Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: TomP on September 02, 2014, 09:42:56 pm
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Started doing couple of bits on this at moment quick repair and re spray just need to make WTC anyone have rough idea volume of water required to take her down?
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/AEC94BAC-B297-4E2E-9C67-894E41848CA0_zps7srz07tm.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/5B9692F1-C328-43A7-8DD9-E20D7B3C7182_zpstufsdmxu.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/C4CA30A9-0AA1-4434-B0B6-AD0B80438C76_zps5qxpb73a.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/1D1A60A1-3B15-42E1-A880-DD831BD777EA_zpseev02ziz.jpg)
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I know just the fellow you want to speak to. He has a working model of this boat with a commercial wtc module inside and willing to listen to sensible offers.The wtc spares would require 120mm tube, tie rods, pump & motor(s) to complete.
I'll put you in touch.
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Hi Tomp. Another project on the go now? Your wife must love you to bits!
Cheers Tomp.
Phil
Devon
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBMARINE-DIVE-UNIT-ACRYLIC-CUSTOM-MADE-28-LONG-4-3-4-DIAMETER-LOADED-/281427490945? (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBMARINE-DIVE-UNIT-ACRYLIC-CUSTOM-MADE-28-LONG-4-3-4-DIAMETER-LOADED-/281427490945?)
28" long and wall thickness is 3mm.
BTW The auction ends Sunday 7 Sept 2014 and the above link will work for only 3 months
I don't know if you turned this one down or it was not on offer but my unit has a 7" tank minus 1/2" thickness of the bulkheads. The probes are 1" down from the top so basic trig gives you the volume with a margin to spare.
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I saw that WTC is it me or does the ballast section look quite small compared to the WTC size?
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Hi Tomp. Another project on the go now? Your wife must love you to bits!
Cheers Tomp.
Phil
Devon
Hi Phil, hope you are well, yeah well I did sell my motorbike and put a new kitchen in for her so think she is happy at the moment. I have had this for a while been sat in garage just fancied working on summit different for a while. Just waiting for the chance to get a lathe so can do a few things for the other 2 plus make up a WTC
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The module Mike linked to is a Craycraft unit based on Nick Burges design. It uses an air compressor rigged as a vacuum pump to suck air out of the cylinder and is stored in the front section at about 6-7psi. The tank can fill to about 90% because there are probes inside that sense the water level, so the pump doesn't ingest water. To surface a servo controlled air valve releases the compressed air back into the ballast tank, and up you come.
These modules cost over £400 twenty years ago, so they weren't cheap by any means. The compressor was a bespoke item, which ratcheted up the cost. The system works well enough, and is quite efficient as you're only moving air about.
One or two minuses, firstly if you like to dive deep, you should be aware that with the bottom of the tank exposed to water pressure, the air bubble in the top of the tank will compress and gradually the boat will get heavier and lose its trim. This tends to only be an issue if you go beyond three or four feet, but it's worth being aware of.
Secondly if you go beyond 15 feet you can't blow the tank as there is insufficient pressure. This happened to a modeller once who was operating in a pond at Legoland. The pond there goes down to 20 feet apparently, and he ended up needing his boat scraping off the bottom.
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I spoke to Mike today great chap really really helpful he explained about that WTC on ebay and about how the system works and the probes etc that WTC was designed to go in the E class hull I have that's why he pointed it out, it's a bit expensive and personally I like a pump like the OTW and Sheerline WTC's. I have got through work a 12v geared pump that is reversible, 1150ml a minute but best thing for me it's IP68 so will be putting it in the centre part of the WTC to save room and has a low current draw brushless as well just got to ensure don't run it dry
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Pump rate sounds a bit slow.
Craycraft used to make the WTC's for OTW back in its early incarnation. When Brian Cornelius stopped production there was a few years where OTW didn't supply WTC's for their models, after a time the pump based modules appeared, which share a little in common with the older modules in that the air is still compressed inside the dry spaces, although as they have a check valve, you don't have the problem of the air bubble compressing, and altering your trim.
There is always the option of fitting a kingston valve on the bottom of the WTC, however I have never seen this done to date.
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Is the hull scratch built? If not is it still made? I'm interested in getting one.
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Dave Diplock produced them years ago. They're long out of production (at least 15 years), although I suspect the tools are kicking around somewhere.
