Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Stan on February 09, 2014, 07:02:31 pm
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Pictures showing ply plate glued in the hull bottom I hope this plate will take out the sag in the plastic hull. The vac formed hull is a two part job with very little gluing area to join them together and the plastic is very thin. I will post more pictures before the end of the week. .Glue used to fix plate Sticks all
Stan Reffin
Kirklees Model Boat Club. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Pictures showing ply plate stuck in bottom of hull also outside filled with uhu Ackralit glue this will have to be sanded down to give a strong joint. Next step to shape rudders and fit also prop shafts.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Was the pressure so much that you can see the wooden stiffener plate through the bottom? how did you prevent glue leakage making it stick to the clamp method below.
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Hi Warspite. In my first post I mentioned the hull is very thin plastic so you will be able to see the outline of the ply plate. The hull joint is now very strong. To stop the glue from sticking to the clamps and timber blocks I simply rubbed candle grease on to the timber blocks. The exterior glue was applied after the ply plate glue had dried. Only very slight pressure was applied to the clamps hope this explains more to follow.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Managed to do a bit more today. Started to fit the balsa deck supports on the stern section I am having to scrap the 3mm deck section and replace with 1.5mm plastic card this will allow freeing ports to made in the hull. Next step is to fit rudders motors and shafts.
Stan
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I have purchased the prop shafts, props, motors and rudder servo. I am now waiting for new plan from the floating dry dock. The plan in the picture is the minesweeping version. Picture from Ellesmere last week end.
Stan
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Looking good so far. I'll be watching this build and hope to get mine going one of these days.
Charles
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HI Admiralbb62. This is one of many projects that is on going. Most of the kit will be scrapped and rebuilt using thinner deck sections some brass etch parts more detail will be added better looking rudders and exposed prop shafts. Watch this space for more information.
Stan. :-) :-) :-) :-)
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HI Guys. Not much done on this over the last few weeks. Today I have fitted capacitors to each motor and wired up the motors. Next job cut out prop exits and fit shafts and motors.
Stan
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Worth mentioning that the Royal Navy had quite a few of these ships as a WW2 "Kil" class. From the photos I've seen most, if not all, had side exhausts for their diesel engines rather than the funnel of this model. Different armament arrangement, too.
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HI Guys after many moths of refitting my fleet I have now started work on the German minesweeper and the Whitehall hull. Prop shafts fitted in the Whitehall not an easy job a large slot had to be cut to get the angle right. A plastic box was made either side of the shaft and the hole on the outside of the hull was masked off and the box was filled with stabalit express. The masking tape is removed when the glue is about set and further coats are given to build up this area when the glue is dry the area is sanded to follow the hull curve. More to follow
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Managed to do a little more this week fitted prop shafts and motors made good shaft exits in the hull . This week hopefully will fit the rudders and speed controllers more to follow
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Your progressing well Stan. I like the boxes surrounding the tubes, very tidy idea.
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Just a few shots showing the home made A frames and how the shaft exits from the hull look after sanding to follow the hull profile. Props are 20mm in dia further shots also show work in side the hull.
Stan
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Hello. I'm doing the same ship from the same set. Allow me here to make a description of the build process? Sorry - I write through the Google translator.
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Hi everyone not much done over the last few days. I have fitted the rudders and the push rods hope to fit the rudder servo on Saturday more pictures to follow.
Stan.
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Hi Guys I managed today to get the rudders connected working in the drive controllers at the moment. more to follow
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Is the rudder servo glued by the bottom or just placed ready for a holder to be added? Your set up looks very tidy.
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Some very good practical tips in this build. O0 O0
Digressing from the build, the shafts are exposed from the tube to the propeller.
What are the pros and cons on continuing the tubes to the A frame rather than the A frame acting as a bearing.
Not that you could do that without modifying the kit.
So I take it that the actual boat has “exposed” prop shafts.
The question is still the same, why and what are the pros and cons in the tubes extending to the prop.
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I will try to answer the questions.
The rudder servo is fixed to a plastic plate which is glued to the wood base. This allows the servo to fixed in place using double sided servo tape. You will see in my next pictures a plastic support has been fitted in front of the servo, this stops it moving when the servo push /pulls.
