Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: ballastanksian on April 09, 2015, 11:16:44 pm
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I started this build last year and have updated and moved it lock stock and barrel to the right room on the forum.
HMS Ready was an M class destroyer built in 1916 as part of a large class of destroyers whose building programme lasted from 1913 right through to the end of 1916 incorporating some improvements along the way that were to fruit fully in the later R and V&W classes.
So, we start with an EBAY bid in March 2014 of an anonymous plastic ship hull. I had wanted to build something to sail while I built my HMS Rupert, which I knew would take a few years to complete, and the Glynn Guest article on HMS Mandate inspired me to have a go at a WW1 destroyer. This hull turned up for sale by chance at the same time and I won it for a very good price.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/674/tJiPiL.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/iqtJiPiLj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/uLLLAz.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipuLLLAzj)
Sadly, it had not been packed that well, and so upon arrival, it sported a large crack down one side. I was initially dissapointed, but the price and the fact that it was too long to scale reasonably for a WW1 destroyer meant that I decided to keep it.
So, having scaled the length of an average M class, I marked the amount of hull I hade to remove. This incorporated the damaged section and meant that I did not have to make any major repairs, just rejoin the hull along two straight edges.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/61Bmkd.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hj61Bmkdj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/743/ZX4SDn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/knZX4SDnj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/FjA9up.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/paFjA9upj)
I used strips of 2mm styrene as doublers to reinforce the join with lots of plastic weld all held in place with clamps.
With the hull now at the right length, I started work on the bow. The hull would need to be deepened to incorporate a foredeck and higher quarter deck and so the bow needed to be finer at the point where the existing hull met the new extension. I had found an image in a Janes warships of the world 1919 purporting to show Ready with a Ram bow! I was hooked and wanted to build this ship, so the design had to incorporate a ram bow as well.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/U76WdR.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0U76WdRj)
The image above shows how round the bow is at deck level.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/9ovWNI.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p89ovWNIj)
The bow is raked quite sharpley compared with the ship pictured in the book, especially with the ram, so I marked the hull and removed the rounded end.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/wBpVHl.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exwBpVHlj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/mevTut.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p1mevTutj)
I removed a platic reinforcing plate from the hull, made a new piece from plastic and proceeded to pull the halves of the bow together and glue them. I used plenty of tape to keep them together as clamps would not grip the hull at such an angle. Therefore, I had lots of tape gum to wipe off when the bow halves had dried.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/743/ZNtSot.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/knZNtSotj)
With the bows glued together, I added the peice that would form the ram bow once I had filled and sanded either side to fair it into the exisiting hull. It incorporated the height of the new work to be added and also the peice of round bow that I removed. This was slit in half and stuck ither side of the new bow peice.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/tv8Amt.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/iptv8Amtj)
Next up came the new sections of hull and a dilemma if I recall correctly {:-{
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Well certainly nothing has been lost with the cracked hull & you are more on track with scale for the M Class :-))....however just a few questions......
a. what did you make the ram bow plate from?
b. is it or will it be compatible with the hull material for strength & rigidity/reinforcement?
Keep us posted with the build images %).......Derek
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Hi Derek, The ram bow is made from 2mm styrene and glues readily to the grey styrene plastic. I was concerned that the hull might be of another polymer, but thankfully not and I am free of large clouds of superglue fumes <:( . I have dropped the hull at least once since the cut and shut job was done, and she remains in one piece. The work you will see in the coming days adds to the strength as well.
Sorry for those who have seen it in the warships research room, but I felt it ought to be moved here, so I will crack on and add fresh pictures.
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Hi Ian, just found it, I've heard you mention your build before but wasn't sure where it was, nice cut and shut, did you used to work in a dodgy garage {-) {-) a bit of fairing in on that new bow piece and it will look the biz, be watching this one. :-))
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Its funny you should say that......... It was a challenge cutting a large slit twice by hand using a small razor saw but it came out very tidily.
The fairing will come later Joe, but first lots of frames.
With the Stem post fitted, I made and added a bulkhead to define the length of the forecastle. This had a large hole in it so I could add ballast in the bows if needed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/674/o9LEbi.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/iqo9LEbij)
The hull is a bit out of true due to the casting and so the bulkhead is a bit squiffy. I dealt with this later when I also furred the frames.
The frames were made from strips of 2mm styrene glued to the sides of the hull and reinforced with square bar.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/NmIOKQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exNmIOKQj)
The deck frames were added from the same material.(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/NmIOKQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exNmIOKQj)
The frames for the quarter deck were much smaller being made from 4x2m styrene strips. I reckon the quarterdeck will suffer less than the bows, so need less reinforcement.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/yVKdBf.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idyVKdBfj)
Many WW1 destroyers had a reversed slope stern varying in shape, so as the 'Blue Devil' destroyer hull I had discovered the identity of the donor kit by this time thanks to this forum:O) has a rounded stern, I had to modify it. I began by cutting the end piece off.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/909/xwlMhF.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9xwlMhFj)
And adding a rounded plate at the bottom and a curved piece at the top joined by sloped uprights.(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/540/ct4LAa.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0ct4LAaj)
More soon.
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The sides were raised with strips of 1.5mm styrene. This is the bow so clad.(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/674/c9yGv8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/iqc9yGv8j)
Here the quarterdeck and stern have been clad, again in sheet styrene and strips with their edges bevelled to ease the job of cladding the curve.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/911/Tl8D1k.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pbTl8D1kj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/746/Buixjv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/kqBuixjvj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/tA2fkw.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eytA2fkwj)
A bulkhead was added to push the hull out a bit and straighten the deck edge.(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/GbUasj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exGbUasjj)
While working on the hull, I began to think about the detailing including weaponary. The common armament of M class destroyers is three 4inch guns, a 2pdr Pom pom and four torpedo tubes in two twin mounts. I found some good images of the 4inch pertinent to this vessel as there are so many marks of 4inch gun, probably more than any other.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/jD9yry.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyjD9yryj)
The masters are made from styrene strip, sheet and rod of various types. Evergreen make splendid square and strip, while Plastruct USA make excellent styrene rod that is perfectly round and without the elongated gas bubbles sometimes found in Evergreen rod.
