Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: smileyjon on January 07, 2015, 06:19:00 pm
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I have just bought this kit on a well known auction site in the USA. It's coming here from Texas and with postage and taxes it's working out at around £130. Seems very good value but we'll have to wait and see. This is the Canadian schooner as originally built and is 1/64 scale plank on frame. I did at first look at the kit from Mr Billing but it seemed fraught with weakness's and the Bluenose II by another well known company also had many shortcomings . . . having said that, this comes with just a big ol' timber log and a few fitting so lots of scratch building . . . .but it does come with many serious sheets of detailed drawings. Wish me luck Eh!
Attached photo is what I'm hoping to receive . . .
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The original Bluenose would have flown the Canadian Red Ensign, not the Maple Leaf.
Canadian Red Ensign: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/becc-cdn42.html - in a range of sizes.
Tom
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Many many thanks Tom . . . I have just begun my research . . . mainly at deck level and had not noticed this until you prompted me to look closer, and up !
Found this site with lots of archive photo's and yo and behold . . . . . . The Canadian Red Ensign. Thanks again Tom. Jon
http://novascotia.ca/archives/virtual/bluenose/default.asp?Language=English
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Hi Jon.
here are a few url`s I had in the files to help with your build.
Frank
https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=bluenos+schooner&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=bluenose+schooner+plans+&gs_l=hp..1.0i7i30l5.0.0.1.65168...........0.UkQGvPIMZ9U#q=bluenose+schooner+model (https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=bluenos+schooner&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=bluenose+schooner+plans+&gs_l=hp..1.0i7i30l5.0.0.1.65168...........0.UkQGvPIMZ9U#q=bluenose+schooner+model)
https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=bluenos+schooner&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=bluenose+schooner+plans+&gs_l=hp..1.0i7i30l5.0.0.1.65168...........0.UkQGvPIMZ9U (https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=bluenos+schooner&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=bluenose+schooner+plans+&gs_l=hp..1.0i7i30l5.0.0.1.65168...........0.UkQGvPIMZ9U)
https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=bluenos+schooner&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=bluenose+schooner+plans+&gs_l=hp..1.0i7i30l5.0.0.1.65168...........0.UkQGvPIMZ9U#q=bluenose+schooner+model+kit (https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=bluenos+schooner&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=bluenose+schooner+plans+&gs_l=hp..1.0i7i30l5.0.0.1.65168...........0.UkQGvPIMZ9U#q=bluenose+schooner+model+kit)
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Thank you hmsantrim . . . . the more information the better. I sat here with a cuppa until the early hours grazing the internet and will add your offered links to my growing collection. I have found a couple of old photos which although useful do confuse me . . . so
CALLING ANY BLUENOSE (original) BUILDERS !
It makes little sense but are the waterways higher than the deck in the forepart of the ship ?
How can the chainplates be on the outside on the foremast but appear to be partially inside on the main ?
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Hi Jon.
Jay Dee on here has built a BNS web url below
frank
http://john-dowd.co.uk/ (http://john-dowd.co.uk/)
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Interesting stuff . . . thanks again Frank. Kit should be here next week (now in Ohio!) so I'm now sourcing tools etc !
Jon
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The most comprehensive drawings are the set of Bluenose II drawings done by the late artist L.B. Jenson.
They have been published both full size drawings and in book form.
Well worth buying the set in book form.
See;
http://www.amazon.com/Bluenose-II-L-B-Jenson/dp/1551090635 (http://www.amazon.com/Bluenose-II-L-B-Jenson/dp/1551090635)
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
{My Grandfather was on the original Bluenose, the day she was launched.}
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Looks an interesting book full of history. I will add it to my list of things to get. Thank you Rick.
Do you know what your G/F was doing on board. Sounds fascinating and do you have links there any more ?
Jon
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A few tools arrived from various sources today . . . but alas, still awaiting the Bluenose kit (it's somewhere in, or has just left Ohio). Ho Hum, perhaps a little more research !
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Well . . . she's here, all the way from Texas via Ohio, London, Derbyshire and Plymouth. Crazy world eh %%
So the box has been ripped open and the three pages of contents quickly inspected and checked. 4 strips missing, 4 large dowels a little warped and as Tom pointed out, the wrong flag !
What's in it . . . . . lots of daunting parts, some of which are only just visible. It may be incredibly comprehensive and accurate compared the kits produced by two other well known companies but wow.
6 AO sheets of very detailed drawings, around 200 deadeyes and blocks (some just an 3mm long), 200 assorted wood strips, 400 tiny metal bits, 20 castings and 60-70 laser cut bits . . Aaaaagh !
But other than the tiny size of some of the components, the biggest problem EVERYTHING'S IN IMPERIAL SIZES, and the scale is 1/64. I've been kinda metric for almost 40 years and getting my head around 15/64ths and 3/32 x 9/32nds is going to make this a long slow build. Oh well. It's what I wanted and it should prove to be a great challenge. See you all later. Jon :}
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Couldn't wait to jump in . . . popped the bulkheads and 3 keel sections out and sanded to test fit together . . comfortably. I had to take around 1mm of the aft most keel section and will straighten up the forward one later. Now the trickier stuff begins . . . All the burnt laser cut stuff outer edges has to be sanded off (already done the inner parts for the draft fit), then a groove has to be cut from stem to stern to take the lower edge of the side planking. This in turn has to be 'faired' towards both the rudder stock and up to the bottom edge of the bulkheads with a chisel to ensure a smooth planking transition. I'll do this before I glue anything together and I may reinforce that flimsy looking transom thing first :-)
A pencil datum line now runs across all three keel parts to aid future alignment and eventual gluing.
I'm very tempted to finish the hull above the waterline with a satin dark varnish. I'll maintain the red anti-fouled 'bum' and the white rail top and inner parts etc. I'll try staining the basswood but if I can source some thin walnut I may use that instead. Mahogany might be too soft.
I've just begun testing deck planking. Charcoal works as well as pencil on the plank edges (marker pen soaked in too much) but I won't use scale length planks as this could end up looking too busy. I'll consider introducing a .8mm sheet sub-deck to aid planking. mmmmm . . . . . . pics will follow when trials are finished O0
Getting cold here in the south west now :P
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As the sun was out and I'm feeling lazy I have only done the recess above the keel to take the side planking. It needs a final tidy but I'm quite pleased because, 1 . . I used a Stanley Knife and left the chisel well alone and, 2 . . . I managed not to slice right through the keel as it's only 3/16 thick !
Next job will be to glue (and reinforce) the 3 keel parts together and tidy up ready to start shaping the bulwarks or whatever they's called.
Out of interest the cost of this kit was £60 plus import tax and £25 p and p . . . . which compared to other products (and their shortcomings) make this good value but I suspect the tools and paints etc will add considerably to the final expenditure.
Ordered the correct flag today and I did mention the size of some of the blocks and deadeyes . . . . look at the standard staple. Oh for younger eyes and nimble fingers
Jon
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Getting cold here in the south west now :P
When did they move Surrey Westwards? 😡
Nedj
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Moved into my little place here in the Tamar Valley in Cornwall in April . . . . a compact bijou but in a beautiful area; so no study and therefore building on the dining table. Not quite as bad as it sounds as I usually eat an evening meal in front of the telly. I do have to watch for saw cuts and glue drips though. Tee Hee.
I spent a couple of hours tonight sanding the 15 bulkheads, sorry bulwarks, both to clean up the burnt edges and to allow a smoother line for the side planking. The central 8 needed very little work.
A little worried that my old age skills may not be up to the quality and detailed work produced by members of this forum, but it will keep me occupied for a while.
So I've now glued the keel parts together and set aside to cure overnight (I used PVA but also epoxied some additional pieces of scrap to ensure secure bonding). Pics tomorrow !
See everyone then . . . then
:}
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I'm going to post this quickly as the sun is out.
Photo of a trial section of deck (using timber that's slightly wider than it should be) The colour seems ok but due to minute thickness differences it take a LOT of sanding, which could be a real pain when it's laid between 100's of stanchions (bulwarks) and a raised waterway on the foredeck. . . . Any suggestions would be welcome :embarrassed:
My next job is to reduce the stanchion thickness of all 15 frames to 1/8 inch square (they are not glued in yet !) as the frames are 3/16 and quite soft ply so more advice sought please !
Jon
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The frames are just about ready to be primed before trying to work out the somewhat complicated stern counter.
I have had some trouble with the frame timbers . . unlike the keel which is solid basswood, they are of 3-ply construction and whilst the outer parts seen ok the core layer is full of tiny holes and fissures. So in order to reduce the stanchions to 1/8 inch square I had to first coat the nibs in PVA prior to using my finest saw to make the cut and then apply wood filler and sand flat. These are very fragile and easily snagged little boggers . . . it might have been easier to cut them all off flush with the deck and bought some 1/8 hardwood and fixed these alongside the frames. I'll need to prime the inner 3 sides of these and sand and re-prime again I suspect.
The little bits of wood just below deck level are to support possible cross decking that will frame the hatches and openings later. I have also begun adding longitudinal timbers to ensure the keel is dead straight and hopefully doesn't bow . . . placing these items carefully to ensure future access to the inner hull so I can add two timber blocks on each side to allow for pins securing the chainplates to be secure. mmmmmm . . . . .
It all looks a little scruffy at the moment but most of this will be in the depths of the hull one day !
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A work of art Sir.
Well done. :-))
ken
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Why thank you Ken . . . . I think I need all the support I can can.
Rainy morning wishes
Jon
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Fine carpentry work sir! O0
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More praise . . . . . Oh my word. Thank you Martin.
Building fine stuff in timber is quite new to me. I kinda thought the kit would have lots of printed or rough cut out parts rather than just 200 assorted strips of timber. Still I guess that's still better than finding a single large log and a lump of brass in a box :}
All I need now is a pillar drill, a lathe and some power planes and sanding machines
TTFN
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You mean to say you haven't...... {-) {-) {-)
It's amazing how quickly the 'selection' of tools builds up. Imagine your building prowess if you had these as well.
Cheers
ken
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Forward thinking Guys. Can anyone offer a build order to undertake these works at this scale %% %% %% %%
There will be 80 odd 1/16 inch square water drainouts (scuppers?) on each side.
There seems to be nothing on the plans or in the book on how to support the waterway/deck between the stanchions and they suggest drilling outwards and then filing inwards without marking/damaging the adjoining surfaces. . . Yeah Right !!!
How can the parts indicated be painted
and finally . . . any ideas on how this can be done or can you think of a way to cheat
Not asking a lot really . . . Tee Hee
Thanks for looking
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All looking a bit messy at the moment but perhaps more in keeping with a real one in the builders yard :}
I've begun a rough fabrication of the aft cabin, just to check how it'll sit and where I need to place any support beams (off-cuts) and I've also strengthened the skinny counter (stern) area.
