Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Mike0001 on December 01, 2014, 07:59:21 pm
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46 year old, never built a model boat ever.
8 weeks of no work due to chest pain, high blood pressure.
So doctor says eat better,exercise and take up a new hobby to get more fresh air.
so I decided to look for model boats and found this site.
So anyway went to International boat show and got talking to traplet stand people who recommended the pilot boat and if you get on with that one the gentlemans runabout to learn planking .
So my first week or two are here....... Now please clueless with boats and I know I will have made errors and some sloppy glue technique but we all started some where. so please give tips and say what I could have done better , negative comments I can take in a constructive manner.
So Traplet Pilot build comes in flat pack with no instructions apart from a styrene sheet model ( optional cost )..... would I recommend this plan..... well not really, my advice get a copy of this magazine... I could maybe scan it if breaks no copyright issues
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0140_zps58db0e04.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0140_zps58db0e04.jpg.html)
In the box you get.....
Boat, stand ,wooden radio box.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0120_zpsbd1a44c6.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0120_zpsbd1a44c6.jpg.html)
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Started boat by fitting frames to keel
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0124_zps1720108e.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0124_zps1720108e.jpg.html)
scrap wood underneath . decided to just use blue bottled wood glue
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while that set joined up the deck ..... I used cling film underneath but tip in magazine was baking paper ( parchment paper )
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0125_zps50a84aaf.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0125_zps50a84aaf.jpg.html)
I then put the deck on but I think what order you do it is personal choice, deck bottom and sides.
way I am doing is deck first, then bottoms, then sides ....... might not be the right way but its my way :-))
used weights ( What I could find to keep flat while deck dried )
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0126_zps5c3cb70a.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0126_zps5c3cb70a.jpg.html)
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putting bottoms on as a beginner was tricky, I started at the back and used tape to hold in while glue dried, I did not do the front enduntil glue dried at back end.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0134_zpsa7980665.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0134_zpsa7980665.jpg.html)
front end was then pulled round held in with tape and a clamp while it set
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0136_zps1163ab31.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0136_zps1163ab31.jpg.html)
sure there will be a better way here from you guys
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0135_zps7d16d1a4.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0135_zps7d16d1a4.jpg.html)
clamped at end, bottoms of boats going on, part that keeps popping off {-)
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0138_zps281dea46.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0138_zps281dea46.jpg.html)
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hope your enjoying my little story, this site has some great info and still reading up on some great tips
sides now going on, in the mag they say use the stitch technique so that will be done in next few days, this is to hold the sides at front end of boat, going to drill some holes in the deck and sides and give this a go later in week, pics will no doubt show me messing it up but its all learning
sides half way glued now setting
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0141_zps6a6c801d.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0141_zps6a6c801d.jpg.html)
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so while I pop up courage to do them sides thought I would have a go at the deck stand
two sides and 3 frames, one is door
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0142_zps2a51172d.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0142_zps2a51172d.jpg.html)
all seemed to slot together nicely........
Meant to say at start to sand or gently file off the burn marks ( laser cut ) if you don't they are very very tight fitting parts, once sanded they fit very nicely
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then put in some supports for the main platform of deck to sit on
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0144_zps3bd999f1.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0144_zps3bd999f1.jpg.html)
starting to look a bit pilot boat ish :-)
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0143_zpsab70e5a2.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0143_zpsab70e5a2.jpg.html)
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put on the cabin you can see supports here better, only little 3mm ply
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0148_zps4f1d7afc.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0148_zps4f1d7afc.jpg.html)
put on windows and the roof
on the deck cover it does camber to sides, again I used what I had to weigh it down while glue dries
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0145_zps6e210d57.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0145_zps6e210d57.jpg.html)
windows I did at a slight angle on purpose I think it looks better than straight but personal choice
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0146_zpsd7bae1f9.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0146_zpsd7bae1f9.jpg.html)
have a question about sanding sealer, where to purchase , any brands recommended? do I thin it with thinners, and what grade paper to sand it with
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Are you going to use halfords rattle cans to paint this boat...if you are then simply apply some of the Halfords car lacquer....apply a couple of coats let it dry ,rub down lightly with 180 grit and recoat do it a couple of times then simply apply some primer filler and away you go
Dave
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Nice build, looking great :-))
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Are you going to use halfords rattle cans to pain this boat...if you are then simply apply some of the Halfords car laquer....apply a couple of coats let it dry ,rub down lightly with 180 grit and reacoat do it a couple of times then simply apply some primer filler and away you go
Dave
sounds easy so no need for seal sander then ...... take it the lacquer seals it ?
