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
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i have a set of plans if you still need them. pm me
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An interesting problem arose when I started constructing the rear deckhouse. (see pic 016) The deck immediately aft of the bridge is uneven, higher on one side. I constructed the deck house, in 2mm sheet styrene, around the previously made deck insert (see pic 017) and when dropped in place it show the uneveness of the deck quite plainly (see pic 018) The lower edge of the deck house was fitted to the shape of the deck and the top edge adjusted to appear level with the rear bridge rail. Then I added the deck house roof in 1mm styrene, trimmed to overhang by 2mm (about 4 scale inches) This matches the line drawing in C.V.Waine's book.(see pic 019).
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Please note, The rear cabin is only as high as a door frame.
ken
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I took the dimension fron the Waine drawing and from looking at other Talacre models. It's a "guesstimate" for sure but I'm fairly sure it's close. It's possble that the deck is lower than it should be. I've checked the other drawings in Waine and although there are no scaled drawings of Talacre the height of the rear accomodation on other coasters is usually between 7 and 8 feet, thats 43 - 48 mms in 1/48th scale.
I've added the Talacre drawing from Waine's book so you can see what I mean.
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Yes, you are correct. The illusion from your photo shows the bridge a little low against it.
Great fun eh !
Ken
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I'm pretty sure that the deck on my Talacre is lower than it should be. This explains how a deck house that is only just taller than the door would fit to where it's shown on others folks models My deck house is sized to reach from the deck to where it's shown on the sketch.
It also shows quite a gap above the door and I assume that the door wouldn't come right to deck level. (What the USN call "knee-knockers") Caldercraft supplied doors are 37mm (about 6 scale feet).
Still, if I was a "rivet counter" I wouldn't be proceeding without scale drawings. So, as our Australian cousins would say, "She'll be right".
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TailUK.......this is certainly a very romantic image of Talacre .... :-))
Just a question....on vessels of this build/era.....was the camber of the deck not constant [arc/height to width]....irrespective of position? ie., from bow to stern?...and the carried upwards with the same proportions?
May just be artistic licence ....bit the aft bridge vertical timbers appear to have greater camber than the aft accommodation roof line.......Derek
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I think you got a point there. The bridge wings look very steep. The camber on the deck house roof looks about right as deck camber decreases as it get closer to the stern and the bow but the bridge shouldn't be as curved as it seems to be. It may be exagerated by the pic which is a photo rather than a scan but I believe from the available pics the curve should be much more gentle.
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The painting is distorted and should not be used as an accurate reference. The photos are a better guide.
Colin
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I managed to get most of the detail fittings I needed from the show at Whitwick so carried on with the deck hatch coaming, which is now suitably "battened down" and painting the bridge. (See pics 022 and 023)
My researches have led me to conclude that Caldercraft kit represents a coaster called the "Doris Thomas" which was later re-named "Ben Ain" (the subject of the Mountfleet Models kit) and as a result I've decided on a name change to "Doris Thomas" for my model. Mainly because I like that name better and I wont have to build a new Bridge.
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I also finished the ship's boats. (See pic 024)
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The coaster is back on the water! I fitted the "gubbins" A 6v SLA and Turnigy ESC along with a servo and reconnected the motor. The ESC may need to be replaced at a later stage but for now it seems to run the motor at a resonable speed. I reinserted the lead ballast that came with the boat but looking at where she sits in the water I think a couple more pounds may be necessary. All in all though I'm very pleased. With the ballast evenly spread inside the hull the coaster seems to be really stable although the test pond wasn't very rough. She cut through her own wake without much movement and this bodes well I think. (see pics 025 and 026)
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Not bad at all. :-)) I found they are great on the water and can get around very agile.
ken
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She does sail very well and now I've added some ballast the prop has stopped cavitating. I can't believe that not including the battery she taken 3 kilos to take her down to the waterline (and I think the waterline was painted too low as well) There also appears to be a leak around the prop shaft or rudder frame casting. I'll dry her out and bung some epoxy resin in.
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Anyone got the plans/drawings/instructions? PDF's would be good.