I'm also running short timbers between each frame to support the deck/waterway edge. The fore deck planks will be laid parallel to the centreline whilst the aft deck (which is a few mm higher) ones are laid in line with the taper of the aft cabin . . . hence the forward planning. The deck planking will be 1/16 x 3/32 inch.
Still not sure how to attack the bulwark (side rails?) details so holing off this area a little . . lots of other bits to tackle anyway !
Take care y'all :-)
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Fiddled with the complicated stern area . . . why did so many ships have fancy bows and sterns.
The main rail that wraps around the stern is a laser cut piece but it doesn't quite fit. It's a little busy and fragile and I don't fancy trying to make a new one so I'm planning on a few changes at and above deck level . . . pics and solution later hopefully :}
So . . . shaped and fitted two blocks to take the planking, made a couple of fiddly bits to connect to these blocks and had a go at the rudder . . . sheesh !
I think all the cabin and hatch support timbers are now in. Blocks have been added to take the mast feet so they shouldn't need to be glued in and therefore will allow future removal if needed.
That's all for now Guys
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Darn (can think of better) <:( . . . pre-cut frame J is a little too narrow to look right . . . Ideally it should be about 2mm wider across the top but I might get away with an extra 1-1.5mm. It may not seem very much and to be honest it hardly showed when laying a hull plank alongside but it showed up when I test fitted a waterway plank along the inside at deck level
No pics of my poxy repair as it looks terrible and I'd be embarrassed :}
Re-checked the mast dowelling and it's all but un-usable being an inch out of true on one piece and a kink right in the middle of the other. This is the downside of buying from a company that is so far away. There are also lots of little laser cut wooden parts that worry me a little. This includes 40 odd mast hoops and a dozen tiny triangular shaped deadeyes (I think the bottom of the shrouds connect to these). The hoops have to be 'snipped' out and they are just so fragile and the deadeyes may need a groove files around the edge . . . micro surgery seems the only route with these little blighters !
That's it for now . . . off to soak 3 more waterway planks and pin on a board to dry. Such fun :-)
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mmmmm . . . . couple of issues.
Replacement dowels ordered but I received bananas so tried yet another well known UK model supply shop and have now got bananas and twigs . . . . and I cannot find a UK model supplier who sells thin-wall metric brass tube. Disappointing :((
And as for spray paint . . . . this is the result I got from a new can of Plastikote (matt gloss topcoat) . . . it came out as snow and it also spluttered lumps of paint over everything. Rubbish >:-o
Meanwhile I have learnt a lesson . . . check, recheck and check again before gluing . . . . now cleaning and spraying 300 tiny brass bits with a self-etch primer
Enough for now methinks :}
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hi jon.
tried here. http://www.ksmetals.com/retail.html (http://www.ksmetals.com/retail.html)
Frank.
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Hi,
A book :
Bluenose 2
Saga of the great fishing schooners
Measured drawings by L.B. Jenson.
Very detailed plans of Bluenose inside and out.
Regards
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They certainly stock a huge range Frank, but 'tis not thin real wall . . . I will contact them about their metric range though but this only goes up to 4mm
Their tubing is 0.14 inches (.36mm) whereas the thin stuff works on 0.5mm increments and is about .24mm thick so each tube will fit really snug into the next size up . . . . clever eh !
I'll try them on monday . . . fingers crossed
Jon
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Yes I'm still considering that book as was recommended a while back by Fireman Rick. Trouble is the detail supplied with the kit for BN 1 is already WAY beyond my capabilities <:(
It may be a nice book to track down though.
Example of detail supplied along with a pic of my wood stock for this build . . . over 200 strips mostly under 4mm.
Spent some time laying the parts of the perimeter waterway between the frames. Each piece has the tiniest curve and has to be set to fig snugly between the outer planking and two really thin strips that make up the remainder of the waterways . . . . and of course they aren't there yet ! The for deck ones are 1/32 inch thicker as the waterway IS raised here. It was a good thing I'd bunged in the support bits first as they did aid assembly.
The nibs on the primary bulkheads are now getting soooooo fragile :}
Next jobs are to rough fit the jib and stern stuff prior to fitting the top two side planks . . . then the crazy job of adding all the intermediate stanchions. Aaaaagh %%
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They certainly stock a huge range Frank, but 'tis not thin real wall . . . I will contact them about their metric range though but this only goes up to 4mm
Their tubing is 0.14 inches (.36mm) whereas the thin stuff works on 0.5mm increments and is about .24mm thick so each tube will fit really snug into the next size up . . . . clever eh !
I'll try them on monday . . . fingers crossed
Jon
Hi Jon.
what you are talking about would something telescopic like a car aerial....idea.!!!!!!! Although you have some bananas for masts if it was a working model the tension on the shrouds could have pulled it straight.
Would billings not have wood you could use http://www.billingboats.com/accessories.html (http://www.billingboats.com/accessories.html)
frank.
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more data
http://www.billingboats.com/instructions/BB600%20Bluenose_Instruction.pdf (http://www.billingboats.com/instructions/BB600%20Bluenose_Instruction.pdf)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hjc-09fl0g (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hjc-09fl0g)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHZ_NqICh5U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHZ_NqICh5U)
Frank
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More stuff to consider . . . . many thanks again Frank. Not doing much today as it's dry and mild out so I should go wandering !
Test fitting the basic bow and stern bits. These are laser cut parts but the stern piece is 3mm too narrow so now soaking in warm water and bleach prior to easing and drying :}
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Yo Frank . . .
Tis not a working model and it's bigger than the Billing models but yes the shrouds may pull the lower part of the masts straight but probably not the upper section . . . the main mast is over 2 feet high and it would be easier to build if they were straight . . . . When assembling the keel and frames I made a tiny error (check and re-check eh) . . I'm about 0.5mm out of true vertically. Not a lot but if I continue up (leaning tower syndrome) this will only get worse so a nice dead straight lump of wood is my best bet.
A telescopic ariel might sort it . . . probably no more difficult to cut than thin brass but not easily soldered . . . . It's to save me making 30 odd fixing rings to fit onto the masts and spars in various places. The kit comes with a pack of ting ultra thin brass strips and I'm not confident of my fabrication skills :}
Keep the input coming please as it makes me stop and think . . . something I'm not good at.
Have a good day
Jon
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Just a little bit more, then a good tidy up and wipe down and get the poor dining table back for a few hours . . . {-)
First sanding and shaping of the bowsprit. It's 9 inches long, square at the back, tapering towards the front but following a straight line along the bottom. I mean to say !
The back bit (stern/counter/rear/aft/etc) is decidedly more interesting . . there are three laser cut parts and the part between the top rail (the monkey rail) and the main rail is only 0.5mm x 2.5mm. Well try getting this out of the printed sheet in one piece . . . not a chance; so I'm gonna make one 1.5mm thick. Steamed over the kettle and now strapped up hoping it works okay.
Day off tomorrow . . from modelling that is. Have a good week y'all
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Hi,
A couple of scans from the book:
Bluenose 2
Saga of the great fishing schooners
Measured drawings by L.B. Jenson.
Regards
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All the way from lovely Australia . . . . thank you !
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A quiet evening . . . . making a few corrections, fine sanding, priming brass bits and thinking . . .how to build and paint the sides and rails.
Just a few pics now as I may be away tomorrow
1 How the bulwarks should be built . . . it's the painting and oiling of the various parts that is stumping me.
2 The front with heavy timbers added where the anchor cable holes will be (hawse ?), chafing blocks will be added later. At bottom front is a sliver of timber that needed adding . . still needs final sanding.
3 The dreaded stern. Using the jig in pic 4 I formed the curved section over the kettle steam . . I think I've got away with it.
4 Now forming two 'fashion pieces' (using two no. 1/32 x 1/16 strips steamed and laminated) . . . one for each side of the stern. They will make the corner joint between side and rear planking. Not sure if I can pull this detail off though.
That's it. Goodnight All
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It's a little cold and bleak here in the Tamar Vally so . . . . . .
As I'm now fabricating part of the stern, at deck level, prior to spray priming I thought it best to have a quick peek at the bigger fittings that came with this kit.
Two packs of sailcloth, six rolls assorted threads (not sure I'll be going with black though . . . just too black), brass rods, wires and strips and a bunch of assorted, but detailed, white metal bits.
There are two little bits (bottom left) that act as shock absorbers for the two main sheets and I need to plan how to install one of these into the hole in the transom assembly . . . mmmm……..
Now looking at the blocks and deadeyes (there are another 20 or so on the laser cut parts). I really need 16 year old eyes and fingers to even pick these bits up. But that's well in the future I guess.
Bought some Tamiya masking tape, primer, matt white and matt black . . . and button polish and matt lacquer for the decks . . . . more testing needed methinks
How on earth am I supposed to make around a hundred 1/64 x 3/64 inch scupper holes ?
Ah well !
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The real Bluenose stern detail showing the buffer thingy . . . this was in her latter days and looking a little tired :}
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Just ensuring all the beams are correct for the main cabin thing. It's also important if I wish to taper the aft deck planking in line with the cabin sides.
From the pic you can see the initial primer has been sprayed onto the outer waterway and the frames but leaving unpainted 'dots' for the intermediate stanchions (the frame tops still have tape on so are free of paint). The deck cabin is to have hardwood timbers on the corner joints and top and bottom 'mouldings' all around, a couple of portholes and an entrance door at the back . . . yes and a roof :}
Might tidy up my work table and the spray bay (spare room) later !
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hi jon.
more iron ware
http://stores.ebay.de/stebaorg?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 (http://stores.ebay.de/stebaorg?_trksid=p2047675.l2563)
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This looks like a great place to go shopping so I'm off there now. . . . many many thanks hmsantrim :-) :-) :-)
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I seem to be hibernating at the moment . . oh well.
Took a very brave step forward today. I fitted the first of the hull planks . . . well most of it 'cos I need to be careful how I make the hole for the jib. After wetting the stern end of the walnut plank I'd left it clipped in place overnight to dry and have begun gluing today. If my courage keeps up I'll do its counterpart on the other side later. I hope to go on and add the next ones down(these are wider and thicker) then fix them all together at the front and make the hole for the jib boom.
I now have very true dowels for the masts . . . very helpful Cornwall Model Boats checked them on their counter and sent them in a 3ft long tube. www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk
I now need how to ensure the paint sticks to the brass. I cleaned them with thinners and used a self etch primer but not perfect. {:-{
Bit cooler here today. A mere 7C. So staying in this afternoon :P
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This is going to be a long build methinks. . . . :embarrassed:
Cutting the new dowels to length prior to shaping, drilling, sanding and dozens of other things . . . they ain't 'arf complicated. There are 9 pieces in all, some extending to 15 inches long so I'm pleased I held out for really straight ones. The lower parts of the two masts now have tenons at one end to ensure alignment in the keel when fitted and they will need sanding down to taper just the rear upper edge !