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yes it does
Dave
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yes it does
Dave
Also sticking with the same brand paints reduces the chance of them reacting with each other
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Couldnt have put it any better myself
Dave
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Mike0001,
My build sequence is much the same as yours. I faced the same question concerning the sides and bottoms, and decided on a hot-water soak (5 minutes in very hot water, for the forward 250mm of each part), then bending by hand. It worked, but I needed a few attempts to get the pieces into their final shapes.
I have decided to leave the sides off for now, and I will install the rudder, servo, shaft and motor while the sides are still open - room for my fat, clumsy fingers!
Tom
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Mike,
you are doing well for your first attempt,most important you are doing it!
Well done and hope the hobby? keeps you interested. Tip for your blood pressure...if things start to go wrong walk away and leave it.Come back a little later and its surprising what a difference it makes.
keep it up Matey,(the boat building that is!)
Mick F
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I heartily agree with Mick F, when, and not if you start making a mess of a certain part of the build walk away, it is usually easier when you return to it. Also I find it useful to build sections in my head first and imagine future problems and cures before they arise.
Your pilot boat is looking good and especially as a first attempt, remember if you are going to paint it then P38 carefully applied and well sanded will cover a multitude of sins and if you do it right never will be spotted.
Keep it up it is a great hobby and the guys on 'Mayhem' are always willing to help and between they know most if not all of the wheezes.
Chris G
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thanks for comments
decided to have a go at one side with the stitch technique, seemed to work ok
not glue on top my little workshop had condensation and a few drops fell on it
hope when I do the other side it meets but if not as above filler is my friend
seem to have a section where it overlaps though , do I have to put anything over this ?
will try and get a picture, but basically where the side meets the bottom and almost if towards the front of boat it overlaps ? exactly the same on both sides so must be right
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0149_zps33274b8b.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0149_zps33274b8b.jpg.html)
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Lookin' good :-)) . Welcome to the forum.
Mark
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thanks and what a great site it is
so this being my first model its a bit rough and applied some filler to fill a few gaps..... nothing massive 1 mm perhaps 1.5 in small places
so filling with car body filler what is best way to make sure its totally invisible ? used to mess around with minis when I was a teenager filling in holes and can remember using wet and dry is it same technique for wood.... start off rough and then work your way down to a smoother grade ?
have took notice of Stavros comment on laquer filler primer and primer and topcoat to waterproof but want to make sure of decent finish before paint
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0150_zpse48ed5c7.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0150_zpse48ed5c7.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0151_zps896d48b5.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0151_zps896d48b5.jpg.html)
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Easy Light filler rub down DRY then laquer and follow what I have said....DONT bother with P38 filler OLD HAT !#
Dave
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already used p38 but next build the gentlemans runabout will not use
little update, filled some corners, looks a lot more in pics but in reality its hardly any I wanted a sloping effect to the bow and used filler
in magazine they have something round the entire boat..... almost like a bumper all the way round...... some one tell me what to use ?
also going to do the boat, orange white and black
also how easy to make railings for top of main cabin and front of boat and what to use to make it please ?