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I am really cooking on gas now! Here are the latest piccies of progress.
A while back I found out that HMS Ready was unlikely to have had a ram bow, so this was cut off and the hull was filled and faired in with Isopon filler.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/mFkUZo.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idmFkUZoj)
I have said many times, I learn lots of tips and ideas to use on my projects from MBM, and this one for sealing the hull where the stuffing tubes enter the hull is a case in point. Pictures speak loudest.(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/540/AQJ99q.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0AQJ99qj)
To gauge where the holes in the hull should be, I first made a case to sit the motors. Imade this from styrene sheet using a compass cutter to make the holes that the motors sit in. All the centers were the same for the motors and shafts, so all I had to do was make sure the holes for the various parts were in the right place in each peice of plastic.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/540/JQIKoX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0JQIKoXj)
The central shaft was cut slighty shorter than the others so that it's propellor sat behind the outer two by one prop depth. The whole mounting was sat onto sloped pieces of plastic and glue.
You can see the rudder blade in the above picture. It was cut out of a piece of copper plate.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/Gn51k4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyGn51k4j)
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Looking very tidy Ian, especially the motor installation, are you using water proof prop tubes, or are all the inboard ends above the water line, as I don't see any greases. ;)
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I plan to pack them with silicone grease and now you mention it, they could do with grease cups!
I have some thinner brass tube that I plan to make the tube my rudder post will go through, so that will be a job I can work on next week.
I was told by a chap from Portsmouth MBC that Silicone grease has less resistance than traditional grease.
I did a bit on the bridge last week.(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/769yVP.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ip769yVPj)
The chart house (Is that what the bottom part is called?) is hollow and will have the windows blanked off with black plastic and eventually gloss varnish to add some pazzazz.
The bridge has wings and the small bit at the back where the search light mounting lives. The dodgers are still to be fully cut out and detailed. I look forward to adding the bast absorbant pads.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/zYHIQ9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipzYHIQ9j)
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Good progress there Ian, when it comes to simulating glass windows I use green paint with a little silver mixed in, just a thought. ;)
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Thankyou for that tip Joe. I will remember that when the time comes to slap the paint about.
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Yes Ian.......the propeller tubes interface with the hull [for the epoxy casting block formwork] is very tidy indeed :-)).......super strength & clean [just rough sand the OD of the brass tubes first] ......we see so many where the epoxy has been troweled on >>:-( with paddle pop sticks
It is also of the standard of the other structural reinforcement modifications you have made..........keep the images coming.... Derek
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Taa Derek, I will sort out the 'oilers' first and while I am at it, I will rough the tubes up.
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Just a quick update on the armament with some images of the 4inch guns painted up and awaiting their ship.
Primed in Humbrol 87 Enamel as a primer/base, and then followed by a top coat of a similar grey mixed from Vellejo model colours with details picked out again in said acrylics topped off with a coat of Burnt Umber/Lamp Black tinted Humbrol 49 Matt varnish. The tint acts as a wash suspended in the varnish.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/905/eHeKWk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p5eHeKWkj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/ZoRWjr.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipZoRWjrj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/I2chUC.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipI2chUCj)
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I forgot this image. Its of the first batch of anti shrapnel bags for the bridge. I have sculpted them from Milliput. I have already stuck fourteen on and will sculpt some more in the near future. More piccies to follow.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/633/11R9NX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hl11R9NXj)
TTFN, Ian:O)
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Looking good Ian
I especially like your guns- they look fantastic- she'll look brilliant when she's finished :-))
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Yes those guns do look good I especially like the rivets they look the biz. :-))
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How do. Just a little reportette on progress.
I spent the last week or so sculpting the splinter protection for the bridge. As you saw before, they were sculpted flat on a metal plate and then prised off, fettled and stuck onto the structure. I then came upon a problem whereby some of the dodgers need to bend around the angles and corners, so I found that if I was careful, I can pop them in place with a bit of superglue and then bend them to my will with sculpting tools.
Here are the first two.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/901/IMvwqa.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p1IMvwqaj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/5UnStj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/id5UnStjj)
More soon of the completed dodger installation. The next images should show the work better.
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Next time you do that sort of thing, use the metal plate but cover it with plastic, like a piece of a pocket wallet. They will peel off much more easily.
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Thnks for sharing your tip Steve. I do not usually have any issues with putty sticking to the plate, probably as I am still worrying through the rust! I could see the plastic layer beign very useful if very very thin pieces were being sculpted.
Again, Ta!
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The tiller flat went in this week.
I put two plastic rings around the hole that the rudder tube will enter the hull. the outer one was filled with epoxy and then once the plywood parts had been cut and prepared, and the rudder tube cut, cleaned and abraided, I glued the tube in place with epoxy and while still soft, I glued the platform together with its spacers and fitted it in place in the stern. The tube is a little out of true, but not hugely.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/ziohEg.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipziohEgj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/910/F8oQWE.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/paF8oQWEj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/PvDCSE.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipPvDCSEj)
The space under the plaform is available to stick some ballast if needed. Next job to do is to cut the rudder shaft to length and make a tiller for the post. The standard servo arms have holes that are too large for the size of brass bar I am using, so I will look at something else to make it from.
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I tend to use aircraft control surface linkage rod, its 2mm reasonably sturdy stuff, usually threaded M2 at one end, doesn't flex much at over 150mm any thing less and it doesn't flex at all, servo holes just need opening a tad, a "xxxxx" to bend to a tight radius but not a great disadvantage.
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I keep meaning to use those ball and socket end connectors but so far I have not had enough room to fit them in anything I have built! No worries, I am not fitting out steam plant, so the linkages need not be as hi tech as all that. I will look out some when I next visit Yeovil. Thanks for the tip Warspite:O)
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Today I mainly spent machining metal to make the control for the top of the rudder post.
I will take photos soon but I drew this diagram to what I did made.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/ggmhEZ.png) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyggmhEZp)
I turned a brass boss on my little lathe with a bore of 3.2mm (1/8th inch) and a shoulder of 5mm onto which will be soldered a copper arm with holes to accept actuator rods from the servo. I used copper because I had some. It should be man enough to take anything the pond can throw at it.
