Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Wood Care: => Topic started by: Mike0001 on October 20, 2014, 08:05:48 pm
-
1.5 mm ply
so what do I have, well jigsaw with metal cutting blades, also have a dremel ( just a dremel )
What would be best way to cut ply ( Cutting out the main components of plan ) I would guess I would get lots of vibration with a jigsaw but that's what I have
thanks
-
I think most people would simply use a sharp knife.
Colin
-
A jigsaw is a little overkill for thin ply
Always best to have the right tool for the job*:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-HEAVY-DUTY-SAW-OR-6Pc-SET-Wood-Jewellery-Model-Making-Sawing-Cutting-Kit-/310839320950?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&var=&hash=item485f77a176
*Other fret saws are available*
You could get a powered one but I and many others find you get better control with a hand saw.
-
I think most people would simply use a sharp knife.
Colin
Stanley Knife. That's all I ever use on thin ply - just ensure the blade is sharp (if isn't, then change it), keep your hands behind the blade (been there, done that) and use a guide for the blade, preferably metal.
Also, use several light strokes - Don't force the blade - you'll get through the wood eventually. O0
...Oh, beware of what's lying underneath your work piece as well :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
-
A jigsaw is a little overkill for thin ply
Always best to have the right tool for the job*:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-HEAVY-DUTY-SAW-OR-6Pc-SET-Wood-Jewellery-Model-Making-Sawing-Cutting-Kit-/310839320950?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&var=&hash=item485f77a176
*Other fret saws are available*
You could get a powered one but I and many others find you get better control with a hand saw.
As Essex says, The deeper the throat the better, which is dictated by how big the sections are that you are cutting out.
For smaller sections though, you could use a coping saw.
-
never even thought of cutting with a knife, not sure if I would trust myself though , one slip and blood everywhere
might try the fret saw , that sounds good as well, can go at my own pace which I like
will report back tomorrow with hopefully some shapes cut out
thanks all a great help :-))
-
Always cut away from yourself to preserve your person! A light cut first to guide the blade before exerting pressure.
Colin
-
will report back tomorrow
that's as long as ya still have fingers to type with, lol {-) {-) {-)
and what's a little blood shed in the name of ya hobby............so long as ya haven' got ebola. %% %%
-
I cut thin ply using a Stanley knife against the flat edge of a plaster float - keeps your non-knife fingers well out the way.
-
Hi,
Safest way is to use a steel rule.
Regards
-
One thing I found out about knives.
A good full size Stanley knife (or similar heavy knife) cuts much better than lighter knives, even those with the same blade.
The knives with the snap off blades are never as good.
-
and what's a little blood shed in the name of ya hobby............so long as ya haven' got ebola. %% %%
Any blood on the work piece can ruin the finish. Make sure it drips on the bench or floor 8)
-
You really don't want a standard steel rule for cutting, generally if you slip the blade will skid across the rule to where you are applying the pressure, you need a proper cutting rule, with grooves to trap the blade if it slips, similar to the attached image.
where I worked once Stanley knives were banned totally, I was the one exception as there was no other safer knife to cut the foam mounting boards I used in the drawing office, (the only thing we found able to cut them was over £4000) so when cutting I had to use the relevant cutting rule and wear a pair of Kevlar cut resistant gloves.
Grendel
-
The knives with the snap off blades are never as good.
And dangerous if used for cutting inappropriate materials
-
No modeller is worthy of the name unless they have a good selection of lethal instruments in their toolbox including modelling knives, scalpels, razor saws and other sharp and pointed implements.
Plus glues and other liquid substances which give off toxic fumes.
It's what the hobby is all about.
Colin
-
I agree with Colin, I'm a retired carpenter in a carpenters tool box you'll find more sharp edged tools than anywhere else, I worked with them for over 50 years and still have all my fingers, you just have to respect them and use them responsibly, I always cut thin ply with a Stanley knife, it leaves a nice clean edge.
-
:-)) once cut 5/8"wide planking from a 5' x 3' x 1/16" thick sheet of marine ply
I found buy using a 6' straight edge clamped down on each end of the ply sheet greatly enhanced the cutting procedure without my left hand needing to secure the straight edge & keep it in line
The cutting surface was a redundant internal door O0 ....the cutting instrument was a standard Stanley single blade knife :-)) Derek
-
Use a laser-cutter!
If you have them as an electronic file send them to me and Ill cut out the parts for you.
