Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Mark T on November 30, 2014, 04:44:11 pm
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Hi All
I wasn't going to actually post a build log of my Fairmount Alpine due to my lack of experience, but I feel as though I have had so much invaluable help from this forum that its only right to give something back :-)) Well try anyway :embarrassed:
As a bit of a background I am an international truck driver and spend most of my time on the european mainland so my time at home is very precious. This has helped my build though as I have really had to think about each step of the build and how I can juggle all of the pressures on my time.
I have never built a wooden hulled boat before - In fact I've never really built anything out of wood and I knew that I was biting off a bit more than I could probably chew. I also wanted to use this lack of experience as a learning curve with wood and use it when ever possible even though I could see quite a few short cuts if I simply changed materials.
I also wanted to see if I could build longevity into the model by being as thorough as I possibly could. A very tall order but over the last year I think that I have honestly done the very best that I could do up to this point. I am no where near complete and I reckon on another year (or so) of part time work to get it finished but I've done enough to share my experience so far.
Just a quick thanks to Dave (Stavros) who many moons ago pointed me in the right direction for the finish and paint. Cheers Dave you saved me so much trouble :-))
So here we go! I'm going to try and post as much detail as I can even though this particular boat has been done several times on a well known Dutch website. I'm not very good on the names of ships parts so when I get it wrong please put me right as I need to learn! I'll also post when I can as I don't always have internet access.
First things first I needed slipway to make sure that the build was straight from the beginning - and yes that is the dining room table %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1001_zps51523c20.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1001_zps51523c20.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1002_zpsfcf2bd96.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1002_zpsfcf2bd96.jpg.html)
Then it was a case of cutting out the bulkheads and making sure that they were all at 90 degrees to the hull (??) before gluing with aliphatic resin. This actually took me longer than I thought as they tended to twist being such a tight fit. Each bulkhead required a bit of fettling to ensure a perfect fit. The billings kit is fantastic and the lazer cutting is so precise it really is nice to work with.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1003_zps57bc2821.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1003_zps57bc2821.jpg.html)
The strips of wood under the bulkheads helped me to ensure that all was square. I have never taken so may measurements in my life. In fact it was almost as if the skeleton of the boat was locked onto the slipway, it just didn't move from this point onwards which made the building much easier as I wasn't chasing it around and I also knew that it was true.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1004_zps5a69adab.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1004_zps5a69adab.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1005_zps2ad5863b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1005_zps2ad5863b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1006_zpsaf90a868.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1006_zpsaf90a868.jpg.html)
More to follow
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Next to do was the propshaft supports - A simple job of laminating a few parts together and then cutting to the required length and finally shaping and gluing. This was when I noticed that the plywood supplied was quite porous. I have no idea whether this is the norm but I could already see some issues in getting a good finish when it came to paint {:-{
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1008_zps5a39d2bf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1008_zps5a39d2bf.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1009_zpsb1d10a25.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1009_zpsb1d10a25.jpg.html)
As with most Fairmount builds that I have seen on the internet I also decided to fit a front bow thruster. I opted for a Raboash type.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1010_zps410e8ca2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1010_zps410e8ca2.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1011_zpsf1f0a7ad.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1011_zpsf1f0a7ad.jpg.html)
As some wood removal was required to fit the thruster it left the hull a bit weak. This was remedied by epoxying some strengthening pieces on the underside. The result was an extremely strong joint which was stronger than before the excess wood was removed.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1012_zps784b5fc8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1012_zps784b5fc8.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1013_zpsb2d751fd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1013_zpsb2d751fd.jpg.html)
I'm sorry of some of the pictures are not very clear but I took them on my phone!
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The next part was the rear deck. It fitted perfectly and was firmly clamped in place whilst the resin dried
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1014_zps9669bbf6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1014_zps9669bbf6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1015_zps9e0c3fea.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1015_zps9e0c3fea.jpg.html)
Followed by the front deck
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1016_zpse8cee0d5.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1016_zpse8cee0d5.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1017_zps3d29438a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1017_zps3d29438a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1018_zps649f8c8e.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1018_zps649f8c8e.jpg.html)
Followed by the main crane supports and superstructure parts around it. The front of the winch cable outlets also had to be shaped and carved from a flat piece of ply. I really enjoyed doing that part. It took hours but at least I could sit in front of the TV whilst I did it {-) The holes then had to be filed through so that there were no steps between the parts.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1019_zpsa603bcd9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1019_zpsa603bcd9.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1020_zps135ac63e.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1020_zps135ac63e.jpg.html)
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I then moved my attention to the bow and glued the formers in place
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1021_zpsce0666cb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1021_zpsce0666cb.jpg.html)
Next the keel was strengthened by laminating it, and as I was not going to fit a rear bow thruster I removed the rear propeller mount and epoxied a plastic tube through the keel. I did this as I could see that water proofing this part of the hull could prove to be troublesome.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1022_zps99e60154.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1022_zps99e60154.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1023_zps2011cb85.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1023_zps2011cb85.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1025_zpsb6b07e3c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1025_zpsb6b07e3c.jpg.html)
Then I laminated the rudder mounts and spent a bit of time shaping them roughly into their finished shape
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1024_zps32f83d9a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1024_zps32f83d9a.jpg.html)
Finally whilst I had plenty of access I fabricated the motor mounts out of hardwood (I have no idea what type it is) and epoxied them into place. I did this now as i thought that it would be extremely difficult to do this once the bulkheads where covered. I made sure that they were level by fitting the motors but the fool that I am forgot to take pictures with the motors in place :embarrassed: I am using MFA geared motors though and I tried to get the couplings as straight as possible
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1026_zps9c94aad0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1026_zps9c94aad0.jpg.html)
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The stern was next to be laminated and resined into place
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1027_zps6ac8dce7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1027_zps6ac8dce7.jpg.html)
And then the real work started :o I had read that the bulkheads required sanding so that the outer panels and planks sat squarely on each one which in turn made a good joint. My advise for this came mainly from this forum so using a spare plank I spent many an hour sanding the bulkheads so that I could achieve a good shape for the boat and bond between parts. I think this took about 8 - 10 hours work and only later did I realise just how well this effort would be rewarded.
If I learnt one thing from this build this would be it. The time spent here pays dividends later with great joints and parts that fit perfectly. The strength achieved actually surprised me once the joints that were glued later had set.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1028_zps3e61e2d9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1028_zps3e61e2d9.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1030_zps973d490e.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1030_zps973d490e.jpg.html)
Anyway I think that's enough writing for one day - I hope you have enjoyed it :-)) I'll post some more when I can which will probably be next week.
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Hi Mark T
Your build is coming along very nice indeed , as you say the tube supports are end grain and will not take a good finish . I used a easy sand filler NOT a 2pack product,it was just a exterior filler .Took a bit of time ,it's the same on the keel and the stern where the ply disks go on the end of the dowel .I have my hull in 6 coats of primer and all the end grains can not be seen . However I was given the advice on here to tissue it and resin coat the hull but I was to far one to do that ,it's that long since was building I did not know about this method so it was not done .
You are welcome to PM to compare notes any time
Not back to my build yet recovering from new hip no suitable seat in the shed .
David
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Hi David - Yes end grains >>:-( I've had a few issues with this. I don't think that some of the ply wood supplied in the kit is the best to be honest but nothing a bit of work can't get around.
I'm off to Germany now but I'll post some more when I can. I hope the hip gets better soon and the building for you can begin again :-))
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Thanks for posting this build! Will follow for future reference. I built the BB Smit London a few years ago and would like to do this one as well some time. By the way, I covered my hull with cloth and epoxy.
Keep up the good work!
Hama
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Just back from Germany - 3500km this week but that's another story :o
So getting back the build; I had to start putting the outer panels onto the bulkheads if thats the correct term. The first involved steaming the part in question, something which I have never done but it was easy enough when it came to it.
I think I was worried about the ply delaminating but in the end I didn't actually have to get it that hot. I'm sure some of the more experienced builders will be having a bit of a laugh at this point - but honestly I had no idea {-) The instructions that are supplied are only pictorial so do not give much indication of what is required.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1031_zps660c0ab8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1031_zps660c0ab8.jpg.html)
Then with the large side panels I just tried to get the tightest joints that I could. I did find though that they did need a little bit of scribing to get them to fit together perfectly. This took quite a long time for me to achieve but I was pleased with the results.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1032_zps407a9262.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1032_zps407a9262.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1033_zpsbf8a2002.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1033_zpsbf8a2002.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1034_zps9159ed28.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1034_zps9159ed28.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1036_zpsd6174ab1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1036_zpsd6174ab1.jpg.html)
To be honest I probably over did the amount of pins I used and they were murder to get out! It took a good pull with a bit pair of pliers to remove them and the plastic ends tended to shatter. I have since seen on other builds that some builders use small pins and leave them in. I think with hindsight that would have been a better option.
Another thing worth noting here was the shape of the bow. It has a very distinct flat front and is not rounded. I could see issues later on in the build where sanding could actually round the front off and change the shape completely. In the back of my mind I was trying to alleviate this problem somewhat here by getting the joints right at this stage.
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Now for the bow itself - This involved laminating two identical parts around the front and they also required steaming. Now at first glance this seemed easy but I discovered that the parts were not particularly a very good fit. Both parts required scribing to get a nice tight fit. If I had not I am pretty sure that the shape of the bow would not have turned out quite right.
First part fitted
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1037_zps07acbb26.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1037_zps07acbb26.jpg.html)
Second part glued over the top of the first with a bit of rough sanding too.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1038_zpsef6011ae.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1038_zpsef6011ae.jpg.html)
Followed by the lower hull panels (For some reason I don't have many photo's of this but here are the ones that I do have). I do remember thinking that it looked like a porcupine it had so many pins in it!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1043_zps8494fa29.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1043_zps8494fa29.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1045_zps2e01bab4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1045_zps2e01bab4.jpg.html)
Now here was my first real error. The instructions really do not show how to bring that lower panels together at the bow to make a good joint. So having thought about it I did it as per the picture below. Now although I did get a great joint - The way I clamped it together actually squeezed the bow slightly out of shape. I didn't see this until later and it was nothing that a bit of filler couldn't sort out. However if I was to do this again I would clamp it so that the bow retained its correct shape
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1042_zpsd519745f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1042_zpsd519745f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1044_zps6fa3696a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1044_zps6fa3696a.jpg.html)
And just to make sure - some nice hot runny epoxy was poured into the cavities. I bit over kill I know {-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1046_zps94189641.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1046_zps94189641.jpg.html)
Thanks for reading I'll see if I can put some more up tomorrow - Mark
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Next to do was the large bottom panels and then fill in the edges with 3mm stripwood which was easier than I thought it would be. The only tricky bit for me was getting a reasonable fit around the bow thruster
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1048_zpsad04ea68.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1048_zpsad04ea68.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1050_zps96f0f98d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1050_zps96f0f98d.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1051_zpse39da1b4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1051_zpse39da1b4.jpg.html)
At this point I needed to make a good seal between the bow thruster and the hull. For some unknown reason I wanted this to look good and also be strong - anyway this was the result and I hope it stands the test of time. If not I guess I could just fill the whole cavity with epoxy
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1047_zps7ab9673c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1047_zps7ab9673c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1049_zpsff9ac1d9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1049_zpsff9ac1d9.jpg.html)
I then filled in the rest of the voids in the hull using stripwood again
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1052_zps44438c5a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1052_zps44438c5a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1053_zps9a6f11f0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1053_zps9a6f11f0.jpg.html)
The final part of this stage was to finish the rear bulwarks (The part that stops you falling into the sea {-) I'm sure I've got that wrong!) but I have no proper photos of this stage - sorry. I then gave the inside a good couple of coats of epoxy resin including the underside of the decks. This was a really messy job and sanding down between coats nearly drove me mad >>:-(
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1059_zpsfd20d610.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1059_zpsfd20d610.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1058_zpsafe9d7df.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1058_zpsafe9d7df.jpg.html)
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Now here is my first move away from the actual kit. I really didn't like the kort nozzles that were supplied they just seemed to flimsy. So after a bit of internet searching I contacted Mobile Marine Models and spoke to them. They did not know if their parts would fit the Fairmount but I decided to give it a go. Anyway after many hours of fettling and the use of 2 Mr Muscle oven cleaner lids I managed to get a reasonable fit. The plan was to secure them using 2 brass screws and epoxy after the hull was nearly complete. I simply wanted to fit them now to save any possible damage to the hull at a later time
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1055_zps7d568b66.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1055_zps7d568b66.jpg.html)
You can see the supplied kort as a comparison as its also in the picture below
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1056_zpsf78a447d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1056_zpsf78a447d.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1057_zps753c9c2a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1057_zps753c9c2a.jpg.html)
In the end I was really pleased with the initial results and I found that by using 2 screws a fixings it allowed me to adjust their positions very finely. These were then removed until later in the build.
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Hi Mark
Things are comeing along just fine ,are you working with a picture of the real ship as well . There is no mention in the build book of the detail round the blue painted parts of the hull , I made mine out of styrene strip and stuck on with Trend double sided tape its fiddly to get the angles right . When I primed the hull it came out OK ..
David
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Thanks David :-)) Yes I am working with pictures of the ship too and I have added the rubbing strips as you have. Like you I found the marking out very tricky and I'm still no too sure that I got it right >>:-( I'm over a year into this build now and have only managed to finish the basic hull. It would be great to see some pictures of your build too :-)
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Ok back to the build - Next was the forward bulwarks.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1060_zps0433d2e1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1060_zps0433d2e1.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1061_zpsc42021af.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1061_zpsc42021af.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1062_zps80806d90.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1062_zps80806d90.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1063_zpscfb9d345.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1063_zpscfb9d345.jpg.html)
Which was followed by quite a few hours of sanding across the hull
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1065_zps1cc8ff81.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1065_zps1cc8ff81.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1066_zps290a3bb4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1066_zps290a3bb4.jpg.html)
And then the closing of the rear end. These two little pieces really tried my patience {-) . I also started filling the hull to remove as many imperfections as I could. I used Easylite polyester filler as recommended by Stavros. This stuff is so easy to use!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1067_zpsf5ad194f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1067_zpsf5ad194f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1069_zpsff7696e0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1069_zpsff7696e0.jpg.html)
I also glued some small pieces of wood behind the port holes at the front of the hull to seal them off. The kit does supply some plastic for this job but I thought better safe than sorry and I didn't think that it would make any difference to the finished boat.
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Hi Mark
I would love to post pictures but my internet / broadband is so slow it comes back as taking to long to down load .Ive tried resize and it still takes to long ,not tried the IPad don't know about that.
David
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The stern was simply made out of balsa blocks that were then sanded to shape. I discovered that I'm not to keen on working with balsa! I'm a bit of a dab hand at putting dents into it without even realising that I've done it %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1070_zpsb2db836d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1070_zpsb2db836d.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1071_zpsf9bfb902.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1071_zpsf9bfb902.jpg.html)
This stage was followed by - well what can I say - simply hours of sanding and filling.
I'm sure that someone with more experience than me would have carried out this task much faster. It was also the opportunity to put the bow right from my earlier mistake when I glued it together. I was trying to get the hull ready for next stage of either epoxy and cloth or Eze-Kote. I was still undecided as what to use?
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1073_zps303017dc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1073_zps303017dc.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1074_zps874bd18d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1074_zps874bd18d.jpg.html)
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I found the stern on my scratch Anglian Sovereign problematic and required loads of carving and sanding, although I did use some harder balsa so dents weren't a problem.
Once you start to paint it will all look far more realistic. Stick at it it will be worth it in the end. Anglian Sovereign took me several years on and off, with a lot of off!
Pics of the process and the final output.
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After taking some advise I decided to cover the hull in cloth and epoxy. I was daunted by this as I felt that this would either go well or quite frankly ruin all of my work so far. I started by giving it a coat of epoxy.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1076_zpsdaa60e33.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1076_zpsdaa60e33.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1077_zps3033691a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1077_zps3033691a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1078_zps43885aa5.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1078_zps43885aa5.jpg.html)
Then it was just a case of going for it %% I was actually rather surprised just how nicely the cloth went on. It seems like one of those jobs that you don't need to think about too much or it'll put you off! Just going for it worked for me!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1080_zps8040006a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1080_zps8040006a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1079_zps08dbdbde.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1079_zps08dbdbde.jpg.html)
I did the keel in two parts which seemed to work ok. The build also got very expensive at this point. As Patient as my partner is she kicked me out of the dining room which unfortunately meant that I had to buy a proper work bench :-)) :-)) What a blow - I was so happy :}
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1081_zps753d964f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1081_zps753d964f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1082_zps0df646d3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1082_zps0df646d3.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1083_zpseb375aa4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1083_zpseb375aa4.jpg.html)
I'll post some more pics next week when I get back from my travels - Thanks for reading - Mark
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I found the stern on my scratch Anglian Sovereign problematic and required loads of carving and sanding, although I did use some harder balsa so dents weren't a problem.
Once you start to paint it will all look far more realistic. Stick at it it will be worth it in the end. Anglian Sovereign took me several years on and off, with a lot of off!
Pics of the process and the final output.
Hi dougal99 thanks for sharing your pics that boat looks great. Until you said, I did not know that balsa came in different hardnesses. If I could go back I would have preferred to use a harder wood in this area. But at least I know now for my next build.
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Well unusually for me I made it home tonight :} :} :} So I thought that I would do a weekday update.
Next up was the bilge keels. Now there weren't any supplied with the kit so I simply did a search on this website and found some very helpful advice on how to make them. I was unsure what size they should be or what angle they should be placed at, so I looked at as many models on here as I could and tried to copy them as best I could.
I used a fairly hard wood which I got from my local model shop and attached them with epoxy and brass wire that went directly into the bulkheads rather than bending the wire over on the inside.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1084_zps5c9b3fc9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1084_zps5c9b3fc9.jpg.html)
To make sure that they were both at the same angle I made a simple guide and the results were quite good
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1085_zps90696c13.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1085_zps90696c13.jpg.html)
I then sanded them to the shape that I felt was right and then gave them the same treatment as the hull by covering with cloth and epoxy
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1086_zps37aafa2f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1086_zps37aafa2f.jpg.html)
Finally I gave the whole hull a good keying and then gave the whole thing a second coat of epoxy after de-fatting it between coats
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1087_zpsed95f122.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1087_zpsed95f122.jpg.html)
The sanding really started at this point. I now fully understand why many modellers use this base of a finish on their boats. After I had worked my way through many different grades of sandpaper the hull looked like it was made of glass and was extremely smooth. Just right for a sprayed finish. I can honestly say that I am very glad that I took this route and the effort put in was definitely rewarded with a great finish. Oh and the photo above was taken before any sanding commenced ok2 I would estimate that I spent about 12 hours actually sanding the coating into the finished product.
Thanks for looking and I'll get some more up next weekend (Definitely this time :-) )
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Time for an update :-)
I then started working on the railings that are situated on the rear deck. I actually did this out of building order according to the instructions as I felt as though I would damage them whilst doing work on the hull. I don't know whether this was a better way of construction or not to be honest
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1089_zps2f2f0164.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1089_zps2f2f0164.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1090_zpsc80273e0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1090_zpsc80273e0.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1091_zpsaa943c2c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1091_zpsaa943c2c.jpg.html)
Now for the marmite part of my build :embarrassed:
Having read a few build logs on this boat, one of the problems seems to be the rear deck. It is just a flat piece of plywood that is no good at keeping the water out of the hull. After giving this much thought, I decided that I needed to make two rear decks. The first would simply be for show and the second for when the boat is on the water to keep the hull dry inside.
I decided to make an upside down coaming but the first issue was the irregular shape of the rear deck opening. The first thing that I did was to make it a regular shape by fitting strips of wood around the inside
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1092_zpse930605c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1092_zpse930605c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1093_zps1996351d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1093_zps1996351d.jpg.html)
Inside this I fitted a styrene U frame which in turn had a male frame that fitted inside it
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1094_zps857633f8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1094_zps857633f8.jpg.html)
This male frame was then epoxied to a piece of ply which then fitted in place to make it flush with the strips that I had previously fitted
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1095_zps81c9c2dc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1095_zps81c9c2dc.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1096_zps47cfd8be.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1096_zps47cfd8be.jpg.html)
The rear deck was then glued to this structure and when fitted it is not possible to see the upside down coaming underneath
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1097_zpsb94559a1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1097_zpsb94559a1.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1098_zpsfe2bcb23.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1098_zpsfe2bcb23.jpg.html)
I found that the deck really did not sit quite right and as such required fixing into place. I did this using 3mm stainless steel bolts with captive nuts that had been sunk into the wooden strips below.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1119_zps910ffe1f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1119_zps910ffe1f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1120_zps8e819157.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1120_zps8e819157.jpg.html)
Now I know that some people won't like this solution but I'm very happy with it and when its on display I will use the original rear deck (Oh when I actually built it)
Thanks for looking I'll post some more later on - All comments good and bad are very welcome :-))
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I think your lucky to get away with a workbench, your partner is very understanding. The mere mention of resin around my wife and the door is opened for me to step outside <*<
If you fancy a more elegant solution for your stainless bolts for the rear deck try this. Get some countersunk brass screws or bolts slotted not the crosshead type , bolts would be better as they fit your captive nuts. Get some brass wire and form a crescent shape and then solder into the slot at each end of the crescent so they stand proud of the bolt. When screwed into the deck they would look like tie down hoops for deck cargo. The soldering can be done with an ordinary soldering iron and electrical solder, no need to go to silver solder and excess heat.
Forgot to add, they can be turned in by finger and thumb, they don 't have to be screwed down tightly, so finger tight is sufficient, especially if light pressure is applied to the deck with the other hand.
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Hi Mark you have a great build going there.I have the kit too but for various reasons not much done yet. I think it is a great kit & I like the colors too. There is another build on here some place (I think it is Brian 48) He has fitted thruster at the rear too. Mick B.
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Hi Brian - Yes I can't complain :-) My missus is extremely tolerant - thank goodness! Thanks for the advice I really like your idea. I'm going to order some 3mm brass countersunk screws and also counter sink the holes so that they it flush. A great idea to make a feature out go them I'll let you know how I get on :-)) I might even paint them a bright colour so that they stand out!
Hi Mick thanks for the kind words - Your right about the colours. This boat is so bright but for some reason it really suits it %%
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Time for the first coat of primer to see how the hull was looking. I have posted these pictures before but not part of a build log. Before painting, the hull was given a good wipe over with panel wipe and a tack cloth. The results are below
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1103_zps6ebe6f07.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1103_zps6ebe6f07.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1101_zpscfad56e1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1101_zpscfad56e1.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1104_zpsec3e78db.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1104_zpsec3e78db.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1102_zps80e39917.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1102_zps80e39917.jpg.html)
This first coat revealed the flaws in the hull - I hadn't quite got the bow shape right and the stern needed some more work too.
At this time I then permanently fitted the kort nozzles and swapped the supplied prop shafts with raboaesh ones as I liked the idea of them being maintenance free. The korts are secured with two small brass screws and epoxy resin.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1105_zps09266344.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1105_zps09266344.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1106_zps299db5fb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1106_zps299db5fb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1107_zpsba215b1d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1107_zpsba215b1d.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1108_zps669c673f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1108_zps669c673f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1109_zps59957557.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1109_zps59957557.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1111_zps4d649666.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1111_zps4d649666.jpg.html)
I also fitted the first piece of hardware ;) The rudder servo! This was a little bit easier said than done due to the modifications that I had made to the rear deck. I had to position the servo lower in the hull so that it did not interfere with the deck. The tiller arms are modified Raboaesh items that I had to reduce in width and also relocate the locking grub screw. To be honest none of this was particularly difficult it just needed a bit of thought.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1112_zpsa7e06cfe.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1112_zpsa7e06cfe.jpg.html)
Thanks for looking I'll post some more up next weekend - Mark
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Back again so a little update.
I started work on the rear deck which was nice as it was the first time that I managed to get into the detail of the boat. The rear deck has a covering of a few hundred little planks :o I thought that the best way to tackle this would be to set up a small chop station and cut them all out first %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1121_zps98a0fa26.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1121_zps98a0fa26.jpg.html)
The kit comes with full scale plans so it was a case of marking the covering out onto the deck and then gluing them on. I made the job slightly harder as I had glued stainless washers onto the deck due to the screws which secured it down. These will now require counter sinking as my new brass countersunk screws were delivered in the post yesterday :-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1122_zps5b9f305a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1122_zps5b9f305a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1123_zps81907e53.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1123_zps81907e53.jpg.html)
Which continued until the job was complete
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1124_zps87b9d102.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1124_zps87b9d102.jpg.html)
The rear deck was then primed - filled and finished - I used Ford Dove Grey from Halfords as the final colour
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1126_zps117ac473.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1126_zps117ac473.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1127_zps4a799c9f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1127_zps4a799c9f.jpg.html)
The final deck was first given a coat of epoxy followed by a coat of clear lacquer
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1128_zps0b1dc1b0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1128_zps0b1dc1b0.jpg.html)
At the same time I also decided to put the rubbing strips on the hull. These are not part of the kit but they are a very distinctive part of the real ship. I must be honest, I really struggled here. The full scale plans are on a flat diagram that I could not translate into the 3D model. In the end I just did the best that I could. I marked the strips out and epoxied wood into place.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1113_zps8a33ecce.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1113_zps8a33ecce.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1118_zps4a9be854.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1118_zps4a9be854.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1116_zps5ada90d6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1116_zps5ada90d6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1114_zps4b49431b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1114_zps4b49431b.jpg.html)
Unfortunately After I had glued the wood strips on I realised that they were far to thick and looked slightly comical <:( On the real ship they are quite subtle and they certainly weren't that. So there was only one option - Yep sand them down until they were of a thickness that I was happy with! I made so many mistakes doing this but I learn't a lot from the process and I am a lot better at using filler now too {-) I know that it would have been far easier to use styrene; but I wanted to improve my skills with wood - Having said that I would encourage any builder to use styrene and save themselves many many hours of sanding and countless hours of bad language too {-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1149_zps96f0d80b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1149_zps96f0d80b.jpg.html)
And when I was happy I sealed the wood with a few good coats of clear gloss
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1150_zpsc8ffd87a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1150_zpsc8ffd87a.jpg.html)
Sorry that the pictures are around the wrong way :embarrassed:
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Hi Mark
As you say getting the strip detail is a bit of a challenge ,it all worked out in the end . The order of painting will also need some thought , I have not got that far yet I did not want to damage the paint while fitting the electrics ,this has been on hold due to funding ,all being well after a few days beating on the local shoots I should be back on track .
