Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: Mankster on December 08, 2014, 01:54:32 am
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Well here we go again. My Third Engel Typhoon. I built my first one in 2002, not long after Engel brought out the original kit. I got about halfway through when other priorities brought a halt to proceeding. When I got back into building, there was a lot more information to be had online on the Typhoons and Engel had just released a new more accurate version, so I sold it and bought a new kit in 2006. A lot of modifications later, both cosmetic and structural and TK-20 Severstal had her first outing in 2007.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/e5.jpg)
I believe at the time she was the most accurate functional RC model Typhoon class sub about. The now infamous YouTube video (shot by our very Subculture/Andy) brought a lot of enquiries and a lot more Engel Typhoons seemed to get built, employing some or most of the changes I made to the kit. I enjoyed conversing with all these builders and seeing better boats of this class getting built. One in particular, TK-17 by Gabriel, took the game to a whole new level. Unfortunately, 5 years on the sub is not yet completed. But this is the boat that motivated me to build another.
I have had a good few years away from model subs and it’s time to get back. The Typhoon has been my favourite sub since reading the Hunt for Red October and the class I have the most research material on. Accurate TK-17 and Tk-20 models are spoken for, so I settled on building the Project 941UM Dimitri Donskoi (nee TK-208) in her post 2002 refit guise.
I intend improve greatly on TK-20, not only in term of accuracy (though I will not be matching Gabriel’s TK-17), performance, function and presentation.
This thread is mainly to keep my motivation going over the next year or two that I expect it will take to her in the water, and to spur the next lot of Typhoon builders that come along.
12 years after my first, 8 years after my second, here we go…… :-))
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I guess a lot of readers will be familiar with the Typhoon Class (Project 941), the largest class of submarines ever built. It comprised of 6 submarines:-
Tk 208 (launched 1980), refitted and launched as Dimitri Donskoi in 2002, TK-202, TK-13, TK17, and TK-20.
Tk 208 was refitted to carry and test the Bulava missiles to be used in the new Borey Class. The only others of the class still afloat are TK-17 and Tk-20 (which are due to be scrapped from 2018). Being Soviet and built in different yards over 9 years, they all turned out different – different length, different fitting and even some structural differences.
Anyway on with the pictures. Here what you get when you order the kit from Engel.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09675_zps65da17d9.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09678_zpsb33f496e.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09680_zpsdf812087.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09681_zps6ae63854.jpg)
And all the parts laid out (some of you may some a some difference from the regular kit but more about that later)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09693_zps242ed90c.jpg)
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This should be under the 'Masterclass' section...I'll be watching this like a hawk. :-))
Rich
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Yes indeed, Richard!
And very nice to see the "winter build" season starting.
Good luck with the build, Ramesh.
David
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Good luck with the new build!
I've got to admit, if it wasn't for that infamous youtube video, I probably wouldn't be building my 212A now. I'd love to see how one of Engel's more (or probably MOST) complex kits go together, especially in the hands of a master.
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As above. It will be good to see how this should be done properly!
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Lots of goodies there.
Engel's mechanisms for hydroplane and periscope retracts have always tickled me. Why do they use such big motors I wonder? You really only need a watt or two of juice for applications (e.g. a standard size servo).
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Hi Ramesh.
Another Dimitri Donskoi i modelled mine on thatboat if you remember but with a KMB set of mouldings.
Will be nice to see the differences in the two .
Regsrds sub.
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Hi Sub, yes of course I remember your boat. Kudos for scribing the tile pattern on the hull. I remember telling you about a feature you had added to the hull which was absent on Tk-208 but present on 3 of the other hulls, and also telling you that probably no one else will be would ever pull you up on it :-)). You still have a page on my website (which I haven't update in a while but will but that right at some point).