Exposed shafts - If the full sized ship has exposed shafts running through A or P frame then the model should follow suite but this is down to the builder. If you are building a scale model then if the vessel had exposed shafts, then you would expect to see them on the model. However there is no reason why the full shaft cannot be fitted right down to the prop, my personal choice.
Stan
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HI forgot to mention full size vessel had e/shafts. Further pictures showing wiring for the motors. R X and Speed controllers still to fit
Stan
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Again thanks for the information Stan. Double sided servo tape, I will look out for it.
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HI Guys a trip to my local model shop this morning to purchase a smaller lipo. The 2200 was little heavy a 1600 lipo is now installed. I would have liked to fit two ESC but space is at a premium so is the weight. Model is now in the test tank (bath)to confirm no leaks. I hope to fit the decks next week after a sail test this weekend. Forgot to mention fuse to fit in battery line and tidy up all the wiring. More pictures next week. Will be working on the German minesweeper rest of the week.
Stan.
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Splendid stuff!
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Great build so far--good to see this as it is a somewhat obscure kit. :-))
I am going to have to diversify my adhesives; been hearing quite a bit about Stabilit Express and now this Uhu Acrylit. Newfangled high tech stuff, no doubt.
Thought you might be going with 4-bladed screws like the original but 3-blades might give better performance...
(http://www.navsource.org/archives/11/110224202.jpg)
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Maybe you are correct with the 3-blade props. The Admirable class and the PCE are so similar one is lead to think they're identical under the waterline... The USS Rexberg PCE(R)-855 shows 3-blade props in drydock photos. :-X
(http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285510.jpg)
Photo's failed
ken
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Hi no pictures.
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I see them just fine. Why is that? I do want to know. {:-{
See here: http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/02855.htm (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/02855.htm) and scroll down for the drydock photos. ;)
Here's the pics I was referring to: http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285508.jpg (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285508.jpg)
http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285510.jpg (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285510.jpg)
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I see them just fine. Why is that? I do want to know. {:-{
See here: http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/02855.htm (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/02855.htm) and scroll down for the drydock photos. ;)
Here's the pics I was referring to: http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285508.jpg (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285508.jpg)
http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285510.jpg (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120285510.jpg)
All that shows in the previous post is a small square with black cross where there should be a picture usually happens when you don't up load the photo from your PC but refer to a web photo host.
In other words we all don't have the same access to your reference whereas if you upload your photo from your PC it is there for all to see.
There has been much commentary about using photo hosts and which ones etc but at the end of the day they all fail. Because if you move or cancel you photo storing etc all photos are lost to that thread. And as a photo is worth a thousand words lots of discussion is missing on the forum accordingly.
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I can no longer edit my post (how dumb is that?) so now I will post again just to rectify the photo content for posterity and because I myself dislike following an off-forum photo link. The pics weren't remote-hosted by me using photobucket or some such; only that they were located on navsource.org. In other forums this is not an issue because the photo site is usually quite stable as a web resource. ....So in the future, when posting I will disregard the photo button in the options bar and will use the attachment function instead.
Once again:
"Maybe you are correct with the 3-blade props. The Admirable class and the PCE are so similar one is lead to think they're identical under the waterline... The USS Rexberg PCE(R)-855 shows 3-blade props in drydock photos."
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I can no longer edit my post (how dumb is that?) so now I will post again just to rectify the photo content for posterity and because I myself dislike following an off-forum photo link. The pics weren't remote-hosted by me using photobucket or some such; only that they were located on navsource.org. In other forums this is not an issue because the photo site is usually quite stable as a web resource. ....So in the future, when posting I will disregard the photo button in the options bar and will use the attachment function instead.
:-)) :-)) O0 O0 Yes that is all I ever use, and occasionally re-size the image to the allowable limits
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:-)) :-)) O0 O0 Yes that is all I ever use, and occasionally re-size the image to the allowable limits
This is the one forum among many I visit that seems to have "issues" with intuitive usage. Guess it ain't all that intuitive or the problem is just me. O0
Pity too that there's a size limit that is, well, limited. Small to medium pics are sometimes hardly useful at all. Anway, here's that shot I was supposed to show showing the USS Inaugural high and dry on the riverbank. She's got 4-bladed screws:
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HI everyone thanks for the comments on the props. Does it matter if you fit 3 bladed or four bladed props looking at pictures they carried both.