Happy Christmas and prosperous new year
David
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Hi Mark
As you say getting the strip detail is a bit of a challenge ,it all worked out in the end . The order of painting will also need some thought , I have not got that far yet I did not want to damage the paint while fitting the electrics ,this has been on hold due to funding ,all being well after a few days beating on the local shoots I should be back on track .
Happy Christmas and prosperous new year
David
Hi David you are so right about the painting. I have sprayed the hull and it really did take some thinking about due to the amount of detail and recesses that you have to get into. I was also surprised by the amount of paint it took as well to get a good finish. Be careful with the beating just keep your head down :o
Happy Christmas to you too :-)
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Next to do was to give the upper deck the same coaming treatment as the lower one. Once again I used U styrene which is epoxied in place and I also closed two holes at the very front of the opening using ply. Doing this has meant that I will have to modify the upper deck piece slightly but it should be okay when I get around to it
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1129_zps20d3134b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1129_zps20d3134b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1130_zps79a72c87.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1130_zps79a72c87.jpg.html)
Then a little more detail was added. I was trying to put on as many parts as possible that would be painted in the base colours without making the painting impossible
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1131_zpsb7e6d61a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1131_zpsb7e6d61a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1132_zpsb6db3834.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1132_zpsb6db3834.jpg.html)
With the bulk of the upper decks nearing the priming stage I needed to think about how I was going to prepare the wood to get the best finish that I could. I decided on trying eze-kote as I had read some good things about this on this forum. After a little experimentation I found that I could get it on using my airbrush. It just needed a little thinning with water and the pressure turned up on the airbrush. I also used the biggest tip that I had. So back to masking up and spraying 8)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1133_zps056d0830.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1133_zps056d0830.jpg.html)
I'm really glad that I used eze-kote as one of the benefits I found was that because its also a very strong adhesive it seemed to fix all of the parts better together. It also filled any small gaps between the parts
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1134_zpsd6da5697.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1134_zpsd6da5697.jpg.html)
Once the first coat had dried, I lightly sanded the entire topside and then masked up again for a second coat. This was then sanded with some 2500 paper which seemed to give a pretty good finish
As a bit of a break I decided to solder up the motors just to give me a break from the hull {-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1144_zps613b405a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1144_zps613b405a.jpg.html)
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Time for a little more of the detail work. First was to make the hatch handles out of brass wire. To make these I wrapped the wire around a drill bit and then cut them off with a dremel. It was just a case then of soldering them together. The plans suggested that they should also have a small spigot the lifted them off of the face of the hatch. I must admit this was a step to far for me so I didn't bother with that.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1136_zps1729ec3b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1136_zps1729ec3b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1137_zps16600360.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1137_zps16600360.jpg.html)
I had to make a few of these and also the parts which the ropes tie around - sorry I do not know what they are called :embarrassed:
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1138_zps22e76a68.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1138_zps22e76a68.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1140_zps1d88ceaa.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1140_zps1d88ceaa.jpg.html)
Then finally the anchor chain guides and vents were made and fitted. I never did quite get the bend right on the vents even though I annealed the metal before hand. I think I need a bigger vice! I put small pins into the bottom of the vents to get a better fix onto the deck
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1139_zps47d1e512.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1139_zps47d1e512.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1142_zpsc1430114.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1142_zpsc1430114.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1143_zpsdfa3edf5.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1143_zpsdfa3edf5.jpg.html)
You will probably have noticed to that I have placed eyelets into the hawse holes. I got these from our local Dunelm and all I had to do was to trim the length slightly as they were too long. Actually this was very tricky - I held them in a pair of locking forceps whilst cutting the eyelet with a dremel. I had a few shoot off across the room never to be seen again {-)
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Two more small jobs to do before the final coat of primer. The first was to fill the cavities next to the rudder tubes as I expect some water to creep up them and I think trying to get the water out of the cavities would be difficult
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1151_zps13136616.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1151_zps13136616.jpg.html)
Then I fitted a water inlet as I am hoping to make the water cannons working items
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1162_zps82a3d1cb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1162_zps82a3d1cb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1163_zps7c568432.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1163_zps7c568432.jpg.html)
Then for the final coat of primer
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1152_zps829b2690.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1152_zps829b2690.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1153_zps94c9c839.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1153_zps94c9c839.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1154_zps8a5a06d7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1154_zps8a5a06d7.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1159_zpsd8164195.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1159_zpsd8164195.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1157_zps6de3d413.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1157_zps6de3d413.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1164_zps611cc428.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1164_zps611cc428.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1166_zpsc6a73374.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1166_zpsc6a73374.jpg.html)
As per usual I'll post some more when I get a chance. The next photos will be of the final colour going on the hull - Happy Xmas everyone!
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Looking really good!! :-))
Hama
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Looking really good!! :-))
Hama
Thanks Hama :-)
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Time to get some paint onto the hull. I did not have any special paints mixed up for the boat, I simply got the closest colour that I could from Halfords. First a good final rub down with some grey scotch bright to get rid of as many imperfections as possible followed by a good clean with panel wipe and then masking up. First up was the decks - I'm not too bad a spraying but I did find this a difficult job due to the amount of nooks and crannies. I found that the best way to tackle it was to start with the most inaccessible areas first starting with very light coats leaving the big areas till last. I wanted to make sure that there were no bits left unpainted and therefore vulnerable.
Masking up
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1169_zps0f60226d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1169_zps0f60226d.jpg.html)
Then paint (Ford Dove Grey)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1170_zpsbb76d1a7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1170_zpsbb76d1a7.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1171_zpsb282cacb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1171_zpsb282cacb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1172_zps57d3a438.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1172_zps57d3a438.jpg.html)
Not forgetting to get the colour right for the deck drains (If thats what they are called). I wanted the inside to be the deck colour and not the main colour
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1173_zpsc8193de3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1173_zpsc8193de3.jpg.html)
Then a bit more masking up to paint the rear deck rails which added a nice splash of colour. (Volkswagen Brilliant Orange)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1174_zps5da51c52.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1174_zps5da51c52.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1175_zpsa331d8f2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1175_zpsa331d8f2.jpg.html)
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ok2
Hello
I return on the subject
Your installation is not good, the clearance of rudders will not be parallel because the stalks of commands are not parallel I suggest deus servomotor with a cordon Y
(http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/15/37/42/64/gouver10.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/15374264/3654)
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Now for the first main colour which is GREEN
and boy is it green {-) %%
Yet again more masking up - I think it took me about half a day to get this right. There are so many places that are tricky to get too but well worth the effort if you do. This was also the time that I had to mark out the water line. All I can say is I tried my best!
Marking out the waterline
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1177_zps431c845d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1177_zps431c845d.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1176_zpsb06e9274.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1176_zpsb06e9274.jpg.html)
Masking up
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1178_zpsf1e8c67c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1178_zpsf1e8c67c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1182_zps51ed5d23.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1182_zps51ed5d23.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1180_zpsadb184ea.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1180_zpsadb184ea.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1181_zpsbcedd33c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1181_zpsbcedd33c.jpg.html)
Then paint (Ford Signal Green)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1183_zps0144e284.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1183_zps0144e284.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1184_zps205aff9e.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1184_zps205aff9e.jpg.html)
I was pretty pleased with the results once the masking had been removed
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1185_zps4b4e268c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1185_zps4b4e268c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1186_zps8ff461f6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1186_zps8ff461f6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1187_zps65ed6b7a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1187_zps65ed6b7a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1188_zpscd19336b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1188_zpscd19336b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1189_zps313a0c28.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1189_zps313a0c28.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1190_zpsf37c2b86.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1190_zpsf37c2b86.jpg.html)
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ok2
Hello
I return on the subject
Your installation is not good, the clearance of rudders will not be parallel because the stalks of commands are not parallel I suggest deus servomotor with a cordon Y
(http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/15/37/42/64/gouver10.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/15374264/3654)
Hi Gazou - Yes I agree with you. The movement of the rudders will not be exactly equal due to this set up. Unfortunately I cannot use two servos as their just is not enough room. This is the recommended set up by the manufacturer of the kit but I did have to turn the servo around due to my modifications on the deck above.
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And just a few pictures with the rear deck on. This is currently undergoing modifications to the fixings thanks to Brian56 :-)) I'm just waiting for some custom countersunk washers to be delivered sometime in the new year.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1194_zps0c15aac5.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1194_zps0c15aac5.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1195_zpsee1e25a8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1195_zpsee1e25a8.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1196_zps52e1bdb9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1196_zps52e1bdb9.jpg.html)
Thanks for looking I'll get some more up later in the week - Mark
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;)
I agree with you, it is the note but:
You can put two mini slept servomotors I have a friend who made it
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;)
I agree with you, it is the note but:
You can put two mini slept servomotors I have a friend who made it
Actually I probably could do this :-) I'll give it some thought - Thanks Gazou!
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All you got to do to get an equal movement on the rudders is to extend one side of the servo horn this will give you the same movement each side Simples really
Dave
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All you got to do to get an equal movement on the rudders is to extend one side of the servo horn this will give you the same movement each side Simples really
Dave
Hi Dave thanks for the advice but I'm not quite sure what you mean? Any chance of a quick diagram so that I understand it fully - Mark
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Hi Mark
if you use a disc on the servo instead of the arm then turn the rudder arms at an angle you can get the linkages at 90 degrees. this will give fully symmetric movement.
Jim
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Hi Mark
if you use a disc on the servo instead of the arm then turn the rudder arms at an angle you can get the linkages at 90 degrees. this will give fully symmetric movement.
Jim
Ok Jim I really like that idea :-)) Now I can see how this would work and would be so simple to do. Cheers Jim much appreciated :}
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Probably show my ignorance here but wouldn't the rudders benefit from unequal movement as in a vehicles steering geometry where each adopts a different radius for maximum effect.
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Probably show my ignorance here but wouldn't the rudders benefit from unequal movement as in a vehicles steering geometry where each adopts a different radius for maximum effect.
Only a guess but vehicles travel on solid ground and without a differential between the wheels that axle would effectively seize up. Trains have a similar problem which is cured with tapered wheels to stop them locking onto the tracks around corners. Ships/boats would not have this issue but this is only my meandering thoughts!
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Here is a very good subject on the commands of rudders
Use translate or other translators
You can ask me questions
http://modelismenavalradioc.nouvellestar6.com/t10938-commandes-de-gouvernails
I sometimes take ideas on Mayhem :-))
I find normal to offer ideas of the French forum
We are every designers
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If The ESC that DM advises and it is set up ,I have that to do yet ,as helm is applied the props slow down on the inside of the turn, aiding steering .
David
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If The ESC that DM advises and it is set up ,I have that to do yet ,as helm is applied the props slow down on the inside of the turn, aiding steering .
David
David do you mean the action mixer? If so I intend to use this item when I eventually get to that point in the build? - Mark
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Hi Mark have a look at the drawing that DM done for Mick Burke all the parts are there it's in Actions part of Component Shopweb site .
David
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What an outstanding paint job!! I could never, ever produce something like that. She will be a masterpiece once finished. Can't wait for the rest!
Hama
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Thanks David that diagram is great and thanks Hama too. Its coming out OK but photo's do hide a lot if errors :D
OK so onward with some more painting. But first up - you guessed it more masking {-) Time to paint the blue blocks on the hull. If I was doing this again I would paint the blue before the green. It would have been so much easier to mask that way around.
Masking up
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1197_zpsfae3b7b2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1197_zpsfae3b7b2.jpg.html)
Then Painting (Rover Tahiti Blue)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1198_zps1fc54963.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1198_zps1fc54963.jpg.html)
Which turned out ok - It passes the 3 foot test anyway
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1199_zps1c6ceeda.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1199_zps1c6ceeda.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1200_zpsaa1b18fc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1200_zpsaa1b18fc.jpg.html)
I just could not resist naming the ship at this point. I was going to leave it until all of the paint was on but my resolve faltered. The rescue zone decal had to be cut into three parts due to the rubbing strips that I had fitted. The decal was designed for a flat surface.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1201_zps07a110db.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1201_zps07a110db.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1202_zpsd17ca96a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1202_zpsd17ca96a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/1203_zps3da73c05.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/1203_zps3da73c05.jpg.html)
This was a real milestone for me in this build. A ship with a name - simply magic :-))
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A bit more painting - This time the RED
As per usual loads of masking followed by degreasing and a tack cloth before shooting the paint. Once again it was bit awkward getting around the props and korts but a bit of patience on my part and it went ok! The colour used was "Seat Flash Red"
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0717_zpsb31a7dbb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0717_zpsb31a7dbb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0718_zpsf344f23b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0718_zpsf344f23b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0719_zps16961fda.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0719_zps16961fda.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0721_zps4d6ddd3f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0721_zps4d6ddd3f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0722_zps32e1c92e.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0722_zps32e1c92e.jpg.html)
I was pretty pleased with the way this turned out - It proved to me that all of the hours of prep work were worth the effort :-))
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0724_zpsf49b72f4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0724_zpsf49b72f4.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0725_zpscd7b0c9a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0725_zpscd7b0c9a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0726_zps9f77c484.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0726_zps9f77c484.jpg.html)
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Mark that looks superb I would put my name to that paint job with no problems O0 O0
....as I have allways advocated Preparation is the KEY to ANY PAINT job.....attention to detail with Masking like what you have done is the way to go,this is without a shadow of a doubt.Keep up the good work. O0 O0 O0
Dave
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Mark that looks superb I would put my name to that paint job with no problems O0 O0
....as I have allways advocated Preparation is the KEY to ANY PAINT job.....attention to detail with Masking like what you have done is the way to go,this is without a shadow of a doubt.Keep up the good work. O0 O0 O0
Dave
Crikey - Thanks Dave in more ways than one. Back in May via PM you gave me some excellent advice regarding paint and I guess this is the result. I really can't thank you enough for that help :-)
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AH HA another Pupil of Mine I like it {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Dave.....who's head is now far to big for his hat
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Just a little update - Now I know that this is definitely not part of either the kit or original ship, but I decided that it would look better with a white waterline.
This was just personal choice but for some reason I just didn't like the transfer from green to red, it was just a bit severe and I wanted to break it up a bit.
Now there was a bit of an issue of a step on the paint between the two colours so this had to be sanded down. Well it should of but I lost my bottle after giving it a slight rub down. Therefore there is a slight line in the white but nothing I can't live with. I just could not bring myself to rub the join in the paint down any further
Same procedure as before but the whole boat had to be masked for such a little job! You can't beat cut up bin liners for this job :-))
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0750_zpsad38e969.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0750_zpsad38e969.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0751_zps2d3b0878.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0751_zps2d3b0878.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0752_zpsca508409.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0752_zpsca508409.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0753_zps9c714d86.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0753_zps9c714d86.jpg.html)
Note to self - Let the paint dry a bit more before removing the tape. Fortunately these marks were very easily removed but I forgot to take photos but it does look a lot better :embarrassed:
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0754_zps53f1c145.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0754_zps53f1c145.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0755_zps3964b519.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0755_zps3964b519.jpg.html)
I think it looks nice like this and I hope you do too - I'm sure I'll find out in a minute {-) {-) {-)
Oh and if anyone knows how to spray joints without getting a line can you please give me some advice - Thanks Mark
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I do like that. Well done indeed. :-))
Cheers
Ken
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I do like that. Well done indeed. :-))
Cheers
Ken
Thanks Ken for your kind comment :-)) I do like the result but I know many modellers really like being true to the original which is why I was a bit worried about posting this part of the build.
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Hi Mark the White boot topping line looks good ,there is a trick on here somewhere about rubbing down the join line with a finger or thumb Stavros will know . I think it will take a lot of nerve to rub in the join an the paint that has not quite dryed .
All the best and a happy new year .
David
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Hi Mark the White boot topping line looks good ,there is a trick on here somewhere about rubbing down the join line with a finger or thumb Stavros will know . I think it will take a lot of nerve to rub in the join an the paint that has not quite dryed .
All the best and a happy new year .
David
Hi David I did read about that some where but I can't remember where :embarrassed: In all honesty I do not think that I would even try that mainly due to my lack of experience with paint. I just had too much to loose! Happy new year to you mate :)
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Time to paint the stern roller - In hind sight I would have liked to have made this working and I over blended that back with a bit too much sanding. So the paint will have to bring it out
Masking up
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0756_zps4ec4bef3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0756_zps4ec4bef3.jpg.html)
The result
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0757_zps74f10cc9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0757_zps74f10cc9.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0758_zpsdb5aa18b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0758_zpsdb5aa18b.jpg.html)
And then to break it up a bit I edged it with the same blue that I used on the hull
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0761_zps6e14319c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0761_zps6e14319c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0762_zps8725b650.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0762_zps8725b650.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0764_zpsc4655639.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0764_zpsc4655639.jpg.html)
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Hi Mark,
The boat is looking fantastic so far. I'm new to the forum and am just about to start building one of these. I'm a little bit like you in that I haven't built boats before but I have built some aircraft in my time. I keen to now if you intend to convert it to RC or is it going to be static. I'm really keen to RC mine but am looking for some advice on what motors etc. to use! You're doing a great job with the thread, keep it coming.
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Hi Shanew79 welcome to the forum you will certainly find a lot of help here, I know that I have :-)) Thanks also for your kind comments on my build :-)
I am setting up for RC which is why I have swapped the supplied propshafts with Raboaesh items and also installed the bow thruster, different korts and altered the rear deck to make it water tight. I have decided to use MFA geared motors on my build but this is not the only way to go. There is another member David48 who I believe is using a pair of 740 motors in his Fairmount build. There are many options open to you and I guess its personal choice. I'll try and add as many part numbers as I can as my build progresses but if you need to know anything sooner drop me a PM and I'll do my best to help.
Good luck with your build and get some photo's of it up on here :-)
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Great work !!! She's looking really good!!!
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Thanks for the Welcome Mark, from my experience I've found these types of Forums very helpful in the past and I expect no different here. Great to here you are going the RC option, I think this boat would look fantastic on the water, especially with all the bells and whistles on it operational. Been looking at the Action Electronics gear, looks to be good stuff? I think the geared motors will be great with some nice big scale props. Look forward to seeing your progress in the future. As soon as I'm underway with mine I'll post some pics.
Cheers
Shane
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Great work !!! She's looking really good!!!
Thanks bassplayer1 :-)
Thanks for the Welcome Mark, from my experience I've found these types of Forums very helpful in the past and I expect no different here. Great to here you are going the RC option, I think this boat would look fantastic on the water, especially with all the bells and whistles on it operational. Been looking at the Action Electronics gear, looks to be good stuff? I think the geared motors will be great with some nice big scale props. Look forward to seeing your progress in the future. As soon as I'm underway with mine I'll post some pics.
Cheers
Shane
I'm also going to be using Action Electronics Shane - In fact all of the Fairmount builds that I have seen have used them too. I'm going to have working fire tenders and lights; and maybe sound I'm not sure about this yet - Mark
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Sounds Great Mark, I've just been researching a supplier for Action Electronics and Raboesch products here in Australia. So that should keep the shipping costs down.
Cheers
Shane
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Shane
Now that John Darke has retired I don't think you can buy ACTion items from an Australian agent, but Component Shop (who now make the stuff) will supply world-wide. Electronics are not large-volume items so the shipping costs are surprisingly low e.g. £15 for a 1Kg, £250-insured Airmail, tracked parcel. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/shipping/ (http://www.componentshop.co.uk/shipping/) I would suggest initial contact via E-Mail to make sure you get a VAT-Exclusive price!
Let me know if you need any changes to the published Fairmount Alpine wiring diagrams.
Dave M
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Hi Mark
I have put two 720BB Graupner torque motors in my build. Going to use SLA batteries I made up dummy ones out of timber so I could see what room there is . Useing DM drawing I have not gone down the fire monitor route . In the kit it is a piece of ally rod for the monitor pipe work ,instead I used plastic . Buy the quality of your work you will work it out its a bit complicated where the pipe comes through the railings ,again it's order of work . Send me PM and Tel no and I will have a crak with you.
David48
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Hi Inertia
I Am thinking of putting in a cooling fan on my build of Fairmount and trying to control it with temp sensor useing the Alpine drawings would this be possible ? If so how would I go about it ,controlling the fan so it is not on all the time only on a temp rise and cuts of when it cools . There is a lot in the hull and the heat sinks I suspect will need something to dissipate the heat . I know I will have to alter the superstructure to get air flow so the fan is not just moveing the hot air about . If all this takes up too much room it might be a none starter. If there was another battery solution instead of the two the 12v 9amph that would give me more room but I then would need more lead as ballast
Thank you again for your help
David48
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If you are using 720 Torque motors (or similar spec) on 12v with a P94 then you will find that maybe after about a day's continuous running at full throttle you might just be able to feel a tiny amount of warmth on the heat-sinks. In other words don't waste you time worrying about it - it will not be a problem. A fan connected through a thermostat would be a pain in the backside to set up and adjust, especially as the rise in internal temperature would be so small and slow. Just vent the funnels to air if it makes you feel better and you'll be doing more than enough.
As regards the batteries, you trade off weight and size against duration. The 720 motors take very little current and unless you are running a lot of lights, a sound system and fire monitors etc then smaller-capacity batteries would be fine. I would personally use a 9AH 12v SLA battery for the motors and a smaller NiMH pack for the auxiliary functions - say 10 x Sub-C or even AA cells, depending on exactly what functions you have fitted.
Dave M
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Hi Dave M - I am going to use 2 gel 12v batteries mainly as a simple way of ballasting the hull but also because it will run all day without a charge. What I want to do though is set up a charging system through 1 plug that can also work without disconnecting the batteries from any of the systems in the boat. Would you be able to give me any advice regarding how to go about this? Thanks Mark
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Mark may i give you another idea.
A 12v 7ah bat weighs about 2.5kg . A 3s 11.1v 5ah hard case weighs about 320g. My ferry is powerd by x2 720 bb torque motors. Like it has been said they pull naff amps. so a 5ah bat will last a very long time . Here is the good bit . with lead sheet you can get it down very low in the hull a lot lower than a 7ah bat. This will make your boat more stable . If your 7ah bat is fitted so the terminals are at the top,then the top of bat will be above the water line . It was like this in my ferry. I noticed a bit improvment in stability by swaping from x2 12v 7ah bat to a 3s lipo and lead sheet.
john
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Mark may i give you another idea.
A 12v 7ah bat weighs about 2.5kg . A 3s 11.1v 5ah hard case weighs about 320g. My ferry is powerd by x2 720 bb torque motors. Like it has been said they pull naff amps. so a 5ah bat will last a very long time . Here is the good bit . with lead sheet you can get it down very low in the hull a lot lower than a 7ah bat. This will make your boat more stable . If your 7ah bat is fitted so the terminals are at the top,then the top of bat will be above the water line . It was like this in my ferry. I noticed a bit improvment in stability by swaping from x2 12v 7ah bat to a 3s lipo and lead sheet.
john
Hi John thanks for the info - Now I must be honest I know nothing and I really mean nothing about batteries :embarrassed: This boat is going to need a lot of ballast but having said that there is a lot of space in the hull to place lead. I'll have to look into this a bit further as I was also interested in what Inertia said about using 2 different power options. I would like to have one charging point if possible and I don't know if this is possible with different power sources.
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Hi David I did read about that some where but I can't remember where :embarrassed: In all honesty I do not think that I would even try that mainly due to my lack of experience with paint. I just had too much to loose! Happy new year to you mate :)
It's in Painting guide by myself
Dave
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It's in Painting guide by myself
Dave
Ha ha yes Dave it is - I will try and improve next time I just didn't want to mess things up.
Talking of which!! Only joking - Here's a little update. I am glad to say that I have at last reached the last part of the paintwork on the outside of the hull :-)) :-)) I'm sure everyone else is a bit fed up with it too. To put the job into perspective though it has been at least 1 week between colours for drying so its been a 2 month paint job; so far {-)
Anyway onto the last part - There were quite a few minor blemishes that required sanding out which I did with 1200 paper. After they had been removed the whole of the hull was smoothed and prep'd with grey scotchbright. This was an all or nothing job for me; either it would go well or ruin my work so far. I'm glad to say that it went ok.
Prepping with scotchbright
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0766_zpsf1b30fa8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0766_zpsf1b30fa8.jpg.html)
Then the deck was masked up and the hull was given 3 really good coats of clear lacquer after degreasing and tack cloth. I must say that this pushed the rattle cans to the limit of what they can do. The spray pattern was a bit to small for such a big area and as such I had to move far more slowly with the cans than I wanted to.
Also because the cans were being sprayed for quite a long period I found that the lacquer dripped just in front of the nozzle and needed constant wiping to stop it spitting <*< I found this out a bit late but its nothing that I can't easily remove. Here's how it came out
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0770_zps5e7687e6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0770_zps5e7687e6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0769_zpsceceb0cd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0769_zpsceceb0cd.jpg.html)
Now I can't do anything with it now for a week as it needs to fully cure. The lacquer certainly has pulled all of the paint together and from earlier experiments it seems to dry harder than the paint. Its also extremely glossy so at some point in the future I may matt it down with something like testors dull coat but only after compatibility tests. I'm unsure yet so I'm going to leave it for now.