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The top has lip that runs around the circumference which imparts a lot of rigidity. The centre section of the lower hull bows outwards, even when the top hull is installed; and only achieves its final rigidity when the middle deck/Water tight box is bonded into the hull at later stage. I noticed the original Engel Typhoon (2001-2006) had a more heavily laid lower hull that could maintain its shape better without the middle deck in place. In order for the top and bottom hull to form a smooth joint it is necessary to hull the lower hull inwards by the correct amount whilst the middle deck is being bonded in. The instruction don’t suggest how to achieve this. For TK 20 I use some large F clamps to bring the lower hull in by th e correct amount. This time I was more sensible and made a Jig to hold the lower hull from 3 pieces of plywood – two sides screwed to a base. Once the lower hull is inside I added thin shims between the plywood sides and the hull whilst test fitting the top hull to get it just right.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09696_zps32ccc6e9.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09694_zps9119a032.jpg)
The middle decks sides can then be sanded by the correct amount that it fits in the lower hull snugly.
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I found using a laser line indispensable for finding the midline accurately of all the bits that need to be fitted to the hull.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09774_zpscd3bb1be.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09699_zpsd9b96f07.jpg)
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Is the radio box permanently bonded into the hull, Ramesh? Or is it removable?
Rich
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bonded Rich, think you need to go to specsavers %% . Ramesh mentioned it in his post.
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bonded Rich, think you need to go to specsavers %% . Ramesh mentioned it in his post.
I knew that...I was just seeing if you were paying attention. ;D
Rich
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I wonder what size ballast tank the KMB requires to reach a scale waterline compared with the Engel. I thought that being a epoxy glass hull it might be thinner, and therefore displace a lot less.
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As you know Russian subs sit very high due to double hulls. The Typhoon should sit with about 15% of the props out of the the water. I once calculated you would only need around 900ml to float an Engel hull at the correct waterline. The rest of the ballast volume is to lift the the top of the WTC and any other volume you add like the periscope mech, front dive planes etc...
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Do you have to have the WTC above the waterline?
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No unfortunately if you go with the Engel tanks the top of the WTC ( cylinder or box) is going to be be above the waterline. The Engel box for this model is actually pretty efficient height a wise and the piston tanks only just fit. A Cylinder does offer volume savings due to its shape, but overall height would be the same and would have to be longer. You would have to move to smaller, longer piston tanks or a different ballast system in a smaller cylinder to make a significant improvement. Rons/Micks Typhoon sat lower in the water than my TK-20.
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After some discussion on the Dive Into Model Submarines Facebook page, deciding on the merits of a cylinder or watertight box, I decided to stick with the Engel Box. Cutting out the top of the middle deck and fitting a polycarbonate lid on an Engel sub seems to be pretty much standard these days. The doubts that existed over if one would fatally weaken the hull or if it would be able to withstand the pressure, have been put to bed. On my first Typhoon I just replace the original metal lid with a Polycarbonate one of the same size.
On my second one I enlarged the hole and made a single large lid to make it much easier to install the innards and service the boat. This time I settled on 2 openings, the smaller one will access the charging ports etc.., whilst the larger one should pretty much not need removing once done. This will cut down greatly the time needed to undo the nuts to charge batteries and ventilate the boat.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09701_zpsf6dfce6c.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09703_zpsc59f1a5b.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09797_zps5f7cd42b.jpg)
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Silly question, but with a charge port in the sub are the batteries fully open to the air to prevent hydrogen build up if one of the batteries has a catastrophic faliure?
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I suppose there is always a very remote risk of generating hydrogen but probably no more risky than, say, using Lipos (which I have now been doing for several years. Touch wood!)
The real problems from hydrogen were there when lead acid batteries were unsealed. Quite a few explosions then I think.
Personally, I always like to ventilate the boat after dives anyway. (Electronics don't like any damp or condensation.)
David
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the smaller cover will be rmoved to charge the batteries and ventilate the WTC.
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Yes I will have to remove the smaller lid to charge the batteries. Hydrogen being lighter than air should find its way out easily enough. Could prop up the front end of the boat a little when charging to help it out I suppose, but I am sure it will be fine as it is.