I will drill and tap a hole in the wider setion of the boss to take a grub screw and this will be thread locked in place to prevent loss of control in the middle of the pond {:-{ I have made the holes on the tiller arm nearer together than those to be used on the servo arm to get a better throw but if this proves to be useless/ unhelpful then I will move the rods in on the servo arm to match.
The orientation of the blade is wrong but it is to show what the shaft is for just in case.
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Great work, I could never do anything like that.
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Having a lathe does help it is true. It phases me much less than electrics {:-{
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After drawing the pretty pictureds of my rudder components and spending six weeks away doing wargaming and holiday related activities, I got bits together and took some photos of the latest progress.
With the rudder made and soldered to the shaft, it was time to make the tiller.
to do this I required these parts and tools. One tool is missing and I will come to that later.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/901/94aRfE.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p194aRfEj)
This image shows the main components including a second view of the boss. This is made of brass and the tiller arm of copper; cos I had it:O)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/fXZQbE.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyfXZQbEj)
First I clamped the boss in the tool post on my little lathe* It just about sat right and I was satisfied that there was enough metal to drill and tap through. Indeed, its position was further down and this should give me plenty of room to wiggle an allen key around once in the boat.
I then drilled a pilot hole with a diddy center drill.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/pS63Mo.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idpS63Moj)
Once done the center drill was exchanged for a 1.6mm drill to drill the main shaft.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/gcYJCp.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idgcYJCpj)
Once drilled, the boss was re-positioned so I could get at it with an M2 tap. This was hald in a three jaw chuck that usually fits in the tail stock. I did not have a tap spanner small enough so I had to 'Fink outside the box Guv'
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/gjUnp1.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idgjUnp1j)
It was at this point of minor jubilation that I went and got my allen key sets expecting to find a small enough key to start fitting the grub screw, but alas, I have not got one so I will be on t'internet for one. I think it is a 1mm size.
Finally for this session, here is a piccy of my old EW Lathe. It was bought second hand from a chap who in the end turned out to be a fine chap called Brian Parks. He was a first class model engineer and could turn his hand to anything. He put me onto lots of work and also showed me some good tips. I think the lathe is well over fifty years old even taking into account the probability that it is not a first production, thougn I saw an advert for one in the early fifties, so it might be sixty!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/909/O9yDwN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9O9yDwNj)
*I appreciate that not everyone has access to a lathe. All these processes can be done without one, using a bench vice and hand drills.
More soon!
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The allen key is on order, and while this travels here by post, I got on with soldering the tiller parts together.
It took seconds to do and is quite a tidy job even if I say so myself!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/909/Ls5NHS.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9Ls5NHSj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/555Xr3.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/id555Xr3j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/909/6GaH7h.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p96GaH7hj)
The top image is of the parts just dry fit together before being soldered.
More soon:O)
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I conducted my first floating tests today in the bath.
With the same amount of ballast representing the gixmology and a little extra, HMS Ready floats slightly bow heavy. At this point I saw a little seepage from the stuffing boxes surrounding the tubes, so I took her out and will fill the exterior gaps with some Miliiput, add some more resin inside and then do another floating test.
I did not take any photos as she looks the same as she has for a while except she had a wet bum and some lead inside:O)
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Sounds like it's getting to an exciting point now.
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Float test 1.1.
Having filled the places I thought might let water in, I popped her in the bath again this evening and it still leaks a little.
I had a closer look around the sides of the stuffing boxes and the resin might be a little thin in places so I will attack it with more milliput tomorrow and see where that takes me. (Not to the bottom of the bath I hope :O)
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Float test 1.2
Almost there. I found a small amount of seepage around the starboard stuffing tube and cannot work out where this is leaking through as I have used a fair amount of putty to smooth in between the hull and the opening outside the hull. I will pop some more indise and see if this seals it.
If so, we are on for electrification and deck design.
Images soon.
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Well float test 1.3 saw the leaks stopped, so now I can start dabbling in the dark arts safe in the knowledge that susbsequant float tests will not cause damage to 'leccy bits'.
Thar she floats!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/RPDiQ9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idRPDiQ9j)
That boat has had more baths than I have ok2
The leak issue was fixed with judicious use of Milliput around the epoxy and under the tubes bot inside and out.
I took a close up of the area where the tubes pass through the hull showing the putty, but I am not sure it works.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/rKHjlI.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idrKHjlIj)
Lessons learnt: Make the boxes holding the resin bigger to encompass more of the tubes to give a better seal possibly just making one big box.
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After a slight delay while oing float the tests and looking at electrical parts for her, I got back to some construction.
Thanks to Don (Paxton) in the R&D room who sent me some scans, I have found essential information concerning the shape and layout of the important superstructure details.
Firstly, the bridge is wrong. There were several versions of the basic shape that got bigger as time went on. Also there were Flotilla leader variants that I assume had bigger bridges.
I am rebuilding the bridge. I have modified the wheel house to suit and will harvest the dodgers from the old one ans sculpt new ones where needed
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/913/p3JbKd.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pdp3JbKdj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/911/1ZOGQr.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pb1ZOGQrj)
Behind the first funnel there is a pair of large boxes that seem to be inlets for the boiler room.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/910/l6Pb7S.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pal6Pb7Sj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/VAPI3D.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyVAPI3Dj)
That is followed by the bandstand for the midships 4inch gun.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/QiuC8v.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipQiuC8vj)
On the first batch built the bandstands were mounted onto the raised plinth covering the boiler and engine rooms, but subsequent classes had them raised to reduce wash and spray effecting the gunnery. I am tempted to make it an early version, but do fancy putting a Pom pom on, so I will have to raise it onto a box with stanchions around it.
This is followed by a smaller set of boxes, again deemed to be air intakes. Both sets will have hatches in the closed position.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/540/FCojOG.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0FCojOGj)
I ordered some acrylic tube to turn into funnels. On these go the caps. I turned these on my lathe from Pro/Mod lab.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/912/LoGfPy.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pcLoGfPyj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/903/Q44fI4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p3Q44fI4j)
To celebrate the successful turning of what are quite thin pieces, I made myself a plate of Toad in the hole and mash with lots of Gravy:O)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/909/OrkxLQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9OrkxLQj)
Yay ok2
More to come soon....... Any comments welcome.