Anyway as soon as its fully dry I will post some nice photo's of the finished paint job. The next jobs on the list are - fit all of the motors and props, install the floor in the base of the hull, work out the ballast and re-work the fixings on the rear deck. I think that I'm going to finish the hull and all of its detailing before starting on the superstructure.
So that's it for now as these pictures are about 1 year of my part time life on this boat but I'll keep this thread as up to date as I possibly can.
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Mark......
1. if one were to read this thread from today going backwards %% ...it would be difficult to comprehend that the hull was sheet on frame construction
2. the final finish on the hull appears to be of a first class professional paint job on a glass hull %)
3. it is amazing that you have attained such a finish with rattle cans
4. congratulations..... :-))
.....Derek
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Wow Derek I honestly don't know what to say - Thanks very much for you comments :-) I'll do my best to get some "posed" pictures up next week. I have loved building this hull but on occasion I could of happily thrown it out of the window {-) I am really looking forward to getting into the detail now I just can't wait!
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Hi Mark
DM has done me a drawing set up to charge two batteries witha a change over switch .I think it's on here somewhere I'll have a look for it . I do have a hard copy in the build file . This is my next job , I will ask Component Shop which are the best connectors to use to plug the charger into charge circuit . As I will be useing two batteries fitted as per drawing when I have all the electrical control gear in getting the batteries out will be a dit awkward .iwill try some pictures .
David 48
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Dave M,
Thanks for the heads up on the oz supplier. Think I might send Action Electronics an E-mail direct.
Mark,
I bought my kit today finally. I'm in the zone and ready to go! Looks a pretty extensive kit when you start to go through it. I have just started today having a rough check that all the parts are there and I have found something missing already, Did your kit come with plastic ladders for the superstructure and deck? Should be 8 in total according to the parts list. I didn't get any!!! Am I missing something here, do we build them out of wood???
Shane
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Shane......without stealing the thread...[Mark T] who I know will not mind ok2......buying from Component Shop in the UK from OZ is a breeze
1. good response to your e-mail enquiry
2. UK postage to OZ is not really that expensive...you get a firm quotation prior to you order
3. ten days from order to reciept
4. no association to the designer :o , or proprietor of Component Shop
Just another happy customer with ACTion products :-)) ........... D O0
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Thanks Derek,
That's good news, I also trying to fid a supplier for the Roboesch Bow thruster as well. You know of any in oz?
Shane
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Hi Dave M - I am going to use 2 gel 12v batteries mainly as a simple way of ballasting the hull but also because it will run all day without a charge. What I want to do though is set up a charging system through 1 plug that can also work without disconnecting the batteries from any of the systems in the boat. Would you be able to give me any advice regarding how to go about this? Thanks Mark
I don't recommend connecting two SLA batteries in parallel, especially when charging. There's a circuit diagram for two batteries at Fig 12 in this article http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/but-i-don%27t-understand-electronics/18054 (http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/but-i-don%27t-understand-electronics/18054) (Left click once over the image to increase its size) - the idea is that you either charge them consecutively or use two chargers.
If you really want to adapt it to use just one charging socket then omit Socket #2 and solder the +ve wire from Socket #1 across the two LH terminals of the switch, so that they are bridged together. The Management cannot accept any responsibility for any damage caused by back-charging etc.
Ref charging different types of power source with the same charger there's only one piece of advice - NO!!! SLA batteries require a constant voltage charge while NiMH and LiPo packs need a constant current.
DM
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Hi Shanew79
Yes the ladders where in my kit just have to make hand rails , double check the winch parts if the are short it might be a problem mine were short,asked the supplier in UK still waiting had to make my own .Otherwise all Ok
David48
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David48 - Thanks mate but DM has added the diagram to the thread. I'll PM you my details so we can have a chat :-))
Shane - Great news!! I hope you enjoy building your Fairmount :-) and yes the ladders were included in my kit also
Derek - This thread is getting better due to the discussion. It would be really good if it turned into one huge Fairmount build thread with as many different versions and contributors as possible. Almost like a reference point for future builders :-)
DM - Thanks very much for the advice and the diagram. I fully understand what you have said and I now prefer the idea of separate charging points. It now makes much more sense to me and the diagram makes the solution simple :-)) - Mark
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I've re-done the drawing to show a P103 in circuit (which is recommended) and also the alternative circuit which uses just one charging socket. Although it appears that the two negative wires from the batteries and the one from the two sockets ought to be connected before they reach the P103, in fact there is just one common copper track for all negative (earth) wires underneath the PCB, so all will be well as shown.
DM
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Thanks guys for a heads up about the ladders, mine has definitely not come with them and I think they would be nothing short of difficult to make from scratch!! also need to find a supplier for the Raboesch bow thruster soon!!
Shane
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DM - Your diagrams are simply brilliant and so easy to follow. One question though; should there be a fuse somewhere in this circuit or would you put one after the P103? If so what kind of amperage fuse should I use?
Shane - I got my bow thruster from http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk and the part number is Raboesch Bow Thruster 108-04 :-))
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Thanks Mark,
They look like they have a pretty extensive range of stuff!! Can you please explain what VAT is???
Shane
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Thanks Mark,
They look like they have a pretty extensive range of stuff!! Can you please explain what VAT is???
Shane
Its an unfortunate thing we have over here - VAT is Value Added Tax. VAT adds 20% to the cost of an item but if it is advertised as including VAT its already added to the price you see.
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Ahh, It's like our GST (Goods & Services Tax) over here. A right pain in the but if you ask me!!! >:-o
Shane
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Hi Shanew79
Have you got round to checking the stanchions yet are thy White metal .Itried to use them with cyno glue thy were rubbish .i had some photo etched iwill still have the art work ,thereshould be some in OZ that can do that . I used straight brass wire not the coiled copper that comes with the kit .
david48
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Have you seen this link: http://www.tugboats.de/fairmount_summit_e.html
Some good detail photos!!!
Shane :-)
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David48
Do you mean the packet of small metal parts for the handrails?
Shane
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Yes that's the one Ithink the American kit are in brass if thy are Ali thy are the same as the EU kit there is hardly two the same .I have used that link to ge detail for the inside of the bridge,good reference picture.The real ship is on its way to Cadiz in Spain this very moment. I track it on AIS I might be lucky and see itin Aberdeen someday
david48
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Yeah, mine are Ali I think. Were you using thicker CA or thinner CA? You could also try using some Kicker to make it go off faster? That would be great, you have to get plenty of pics if you see it!!!
Shane :-))
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All rail work is finished now ,all the joints were soft soldered just some minor clean up where I was too enthusiastic with the solder . Time taken to make a good jig pays off in the end .
david48
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You got any photos of yours handy??? %%
Shane
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Mark
My intention is that the two cables from the P103 would connect into a Power Distribution Board such as the ACTion P102 or P107. These have fuses and also a voltage regulator which supplies power for the receiver. I would fuse the 720 motors at 10A each maximum. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/p107-power-distribution-board-with-power-switch-bec.html (http://www.componentshop.co.uk/p107-power-distribution-board-with-power-switch-bec.html)
Shane
UK VAT is only payable if the goods are supplied to someone in the UK. When posted direct to an Australian address there should be a reduction of 1/6 of the UK retail price (or 20/120) to allow for this. If you order on-line then it's possible that the UK retailer's system won't automatically deduct the VAT, so an E-Mail in advance is always a good idea. Conversely you are liable to pay Australian import tax or GST when the items pass through Aussie customs, although sometimes the Customs blokes over there don't bother with the paperwork if the value is relatively low.
Dave M
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Thanks DM thats my charging, power supply and power distribution all sorted now - I think that Action are going to do exceptionally well out of me very soon %%
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Yeah - and I don't get a penny in commission any more!
BTW the original Fairmount Alpine diagrams (of which there is a total of three) were done for Mick "Irish Car Guy" Burke and appear on the ACTion website here http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/wd.php. (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/wd.php) Just scroll down the list to find them.
I use standard DC Power Plugs and sockets for charging points http://www.componentshop.co.uk/leads-and-connectors/connectors/dc-power-connectors (http://www.componentshop.co.uk/leads-and-connectors/connectors/dc-power-connectors)
DM
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Hi Dave I think those wiring diagrams have helped many modelers on here, so on behalf of all of us thank you Dave. The diagrams are 100% Because of health issues I have not used them yet, but I did figure out how to put a bow thruster in the rear as well. Mick B.( Raboesch part # 108-20)
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Hullo Mick...compliments of the season %)
By saying a Raboesch 108_20 thruster [21 mm width] can be installed in the stern keel plate.......does this mean that the laminated keel plate also has or can be reduced in height [internally] to accommodate this?............. Derek
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Hi Derek
Ihave put a stern thruster in my build there's a fair bit of work involved not so much height but width on account there is not much leeway to cut the thruster ,I have not quite come to term even with everyone help on posting photos . Iwill try and sort some later on today(Sunday 4 Jan) .
david48
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Hi Derek, there is a bit of work involved & two 1MM copies of the pieces that make up that part of the hull/keel center have to be added to add extra strength both sides where you have to cut away the keel but then it is plenty strong. You will have to cut 1 MM on the floor to allow for the two pieces that you put on either side. I think if I remember David 48 did something similar to the way I did it, wait until we see his photos. I think there is something on U/tube too. If we cant sort it out I will get my wife to take some pictures & put them up, she is much better than me at that stuff but I hate asking her to help me with the computer. Mick B. ( I did not have to cut the thruster)it was wide enough with the added side pieces.
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Hi Mark,
Can you tell me the part number of the Roboesch prop shafts you're using???
Shane
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Hi Mark,
Can you tell me the part number of the Roboesch prop shafts you're using???
Shane
Shane the part numbers are Raboesch type no.R301-04. I'll try and watch this thread but I'm back to work tonight and I'm heading out to Paris. I'm not sure where I'm going from there and my internet access is a bit limited but I'll do my best - Mark
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HI Mark
As you are still looking for Raboesch prop shafts, try Deans Marine, they are the Importers, Ron always very helpfull
Mark
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Here is stern Thruster pics I hope. Its A good idea to us the rear keel sections as tempates for the extra sides .I did not and it took abit of sorting making card templates,
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More stern thruster pics
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Is it getting boring yet, more stern thruster
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Doing this alters the hull curve slightly because the keel is wider ,there is not enough material left in the kit so I had to but a sheet of ply the same thickness of the hull. Any more info just ask and I will try to help.
David
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Hi David & Derek the way you did it was just about the same solution as mine. However the 108-20 was not round, it had flat edges on both sides, it looked that it was made that way & when I cut out the shape of it in the 5 pieces that make up the keel at that point it fitted perfectly. However all 5 were very weak so I made two more the same as the originals without any cutting from the center. When you lay the the two bottom pieces in place you will have to allow for the extra width the two added pieces create & cut back both sides to fit in their original positions I checked my mod again & in my case I used 2 MM ply as the reinforcing bits, It does look like it will be O/K. It was at this point I had a stroke in my left hand followed by a very serious operation to my right artery to my brain & all of a sudden boat building was on the back burner, the hand has improved but I am a left hander. There are other effects as well, like no short term memory. Now to the matter of the flag, it flashes all the time & is annoying, I hope Martin can fix it. Cheers for now, Mick B.
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Mick
Off-topic but if you Google "Canadian Flag Free Images" you can save one that you like and replace your forum avatar with it.
BTW no short-term memory isn't unique to stroke victims. Being over 60 is the real cause. O0
Dave M
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Thanks Dave but it looks like Martin was one step ahead, so my flag is flying again, thanks though, there were some nice flags there. Mick.
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Ok time for an update and get this thread back on track {-) Mind you how I got home this week is beyond me with all of the problems at Calais and the Eurotunnel - but I did :-))
Now that the paintwork is finished I have moved onto a few jobs that I have been really wanting to do - Fit the motors!!! I'll put some pics up of the paintwork later
So at last the main motors are in - I set the end float in the propshafts at the same time and they turn very sweetly :-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0798_zps2941fa9f.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0798_zps2941fa9f.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0799_zps1799b71b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0799_zps1799b71b.jpg.html)
And then I fitted the props using loctite so that they don't end up at the bottom of the pond
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0790_zps8bd5b765.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0790_zps8bd5b765.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0806_zpsb345d0b6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0806_zpsb345d0b6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0807_zps6c28e6ac.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0807_zps6c28e6ac.jpg.html)
Followed by the front bow thruster motor, which is wired the same as the main motors with silicone wire
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0802_zpsf9f27ba0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0802_zpsf9f27ba0.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0804_zpsda43c3c4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0804_zpsda43c3c4.jpg.html)
A few pictures of the finished paint work
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0805_zps14c9d83b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0805_zps14c9d83b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0809_zps85d09bf6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0809_zps85d09bf6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0808_zps2459ba6a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0808_zps2459ba6a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0810_zpsa47048e2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0810_zpsa47048e2.jpg.html)
Thanks for looking but I wish I was better at taking photo's - I've also carried out a couple of modifications that were suggested by the very helpful people on this forum and I'll get those pictures up later. I also need some more advice regarding colour - More to follow
Mark
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Hi Mark
Motors looking good ,is the through hull fitting for the fire monitors ,Iasked about electrical cooling and DM said with my installation it would be just warm . It will be a chalange getting water up to the jets takeing in that the superstructure lifts off .
A lot off subject what motor do you use to get about Europe . I worked as a HGV fitter for the Carlisle company Robsons Boarder Transport in the Foden /Albion/ Ford D800 /1000 days .finished up adsheaven plant fitter a lot better .
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Hi David - I plan to connect the fire monitors to the superstructure using silicone tubing. I'll connect it through a simple push fit which should be okay. As for my truck - My latest Euro Tramper is a LHD Mercedes Actros Megaspace. Its a nice motor to live out of - plenty of space and as its a low rider euro spec it does the job I need it too.
Here it is
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0586_zps1d11725a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0586_zps1d11725a.jpg.html)
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So a couple of modifications to improve the build. The first suggested by Brian56 regarding the fixing screws on the rear deck. He suggested counter sunk screws which would sit flush with a soldered half crescent to make them look like deck tie downs. So here goes
Firstly I had to remove the stainless washers that I had epoxied onto the deck. After a few tries I found a very simple method. I fitted a centre drill bit into the drill which simply grabbed hold of the washer and spun in out. I'm sure that the heat of the bit had something to do with it too!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0780_zps0e14d427.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0780_zps0e14d427.jpg.html)
Next was to fit some countersunk washers in there place. Fortunately for me my brother in law works with CNC machines so he turned some custom ones out for me :-)) I wanted to get them as flush into the deck as possible to I had to bore out the existing holes but at the same time keeping them flat on the bottom. In the end I reduced a dremel grinding bit down to the correct diameter and then bored the hole out as deep as I dared. The washers were then epoxied into place
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0787_zps461b0098.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0787_zps461b0098.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0786_zps65ff60eb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0786_zps65ff60eb.jpg.html)
I then made the deck tie downs - I bent some brass wire into a D shape and then simply soldered this onto a M4 countersunk brass bolt. They are a lot stronger than I thought they would be
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0793_zps73d603bd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0793_zps73d603bd.jpg.html)
And when they are fitted they look like this
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0814_zps3c625410.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0814_zps3c625410.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0812_zpsc3ce2e2c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0812_zpsc3ce2e2c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0813_zpsa6cd115a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0813_zpsa6cd115a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0815_zpsec71d962.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0815_zpsec71d962.jpg.html)
I really like the result - Thanks Brian56 for your suggestion :-)) The only problem I have now is what colour to paint them. I'm really tempted to paint them in the same orange as the deck rails %% but they could be red, black or the same grey as the deck. I would very much welcome suggestions and comments on this please.
The second modification was to the rudder servo set up. JimG posted a solution and I have followed his advice. I have changed the servo horn to a round one and reset the geometry on the linkages. The result seems to be a fairly even turn between the rudders
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0800_zps6c5c90c7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0800_zps6c5c90c7.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0801_zps3a846834.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0801_zps3a846834.jpg.html)
Thanks JimG for the help :-)) It might me a while before I get any more work done but I'll try my best - Mark
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:-))...that's a brilliant resolution & lifelike fix.......with respect to painting......an alternative could be Brass Black which will also darken the soft solder.....& let them age naturally.......Derek
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Hi Mark
Any thing that could form a trip hazard is mostly yellow ,like the tiedowns on the ferry ,just an idea .
David
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Once again Mark looking fantastic. I swear that if us guys on the thread didn't know the real story about your experience with Model Boats, it would be easy to assume that you were a 20+ year experience builder. The paint finish is great, I have finally started putting mine together this weekend, and it's going well, almost have the hull completely framed. Keep up the great work with the thread coming!!!
Cheers
Shane :-)
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Glad the tie downs worked for you, this is the system I am installing on my rebuild (Seahunter to POSH Venture)at the moment. As David said, anything that could be a trip hazard is either yellow or orange. This is not just the fitting, imagine a a square painted on your deck and the fitting in the centre of it.
This build is coming along famously now, the one thing I noticed and I don't know whether you intend to or not. The rear bulkhead/towing wall, behind which the winch is located. You have the panels in place between the 'tubing' some of these are actually open 'windows' and not filled, to add super detail take a look online for photo's of the ship.
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Thanks all for the comments I'm really glad you are enjoying the build :-) I know that I am!
David / Derek - Thanks for the advice; I'm going to give the colour a bit more thought. I agree that on the ferries anything on the floor which is raised or generally in the way is painted yellow. This will probably be my colour of choice I'll decide next week.
Brian - A great system and very easy to do :-)) I did notice the windows as you have said but well spotted by you; This is where the winch cables come out of the hull from the main winches located inside. I think at some point I will paint the recesses black just to break them up from the green on the outside.
Shane - Great to hear that you have started you build :-) You probably already know but take your time shaping the bulkhead edges to take the side panels and planking. This job took me ages to get right but you will reap your efforts ten fold when it comes to getting the shape of the hull right and also getting a good finish without too much filler - Good luck :-))
As for me - I'm going to start the detailing on the decks. I've winches, stairs, handrails and pipework to make just to mention a few items. I've no doubt this will take me ages but I'll post up what I can. If I get stuck I know where to ask ok2 Thanks Mark
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Hi Mark
We're you going to use the pipe work up to the fire monitors as in the build book .Trying to get the bends tight out of the alli rod that's supplied did not work for me . I finished up useing styrene tube the same diameter making templates and drawing it out on paper .it was all very time consuming but the end product was good . I used the lobster back method for turning the bends , if you do not know this method to make up bends send me a PM and I will give you a ring at a time suitable to you when the where all glued up the were water tight from out of the deck to the bottom of the spigot that the monitor pushes into . I looked at buying some off the shelf monsters but could not find any small enough .
David
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Just read through all this, fantastic build, another model to add to my wanted list. :-)
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Thanks Sinking Feeling :-))
The update I put up yesterday went missing in the website outage so here it is again {-)
I have now painted the deck tie downs yellow as suggested but one of them is not sitting flush for some reason so I'll have to fettle that at a later date
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0816_zpsch418zp9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0816_zpsch418zp9.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0820_zpsrzpvrfm6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0820_zpsrzpvrfm6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0822_zpsxdbrm5v0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0822_zpsxdbrm5v0.jpg.html)
I've also made a stand to take the weight off of the bilge keels but the baize is a bit thin so I have some thicker on order. It looks ok on the boat and takes the weight nice and evenly
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0836_zps35mejvgl.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0836_zps35mejvgl.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0837_zpspgj5tj47.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0837_zpspgj5tj47.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0838_zpswh5fclst.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0838_zpswh5fclst.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0839_zpsdxn7xcnd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0839_zpsdxn7xcnd.jpg.html)
The floor has been shaped to fit and I am holding this in with screws so that I can remove it. There are some nice areas underneath which will be great for hiding ballast when the time comes
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0840_zpskci3pfhl.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0840_zpskci3pfhl.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0841_zps4ttmi3k0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0841_zps4ttmi3k0.jpg.html)
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Top tip time for when it comes to the dreaded SOLDERING {:-{ {:-{ {:-{ %% %% %%
I have read on the forum that soldering seems to be an issue for some builders especially when it comes to very small and tricky parts so here is my technique
Firstly place the parts in position on a saucer exactly where you want them. The wire in this picture is 1mm brass wire on a very small saucer {-) The put a little bit of acidic flux onto the joint and a tiny piece of solder right next to it so that its touching very lightly
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0845_zpslxifiqov.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0845_zpslxifiqov.jpg.html)
Then apply some heat using one of those cheap pencil butane gas torches. You do not actually need to blast the heat onto the part as this will cause it t move. Just gently move it around the area - and after a few second the solder will melt and run into the place where you put the flux
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0847_zpssap3s0uz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0847_zpssap3s0uz.jpg.html)
Here are the parts on my assembled anchor winch which is now ready for painting - Drilling the 1mm holes was a bit tricky >>:-(
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0850_zpsmwpqryco.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0850_zpsmwpqryco.jpg.html)
I hope that this has helped someone - Mark
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Mark you will get a better join if you use solder paste. But the parts to be joined need to be a really close fit, no good just trimming them off with snippers. The joins have to be filed to close fit before using the paste.
These brass parts on my build were done with solder paste, see how cleaner they are, not so much excess solder to file away.
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Now that looks like a nice clean job - I'll get some of that too cheers Brian :-))
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Mark, this has been a very informative build log, thank you very much for the in-depth detail of your progress.
I have wanted to build the Billings Smitt Rotterdam but have been put off by the 'quality' of the kit and the lack of proper instructions, now the Alpine is a different kettle of fish! Top quality kit, informative instructions, and in the end an impressive looking workhorse. The Alpine is now on my wishlist, and at £260 a bargain!!!!
I have 3 scratch builds on the go (Saturn steam tug, Riva Lamborghini Aquarama and Granit AHTS) so I can drop onto this when I hit snags on those...........!!!!!!
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Hi bfgstew - Yep this is a good kit. The parts all seem to fit nicely and it comes with most of the fittings too. The instructions are just a few pages of pictures there is no narrative with them but they are easy to follow.
I'm currently putting in the electronics which is new territory for me but fortunately I'm getting some great help from another member of the forum who keeps on putting me straight :-)) I'll have another update in a couple of weeks
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Still doing a great job Mark, Keep the pictures coming it's a great help!!! :-))
Shane
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I've just started my build and glad I found this build as its very informative and the tips are great especially the rear deck and rear thruster as I could see this was gonna be a head scratcher ;)
Keep up the good work
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Hello Vts99
Have you checked out the stanchions yet if thy are alli/White metal ,and you want to change them to brass I might have enough left off my build . If there is not a photo etching company in Lochgilhead could still have my art work on file ,that's where I had mine done.
David
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Mine are Ali just checked them , how much was it for brass ones to get done as I'd prefer that as this is my first big build , my last was a graupner Weser and majority of it was plastic railings so 2mins with some super glue and they were done ;)
Graeme
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I've just started my build and glad I found this build as its very informative and the tips are great especially the rear deck and rear thruster as I could see this was gonna be a head scratcher ;)
Keep up the good work
Good luck with your build Vts99 :-))
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Cheers a think I'll need it 😆 but at least it's better than the graupner kit cos the way they word everything becomes double Dutch by the time u finish the sentance plus no pics at all which makes for an exciting build
Graeme
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Vts99
Have a count up and let me know how many you thing you might need plus a few for errors ,there is a picture of the ones I had done you will have to do a search for a A4 sheet it was about £45.00 I think let me know there are some left .
David
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Amazing build :-))
Think I might try this next O0 O0
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Thanks Peter :-))
Just a bit of an update as I've been concentrating on the electrics which are taking a lot longer that I had ever imagined >>:-(
Anyway first up I have painted and installed the anchor winch which has come out ok, and I have also modified my stand to have 6mm of baize for protection and its a nice snug fit now :-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0857_zpssdlcrdui.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0857_zpssdlcrdui.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0859_zpsojk9uati.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0859_zpsojk9uati.jpg.html)
Now for the start of the electronics, the inline fuse holders have been installed and the P94 mixer has been placed in the hull. Its simply held down with velcro for easy removal. The wiring on this unit is very heavy duty which gives more than a hint of the sort of amps that it can handle
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0860_zps2dvjesml.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0860_zps2dvjesml.jpg.html)
I then installed the main P107 distribution board and next to it is a P103 parallel board which is connected via wires around the back
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0870_zpsp2nzxjhy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0870_zpsp2nzxjhy.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0871_zpssleyhbyf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0871_zpssleyhbyf.jpg.html)
I had to extend the wires from the P94 to the distribution board so I used some 3.5mm shovel type connectors to ensure a good connection
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0879_zpsdfisthif.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0879_zpsdfisthif.jpg.html)
These joints were then heat shrinked and the wires braided before being routed up the DB. I have also routed my BEC wire to the rear of the boat which is where the receiver will be
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0881_zpsejoebs2n.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0881_zpsejoebs2n.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0880_zps6zv92hcr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0880_zps6zv92hcr.jpg.html)
Thats it for now until more wire arrives from the component shop {-) I can't believe how much I'm using!
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Hi Mark
As usual things are looking good , I managed to get some more paint on the winches at the start of last week . The order came from Comp Shop on Sat morning so will start to shoehorn the stern thruster controler in ,trying to keep the wiring tidy is really hard . I'll try and post pictures when I am happy with the out come .
David
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Good luck David and you are right it is difficult to keep it tidy which is why its taking me so long. I've still got a P93 controller for my bow thruster and a P91 for the lights and fire monitors to install. Oh and a water pump {-)
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Only a guess but vehicles travel on solid ground and without a differential between the wheels that axle would effectively seize up. Trains have a similar problem which is cured with tapered wheels to stop them locking onto the tracks around corners. Ships/boats would not have this issue but this is only my meandering thoughts!