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If you manage to get liFe's gassing off when charging, I would say that is the least of your worries
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Another issue with sealed enclosures is that the batteries get warm when charging. I had this problem with a large locomotive where it was not practical to get the cells out to charge - 10 C size NiMH for 12V.
I got a small computer type fan, about 2" I think, and connected it across the charge socket with a diode to the battery so it ran whenever the charger was connected and blew air through the battery pack. Would obviously help disperse gases too.
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That's another thing I haven't noticed with lithium batteries- they don't get hot when charged unless you're seriously overdoing it. I tend to charge at 1c, some batteries can be charged at higher rates, but I think it shortens their cycle life.
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Bonding the lead weight in the bottom of the hull with polyester resin. I used plasticine to build a damn for this – lessoned learned, it a pain to get off. Blue Tac or similar works much better.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09788_zps791c83ad.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09790_zps535959be.jpg)
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The watertight box. I prefer using Simmering seals to seal water tight shafts on subs, so I made some holders out of aluminium rod to fit 6x11mm seals. I used Posilock connectors as through hull hull connector to bring cables put of the the WTC for servos, lights etc..
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09776_zpsc551fd55.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09781_zpsde41b5ae.jpg)
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Bonding the WTBox into the lower hull is probably the most important step in building this model. Naturally the box needs to be level and at just the right position so the motor output shafts line up with the prop shafts (though if you use universal coupling rather than the ridged couplings supplied you have a little leeway). However more importantly if the box is bonded in too low you won’t be able to get the piston tanks in, and if it’s too high you won’t be able to submerge from a scale waterline. The instruction say that the top of the box should be 26mm from the top of the lower hull, and its well worth measuring this a few times.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09805_zpse1ac2ce5.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09807_zpsdf33e9a2.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09801_zpsbba2d3e2.jpg)
Once I got the water tight box into a position I was happy with I spot glued it in 4 places to hold it whilst I went about bonding it in with Polyester resin.
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The WT Box is bonded in
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09811_zps0081c0ed.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09812_zps4d359a18.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09819_zps4088cad4.jpg)
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Hi Ramesh,
Looking good any updates???
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I finally found the energy to clear up the garage now the weather has got better and get down to cutting out some of the bigger holes. Hopefully I can some regular work done from now on.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09817_zps5adc3590.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09832_zps6ucgeve1.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09835_zps3rtl8gyr.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00241_zpsgjwrdgcc.jpg)
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Are the holes at the front of the hull for torps Ramesh ??
Mark
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Naturally %)
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Will they have retracting doors?
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Operating missle doors too??
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will they fire??
will they blow things up ??
can I have some ??
seriously now though where from and how much ?? :-))
Mark.
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I have got some pictures here for you batfish of opening missile doors
looks like 2 too me I have 4 na na na na na
Mark
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You will need to have a word with Mr Perrott, and cross his palm with silver.
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hhhhmmm rather a lot of silver for two
Mark.
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Ask me nicely, and I might let you look at mine....
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There are details of how to grow your own in the files section on the Dive-in FB page. I'd say a small lathe would be useful for machining some of the parts, although a lot of bits look like they can be made using standard hand tools.
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Mark,
Maybe Ramesh would not mind you uploading the pics here for all to see???
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I have got some pictures here for you batfish of opening missile doors
looks like 2 too me I have 4 na na na na na
Mark
But my two will be operational %)
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(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC09835_zps3rtl8gyr.jpg)
[/quote]
That's a rather large Gap between upper and lower Hulls...
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That's a rather large Gap between upper and lower Hulls...
They all seem to be like that (even the product pictures on the Engel website). They will pull together with compression though, but I decided not to put any tension into the hull.
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I know you said you have it under No tension.
If it was compressed would this no effect the way the top sits elsewhere?
And surely it would want to come apart at the bow, even with the retaining clasp.
Is it going to be Ron Perrott Torps
Or are you going to use the resource Andy mentioned?
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No the hull seems to fit all around reasonably well with the bow compressed. The Engel locking method for the two halves is a bolt through the top and bottom which pulls the bow together.
Torps are top secret till I get them working.
