Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: tony23 on April 05, 2015, 08:26:34 pm
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I thought I would share this with you guys I have beeen using it in my 1metre and Marbleheads for a couple of years.
https://youtu.be/s4z8QMgTEA4
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thanks for that
very interesting u tube clip .
john
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I use a product called Darathene.
Seems to be the same sort of stuff.
Ned
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Where do you buy it, Ned?
DM
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CorrosionX here https://www.corrosion-x.co.uk/
Barry M
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Thanks, Barry. I'm assuming it's near enough the same stuff?
Dave M
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Got mine from a rep about ten years ago.
He showed me the demo of a 240V lamp in a standard bayonet
fitting sprayed and immersed in a bucket of water and then switched on.
If you remember a few weeks ago I was having trouble with a whirlwind
winch and as I could not get at the pot track, I gave the whole lot a spray.
That was the PCB, the servomotor and the pot and its run sweet as a nut
ever since.
Not sure now who markets it.
Ned
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Nothing new here, this was demonstrated back in the seventies by TV series Tomorrows World, hosted by Raymond Baxter, now I feel old. %% %%
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Anyone remember Antitracking varnish?
Ned
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I have just also been recommended T9 it's a Boeing product cost me £11 for a spray tin and have tried it by dunking some servos,receivers and batteries in water it all works perfect another great product. O0
http://boeshield.com/about/ (http://boeshield.com/about/)
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I've bought a couple of products I want to test as waterproofers, anyone suggest a good test of the waterproofithness?!
Malcolm?
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Give them to TugKenny to try on his tugs %%
Ned
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That was many years ago..... but still funny ...... as it wasn't my boat Ken! :kiss:
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I was proud of her ................................... :}
Funnily, the submarine I won for the 'feat' is now going onto my latest craft which has Moon pool hole right in the Middle to let water in.
ken
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Aahh, Biddy Baxter we used to call him. I used to be glued to that show Joe. :-))
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Martin there is only one waterprofer That actually work and that's THOMPSONS water seal.....best stuff on the Marker...ideal for Tents Caravan Awnings Gazeebos.....Waterproofs and coats as well...Get it in a 5ltr tin far cheaper than anything else on the Market
Dave
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Sorry, waterproofing electronics. {:-{
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It depends what kind of electronic bits you want to waterproof. A simple card with no moving parts and just connecting leads responds well to being dunked in varnish and left to drain and dry. There used to be stuff called "Tropicalizing Laquer" which was a varnish that was applied by brush, but when you read between the lines, it was varnish. Being brushed on, you had more control over where it went, so you could avoid painting things like pots and terminals. Stavros' THOMPSONS might be great if it is non-conductive when it has dried.
Then there is putting stuff in balloons and making sure that the neck is downhill from the rest when mounted.
Testing is a bit of a fraught area - a lot of years ago a couple of field managers who had an office in my building were having a meaningful discussion regarding the merits of waterproofing methods for external wire joins. One who was a developer of such things in his previous post used his method, the other, relying on experience, used his, both on their respective phone lines. To test, the "official" version was rerouted so that the join was outdoors in the Blackpool weather. The experienced one was left indoors but immersed in a bucket of freshly gathered sea water. After about a fortnight, the official one n the weather died. After about three weeks the sea water became over-ripe and by popular demand the test was terminated. The design of the "official" IDC connector was changed to incorporate silicon grease.
So the only real test of waterproofing is to dunk it in something conductive - if it still works, the waterproofing works. This is a test chancing destruction of the prototype if you got it wrong and you are taking the chance that if the prototype method worked, it will probably work as well on the rest (QC method). Of course, you can always try the base method on a representative test piece that can be treated then have pos hooked up to it and neg to a separate plate, and see it it produces bubbles when they are immersed in the electrolyte.
After you've sorted that out, its just a question of stopping the other ends of the wires being exposed to air - damp picked up that way and being wicked up the strands is probably the top cause of black wire corrosion.
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Ah.....Thanks Malcolm .... that ....er....was a lot more detail than I was expecting, very interesting though! :-))
I was thinking of getting a bit of Vero board, wiring up every other strip, comb style and then sloshing on the test waterproofing and stick it on a meter.
.... would that work?
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Ah.....Thanks Malcolm .... that ....er....was a lot more detail than I was expecting, very interesting though! :-))
I was thinking of getting a bit of Vero board, wiring up every other strip, comb style and then sloshing on the test waterproofing and stick it on a meter.
.... would that work?
That would check that the proofing stuff was conductive or not, but if you can get your hands on a higher voltage meter or use a 4S battery and a multimeter on current, turning the wick up on the sensitivity until you either can't get a reading (good) or get one. To check that the proofing gives a continuous coating, you need to use a separate electrode that definitely gets wet and repeat with the other half of the comb otherwise you are relying on there being two holes in the insulation.
And slosh it generously from behind. Water can get through Vero holes and slink up on the copper easily. We found out about liquid and gravity under the influence of the same pair of field managers when it was suggested that it was a good idea to proof the back of PCBs using resin. It not only proofed the back, but was very effective at despoiling the front despite the plasticine coffers used to stop it running over the edge. It didn't do the screw terminals any favours either, but thats another story.