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0159_zps065f878f.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0159_zps065f878f.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0158_zpsa29aad48.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0158_zpsa29aad48.jpg.html)
last photo clear laquered main cabin, sanded with 180 as Stavros suggested plus 1 more coat getting there ( thanks for tip )
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0160_zps5a6808e5.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0160_zps5a6808e5.jpg.html)
hoping to paint over weekend
orange cabin with hull half white and black and main deck grey ? sound ok ?
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in magazine they have something round the entire boat..... almost like a bumper all the way round...... some one tell me what to use ?
Easiest to fit is Neoprene half round cord from this site - scroll down. http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=1 (http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=1)
Barrie
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thanks barrie
one more question though, take it this will be one of last items to be put on the boat, what adhesive will bond that material to the painted boat ?
:-))
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Looks good, been watching this one, for the rails i'm going to use brass rod just because thats what i feel comfortable working with
regards Jack.
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thanks
a bit rough round the edges but bit more shaping and with primer and paint it should look ok
really enjoyed it so far and for me that's whats its about
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What clearcoat did you use, is it the acrlic, waterproof when it dries, i've no idea what to paint on ply and what clearcoat to use to waterproof
regards Jack
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plug if you want to waterproof fly go to Halfords and get some of their car laquer it is waterpoof
Dave
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is all laquer waterproof ?
what about this one ,
http://www.wilko.com/metal-and-specialist-paint/wilko-quick-dry-gloss-paint-multi-surface-aerosol-clear-400ml/invt/0218908
it says interior and exterior....... bit cheaper ?
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All Laquer is waterproof BUT BUT BUT ....A word of WARNING here NEVER NEVER mix and match different makes of paint a Big NO NO as it will end in TEARS.
The Halfords paints are Acrylics great you can use ANY of their products.
The link you have just put up is an ENAMEL paint.....put an Acrylic over that one and hey presto INSTANT reaction and I will say then told you so O0 O0 O0
Dave
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gotcha...... stick to same brand names
this is my first model and big learning curve
for jack , this is my first boat so listen to Stavros
this thread is to document problems I come up against and solving issues..... so far guys have came up trumps..... do you have a build log for your boat jack ( plug ) fun way to not only document but for others to watch and beginners like myself to pick up tips
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Stavros (Dave) thanks for the info, did'nt know Halfords paint was all acrylic.
Mike, no not doing a build log, not started it yet i'm a slow worker, two weeks thinking to produce an hours work
regards Jack.
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Reference the "all around bumper" - I used a broken fanbelt (from SWMBO's tumble dryer), glued on with epoxy resin.
See my build here: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,47660.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,47660.0.html)
Regards,
Ray.
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so managed to get a bit more done
shaped the hull and filled in tiny gaps and general making the shape a bit more rounded and smooth
also added the comin ? not sure if correct word 4 strips of wood around opening in hull.
this is when I found out about section I should have cut, for the cabin you have to cut corners of the middle frame of cabin for it to slide over hull.
primed just the cabin for now ......... starting to think about electrics next :-))
filled in round top of boat
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0163_zps5c8a440a.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0163_zps5c8a440a.jpg.html)
some pics of my trials
superglued then filled round edges
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0167_zps66b97fcf.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0167_zps66b97fcf.jpg.html)
used this filler from wilkos only 2 pound per tube for wood and easily sandable
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0165_zps2138c28c.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0165_zps2138c28c.jpg.html)
roughly filled when set round the edge
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0172_zpsea7a6add.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0172_zpsea7a6add.jpg.html)
cabin now primed
lightly at first
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0170_zps793807c4.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0170_zps793807c4.jpg.html)
two more coats
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t6/mike070868/PICT0171_zps330a43a6.jpg) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/mike070868/media/PICT0171_zps330a43a6.jpg.html)
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Looking good! :-))
I, too, have been thinking about the electrics. My boat will have a 385, which is what the designer recommended for use on small ponds. I just might buy 6 different props in the hope that one of them will be 'perfect' for this boat.