If not then send them anyway and I see what can be done.
-
That should have gone on to say that I will cut them for you. If not then send them anyway and Ill see what I can do.
-
Any blood on the work piece can ruin the finish. Make sure it drips on the bench or floor 8)
unless yer building a fire boat......then it's well camouflaged :} :} :} :} :} :} :}
-
I use my Proxxon bandsaw to cut any wood (incl. plywood) thicker than 1mm.
-
During my spell as CDT Technician we insisted that students cutting paper, thin wood etc. with a knife, use a "safety Ruler" normal length and width but with a groove down the middle. It either protected the ends of fingers, or channeled the blood away!
-
During my spell as CDT Technician we insisted that students cutting paper, thin wood etc. with a knife, use a "safety Ruler" normal length and width but with a groove down the middle. It either protected the ends of fingers, or channeled the blood away!
It was for the later so you could see to keep cutting till finished.
-
:-)) Steel rule and a Stanley knife,just keep scoring till through or snaps clean :-))
-
If you use an old steel rule and stick medium grade sandpaper on one face with d/s tape, it doesn't slip on the work.
Even better, using a single carpet edge I.e. the one with a 'J' profile (WITHOUT spikes!), again with the sandpaper, you get a 3ft rule with built-in finger guard.
Works for me :-))
-
Hi,
If not for the modeling brigade, Band-aids would go broke.
regards
-
Yes, any type of metal profile with finger protection is way to go. :-)) :-))
Not only for plywood but same "tools" for cutting styrene etc.
Fingers are important and much better using above tools than going to emergency spewing blood everywhere. <*< <*<
You need to keep all the blood you have. O0 O0
-
I would like to see people's pictures of the finger guard cutting rulers please. How many types and recommendations can the members show and which is the best in your opinion.
I am still looking for the ultimate best tool for the job, as I'm running out of bandages.
Cheers
ken
-
As others have said, a Stanley knife with a good blade is adequate for thin ply - it has never failed me. As for safety, I use a length of 3/4" light aluminium angle - safe as houses Kenny! :-)) (I have one of those rulers and found them not very good at protection of my digits)
-
Thanks Nemo. I find that aluminium tends to be shaved (over time) by the blade, so a steel version with a protection shield is the thing to look out for.
ken
-
I have a metre rule, with 2 big grooved for the blade and multiple smaller ones between
-
Ok has anyone used a Chain mail glove....like the ones the butchers use
Dave
-
Thanks Nemo. I find that aluminium tends to be shaved (over time) by the blade, so a steel version with a protection shield is the thing to look out for.
ken
Ken,
A Solution.
Lower the blade angle so it "rests" against the guide.
A near vertical angle will tend to "cut into" whatever guide you are using. Instead of drawing the blade across the surface.
The lower angle puts more blade against the guide, straighter cut less effort reduced slippage.
Unless you change the angle, you will still shave the steel guide and blunt your blades more frequently. O0 O0
I use a cutter with a wide adjustable blade, the snap off type, this allows more or less blade to be exposed for the task at hand.
Also I always re-hone the blade after use, until it is past its use by date, before breaking off the "end".
Stanley knives don't give you very good control during use, as they are more suited for harder, less accurate rougher work.
My other knife is a scalpel, but watch the fingers because it is painless cutting them.
Look closely at a 'Stanley' blade and you see it's cutting edge is 'V' shaped which does not allow accurate cutting along a line or straight edge. The same applies for the adjustable blade knife, however the blade is thinner and you can expose more blade length so that the flat of the blade runs along the straight edge.
My knives are like chisels, different ones for different tasks but the main two used are,
1. Wide break off blade type
2. Scalpel, with several with different blade shapes.
Practice it and see how you go.
-
Hi,
When cutting always use soft strokes.
I use at least three strokes of the blade to make one cut.
Regards
-
As Mr Punch would say - 'That's the way to do it!' :-))
-
Ok has anyone used a Chain mail glove....like the ones the butchers use
Dave
yes, but not for model making. that said I was given a pair of kevlar gloves at work, for use when they banned stanley knives, after finding the alternative to cut the foamboard for the signs I used to make at £30,000 they gave in and let me use the stanley knife - with the gloves (the alternative to cut 3mm foamboard was a powered guillotine).
-
I knew there must be more to it than I thought. Thanks for the ideas fellas. :-))
ken