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really sorry Ramesh but..................................................all 4 of mine are fully operational, this padawan has learnt well from his masters yes.
Jedi Mark.
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Think the missile hatches have working missiles planned, don't they?
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Would be good to have missiles firing but think it would fall foul of the uk firearms laws think there was something on here writen by an ex bobbie a few months (years back)
Mark.
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There's been debate over operating torpedoes and missiles fired from model boats/subs for donkeys years now...if you don't go mad with them and have the things firing forty feet up in the air, or capable of blowing up another ship, my thoughts are that you'd be ok. My torpedoes that are going in the Akula will only fire about ten/fifteen feet...enough to look good, but incapable of damaging much if they do hit anything. Look at Mick Higgott's...they look terrific, but they wouldn't even ruffle a duck's feathers.
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Don't necessarily have to have ballistics to get a missile going.
However there aren't much in the way of rules and regs with regard to model rockets when kept small. Just basic common sense- no launching them in densely populated areas for instance, keep a safe distance from spectators etc. private land is more restricted than common land.
The model rocket boys are the best people to speak to about all this.
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Exactly...if you start firing missiles and/or torpedoes down at your local lake with Joe Public swarming all over the place, local wildlife and loads of other boats on the water, then be prepared for complaints. Just keep it low profile and you should be ok.
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I never find lithium batteries getting warm when being charged. I always charge at 1 c or lower anyway, I think it helps the cycle life.
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So the miniture thermo nuclear device i have developed is a definate no no then ................."xxxxx"
Mark.
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So the miniture thermo nuclear device i have developed is a definate no no then ................."xxxxx"
Mark.
Remind me to have a word in your ear on Sunday...
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Sunday why whats happening on sunday ??
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Bournville Dive-in.
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It is the Saturday actually.
See everyone there!
David F
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Thought it was Saturday just putting it down to a senior moment on the part of the old codger lol
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(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00255_zpsjxpf6bfh.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00262_zpsfljvdg9q.jpg)
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Some more work....
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00265_zpsffc1oomd.jpg)
Do we all read the same books?
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00268_zps4qjaynot.jpg)
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Is that a bow thruster I see there? I take it the motor to drive the unit is back in the WTC and that brass rod just drives the mechanics inside the thruster. Also, does the position of the thruster being off centre make any noticeable difference to thrust on either side?
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Hi Ramesh,
May i ask the size of the Bow thruster your using?
And is it prop driven or paddle?
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Hi Adam, it's the standard 14/16 paddle bow thruster made by Raboesch
I can imagine the bow thruster body being off centre will make any differance. Of course I haven't tried it yet.
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Could always use small centrifugal pumps like the Spanish modellers did a few years back. They used brushed versions but you can get brushless versions now, and they cost peanuts if you buy them direct from China on ebay.
Probably be a bit slower than a dedicated bow thruster unit, put you can use small holes which are more discrete.
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Could always use small centrifugal pumps like the Spanish modellers did a few years back. They used brushed versions but you can get brushless versions now, and they cost peanuts if you buy them direct from China on ebay.
Probably be a bit slower than a dedicated bow thruster unit, put you can use small holes which are more discrete.
centrifugal pumps only flow in one direction irrespective of which way they rotate
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one scroll case, two radial outlets, flaps control flow from either.
Flows in pump is always one way, but exits either side dependant on flap position.
simple flap switch control, Left or right, no reversal to motor.
:-))
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one scroll case, two radial outlets, flaps control flow from either.
Flows in pump is always one way, but exits either side dependant on flap position.
simple flap switch control, Left or right, no reversal to motor.
:-))
its a good solution to a non existent problem! ok2
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one suggestion of at least a dozen solutions to the use of centrifugal pumps as thrusters in model boats, no problem at all.
:-)
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Still a bit more work to do on the hatches....
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00379_zpsw6bkvuan.jpg)
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(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/Typhoon3/DSC00383_zpss8mb2jqj.jpg)
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Haven't done much for a few months. I'll get back on it over the winter.