As the planking, stanchions and rails will take so long I thought it best to begin these other little jobs.
That's enough for today . . . :-)
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Tool time . . . . if anyone's interested, what I've used so far !
The items in the photo (plus more sanding sheets and clips) . . . and note my pink square . . . it was in a cracker and it's brilliant :D
Elmers filler
Mini drill
Spray primer
Dining room table, chair and lamp
Kitchen towels
Kettle
Post-its (I squeeze glue onto them)
and tonight I managed to make the two tiny rectangular holes in the main boom with a drill and a file. Oh for a heated workshop :embarrassed:
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Maybe you need to add "heater" to the list of tools... :-))
Looking good so far!!
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Ah yes . . . I moved a portable oil filled electric one in just the other evening . . . almost mid-winter here so guess I should move hemispheres :}
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I'm not going to risk fixing the next plank on each side until I'm totally happy with everything and the last bits of glue have had a full day to set because the stern has quite a bend in it.
Righty ho then . . . as I have lovely straight dowels I made up all masts and spars (I made the jib up last week). It was enjoyable but fiddly and I even resorted to my old 240v drill for one bit :}
A new self etch primer arrived today. I'll post the results in due course. Snowing with bluish skies :-)
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Hi Jon.
found this in the files when you click on to watch the videos there are other parts of models on right side page
frank
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwlxoxofs0TFd_5zPm0depQ/videos (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwlxoxofs0TFd_5zPm0depQ/videos)
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Hello Frank
Yes I've been trawling through youtube and have bookmarked this one . . . fascinating stuff. I've also just found a complete build for this particular model . . . 25-30 hours worth. See you in 2016 :}
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Though there is some good building information on there, it is not all accurate.
The videos are of the rebuild; actually Bluenose III. Though they called it II, it is actually a complete new Bluenose III.
They made lots of modifications, which have gotten them into trouble and as such, the new Bluenose III has not been allowed to sail, as it failed its acceptance testing. As such it is still stuck in dock.
Such a shame. The original Bluenose was a true champion. Bluenose II was a great ambassador for many years. The new Bluenose III has been stuck in controversy with much government meddling. It has brought shame, on such a famous ship.
Hopefully 2015, will see the new Bluenose III be allowed to sail and again become the ambassador that it has always been.
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Yo Fireman Rick !
I'm building the original Bluenose from the Shipways kit (not sure it's available anymore) I looked at the Danish kit (I think they now do a 1:100 one as well) but this appeared to be over simplified and lacking in many things; The Italian model boat company do a slightly crude Bluenose II and I do not have the skills or experience to do a scratch build. Hence my choice. I do look at the various incantations of this famous schooner but I'm trying to stick to the original build circa 1920 . . . . and I do mean . . .'try'. Hee Hee
I spend between 1 and 3 hours a day working on the model so I suspect BN III will be finished and sorted long before mine is . . . . let's hope it visits Falmouth over here in Cornwall :}
As the hull is nearly 2 1/2 feet long I've decided to shorten the planks to enable me to affix them before the glue sets. This will mean real slow going until I gain confidence {-)
So plank layer no. two has been started, along with one hatch and a little more work on the cabin.
3C here now . . . . brrrrrrrrr !
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Some little bits arrived in the post today and if useful I will get a few more. The stunning little belaying pin, although possibly the wrong style, is 7mm long. 30 or so brass ones came with the kit but I liked the look of these. The little rudder hinge (I'll need 2 more) may be adaptable and save me messing up a scratch build; and Bluenose had lots of turnbuckles at various times but in the end had two like this . . . I may have to make the open type if I cannot source them {:-{
I've added the stanchions to one side and it's a good thing boats have two almost identical side . . one to practice on and one to improve (pity they don't have three !) I've sanded and tidied up the rear ones but only just doing the forward ones . . tedious !
The funny binding and stubby old dowel is to protect the leading edges of the upper four planking strips . . . I carefully drilled and sanded a 5mm hole through these planks while the lower two planks were not completely glued solid . . . just in case it went wrong and I had to fit new ones. Hope that sounds right.
Stormy thundery ice lumps night last night (I gather there's no such thing as hail in the winter :} )
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Hi Jon.
some more BN builds.
frank
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8944-bluenose-by-matija-scale-150-completed/?hl=%2Bbluenose+%2Bschooner (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8944-bluenose-by-matija-scale-150-completed/?hl=%2Bbluenose+%2Bschooner)
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7703-bluenose-by-mrcc-billing-boats-175/?hl (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7703-bluenose-by-mrcc-billing-boats-175/?hl)= bluenose schooner
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7508-bluenose-by-7provinces-–-billing-boats-–-175-first-wooden-ship-build/?hl=+bluenose (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7508-bluenose-by-7provinces-–-billing-boats-–-175-first-wooden-ship-build/?hl=+bluenose) +schooner
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6639-schooner-bluenose-by-darrel-wright-model-shipways-164-small/?hl=%2Bbluenose+%2Bschooner (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6639-schooner-bluenose-by-darrel-wright-model-shipways-164-small/?hl=%2Bbluenose+%2Bschooner)
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Essential reading methinks Frank. Many many thanks for your help.
Sanding, filing and cleaning up this evening . . . my recently purchased cutting broaches are earning their keep :-)
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A late night thanks to your links Frank and I even got waylaid watching a genius build a barque training ship . Some peoples skills are just amazing (link below)
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5860-gorch-fock-2-threemast-barque-by-nils-langemann-scale195-1958-cadet-training-sailing-tallship-as-she-appeared-in-the-1960s-already-completed-to-d/#entry168883
. . . so good morning all, and a windy one too here in the west.
While kinda watching CBB I marked and cut out the main rails in card. I upturned the hull onto the card with sanding pads underneath to ensure a reasonably close fit and marked all around with a pencil . . they're a mm or so oversize to allow for slight drawing and cutting inaccuracies.
I really should take the photo's with a scale rule alongside. The finished model will be just under 3 feet long and about 5ins wide.
Rough sanded the stanchions to rail height. If I was building it again I'd cut off the supplied bulkhead ones and fit hardwood stubs alongside.
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Dreadful weather (snow, rain and winds) so coffee and fiddling :}
Gave up with the cardboard template thingy for the main rails . . . cutting out, sanding and fitting several lengths together too scary, so . . . . after soaking a 6mm x 1.6mm in hot water and bleach I gently bent it to fit the whole of one side and it's now weighted down and drying . . . I'll then have to add the two pin-rails but this is all painted stuff so . . . .we'll see later !
Thought it time to 'play' with the tiny supplied brass strips. I'll need to make up 40 rings of assorted sizes 3mm to 8mm). I'll need to paint them and glue these to the spars; then drill for all the little fixings <:(
I've been reading the build of a 4 mast steel barque . . . . if interested just have a look at this (click images to expand) . . . the mans a genius !
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5553-pamir-4-mast-barque-by-nils-langemann-scale-196-1905-cargo-sailing-tallship-as-she-appeared-since-19511952-lost-1957-already-completed-to-date/page-17 (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5553-pamir-4-mast-barque-by-nils-langemann-scale-196-1905-cargo-sailing-tallship-as-she-appeared-since-19511952-lost-1957-already-completed-to-date/page-17)
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Hi Jon.
thought the picture showing the tins of scran was the crews rations for the day... {-) s`pose it makes a change from some old lead acid batteries for glue weights. Neffer mind the weather get yon Paddys Irishhh cream open begorraah..... {-) {-) {-)
Frank
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Hi Jon.
I have your next projekt lined up for you could always make a start on it when you feel you need a break for the BN. You have all the raw materials there to make a start on the hull. It will make ideal use of the "bannanas and twigs".... {-)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381113522054?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381113522054?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Frank
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Nice one Frank . . . an interesting challenge. If I can get BN done to a reasonable standard I'll have to go looking for something like that . . . Something different !
Gonna leave the pretend Irish Cream as a weight . . . I've found some Brandy . . . . Woha %%
Any plans for the weekend ?
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A laser cut log boat.... Sort of misses the point a bit doesn't it? Looks good though.
Following this Bluenose build with interest, looks complex and fiddly but coming along nicely...
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A dugout . . . . simples eh.
After seeing lots of other builds I think this kit is only a complex as the builder fancies. I've damaged eyes and fingers . . . not a good combination for this building stuff
Proof of pudding eh :}
Enjoy summer down under 'cos it's heaving down here.
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very little progress today as feeling poorly so a hot toddy and off to bed soon :((
Rails have been re-soaked and bent a little more as they seem to spring back slightly when removed. Until the rail issues been resolved I'm not doing very much more on the hull; although fragile, the final sanding may be easier without the rails in place . . .mmmmm......
I've worked out an easy way to make the brass rings . . . wind them around various dowels a few times, run the Dremel saw diskup through the lot (to insulate I used a large nail sander on pressed it tight against the back) and then trimmed and reshaped into a circle. I'll fine tune them as they get fitted. The biggest will be 8mm and the smallest around 3mm.
Some tricky brass bits later but I'm learning as I go . . . hoo hoo :}
Ordered a few cute looking bits from Modellingtimbers on the Isle Of Man. They do look good !
That's it. Stay safe and if i'm not here tomorrow I'm in bed feeling sorry for myself {-)
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We seem to have lost a part of this build . . . It looks like February has gone AWOL . . . Oh well. Probably nothing very important. I'll repost some of the pics though (stanchions in prior to sanding, planking underway, parts and soaking and bending main rails to suit curve of bulkhead) :D
I dug out all the laser cut sheets (and made a start on cleaning up and assembling the main winch thingy) There are 8 fishing boat hulls, lots of silly fragile sail hoops, the bow and transom items have been removed already, some mast rings that have a hole 1mm too big and a couple of deck and mast fittings. I'm unlikely to use the tiny triangular blocks and the flag is new from Cornwall model boats as the supplied one is the current Canadian national flag . . . silly !
Row FOUR of the planking underway . . . tapering the transom end down to about 2mm to ease fitting. Hoping this is okay.
There's lots of snow on the ground but sitting in full February sunshine . . . . s'lovely :-)
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Well it seems it's true . . . Modelboatmayhem have confirmed that a day way lost during a site update last evening. Not a great loss here but I do hope you guys are all okay. . . . I do need to graze other builds on here so I may do that right now %%
Not a lot to report today . . . 4 rows of side planking installed and now studying the stern a little more as the planking needs to be not only neat but even on both sides where it meets. I'm off to the big smoke first thing tomorrow (Truro) so I'll see ya all soon
Jon :-)
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S T U C K :}
Fiddling with my bum and the bends are getting quite awkward 'cos I think I should have tapered all of them from the word go. I'm soaking them well and affixing with clips until dry and now tapering but not sure now where to go with the next ones.