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Nice to see some superstructure being done, shows real progress now. Toad in the hole, nice :}
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Having made the funnel caps, I started on the funnels themselves.
These are made from acrylic tube with a 3mm wall thickness allowing me to cut a shoulder in to slide the cap on securely.
I worked out the rake of the funnels, and using a quadrant, cut the three lengths needed to make the body of the funnel.
Then I unlearnt one of the basics in machining on the lathe by not supporting the end of the work being machined resulting in this monstrosity >>:-(
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/631/aJ3UU8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hjaJ3UU8j)
So, re-learning this, I cut another piece of tube luckily having not reset the quadrant in the mean time :-)) and made a piece that would hold the end of the tube but allow the shoulder to be machined at the same time.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/905/avkPAS.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p5avkPASj)
Here is a tube and the support mounted.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/633/k7XN7G.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hlk7XN7Gj)
Here they are ready for the next phase. The inside of the upper ends were chamferred to reduce their thickness.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/901/0LIuUg.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p10LIuUgj)
The next job is to add a little band around each funnel where the stays would be attached. Some seemed not to have this, or had a less pronounced arrangement. The funnels were marked up and a strip of .25/.5mm plastic strip was glued around.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/631/MkeXSv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hjMkeXSvj)
The ink has hidden these somewhat, so apologies:O/
There is a gap between the top of the outer casing and the cap on these funnels, and so to help locate and support the caps when fitted, I added four little .5x1mm blocks to each funnel on top of the shoulder.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/911/wL7T1F.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pbwL7T1Fj)
Lastly, the caps were held in place and superglue was dabbed around the inside of the funnel.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/905/hQfM49.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p5hQfM49j)
Almost complete, these just need the pipes etc to finish them off. I will do this once the hull is ready to receive them
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/905/5Cp3p8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p55Cp3p8j)
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You sure are making good use of that lathe, nice work Ian, now can I have a photo of the Toad in the hole and lashings of gravy %% %% {-) {-) yummy :-))
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Great job looking good.
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When Imageshack will deign to show me which photo is which, I will pop a up a dish:O)
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Ahem. ..... While not averse to said toad in the hole, that gravy looks awful thin in consistency ! Thick gravy, deep brown in colour, made with bistro powder, cabbage water and thickened with oxo cubes.
Ps sorry for high jacking the thread for gravy, but somethings are important.
Pmsl
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Here we go Joe :-))
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/909/OrkxLQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9OrkxLQj)
It wasn't as thick as I would have liked, but it did mix well with the mash, so I was not dissapointed:O)
Some things Klunk are always important and Gravy is one of them. The gravy was a Bisto mix using vegetable water for the goodness.
I only use Oxo as reinforcement if and when I have bought cheap gravy granules.
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well thanks Ian, now I won't sleep tonight thinking of that yummy Yorkshire pud. %% {-) {-) {-) {-)
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It was better than the first one which was too stodgy:O( I like em crispy.
Apart from the Victory, what have you got on the bench or planned for this winter Joe?
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Hi Ian, I've got a 1:48 Hunt class hull waiting to be started building it as HMS Brocklesby, just thinking about getting all the ply for decks and superstructure and the running gear etc. Who knows Santa may bring some of it. %) %)
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Stew in a Yorkshire
Beef Stew with dumplings
Savoury spiced mince
Roast brisket with all the trimmings
And lots of other heart warming stodgy foods.
Again sorry!
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Nice :O)
I have to add Bacon rolypoly pudding :O)
I recall you saying you were going to do Brocklesby, but that was a few months back when the winter was a long way hence!
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Steak & Kidlly pie at the Warwick show! O0
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Mmm :-))
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That's correct Ian, I thought I'd get the hull on order from Fleetscale as I had heard it can sometimes take a few months, but it was delivered in 6 weeks, I got the plans the same time, so I've been getting a few things done in the mean time (holidays etc.) {-) I have nothing else for this build yet I'm going to try and make what fittings I can so this build should be quite long. %%
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Yay, plenty of winter time reading and looking.
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Lovely job Ian, would have commented earlier but the WiFi is terrible in Cyprus at the moment!
Nice funnel work, I've seen funnels all over the place but yours looks perfect. :-))
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It helps having a diddy lathe to get things square and tidy. Next up are the torpedo launchers. 'M's had two twins on turntables so I have started to cut plastic.
Good to hear from you in Cyprus Nick. Hows it going in the Med?
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Can't complain too much Ian, other than the heat, long hours and terrible food ideas in the mess we are having a relatively nice time, got to go to the beach on my day off on Saturday- just got to wait another 15 days for my next one!
Keep up the excellent work :-))
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Latest Ready news.
First off, some remedial work. Way back when I was lacking in drawn references, I was using photos to gauge proportions etc. And while usually capable of squeezing dimentions out of a photograph, I managed to muck the length of the forecastle up by about 40mm.
So, after getting betttere references thanks to Derek, I added the extra material to get the forecastle looking right. I also included the minimal admiralty curves where the forecastle plating joins that of the quarterdeck.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/912/6wXxi8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pc6wXxi8j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/901/ZqYIc9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p1ZqYIc9j)
I have started the Torpedo launchers. M class had two twin 21inch units on turntables.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/901/YAxEjf.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p1YAxEjfj)
These launcher tubes have a round top and rear but a square belly section with a tapering front end.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/633/sRsUv5.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hlsRsUv5j)
I made these from styrene tube with a section cut off and replaced with two pieces of right angle strip to make the box section.
The angles were then cut and sanded to shape and discs of sheet styrene added to the rear end to create the flange that the loading door shuts on.
To finish this section, I have started planning the electrical layout. I have less room than I had hoped, but with some judicial removal of heat sinks (He says hopefully:O) everything should fit neatly in the space provided. I might have been better going for smaller gizmology, but hey what is life if not a challenge %%
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/903/EIE2uY.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p3EIE2uYj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/901/jg9tu9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p1jg9tu9j)
TTFN
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Just a quick update now I am back working on the destroyer for a bit.