Tom
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28/12
so a bit of painting and lacquering later I am getting towards electrics but I have a few questions
parts left, recognise some "extras " stand strengthners optional I decided not to use
so in order does anyone have a pic of completed "antenna" ie how to put together top left in pic
next door optional ?
other items no idea, I have bought an aluminium mount and do not know what other parts are for
help needed ... thanks
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0231_zps0ad1abeb.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0231_zps0ad1abeb.jpg.html)
more pics to follow
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decided on silver deck orange cabin, black bottom and orange sides
looks pretty good in my opinion and will be able to see on water
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0226_zps699253bf.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0226_zps699253bf.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0225_zpsa374079d.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0225_zpsa374079d.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0230_zpsec4c913f.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0230_zpsec4c913f.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0183_zpsa4110366.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0183_zpsa4110366.jpg.html)
overall not bad for first effort
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0229_zps8c6c6c51.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0229_zps8c6c6c51.jpg.html)
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Your front windows appear to be the wrong way round, they should follow the roof line.
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hi
had a few say that, will alter once I can find out best way to cut it out and reglue with out to much damage
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Mike,
Here's my interpretation of the bits & pieces in your photo:
Antenna: From the top -
Two mast yardarms
Two bases for masts
Two masts
I'm assuming those little bits are the bottoms, backs and ends for the running light boxes
Motor mount: How you mount the motor depends upon the motor's shape. Use the supplied mount or create your own.
Door: You could attach it in opened or closed position. You could install working hinges and a latch, too. If the door is open, you could instal a master on/off switch just inside.
The items in (C) are rudder mechanism mounts, according to my set of plans.
And (D): The shorter arches and straight pieces are formers for the wheelhouse roof. The other pieces are spacers for the coaming, I think.
That's just my interpretation, of course. The designer probably had something entirely different in mind!
Tom
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(http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag383/rokbottom1/MBADover16510005_zps8e417bbc.jpg) (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/rokbottom1/media/MBADover16510005_zps8e417bbc.jpg.html)
This was made from a free plan in a magazine, all scratch built in Styrene sheet.
Len.
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need some help/info
inside of boat do I waterproof and what to use
all I have is plasterers webbing tape, the tape you use to join the plasterboards and pva glue ?
also no details about were to drill for rudder and propshaft anyone care to share details
thanks
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ERM I do sinceerely hope you have acces to the rear of the deck what I mean is hope there is NO bulkhead to stop you getting access to the rear if so a hole will have to be cut to gain access.....It is such a shame you didnt ask for this advise when you were building the hull up as it would have saved you a lot of greif.
You will need to drill a hole for the rudder I would hazard a GUESS 40 mm from the stern and a hole for hte shaft around 50 mm fwd of this....PLEASE PLEASE get s shaft and a motor mount BEFORE you start drilling holes and also a propellor
Dave
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As for waterproofing this is simple ...get some fibergall resin mix some up and simply pour it insdie and then slosh it around till you cover the whole inside of the boat pour the excess out of it
Dave
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ERM I do sinceerely hope you have acces to the rear of the deck what I mean is hope there is NO bulkhead to stop you getting access to the rear if so a hole will have to be cut to gain access.....It is such a shame you didnt ask for this advise when you were building the hull up as it would have saved you a lot of greif.
You will need to drill a hole for the rudder I would hazard a GUESS 40 mm from the stern and a hole for hte shaft around 50 mm fwd of this....PLEASE PLEASE get s shaft and a motor mount BEFORE you start drilling holes and also a propellor
Dave
hi
well there is a rear bulkhead but access is really good I can get my little hands all the way in and feel around the rear of the boat, not quite sure what your getting at but all seems good for access ?