It doesn't help that the transom is a little weird anyway. The planks (the filed off ones in the photo) have a curved fashion piece (my first attempt is 2mm too short so bending a couple more) where they meet the transom boarding while the ones I'm now laying seem to meet directly with the transom boarding.
Another coffee and a little more thought :-)
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I think it'll be okay :-)
Now on row 6 and I've slimmed down the rear part of the next planks to a minimum of about 1.7mm . . . add to this I've also been adding a very slight bevelled edge to encourage a smoother curve (nothing clever, just a sanding block) . . . and it seems to be getting there, and I might be able to gradually increase the plank width again as I move down the counter.
Care has to be taken at the bow as well. The planks are carefully shaped to fit into the rebate (well okay, side cutters and sand block) and a slight sanding on the inside to increase the glued area and make everything nice and snug. It's going to be important to get a neat curve down the planking.
No pics 'cos there's not much to see at the moment.
Thinking about the waterways again and wondering if I can 'nib' in the decking properly . . . and as for 80 odd scupper/drains . . . these should be 1/64 by 3/64 th inch. Yeah Right. My smallest broaching file is 3/64 square and jewellers files will be just too delicate . . . . ANY IDEAS ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Warn here now but will probably freeze in the early hours :}
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Still at it . . . . . gluing in row 6. The red and silver clip at the very back is adding a slight twist to the damp plank that as yet is not glued in.
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That is a clever method of clamping with the paper clips, very innovative! :-))
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Jon,
Greetings.
You have mentioned several times now the " . . . and as for 80 odd scupper/drains . . . these should be 1/64 by 3/64th inch. ".
Have you got a picture from the instructions and/or box top of the area of concern?
If I / we see a picture, maybe able to offer some thoughts.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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. . . and as for 80 odd scupper/drains . . . these should be 1/64 by 3/64 th inch.
Looking at the planking, on the plan. The top two planks are the gunwhales. If it is possible, remove these top two planks, you can get stuff to ease even CA glue. The scuppers could then be filed into the bottom edge of the first gunwhale plank. A jig would make this filing easy.
1/64" is near as darn it 0.4 mm
You may be able to get a 0.4mm or 1/64 drill bit. I know you can get 0.5. At this scale 0.5mm would not be noticed.
You would need to make a jig, and be very careful when setting it up. You could drill the holes at either end and then use the drill bit as a router for the last bit in the middle
Or, thinking laterally.
At 1/64th, these scuppers would probably not allow water to escape, and they would be difficult to paint without fouling.
If you make a small tool with a tip of 1/64 x 3/64 and use it to punch a depression into the wood. This would be easier to place than any jig, especially when following the waterways.
When paining, you could paint into the depression with black first. Then when you come to paint your gunwhales as long as you keep the brush light, you could paint over the scupper, without painting in to it.
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Hi,
For a working scupper for my Schooner which sails in some pretty rough water at times.
I got some old square aircraft hinges, filled in the holes with epoxy, sanded and painted, they work a treat.
Although fairly large they can be resized easily.
My schooner has the deck a bit lower than the railing height so to make sure I can get the water off the deck I made the scupper covers (?)
Regards
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Lots of wonderful advice here so lots of food for thought.
I do wish I'd filed these in earlier and the supplied instructions do mention filing slots for this but no advice on how to do it . . however reading other builds they suggested drilling from the inside out (to position accurately) and then filing from the outside in to ensure aligning with both the deck and the stanchion spacings. Also mentioned is that making them slightly oversize is okay !
Sounded easy two weeks ago :D
I've attached a quick sketch but removing and filing now looks impractical due to the laying of the upper planks. Can miniature cutting broaches (ideally with just one cutting face) be got ?
I could then make up a thin metal guard to protect the stanchions and waterway from both the drilling (hand) and the subsequent filing.
No hurry lovely guys as the planking is still working out at just two a day . . . hoo hoo :-)
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I think I need to buy another kit and start again . . . . tee hee and there's one of these Shipways kits for sale on a well known site . . . if anyone's daft enough of course.
I cannot realistically undo what's been done so far so I'm stuck with making a thin right-angled guard, drilling a 1mm hole from the inside and using my smallish broach from the outside to make bigger than planned rectangular holes. I've been messing about and the smallest I can achieve will be approx 1.3mm by 2.5mm and it will just have to do. O0
If anyone else builds one of these . . . PLANK UP AND DOWN FROM THE WATER DRAIN LINE. Use a stanchion template to locate each filed slot. Ensure all frames are exactly the same distance apart and that the proposed waterway lines are ridiculously exact !!!!!
There . . . . kinda sorted
Few new bits arrived today from The Isle of Man . . . . they's lovely and I'll do a pic this weekend.
Cold wishes everyone :-)
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Jon,
What Vendor on The Isle of Man are You using?
Thank You.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Oversized holes will probably work well as there is at least a chance they will function as scuppers, and they will be less likely to foul when painting. :-))
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Hello,
Is the boat EVER going to get wet ??????????.
Why bother so much about the Scuppers!!!!.
John.
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Righty Ho . . . .
first Mr Rick . . . lovely little bits and bobs from Keith at Modelling Timbers. Starting to play with the bowsprit so using some of their bits as those eyebolts have 1mm and 1.2mm holes, and they are threaded so should grip well when cut down and glued in !
John . . . that is well worth considering . . . see pic of original and Mr Tiger . . . If I do go for it I will make oversize. Great point !
Very little done today but what the heck . . . it was sunny :-)
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Jon,
Having see the picture of the scupper drains, I might suggest going solid wood, then cutting them afterwards using something like a Dremel 569 1/16" Carbide Grout Removal Bit or similar small/fine cutting/slotting bit.
Could also use the Dremel Engraving Cutter - 113 (photo below).
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Oooooh dear . . . . I tried making a hole for the first 'scupper'. I used a thin right angle metal strip to protect the waterway and the stanchion and drilled a 1mm hole outwards. I then used a tiny cutting broach but the timber started splintering around the hole and the problem is that a repair would be too difficult at this size and in these locations. I then tried (thanks Fireman Rick) my smallest router type bit on the Dremel on the exact opposite side of the boat with similar results . . . The timber is too rubbishy for both these methods so . . I opened up both holes to around 1.5mm x 3mm and they look like mooring line (springs) routes :D So no bloddy scupper holes on this ol' boat and the crew will just have to paddle :-)
Row 10 of the hull planking is underway so, 20 done 40 to 50 to go . . . . . . Aggggggggh ! ! ! !
No pics today
TTFN
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Going to tidy up a very messy ding table and watch the BAFTA's so took a couple of pics of planking and a rather large water drain hole :-)
Going to fiddle with some of the little bits tomorrow :-) :-) :-)
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Beautiful sunny day so very little work on the boat (ship). Tidied up the garden and believe it or not, the bloomin' grass is growing actively !
! layer of planking laid and finished the bowsprit bar finding a suitable wood colour/stain. How many connections does 6 inches by 1/4 inch of dowel need. Two will go down to the bow, 4 will go back to the hull sides, 2 will go up to the foremast and the little fine ones will take running rigging blocks. Sheesh :D
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I have decided to avoid buying any more ready-made mast hoops . . . they're visually too much out of scale, so it's on to 1.6mm and 2mm wide brass and copper strips. The brass ones came with the kit. I'll need to build some kind of precision drilling rig. I've got Mr Dremel and lots of ultra fine bits and I'll need to drill the holes in-situ to insert the little eye thingies . . . . mmmmm ?
As I'm almost at the waterline with the planking I've taken the opportunity to glue some odd lumps of off-cuts to the inside of the hull to take the chain plate fixings. 5 will need to be fixed with tiny pins on each side of each mast and I don't think the 1.5mm thick hull would suffice.
I'm at waterline level amidships but the bow rises another 15mm or more so I'm continuing on with another 4 rows of walnut and then I'll switch over to the lime. If it doesn't work . . . so be it :embarrassed:
I've quite a lot of little deck features to make (nothing like the number on Bluenose II) so if I get fed up with all this blooming planking I'll clean up the workbench (table) and fiddle with some of these as I cannot consider the decking just yet.
Cuppa time :-)
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Silly me . . . . forgot to add the photos . . . . obviously the bowsprit is only 'posed' :D
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Ooops . . . . this just had to be wrong. I'd been looking at other builds of this boat and used eye-pins on the hatches (there is a smaller one as well). I need to replace them with rings that lay flat so a canvas cover can be added. The main cabin roof is underway and will include a compass housing, an access slide and a skylight. The vent/window is slightly oversize !
While I'm here, has anyone owned or used a Dremel pillar drill/workstation thing, and . . . does anyone know of an easy way to make a mast ring for belying pins. Inside diameter of 8mm, outside around 12mm ? ;D
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Simples :} :} :} :}
Grey wire bead thread looped through ready made 1.8mm little rings. the equally tiny foot grating will have to be sunk into the deck as it will need to be almost flush !
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A little further with the main cabin roof. The rule book said to plank the roof as the aft deck so . . . .lots of little tapered planks, and the beginnings of the slide. Far too fine to sand but cutting a slight angle along the stripwood is quite frustrating so I held the short strips down with masking tape, assembled to fit on top of more upside-down masking tape and then glued the whole lot on in one piece. Seemed to work but took over an hour. And I found pencilled edges less messy to do than charcoal :D
Quiet day today . . .other jobs :-)
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The post has arrived . . . some kinda center-punch . . . it's silver and spring loaded but I've no idea how to use it :D , a few stupidly tiny parts like 3 and 4mm dia. brass sheaves to insert into the gaff booms and .........
.......a wonderful toy all the way from the US for £15. They are sort of rotary cutting broaches cum routers starting at a mere 1mm . . . and boy to they work. Timber just melts away. Trouble is, because they're rotary they tend to wander off the straight and narrow so I'd need a jig or template of something clever.
Building boats sure throws up some interesting challenges eh . . . . think I'll build a Yamato or Sovereign of the Seas next . . . hoo hoo!
but no building today as I've just gotten in, I'm a little tired and I've just found a bottle of red . . . cheers :-) :-) :-) :-)
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Looks like the forum has lost another day . . . :D
On average I spend anywhere between 1 and 2 hours a day on my little boat and I've yet to plank down as far as the whole waterline . . . and that's less than half way down the hull. I estimate I'll need to install around another 80 feet of the stuff and yet I've been looking at builds where the guys appear to complete this part of the build in days. and sometimes they add a 'posh' layer above a base layer. Praps I just need to get my act together. But . . I can do a 1/2 plank length on each side at the same time, so . . . 6-7 mins to trim to size and sand, 30 mins to soak, 30 mins to dry on the frames, 7-8 mins to glue and secure and then allow at least 20 mins before I can offer up the next two planks for sizing . . . so just one full layer of planking per day seems to be all I'll ever attain. Bummer :((
I've actually passed the waterline in the middle part of the hull and if I do two more layers I'll be totally below the waterline and on to basswood (tilia something . . a type of lime I think) which although only 3mm wide may be more flexible than the walnut. I've just about achieved a neat meeting of the planking at the bow and more importantly at the stern. I've roughly cut back the overlong planks under the counter and will face up the transom planking and the dinky fashion pieces one day in the distant future.