Hi Mark, I'm new to the Forum and to model building. Like yourself I am starting with Fairmount Alpine, although I have built two full size wood/glass boats in the past so have some idea how things go together. Was also in the Royal Australian Navy for 22yrs and a ship pilot for another 24yrs so have an idea what ships should look like. I have enjoyed your contribution and am very impressed with your model thus far. You have set the bar very high for those of us who follow. On the matter of rudder angles, it is important for twin screw vessels, particularly wide multihulls, when turning that the rudder angle relates to the turn radius for each rudder. Therefore the inboard rudder will have a greater angle than the outboard rudder during the turn. If you look at off the beach catamarans this is achieved by the tillers being slightly angled in, the amount depending on the beam length ratio of the boat, and joined by a cross bar. This automatically ensures the inboard rudder is at a greater angle than the outboard rudder during the turn. If both rudders turn the same amount there will be greater resistance through the water and the vessel will slow and engines will be loaded up, and increased cavitation and vibration will occur. It is particularly important on sailing catamarans when tacking that the rudders are set up correctly. Having said all that I don't know whether the propellers are far enough apart on the Fairmount Alpine model to cause any problems. Thanks again for your very informative posts. Bob
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Hi bobhall
I am also building Fairmount Alpine ,rudder angle has come up before and my take on it is that the the inboard props slows down to compensate ,this is using a Action P94 ESC ,search Billings Fairmount Alpine wiring diagram .I have set my rudder angle at 35° any thing more acts as a brake as I was told ,rightly or wrongly.
I have been on with my build for over two years ,it's a fair take on .
David .
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Hi Bob welcome to the forum :-)) Australia seems to be a very popular country here I wish we had your weather %%
You are correct about the rudders and it was my inexperience that made me set them up the way that i have. If you have a look though the tillers are set at slight angles and the point where the arms fix onto the servo disc is off centre so does not give a linear movement. This solution was thankfully given to me by another forum member and does make the rudders move more like they should.
As David has also already said this is combined with the use of an ACTion P94 electronic mixer. This unit powers both motors and also controls the rudders. When driving forward - If you command port on the transmitter, the mixer will turn the rudders proportionally to your input on the stick and also slow down the port motor and increase the rpm on the starboard motor. I'll soon find out if it all works when it eventually hits the water :o Hey and get me with all the nautical terms - I've been on the forum too long {-)
Good luck with your build and if I can help just ask :-))
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Hi Bob welcome to the forum :-)) Australia seems to be a very popular country here I wish we had your weather %%
You are correct about the rudders and it was my inexperience that made me set them up the way that i have. If you have a look though the tillers are set at slight angles and the point where the arms fix onto the servo disc is off centre so does not give a linear movement. This solution was thankfully given to me by another forum member and does make the rudders move more like they should.
As David has also already said this is combined with the use of an ACTion P94 electronic mixer. This unit powers both motors and also controls the rudders. When driving forward - If you command port on the transmitter, the mixer will turn the rudders proportionally to your input on the stick and also slow down the port motor and increase the rpm on the starboard motor. I'll soon find out if it all works when it eventually hits the water :o Hey and get me with all the nautical terms - I've been on the forum too long {-)
Good luck with your build and if I can help just ask :-))
Thanks for your welcome Mark. We are expecting 41 degrees C tomorrow with a 40% chance of rain - not that pleasant I'm afraid. Slowing down the inboard motor will definitely help the turn and it seems like you have managed to get the rudders doing the right thing. In the real world 35 degrees is the maximum angle for a standard or balanced rudder. Flap rudders which have one or more vertical sections, rather like the wing on an aircraft when landing, can use angles around 70 degrees. The use of these higher angles is normally limited to a maximum of 5 kts of headway and is particularly useful when berthing and unberthing the vessel when hemmed in at the berth. I have started the superstructure and am about to start glueing the panels on the hull. Your advice has been very useful and I am sure will help me save time and mistakes. I started work on the model around 12th Feb and have been able to make good progress, being retired. Like you I'm starting inside the house but I'm not sure how long this will continue!! Keep up the good work. You have plenty of fans it seems. Bob
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Hi bobhall
I am also building Fairmount Alpine ,rudder angle has come up before and my take on it is that the the inboard props slows down to compensate ,this is using a Action P94 ESC ,search Billings Fairmount Alpine wiring diagram .I have set my rudder angle at 35° any thing more acts as a brake as I was told ,rightly or wrongly.
I have been on with my build for over two years ,it's a fair take on .
David .
Hi David,
I have enjoyed reading your input to Mark and others. I hadn't realised one could program the inboard engine to slow down in a turn. On ships that is achieved by manual intervention however with ships becoming more computerised this will no doubt change in the future. You are right about 35 degrees max rudder angle for standard and balanced rudders. I'm sure there is a lot more to the build than one realises. The hull is probably the quick part. There seems to be a great deal of detail on the superstructure. I consider myself fortunate to have yourself and other builders leading the way and providing excellent advice. Bob
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Hi Bob, welcome to Mayhem, most of us on here have one or two screws loose. Where else would find grown men still playing with toys & make the whole thing feel absolutely real, some have just about got their own Navies. I am I must admit just as hooked as all the rest. I too am building the Fairmount Alpine but because of health issues I am at a stop right now. You will find lots of help on here but don't forget to say please & thank you, you will find it goes along way. I hope you have a nice time & you can always ask for help when you need it. Mick B.
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Hi Bob, welcome to Mayhem, most of us on here have one or two screws loose. Where else would find grown men still playing with toys & make the whole thing feel absolutely real, some have just about got their own Navies. I am I must admit just as hooked as all the rest. I too am building the Fairmount Alpine but because of health issues I am at a stop right now. You will find lots of help on here but don't forget to say please & thank you, you will find it goes along way. I hope you have a nice time & you can always ask for help when you need it. Mick B.
Hi Mick B, Thanks for your welcome and your kind advice. Very sorry to hear of your health issues and trust you will be well enough to continue your boat real soon. You are right about the help on the MB Mayhem - already I have found the support and advice outstanding. I am sure I am going to enjoy the forum. Thanks. Bob
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Test Notification post for Bob - please ignore this post everyone! :-)
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Hi Bob,
I would also like to welcome you to the thread and the forum. As one of your fellow countrymen I can honestly say you are among mates here. You will find the advice from Mark and the boys great and helpful throughout the build. I am also enjoying the build of my first scratch built boat and if you're in need of any advice you only need to ask. Billing kits seem to be great and are very forgiving. Can't wait to here of your progress. Enjoy!
Shane :-)
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Hi Bob,
I would also like to welcome you to the thread and the forum. As one of your fellow countrymen I can honestly say you are among mates here. You will find the advice from Mark and the boys great and helpful throughout the build. I am also enjoying the build of my first scratch built boat and if you're in need of any advice you only need to ask. Billing kits seem to be great and are very forgiving. Can't wait to here of your progress. Enjoy!
Shane :-)
Thanks Shane for your welcome. I'm enjoying the Billing kit - it seems to go together very well. The challenge for me will be finding a transmitter which will do what I want without having to pay a fortune. The Robbe Futaba F14 Navy Twin Stick would meet my requirement but it is 40MHz system which I understand isn't recommended in Australia. My work on the kit has slowed up because of the time I'm spending on the net and phone getting advice and then sourcing equipment which needs to be fitted in the near future, the first item being the bow thruster which originally I wasn't going to fit. Enough of my rambling. Cheers, Bob
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Bob, buy the tx/rx system you can afford and then for extra switching, add one of the many multi switches that are available, these give you switching of many devices from one channel of the tx.
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Bob, buy the tx/rx system you can afford and then for extra switching, add one of the many multi switches that are available, these give you switching of many devices from one channel of the tx.
Thanks Brian. That sounds very good advice.
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Hi Bob, I have an F14 & it is one clever radio. You do not need it with all the bells & whistles available but one module alone added to it will bring it up to 36 channels I think. You do not need tank steering if you fit your boat with the ACTion P94 unit & you get 20 amps on the two separate ECS it has built in plus it has a built in mixer as well (it will not work with brushless motors) you do not need them in a tug like the Fairmount Alpine anyway. If you have any questions go ahead & ask Mick B.
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Time for an update as at last I have finished the electronics installation and the wiring. I must at this point thank Inertia as he has answered all of my many questions and has also helped me understand how it all works. I have found this part extremely frustrating at times but i now understand the systems so much better which will make things easier for me in the future.
I've not done step by step photo's as I don't think that they would have made sense. So here are the pictures of the finished installation. All that's missing are the batteries and the receiver as I haven't bought these yet.
I have installed a P94 mixer which is set for 100% mixing for this type of boat. A P93 which is set at 7.2v and is the speed controller for the forward bow thruster and finally a P91 which is set in two ways. It is a momentary switch for the fire monitors and a latching switch for the lighting system. The receiver will be fitted next to the P91 when I eventually buy my radios %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0909_zps0ywdtpmy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0909_zps0ywdtpmy.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0905_zpsscc087dv.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0905_zpsscc087dv.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0903_zpsxem1zubz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0903_zpsxem1zubz.jpg.html)
The completed main distribution boards
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0906_zps1thr3igz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0906_zps1thr3igz.jpg.html)
The 2.5mm plug is for the power up to the main superstructure so that I can disconnect it when I take the top off
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0907_zpsyudtdyuk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0907_zpsyudtdyuk.jpg.html)
The water pump for the fire monitors
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0908_zpsvpb9pft0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0908_zpsvpb9pft0.jpg.html)
I think there's about 7m of wire in the polyester braiding :o :o :o I think it all fits ok and I've tested it with a meter and it all seems ok. I'll have another update at the weekend as I've been very busy working on the detail which is going really well
Thanks for looking and contributing to the thread - Mark
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Hi Bob, I have an F14 & it is one clever radio. You do not need it with all the bells & whistles available but one module alone added to it will bring it up to 36 channels I think. You do not need tank steering if you fit your boat with the ACTion P94 unit & you get 20 amps on the two separate ECS it has built in plus it has a built in mixer as well (it will not work with brushless motors) you do not need them in a tug like the Fairmount Alpine anyway. If you have any questions go ahead & ask Mick B.
[/quoteThanks for the information Mick. I have had a close look at the F14 and it is certainly impressive. The only issue with it is the 40MHz frequency which I understand may be an issue in Australia. I need to check that out thoroughly. Being a retired marine pilot I would prefer to operate the 'engines' independantly so I can manoeuvre the vessel in a realistic manner. Thanks for your offer to answer my questions, of which I am sure there will be many over the coming months. Bob
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Time for an update as at last I have finished the electronics installation and the wiring. I must at this point thank Inertia as he has answered all of my many questions and has also helped me understand how it all works. I have found this part extremely frustrating at times but i now understand the systems so much better which will make things easier for me in the future.
I've not done step by step photo's as I don't think that they would have made sense. So here are the pictures of the finished installation. All that's missing are the batteries and the receiver as I haven't bought these yet.
I have installed a P94 mixer which is set for 100% mixing for this type of boat. A P93 which is set at 7.2v and is the speed controller for the forward bow thruster and finally a P91 which is set in two ways. It is a momentary switch for the fire monitors and a latching switch for the lighting system. The receiver will be fitted next to the P91 when I eventually buy my radios %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0909_zps0ywdtpmy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0909_zps0ywdtpmy.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0905_zpsscc087dv.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0905_zpsscc087dv.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0903_zpsxem1zubz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0903_zpsxem1zubz.jpg.html)
The completed main distribution boards
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0906_zps1thr3igz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0906_zps1thr3igz.jpg.html)
The 2.5mm plug is for the power up to the main superstructure so that I can disconnect it when I take the top off
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0907_zpsyudtdyuk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0907_zpsyudtdyuk.jpg.html)
The water pump for the fire monitors
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0908_zpsvpb9pft0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0908_zpsvpb9pft0.jpg.html)
I think there's about 7m of wire in the polyester braiding :o :o :o I think it all fits ok and I've tested it with a meter and it all seems ok. I'll have another update at the weekend as I've been very busy working on the detail which is going really well
Thanks for looking and contributing to the thread - Mark
Nice work Mark. It really look the business and the workmanship is inspiring. Thanks for all the posts and photographs. Bob
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Now that is a very neat install of electrics, I just hope when I get to this stage with mine I can come somewhere close to this, congratulations mate.
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Where did you get the braiding from looks really neat
Dave
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Thanks for the nice comments :-)) It took me soooo long to do this part of the job %%
Dave - Here's a link for some 8mm braiding but it comes in all different sizes. I used 3 different types with this installation but its really cheap - 5 meters for under £4. There's plently of videos on Youtube on how to use it. But basically when you cut it you need to burn the end with a flame to stop it unravelling. Then simply seal the end with heat shrink once the wires in. As you can see I've also done all of the receiver wires which involves removing the plugs but its simple to do and looks good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-8mm-Expandable-High-Density-Polyester-Sleeve-Braid-Cables-Wires-5-13mm-/261160057548?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cce5a3acc (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-8mm-Expandable-High-Density-Polyester-Sleeve-Braid-Cables-Wires-5-13mm-/261160057548?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cce5a3acc)
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Thanks for that
Dave
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Hello
Can you explain to me to what are of use all the fuses
Very beautiful realization
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Hello
Can you explain to me to what are of use all the fuses
Very beautiful realization
Hi Gazou - well I'll do my best! The main distribution board has two halfs which each powering more than one circuit. These combined circuits are protected by 15amp fuses. Then each motor has its own fuse of 10amps. I think that technically the motors do not actually need any separate fuses but the small boards that I used made the wiring so much easier to do. And that my friend is as much as I understand :embarrassed: Sorry. Oh and I also guessed the fuse sizes so there were no ingenious calculations there either {-) I've just realised what a cowboy electrician I am!
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Looking right proper job! :-))
Probably a daft question but I'm good at those :embarrassed: where is the intake for the fire monitors?!
Pete
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Under the water ?? {-) {-) {-)
Ned
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Under the water {-) {-) {-)
Ned
{-) {-) Cruel yet funny %% %% Hi Peter its not a daft question at all. If you look on page 2 of this thread you will see that I expoxied a water intake nipple onto the bottom of the hull. The pump is self priming so no issues with it drawing the water up into itself :-))
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Not being cruel. Having seen the aformentioned posts I thought it was
a funny question.
I would never belittle or be cruel to another forum member.
As a retired electronics engineer I am impressed by your wiring
It looks very professional.
Ned
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{-) {-) Cruel yet funny %% %% Hi Peter its not a daft question at all. If you look on page 2 of this thread you will see that I expoxied a water intake nipple onto the bottom of the hull. The pump is self priming so no issues with it drawing the water up into itself :-))
Thanks mark! :}
As to you ned......pffffthhsss!!!
{-)
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So be it
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Not being cruel. Having seen the aformentioned posts I thought it was
a funny question.
I would never belittle or be cruel to another forum member.
As a retired electronics engineer I am impressed by your wiring
It looks very professional.
Ned
Cheers Ned - The biggest issue that I always seem to have when doing this sort of thing is the routing of the wiring. I always seem to either leave the wiring short so that it pulls tight or the opposite where I have too much spare. I guess it must just come down to experience! Also I knew you was only joking LOL - I do have a wicked sense of humour it has got me into serious trouble on more than one occasion :embarrassed:
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On with a bit of detail :} This is the bit that I've been itching to do as it brings the whole thing to life.
First up was the railings. The method I used was to place a piece of masking tape on the boat and mark out the positions of the posts. I did this because I didn't want to damage the paintwork that I had already finished
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0884_zpsgbuwf31w.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0884_zpsgbuwf31w.jpg.html)
I then drilled these markings into a scrap but flat piece of wood and then placed the stantions in the holes. I then passed the brass through the stantions and simply soldered them up.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0885_zpsmqr5lqxr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0885_zpsmqr5lqxr.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0886_zps4rglxvwq.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0886_zps4rglxvwq.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0892_2_zpsaw1lfrnt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0892_2_zpsaw1lfrnt.jpg.html)
I think the results have come out ok. For those who are building this model you will notice that I have changed the stantions for brass ones supplied by Billings. This is just my personal choice
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0894_zpstojzgyet.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0894_zpstojzgyet.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0883_zpsuqpdplcg.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0883_zpsuqpdplcg.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0902_zpskizb1np3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0902_zpskizb1np3.jpg.html)
Then I made the detailed parts on the starboard side and fitted them. Nothing at this stage is actually glued in because I want to paint all of the parts first
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0899_zpsdudhi9ot.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0899_zpsdudhi9ot.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0900_zpsvkq9mqcd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0900_zpsvkq9mqcd.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0901_zps6azsqpi2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0901_zps6azsqpi2.jpg.html)
I did modify these down lights as the kit supplies some little wooden parts which are supposed to be glued onto the end of the brass wire but honestly it looked awful. So I made up a piece out if brass tube and soldered it on instead
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0898_zpsazroemym.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0898_zpsazroemym.jpg.html)
I've also had a go at making the hand rails for the stairs. Very tricky but I'm getting there
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0912_zpswpzr4zlx.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0912_zpswpzr4zlx.jpg.html)
The only part I'm unhappy with are the "Upside down J Pipes" on the deck. I think they my be some kind of overflow or relief exit from somewhere inside the boat. I have used the 5mm copper bar supplied in the kit but I just cannot get it to bend correctly to look right. If any can suggest a different material I would be very grateful :-))
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Hi mark
I see what you meen about the vent pipes, I used a large fence staple cut down to size , I then filed the end flat and drilled a small hole and glued in a panel pin to act as a spigot ,then polished it up with emery tape and as with all the brass I gave it a coat of zinc chromate primer . I liked your idea for the cable sleeve so I will pick some up from RS on Tuesday did you use shrink sleeve supplied for the job or just standard sleeve . I will get back to my build just finished the wife's hobby room .
David
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Hi Mark,
The rails look good.
Will they get painted on the jig?
If so, they will be easy to glue in place with a
short bit of paint free leg to go in the deck holes. :-)) :-))
Ned
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David - What a good idea! Where did you get the fence staples from and I take it they were brass? As for the braid ebay is probably the cheapest place and you can use any type of heat shrink you like :-)) If you have any issues I'll help you out
Ned - Yes I was planning to paint them on the jig. Fortunately the tails are quite long and they are a really good fit into the deck. I was thinking about cleaning them in coca cola before degreasing them to make sure that all of the flux and impurities are off!
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Hi mark
Sorry if I missled you thy were just ordinary galvanised staples ,if you want some I will send you some . If you have to buy them you will get a bag of half a kilo to many and never be used again . Where I live I have a lot of fence to keep right . Thank for the help with the braid but have to go to Aberdeen on Tuesday to take the wife to hospital for a check up so will have all day to put time in so it will be down to the harbour to see the oil support ships.
David
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Thanks for the nice comments :-)) It took me soooo long to do this part of the job %%
Dave - Here's a link for some 8mm braiding but it comes in all different sizes. I used 3 different types with this installation but its really cheap - 5 meters for under £4. There's plently of videos on Youtube on how to use it. But basically when you cut it you need to burn the end with a flame to stop it unravelling. Then simply seal the end with heat shrink once the wires in. As you can see I've also done all of the receiver wires which involves removing the plugs but its simple to do and looks good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-8mm-Expandable-High-Density-Polyester-Sleeve-Braid-Cables-Wires-5-13mm-/261160057548?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cce5a3acc (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-8mm-Expandable-High-Density-Polyester-Sleeve-Braid-Cables-Wires-5-13mm-/261160057548?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cce5a3acc)
Dave you can also get the braiding from Hobbyking.com out of china
Regards
Shane
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Thanks Shane for your welcome. I'm enjoying the Billing kit - it seems to go together very well. The challenge for me will be finding a transmitter which will do what I want without having to pay a fortune. The Robbe Futaba F14 Navy Twin Stick would meet my requirement but it is 40MHz system which I understand isn't recommended in Australia. My work on the kit has slowed up because of the time I'm spending on the net and phone getting advice and then sourcing equipment which needs to be fitted in the near future, the first item being the bow thruster which originally I wasn't going to fit. Enough of my rambling. Cheers, Bob
That's cool mate just take your time, no rush. As for the transmitter, I've got a JR 11X, which is a 2.4GHZ radio. This is quite an advanced type of radio used for mainly RC Planes and Helicopters, which is where my main RC experience comes from. I is truly a fantastic piece of equipment but you certainly don't need that level first up. As I said to one of the other guys on the thread, check out Hobbyking.com. Some great gear available at very cheap prices. They have a warehouse on the southern highlands of NSW and the post within a couple of days anywhere in Oz. In fact all of you guys on the thread should check it out if you haven't already. Some great toys for all us big boyz. Ha Ha!!
Shane
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That's cool mate just take your time, no rush. As for the transmitter, I've got a JR 11X, which is a 2.4GHZ radio. This is quite an advanced type of radio used for mainly RC Planes and Helicopters, which is where my main RC experience comes from. I is truly a fantastic piece of equipment but you certainly don't need that level first up. As I said to one of the other guys on the thread, check out Hobbyking.com. Some great gear available at very cheap prices. They have a warehouse on the southern highlands of NSW and the post within a couple of days anywhere in Oz. In fact all of you guys on the thread should check it out if you haven't already. Some great toys for all us big boyz. Ha Ha!!
Shane
Thanks Shane. The JR 11X looks the business with flexible software. I'm surprised that someone hasn't modified the software/display for use as a tank and boat model transmitter. Bob
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Hi Mark
What's the trick in fitting the braid,made a start today all a bit frustrating ,I was making up the batterie chargeing circuit . I finished up using a pen top to thread the wire through .it took me some time to find a solution that worked for me .
David
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Hi David - Push the wire into the end of the braid. Then stop it from going any further by pinching the end of the braid against the wires. Next push the braid towards the pinch point from the end that is not on the wire and you will see that it expands and then wants to move up the wire. Then simply release the pinch point and it will just shoot up the wire.
Heres a Youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C6tLH2pvVo&spfreload=10 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C6tLH2pvVo&spfreload=10)
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Hi Mark.
I got there in the end ,the vidio was good never thought about the heat gun . I bought some shrink tape from RS components , Ifound this very useful . Still got a few feet to cover .
David
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Great build, and great workmanship too. Very nice model.
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A bit of an update - Looking back I was unhappy with the way I had made the life raft supports. They simply looked like spiders legs and I had also missed out the cross supports as at the time I thought that they would not matter. Lesson learnt there <*< .
So to put this right I made up a little jig to get them right. I also used solder paste for the first time which was recommended to me by someone from this forum. It made the job so much easier and I was pleased with the results.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0922_zpsirxnj5yn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0922_zpsirxnj5yn.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0924_zpsvwpy035k.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0924_zpsvwpy035k.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0926_zpsis3jxnzw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0926_zpsis3jxnzw.jpg.html)
Then it was back to the painting. I used etch primer for the first time which goes on great but smells horrible :o
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0930_zpso1uccdwm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0930_zpso1uccdwm.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0914_zpszzys5zi7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0914_zpszzys5zi7.jpg.html)
Next I made up the rest of the forward deck parts and finally got the finishing coat onto everything. I haven't got any step by step photo's of this stage as its just repetitive but here are pictures of the results.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0931_zpsu1nbwzbf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0931_zpsu1nbwzbf.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0932_zps8x8jjoqn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0932_zps8x8jjoqn.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0910_zpsm60awtow.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0910_zpsm60awtow.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0934_zpsbfcjnoil.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0934_zpsbfcjnoil.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0933_zps1miaau5k.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0933_zps1miaau5k.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0937_zpsvqif2vio.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0937_zpsvqif2vio.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0938_zpshtbtkfo6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0938_zpshtbtkfo6.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0939_zpsjkd8fcvu.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0939_zpsjkd8fcvu.jpg.html)
Next to do are the stairs and then some of the detail on the lower deck
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Great work Mark and some very neat wiring :-))
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Hi Mark
I was wondering where you had gone ,I've had all my deck fitting made for weeks ,just got round to painting as you say the etching primer has a bit of a niff with it , who's paint are you useing .
I am thinking about trying to make the crane names myself out of decal inkjet paper . It will take a bit of working out to set it out ,I've trailed the net and can not find a correct aspect picture to try and grad one . Still looking good
David
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Bottom right of this page, text in red. The first link is a brochure showing Macgregor equipment fitted on the Fairmount
http://www.cargotec.com/en-global/macgregor/solutions/offshore-support-vessels/Pages/default.aspx
Deck cranes were MacGregor Plimsoll
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Hi Brian
Thank you for the link I will troll through it but on first glance I can not find the Plimsoll name , it's bed time now so will look tomorrow .
David
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:-))
Although I do have to say the boom that displays the name Macgregor has more impact.
Fairmount Summit by the way.
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Hi David I'm still here 😀 just been very busy. I've changed jobs so I'm back in the UK on car transporters. I've done some detailing work and should have an update in a few weeks after I get back from Barbados 😃.
The paint I used was all from Halfords and good luck with your painting. Nice pictures Brian I'm surprised quite how well mines starting to look like the real thing!
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Hi David,
I'll resurrect this topic seeing as its been a week or two :embarrassed: back to the deck cranes. Specifically Plimsoll, I'm doing this because amazingly it is fitted to my build as well. On my photo's I thought the crane was by Palfinger, but on magnification of the photo's it does say Plimsoll.
This is probably because Plimsoll is a far eastern (Singapore) company and this is where my ship was built, a bit of background. Plimsoll was purchased by Macgregor, who also form a larger company alongside of Semco, who wonder of wonders own Palfinger in Europe- a tangled web!