will put a pic up soon to show access, also have to prop , motor shaft etc, will put some details up soon as well
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so what running gear is going in
well what went into traplet boat on their stand was
mfa 719re540/1 motor
10 inch shaft
standard servo
from what I can gahter pretty standard rudder
marine vier 15 esd with built in fail safe
now I need to mount and position this
a few pics to show access for Stavros ( hope I have not messed up here ) and the running gear
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0232_zps07c03ad7.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0232_zps07c03ad7.jpg.html)
to show good access ( I hope )
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0233_zpsfa134339.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0233_zpsfa134339.jpg.html)
running gear to be fitted
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0234_zps099f8e53.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0234_zps099f8e53.jpg.html)
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it is going to be VERY tight,but you need to drill and fit the rudder in the rear compartment roughly half way between bulkhead and the stern.....as for the propshaft this could be fun as it is now guesswork to where a hole will be drilled .....I would hazard a GUESS that it will be APPROX and I say APPROX 100mm in front of the bulkhead you wont be far wrong with that then you can get a good angle for the propshaft to motor,I can see NO coupling in the pic to connect the shaft to the motor....you will need one !!!!...you need to get the motor to shaft in the same plane..............
Dave
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thanks
so to recap hole for rudder through the keel half way from stern to rear bulkhead
for prop tube 100mm away from rear bulkhead, what angle roughly for this 45 degrees ? and also through the keel .
I also have the coupling it was hiding behind motor
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0235_zps86659829.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0235_zps86659829.jpg.html)
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need some help with regards to rudder mounts ? labelled c in picture
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0231_zps0ad1abeb.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0231_zps0ad1abeb.jpg.html)
3 parts of wood ... how and where to mount ?
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Have you bought a back dated copy of the Mag with the free plan in it, ALL the instructions are in it.
Rudder box.. Glue the bit with hole in it to the tops of the other two then glue it to the hull bottom behind the rear bulkhead with the hole near to the pointy end.
I am remembering these details so I may be wrong.
Regards.
Len.
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(http://)hi does this help
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(http://) hi do my two pictuers help with what you want position of rudder and prop shaft
david
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hi
yes, but what I cant quite see is where to mount the 3 pieces of wood I have in kit for rudder mount ?
as per reply above joined together with the hole towards the front ?
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hoping this is correct(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0243_zps1ae05fff.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0243_zps1ae05fff.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0245_zps49c5ce5d.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0245_zps49c5ce5d.jpg.html)
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0246_zps2c2df810.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0246_zps2c2df810.jpg.html)
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Mike, when I get that far with mine I will make a box section with the three pieces. hole at the top towards the front of the boat, two side pieces coming down glued to the bottom and back of the boat but be careful the side pieces are tapered, I think to suit the transom, hope that helps if not i'll try to get a picture on tomorrow
regards Jack.
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pictures, i hope
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thanks i was miles off.
So I take it fits tight against transom, and 3 little cutouts needed
Lastly I could use the middle part ( part with hole ) as guide on underside of hull on where to drill the hole for the rudder
thanks again , a real big help
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hi
the hole is 30 mm from back bulk head coming forward. I used a piece of balsa cut to shape of hull. hope this helps
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Mike the only reason I've marked the cutouts is because I used some strengthening pieces of timber along the joints
Jack.
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so there are different ways to mount the rudder pieces
either flat or in the upside down u ( best way I can think to describe ) plug/jacks way
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Have a look at the picture Mike, it's a side view of the upside down u as you call it, it's just a support for the top of the rudder tube
Jack
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Hi guys,
You are both doing really well for your first boats keep it going. My first boat was a Trawler "Endeavour" bought as a rebuild and boy did I have some fun and games sorting it out, the guy who built it had fitted everything in places that you could not get to (moral of the story is put the servo, steering arm and electrics in the hull before you fit the deck and make sure you have access to them when the deck is fitted). The servo was to one side under the deck and the complete steering arm and gear was also under the stern deck, I had problems with the steering due to the servo arm and the rudder arm not being parallel with each other this meant that the rudder moved further in one direction than the other making the boat interesting to sail (especially since it was my first boat). I duly set to work to realise that it was impossible to get at the linkage I ended up removing the Trawl gear framing and cutting out quite a large area of deck at the stern using a dremmel, I was then able to relocate the servo in a straight line with the rudder and make and fit a decent linkage to the rudder arm and servo which was adjustable to enable getting the two arms parallel thus curing the steering problem. As a belt and braces solution the opening that I had cut into the deck was trimmed in wood to create a rebate to carry the now removable stern deck, this was screwed down onto the wooden frame and as the deck was planked you could hardly notice. Great advice about walking away if its not going right also using the same manufacturers paints. Hope all this helps and if I can be of mor help with anything else send me a pm.