Stan
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Ultimately no, I think. I'm just trying to find out if there was a historical difference between the two vessel classes in regards to the propulsion design. They look similar and may be the same ship for all intents and purposes but they have very different roles...
I figure maybe the PCE required "speed props" while the Admirable class minesweeper needed better power at lower revs for its mission and role?
The USS Hazard (AM-240) which was originally buried up to the waterline as a museum ship, was refloated by flooding in 2012 and when the waters receded she settled again and exposed most of the hull to include the props which are also 4-blade. Of course this proves nothing so...Pffft! Who knows? <:(
Anyway, back to your build, sorry for the diversion.
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HI everybody sorry for no new pictures I have been busy with other things. The motors in this model have been removed they did not work very well when connected to the speedo cheap and cheerful. I have now replaced them with 2 MFA Como 140/1 motors and up to press they seem much better pictures to follow later this week.
Stan.
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Looking forward to seeing them!
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Hope be back posting later this week.
Stan.
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Hi Guys back on the scene once again. I have enclosed some pictures showing final fitting out of the running gear. Motors have been changed to MFA 140 /01 these run up to nine volts. Also included pictures showing balsa frames used to construct the bridge sections. These are very flimsy and I would recommend them to be made from plastic card. The bottom section will need a further 4 mm to give the correct height. More pictures to follow.
Stan.
Kirklees Model Boat Club
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Crikey that must really make some fumes when being laser cut!
Looking complex but good Stan.
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Just a couple of shots showing plastic card applied to the balsa frame work. When complete it does make strong construction. I have used super glue for fixing the plastic card to the balsa frame work more pictures to follow.
Stan.
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The P C E hull had its sea trial this morning and I am pleased to say it sailed with no problems. I hope to have picture later this week.
Stan.
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That is good to hear! It means you have some more time to spend on the build rather than having to revisit the problems and sort them out.
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Picture showing first sea trials of the Whitehall hull. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Stan.
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Found a better picture Whitehall is visible to the left of the picture.
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Was a fellow boater showing you his Fletcher while you were testing your hull Stan?
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Just a few shots showing further timber fitted in the bow also plastic tube fitted at anchor points. Final shots showing some of the superstructure on the deck more to follow.
Stan
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One shot showing further bracing fitted on the fantail to give more strength when the rear section is glued down.
Stan.
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I resined my stuffing tubes in today and they look like yours even though the epoxy is clear. I must be doing something right:O)
Looking good:O)
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Found a better picture Whitehall is visible to the left of the picture.
I'm not sure that's a better picture, Stan. Your Whitehall, to use the vernacular, "photobombed" another's photo of a destroyer... {-)
Anyway, great progress on this kit. There's another build thread on RCG and it was built as-designed with a single screw--the reason given was that there wasn't enough room in the hull for two shafts and motors. But you've done fine with it.
You're a bit noncommittal on your motors, aren't you? {-)
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P/M sent what is RCG.
Stan.
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Hi Stan. Nice to see it coming along well. RCG is a web site called Radio control groups, well worth a look :-)) Cheers Stan. Phil
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Hi guys sadly no progress on this model. Hope to start again later in the year very busy at the moment but it will be back.
Stan. :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :((
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This little model is sat in my garage waiting for some T L C. I hope to resume work early in the new year more to follow.
Stan.
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Finally all my DIY work is complete back to model building on 2 builds and adding the final touches to the minesweeper.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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I am pleased to say I have managed to make a start again on this little model. The main problem I have had is to secure the centre deck section to the hull. I did not want to use bolts our screws so I have used magnets to secure the deck down see pictures supplied.
Stan.
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Work has now started again after the Christmas break . Just a few pictures showing how I have made the gun tubs. First cut out the circles then the shield parts pin down the base. Glue the shield in place and secure with cocktail sticks pushed in to a balsa block. Masking tape was applied to the balsa to stop the plastic sticking to it.