The new bridge has been festooned with kapok blast screens. I have decided that battle experience showed that these should run around the sides and rear as well as the front. I will cut back sections and add the boxes and navigation lights in due course.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/eHEA2o.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pleHEA2oj)
The Pelorus and Binnacles have been fitted on the bridge along with the chart table. Early classes of destroyer had the cool looking perambulator hoods and window, but I am not sure what M class destroyers had to protect their charts whilst in use. Any guesses chaps??
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/yEq6Mb.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poyEq6Mbj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/mnOmiB.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmmnOmiBj)
lastly, I have wired up the motors ready to be connected to the mixer unit. I cannibalised the distribution board and speed controller to fit in my Tug 'Biccu', so these need replacing in HMS Ready. The lead clours follow the standard red and black polarity gibbins.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/bmuuhh.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plbmuuhhj)
Next up will be the voice pipes, semophore mast and searchlight.
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Wow that looks amazing!
She's coming on nicely, I would have thought the chart table would have something very similar to the older designs, why mess with something that works! Until the bridges were enclosed I'd have thought it would have remained the same.
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Micro update.
Having had several weeks of fun with my Tug 'Biccu', I am going to recover the power board, RX and speed controller and return them to this Destroyer so I can get the running gear tested and then continue with the build in time for the Mayhem show.
Images will be posted soon as I have something mildly exciting to show:O)
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Images will be posted soon as I have something mildly exciting to show:O)
Oooh, you're such a tease! now I'll have to check in more frequently to find out what you've been up to... ;D
Regards,
Ray.
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O0 Cannot wait to see what magic you pull out of the hat.
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Currently it is making sense of electronic gizmos that do not want to work fully. To be fair though,it may be the shaft linkages slowing the port motor down whilst the other two whiz around fine though noisily, so I cannot jump toblamesomething I have nbever had running before in a hull that has never run before mounting a drive train that is new.
I am seriously considering making her a single screw model and saving the Mixer for a larger model as the Power board, Mixer,RX and speed controller take up a sizable chunk of upper deck space and with the shafts being cheapo, they do vibrate a bit despite 'straightening' them out.
I am learning a lot about what not to do with this model!
Once this is sorted, I can get the superstructure and plating done for Mayhem. I must book my hotel room.....
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The Ready would make a nice addition to Ron Deans ship line.Not enough of the old Victorian hulls out there,to get the greatest age of ships to be seen, and built over on this side of the pond.Some days looking at the builds on mayhem,want to break knuckles <*<
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No shes definitly just preWW1 1913-1916 in fact. HMS Rupert on the other hand is very Victorian!!!!
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Rupert is beautifull,and a very interesting looking ship. :}
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She is indeed a very interesting ship, and I believe a good starter project for those who want a capital ship of handy size, with a bit of rigging and one turret to try motorising should they want.
Onto the Ready, I have for the moment decided to make her run on a single shaft with slightly larger prop. The electrics work nicely, though the shaft still isn't straight and does impart some noise. Once I have added a lifting tag to the electroincs flat, I can then fit the deckwales and then start the exciting bit.
I shall add some photos next week.
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Hi Ballast, I have to say I like reading your comments on all the various threads, and It's nice to see your build blog. It may be a little slower than some but it's looking good. Keep it coming please. U2
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That is very kind U2, Work gets in the way as well as other non ship projects so things come in fits and bursts.
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How do fellow model boatists, I have done a smattering of work to the Destroyer.
As I have cut out most f the original cross ties to fit gizmos inside, I decided that combining the deckwales and cross ties would be lighter and stronger. I have made this from one piece of 1.5mm styrene. I cut holes in it to provide access. Priority access must be to fit/remove the Control board as it sits atop the battery box and side ballast.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/Ncy5Kv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plNcy5Kvj)
The control board can just be seen with its natty pull sewn by my own hands, and despite looking like it was sewn blindfolded, it seems to do the job:O) In this area the deckwales is still not quite strong enough, so I will add some tabs to the underside of the deck to stop the hull sides looking wavey.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/Rgih5f.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plRgih5fj)
Access holes were made for the motor section and also to get to the rudder and servo just in case.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/LpQZOH.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poLpQZOHj)
This is the Quarter deck. I intend to have the centre superstructure with Funnels etc removable to access the volt meter and power switch. I am not sure wether I can use a very thin rubber seal to seal the deck-deckwale join? It would have to be .5mm thick at most.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/8mXwoJ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po8mXwoJj)
Starting on the plating. The model will almost certainly serve at Wicksteed with simple black dot portholes, but I have mad and am casting up porthole rigol units and will install these afterwards.
I can't help thik that this project has become a controlled Dog's Dinner as I realise that I have to alter things a little to make stuff work. I had hoped the hull would plate easily, but having looked harder at photos, these Destroyers had sharp bows from keel to deck. The rounded bow had to be sharpened, so a form was fitted and the plating will be bevelled to meet it snugly with the intervening 'inner' plates faired in with more filler.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/hipSdU.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pohipSdUj)
And onto the Shippes boats. These ships carried a 27 foot Whaler, a 14 foot dingy and another slightly larger boat.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/9rwCee.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn9rwCeej)
These will be carved from balsa. The 14 footer needs a little more fettling to get the curves right before detailing.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/kDXJY0.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plkDXJY0j)
And detailed with Evergreen strip packaging card. This is great and I reccomend it fully to all modellers for many uses.
I am going to cover them with Tarpaulins for the show.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/SS666t.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poSS666tj)
A great use for the Evergreen cardboard is for templates.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/fy5g1y.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plfy5g1yj)
I have taken to writing the vital dimensions on the template as well for future ease of making more.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/MPRHUd.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plMPRHUdj)
More soon now the show draweth near %%
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Coming along nicely :-)) . Are you going to do the tarpaulins like Brian 60? They looked the part! I looked around in Joes lecture today and wondered if you had gone to carry on building or fetch another cake {-) I hope your back for the next lesson 'how to make a fantastic ship even better'.