Well the point of all this is that there are ZERO diagrams of Plimsoll cranes available to download, the only link was on the parent homepage that I posted earlier, but hte link is broken for all their downloads! Sooooo, I think you will find that a Palfinger diagram will get you close to what is actually fitted and they are available! That is what I am currently basing my crane on.
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Thought this photo may interest you, it not the Alpine but another from Fairmount, the Expedition. Size for size anchor handlers really do have some oomph behind them!
Notice on some of the ships they have the web address of the company on the front rather than the IMO number, the logo is now tucked away on the port and starboard superstructure walls. I have seen photos of the Alpine in both guises- imo number and also the logo, so it looks like when it went in for a splash of paint things have changed. I t depends on time period of your build as to which to adopt.
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Thanks for the picture Ido not know what time frame Mark is using but my build is to the best of my ability is new ,so it will be before Boskalis took Dryfuss over .
On with trying to paint the hull but fighting the weather down to 10° and very damp ,I missed the summer day we had
David
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Hello Mark,
just discovered your build and I'm very impressed :o
it looks great
there's a lot of attention to details !!!!
it's a pleasure for the eye :-))
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Crikey you really understand the power of these ships when you see pictures like that :o Thanks for sharing Brian
I will have an update soon - life has taken over some what but I'm back in the workshop tomorrow. I have missed working on my build so upwards and onwards :-))
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Ok time for some small updates - sorry its been so long but I've been too busy to get on with the build. Right time for stairs and pipework :-))
Having made the railings for the stairs which I found to be very tricky it was time to get the paint on them. I had a little production line on the go!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0943_zpsfm6rbwza.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0943_zpsfm6rbwza.jpg.html)
A couple of pictures of the fitted stairs
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0951_zpsha5cbclt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0951_zpsha5cbclt.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0952_zps7vamadol.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0952_zps7vamadol.jpg.html)
Next up was the pipework that goes from the winch housing to the rear deck. I messed up a bit here as I only took a couple of photos >>:-(
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0949_zpsmidnw4qw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0949_zpsmidnw4qw.jpg.html)
Then how they look painted albeit on the other side of the deck
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0953_zpsydlpvrk2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0953_zpsydlpvrk2.jpg.html)
Then some smaller pipework - This is 0.5mm brass which I found difficult to paint for some reason. Even though I used etch primer the black paint just did not want to go on smoothly. I guess its just the small diameter of the brass?
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0957_zpsoxsc4xml.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0957_zpsoxsc4xml.jpg.html)
Then DISASTER <*<
I wanted to paint the recesses in the winch house black but even though I used the same paint that I always have I have a big reaction which ruined the finish
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0955_zpsplllkzst.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0955_zpsplllkzst.jpg.html)
Not to worry though I spent a few hours rubbing it back and painted it to its original green. The masking up though was something to behold.
I'll get some more pictures up later - Thanks for looking Mark :-)
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The next job was to finish the winch house. This involved making and fitting the winch pulley and also making the winch ropes. I didn't use the rope supplied in the kit I used some wax coated rope instead.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0956_zps7xxsilwo.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0956_zps7xxsilwo.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1003_zpsh9ffro81.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1003_zpsh9ffro81.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1005_zpsik3xphlg.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1005_zpsik3xphlg.jpg.html)
Now that I had finally finished the pipework on the lower deck I could make and install the rail strengtheners.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1099_zpsnaxc40bk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1099_zpsnaxc40bk.jpg.html)
Which obviously needed painting %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1104_zpsd3z76l55.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1104_zpsd3z76l55.jpg.html)
And then fitting
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1105_zpsujewhlfi.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1105_zpsujewhlfi.jpg.html)
Next was to paint and fit some winch bollards (I think I made that name up {-) )
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1106_zpsxca8zb6c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1106_zpsxca8zb6c.jpg.html)
So thats the lower decks finally complete :-)) :-))
I'm currently working on the rear deck lighting which I have converted to mini LED's. I'm really unsure whether to leave them in the grey that they currently are or to paint them white or green. They are going to be fixed to the winch house so if anyone has any thoughts on this please let me know.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1108_zpskhbyonlc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1108_zpskhbyonlc.jpg.html)
They are very bright :embarrassed:
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1109_zpsuirxdk3x.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1109_zpsuirxdk3x.jpg.html)
Just a picture of where I have now got to on this build
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1111_zps5wbnfiyf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1111_zps5wbnfiyf.jpg.html)
So my final jobs left before starting on the superstructure are to make the four winches that are located on the lower decks and install the lower deck lighting. I'm sure I'll have another update soon - Thanks for looking Mark
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Coming along nicely.
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Things are looking good Mark ,as we have said before different methods different ways , I am on with doing the Orange work ,I wish I had painted it before it was all glued up , as you say the masking is a thing to behold I've to do the green yet which ever way round I've done I wish I had done it the other way . Ah well if I had built it as Fairmount Summit I would not have to contend with the cross tubes from the hull to the inner bulkheads . Have you the batteries yet if so what are you using .
David
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Brian / David
Thanks for your comments - David the painting of this boat is a test and I agree which ever way you do it there are benefits and negatives. I deliberately left the cross tubes until now as i could not see another way of painting the deck and also getting the pipework in without real hassle. It seemed to work ok for me anyway. The masking though - Well I have spent more time masking and cleaning than anything else. As for batteries I am definitely running 12v big un's {-)
I have the room and they will be great ballast and everything that I have installed runs on 12v too. I did make one major error though - The very rear hatches are in completely the wrong place. I discovered this today when I installed the winch bollards. To late to do anything about it though.
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Been waiting to see your progress Mark, and the wait has been worth it, coming along very nicely indeed.
Your lights may benefit from adding a small current limiting resistor, just to drop the brightness a tad, just a thought..........
Look forward to the next phase on the superstructure.
Stewart
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Ta Stuart - I have to be honest I am loving building this kit
Its a standing joke now within my family and friends about when its going to be finished {-) . I want to have all of the winches in by the end of July and then get on with the superstructure. I find the big building fine its the detail that seems to take all of my time when I've got it.
When I do eventually get it on the water i think thats going to be one amazing day for me :-))
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Hi David - I plan to connect the fire monitors to the superstructure using silicone tubing. I'll connect it through a simple push fit which should be okay. As for my truck - My latest Euro Tramper is a LHD Mercedes Actros Megaspace. Its a nice motor to live out of - plenty of space and as its a low rider euro spec it does the job I need it too.
Here it is
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0586_zps1d11725a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0586_zps1d11725a.jpg.html)
Hi Mark, I have been running through the posts on the Forum and noted the discussion on the rudders. In twin screw vessels in the real world, and particularly in multihulls which have large beams, the rudders are only ever parallel when in the midships position. This is because when turning, the inner rudder is following a tighter radius than the outboard rudder. the amount of offset required takes into account vessel length and the separation of the rudders. I haven't bothered to work out the offset required as I assumed the connection shown in the kit had already taken the offset required into account. It probably won't make a big difference on this model but it can lead to cavitation, breaking effect and stalling when turning if the rudders aren't set up correctly.
I noticed the motor mount bracket on your installation is below the gearbox. The same motors delivered to me have the mounting bracket under the motor itself. Did you modify or move the bracket? The 301-04 shafts are longer than the shafts supplied with the kit and it will be difficult for me to mount the motors with the bracket in its supplied location as it locates on the frame.
I am well into the painting (and sanding) of the main hull. The real challenge for me at present is soldering up all the various components. I have found the guardrails particularly difficult.
The forum, and particularly your posts, have provided excellent advice and helpful hints. Thanks, Bob [/quote]
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Hello Bob thanks for the nice comments :-)). Yes I did turn the motor mount around as I was in the same situation as you. It's an easy job - if you pull off the gearbox cover you will see the screws which hold it all together. All you need to do is remove the gearbox and turn the mount around. I hope this makes sense and really good luck with the painting
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Hi Mark, I have now tried to turn the motor mounting bracket around but it doesn't clear the gearbox. I notice you are using a lower ratio box than I am which may account for the bracket not clearing the gearbox. I am using an 11:1 ratio which I hope will result in a fairly accurate scaled speed and bollard pull.' I will have to investigate the availability of a deeper bracket. Regards, Bob
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Hello Bob thanks for the nice comments :-)) . Yes I did turn the motor mount around as I was in the same situation as you. It's an easy job - if you pull off the gearbox cover you will see the screws which hold it all together. All you need to do is remove the gearbox and turn the mount around. I hope this makes sense and really good luck with the painting
Mark, I have discovered the reason why my mounting bracket can't be rotated. You have the smaller diameter gearboxes on your motors. I hadn't realised there was a smaller diameter gearbox available on one of the MFA series motors. I will either have to source a deeper bracket or workout how to fit the current bracket. Bob
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There are two Alpine builds going on at the moment so I will post this on both of them. I'm not sure how far you have got with the focsl deck, but this has a wealth of detail that you may want to add.
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Thanks Brian for posting the Focsl deck photo. I am painting the decks final coats tomorrow and now have a clearer idea what to mask up etc.
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Glad to be of assistance Bob.
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Thanks Brian just finished the foredeck ,I painted the bollards in the deck colour and thy looked lost to me ,gone to all that trouble and thy were not very visible ,so I have done the in satin black . On with trying to come up with a more secure way to fit the superstructure . Thank you for posting the picture . Trying to keep to the original paint is s bit of a bind when I did a search some pictures were one thing and a few months on it had changed again .
David
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I'm building the alpine too but jus got hull boarded out at mo , I was thinking along lines of neonidium magnets to hold forward island on if that helps 😃
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I had thought of that ,but when the supper is built it all is a bit fragile , and if the magnets have a good hold its not very good to get hold of and trying to pull apart and it comes up suddenly I for see damage happening , I built my supper first gave it 4 coats of paint also the deck had 4coats then they would not fit together had to sand the deck back to bare wood to get them to fit .
David
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Uh oh I never thought of that 😁😁😁 think I'll sand a small gap before painting and maybe try fitting a secure support from deck up through structure to allow it to be taken apart safely when I do mine but keep up the good work as I've been following this and has helped a lot
Graeme
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An interesting scenario here Brian60 %)............I wonder what Classification she sails under with one FWD anchor :embarrassed: housed only?.......
I thought that both DNV & Lloyds required two FWD anchors to be housed and operational?? ... Derek
Courtesy of a WEB page for the Fairmount Alpine build.......
"The forecastle deck carries a Kitagawa Kogyo anchor winch with two gypsies and two warp heads, and chain stoppers"
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I did wonder Derek. But I think there are clues there, why so many crewmen on the foredeck? they must be waiting to do something? Why is the firehose run out across the deck?
It's not beyond reason they are about to pull a new chain through, the hose being used to hose it down?
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Brian....most vessels of this class have salt water washer sprays mounted in the hauser casting assemblys........these are generally interlocked to spray on the incoming chain when hoisting........ Derek
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Brian thanks very much for the photo's - Its great to see that I've actually painted the deck and its fittings in the right colours :-)) Its also strange seeing the actual ship as I know it so well as a model!
I literally have yet again had no time on my build and its really starting to grate on me - I think I may have to take a holiday to get some decent work done. I have done a little bit but hardly worth mentioning but here it is anyway.
After converting the rear deck lights to LED's it was time to mask up and paint them
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1168_zpsj2veqlim.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1168_zpsj2veqlim.jpg.html)
I then fitted them to the winch house but they are in a different place to where they should be. This was due to my lack of forward planning and I couldn't put them in the right place without seeing the wires so I had to compromise
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1171_zpsstzuomes.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1171_zpsstzuomes.jpg.html)
Ans here they are all lit up :-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1172_zpshwebdntq.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1172_zpshwebdntq.jpg.html)
I also managed to forget to put in place an electrical outlet for the lower deck lights so I had to break out some of the completed wiring to get this in. Yet more wiring but at least I have power in the lower deck now should I need it for anything else
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1174_zpsdlb6wr4d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1174_zpsdlb6wr4d.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1175_zpsqcu9tcmy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1175_zpsqcu9tcmy.jpg.html)
Sorry for the lack of progress but thanks for looking anyway - Mark :embarrassed:
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Mark you are doing a super job so don't rush. I am sure you will be much happier with it when you finish it, I am following it with great interest, thanks for all the updates. Mick B.
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Now don't fall off of your chairs but i have managed to make some much enjoyed progress %%
I made a start on the winches on the lower deck
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1200_zpsdjvrvw8c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1200_zpsdjvrvw8c.jpg.html)
And also the protection rails - At least I think thats what they are :o
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1201_zps9ynctsjy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1201_zps9ynctsjy.jpg.html)
There are five winches in total - The biggest sits on the very upper deck which I haven't started yet
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1202_zpsq7gc6slf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1202_zpsq7gc6slf.jpg.html)
I then prep'd them for painting by giving them two air brushed coats of EZ coat and a quick rub down
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1204_zpsdnpu9ze6.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1204_zpsdnpu9ze6.jpg.html)
And then gave them a good prime and top coat
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1205_zpsyatmyvuu.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1205_zpsyatmyvuu.jpg.html)
Here they are in situ but without any rope wrapped around them. Thats because I'm waiting for the paint to fully harden first
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1213_zpswfczffg0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1213_zpswfczffg0.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1214_zpsbp2jwlje.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1214_zpsbp2jwlje.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1215_zpsfbedavyn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1215_zpsfbedavyn.jpg.html)
Finally I finished off the lower deck lighting by fitting some warm white LED's under the stairs each side. This proved to be much harder than I first thought and took me an entire day to fit and wire so that the wiring was virtually invisible inside the hull.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1218_zpsv7zfaztw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1218_zpsv7zfaztw.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1229_zpsal0fnmeo.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1229_zpsal0fnmeo.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1225_zpsgeosh7ir.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1225_zpsgeosh7ir.jpg.html)
I'm pretty pleased with the results - You will have to excuse me in the shots but I'm holding a temporary power supply in place to light everything up!
Well thats it for the lower decks its all complete according to the kits instructions ;) So now I'm moving onto the superstructure which by the time its finished if it works out correctly will have loads of working lights and working fire tenders.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
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Good to see the progress Mark ,it's all looking very good ,I worked the other way round ,I am on with the pipe work along the sides , have you a plan for the radar ,good man Stan pointed me in the direction for a motor so that's to sort next . All looks very good more power to your elbow .
David
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Thanks David 😀 I've not thought about the radar yet so I'll have too now as it will soon be upon me.
I found the pipe work you are doing quite straight forward except for were it goes vertically up through the small boxes on the winch house. As the boxes are attached with 3 small supports getting the whole thing aligned was quite a challenge. Good luck 😀
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Hi Mark
I found some pipe and small valves and pipe flanges from EMA Plastics so the pipe work is not to paint as it comes in self colour. Some of the valves just needed to be cut down . It looks ok to me when I have it made up. I will have ago at the other side today (Tuesday).
David
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Just been fitting the RIBs on to the cradles ,in hind sight I wish I had fitted the cradles ot the RIBs and the fitted them into the deck ,reason the cradle shape is a bad match to the RIBs s. and keeping them square is a bit fiddly . Thanks Stan the Rader scanners are fitted and work .
David
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Would be great to see some photo's David :-)) I've started the superstructure and I seem to have been soldering railings for hours and hours {-)
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At last I'm really glad to say that david48 has managed to send some photo's over to me of his Fairmount build :-)) So here they are - Nice build David :}
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0077_zpsldclp531.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0077_zpsldclp531.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0076_zpsbtkaxtxg.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0076_zpsbtkaxtxg.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0074_zpsskbtoatv.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0074_zpsskbtoatv.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0073_zpsjgslu3qm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0073_zpsjgslu3qm.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/IMG_0072_zpsowgl4wr4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/IMG_0072_zpsowgl4wr4.jpg.html)
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The winches are now fitted and I'm really pleased with the way they came out %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1233_zps4hpt3pzw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1233_zps4hpt3pzw.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1234_zpsgfra9r32.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1234_zpsgfra9r32.jpg.html)
Upwards and onwards so I've started building the superstructure. Firstly I had to modify the deck that the whole structure sits on as earlier in the build I had modified the front hole in the hull (Crikey that a tongue twister {-) ). I reduced the aperture by gluing some scraps into the hole
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1237_zps9ghf1hkz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1237_zps9ghf1hkz.jpg.html)
And then reproduced the same inverted coaming as I did on the rear lower deck. This was slightly tricky as the deck is not flat it has a slight slope on it
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1238_zpskyrobayx.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1238_zpskyrobayx.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1240_zpsegh4ygjj.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1240_zpsegh4ygjj.jpg.html)
I used cling film to stop the whole thing sticking to the deck whilst the epoxy dried
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1241_zpsmsjbaclw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1241_zpsmsjbaclw.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1242_zps71p5trur.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1242_zps71p5trur.jpg.html)
And once tidied up a bit this is how the coaming came out. It fits nice and snug and hopefully with a bit of Vaseline applied it will keep the worst of the water out
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1247_zpsqmzc9dbx.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1247_zpsqmzc9dbx.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1248_zpsc5mvtiif.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1248_zpsc5mvtiif.jpg.html)
I'm managing to get a bit more time on my build now and I'll post some more up later - Thanks for looking :-))
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Next job was to start work on the railings. I used my favourite way of making these by using jig. I have found that not only is its easier to get the right shape I like the way I can paint all of the railings at the same time without any paint going onto the parts that need gluing onto the deck. I tacked the deck to a piece of wood and drilled all of the holes through onto it.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1251_zpslr4kix31.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1251_zpslr4kix31.jpg.html)
Which then let me mark out the railings shape.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1252_zpsosqd5xqh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1252_zpsosqd5xqh.jpg.html)
Then I just started putting it all together using nails fixed into the board to make the bends as accurate as possible.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1261_zps4hb31wnd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1261_zps4hb31wnd.jpg.html)
The ones I have done have so far turned out ok and I'll keep adding to this board until I have all of the railings finished
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1262_zpscsd6qj4k.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1262_zpscsd6qj4k.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1265_zps6irasbtm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1265_zps6irasbtm.jpg.html)
I have now started building the upper superstructure and one thing I have to say about billings kits is just how well they fit together
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1263_zpspc6bcthn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1263_zpspc6bcthn.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1264_zpsn1grgrsq.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1264_zpsn1grgrsq.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1266_zpsqpwrcvnz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1266_zpsqpwrcvnz.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1267_zpszk8yyevo.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1267_zpszk8yyevo.jpg.html)
While I have plenty of access I gave the inside a nice couple of coats of finishing epoxy
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1273_zpszj3cbxhw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1273_zpszj3cbxhw.jpg.html)
And finally the deck is glued in place
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1275_zpszt6v7mk2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1275_zpszt6v7mk2.jpg.html)
I've got a lot of forward planning to do now as I want to get all of the wiring etc as neat as possible as the build continues
Cheers Mark
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Hi Mark , things are looking very good , I've just finished fitting the top reels what I failed to relies the deck camber made them tip outwards slightly so had to make up tapered fillets to set them upright , if you want I can seed you some self adhesive copper strip I bought a roll to run round inside the superstructure as a negative rail so I could reduce the amount of wire .if you have not made your cranes yet I have just discovered that the boom rests are to short , that might be me as I made up a hydraulic ram so it could be a fraction longer the the build book.
I will send you some more pics tomorrow please feel free to post them
David
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Yes I know what you mean about the winches sitting at an angle due to the deck camber. I got around this by sanding the bases at a slight angle to offset this problem. It worked great but I then glued one of them on slightly twisted >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( I still haven't sorted this out as it will take a lot to put the deck paint right. I may just leave it! Thanks for the offer of the tape - I'm not sure yet how I'm going to do the wiring but if I need some I'll let you know :-))
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That looks like a great way to do the stanchions / handrails. I'll have to attempt that myself when I reach that stage. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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A bit of an update %%
I have carried on marking out the next level of railings to make things easier with the making and painting of them. I'll make them later today
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1276_zpscwysb5fc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1276_zpscwysb5fc.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1278_zpsvddd2g0c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1278_zpsvddd2g0c.jpg.html)
Now this is the point where I have decided to move away from the recommended construction sequence of the superstructure. The instructions say that you simply carry on building upwards but this would make painting,glazing and wiring the inside of the bridge very difficult. So I have decided to build upwards but to make each part removable which will hopefully make the overall build easier for me. So instead of gluing the bridge roof supports into the lower deck I have glued them into the bridge roof and then simply work backwards.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1279_zpszgikgm1o.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1279_zpszgikgm1o.jpg.html)
Which is then placed on the lower deck dry with no glue
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1280_zpspzrdegpl.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1280_zpspzrdegpl.jpg.html)
I then used the same process with the next level making it so that it would slide together with no glue
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1281_zpsju177pti.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1281_zpsju177pti.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1287_zpskgfs2x0x.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1287_zpskgfs2x0x.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1288_zpsyqxmcrhv.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1288_zpsyqxmcrhv.jpg.html)
It all seemed to work okay so far and I didn't have any problems until I started putting the bridge side walls in place!
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I realised that to fit the bridge side walls I should have chamfered the bridge roof to accept the angled side walls. Now that the roof supports were in place this was going to be difficult. So if you are building this boat make sure that you chamfer the roof before gluing anything together. I think the pictures will explain better
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1289_zps7i7hoaaf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1289_zps7i7hoaaf.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1290_zpsbbvkrace.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1290_zpsbbvkrace.jpg.html)
Once I had sorted this issue out I started fitting the bridge walls which have many angles that require sanding to get a good fit
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1291_zpsbjl790ck.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1291_zpsbjl790ck.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1295_zps8kasyxgk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1295_zps8kasyxgk.jpg.html)
I really enjoyed doing this part - Just loads of patience and it all comes together nicely :-))
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1296_zpszhphot3s.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1296_zpszhphot3s.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1298_zpsmgehxkec.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1298_zpsmgehxkec.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1299_zpspavvx5ba.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1299_zpspavvx5ba.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1309_zpsx1sjqu0q.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1309_zpsx1sjqu0q.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1310_zpse4wvgbsn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1310_zpse4wvgbsn.jpg.html)
Next I tacked it all together with small drops of cyano and hoped that my plan of it all coming apart would work - It did!! %% %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1311_zpsqtsmctwb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1311_zpsqtsmctwb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1312_zpstgbuvglm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1312_zpstgbuvglm.jpg.html)
I've now brushed aliphatic resin into all of the joints and I'm leaving it all to dry. I really hope that this method will make the build much easier. Only time will tell.
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Thanks for the update Mark. I can assure you finishing the superstructure when in one piece is difficult, to put it mildly. I believe you have hit on a great solution and wish I had thought of it. You have achieved an excellent fit all round and fitting windows and painting will be so much easier. Even the pipework should be simpler. I would start the superstructure again using your method if I could obtain the relevant plywood parts. Oh well that's not likely so I will have to soldier on. Great work!! Bob
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Hi Mark,
This is coming along nicely, I really like your method of setting the stanchion rails, you should drop a patent on it..... :-))
Lots of ideas and building methods to help me with the build of my Granit.
Regards
Stewart
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Hi Bob - well so far so good the structures do go back together ok so I'm very pleased about that. I did however get one corner wrong mainly due to the way I have decided to construct it. And what a pain it has become to put right >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( I must have filled it about 10 times now but its starting to come right now. I think taking time to get the joints as accurate as possible pays dividends.
Hi Stewart - I've been watching your build of Granit and I thought how similar the hull layout looked to the Fairmount. Yours should be a great build and I'll be watching.
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As you have found out it's a pain all the angles that's how I made mine ,have you kept all the cut outs and the stuff left from the laser cut sheets . I used the piece out of the top bridge deck and put a bit of detail and it is some where to fix the motor for the radars . Don't do what I did glazed then paint ,I learned by my mistake .Canopy 500 works fine for the fixing the glazing. Are you going to route the pipe work for the monitors as the book or flexi pipe and just have the ones on the drawing as dummy's .thers not a lot of room through the railing ,but you might have already found this out .
I came home from Warwick to 4 tons of firewood in long logs so it will be a bit before I get back to the build its all to cut and split in to 10" lengths ,not complaining it free .
Keep up the good work .
David
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I came home from Warwick to 4 tons of firewood in long logs so it will be a bit before I get back to the build its all to cut and split in to 10" lengths ,not complaining it free .
Keep up the good work .
David
Wish I could get it for free. Yes I live in Spain but it gets every bit as cold as the UK here in the countryside! We got 3 tonnes delivered last week. It's a 100€ a tonne here :o :o So I hope this will keep the log burner happy until March, can't afford much more at that price.
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Hi David - Yes I was going to paint first and then glaze. I've got some glue that's called Canopy but I'm not sure if it's the right stuff, I'll have a look when I get home on Friday. As for the pipe work I am going to make dummy pipes as per the drawings and use the lobster back method as you recommend. Hopefully I will supply water to the fire monitors but passing brass pipes straight through the bridge. Good luck shifting all of that wood!
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Hi Stewart - I've been watching your build of Granit and I thought how similar the hull layout looked to the Fairmount. Yours should be a great build and I'll be watching.
Similar but the Granit is slightly older, designated UT702 type hull (if I remember correctly) not sure on the Fairmount though?
Don't be holding your breath though on my build, this is going to take a while!!!!!!
I did spy on your recent upload some nice engineering blocks, ideal for making sure everything is nicely square, plus good weights, where did you get them from if I may ask?