Cheers,
Peter. :-))
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Thanks Peter and yes it all has to go in before the sides are on, not much access to the rudder post after, just trying to make up the rudder out of a bit of spare brass
regards Jack.
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quick question,
The rudder black threaded axle part, its not threaded all the way down....
does it sit with bottom section outside and rubber o ring on inside of hull and how do you tighten the securing nut ( not threaded all the way down 0
If I have done this completely wrong please correct me
ta for now
it looks threaded all the way down but there is easily a 15mm section at bottom where its not
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0289_zpsjx0m76ta.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0289_zpsjx0m76ta.jpg.html)
rougly how I am going to mount it, may need to cut sides down of wooden support
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0290_zpsf5euxlak.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0290_zpsf5euxlak.jpg.html)
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Look back to the post Davidjt did of his rudder fit, Reply 57, you can do away with the 3 pieces of ply, just make a spacer to cover the blank section that does not have any thread on the black threaded Rudder Tube.
Len.
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The black plastic tube is fitted the other way around so that it pushes down through the hole and the large nut is used to tighten it to the top section.
The top section then has to be above the water line.
Cheers
ken
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Hi Mike,
I had a similar problem when I built HMS Ariadne - have a look here www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,41809.25.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,41809.25.html)
page 1 - reply no.6
Regards,
Ray.
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back on this... what do you guys use as liner for prop ?
do you just fix liner in with resin ?
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Get the angle of the prop right and get it where you want it...drop a couple of spots of superglue to hold it in place,tape up the hole on the outside of the hull,put some spare 5x5mm sections around the inside of the hull around the propshaft and simply fill in with Epoxy....when set remove tape from outside of the hull and simply use filler to fair out where the prop shaft exits the hull
Dave
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Forget the boat. What about the T.Rex Electric Warrior album in the very first pic! What a classic!
Seriously your model is coming along great and looks the business.
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what are the bits called that run down the outside of the boat and what would you use for them ?
you can seen them down the middle on outside and top of boat on dave m boats above..... an aid to cut through the water ?
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I think you're referring to the rubbing strake / half round fendering. O0
It is available commercially - I just used the broken fanbelt from a tumble dryer for mine, but not in that position, mine goes around the upper edge of the hull - see my thread http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,47660.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,47660.0.html)
Regards,
Ray.
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not that one sir...... the one through near enough the middle of the boat on the outside
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Great thread Mike!
I'm following this with interest as I am also on my first boat. I'm learning new words and things as I read.
I'm suddenly aware that my prop shaft will be completely below the waterline. Propeller end (obviously) and interior? I notice that the props in the pictures point down and that the other (motor) end is above the waterline. I wanted my prop to be vertical and thought that I could just use a universal joint! Will grease in the outer tube be sufficient to stop leakage?
Keep up the good work Mike and let's hope it helps reduce your blood pressure! U2
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hi,
the rail in the middle is called a spray rail, I used a length of 4mm x 4mm square balsa , then sanded to shape it .hope this helps
davidjt
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thank you david great help
unsinkable 2 my advice look for a previous build and do a build thread..... when you get stuck ( which you probably will ask here )
also good tip I got when it starts to "go wrong" walk away and come back another day... things always seem better later
lastly try and end your days work on a high :-))
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I'll go along with that Mike.