Oh and I like 'gizmology' it's in there with 'electrickery' and 'tanglier' :} . U2
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That's a nice bit of whittling on the ships boats, I never thought of making them that way, I usually buy them from Caldercraft, I've filed that away for future use. :-))
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Just looking in and liking what I see.
I also did my ships boats in Balsa (for the Ariadne) and found it very easy to sand to shape - though I did take it slowly so as not too remove too much and thereby have to start again.
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Joe. I wanted to get some boats for the model but could not find any 1:96th scale ones. I am sure that Dean's do the whole shebang given their range of RN warships from Gunboats to Battleships, I just need a list of the sizes of boat available to the Navy.
The Modelling Warships book shows a small selection which gave me the dimensions for the 27 footer and a 14 footer, while the other boat looks to be 16 or 18 feet long and dinghy shaped.
I went for balsa as it is light and will not affect the centre of gravity.
I will re read Brian's log and digest the details. Ready is fast becoming a collection of sub assemblies and a hull, which I think is a good thing {:-{
I snuck off while Joe was shuffling his slides to whittle the boats. I am back now with some battenburg.
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I put Caldercraft I meant to put Quaycraft boats they do 1:96 and are very good, whalers, gigs, motor boats etc. not cheap though but to be honest if you want your boats with covers on your way makes sense. :-))
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Thanks for that Joe. I see some of what I am after. At this stage the images I found of the Quaycraft boats will serve as visual modelling aids, but I think Achilles will get some nice resin boats.
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Do not know how I have missed this Ian still have spent a pleasant hour catching up so will tag along if I may. Btw have you tried lime for your whittling of small boats it is nicer to paint than balsa, if you want to try some let me know I have quiet a lot of smallish off cuts from my other hobby.
Colin
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Hi Colin, I never say no to a bit of useful material:O) I went for Balsa because I had it to hand and am on a sort of Wickseed deadline so decided just to sail as close to the wind as possible and get her done. In the future with decent materials or good kits My ships will benefit from better boats. Cruisers like Battleships have quite a few.
Are you going to the Mayhem show? If so I could collect the bits of lime andsee you right for a coffee :-))
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When is Wicksteed this year? If it falls within my holidays I might try and get there!
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Hi U2, it is on the weekend of 28th and 29th of May.
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Ah well looks like I'll have to have a 'la Wicksteed' with my 2 boats and maybe Andrew44 because my holidays are not until the end of July :(( , your boats coming on well by the way. U2
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Ta mate. You could come over next year maybe?
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I'll have a word with swmbo in the morning and see if we can drag the caravan up or I'll shoot up for the day Ian.
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Just a quick boat building update.
This the third boat being carved. It is a 20-22 foot motor boat with vertical stem and quite stout looking. The first image is of the main hull block and the upper strip that will give the wales and bow section.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/zHOUsM.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnzHOUsMj)
This is of the hull block from the top showing the section that needs to be removed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/FlcLJu.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poFlcLJuj)
And finally the section surgically removed with only a scalpel. No carving was required to remove the piece of scrap balsa :-)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/BA4cNm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmBA4cNmj)
Its a technique I remembered from when I was building my Tudor warships and needed to remove the waist without lots of carving.
More soon.
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I think it's very satisfying to make something rather than buying it, very neatly done Ian. ok2
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Hi Ian , good idea modifying the fletcher hull i have one i thought using for a vw but thought bit was as far as i got regards pete
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It is a reasonable base for conversion bearing in mind that it is not symetrical vertically with one side of the bow area being a bit more oblique than the other. This may be the internal shape of the plastic hull being different each side. The hull is a one piece casting, so for the time quite a large piece to make an accurate mould for before plastic car bumpers became common place.
The plastic readily glues with Plastic weld but the stem and stern need modifying to make an accurate model. Mine has ben through the ringer a few times as I had no concrete references until Dennis kindly sent me some plans but it seems to have survived them!
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A little deviation into the world of superstructure.
Like many destroyers of this era, the superstructure is largely confined to the bit that the head of the uptakes live in and the Bridge.
The front two funnels are mounted in a little island with pinted ends also holding the fore boiler room vents , while the aft funnel has a little isle backing onto the aft vent. I nbetween the middle and aft funnels is the bandstand for the midships 4inch gun. I am going for a middle height position for this,
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/8HVQkV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn8HVQkVj)
The funnels all now have their eyelets for the stays. These are made from bended wire and glued into the funnel bodies. I could have brought them home for the insides to be painted black but I forgotted >:-o
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/gFZbRQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pngFZbRQj)
More very soon.
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{:-{ :(( >:-o >>:-( <*< <*< <:( So you know your day has just been holed by a torpedo and you are sinking when you are now pretty certain that your scratch built superstructure bits are not the same scale as the hull, but indeed larger.
I made the shallow ridge of superstructure and started measuring where the funnel plinths, bandstand and ventilator boxes go and then ran out of space before I could fit the first torpedo launcher and search light position on.
Grrh. I will pop up to Wickie with my Biccu tug instead.
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Major change of plan. I am going to build a new hull in 1:72nd to accomodate the larger tophamper. I thought it the lesser of two blooming annoying evils <*<
Tony Green's Steam Models has a set of plans for about £9.00 and I will enlarge these. A ply and plank hull should not be hard to make having read fellow modellers logs and tutorials and it will be a good test of skills for when I build the Achilles sometime in the next century (at this rate).
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Hi Ian love what you have done with lindberg hull , i was mulling over a v and w or a hunt class with my llindberg hull , regards Pete
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Do make sure the hull is the right length for the model you want to build. There were numerous slight dimentional differences between the ships depending on who built them. The Lindburgh hull is a good start and as yours is not damaged you can do one of the slightly longer ones!
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How did you make the main armament , lovely detail, i struggle with this stuff, i blame my eyesight, regards Pete
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I scratchbuilt a master in styrene using rods and sheet plastic and then moulded and cast the three required in white metal.
The 'kits' have around ten parts. I would remake parts to include the canvass cover that goes behind the shield and the operating lamp that sits on top of the shield.