Cheers
Stewart
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Same here Stewart I'm a very slow builder as you can tell! The blocks are called 1-2-3 engineering blocks as that is their size in inches. Put a search in Ebay and you'll find some there 😀
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Cheers mate, just found some, a snip @ £24 for a pair or £24.50 for a pair in a wooden box, hmmmmm which one?....................... :-))
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A bit more progress this weekend - Firstly I had to sort out the one corner that I just could not get right when I glued the bridge together. Thank goodness for filler is all I can say %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1313_zps2ngjduj7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1313_zps2ngjduj7.jpg.html)
Next was another move away from the kit. On the real ship quite a prominent feature is the rail that runs around the bridge. I decided to have a go at this and used the full size plans that are supplied with the model to make things easier. It wasn't the easiest thing to do but it seemed to come out ok.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1318_zps1otnrnpn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1318_zps1otnrnpn.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1319_zpsyjql3se0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1319_zpsyjql3se0.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1320_zpsxunrpn4r.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1320_zpsxunrpn4r.jpg.html)
I couldn't go all of the way around as the fire monitor supply pipes go over the top of the bridge. I did try and bend the rail to incorporate these but I just could not do it. In the end I simply left a gap but I think once its all painted it will be ok.
Then for my big error >>:-( I soldered the rail up only to realise that i needed to remove it to finish sanding and filling the bridge. I managed to remove it in the end but what a pain it was. So once removed I airbrushed 3 coats to Eze - Kote before reinstalling the rail and finishing with a few coats of primer
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1321_zpsw6msw6f3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1321_zpsw6msw6f3.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1322_zpsjtuo7fue.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1322_zpsjtuo7fue.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1323_zpsnlkbc5yx.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1323_zpsnlkbc5yx.jpg.html)
Not to bad a finish for a first coat. It still needs some work before it gets its top colours. I'll paint the inside white first before painting the outside.
I've got a few things to work out now such as how many LED's to use to light the inside of the bridge. I'm hoping that two will be enough? I've also looked at what glue I've got for the windows and its called Canopy 560 - does anyone know if this glue is ok? Also I'm not sure whether or not to use the supplied acetate for the windows or swap it for something else. Any advice would be very welcome.
Thanks for looking - Mark
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HI Mark
Your comment about the Canopy glue, the RC airplane boys use that and similar type to fit there cockpit canopies, great stuff as there glazing is right in your face!!!!
You also mentioned the LED's you are fitting, i have just bought a set of coloured leds from home bargines, 100 for £4.99, they just need to be un-raveled, Blue, red, green, yellow and white,
Hope this helps
Mark
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Thanks for letting me know about the glue Mark thats great! As for the LED's I'm using 12v micro LED's from the component shop as they come ready wired and the whole boat is running on 12v just to make life easier for me. It sounds like you have got yourself a real bargain there though :-))
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First off you are making a first class job of everything you have done as has David. It is great to watch the progress you are both making. I have not made any attempt on my Alpine yet, I just can't do the things I need to do using my left hand that was just second nature before having the stroke. I hope to cut thin slide glass for the glazing & gluing it on from the inside, that way the rough edges of the glass hopefully won't show. I have done most of my Smit Nederland with slide glass & it was much more difficult because the glass had to fit in the frame to look right(done before the stroke). I am not sure that I can cut it now though. I used a Dremel with a diamond disc & it worked well when I got the hang of it, the hard part was grinding the edges to fit as close as possible. I clamped the glass to the bench on a very flat piece of ply as close to the edge as I could. I broke quite a few to start, but after a bit of practice my breakage was about 3/% to 4%, WEAR GOGGLES AT ALL TIMES WHILE doing it. I hope this might solve your glazing job. Keep up the good work, you are doing a great job of it. Mick B.
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Just a short question Dave, will the piping above the windows spray too with the monitors, & did you use copper pipe ?. Mick B.
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Hi Mike good to hear from you ,I was just about to tell Mark about you slide idea , I wish I had used something more durable . If you can find something Mark give it a go, the reason I say this is it scratches real easy my top has been made a long time and now it's out of its box my shed gets a bit dusty ,I have been using a brush and it still shows small scratch marks ,as ever things are coming on fine .Have you had any thoughts about the lettering on the cranes yet , I had some made up at Warwick at great cost but not really happy thy are self adhesive and on a rough clear film . Just another thought I wish I had made my superstructure hinge on the front a like a wagon cab it's a bit late for me but you might be able to the reason I say this is when the mast and all the rest of the fitting are one its all is a bit delicate.
Keep up the good work
David
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Hi Mike ,it's Mark that has put screen washer piping on his build , not me .
David .
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You see David what happens as you get old, you just get more confused. I now have trouble with things that happened just 24 hours ago or less. I must say though that you are both doing a fantastic job of your builds & very informative too. Thank you both. Mick B.
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There you go it shows you just how little I know about ships. I thought that it was a rail and it turns out to be a wash pipe. Oh well you learn something new every day 😀 The pipe is not actually a pipe Mick it's just 1 MM. brass rod and it's only for show unfortunately. Thanks for the ideas about the Windows chaps but I think glass will be a step too far for me. I won't use the supplied acetate either if it scratches like you say David. I'll have a look around the Internet for a solution in plastic of some kind. As for the lettering I'll probably use the rub on type letter that you can buy on a sheet and then fix them with a coat of laquer
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The pipe work is a drench pipe. I explained it in my last update of my anchor handler. Basically during fire fighting (think Piper Alpha) Even standing off 100 metres the heat is enough to buckle and crack plating and break glass. The drench pipe sprays water onto the superstructure/glass to keep them cool in such circumstances.
If you check close up photo's of the real ship you will find them in various diameters all over the place.
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Thanks Brian that makes sense I'll have a closer look now at the pictures of the ship and see if there's anymore I need to fit
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Hi Mark
There is green pipe work just above deck level on the out side of the stantions . Have a look at EMA Plastics thy have coloured pipe , I used it for the pipe work down the side of the orange structure on the work deck .David
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Thanks David I'll have a look on their website
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More railings this week and also a start on the working fire monitors.
I finished the railings that go around the very top deck and these ones incorporated a ladder that comes off of the top rail. I must say that this really tested my patience >>:-( Trying to solder the rungs on the ladder was very difficult for me. I found that every time I put any heat near them they either moved out of place or the rung further down did. I used solder paste but still found it hard. If anyone could please tell me their technique for this I would be very grateful but here are the results. I also made the final big railing for the second deck.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1329_zpsqiqm0j0h.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1329_zpsqiqm0j0h.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1330_zpslkieubng.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1330_zpslkieubng.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1331_zpsiyyunh1u.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1331_zpsiyyunh1u.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1332_zpsg3egdpnm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1332_zpsg3egdpnm.jpg.html)
Next onto the fire monitors. I could not find any after market monitors that were to scale so I knew that I needed to make my own. I wanted to make them as identical as I could to the static ones supplied in the kit. What I have done so far is to bend a 4mm brass tube so that it fits between the two halves of the kit monitor. I then epoxied these pieces together and the results so far are quite good. The gap in the middle will be filled with body filler.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1335_zpsukwtnkul.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1335_zpsukwtnkul.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1337_zpszkych1j8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1337_zpszkych1j8.jpg.html)
And when fitted it looks ok too. Its obviously not cut to size yet but you get the idea O0
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1338_zpsak2awqu4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1338_zpsak2awqu4.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1340_zps2iccgcot.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1340_zps2iccgcot.jpg.html)
The tube goes down through the superstructure through two brass bearings which allows them to swivel. The plan is to use a mini servo to steer them which I'm hoping will work.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1341_zpskovuyvsp.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1341_zpskovuyvsp.jpg.html)
I've looked for mini servos on the internet but the choice is bewildering %% If someone could recommend a mini servo for this purpose that would be great too. Apart from this work its mainly been loads of sanding and prep for the final paintwork. As per usual this has taken hours of work!
Mark :-)
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Hi Mark
Your had rail looks good . Few tips is once you have solder one run on the ladder is put a crocodile clip/ hair clip on the joint . this will act as a heat sink on that joint. 2nd tin all joint on the ladder first . using flux and a dap of solder on the tip of the iron ,solder the joint . Once it is soldered cool straight away with wet sponge to remove heat.
Any 9 gram micro servo will do . Get them cheep on Ebay
John
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Thanks for the advice John - I've got a couple more ladders to make so I'll give your suggestion a try. It does make sense though :-)) looking back I went wrong trying to solder all of the rungs at the same time :embarrassed: I've also ordered a 9g servo - £2.49 what a bargain I just hope it actually works for that money {-)
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Well I think I've had a good result on the fire monitors %% Although it needs a little more finishing before a coat of bright red it actually looks pretty good. In fact far better than than I thought it would be. Its the same size as the static kit monitor and it swivels very freely. I made the outlet smaller by modifying the aluminium part of a pop rivet of all things. It just needed the diameter reducing a bit and then I epoxied it in place. If the jet size is a bit big I'll simply fill the hole with some more epoxy and drill a smaller hole.
I've also ordered some tiller arms that will fit over the tubes for the steering of them. I've just got to decide whether to move them independently or together as a pair (thanks to david48 for making me think about these things before I firm up the outcome). Just one more to make now then :o
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1343_zpsb9ohvjyf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1343_zpsb9ohvjyf.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1345_zpsd2cf9g3r.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1345_zpsd2cf9g3r.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1344_zpsvrt9xs0q.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1344_zpsvrt9xs0q.jpg.html)
I've also now glued the two upper parts together as its time to paint the interior of the bridge which will be white. Before doing this though I just shot a bit of blue up into the places that will be impossible to get to later.
Thanks for looking Mark :-)
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Hi Mark ,off fire monitors a bit just a note , fix the name boards on the top rail before you finally fit the railings also the life rings . I found it a pain today .
David
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Hi Mark you are doing a super job as always. I just wanted to let you know that the smaller the nozzle on the monitors the farther it will spray, just make sure that all your connections are very tight. If you want different sizes made just let me know the I/D of tube & I can make you some different sizes to try if you can't find any in the U/K, cheers again & thanks for sharing, Mick B.
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David thanks that will save me some bother later on. Mick what a top offer thanks very much I'll let you know how they work 😀
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Absolutely fantastic workmanship. Great build.
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I have somehow managed to put some pictures of my Fairmount build on to the Mayhem group on / in Facebook, so if anyone wants a look thy are there . It would be good if thy could be moved on to the forum . " Oh there in my wife's name "
David .
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I've now managed to finish the fire monitors and I'm really pleased the way they came out!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1351_zps4ly70bab.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1351_zps4ly70bab.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1352_zpstwh68bhn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1352_zpstwh68bhn.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1353_zps3wld82oh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1353_zps3wld82oh.jpg.html)
I've also made a start on painting the bridge. I started with the inside and just painted it simple white. The holes are also drilled for the LED lighting and also for the wiring that will be coming from the mast.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1350_zpsafwtxcv0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1350_zpsafwtxcv0.jpg.html)
And then the hard part came! I knew that I needed to mask all of the windows from the inside and I knew it would be difficult but I really underestimated just how difficult <*< Four hours (Yes four hours) later the masking was complete and I painted the orange on the outside.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1356_zpsznh9ngen.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1356_zpsznh9ngen.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1357_zpsacrreiqq.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1357_zpsacrreiqq.jpg.html)
But when I removed all of the tape the time was well spent. You can see the contrast in these pictures and I got hardly any overspray on the inside :-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1354_zpszrdtyfvs.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1354_zpszrdtyfvs.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1355_zpsnedtcuxd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1355_zpsnedtcuxd.jpg.html)
And lastly the etch primer is now on the railings
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1358_zps537pisrf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1358_zps537pisrf.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1359_zps1yuo3pau.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1359_zps1yuo3pau.jpg.html)
Still lots more painting to do but I'll update this thread as I get it done - Mark
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Hi Mark
Things are coming on very well ,window masking is a lot of work just to throw away ,you must have someware warm to work , I tried the other day to do a bit more but the cold drove me out of the shed , it's 6m X 5m made from wood and -5 so it will not warm up . Where have you put the pump for the monsters ,out of interest .
Davi
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Hi David - I work in our spare room mate. No one ever uses it but me so its like my indoor shed {-)
The pump for the monitors is situated just in front of the bow thruster
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0908_zpsvpb9pft0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_0908_zpsvpb9pft0.jpg.html)
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Mark
I'm interested to know which brand of etch primer you used for the railings.
Dave M
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Hi Dave - nothing special just a rattle can of Halfords own brand etch primer. Its smells horrible!
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Hi Dave & Dave, Tamiya makes an etched primer for metal. I don't know how good it is but from the price it should do the job very well!!. Mick B.
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Dave use U Pol do an ebay search for it,halfords sell it as well
Dave
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Dave use U Pol do an ebay search for it,halfords sell it as well
Dave
Another vote for U-Pol
Not cheap but does the job nicely and an excellent finish.... In most cases no flatting is required
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The etch primer I used was from Squires , it is zinc chromate I think and it has rather a strong smell.
David
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I've been busy painting over the xmas holiday - firstly the top decks of the bridge have had their final colours and the railings have had a coat of white too
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1360_zpslt54c4rz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1360_zpslt54c4rz.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1361_zpsl2rpj1ow.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1361_zpsl2rpj1ow.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1362_zpsuphrtsah.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1362_zpsuphrtsah.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1363_zpsmopd5svk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1363_zpsmopd5svk.jpg.html)
Then it was on with the bridge glazing - Oh my - what a job I hope never to repeat {:-{ I used 0.5mm acrylic which is nice and easy to use but cutting all of the windows and squeezing them in! I did the best I could and its turned out okay - but that describes it best - its just okay
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1364_zpss3skxxp7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1364_zpss3skxxp7.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1365_zpsqrzdwuht.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1365_zpsqrzdwuht.jpg.html)
I have made a start on the lower part of the superstructure - Not too many photo's here as they would be very repetitive but it was the usual - seal the wood; prime; see the faults; sand; prime again and so on until you get there
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1367_zps8aks79cp.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1367_zps8aks79cp.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1368_zpsofdqys4r.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1368_zpsofdqys4r.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1371_zpsjma2pzuo.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1371_zpsjma2pzuo.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1373_zpsae3a1jgw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1373_zpsae3a1jgw.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1374_zpspal8zffr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1374_zpspal8zffr.jpg.html)
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Next I masked up the interior floor of the bridge and painted its final colour
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1375_zpsm5vf4gc4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1375_zpsm5vf4gc4.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1376_zpsk44d7u5i.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1376_zpsk44d7u5i.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1378_zpscruxuwib.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1378_zpscruxuwib.jpg.html)
The the mini LED's which will light the bridge were installed - You can just about see them in these pictures and I have lit one up for you ;) I would have lit them both but I did not have enough hands {-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1379_zpsrzdtqila.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1379_zpsrzdtqila.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1380_zps4n7jwuae.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1380_zps4n7jwuae.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1381_zpsqwxmldv3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1381_zpsqwxmldv3.jpg.html)
And finally the two halves have been epoxied together after the glazing had been given a good clean!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1382_zps8kdqnfga.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1382_zps8kdqnfga.jpg.html)
Thats its for now but I'll probably have some more before the weeks out - Mark
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Happy new year Mark .
You are making good progress , things looking good . I have turned mine round and started to detail the port side . The weather up here is somewhat anti social at the moment , paint and glue taking sometime to harden of so just have to take my time . I will take some more pictures and stick them on Mayhem face page . It's a shoot day tomorrow + Hogmanay so there will be party action . Have a good new year.
David .
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Happy new year to you too David :-) What with the weather and your new year shoot remember to keep your head down!
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Happy New Year you two ( Mark & David ) you have done the Fairmount Alpine Proud. I have finally started mine after having it for over two & a half years. Health issues got in the way . I can see I will learn a lot from both your builds. Again thank you for sharing, it will be a great help. Mick B.
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Happy new year Mick - Glad your building again now hurry up and get some photos on the forum %% Seriously though if I can be of any help just let me know!
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Well I must be honest - My sequence of construction has caused me a few problems. Joining the bridge to the superstructure proved to be troublesome. Although I did my best to make sure that it all lined up, in reality it was very difficult to get it all to fit back correctly together. I ended up filling the joint about 4 times including all of the necessary painting and its still not quite right. I reached the point where I had to say - well its as good as its going to be!
However moving forward I filled and smoothed the joints underneath the bridge
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1383_zpsnzu8lcpq.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1383_zpsnzu8lcpq.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1384_zps6lrxrc6u.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1384_zps6lrxrc6u.jpg.html)
And then fitted the rear deck lights which I used 12v micro led's
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1404_zpspstfstyd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1404_zpspstfstyd.jpg.html)
Then it was the start of the detailing - lots of small pieces that needed to be prep'd for paint
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1406_zpsoh4h5d1d.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1406_zpsoh4h5d1d.jpg.html)
Which I primed before fitting to the superstructure
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1407_zpsrjwc7nm8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1407_zpsrjwc7nm8.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1408_zpsiecaikfh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1408_zpsiecaikfh.jpg.html)
Then after much sanding etc - It was another epic masking up job
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1409_zpsww1bxs6b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1409_zpsww1bxs6b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1410_zpsasocdsjr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1410_zpsasocdsjr.jpg.html)
I then painted the superstructure ford diamond white which has come out ok ;)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1411_zpsr2g4ezge.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1411_zpsr2g4ezge.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1412_zpsbwt4tewo.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1412_zpsbwt4tewo.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1415_zpsyt8q3ein.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1415_zpsyt8q3ein.jpg.html)
The front deck light has also been fitted but for some reason I forgot to take photo's :embarrassed:
More to come soon thanks for looking - Mark
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Its no fun all that masking but worth it for the finish you can get with spray paint. In retrospect I should really have done this with my superstructure on the Venture, I am not happy with the brush finish achieved with the Humbrol enamels.
For a true white colour in a spray can the best you can get is Halfords, Appliance White (for kitchen applicances). Most white's for cars are tinted or off white, that is why they give them names like arctic white etc. It can be found in the same section in the shops.
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Hi Mark , your are getting there it's time like that when we need another arm ,it's no consalation but I had a bit of a job doing the same , have you done your cranes yet . I am on with the port one ,it's all together just have to glue it to the slew ring ,if you have not done this stage yet ,the screw that holds the top part to the bottom disk that is glued to the dowel fowls the inside of the bottom part of the crane so it will not fit into the slots a fair bit of wood has to be removed , I did not find this out until I tried to glue the crane to the slew ring ,it would be easier to do before the bottom part of the crane is assembled, I found a pan head screw best it lets the crane turn , when I tried a countersunk screw and it was tightend enough it let the crane turn but it wobbled to much ,also when the 3 cylinders are glued to the slew ring I did not get enough clearance so the crane would not turn360° ,thy fowled on the fixed disc , If you have done the cranes all this is irrelivent but might help some one else , . At -7° it's to cold to sit in the shed .
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Hi Brian - I have to spray as I am completely useless with a brush {:-{ I even spray all of the small pieces as its the only way I can get any kind of presentable finish. I tend to waste an awful lot of paint doing it this way buts its all I know.
Hi David - I've not yet started the cranes and I think that they will be one of my last jobs. Thanks for the advice though it may save me a lot of trouble. My next jobs are to paint the lower deck of the superstructure and the fit the fire monitors and there control servo. Then its working on the detailing until its finished.
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Time for an update!
Firstly I finished painting the decks after having painted all of the white on the superstructure. It was the usual procedure of masking and painting
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1419_zpsyamhjjug.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1419_zpsyamhjjug.jpg.html)
The results are actually quite subtle but I do like the way they turned out
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1422_zpsyteil5n4.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1422_zpsyteil5n4.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1423_zpsky954qwj.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1423_zpsky954qwj.jpg.html)
Next was to fit the bridge floor which was a simple job but I still have to paint it. I have fixed this in with screws so that I can remove it when ever I need too.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1425_zps49uo5mpr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1425_zps49uo5mpr.jpg.html)
Then it was onto finishing the fire monitors. I coated the bottom of the tubes with black marker so that I could get a good alignment through the bridge floor.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1426_zps6j1mpiep.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1426_zps6j1mpiep.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1427_zpsmjsxoaka.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1427_zpsmjsxoaka.jpg.html)
After drilling the holes for the tubes I fitted the servo and linkages that will give the monitors movement. Its a very simple system but it works a treat. I will use very tight silicon tubing secured with tie wraps to connect the tubing to the pump.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1428_zpsdhxkfdlt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1428_zpsdhxkfdlt.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1429_zpsylsyoata.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1429_zpsylsyoata.jpg.html)
Then I fitted the railings that I had made much earlier. They did fit quite well but I managed to get a fair bit of cyano in all of the wrong places and also chipped quite a few parts doing this. Oh well just more things to sort out %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1431_zpsnm9iqhqm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1431_zpsnm9iqhqm.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1432_zpsdydbstlt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1432_zpsdydbstlt.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1434_zpsrqq5bmyx.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1434_zpsrqq5bmyx.jpg.html)
Next I fitted the big winch that I had also made much earlier
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1433_zpsvzjemarp.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1433_zpsvzjemarp.jpg.html)
Now for the bit I have been waiting ages for - What does it look like on the hull O0
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1435_zps8ajmn1d3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1435_zps8ajmn1d3.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1438_zpsq2yqn0oe.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1438_zpsq2yqn0oe.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1437_zpsqrma6uee.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1437_zpsqrma6uee.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1443_zpszmmukuat.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1443_zpszmmukuat.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1439_zps3cedbaue.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1439_zps3cedbaue.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1441_zpsncadhf93.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1441_zpsncadhf93.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1440_zpssvvuaqdz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1440_zpssvvuaqdz.jpg.html)
I've still got loads to do and I really need to tidy up what I've done so far before I move on any further. I've also got quite a bit of decorating to do at home over the coming weeks so I'll update this thread as and when I can. Thanks for looking - Mark :-))
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It's coming together well things look good , I've just been going through the build book to check where am and it would appear that I have managed to get every thing glued on ,only the decals left in the build box so a bit of a land mark , good luck with the decorating ,if you do that like the ship it will be ok . My next job will be to trim and set up the controls , but like you I will have to be among firewood , but the snow might put paid to that, and it's the last day of shooting tomorow so that will be the shoot dinner and party .
David
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Hi Mark great build . Just wondering what size of kort nozzles you used for this as I'm thinking of ordering the same ones for mine as I agree the originals are too flimsy and don't trust myself making the rudders {:-{
Thanks
Graeme
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Hi Graeme - I used 55mm nozzles. They take some fitting but well worth the effort. I'm hoping to get back onto my build quite soon and get it finished. I've just been too busy with the family to get anything done
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Thank you . Definitely going to order same as look a lot better . I'm just getting ready to cover hull and waiting on motors coming from component shop so been following your build all the way and yours looks great . I jus need to find my fittings pack next as I moved house and it's filed under SAFE lol . But hopefully turn up soon and I can get onto the detail work but doubt it will turn out as good as yours has
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Wow has it really been the best part of 10 months since I updated this build :D Well although I have been lurking around the forum, a lot has happened in my life during this time. My little bit of decorating turned into 50% of our home which looks nice now that its done but how things have changed for me. I've married my long term girlfriend who is now obviously my wife which was an amazing day but we have also become grandparents too! Its been an amazing time but I'm also glad to say that I'm actually back to my build which I have really missed. I thought that it would be a bit amiss of me whilst decorating not to sort out my work space - so here is my new work area %%
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1697_zps3vwvzmdb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1697_zps3vwvzmdb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1698_zpsl9l7ul1y.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1698_zpsl9l7ul1y.jpg.html)
Anyway back to the build. I started by making the top deck search lights which I fitted micro LED's and also assembled the navigation lights which were also converted. They were a little bit tricky and to be honest I used to much glue and paint on them but they look ok if you don't look to hard
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1669_zpsi4tubbd5.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1669_zpsi4tubbd5.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1670_zpsotlk6g2q.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1670_zpsotlk6g2q.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1671_zpskbrogehe.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1671_zpskbrogehe.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1674_zps1mnvglbr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1674_zps1mnvglbr.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1676_zpsywwo0hew.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1676_zpsywwo0hew.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1678_zpsmwknnwae.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1678_zpsmwknnwae.jpg.html)
Fitting the search lights to the top deck
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1683_zpszo8ih9e0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1683_zpszo8ih9e0.jpg.html)
I'll get some more pics up later - Cheers for looking and sorry about the delay but I'm back on it now and loving it :-)) I really have been enjoying everyone else's build too!
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Now here's a confession; I thought that I had planned my build quite well but I had not put enough thought into the wiring. With 16 LEDS in the superstructure I had not planned on the amount of wiring that this would produce. I have learned a hard lesson here as trying to make 32 wires look ok is a tall order and this is without the wiring that will be coming from the mast.
I have always wanted the inside to look good as well as the outside and the wiring just completely did my head in <*< I considered bus bars; copper tape but I could never see an easy solution so I decided to make my own conduits as best I could. This is mess is what I started with :o
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1682_zps7os5wrve.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1682_zps7os5wrve.jpg.html)
So I started to make conduit out of styrene
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1685_zpsf72hcxru.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1685_zpsf72hcxru.jpg.html)
And using the conduit I brought all of the wires to the front of the superstructure
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1686_zps9wug7nx9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1686_zps9wug7nx9.jpg.html)
Where I then brought them all together in a small box which had one outlet which simply plugs into the hull to supply the required power
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1687_zpsaxfxpp5w.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1687_zpsaxfxpp5w.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1689_zpsb4qnh2ko.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1689_zpsb4qnh2ko.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1696_zpsoyxqifxj.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1696_zpsoyxqifxj.jpg.html)
I have lost count of the hours that I have put into this :o It really has been trial an error but I have learnt a lot for my next build. It looks very tidy and I have run a pair of wires for the mast when I make it. Anyway the results are better than I had hoped :-) Here's what the superstructure looks like all lit up
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1691_zps1mv8hyt2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1691_zps1mv8hyt2.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1693_zpsslnz31lv.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1693_zpsslnz31lv.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1694_zpsiybikzsb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1694_zpsiybikzsb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1695_zpsprmunkz0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1695_zpsprmunkz0.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1692_zpse7drkfuk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1692_zpse7drkfuk.jpg.html)
I've now got loads of remedial work to do as the wiring really has knocked the superstructure about quite a bit. Lots of paint touch ups and general tidy ups but I'm so glad this part of the build is out of the way - thanks Mark :-)
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So, now your wiring matches your workspace - very tidy indeed. :-)
Hope to apply those "hide the wires" techniques myself, to a few upcoming planned builds. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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It seems well worth the effort Ray and I'm hoping that it will stand the test of time too. I tell you what though my soldering of resistors and fine wire has improved no end {-)
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Hi Mark it is good to see how things are going ,good luck and best wishes.