Isn't it strange that when you return the next day, the answer is staring you in the face. How come we didn't think of last night. :}
cheers
ken
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need some help with wiring .........
first up placement of items, ie battery how to keep it from getting wet ?
motor has two black wires one with white stripe, yellow and blue wire from esc with bullet connector.... no markings on motor so where does say yellow wire from esc go
lots of questions I know but want to get this bit right
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0322_zps72ikoynj.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0322_zps72ikoynj.jpg.html)
receiver is going to be part of planet t5 transmitter which I was recommended
:-))
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Hiya.
The battery connections to the motor can be connected either way, depending on rotation direction required..
The battery can placed into a polythene bag and secured with an elastic band...
Hope this helps
ken
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Balloons are a good way to cover electrics you don't want getting wet you can even fill the neck around the exiting wires with silicone to produce an almost submersible unit....... maybe :D
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one more query
is there a website to get the linkages between servo and rudder
been on ebay but no joy
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I'm a beginner too and I've been researching rudder linkages; I think I'm going to go with some piano wire with a kink in it to absorb shock and allow for some small adjustments.
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You can use the threaded rod and quicklinks here http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Control-Fittings.html (http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Control-Fittings.html)
or use the ball links as an alternative to quicklinks http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Ball-Links.html (http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Ball-Links.html)
Jim
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thanks jim got the links
now more questions
how to bend balsa
plan is to put shaped balsa around the top edge of boat
so best way to bend.... I gather heat but best of way of getting heat bear in mind painted black
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0325_zpsnjnjboew.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0325_zpsnjnjboew.jpg.html)
next question bottom spray rail .... how far round the boat does spray rail go.... ie starting from front does it go towards bottom of boat and stop or carry along the bottom edge of boat to the back
picture of someone elses spray rails on pilot boat would help me out here
lastly what size bullet connectors ( male ) do I need to fit the esc to motor wires as in my pic
(http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae228/INEEDMOREPICS/PICT0326_zpsrg1g94va.jpg) (http://s974.photobucket.com/user/INEEDMOREPICS/media/PICT0326_zpsrg1g94va.jpg.html)
hope you don't mind these easy questions for some but you are all a great help
thanks mike
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Hi,
Try immersing the wood in boiling water then gradually bend it to the shape you need, tape it to the hull and leave it for 24 hours then see how much curve has been lost. If required more boiling water, its much easier to do before the paint though. Good luck.
Cheers,
Faz. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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cheers faz..... maybe should have asked first
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fitting motors and capacitors on motors
in case anyone reading this and like me wanted to know what capacitors on the motor actually do and how to fit
go by this guide... thanks to bluebird
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,13888.msg133164.html#msg133164
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so thought i would put in electrics and try out the boat
not bad but for some reason prop "locks up" motor still turns
first attempt at the boat ...... would I change anything next time ...... well yes lots actually
still got to do railings ..... need help with what material to use and where to purchase
short video soon with bit of luck
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Hi Mike, the boats looking good judging by the earlier photos :-)) but I can't get my head around how your motor turns but your prop doesn't! Do you mean it turns then stops or never turns in the first place?
If it turns and stops then it could be the shaft needs lubricant IE it's getting warm, expanding and temporarily seizing up whilst the motor continues. (Binding)
If it never turns in the first place then try and get some photos of your setup and I'm sure with all the members on the forum that someone will notice something. Then you can sort it. Good luck let us know how you get on........ U2
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I just saw the earlier photo and notice that you have the same red universal joints as me. There is a small Allen grub screw in each of the brass 'nuts' in each end of the joints (I'm sure you're aware :} ) but what I did was to drill a slight indentation in the shaft so when tightened the grub screw can't spin on the shaft. I then cut a small groove on the surface of the shaft that lines up with the indentation so I can find it once covered with the brass nut. It's just about visible in this photo.....