Of all the 4inch guns used by the RN, there is a plan of this weapon from a series published years back (I cannot remember their name at present) but I used photos and some written info to build them.
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Thanks for the info, regards Pete
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I think I have solved the problem of too much deck fittings and not enough hull length :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
I measured the torpedo tubes and shortened these by 5mm giving me 10mm spare for the two sets, and reduced the bandstand by 9mm in width.
This gives me a total of 19mm to play with. If I re position the aft gun further back and the funnel group further forward, I get more space allowing for all the main fittings.
Once I have some funds I will re order my deck fittings list from J.R. Haynes that I submitted last year. It would be lovely to get M19 and HMS Ready ready for Wicksteed this year.
Pictures soon.
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Thought better of building a fresh hull eh {-), don't blame you, other wise you may of considered having two ships with different scales etc. this modelling lark is so much fun >>:-(
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Glad you've worked out a compromise as you've done some fantastic work with both the hull and superstructure- love to see her at Wicksteed this year :-))
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I fried my (Rude word) mixer this morning whie trying to get it ready for a lake test before commiting to work on the deck >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( <:( <:( <:(
I think I wired it into separate power sources on the same distribution board and I don't think mixers like that >:-o
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/7Cpc6Q.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm7Cpc6Qj)
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Oh well, I Y joined all the motors together and I will give her a pond test soon.
I worked on the torpedo launchers. The cupolas are turned from Modlab with the gear train made from a strip of plank effect styrene card.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/dvqTgK.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pndvqTgKj)
The tubes were detailed and fitted to the cupolas before the training mechanisms were added using styrene rod, strip and some wire for the handles.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/qtv2T6.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmqtv2T6j)
I have the Launch bottles and breech detail to add before I can claim these done.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/SeXlWX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poSeXlWXj)
The launcher with the shallow cupola sits on the mini superstructure (possibly called the Fidley, though wether this means for the whole length I do not know) forward of the searchlight bandstand.
The bridge received more attention with storage (?) boxes being added to the sides and rear. These were made from Modlab and detailed with styrene strip.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/OirH3k.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnOirH3kj)
The bridge searchlight was also fitted to its pintle. Has anyone gta an idea of what the mechanism looked like the controlled the light? It had a system of rods and linkages leading from the light down to the bridge deck where it was controlled. I have plans etc but they are way too small for more than just hints.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/K6Vbsl.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnK6Vbslj)
The searchlight is from J.R. haynes.
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Very nice detailing work there :-))
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Lateral research took me to this vessel showing the mechanism on the searchlight for remote control. I assume the model is simplified and so there would be a switch for the lamp at the bottom as well as a retainer for the control lever.
It is on a P class sloop (Nice looking vessel :-)) ) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P-class_sloop
And: http://blog.twmuseums.org.uk/page/56/
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Nice work Ian
I've copied your method of splinter matting for my finishing touches on my Dreadnought :-))
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I used an Arrow head sculpting tool both to impress the crosses and pull the edges back to get a more worn look.
I look forward to see your mats Nick.
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Yes Ian, those Kapoc filled splinter bags look very realistic indeed :-)) .......I am assuming that you will leave them as that drab olive canvas tone O0
Derek
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Hi Ian,
There may not be a switch since it was possibly an arc lamp, so there would have been positive and negative feeds. This may be of help. http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/single-topic/24-inch-searchlight-model-24-g-20-spec-17s21/
Tony
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Blooming heck, all that machinery to provide illumination! It is more complex than an artillery piece %%
Thanks for that information Tony. It does give me an idea of what gubbins to put on the model.
Regards the splinter mats, I will probably painthem in a thin coat of grey so the original colour shows through just to add depth and show they belong to the navy!
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Hi Ian, it should have been a simpler version but the principle was the same.
If you get to see Bob K's model of Descartes, there were 4 remotely controlled searchlights on her, one being behind doors on the bow. Each had a control tower, either on deck or even on the top of the citadel, with a small director table (looking like a binnacle) and a lever control.
I can let you have the wiring diagram if you want %%
Have fun!
Tony
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Thanks for the heads up Tony. I will study the pictures of Descartes in a moment. Regarding wiring, I don't think I will go quite that deep into the detail as she is not a 100% accurate model of the class, so I will make her pretty and pleasing before moving on to other models.
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This beautiful model was built by TonyH, and is now sailed regularly by myself. Some of you will have seen Descartes at Wicksteed Park.
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n626/bobkiralfy/Descartes/searchlights_zpsyxo2spqi.jpg) (http://s1143.photobucket.com/user/bobkiralfy/media/Descartes/searchlights_zpsyxo2spqi.jpg.html)
Hopefully the above photo will reasonably show one of the searchlights and it's controlling bandstand.
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I can see a vertical thing behind the searhlight and assume it is a conduit or similar.
Thanks for your help chaps:O) I fitted all the portholes in the hull this week using my new porthole-rigol castings.
Pictures to follow. M19 gets glazed next week.....
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Good evening,
I recently did some more work on the destroyer including a new weapon.
Early M class had two 2pounder Pompoms mounted beside the wheel house; one on each side. So I whittled one out of styrene and moulded it. I now have enough for the destroyer, and eventually a Big gun monitor, which had one of these and a HA 3 pounder on the back of the foredeck.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/oeLUUW.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmoeLUUWj)
Later the bandstand for the stern searchlight was converted to mount a single Pompom replacing the two astride the wheelhouse. This was done as part of a greater refit, though as with all classes of warship, ships differed in detail.
I will pop images up of the guns when built.
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I am getting there slowly!
I checked the electrics over and she is ready for her test sail tomorrow. I then decided to start the quarter deck.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/4H3CEw.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po4H3CEwj)
I made one from Styrene, but it was a bit flimsy given that it would have mots of details on it and be required to lift off occasionally, so worried that it might shed bits from time to time, I decided to make one from 3.2mm ply. I already had the blank cut out that was to become the deckwale, but decided that this should be styrene so that I could weld it firmly to the hull making a box girder.
The camber was created with the Japanese file and sandpaper. It was then painted with several layers of thinned dope and a neat layer.