My little router type bits are far too brutal unless fully constrained so unlikely to be used for this build. Perhaps a big steel battleship or a mulberry harbour one day . . . . . %%
St Val's day tomorrow so I hope you guys that have a partner or just plain fancy someone, have picked up some flowers from the garage on the way home. Hoo Hoo :D
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I kept going last night with one eye on the TV and one on the planking and the walnut is finished and the first of the basswood is going on. The actual waterline is around 6 walnut strips up in the middle part of the boat but only 1/2 a strip up at the bow and stern so she looks a little odd at present.
I also did a quick sanding prior to starting with the basswood because although the basswood is 1/64 th inch thicker it sands very readily and would soon disappear :D
The sun is out, tis a lovely day so I'm off out shortly. :-)
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The hull planking continues . . . . . . %%
I added two wider (1/4 inch) strips to the lower part of the frames. The first one sat nicely into the 'rabbit', but both took a little care where they sit into the rebate running up the bow. As the slope/rake of the bow is extremely gentle, care is really needed all the way up. Where any strips meet either this rebate or 'run off' at the stern I have thinned the timber down, just a fraction of a millimetre, hoping to get more glue adhesion. (PVA)
I'm running the planks just past the stern and trimming off when dry with my fine saw. I'll finish later with a sanding block and then add the rudder stock.
around 24 (total) planking runs to go . . . perhaps a big balsa sheet and lots of filler . . . . . .
As as for sanding . . . cor blimey gov' . . . there's now more wood on the floor (and everywhere else) than what arrived in the box :-)
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Dilemma :o
As it didn't seem possible to follow the drawings planking plan exactly without tapering all the lower planks I went ahead and added a few planks until I'd gotten past the awkward keel/transom bit. But now the twist and bends of each plank (although possibly achievable with a good soak) are getting a little awkward.
If I do foce in some bends I am also worried they won't be running across the frames in the correct place and might spoil the true profile of the hull ?
The gentlest way seems to be running a few planks across the remaining opening as per photo, and fill in either side. There would be no nasty twists and turns, I can access the hull from the inside while closing up and the whole lot will be sanded, filled if necessary and painted with anti-foul.
Off on a boat trip tomorrow . . . up the Tamar river :-)
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There is an old trading schooner at Morwhellam Quay if you get up that far.
Ned
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Well I'm not sure what's occurring . . . a few responses from you lovely people have failed to reach me; and some have been deleted by MBM as 'lost days' when they fiddle with their server so . . .
Thank you everyone one who has contributed to my first woodie build. Every single comment has been useful (even if ignored) 'cos it makes me stop and think. keep 'em coming please O0
First . . . my boat trip tomorra. It's leaving from Saltash and goes up-river for about 90 mins. It'll be great if it reaches Morewhellam else it's a mere 15 minute drive and an entry ticket (perhaps). Thanks Ned.
The book RACE TO FAME THE INSIDE STORY OF THE BLUENOSE has been 'won' and its on its way to me . . . . looking forward to reading it. In the meantime, and because this basswood stuff is soo soakable, I'm adding another couple of rows of planking, just as before. . . . ho hum :D :D :D
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My last posting failed so I'll try again . . .
Nearly there . . . 10 more 3/32 by 1/16 inch to go and then a belt sander. Industrial strength.
Lovely day on the Tamar and Lynher rivers and loads of activity too. Work boats, Naval, fishing, bumps and grinds and pleasure. Didn't get to Morwhellam but still a lovely day.
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Well then . . . belt sander, bucket of polyfiller and slap on some paint ant it's finished a year ahead of schedule :D
[size=78%]I've cut off the over-run planks and sanded flat . . (why oh why does this forum mess around with pasted text ???). The [/size]little laser cut part is the rudder stock, and it fits beautifully.
Filling in the last couple of planks was an absolute doodle. Because the hole was around 1 3/4 planks wide I used an oversize strip, cut roughly to length and width and then a bit of course sandpaper. Simples. I've just enjoyed dribbling some PVA down into the hold between the frames to increase general strength and if I now sand clean through I'll hit glue rather than air . . . hee hee {-)
I've just given the bum a 60 grade sanding but from here on I'm on a learning curve so advice sought please. They (whoever they are) say never sand with paper and fingers, use a block . . but how does a block go around all those sexy curves ? ? ?
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That's looking good there Jon.
Glad you had a good day on the water.
My old sailing grounds when I was an apprentice
We had a base at Jupiter Point on the Lynher with
All wooden craft.
Big cutters , Montague whalers, and RNSA 14 ft dinghies..
Gave me a grounding and a love for all ships wooden and
wind driven.
Don't get too much dust up the nose.
Ned
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Cheers Ned . . . great stuff . If you get bored do tell me more :-) and there still appears to be a base for apprentices there.
My boating was Solent and south coast based on sports cruisers and an old Taiwanese built trawler . . . still a bit tarty I guess :D
. . . and the dust. I've sneezed all afternoon.
See ya soon
Jon
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[size=78%]I've just given the bum a 60 grade sanding but from here on I'm on a learning curve so advice sought please. They (whoever they are) say never sand with paper and fingers, use a block . . but how does a block go around all those sexy curves ? ? ?[/size]
Try gluing the sandpaper to a strip of 2 or 3 mm balsa, works for me....
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Hi, I do not know if you know this but there are foam backed sanding disk to fit angle grinders the are used in wood turning used to get inside bowls come in different grit sizes , just don't apply to much pressure as you will know .
David
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I'll source both . . . . Rainy day thank you's Mr Penguin and David 48 :-)
And while I'm saying thanks I think it's a good time to show of my latest woodworking skills . . . a stand to hold her upright as my giant grips are now redundant. I'm so impressed I think I'll make a dining room suite next . . . dresser, table, chairs :D
In summery (my thoughts) if anyone out there tackles this kit:
Make the first planks the waterway ones with carefully filed little drain holes
Plank UP to main rail level
Add the intermediate stanchions to strengthen these couple of planks
Work DOWN . . soak planks (not exceeding 4/5mm) for 20 mins, hold in place until dry, glue in with PVA not CA, thoroughly clean off any glue that squeezes out onto the frames
Taper the last 6 inches or so of every plank that meets the lower curve of the transom
And basswood is twice as easy to work than walnut or mahogany !
Need a dust extractor . . . Achooooooo !!!!!
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Nothing more today Guys 'cos I've got 'sanders finger' {-)
So out with the plasters, vacuum cleaner and feather duster . . . I just wish the Russians would let me sleep in peace :D
I'll be using stainable Elmers filler for most of the posh fills but if anyone can recommend a system for priming and filling the main part of the hull
. . . . do I fill first, sand, fill, sand and prime last or fill sand prime, fill and sand in the hope errors are more visible on a painted surface ???
. . . and what's the best filler options ?
See ya all tomorrow :-)
Jon
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A quiet day in the sunshine I think . . . . pottering :D
So keel stock is in and the hull is partially sanded. The walnut is about ready for a finish but the basswood, particularly the awkward curves, has a little way to go. I'm finding the filler is almost too easy to sand away when used to fill anything over 0.5mm although it's fine for tiny cracks and open grain.
All the waterway boards are now in, two each side on the fore deck and one thinner one each side on the main (aft) deck. 3B pencil edging looks good. These will be sprayed off white later.
Dry fitting the main anchor hawser thingies and rubbing blocks prior to spraying. I spent some time hand drilling the holes through the hull and gently opening up to 1/8th inch with a small round cutting broach. The kit provides off round metal outer hull parts for the hawser holes but not the chain . . . and I think I'll have to research correct anchor details as I'm confused (again) :D
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Not much done on the boat today . . . shopping and exploring a newly found engine house . .and then a central heating pipe joint failed. A plastic one under the house. Hopefully sorted now :D
A little cleaning and a spray and the hawse things are ready to add. I always try and do more that one item when spraying so I did part of the winch as well.
Took nearly an hour to establish the bloomin' waterline, Keel up on table and 3B pencil clipped to a square.
Cold wet windy and highest tides for 20 years . . . ha well :-)
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Bloddy primer . . . . shows up flaws, lumps and hollows. Back to filling and sanding so no pictures worth showing {:-{
I've blackened some thin brass wire and am trying to strop a block. 'Tis very fiddly, and this tryout is with one of the biggest blocks in the kit . . a triple that's about 4 times bigger than the smallest ones . . . no chance without giant binoculars strapped to a telescope and 14 year old fingers . .oh and floodlighting !
And why does CA stick to fingers first :D
Hail, sleet and snow, see ya tomorra :-)
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still sanding {:-{
still priming {:-{
still filling {:-{
And the annoying thing is . . the planking looked good from day one. Back to GRP next time (if there is a next time)
POOH !
Found some great old pics on the internet (thanks Frank) . . . the schooner and house pic is interesting eh !
and as for stroppy blocks . . . rainy days :D
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What can I say . . . . BLOCKS !
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As it's been sooooo wet and cold and 'orrible here in Cornwall today I've stayed in and pottered
I'm just about there with all the sanding and priming and filling . . I now need to find a really good bottom colour. Kit says copper red which is close to venetian red, but I'd like it as a matt acrylic spray and I can't find that yet.
I've got the waterway planks in and painted flat white. 2 x 3/32 ech side at the front and 1 x 1/16 each side at the back (sorry fore and aft . . . you'd never guess I owned real big boats for years)
Now I need to finish painting up the gunwales (spelling) add a thin gunwale strip and start building up the side rails.
or should I start on the decking . . . . . . . :-)
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As the rain might just stop tonight . . . I'll be off to Launceston tomorrow so . . . I'll post these now in case I'm back late
The deck planks are 1/16 inch x 3/32 inch and on the upper (aft) deck they curve and taper (bummer) and they should all be 'nibbed (see plan) and I'm not sure if my eyes and fingers are up to this type of art form . . . but it is quite important to get the planking that goes alongside the cabin looking right. I've only 'tacked' the cabins fore and aft planks with PVA where they cross the keel and if right I'll add glue and clamp down onto the bearers which follow the curve of the deck profile (hopefully). I'll then do a similar thing with the nearby hatch and then start planking . . . WoW :D
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No laughing . . . all these are un-sanded and loose laid trying to work out a system. Ideally planking starts from the centre but if it goes a little awry I'll introduce either a wider or narrow one on each side as needed. I'm still not sure about the nibbling thingy though :D
I believe this is the Bluenose in this old launch pic ...it's a wonderful scene :-)
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Jon,
Greetings.