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Finally all my construction works at home are done and I can start on the subs again. Been working on the E class after getting a decent drawing of it so plane guards have been started and moved the planes to the location shown on the drawing. Had a bit of a problem though one of the front planes has been broken so having to take a mold of the other to cast another in resin.
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/62634DFF-FEEA-477B-9F6F-0DF2B6F80551_zpskzcafwtq.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/DD11123B-4F10-407B-94EF-3DF77D30E07D_zpsxoh4ndla.jpg)
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Hi,
I do have a soft spot for anything First World War. Normally the first Tanks/Landships... but also early Subs. In my house is another unbuilt Craycraft E Class set of mouldings, I got as far as altering the Conning Tower to Royal Navy shape, but that was it.
Are you going to be building yours as the Australian subs AE1 &2 that the mouldings are based on?
Searching around the internet I have gathered all sorts of information, if there is anything you need more info on then just ask.
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A few more...
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Hi,
I do have a soft spot for anything First World War. Normally the first Tanks/Landships... but also early Subs. In my house is another unbuilt Craycraft E Class set of mouldings, I got as far as altering the Conning Tower to Royal Navy shape, but that was it.
Are you going to be building yours as the Australian subs AE1 &2 that the mouldings are based on?
Searching around the internet I have gathered all sorts of information, if there is anything you need more info on then just ask.
Yeah they are quite interesting and you don't see many of them about. To be honest I'm finding it a bit of a mixture of things, the length would suggest group 1 but then the upper casing is more like group 2. I have seen different types of plane guards some wire some a more solid plane so just going to make kind of represent the class of submarine nothing specific. Does yours have a set of plane guards?
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Where do you find these things Tomp? I would love to have a project like that. That would keep my old grey matter going for sure! Keep at it :-)) Regards to you. Phil
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Hi Phil, found this on here some time back now finally getting some more time to work on the subs. I like things a bit different but this isn't really from the era I'm interested in but nice sub and much smaller than my other two
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Yes I have the original resin fittings set, I will try and photograph them for you.
Useful link [size=78%]http://www.rnsubs.co.uk/Boats/BR3043/chapter04.php (http://www.rnsubs.co.uk/Boats/BR3043/chapter04.php)[/size]
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Hi, I had a look at what was with the model and there wasn't a great deal to be honest. I have photographed what I have. The background is a 10cm square I made when researching for a Tank project.
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The last time I looked at the model I did some conversion work to make it more a standard shape. I really should get back to it.
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Hi Unbuilt thank you for the pictures appreciate it. I am hoping to get this running for the Bournville dive in day on September 19th surface runner only though. Fingers crossed should be able to. Like what you have done not much planned on changing things on this maybe later cheers Tom
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The last time I looked at the model I did some conversion work to make it more a standard shape. I really should get back to it.
Come on, get on with it...too many slow sub builders on here %)
( that's me by the way..to whom I refer!)
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Come on, get on with it...too many slow sub builders on here %)
( that's me by the way..to whom I refer!)
Yep... %)
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UBN, that made me laugh :-)) I think I must be the slowest on here! I still enjoy it though. Cheers all.
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Tom, did you ever finish the o class and the s class??
I had to came to a stop on my S class but getting a wee push again into it
As well as a few other things %) %)
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Hi Gingyer, I sold the O Class a while ago now car broke down so needed some cash to get it fixed, still got the S class and the XXI. Been trimming down the amount of projects I have to concentrate on the ones I want to finish. I will get this running as a surface runner then finish the S class
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Yeah trimming down the models .... Tried that and failed...
Got rid of some and ended up with the large scale LA and alpha class subs
Plus some large battleships and cruisers :embarrassed:
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I have no idea if I'm doing this correctly but hey nothing ventured nothing gained!! Made a part for the rear vane protector then took a silicone mold of it find out tomorrow if it worked or went horribly wrong. Gave the hull a quick once over with white primer at least now I can see the markings I make on it going to start a drawing for the deck to get it etched
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/F8D4C101-18DE-4E7C-A4CB-6D1AB9A7FD8F_zpsfgiqavjh.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/32341BF4-22B9-48CC-A564-D8F90B4EFD04_zps0cnr3qxv.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/3F851AB0-3EA5-45BA-ACB9-2131AB7A2404_zpswl03ay6h.jpg)
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If the items are solid and you only need one or two, I find it quicker and cheaper to fabricate items from stock material. Epoxy glass sheet e.g. PCB material is very strong and holds an edge well, polycarbonate is also tough and a little easier on tools.