I did not think there would be as much wiring but it mounts up .I must admit I have not been on my build for some time .I reduced the neutral by running a copper strip round the inside edge ,then soldered the neutral wire to that ,still not as tidy as I would like, yours is looking good.
David
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Hi David good to hear from you. I did consider using copper tape but I was worried about heating it up to much and then affecting the finished paint on the outside {:-{ I think when I make the mast I will choose a light sequence and use that rather than trying to put all of the lights on it. I think putting them all on would be a step to far for me
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I've been getting on with the small details this week and I started with the exhausts which required cutting and soldering. I really wanted to get them all exactly the same so I made a cutting guide and a simple jig to solder them all together. I think that they came out ok
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1700_zpsu4j2b3mi.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1700_zpsu4j2b3mi.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1704_zpsweklvnmu.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1704_zpsweklvnmu.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1705_zpsptqe2fo1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1705_zpsptqe2fo1.jpg.html)
And painted ready to be fitted :-))
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1708_zpsvqtbgymt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1708_zpsvqtbgymt.jpg.html)
I then made what I think must be something to do with the radar? A pressure vessel, pipework and a few other sundries and gave them a coat of paint
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1702_zpstxbdmkd0.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1702_zpstxbdmkd0.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1707_zpsrivifb8m.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1707_zpsrivifb8m.jpg.html)
And now for the hardest part that I have had to make for this entire build. I have lost count of the number of attempts it took to get this anywhere near right. This part really tested me and my patience and to make things worse I had to make two of them <*< They are made of 8 pieces of 0.75mm brass wire and I've put a penny next to it to show the scale. After having made the two of them I then discovered that the 1:1 drawing on the plans was wrong >>:-( as they were too short. Rather than make them again I simply extended them slightly. The sharp eyed of you will notice that there is one leg missing off of one of them. Its just going to have to stay that way O0
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1715_zps3zpc3sd9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1715_zps3zpc3sd9.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1716_zpsgbohzg40.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1716_zpsgbohzg40.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1717_zpsqjwsxl6o.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1717_zpsqjwsxl6o.jpg.html)
But they fit really well and I can't help but feel that the hours that I put into these two parts was worth the effort. I reckon that getting to these two finished versions I spent about 12 hours on them!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1718_zpssnqwbfj3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1718_zpssnqwbfj3.jpg.html)
With some etch primer on
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1719_zps6kv7md45.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1719_zps6kv7md45.jpg.html)
Next to do will be the superstructure stairs, lifeboats and lots and lots of pipework. I'm not going to assemble it until all of the parts are made. Thanks for looking Mark :-)
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Good to see you're still at it Mark - nice clean work there.
I can well appreciate the frustration with those last bits of soldering - similar situation for me when trying to make ladder for my Smit Nederland. However it all comes good in the end. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Hi Mark
Sorry I should have told you about the 1:1 drawing being wrong I found out like you the hard way .The dome thingy is the Furuno Sat phone I have been playing around trying to make a transfer for mine and also the name to go on the radar scanner . I thin I will have to be in touch with a chap called Dave Lethley I meet in with him at Warwick last year to see if he can make them . I tried to get the right type face and tried to get them of there marketing leaflets but could not get them small enough .
Have you started the dummy pipe work up to the fire monitors yet getting the angles take some working out .
As always things are looking good
David
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Hi Mark
looking realy good. Have you considered using solder past. I use this on hand rail . make life so much easier . I would not use it on structural parts.
john
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Hi Ray thanks for the comments and I know what you mean about ladders they are tricky but you are right its worth the effort O0
David I was wondering what that part was thanks for letting me know :-)) I haven't started the water monitor pipes yet but I probably will tomorrow. Thanks very much for the photo's of your build. I only got the first one though and I presumed that it was with the batteries fitted without any rear ballast?
Hi John; I have tried solder paste and it must be me but I've found it a bit hit and miss. The paste that I bought is also quite hard to get out of the syringe that it came in? I expect that there is a far better type than this? The main problem I have when making pieces like this is getting them to stay in place before soldering. The only way I seem to be able to make them is to make a jig and cyano them temporarily in place before fixing them permanently? Could you recommend a solder paste?
Mark
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This is the one I used Mark: www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52330.275.html (2nd photo reply no.285)
I got mine from Maplins - there are other suppliers out there - 125g cost me £30.00 :o
I know others have bought theirs on e-bay at about £5.00 for 50g (that's where I'll go for future supplies). O0
Be aware when searching online. I ordered solder paste and received a tin of solder flux. >>:-(
Better to search for solder paint. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Hi Mark
I use this solder past
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330959791138?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I all ways use power flow flux. Its a plumbing flux . So for hand rail i will put some flux down on very clean brass. use a small screwdriver to put a very little solder past down on the joint . Apply heat ,joint done . Very little cleaning up.
john
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Thanks both for the advice. I also use the same flux, its very corrosive but washes off ok. Just out of interest when you apply the heat to this paste do you use a flame or iron? Mark
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HI Mark
I only use the past for small brass items . I use a soldering iron . Done some to day on hand rails . The flux is good but corrosive. I find warm soapy water is fine .
john
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Hi Mark,
She's coming along very nicely, your attention to detail is paying off and quality of workmanship is excellent.
Soldering is a skill that can be hard to master, as said in previous posts a good flux is very important, cleanliness is a must, making a jig to keep parts in position can take longer than doing the job, but pays dividends in the end and most of all good heat - a little pen torch to concentrate heat in a small area is key.
Keep at it mate, you are doing a great job.
Stewart
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Hi, newbie here! I am about to start this model and probably the first of many requests for help. I made the Smit Rotterdam about 15 years ago so some experience of BB models and while pleased with the result made the mistake of assuming it was just a grown up Airfix kit which I could complete quickly. I intend this to be different however with no time limit and will be more than happy if I can come anywhere to to Mark T's stunning example.
It is early days but can I ask for some advice please about the paint? I would like to use spray cans as much as possible but wonder where is the best source for the main colours green, orange and blue? Also which is the best primer to use, I assume that can be done with bush. I saw mention of Halfords for paint but obviously the colour needs to be as close as possible to the real thing.
Thank you in advance- Peter
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Hi Peter, welcome to Mayhem, your question about paint is not to early, knowing where to get your supplies means you can order as funds are available. Depending were you live, 2 possibilities, use Halfords, they will match paint and produce rattle cans for you, also if you have an auto paint supplier in your area they will mix paint for you, its also a lot cheaper than Halfords, filler and sanding papers are also available in bulk, its the stuff the pros use.
Ask your questions we love to help but we love photos of progress even more
Mark
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Hi Peter I obtained all of my paint from Halfords and used the colours on the shelf to save on cost. The colours are VW brilliant orange, ford signal green, rover taihiti blue, seat flash red and ford dove grey. Have a look on pages 2 and 3; you will find most of the information you need there. I have sprayed all of my build I've only used a brush to do small touch ups. Mark
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Thanks Mark, that is useful. I am wading through the 'back numbers' of posts an must have missed that. Thanks again - Peter
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Hi, newbie here! I am about to start this model and probably the first of many requests for help. I made the Smit Rotterdam about 15 years ago so some experience of BB models and while pleased with the result made the mistake of assuming it was just a grown up Airfix kit which I could complete quickly. I intend this to be different however with no time limit and will be more than happy if I can come anywhere to to Mark T's stunning example.
It is early days but can I ask for some advice please about the paint? I would like to use spray cans as much as possible but wonder where is the best source for the main colours green, orange and blue? Also which is the best primer to use, I assume that can be done with bush. I saw mention of Halfords for paint but obviously the colour needs to be as close as possible to the real thing.
Thank you in advance- Peter
Hi Peter
one tip . photo copy every part. In that way you have a full set of masters if you need to remake a part
john
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Thanks John
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Good look with your build ,I have fitted a working stern thruster to my build of Fairmount ,if you require any info PM me . Do not rush take your time . Have a look on Component Shop there is a Action wiring diagram ,sorry if you already know this .
Mark worked a bit faster than me .I am into my 4th year ,as said earlier good luck .
David
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Thanks David. I intend to make it a static model although I do like the idea of including lights as Mark has done, that would give it a little edge methinks, particularly in subdued light. - Peter
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Peter, you cant do so much work, time and effort and leave it as a static model, at least build in the prop shafts and motor mounts, rudders etc, should you change your mind or wish to sell on the model
Mark
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Thanks Jarvo, yes you are quite right of course. It is just that I am not really into working models and have no knowledge of the RC building 'art' but I will certainly be building in the option of going RC down the road - Thanks, Peter
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When you get to the stage of doing the railings I have some brass stanchions I had photo etched for my build thy are the same size as the ones in the kit , if you are interested let me know .,thy are better to work with than the white metal ones .
David
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Thanks David, that is very kind of you. Yes, I was looking at them yesterday and thought the same (and there are 18 short!) I would be interested and would obviously meet the costs etc. Perhaps best if we go to an email for this, I can be contacted on *********
Please use the forums email system
ken
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Evening all, a question please re painting. Is there a preferred primer to use, or one not to! There are any number of standard primers available in DIY stores but all seem to be white. I notice Mark yours is a greyish colour and can see advantages here as the contrast will be better than one the same, or almost as the wood itself, thank you!
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I've seen mention on quite a few occasions, that Halfords grey primer is one of the preferred ones. (other brands are available).
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For all the paint work on my Fairmount build I used Humbrol bought direct from Humbrols web site . I used there grey spray primer .
If you have not looked at there web site there are is a lot of info
No dout there will be some on here who will decry Humbrol from past history , all I can say it worked for me .
David
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Thanks Kipper and David, that is useful. I was coming round to the idea that I would brush the primer but if there is a spray primer available (rattle can) that sounds a better option.
I am in Rotterdam next week, there is a decent-sized model shop there which I plan to browse around for bits, will report back if I find anything interesting!
Peter
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I am in Rotterdam next year ,where is the model shop ,do you know what it is called please.
David
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Yes they are called Meijer & Blessing. They cover all forms of modelling but do have a good stock of Billing Boats. I have been there a couple of times but always in a hurry so not sure what their tools and accessories stock is, I will check it out. They have a website which you can google, it is in Dutch but does give location and opening times, note they are closed on Mondays.
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At last I have an update on my build; and yes the superstructure is now complete %% %% %% Unfortunately I have lost all of the step by step photo's of this process >>:-( Oh well never mind these things happen! So whats been happening? The exhausts etc have been fitted as have the pipework, stairs, lifeboats and lots of other bits and pieces. I've been through the plans and as far as I can see I haven't missed anything. Just a few windows to by glued on the inside but I'm leaving them to last. So here's how it looks
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1745_zps61avu1rt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1745_zps61avu1rt.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1746_zpsu01verel.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1746_zpsu01verel.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1747_zpsogtp7g8j.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1747_zpsogtp7g8j.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1748_zpstj7ldbc7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1748_zpstj7ldbc7.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1749_zpsqmugzx9w.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1749_zpsqmugzx9w.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1750_zpsuchie6up.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1750_zpsuchie6up.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1751_zpsemyhnw8c.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1751_zpsemyhnw8c.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1752_zpsj1kukqxd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1752_zpsj1kukqxd.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1753_zpsvmeot1wc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1753_zpsvmeot1wc.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1755_zpse3o28eje.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1755_zpse3o28eje.jpg.html)
And here is how it looks on the hull - Honestly I cannot even express just how happy I am with this :embarrassed:
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1756_zps0mhpiabj.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1756_zps0mhpiabj.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1757_zpsgxpjv1fe.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1757_zpsgxpjv1fe.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1758_zpsj6vt2efi.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1758_zpsj6vt2efi.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1760_zpsopjyacuz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1760_zpsopjyacuz.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1762_zpslaaytsgw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1762_zpslaaytsgw.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1761_zpsmmr0tj3p.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1761_zpsmmr0tj3p.jpg.html)
So whats next? I have two things left to make and they are the deck cranes which I'm making next and lastly the mast and antennas. I've decided not to fully light the mast but I will put some token lights on it. Its so close to being finished I just can't wait now for its maiden voyage :-))
Thanks for looking - Mark
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Well as you say nearly there looking good , don't rush the last bit , so you can get into the steam thing . I can not remember if there were any pit fall when I made my cranes , I put a plastic shimm between the two bottom discs so thy turned easier "O" the accesses ladders are a bit fragile ,that one that fixes to the deck is a bit venerable . I am a bit like you nearly finished just some fibre optic lights to fit in the door recesses and maybe the bridge I will see . I think I might have to have a rethink on the deck hold down .
Good luck on the new project .
David
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I couldn't agree more David; there will be no rushing on this build I've put far too much into it. I am really looking forward though to sailing it for the first time. I've done away with the ladders in the kit as you are correct they are far to fragile. I'm using plastic OO gauge railway ladders with are they same size but far more durable. If you want some of these I'll post them to you :-)) As for the cranes I'm sure you said that they needed to be lifted a bit to get a good turn on them without hitting other deck items?
Whats up with your deck hold down? I really liked your mechanism and actually wished that I had gone that way instead of screws. Is it not holding down correctly?
As for the new build - well I reckon that I might get that started next March but only when this one is complete to my satisfaction
Mark :-)
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Hi Mark
The plan for the deck hold down was to operate it from in between the batteries, then I did not know I would need a speed controller for the stern thruster as well as the bow thruster .The only place it would go was under the deck between the back opening and the front opening ,it just fits there but the cooling fins foul my access to the slider. I picked up a container that is the same scale from a rail show ,so I am thinking I will use that some how to cover a hole in the deck .All a bit vague yet but ill get there .
I am supposed to be retired and have lots of time , but this time of year busy among pheasants, firewood and helping on a portable saw mill , not a complaint it all brings in pocket money ,as you are well aware our hobbies do not come cheap.
Thank for getting back .
David
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I promised a 'site visit' report on Meijer & Blessing the model shop in Rotterdam. Called in today, it is quite a large store and very well stocked. While they have kits of all levels on all forms of transport (several Billing Boats in stock) they very much concentrate on model railways which is the bulk of their stock. I am not into railway modelling but if anyone was interested in ready-made models of continental trains they would be in their element.
They don't stock Billing Boat fittings but have a very good selection of general components such as extruded sections, brass wire, tubing and other things such as paints. There is certainly nowhere comparable that I know of in Kent and of course you wouldn't go to Rotterdam to but a pot of paint! But if you find yourself in the area may find it an interesting stop.
Peter
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Hi Mark
The plan for the deck hold down was to operate it from in between the batteries, then I did not know I would need a speed controller for the stern thruster as well as the bow thruster .The only place it would go was under the deck between the back opening and the front opening ,it just fits there but the cooling fins foul my access to the slider. I picked up a container that is the same scale from a rail show ,so I am thinking I will use that some how to cover a hole in the deck .All a bit vague yet but ill get there .
I am supposed to be retired and have lots of time , but this time of year busy among pheasants, firewood and helping on a portable saw mill , not a complaint it all brings in pocket money ,as you are well aware our hobbies do not come cheap.
Thank for getting back .
David
Hi David that is a real shame - is there no way that the controller can be installed near the bow and the wires extended to suit? Either way I'm sure that you will find a solution. If I can help just let me know 👍 Good luck with the pheasants I remember you doing this work last year
Mark
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Hello Mark,
Doing a search on the internet, I fell on your amazing build thread! This is an amazingly well documented build. It was a pleasure to look at it :-))
Sylvain
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Wow thanks Sylvain for your kind comments :-) I'll have an update later in the week as the deck cranes are coming along nicely and I've got quite a few pictures of their build
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Wow thanks Sylvain for your kind comments :-) I'll have an update later in the week as the deck cranes are coming along nicely and I've got quite a few pictures of their build
I can't wait to see your next update :-))
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A bit of an update as I've been working on the deck cranes. First was a nice and easy job of just gluing the crane parts together.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1770_zpslchubsag.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1770_zpslchubsag.jpg.html)
Then I had to solve the issue of how to attach the cranes to the boat. The instructions tell you to fix the slew ring to the deck posts using a screw which is not a great idea. The problem is you then have to glue the crane over the screw which gives you no access to the screw should you either want to tighten it or remove the cranes for repairs ir cleaning {:-{ I found a simple solution by cutting a 22mm straight pipe fitting in two and fixing the slew ring to this. It allows the cranes to fit quite nicely and allows you to remove them should you need to :-))
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1771_zps8uwozkxg.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1771_zps8uwozkxg.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1772_zps0qop8gxm.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1772_zps0qop8gxm.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1774_zpserxn6g2q.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1774_zpserxn6g2q.jpg.html)
Next it was the brass railings that needed to be made. Instead of using my normal wood base for soldering I've swapped to vermiculate plate which is great. No smoke in the house and it reflects the heat to making the job far quicker. I've also started using silver solder; not because these parts are structural I just needed to get used to using it again as its been years since the last time I used it for strong joints.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1768_zpsptu4ihgd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1768_zpsptu4ihgd.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1775_zps3ntocql8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1775_zps3ntocql8.jpg.html)
They actually turned out quite well bearing in mind its only 0.75mm rod
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1776_zpshgz1fhdn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1776_zpshgz1fhdn.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1769_zps4gyed3yp.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1769_zps4gyed3yp.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1777_zpsv735dlqr.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1777_zpsv735dlqr.jpg.html)
I then made the main hydraulic ram which has pretty much completed the first crane except for the gear wheels
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1778_zpshqqqpbt2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1778_zpshqqqpbt2.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1779_zpsoa9tkk3j.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1779_zpsoa9tkk3j.jpg.html)
And fitted it looks ok so far - Its just needs paint prep and painting
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1780_zpsp0kudeqw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1780_zpsp0kudeqw.jpg.html)
And I have made a good start on the other crane. This railing looks so simple but my god this tested me to the limit. I think that this was the third attempt and its Ok but not brilliant. I can only admire the work of the builders on here that make the war ships as you do this sort of thing all of the time.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1781_zps1zra9v4a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1781_zps1zra9v4a.jpg.html)
Thats it for now %% I'll have the cranes completely finished and painted next time - Thanks for looking Mark :-)
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Nice job on the crane Mark! It does look really good on the ship.
I was wondering what are the advantages of using silver solder? I've never used silver solder before. Is it stronger or maybe easier to use?
Thanks........Sylvain
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Silver solder makes an extremely good joint on brass and copper but it does need to be used correctly. The joints must be polished clean with wire wool as abrasive paper contaminates the joint and stops the solder from flowing. It melts at around 450 - 600 degrees depending on the type of solder that you use. I think its safe to say that the brass would break well before the joint if its heated and cleaned correctly. Soft solder is really easy to use but has very little if any structural strength. You just need to plan your joints; I am only practising with silver solder as I will be building the mast soon which requires structural integrity other than that i have used soft solder throughout my build.
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as Mark T says....'Soft solder is really easy to use but has very little if any structural strength. You just need to plan your joints'
So whilst has a bearing on brass model construction, a number of MBM members have shown unbelievably complex scale brass soft soldered examples
Derek
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Yes Derek I could not agree more :-)) Soft solder is great for interconnecting joints that together make the whole stronger. Its my preferred joiner and I too have seen some amazing and complex structures built with it.
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Silver solder makes an extremely good joint on brass and copper but it does need to be used correctly. The joints must be polished clean with wire wool as abrasive paper contaminates the joint and stops the solder from flowing. It melts at around 450 - 600 degrees depending on the type of solder that you use. I think its safe to say that the brass would break well before the joint if its heated and cleaned correctly. Soft solder is really easy to use but has very little if any structural strength. You just need to plan your joints; I am only practising with silver solder as I will be building the mast soon which requires structural integrity other than that i have used soft solder throughout my build.
Hi Mark
I do agree with you silver solder is stronger than soft solder. Your point very little if any structural strength. I would digress. I have built a very big stern ramp out of brass with soft solder and it is very strong . To break it you would need a very strong force . So using silver solder on a mast is over kill .
John
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Hi John
Thats very interesting but I was wondering if your joint had a large surface area? For my mast I'm soldering 1mm rod to a 2mm tube with a simple butt joint. For some reason in my mind I just assumed that soft solder would not have the integrity for such a small contact area without any other support. I've got both types of solder and find either one ok to use but now you've got me thinking :-) I've never made a mast before and because its so vulnerable I just thought it best to make it really strong. Maybe I need to make some test pieces and see how it goes. More food for thought for me!
Cheers Mark
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That's all I used for my mast, soft solder , I had holes in the 2mm tube for the wire for the lights . I had to thread the wire through the solder on the 1mm tube ,then butt up to the 2mm tube clean the joint , then 1drop of Bakers fluid on the joint , solder on iron the touched the joint and solder just appears to jumps round the joint .
I used a Facom iron with a 40watt setting ,and damp cloth or a pair of forceps as a heat sink .
I had to remake two joints only down to not getting them the right rake backwards so they were all in line .
I used a bit of modellers license to put a strut up the front so I could get a drive up to the radar .
David
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I ditched the electric soldering iron for this work 20 years ago........
Careful thought, building reinforcement or increasing structural rigidity is all important.......so is the never ending ideas of water soaked paper towels as heat sinks O0
Attempting a "1mm rod to a 2mm tube with a simple butt joint" in silver soldering such light gauge material requires Jewellers micro type gas equipment <*<
Bakers flux is :-))
Derek
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Hi David thanks for the info :-)) I've still got the pictures of your completed mast and it turned out perfectly.
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Silver solder makes an extremely good joint on brass and copper but it does need to be used correctly. The joints must be polished clean with wire wool as abrasive paper contaminates the joint and stops the solder from flowing. It melts at around 450 - 600 degrees depending on the type of solder that you use. I think its safe to say that the brass would break well before the joint if its heated and cleaned correctly. Soft solder is really easy to use but has very little if any structural strength. You just need to plan your joints; I am only practising with silver solder as I will be building the mast soon which requires structural integrity other than that i have used soft solder throughout my build.
Thanks for the information Mark (and everyone else), that's very interesting.
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Hi John
Thats very interesting but I was wondering if your joint had a large surface area? For my mast I'm soldering 1mm rod to a 2mm tube with a simple butt joint. For some reason in my mind I just assumed that soft solder would not have the integrity for such a small contact area without any other support. I've got both types of solder and find either one ok to use but now you've got me thinking :-) I've never made a mast before and because its so vulnerable I just thought it best to make it really strong. Maybe I need to make some test pieces and see how it goes. More food for thought for me!
Cheers Mark
Hi Mark
I would go what ever method you find best .
Here is my thought . The mast is made like a tank then mounted on a wooden wheel house . You move the weak link . Scale models while made strong are not made to be tanks . On my mast it is all soft solder . The hand rails are solder paste and i could not believe how strong they are when i dropped a box on them . Photos of the mast and ramp on page 6 of the link .
I think your build is coming on really nicely and very neat .
john
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6762.125.html
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Firstly happy new year Mayhemers %% I hope your hangover was not as bad as mine; oh sorry still is :embarrassed:
Secondly - Crikey John that is simply an amazing piece of work I'm now following your build.
Ok an update on the Alpine; The cranes have been coming along nicely and I finished off the second one on the port side to complete the pair. I also started getting them ready for paint
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1785_zpsx0wqgjo2.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1785_zpsx0wqgjo2.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1784_zpskga9ytri.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1784_zpskga9ytri.jpg.html)
Then I made up the crane hooks which took a few attempts to get the correct shape but I got there in the end
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1786_zpspz5fswox.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1786_zpspz5fswox.jpg.html)
Next it was primer and top coats. These were very difficult to spray just because of their awkward shapes
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1788_zpsdlfov0xo.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1788_zpsdlfov0xo.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1789_zpsvhatfo4u.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1789_zpsvhatfo4u.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1790_zpsz2o3vumq.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1790_zpsz2o3vumq.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1791_zpsajke4eim.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1791_zpsajke4eim.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1792_zpsbmi5ij2j.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1792_zpsbmi5ij2j.jpg.html)
And finally fitted on the hull with the access ladders installed too :-))
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1793_zpseko9dyyg.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1793_zpseko9dyyg.jpg.html)
Unfortunately I made the cable guides to low and I found out a bit too late >>:-( Never mind
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1794_zpshexpntev.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1794_zpshexpntev.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1795_zpsteajwufb.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1795_zpsteajwufb.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1796_zpsomgm07ks.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1796_zpsomgm07ks.jpg.html)
So whats next? I've got a few small jobs outstanding such as fitting perspex on the windows in the lower part of the superstructure. I also need to fit the on/off switch somewhere and paint the part which makes up the wheel house floor. I've got so few parts left now that they all would fit in a matchbox! So in essence all of the structure is now complete and I now need to make the main mast and four other antennas. In hindsight I really should have made the main mast before painting the superstructure but you live and learn, I'll just have to be careful.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
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Hi Mark
cranes look very nice . Thanks for the kind words
john
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Happy new year Mark
ITS not a boast but I might have had a worse hangover ,I am on a 364 day year this time not been like that for years ,got to involved with the farmers and some thing called Macallams .
The cranes are looking good ,you will be ok with the mast make a jig to hold thinks at the right angle .
David
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The cranes look really nice Mark, good work! I can't wait to see the mast on top of the superstructure.