Stan.
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Building is rather slow at the moment to cold to do much. Just a few pictures showing the rear gun tubs and bridge section. For such a small model the amount of detail that needs to be fitted is mind blowing.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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HI Guys I am working on 3 models at the moment repairing and building. Just a few pictures of the Whitehall.
Stan.
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Today I made a 260 mile round trip to source fittings for this build. I would like to thank Ron for taking the time to help out in what is a normal day for him. I know some of you will say the guns do not look like Deans Marine neither is the d/charge rack all from John Haynes fine scale models. Most of my models tend to have fittings from various suppliers.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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First class plasticard work
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I am back the minesweeper is now tucked away and I have stared on this very small model. I will post pictures when the build is taking shape.
Stan.
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Just one picture taken this morning not much done on this model for over 12 months. I wanted to see how it looked on the water with superstructure fitted. To my surprise it sailed very well must do more on this model before the end of the year.
Stan.
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That is going to be one tooled up ship!!!! She's looking fab Stan.
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I have brought this out of the dark cupboard and hope to do more on it this year.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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I have brought this out of the dark cupboard and hope to do more on it this year.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Looking forward to seeing this one done, no doubt it will be as excellent as all your other builds. Your builds are nothing short of inspirational. I'm happy to see that my workbench has the similar appearance to yours, hopefully my current and future builds will be as good as yours!......Heres to hoping!
Cheers, Dave
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Yesterday time allowed to primer the main superstructure all be it is not finished looks better than just white plastic. I placed the 20 mm guns in each tub just to see how they looked and the 3in gun in the forward tub. Other pictures show the stern detail I hope to do some more on this model and have it at Blackpool along with other models showing under construction details.
Stan.
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Managed to do a little more on this model.Hope to have it at Blackpool.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Just checking back in to the thread. Fine work here, you're turning this into a Tour de Force!
Fully understand the stop and go and the stalls in construction. I dropped modelling almost altogether for the motor hobby--go karting, mini bikes and trail bikes. Anything with an engine... and bought a 60's Jeep.
O0 8)
Keeps me outside in the fresh air...which model boating is supposed to also do. {:-{
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This model has been left unattended for some time now so I have decided to build this in conjunction with the Yamato build. So today I have taken out the dreaded terminal block and fitted new cable connectors no screws. Just a few pictures showing the internals.
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Lovely work Stan. She look good on the water :-))
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That Excellway PA 66 :-)) screw less connector blocks are certainly a very tidy solution Stan O0
Derek
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Hi After rewiring the model I realised I dropped a clanger unable to get out the prop shaft's. I am now in the process of making changes to allow the shafts to come out.
Stan. :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :((
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My big clanger is now sorted out prop shafts can be removed. The final drive/steering layout is complete see pictures. Also a shot of the rear deck and props.
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Disaster avoided - nice work Stan.
Regards,
Ray.
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Just a few shots from today showing the brass etch D/C rails on the stern and the forward superstructure. This is held in place with M2 bolts makes life easy when painting the radio on /off switch will be under the funnel when the model is finished. Magnets will be used to hold down the funnel.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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coming on nice Stan
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HI Guys no I have not left been on my hols. Hope to make a start later this week.
Stan.
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Building this once again pictures to follow.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Rx switch under funnel is now complete. Magnet and a centre pin fitted on superstructure to allow this to be removed to turn radio on /off.
Stan
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Just a few pictures showing access to r/x switch. Magnets used once again along with a brass rod and tube to secure the funnel superstructure and cover the switch.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi all Blackpool has taken most of my time this week nothing done on this build.
Stan. :((
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This little model his also having some work next week.
Stan.
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Nothing done on this more next week.
Stan.
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Hope to be back on this next week.
Stan.
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Whitehall on hold at the moment.
Stan. :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :((
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It seems a long time since my last post on this model but hopefully it is on my list to complete in 2021.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) [size=78%] [/size]
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Hopefully my Grand Banks build should be finished in July then it's back to completer this build.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) [size=78%] [/size]