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Well I allowed it 24 hours to cure and my part came out sooo easy just pull it apart and it popped out. So gave casting a go today and I can't believe how easy it was, mixed the resin to the instructions being careful not to get too many bubbles in there then poured it into the mold. Waited an hour and out it popped perfectly so pleased been kind of dreading doing this as thought it would go wrong. Have to say think this is down to the products I've used Easycomposites certainly lived up to their name.
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/30D7AA54-6E90-4245-B3AE-48C535E8006F_zpshvtnn7uc.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/F9B7FFEA-9876-48B9-8E52-D97F831963B5_zps6ji2k7zk.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/2D9A590C-FAF0-4FF6-A864-251F097BF634_zps0tux85um.jpg)
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Ordered the props for the sub, that was 11 days ago still nothing so gave the supplier a call. They said they would give me a call back with more information, they never called. So rang them again today answer was we haven't got any in stock! so when can I expect them? When we get some bye! Oh Guess I'm waiting then??? Don't think will use them again shame as they seem to be one of the bigger model boat suppliers online customer care very poor, so may not get this ready in time now!
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Unless you want investment cast (prop shop) why not have a go at fabricating some yourself?
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New Plane protectors in place, just started to put some paint onto it now. Doesn't look like I will get the props by Saturday bit annoying still will take it with me to Bournville
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/6016B143-46E6-46E0-9445-51F5375A77B1_zpsnlb0xvft.jpg)
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Hurry up you guys, I'm catching up with you!
The C class build is still moving forward (just).
Check out:-
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=158444
This E class build is all interesting stuff for a novice like me. I certainly will not be attempting any deep dives.
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'Not so hasty Cocker' as my Grandfather used to say. Everything comes to those who wait (in this case build and paint) I like these early boats, they have some interesting shapes and ideas incorporated into their designs.
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Starting to put come colour on it
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/8B1538D0-746F-4CED-B8AF-91AD93328706_zpsv3uffkgj.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/F625F35F-CF8C-4B77-9E76-059D0BEFEDCE_zpsjfti63qs.jpg)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh485/tommy3781/E302FBD9-0599-42DC-A834-3B58920B9F96_zps0qrycf1x.jpg)
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I ordered props for this on 24th August and the money taken that day from a well known supplier, well I have emailed, I have called them I have spoken to them and have been promised a call back that never happens. I have not had an answer on where my item is. I have left messages asking to call me back along with emails but nothing not one call email and no item has been delivered! Now I know it has been well documented on here but I urge any one of thinking of buying anything from them to seriously think about it I have never had such poor service from anywhere else!
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Which Xxi have you got tom?
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Hi Tom I have a 32nd Parallel one slowly working on it doing a lot of research on them, done a etch for the deck flood vents etc building the rear vanes at the moment but very busy with work so construction time is limited
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Hi guys
Nice looking subs.
Looking at the old photos of pre WW1 (particularly Edwardian subs), the grey upper works and hull seem a darker grey than subs photographed during WW1. It might just be the photos, a trick of the light or my failing eye sigh. Looking at threads regarding RN colour schemes for surface vessels over this period the above info is confirmed. "Dreadnought" for instance when launched was dark grey (Humbrol ref: 32).
Does this carry through to subs?
I hope so as I have just finished painting my C class (1906) based on this info.
Any observations?
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Subs are what you pay to your club each year for membership.
Vessels that can dive, travel underwater and resurface are called
Submarines. <*<
Ned
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And Sails are what made HMS Victory go!
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Thanks for pointing out my error (which was typed in haste) but I'm still no nearer the answer to the paint question.
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Not sure, doubtful many people out there still alive knowledgeable to question it one way or another, so paint it the shade you think suits the model. I think darker greys look better personally.
Submarine museum at Gosport may be able to give some further advice, also Barrow submariners association can be useful point of reference.
http://www.rnsubs.co.uk/
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Thanks sub culture. The dark grey does look good but I will contact Gosport out of interest, I already have the link to the Barrow association.
Regards etc