Have you seen the free 138 page Bluenose Practicum??
http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?87 (http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?87)
(It is about 2/3rd's down the page)
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Got it thanks Rick . . . YESTERDAY :}
Would you believe it eh. . . . . printing it out right now.
It has lots of useful stuff which should compliment what came with the kit
Cheers and thanks
Jon
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Hee hee . . . . this is fiddly, especially with old nerve damaged fingers, but . . . kinda fun and certainly challenging. It would have been so so so much easier to have just laid a continuous deck, sand smooth and flat and then added very thin mitred strips say 3mm by 0.5 mm where all the openings occur and affix the superstructures onto these. Oh well :D Live 'n learn.
The pic might look odd as only the centre 7 rows are actually fixed and because the deck here is concave fore-aft and bowed left-right the unsanded and un-glued planks look a little odd and I worry the assorted plank shades might look wrong when finished and varnished (or whatever)
Note . . . the plank thickness's vary slightly so lots of sanding is required, and, basswood is very soft !
First attempt at nibbing can be seen . . . needs fine sanding and the plank being inserted needs tapering. The basswood is a little difficult to cut across the grain but easy along, and it sands easily. I'm now kinda committed on the main deck but can still change my mind on the fore deck.
We'll see eh :-)
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This is silly . . . what I need is a big sheet of wood that fits the deck and a really good ruler and pencil . . I wish !
I may be away a day or three trying to assemble all these bloddy bits 'cos every time I get 3 or 4 planks dry fitted they all spring out . . note the spacers piling up in the hold :D
Great fun but so frustrating . . and then the other side has to match . . . Aaaaaaaaagh !
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So quickly then before a passing moth disturbs the air and all the little bluggerin' planks ping out again. :D
I will now need to inspect everything and note where obvious bits need a tweak; (many look wrong in the photo but some are unsupported and they are all partially 'sprung'), then . .
. . . carefully d i s a s s e m b l e . . . pencil one edge of each plank and slowly and carefully put it back together, with glue, not forgetting the planking aft of where the wheelhouse will go.
Such Fun :-)
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One side glued and rough sanded . . . the little nibby things weren't too bad at all . . . just difficult to get each one the same width
As I mentioned . . next time I build this I'll plank over all openings to simplify things . . a lot :D
That's it for now as I must deal with other projects and jobs
See ya :-)
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You have done a good job with the 'joggling' of the planks :-))...keep the images coming thru Jon........Derek
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Will do Derek . . . and thank you for the encouragement
I'll try and post an update later today but in the meantime . . Have a good one :-)
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You must all be as bored as I am . . . hull planking, sanding, filling . . . deck planking, sanding, sanding, sanding :D
I'm now kinda pleased I laid the aft deck around the cabin because fitting all those short tapered stern bits was fiddly but probably a lot easier than tapering full length deck planks to fit neatly. Something to watch out for, a slightly thinner plank requires acres of deck to be sanded down to meet it whereas a slightly raised one proves no problem to level off !!
I may take a break from the deck and do a little more on the hull . . sheesh. There's still a few dodgy bits to fill, I am proposing a rubbing strake and the transom needs planking, tidying and I'll need to make them silly 'fashion pieces' to cover the corners. Ho hum.
I may not do anything over the weekend so it may be monday when I battle on. Hee Hee :P
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I just couldn't resist doing another hour on the model. The fore deck has a few variants but the planking is at least laid in line with the keel. (I do wonder why she was decked in two differing ways).
The first dozen planks or so are not joggled (thank you Derek) into the side planking . . .there will be thicker planks (like the raised waterways) under the bowsprit, double width and thicker planks under each side of the forward part of the anchor winch, and aft of this item the planking is joggled again. I'm becoming a planker . . . great fun :D . . but as one kind member has pointed out my planks are obviously obtained from very tall Nova Scotian trees as I've not used them at scale length . . I will experiment :-)) (photo items are not fully fixed as yet)
Oh and if you see a little fish on the drawing extracts this is a fishing option rather than in racing trim
Have a good weekend y'all
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Regarding shipbuilding timber, Nova Scotia is 'cursed' with Red Oak (which is completely useless if rot resistance is needed) and several varieties of softwood trees. The only decent thing we have is Atlantic Larch, a.k.a Tamarack and Hackmatack.
I don't know about 'the old days', but nowadays, spars for Bluenose II are sourced from British Columbia.
Just in case anybody was wondering. - Tom
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Brilliant Tom . . . :-) :-) :-)
I think when they built the Bluenose I'm basing my model on they found some very rare 100 foot (30m) dead straight lime trees and decided to make some of the planks near on 60 foot long as they were short of deck caulking . . . hoo hoo :D
I may have to Google Tamarack and Hackmatack
All the best to you over there.
Thanks
Jon
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As the weather turned 'orrible around 2pm I thought I'd drive myself mad and add another 40 planks . . . . nearly there %%
the mast holes are a fraction of a mm oversize so I can set them up accurately in the future.
When this is finished I'll let it collect lots of dust and that'll hopefully hide my rubbish woodcraft . . . . tee hee !
Cooker element has now blown (and tripped the power) so that's tomorrows work sorted.
See y'all soon :-)
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Not very much to report as I've started painting. I was going to spray but at £7 for what seems a half empty Tamiya can is far too extravagant, so I'm doing it with a small brush and Vallejo paint. The Tamiya ones seem to dry far too quickly. You'll also notice that the waterway planking may need the attention of a shipwright before the painters finish :D
I'm also dropping in the grating for the helmsman, just needs a frame and a sand.
Hopefully there will be something to report later in the week
Jon
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Well that's as far as I can go until I source a suitable paint for her bum. I'm looking for a spray on venetian red. Has anyone tried Halfords rattlers on timber ?
So thought I might as well start on the little bits and beginning with the laser cut parts.
Hope everyone's well.
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For paint I usually go to my local (not so local for me) hardware store and pick up a can of Rust-oleum, Valspar or Krylon spraypaint, it comes in large cans for about half the price of model spraypaints but might not be able to be found in the exact color you need so you might have to make a compromise and get something close.
Lextin.
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Hello Lextin . . . unfortunately all these are quite rare products here in the UK and if you can find them the choices are very limited indeed so it's off to a motor parts store to get some automobile paints . . . fortunately these are now usually acrylic !
I did a little fiddling today, etch priming brass and copper bits so no photo's again Guys.
See you all soon
Lovely sunny day here in the SW
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Hi smileyjon
I was in Homebase the other day and noticed that thy stock Rustoleum in spray tins also there was some crystal clear coat reading the tin ,it drys totally clear with no yellowing not tried it my self , I only use Humbrol for every thing so I do not get paint reaction . I always buy direct of Humbrol's web site , I try to convince my self it will be better than stuff bought from people with slow moveing stock .
David
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Yes Humbrol do a scarlet which is a deep red but I'd like to get a little closer. I've found the exact colour in the US but that's a little extravagant methinks. Back to Homebase and a few others the acrylic in Rustoleum range is almost non-existent so back to good old rattle cans . . . Mondeo Sunset Red perhaps . . . hee hee
Thanks David
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Hi Jon.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=hss&oq=venetian+red&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=venetian+red+acrylic+paint&gs_l=hp..4.0l5.0.0.0.720702...........0.TMC0TEEtu_Y (https://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=hss&oq=venetian+red&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enGB581GB581&q=venetian+red+acrylic+paint&gs_l=hp..4.0l5.0.0.0.720702...........0.TMC0TEEtu_Y)
Inoticed some rattle cans there on the googled page which may be of use and one here.
http://mccormicktools.co.uk/hycote-citroen-venetian-red-double-acrylic-spray-paint-150ml-xdct501.html?gclid=CP6t1PTdj8QCFceWtAodjg4A6Q (http://mccormicktools.co.uk/hycote-citroen-venetian-red-double-acrylic-spray-paint-150ml-xdct501.html?gclid=CP6t1PTdj8QCFceWtAodjg4A6Q)
frank
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Frank to the rescue . . . . thank you mate :-) :-) :-)
Decided not to struggle on with brass mast rings so switched to copper where possible. The strip I have is thinner so sits neater, it's 0.5mm wider so easier to drill for fixings and it's easier to form into rings. These will be CA'd onto the masts and spars. Pics will follow in due course . . . of course :D
Other than that, repaired the oven and preparing ply to repair fascia board end. Ho Hum :-)
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This is silly . . . the drawings call for over 40 parts to the main gaff boom alone. I'm simplifying it to around 25 parts and of course even my 1.2mm (int dia) eyelets look huge but I'm guessing that when the model is finished it will be okay. Only I will ever know because it will only ever be seen by friends family and the odd caller . . . oh and me !
Sunny days :-)
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Hi Jon.
RE: Only I will ever know because it will only ever be seen by friends family and the odd caller . . . oh and me ! Oh Yeh!! and of course not forgetting.. A`body on here.. O0 and the rest of the world when the photos hit social media... {-) {-) {-) {-) theres no hiding place jon
frank
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Hey you . . . it'll be okay 'cos it'll have a bag on its head ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Hey you . . . it'll be okay 'cos it'll have a bag on its head ;D ;D ;D ;D
who will have a bag on her head... {-) {-)
Frank
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Hee Hee Hee :D
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So why are spreaders and crosstrees made so fine and fiddly. The spreaders on many ships are just flimsy lengths of angle iron. Give me a big lump of something any time.
I need to add a couple of bits and drill a few more holes, then a clean up, prime and paint . . and then make the smaller one . . . {:-{
The basswood is too flimsy while the walnut is a bit grainy, drilling weakens both and I've used copper although I could have used paper. Building the whole thing out of brass strips might have worked as most of it is only just about 1.5mm thick.
Clouding over here in East Cornwall
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Blugger . . . Hi Coat paints are High Gloss . . . . . going to switch to red oxide for the boats bum :D
and although I tried to form some round things in timber that have belaying pins in and go around the mast . . . far too small and fragile so I've done them in plastic (cheating) as the laser cut ones had oversized holes and not enough material left to drill safely !
Very warm day (13C) so working outdoors on outstanding jobs.
:-)
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The basswood is too flimsy ...drilling weakens...and I've used copper although I could have used paper.
I have heard of modellers impregnating balsa wood with thin CA glue, to give it strength.
I don't know if this would also work for lime wood, but it is worth a go. You could also re-do this soaking after drilling to add strength down the drill holes.
Just a thought. Maybe worth a play on a couple of spare parts.
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I've just this moment tried that . . . and it does kinda work but makes it quite difficult to sand smooth prior to painting. I've now used it where it won't show and in drilled holes . . . I'll also try it with the thin stuff sometime. However good ol' PVA seems to help a bit and is smoother.