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/shux_photos/Lena%20%20%20my%20first%20boat%20buld/DSCN10521_zpshmxiw8xq.jpg) (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/shux_photos/media/Lena%20%20%20my%20first%20boat%20buld/DSCN10521_zpshmxiw8xq.jpg.html)
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thanks for that, never noticed grub screw ... not even sure if there is one there, shaft is well lubricated
prop turns, then locks
so think grub screws are missing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fZDF-5YZPc&feature=em-upload_owner
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does not quite show lock up, but at least it goes forward and reverse :}
first boat remember
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLmXmBAvOSE&feature=em-upload_owner
not got an allen key or screwdriver that will fit that grubscrew, sure its not there
standard size for grubscrews ?
http://www.modelboatbits.com/GRUB-SCREW-KIT
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buying stanchions
3 hole 15mm
anyone bought this please let me know what the 15mm relates to .... is it space inbetween holes.... ie 1.5cm
http://www.modelboatbits.com/BRASS-HANDRAIL-STANCHIONS
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Mike.....I assume it is the overall height of each stanchion.....from deck level to top wire
I changed the link to 4o mm.. so thinking a 3 hole stanchion @ 40 mm between each wire would actually be 3 x 40 = 120 mm from deck to top wire %%
Derek
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I would have guessed 40mm is the overall height, but could well be wrong (again!).
There's no mention of the hole diameter for the rails, either. A short e-mail to Model Boat Bits should sort everything out.
Tom
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When it comes to the 15mm measurement it is the overall height of the stanchion excluding the bit that sticks into the deck, the distance between balls varies and you have to depend on the picture that the supplier provides to see how the balls are laid out, in your case I'm guessing that they are evenly spaced or otherwise it would specify that they are different.
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Raflaunches is correct....... Just to clear things up here is a 30mm stanchion
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/shux_photos/Odd%20photos/image.jpg1_zpsqn0lj6ck.jpg) (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/shux_photos/media/Odd%20photos/image.jpg1_zpsqn0lj6ck.jpg.html)
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Hi Mike.
Having looked at your video, I noticed the coupling is close up to the motor. It might be a good idea to slide the coupling out a fraction to prevent it rubbing the motor housing and allow for expansion.
Hope this helps,
ken
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well big lesson learned silicone sealant is hopeless
disaster on the boat
boat was leaking so tried sealant around the prop on inside, still leaked, took all sealant off and used thinners and propshaft fell out
so now have hull with hole in bottom where propshaft enters and it leaks presuming around prop and rudder
need advice
resin first ? with tape sealng hole, seal around propshaft first and with what ?
give up and try another boat {-)
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Right then pin your ears back young Sir {-) {-) {-) .......leave the propshaft and motor coupled up making sure that it is perfectly aligned....use masking tape to hold it central....once HAPPY put a few drops of superglue around it to hold it in place.........on the outside of the boat tape the hole up being CAREFUL not to knock the shaft loose....when you have done this work now on the inside of the hull.....Make a well around the shaft with some scrap pieces of 10mm x 10 or similar to create a box around it....now fill this up with an Epoxy glue...allow to set ...remove tape and you should now have a shaft that is watertight....apply filler to smooth out the area around the shaft and paint as needed ....do the same with the rudder.....if your other boat has the shaft held in with silicone sealant then simply do the same
Dave
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Hi Mike,
to prevent leakage, I use stabilit express, works great, gets hard in a couple of minutes :-))
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Good advice from Stavros there....
I had to change the position of my prop shaft last week (we won't go into why :embarrassed: ) but I got a block of wood drilled it just so the prop shaft pushed in with a tight ish fit, glued it on the boat and then filled the shaft inner with grease and the outer shaft with resin. I then pushed the shaft into the hole and smoothed the excess resin.
You can see all the photos of how I did it on page 2 of 'Lena, my first boat build' thread. Hope it helps. U2