Happy new year.....Sylvain :-))
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Looking good . I'm just getting back into mine after an unintended break so not much changed . Must say that's a great idea with the cranes as I was picturing having to lift the booms up and tighten the screw every few weeks :-))
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I've managed to get a bit of time on the main mast and so far so good. Its pretty much made out of three main parts so I started with the two uprights that sit either side of the main tube. I made a template to make these so that they were identical and I silver soldered these together. I did this because I knew that I had to solder quite a few more parts onto these uprights, so my thinking was that they would stay together better if I used soft solder for the other parts due to the higher melting point temperature.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1797_zpsseu6r3ud.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1797_zpsseu6r3ud.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1798_zps4mtjpmls.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1798_zps4mtjpmls.jpg.html)
These two parts were then soft soldered to the main 2mm tube. Its not a flat mast the parts are offset which doesn't make the job any harder I just had to put a bit more thought into how to get it right.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1800_zpssii9vx0r.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1800_zpssii9vx0r.jpg.html)
Viewed from above
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1801_zpsaxhgrg6x.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1801_zpsaxhgrg6x.jpg.html)
I have to say at this point - Now that I have seen just how small this mast is; how david48 managed to build all eleven lights into his mast is completely beyond my abilities. I will put a light on the top but thats about as good as I can do! David I take my hat off to you mate :-))
Next I made the mast support which was also soft soldered but I had to make sure that the brass around the joints was visible due to the previous silver solder that had been used in the same place. It all went okay.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1802_zpsqdfob1z1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1802_zpsqdfob1z1.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1803_zpsceuagadj.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1803_zpsceuagadj.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1805_zpsepurcn6v.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1805_zpsepurcn6v.jpg.html)
I'll get some more done soon but its looking ok so far - thanks for looking Mark :-)
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Hi Mark are you going to have a working radar scanner if so do not get to far on before you decide how you are going to drive it . I used a bit of modellers license and put another frame at the front . Stan put me on to a motor and with a voltage reducer board from Comp Shop managed to get it to a realistic speed .
David
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I'm amazed at how David got all lights wired in too as I ended up running an extra brass rod up behind the main mast to earth all my lights and then used main mast for the positive feed as for the life of me I couldn't figure out how I was supposed to run all they wires up to the lighting
Keep up the good work
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Hi David I'm not going to be able to make the radar turn as I just do not have enough room left to house the motor. This is because of the servo linkages for the fire monitors; the two would just clash. I knew it would be this way when I took the decision to make them move as well as squirt water.
Vts99 what an excellent solution to the problem :-))
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Thanks Mark yeah it has helped I think I managed 7 lights this way so helped plus with just a little gap between you can't really notice it once it's painted.
Just a quick question as I'm going for a similar electrical setup to yours and was wondering what transmitter you were going to use as I'm adding 2 working winches to mine that I think will mean I'll have to use an 8 or 9 ch setup but not too sure yet
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I'm using a Spektrum DX10T - its way overboard really but fun to play with. I also got it for a very good price which definitely swung the deal
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Thanks Mark yeah it has helped I think I managed 7 lights this way so helped plus with just a little gap between you can't really notice it once it's painted.
Just a quick question as I'm going for a similar electrical setup to yours and was wondering what transmitter you were going to use as I'm adding 2 working winches to mine that I think will mean I'll have to use an 8 or 9 ch setup but not too sure yet
If you are looking for an all sing dancing TX /RX system take a look at the FrSky Taranis X9E. It is a very power full raido system
John
https://www.frsky-rc.com/product/pro.php?pro_id=143
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Thanks guys will check both out as wasn't sure how to control all the functions
Graeme
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There is a thread on mayhem that helps explane the Frsky TX/RX
john
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,55175.0.html
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Try this unit - http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246827/ (http://http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246827/)
But dont buy all of them, leave one for me!!!!
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Try this unit - http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246827/ (http://http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246827/)
But dont buy all of them, leave one for me!!!!
Link ?
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Try this time? http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246827/ (http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246827/)
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Yep, that link works fine - looks to be a very good bit of kit - must have a word with Swmbo. <*<
Regards,
Ray.
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The first 2 are ideal but out my current budget . Last one is in my budget but needs either a twist switch or on off on switches for the winches so guess I'll keep looking . May just try an 8 ch and see what happens
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Vts, that transmitter has 4 on-off-on switches, would be perfect for winches
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Didn't see that on the last one only saw standard switches . May just have to get one now thanks
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I've now finished building the mast which I've really enjoyed doing. Its a bit tricky in places but its turned out Ok. I'm sorry about the pictures they are not very good but it gives you an idea
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1812_zpsq0nbpc1s.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1812_zpsq0nbpc1s.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1813_zpsu7j77z7y.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1813_zpsu7j77z7y.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1814_zpsqdvdfubp.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1814_zpsqdvdfubp.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1815_zpsb3vnliz7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1815_zpsb3vnliz7.jpg.html)
And this is what its like in position. I have to say its very very fragile when its off of the boat
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1811_zpspr6odaxd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1811_zpspr6odaxd.jpg.html)
This is the very top part of the mast - I think this took me about 6 attempts and about 5 hours before i got anywhere near this effort. It was just so fiddly to get it looking anywhere near symmetrical. I think it was the third attempt that got battered with a heavy block out of pure frustration <*< >>:-( {-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1816_zpswx0lh1fi.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1816_zpswx0lh1fi.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1817_zpstyhuz6dk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1817_zpstyhuz6dk.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1818_zpsgmpxdfkg.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1818_zpsgmpxdfkg.jpg.html)
So now I've got to prep the mast for paint and also fit an LED at the top of it. I can't make the other antennas yet as I've run out of 0.75mm brass rod to do the job but its on order.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
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Hi Mark
As you, that bit is a pain I had it all fitted and a white LED ,anchor light then when it was all fitted to the Bridge it all becomes a lot vulnerable. Then what did I do caught it with my sleeve and pulled part of it off breaking the wire to the light .Its just to much to go back and repair it ,so I am resigned to leaving it ,until something else happens then I will rebuild it . AHHHHH well - - - - happens .
David
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Hi mark
Look good . I know the felling on how long it takes to make some small parts
John
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Hi David its funny you should say about the damage to your boat as I don't think that mine will stand the test of time. The weakest part of the whole build is at its highest point and is just waiting to be broken. If - sorry when mine gets damaged its coming off and will not be replaced {-)
John give me a hull to build any day over these fiddly bits :-)) But its these bits that bring the whole build to life
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Really nice work on the mast Mark! It does look really good. Sometimes frustration is a part of boat modeling but at the end the result is worth the effort!
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One for Mark T please ... I like your alternative decking solution, particularly as having seen these decks myself you have managed to capture the different 'shades' effect which happens as individual planks get replaced. Two questions please, how did you achieve the finish? I have found some 3mm wide strips on the web which should fit the bill, Billing Boats ones have two different types of wood, and perhaps could mix up the type but not sure. And second, as the detachable deck here is flush with the main deck around it do the added planks raise it significantly or did you lower the detachable deck to compensate - Thank you! Peter
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Hello Peter; firstly I achieved the different shades completely by accident. After having fitted all of the planks in place I then went onto spray the grey primer. This was rubbed down which made the planks dirty with the primer dust and it never really came off. But the result is what you see - just pure luck :D
I achieved the finish by first giving the whole deck a coat of finishing epoxy to seal it and then after final paint the whole things received a spray coat of Halfords clear lacquer. I really went to town with the lacquer here because I think that this deck will be pretty much permanently wet when I sail it.
Lastly the planks that I fitted were part of the kit. They are 0.85mm thick and they do stand proud of the actual deck by this amount. Does it notice? Not when I consider the grief involved in lowering the deck as its already very low and thin. I hope this has been some help :-)
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Thanks Mark, that is useful. Of course, having looked at the off-cuts bin there are indeed what looks like enough left over. My version is a static model so I don't have to consider the weatherproofing aspect which will make things a little simpler. The effect is certainly very good, thanks again.
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So carrying on with the mast I fitted the top and gave it a couple of coats of primer
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1820_zpsnkd4e1m1.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1820_zpsnkd4e1m1.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1821_zpsfj2usdie.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1821_zpsfj2usdie.jpg.html)
I then made the other two antennas and also the crane supports
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1822_zpsfjxu9sbi.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1822_zpsfjxu9sbi.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1823_zpspmfniipw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1823_zpspmfniipw.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1824_zps3xfseozu.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1824_zps3xfseozu.jpg.html)
Next it was time to finish the paint on the mast
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1825_zpsjosql6po.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1825_zpsjosql6po.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1826_zps0ne7tqsy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1826_zps0ne7tqsy.jpg.html)
Which amazingly completes my build {:-{ :-)) :-)) :-))
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So how does it look - Here are the pictures
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1838_zpsgmwvmkw8.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1838_zpsgmwvmkw8.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1839_zpsflxl1gqz.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1839_zpsflxl1gqz.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1842_zpsvfqrhzm7.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1842_zpsvfqrhzm7.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1841_zpsbnbvyfdk.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1841_zpsbnbvyfdk.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1843_zpsumamfeen.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1843_zpsumamfeen.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1845_zpsgvaublaf.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1845_zpsgvaublaf.jpg.html)
And its had its first dip in the water too :-) I needs 2lb 8oz of weight in the stern and just a tad in the bow. It sat amazingly straight with just the batteries fitted
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1084_zpsxjcswvuh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1084_zpsxjcswvuh.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1080_zpsoedzixhy.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1080_zpsoedzixhy.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1081_zpsb3yugqbe.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1081_zpsb3yugqbe.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1083_zpsyp8plmhd.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1083_zpsyp8plmhd.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1082_zpsdn2f3doe.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1082_zpsdn2f3doe.jpg.html)
Here are the batteries fitted and the wiring completed. I did have to move it a little bit but not much. My guestimates were quite accurate which surprised me
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1836_zpsjytiwrqc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1836_zpsjytiwrqc.jpg.html)
The on/off switch
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1837_zpsc2g5oqwn.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1837_zpsc2g5oqwn.jpg.html)
So whats left to do - well nothing really as the kit is now complete I just need to fit the rigging. I'm now going to fit the receiver and try and sort out the controls which I think will take the most of next weekend. Other than that its done. This build has been just over three years of part time work but I'm really pleased with the results. I know that I've still a few things to sort out but its as good as done. I really can't thank everyone on the forum who has helped, cajoled, encouraged and contributed to this build - Thank you to you all :-) I could not have completed this on my own. I will post up some pictures of it in motion but now I need to join a club to get sailing. This will be an issue for me as I'm a truck driver which means I spend a lot of time on my own. It always takes me time to get to know people and some times people see this as me being a bit off. However I'm going to give it a go, I just need to find out where my local club is and hope that they can fit me in somehow. Thanks everyone - Mark :-))
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Hi Mark
you have done a really nice job on her . Nice size boat too
john
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It looks beautiful Mark! A model you should be very proud of. What is the final weight of the model?
Sylvain
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She is a dazzler Mark! I like your tidy wiring as well, an inspiration to those who want to de grannie's knittingise theirs.
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Hi Mark, from your profile your in the West Midlands, have a look on the club list and see if there is a local one, you might be surprised who is a member, could be a neighbour, also most clubs have open sailing for members, join on line and go sailing when the lake is free, (no embarrassment when you test sail your Fairmount in public,) it will play up till your used to it)
Hope this helps
Mark
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She looks absolutely stunning, and now I'll go home and tidy up the electronics in my boat!
Looking forward to seeing her on the water.
Hama
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Well done Mark ,looks good . The three years have passed fairly quick .it does not seem that long since we started to correspond . What do you think about a meet at Balne Moor some time for a sail. I will have to finish mine off first .
David
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Thanks for the nice comments I need to order some lead shot and it seems that scuba divers use it and it's quite reasonable on eBay
David it really would be good to meet up when you have finished your build. I reckon that we could get some good shots
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Hi Mark
Have a look for shotgun shot No7 or No8 Bush Ware is a site but there should be some on nearer ,it is used to load your own cartridge.
I will have a trail round theWWW o se what I can find .Just found a site but can not make it link ,it is Folkestone Engineering Supplies tel No 01303 894611 there web site list it for model boats , if you ring the and ask if thy have any spillage that might work , good luck
David
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Thanks David what a find :-)) I think that they are the cheapest on the internet. I'm calling them in the morning!
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First class outcome Mark. She really does look good. Testament to your attention to detail and taking your time to do the job properly. Certainly going to be a crowd puller on the pond mate......
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First class outcome Mark. She really does look good. Testament to your attention to detail and taking your time to do the job properly. Certainly going to be a crowd puller on the pond mate......
Ta Stew I too think it will look good on the water; I mean look at those colours {-) My wife reckons that I should take it to a show!
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Mark, the first show is close to you, Ellesmere port show begining of March, they sail in the canal basin inside the show, loads of traders etc, would be great to see you after all these months of work.
Mark
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I've never been to a boat show but I was going to start this year. I could really be interested in this what are the dates? Do many people from the forum go as it would be nice to faces to names
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Then of course you have the Coalville show April1/2 which is probably nearer to you
Dave
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Then of course you have the Coalville show April1/2 which is probably nearer to you
Dave
Hi Dave I was already coming to this one :-)) My firm is based near Coalville so its was a given that we (yep the wife is coming) were going. I'm really looking forward to it.
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Hi mark, the dates for Ellesmere Port are 4 - 5 March, with a bit of luck Stavros will have his mighty TID, at least sea worthy
Mark
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Well the bad news after having checked with the wife is that we can't make the Ellesmere show as we have a birthday weekend planned with friends so thats a no go. Sorry Mark it would of been great to come and meet up I'll have to make it another time.
Dave do you want me to bring my boat with me when we come to Coalville? We will be there on the Saturday?
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pm Sent
Dave
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Well I'm another step closer to getting this boat onto the water - honestly I cannot wait :-)
So having solved my binding problems between transmitter and receiver all of the rest of the electric trickery has gone very well. Everything works as it should and I must say that Action electronics are just simply great! I remember talking to Inertia about this probably a couple of years ago and I am so happy that I went with their products. They do exactly what it says on the tin :-)) I know that most of you already know this but this is all new to me. Also programming the Spectrum DX10 is simplicity itself; the menu format is very intuitive. So where are we
The receiver installed and mounted
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1851_zpsabuhgouh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1851_zpsabuhgouh.jpg.html)
The fire monitor outlet pipe and "Y" piece installed to go to the two monitors. I was really surprised just how much water this little pump kicks out. I completely soaked the wife {-)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1852_zpsmblkam4z.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1852_zpsmblkam4z.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1856_zpse2deoyn3.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1856_zpse2deoyn3.jpg.html)
Then it was onto the ballast. David48 once again my friend thanks for the tip regarding folkestone engineering. They delivered 2kg of 2mm lead shot for £11; I can live with that. The problem I has then was how to install the lead shot? I did a quick search on the forum and a great idea from derekwarner_decoy solved my problem. I weighed out the lead into some clingfilm and then poured some epoxy resin on top. I massaged the now clingfilm bag and simply pushed it into place. Once set it comes out as a block. What a simple fantastic idea!
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1853_zpsecn2b7ax.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1853_zpsecn2b7ax.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1855_zpsv0uigq2q.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1855_zpsv0uigq2q.jpg.html)
And then I did the same at the bow and she now sits nicely in the water. I've put the stern down just a tad so that she can grab the water better.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1854_zpsnp6jaqs9.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1854_zpsnp6jaqs9.jpg.html)
Now I always said that I wanted the inside to look as good as the outside so I couldn't have this ugly looking lead just sitting there {-) So I made a little shelf that hides everything and also makes a nice place to fix the satellite aerials.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1858_zpsxj0gfsyl.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1858_zpsxj0gfsyl.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1857_zpszsmvxzys.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1857_zpszsmvxzys.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1859_zpsvrqpq09x.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1859_zpsvrqpq09x.jpg.html)
So today I've painted the wheelhouse floor which needs to be screwed in place and also repainted the rear deck tie downs as they have had some abuse since I originally painted them. I still need to repair the main mast <*< but hey ho these things are sent to try us. When its finished I'll try and work out how to put a video on the forum so that you can see it running. The motors are quieter than I thought that they would be but the bow thruster isn't really that powerful. It maybe because it was in the bath I just don't know. However when its all lit up - WOW!
Thanks for looking Mark
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Well done Mark ,I am pleased that the lead shot worked ,what weight did you finish up with . Not been back to my build yet ,should have made a smaller shed so I can heat it but hey ho .but will get to it when its a bit warmer .
David
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Well Mart T....this is quite a tidy installation :-)) ......I like the woven black wiring outer sheathing......is it woven glass or cotton?
Just an idea for your water connections.......similar tubed connections >>:-( have been known to leak
The Du-Bro people manufacture inexpensive split O clips......could well be utilised & cheap insurance on the pump suction, the pump itself, the Y tube connections, & the monitor connections......
Derek
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David I'm not sure about the all up weight as I do not have anything to weigh it on. Its quite heavy though and I used all of the 2kg of lead shot. I'm now glad that we both used 2 large batteries as ironically they are cheaper than the lead itself if you get a good deal.
Derek thanks for the tip regarding the clips I'll get some on order. What I could do with is some kind of quick release or easy release joiner on that pipe as it has to be uncoupled to take the superstructure of so if anyone has any ideas please let me know.
As for the black braiding its polyethylene and comes in all different sizes its very good stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Braided-Sleeving-Braid-Cable-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Protection-Black-/321559416107?var=&hash=item4ade6f4d2b:m:mJBijooYdWCK2bALRvQ-EBw
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One way screenwasher valves for cars. You can disconnect them without losing the head of water when disconnected.
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That's it now I've completely finished my build even the small detail %%
I painted and secured the wheelhouse floor; reinstalled the fire monitor steering linkage and also connected the pipework for the monitors.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1860_zpsjzm5xv7a.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1860_zpsjzm5xv7a.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1863_zpst3khhbtj.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1863_zpst3khhbtj.jpg.html)
Then I had to straighten and sort out my bent main mast. Its actually worked out ok I'm glad to say but I've had to make the whole thing 5mm shorter. It doesn't notice {-) I also put the rigging on
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1873_zpsmmztejss.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1873_zpsmmztejss.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1874_zpsrepaifqh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1874_zpsrepaifqh.jpg.html)
So a few pictures of the finished boat all lit up :-)) I'm very pleased the way it looks. I do wish though that I had put a few floor LED's along the rear deck.
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1864_zpsnleasc4h.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1864_zpsnleasc4h.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1865_zpsno8ckxpt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1865_zpsno8ckxpt.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1867_zpsmjjhlg0b.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1867_zpsmjjhlg0b.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1868_zpsfa5ptcvx.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1868_zpsfa5ptcvx.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1870_zps7gvxwb6h.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1870_zps7gvxwb6h.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1871_zpstludhvsl.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1871_zpstludhvsl.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1872_zpsgidgsezt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1872_zpsgidgsezt.jpg.html)
So then it was back to the bath just to test everything again. I've now set the main motor mixer so that the inboard motor slows slightly when turning. It has plenty of drive; in fact I manage to dig the stern so deep into the water the rear deck became completely flooded and nicely only a little water got in. Thats before I've applied vaseline to the coaming so its looking promising
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1875_zps2tswsdmp.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1875_zps2tswsdmp.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1876_zps0yqbstvt.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1876_zps0yqbstvt.jpg.html)
And the bow thruster working which seemed to be air locked for a while???
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1879_zpsd858syjw.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1879_zpsd858syjw.jpg.html)
And a couple of very bad pictures of the fire monitors working. Well actually one of them working as I discovered that the other was blocked with epoxy which I have since cured. Crickey they really shoot out some water - maybe a little to much
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1877_zpsmixxfkxc.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1877_zpsmixxfkxc.jpg.html)
(http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy307/m4rky-photos/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1878_zpsythiszeh.jpg) (http://s802.photobucket.com/user/m4rky-photos/media/Fairmount%20Build/IMG_1878_zpsythiszeh.jpg.html)
So that's it - its all done. Thanks to everyone who as helped me along the way as I could not have done this on my own. I'll be taking it to the Coalville boat show on the Saturday so hopefully I'll meet some of you and put faces to names. I've now got loads of decorating to get on with before starting my next build which is going to be a Mantua Anteo Tug - I can't wait! All I can say is wow what an adventure that was O0
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
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Not finished - you are missing two hall anchors {-) {-) But it does look good on water. A good rule of thumb for the fire monitors is that in real life they will throw a jet of water the equivalent length of the ship ( allowing it to standoff any fire) So yours don't look too far out of scale at all.
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Thanks Brian :-) Funnily enough I did think about fitting anchors but it never happened. Maybe something to do when she has her first refit! I'll see how far the monitors fire when I get it on the pond and I'll tame them down if I have too. The steering system on them works well but was it worth it; no probably not but it was fun making it O0
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:-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Stunning Mark, you can be very proud of your build.
Stewart
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Congrats Mark you have done a great job , Brian comment about anchors I do not think you can see them on the real ship any pictures I have looked at I could not notice any the that's why I have not put them on mine, I could be wrong . Well done again .
David
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I've had a trawl around, from what I can see, its not a Hall anchor but a standard stockless type. On the viewing front it is mostly hidden from view, all that can be seen is the lower part of the anchor as per photo. Having said that looking up into the pocket/recess on the real ship you would always see the anchor and for that reason I would be tempted to put them in there, if only because as I did, somebody is going to remark on it once you start sailing...
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Thanks Brian I have not found that photo ,the angle it was taken on the pictures did not show up . I think it will be of a chore to try and retro fit , I will have a look see.
David
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Really nice work Mark! It looks powerful in the bathtub!
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A superb build you have accomplished there!
the electronics installation is amazingly well organised. With the lights on, she looks simply great.
I really wish I could have been there to see her sail on Saturday (sigh). - It's a long way from Finland.
Looking forward to a video...
regards, Hande
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I forgot to post this link Mark. None of the Fairmount ships involved, but it does give an idea of how far off (or how close) these ships can get to a production platform fire....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phtulQvMmjg&t=73s
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Wow that's impressive- pretty brave too by the looks of things. Cheers Brian that's very interesting to see and also thanks to everyone for the nice comments
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I know some with obviously professional knowledge of these vessels have dipped into here previously, I have a reasonable knowledge of them but wondering please if anyone has an answer to a question!
I am dubious about the fitting that goes on the shaped frame at the bulkhead in way of the winch house. It is two triangular end pieces with brass wire in between and a brass roller about the size of a 1p. The opening it is below is where the tow/anchor handling wires emerge from and I imagine would last five minutes with a large tow behind causing the wire to range across the opening, it is why they are faired as they are.
I wondered if it is a removable device for spooling on new wires/ropes but I know the winch themselves have spooling devices.
More importantly, having seen numerous of these ships myself and studying photos of the Fairmount series can not find any such device. Having said all that I can't imagine they 'made it up' so am intrigued to know what it is ... anyone help?
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Hi here's a picture of it on the actual vessel but I'm not sure if that helps you or not
http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1705171
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Ah, yes thank you Mark. It appears to be a 'gypsy' type chain lifter.
Peter
PS -can I add my own :-)) to your own model, it is superb. You set the benchmark for my own efforts but I have fallen short! I am finding the standard of quality is directly related to the time you can spend on it and unfortunately my 'facilities' are not conjusive to an extended time in build! Having said that I am content with how it is going.
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Just to add to the last, I have had a rummage around Google images at the vessels and see that some have the roller and some don't ... or perhaps we're fitted/removed at various stages in their life so will have to make sure the name I choose has it or not!
To add to the confusion I found a pic of one where one of the cranes is quite different to the other, longer and bigger, I guess the best rule is to build it to the spec when it was launched, as we know the branding logos have changed also over time.
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Hi Peter the cranes on the Alpine are different lengths and they do look quite different so your pictures are correct
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Mark, I have spent a good few days visiting your build and I have to say what a superb thread and a fascinating build.
Hopefully an inspiration too for some or all! This, to me is the sort of thing that could and would get younger modellers into the hobby. Seeing what can be achieved with a bit of patience and research. :-)) Great build Mark.
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Thanks Adam; I've still not managed to put it on the water yet due to a lack spare time. I'm really looking forward to starting a new build probably in May.
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Hi All
As you know the great photobucket rip off damaged threads on this and many other forums. So to try and put things slightly right all 683 photos of this build have now been up loaded to the MBM image server and can be found here
http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/album/bXv
I hope that some people find this link and photos helpful
Mark
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Hello Mark
I have been perusing this thread with a fine toothed comb as it is an absolute gold mine of information. Your build of the Fairmount Alpine is second to none (in short very nice build as are all of your other builds). I have just pulled the trigger on this kit and am amassing all the bits and pieces to go with it this will be my second build as my first was a billing’s Bankert that turned out nicely. The one question that I have for now (you knew that was coming) is the size of wiring you used on your ACTion electric parts. ACTion says the largest gauge wire that can be used on the P107 and P94 are 12awg, is this what you used? or did you go a little lighter say 14awg or 16awg for easier work ability. You probably didn’t think that this thread would come back 5 years after your last post to haunt you but unfortunately all good things are timeless and this build fits that criteria.
Cheers,
Michael
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Hi Micheal
Apologies for the very late reply but I do not get forum notifications anymore so I have to stumble across things.
To answer your question - this ship only needs small motors as if you sail it to fast it will just dig in and take on water. It’s a scale ship and really lovely to build.
I can’t actually remember what size wire I used but there is no need to go overboard with the gauge. If you use standard geared motors you will never pull a whole load of current.
I would suggest using 2 lead acid batteries though as this ship requires a lot of ballast. Two batteries will last you all day and then some. It just saves putting loads of separate ballast into the hull.
Really good luck with your build - I loved making mine.
If you need any help just drop me a PM 👍