Great minds eh :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
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It's slowing down . . . although I have been out and about enjoying the good weather. Anyway, I've progressed a little on the fiddly stuff. The mast bands are 1.5mm copper strip, while the pin ring is from 1.5mm plastic modelling sheet. Work still needed on the spreaders but note the size of the dead eye . . . . just silly :D
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Well . . . . the bum is done
. . . thanks to Halfords red primer and a thin coat of brushed on acrylic matt to help seal everything.
And I must confess . . . getting the waterline about right took almost an hour !
Now the rudder, stern bits and deck stuff before beginning the rails.
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Jon,
Greeting.
Any updates on your Bluenose??; haven't seen you on line for a couple of weeks.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Well Sir . . . I had a couple of weeks off with other commitments and for the last week or so I've been doing , what I call, some of the fiddly stuff. None of it very exciting I'm afraid and now spring is upon us and the rain stops on occasions I have been trying to get the so called garden organised . . hee hee.
Also the oven element blew up, a central heating pipe joint failed, the boiler fan gave out, the front gate needed replacing, I've some fascia boards that need repairs and I've got a sore tummy . . . still the sun is out and it's getting warmer and I should be out walking !
So Fireman Rick . . you've not got rid of me just yet :D
That's just kitchen foil around the lower part of the main mast. The rudder hinges need 3 more 'bolts' prior to priming. One side rail is in the former while this one (alongside the template) is having its joints filled and made ready for priming, tons of drilling, painting . . and the two tiny 'fashion' pieces at the junction of the transom planking and side planking . . . WORKED. And they are now being sanded down flush prior to having a finish applied.
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Drilling little holes . . . 30 so far !
The 'slots' on the very outside edge were formed by drilling 2 tiny tiny holes about 1 mm apart and just 'jiggling' the drill bit up and down to open it up. These slots are for the chainplates. The larger holes are for belaying pins and the fine ones are for ring fittings. The largest hole if for the anchor crane. (Things are clearer if this photo is 'opened in a new window')
I've still got the other side to do but it's presently in my bending former. These rails will they be carefully glued onto the top of the stanchions and to the laser cut fore part seen earlier. Two more side/rail parts are then added on top of this and the two stern parts will then be connected . . . or something like that :D
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Well underway now with a little job that I've been putting off. The main rails.
Most of the little holes and slots were drilled out with a tiny bit in my little hand drill. The fore and stern parts are cleaned up laser cut parts (the stern part is still loose fitted). The right/foreward spliced joint has been filled and roughly cleaned up while the left joint is as laid.
I fitted the fore part first. I then fitted temporary little brass off-cuts into some of the chainplate slots on the rails. This would ensure that the chainplates when finally fitted would lay snug up against the outer planking. (one such brass off-cut is still attached and visible in the last image)
I didn't try to fit the rails in one go as I was concerned the glue would lose its strength. The right side rail was fixed in 3 goes, while the left side is still drying after its second fix. The final fix must also involve the unfitted stern part.
Some of the 1.5mm eyelets are best best fitted before fitting the rails. Some of the holding down rings have also been added to the stanchions.
The black squares bits just under the rail (there's 5 on each side) are 'metal' skids to stop the ships boats hanging up on the rail.
To see the detail it's best to open the images in 'a new window'
NEARLY THERE !!!
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I should be outside but yet again I'm fiddling . . .
Two more strips in the bending machine to become the aft top-rails (see drawing)
Stern bit glued and main rails filled and sanded
More fore rail bits added . . . later I will add onto this cleats and anchor pads.
Off to Bodmin Hospital for stomach investigations but should be back soon . . . . .See y'all :}
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Now the rails are in and painted I'm dry fitting a few bits . . . . not much else to report especially has the weather has been lovely and I've work to do outside.
I've inserted the masts into the wrong places . . . but nothing is glued yet as I still have to fit the rudder and finish off the upper part of the hull . . . including the dreaded chain plates {:-{
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Jon,
I enjoy your build.
I see you have decided not to paint the hull like the original Bluenose.
I know, seems a shame to paint the beautiful wood work vs. authentic.
Insights on your decision?
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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A sunny hello to you Fireman Rick
Decisions . . .
My eyesight is very very poor which makes my painting detail skill equally poor.
Paint enhances any planking errors.
There is point where black paint would meet white paint at the top of the side planking and under the lip of the main rail . . . a very scary junction to get a perfect meeting !
The instructions which are stunningly detailed suggested hardwood planking as an option for display purposes.
I also think it's good to see the workmanship of the beautiful planking.
and finally . . . when the model is finished not one person outside of this model boat forum will know any difference :}
How finally are you doing and what are you up to ?
Deck fittings this week for me . . . . slowing down on the build as summer approaches :-) :-) :-) :-)
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Rudder and chainplates next . . . can't put it off forever :}
Everything on the deck is loose fitted :-)
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and so to rudder and chainplates and bits . . . literally :}
I have just found a way to cheat on the chainplates . . . I'll post an image in a day or so, 'cos this one was rubbish (see photo . . and please note the minuscule size). I'm going to increase the deadeye size to 4.5mm (from 3.5) and I'm going to thin down the 2mm brass strip to about 1.2 and that should suffice :} :} :} we'll see eh !
I'm back to using Jewellery thread . . and I may use it for the steel rigging wires too as opposed to brass wire as It's quite fine and very malleable !
Both of the 'buffers' are now installed
Sunny here in the SW !
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Ridiculous . . . it'd be easier to make it out of matchsticks.
Ah well . . . lots and lots of little bits underway. The bits laying on the deck need a final sand and paint but most won't be fixed until nearer the end to enable access for rope work and blocks.
The chainplates are finally underway. The 2mm plates have 3 holes in each of the longer ones (make a jig to help), this will allow pins to be driven into the blocks on the inside of the hull. The rudder is on, the 6 bowsprit backstay fixings are in, some large sheet blocks are in and the jib and jib bits are in.
I need to finish installing the remaining 15 chain plates and dead eyes and source a fine white lining tape for the waterline
Then the belaying pins, the bow rigging and then the masts go in . . . loose !
Grat fun but I must improve my photography skills :} :} :} :}
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Hi Jon.
this is the sort of trim tape most of us go for. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/trimline.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/trimline.html).
either that or Halfords or local car spares shop.
frank
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Jon,
M.A.C.K. Products carries some nice Waterline Tapes;
http://www.mackproductsrc.com/Striping_tape.htm (http://www.mackproductsrc.com/Striping_tape.htm)
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Thank you both for the leads. I will go and check them out now :-)
The rigging thread . . miles of waxed stuff in various thickness's, came supplied on flat card 'spools' and when unravelled is very kinky so have strung some up around the room under tension to see if that helps
Sunny and cold this morning but Waitrose beckons later :}
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Pottering . . or should it be puttering.
Still building and fitting deadeyes and chainplates. So glad it's not a 4 mast barque or something 'cos they have over a hundred whilst I have just 20 !
Next dread is . . Stroppy Blocks . . . there has to be an easier way to strop 150 or more blocks down to 1/8 inch in length.
Adding 7mm belaying pins and other little deck bits
Surprisingly sunny here today :-)
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For rigging small stuff I found a fly tying kit available on the web to be a godsend. A few minutes on YouTube to find out what each bit does is well spent.
Jerry.
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Good thought . . . thank you Jerry. My main problems are eye and finger damage which is really frustrating !
hate getting old :}
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Jon.
You have a Private Message.
John.
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B . .LOCKS :}
There are around 7 different block sizes . . most of what you see are the large ones (quarter inch or thereabouts) but if you do nothing else have a look at the little dot on the deck in second pic . . . imagine stroppying that . . . and I've got loads of em !
As usual right click on image and open in new window to see full size pic.
Sunny and warm with beautiful blue skies :-)
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I got bored with the deadeyes so added another 10 belaying pins and have made a tentative start on the crosstrees / spreader thingy. Mainly loose fitted bits at present, hence wobbly looking items and big (5mm) nails hanging out . . . but the plan is to add as much rigging as possible . . do similar with the slightly more complicated fore mast and insert them into the boat when all the hull work is well and truly finished . . . say 2019 :}
The turnbuckles and bow rigging has just begun. These are 8mm but won't be tensioned and painted until masts are stepped.
Damp and warm(the weather that is) and I've got a real sore throat so going to curl up on the sofa :-)
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Jon,
You are doing great details. Quality workmanship.
For the eyes, on the bow rigging; are they swaged or whipped or just glued??
Thank You.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Just secured with ultra fine thread at the moment. Working at this level of detail is almost beyond me. The length of cable is just over 2 inches so a blob of thick white paint may have to suffice.
We'll try it and see eh !
:-)
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Other than a little 'galvanising' and attaching some of the rigging . . the mainmast, fore topmast, 2 gaffs and 3 booms are finished !
I still have the water lining to do and perhaps come up with a more aesthetic stand. Then back to boring chainplate work and construct the more complicated foremast crosstrees.
and it's almost decision time folks :-) :-) :-) :-) how to rig. There is no way I could sew the sails . . NONE. Not a hope in hell. But when this is done well a model somehow looks finished so I need to come up with a plan in the next week or so. Sheesh :D
The masts are loose fitted and therefore not yet at the correct rake.
I'm going to leave the decks as they are . . . holystoned !
Next 10-12 days off . . . I'll be back !
Blowy here in the SW :-)
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Fine work Jon. What a great ship to build - will be well worth it at the finish.
Bob. :-))
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Why thank you very much kind Sir. A lovely compliment Bob and much appreciated :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
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Jon,
Greetings.
On your mast hoops and metal work, what colour and brand of paint did You use for the galvanized metal look??
Thank You.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Don't laugh . . . I gave up on the brass stuff and went for lovely soft easy to drill copper (thin, narrow and easily sourced), then a pale grey spray primer and . . Tamiya X-11 SILVER applied with a small brush. Looks really good too !
See ya :-) :-) :-)
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And so to sails. These are the finished size templates . . . tomorrow off to the little village of Calstock by the Tamar to see if the little sewing shop there can turn my washed and ironed sailcloth into proper sails. Here's a hoping.
Ordered fine white waterline striping today and some additional cotton thread :-) :-) :-)
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£18 an hour for the sail stitching. I will have to mark up the sails on the cloth first with a fine pencil. There's 9 of them.
Exciting stuff eh :}
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Two sheets of sailcloth (provided in the kit) washed and ironed and marked up ready to take down to the little sewing shop in Calstock. The primary sail ropes will, hopefully, be seem into the hem . . They will then need a gentle wash, stretching and ironing. The scale is way to fine to include eyelets but I will have a go at the reefing points :D
Too nice to stay in modelling and besides . . I need to get more exercise !
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Not very much to show as lots of repeats
All chainplates with deadeyes are located and pinned in place.
Tying ratlines onto the topmast shrouds (details on top left of previous posting)
Waiting on sails
Waiting on Trimline waterline tape
:P :P :P
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Wow Smiley, I just came across this thread and must say that you have done a fantastic job..... I will be re reading this thread a fair few times during my Lena scratch build.
About the copper you used, what did you cut it with to get such detail without distortion as I too will try and copy your good work %) U2
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Thank you for your kind words U2 . . . it was 2mm wide stuff, around 500mm long and from . . http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/index.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/index.html)
They do a 3mm as well. Don't be worried if it comes crumpled up as it can be smoothed out by hand and and cut with cutters or scissors . . . and so easy to drill compared to brass.
I'll be following the Lena build
Cheers
Jon
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Hull is all but finished . . . just the naming and scrollwork stuff, oh and a half decent stand.
And I have replaced the lining tape on the side where it didn't adhere firmly (see last pic)
Then on to getting the masts stepped :} :} :}
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Again nothing to report . . I've had a week off and another few days away coming up. Still waiting on sails from the sail loft in Calstock and still putting the parts together for the more complex fore mast.
Will update everything next week hopefully
All the best guys :}
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Well then . . . not a lot has happened as I do like to wander off exploring in the sunshine and my eyes are been a bit off . . . however: The main mast is in the process of being stepped with temporary ropes fore and aft.
The main mast is raked back very very slightly (I used an old adjustable set square for this)
The foremast is still in the assembly shop but will be installed at right angles to the waterline
I did find the instructions invaluable with the shroud fitting sequence, it's the only way it worked.
The upper deadeyes are slightly triangular
The little brass bits were good and fiddly
The two topmast shrouds are yet to be finished
The next stage will be to ensure the mast is set in line with the keel . . . should be fun.
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
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Any advice please guys on the following:
Installing ratlines that end up hanging gently between the shrouds rather than sticking out in all directions ?
An easy way to form a knot (wall knot ?) on the end of the thread (lanyard) that tensions the shrouds between the deadeyes ?
Thank you :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
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Stretch all threads by hanging weights from them for a week. Ratlines have an eye at each end lashed to end shrouds with Spingarn. Tied to intermediate shrouds with clove hitch. Once completed, if twist is correct they should hang neatly. If not spay withe water press down with pencil to get required shape and dry with hair drier. Would think wall knot far too fiddley with thin line. Try figure of eight knot.
Jerry.
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G'day Jerry . . .
The lines supplied with the kit are coated and wound tightly onto flat plastic so they come off ridiculously crinkly. These have been steamed and hung (as you suggested) and are somewhat better after a month!
I have some thick line .05 and .06 (mm) which arrived from another supplier on a spool, it's also coated in something and this I'm using for the main standing rigging, and I've some .012 polyester on a spool which I would like to use for the foot-ropes. Trouble is, and ignoring your super-fine clove hitches and stuff, 'cos me poor ol' eyes and damaged fingers would never cope, especially at this scale . . . . when I use a simple knotting technique (shrouds average 5mm apart) and a touch of CA at each end, the foot ropes end up sticking out, or in, or up or any way they fancy :}
I've 'googled' wall knot . . . pppppppffft . . . so going to use a stop-knot.
What a fun hobby :} :} :} :} :}
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Anything stopping you putting the ratlines through the shrouds with a needle?
Jerry.
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mmmmmm . . . I'll try that Jerry :-)
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First off . . . Jerry, after a dozen tries I cannot pass a fine needle through the shrouds, so need to try a few other ideas.
Otherwise . . . the main heavy shrouds/backstays are all but in and the foremast is beginning to rise above deck level. The foremast top/crosstrees is quite complex, photo's will follow in due course.
The bean cans, books and steel rule are there to ensure the deck is level side to side . . a plumb line hanging from the curtain pole was also useful :D :D :D
See y'all :}
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Still working on the foremast . . . out of interest for anyone who may one day buy this kit . . .
I will need to add over 120 parts to the foremast alone even before it even gets shoved down the hole in the deck and then I can start on the shrouds and stuff.
Work in progress obviously but getting there . . . Round-nose pliers, fine brass rod < 0.02 ins, and 2mm copper strip !
Wonderfully ridiculous %%
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Hello,
Just remember how lucky you are to be working on a model that will reside in the comfort of your Home !!.
Imagine making parts for your boat and then watching the Wind rip them off.
The Wind was, and still is, my biggest enemy.
Making parts that look Scale, AND, are strong enough to withstand the Wind is my big problem.
No small bits of Brass wire for me - - high tensile Steel is the only thing that will do !.
Major rigging wire is rated at 100kg breaking strain, it does break eventually.
Stainless steel sheet cut into strips, for Mast bands, with steel nuts and bolts are the norm.
Hardwood rigging parts, well fitted, glued and screwed, with steel screws, still have to be checked regularly.
Enjoy your rigging build - - at least you will only have to do it once !!.
It all looks very good, not long now to completion !.
Very Best Regards,
John. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Ah . . . but mine'll get dusty :D
I do like your little fella though and may consider going that rout one day . . . fingers eyes and brain permitting . . . . but for now I'll plod on with the girly stuff !
Thank you for the kind comments JayDee
Jon
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
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This must all be getting a little slow and boring . . . I fix 20-30 tiny little bits of rigging over a few days . . step back and there's no real change :embarrassed:
Off to collect the sails later :-)
Still fighting 'smooth' looking ratlines :((
Open pic in new window and click to magnify to see more detail . . . . . part of winch is not yet fixed . . . oh and the 'standing rigging backstay' from the main mast is normally only fitted when racing but I'm adding it to help me tension everything. Tis a bogger :}
And . . . this came alongside as I headed back into Falmouth from St Mawes. Velsheda with her 180 foot mast ! Two other J's are also in port. More fenders anyone ;)
See ya all ok2
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I can't find a picture of Bluenose showing a maintopmast backstay. The one on your model would be impractible in actual use. The purchase at the deck suggests a running backstay and thus there should be a pair, one each side of the mainsail, the windward stay being set up on each tack and the leeward stay slacked off. Also usually back stays are rigged to the top of the mainmasthead and not to the maintopmast head. All the pics I can find don't appear to show standing or running back stays which puzzles me.
Jerry.
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I understand your thoughts but I have seen this before. I can only offer this oldie from 1921 and the fact that the plans (which are incredibly detailed) make references to this quite heavy duty tackle.
Ah well . . . It helps so I'm gonna stay with it :}
Cheers Jerry :-)
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As an afterthought Jerry . . . the plans call it a topmast flying backstay on the port side (same side as quarter lift for main boom which is also only used in racing trim!) using heaviest line (0.027") with upper and lower pendants (hook on lower one) and installed when racing. This stay is stowed immediately behind the mainmast lower shrouds.
The main boom topping lift (either port or stbd) is used when fishing but sometimes used in racing trim along with qtr lifts (which also have a single lazy jack line attached about half way up)
I think that if the quarter lifts are used as lazy jacks they have to be on both sides ? ?
I'm now guessing there has to be a flying backstay on the stbd side as well . . . . all a little weird but what do I know anyway. :-)
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How would you use the backstay when on starboard tack? It would have to be eased right off or it would interfere with the mainsail/boom. I query the term "flying" backstay when it appears to be a running as opposed to standing backstay. Also the term "quarter lift". I know it as a topping lift, used to support the boom when sail is furled and to lift the boom to stow it on crutch. Looking at the shroud arrangement which gives little fore and aft support to the mainmast there must be a backstay arrangement of some kind. On vessels where the mainsail/boom overhangs the stern the backstay is either on a bumpkin or a pair of running backstays are used, set up as tack requires. It's a pity I can't find a decent quality pic of the real ship. Has anybody else got any thoughts?
Jerry.
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Sorry, your last two paragraphs didn't show on my phone tip after I made last post. Doh!
Jerry.
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Finally the sails are back . . although the 3 jib ones will need to be improved upon, so I'll have to pop back to the sewing shop later in the week :((
The 'bolt' width is somewhat overscale to improve appearance (my opinion and only I will ever know which items have been simplified) and help reduce one of the sewing problems as when 'hemming' this cloth pinches very slightly where it meets the bolt threads.
I'm still holding back on some of the deck fittings and I kinda wish I'd held back on some of the standing rigging too as this is gonna be one fiddly job !
Where to begin . . . There are rows of reefing points and then these sails need to be lashed to the lower booms and upper gaffs and then they has to be roped onto the dozen or so wooden mast rings, which are already in place on the masts ! ! !
:} :} :} :} :} :} :} :}
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<:( AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHH ! <:(
It has begun . . . . and I've yet to stitch in the sails. As always, open in new window and click to zoom :-)
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Hello Jon.
The old saying - - Knit one, Purl one, Skip one, Drop one.
Keep at it, it will be worth it in the End !!!!!!.
John. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Love it John . . . . thank you for the tip :-)
Mainsail hanging by a thread . . . just to see !
:P
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Scary rigging mess . . .all temporarily held together with 16 pegs and clips :}
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Looking good Smiley, but don't let the OH see that you know how to use pegs or she'll have you hanging washing out. :} U2
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Thank you for the kind words Unsinkable . . . . I'm a dreadful pegger-upper with a full compliment so if you saw how I hung my washing with the remaining few I have you'd be a little taken aback . .
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
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Smiley, are you going to sail her or is she going to be static? I'm sure you said but 9 pages is a lot to check. U2
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Even though built of lime and walnut she weighs in in ounces so she'd just fall over . . . and I'm not even sure if the glue is waterproof so I'd end up the a new kit comprising 5000 little parts . . . hoo hoo !
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
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Out of interest . . . . .
If anyone else fancies having a go at this kit by Model Shipways . . . there's one up for grabs right now on ebay.com. £100 all in !!!!!
Praps I should buy it and try to do a better job . . . hoo hoo.
Still rigging . . . 60 blocks and just 3 sails . . . wonderfully fiddly :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
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You could always do the working version %%
With working blocks %) %)
Ned
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Ho Ho . . . I try but basically . . . . not a chance
:} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :}
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A brilliant job so far Jon.
It will take pride of place in your home
as an object of much admiration by all
who see her and you will have the satisfaction
of knowing you have done the job.
Ned
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Thank you Ned . . . let's hope so . .
. . . and only I will ever know the shortcomings.
Hee Hee :D
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It's been a long time Jon I hope everything is OK. Let us all know what's happening or a finished photo would be nice..... U2
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Slowly getting fitter after a few months of poor health
Poor quality photo . . . will post further photos soon.
Jon
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Poor quality photo but high quality boat O0
Actually the photos not so bad ok2 ..... Glad to see you back U2
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Kind words . . . thank you
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very neat ,thanks 4 showing ,be proud ..
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That indeed is a beauty.
Tom
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Thank you all . . . a little more done and will post pics in a week or so.
Cheers
Jon
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Hello Jon,
So, you did keep at it and was alright in the end.
Very pleased for you, just keep at it for a little while more.
You will then have an even bigger smile than now !!!!.
John, :-)) :-)) :-))