The superstructure was made from 1mm styrene with internal supports to strengthen it and then pieces of 6mm ply were epoxied in for two reasons.
1. To provide places where glue could be applied to help fix the superstructure to the deck.
2. To provide places to drill through and mount things like the mast and also a combination Torpedo tube mount/deck fastner.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/LpntXS.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmLpntXSj)
A small section of the deck was cut off and glued to the hull along with a section of the superstructure that was filled with ply and glued to the deck.
Once cured, the deck was put in place and the superstructure glued onto it matching with the small section forward.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/p9r2O6.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pop9r2O6j)
You can see the section of deck now clad in .25m styrene representing the deck covering, which while not haphazard, was certainly added in large patches which will be represented on the deck.
More soon :-))
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Coming along very nicely sir :-)) Getting close to when you can install some of those well detailed sub assemblies.
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I concur, lovely deck work :-))
Such love and care has gone into getting that curvature.
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Evening all.
I have clad the quarter deck with .25mm styrene to represent the plating.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/AlKrc4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmAlKrc4j)
The plating has a partial logical and haphazard look to mit, so I added a patch here and there to make it look more interesting.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/hfaXka.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnhfaXkaj)
Then I started what is to me the oddest structure on the Destroyers of this period. I would describe it as a pill box or ottoman with screw down catches for a hinged lid and a tubular frame on the front. In an image it shows an erectable jack mounted on this frame supporting an oil pipe that seems to descend into the pillbox. Ironically, the destroyer is making smoke at this time, so am not sure if they are testing systems, have a temporary fuel tank on board, or are in the midst of taking on oil when an enemy unit was sighted.
Mine is made from 1mm and .5mm styrene sheet, with beading and catches made from half round strip and T profile plastruct.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/DFvaCL.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDFvaCLj)
The frame was made from a length of iron wire and a piece of C channel brass solderd on.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/GxHkCX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnGxHkCXj)
I have now mastered the solder paste (I think) as I had to cut the soldered assembly from the length of brass without the joint failing and it didn't :D
Here it is on the superstructure.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/vBFoAK.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/povBFoAKj)
Next up, I will build a couple of cradles for the carly floats, a couple of cupboards (possibly food safes?) and a Maxim and pintle to sit on the air intakes.
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How do?
I made the cradles that hold dinghies above the air intakes today from styrene. There seem to be various designs of holding system suggesting that these were designed and made individually by each ship's crew. Some look quite flimsy. The Dinghies are from J R Haynes.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/8ZBeY4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm8ZBeY4j)
Mine sits lower than others and so means I do not need to make much else for this area on the Destroyer.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/SLhCWu.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmSLhCWuj)
Being daft, I realised I had made the slots in the cross trees that hold the long parts were on the wrong side, so I had to cut the ends off and place them at the upper edge. This does add the little raised bit I was going to add at the same time.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/UN9ZYE.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnUN9ZYEj)
More soon.
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The cradles look very well produced Ian. This ship is going to look really good.
I must admit I do prefer working in styrene, especially the detail stuff.
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Very smart styrene work Ian. :-))
I've just bought a load of styrene sheet, rod, I-beams, etc for my build in preparation for my detail work.
Keep up the good work.
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Again, engage your imagination as the camera has died {:-{
I am working on the masts, and like M19, they will be made from brass rod and tube and fancy bits from Copper sheet (Because I have it and it is nice to cut with a piercing saw).
The Foremast comprises a lower section from tube, and a 'Gallant' (I suppose) stepped with two copper collars. The lower collar incorporates the eyes for mast stays, while the upper one has two eyes to control the lower signal yard.
A question:
With her being a little sluggish using 3x 20mm props powered by a 7.2 volt NIMH, would she be faster with 3x 25mm props or would I be better upping the volts?
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Hi Ian, I hope you have a new camera on your Christmas list along with some Hobnobs. O0
I would think larger props would give a little more speed but ultimately more revolutions would better, so more voltage if your ESC will take it.
Joe
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Thanks for the tip. I will obtain a new box brownie of some sort soon!
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I hope a camera of some sort will materialise around Christmas, but to keep you in the picture %) I soldered the main mast parts together.
I found that solder paste will fix bigger things if you use more! I had to solder the mast cap into the top of the mast and so slavered it in paste, stuck it in the hole and waved a gas torch at it with successful results.
My initial worry about wasting it was offset by fellow Mayhemers observing that it goes off, so I thought it better to slightly over use than throw half pots away.
Off to Sussex for Christmas now where I will pick up lots of brass rod.
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Evenin all'.
Here are pictures of the mast under construction. I had already soldered the main parts together before the camera came alive so hopefully these pictures will show the shape of the parts.
The mast had a pair of legs supporting the mast so I made a plate with holes for these and the lower mast and soldered this on.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/Nb0RkD.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmNb0RkDj)
Above this was soldered a plate with five holes. One for the mast and four eyes for stays to be tied onto.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/GvxmXN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmGvxmXNj)
Between this and the upper support plate, the lower yard was fitted using a strap made from .3mm scrap etch cut and drilled to accomodate the mast and the yard.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/J0gXvg.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poJ0gXvgj)
The upper support plate was designed to mount the tackle controlling the lower yard and thus, it had two eyes as well as the hole for the mast.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/7k16QV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po7k16QVj)
You can see the nail head I used for the top of the mast. There should be enough soler paste to fix it in place as it didn't wiggle after it had cooled.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/5daCG0.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm5daCG0j)
Finally, the whole mast as it stands to date. There more bits to add such as rings for the signalling gear and aerials.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/WADEcN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnWADEcNj)
More soon....
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Have you accounted for this top weight, when I did Soveriegn, I did not realise that even though the brass masts weighed very little, that this weight has a massive effect on the above water weight.
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Lovely soldering work you've displayed here Ian. I'm looking forward to soldering my masts too. Got some good ideas from your layout of how the yardarms and spars are fitted on smaller vessels. :-))
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Hi Warspite, I am sort of winging it and will make up any top weight with a bit of ballast. The mast will not have much more added to it so should not weigh too much. I can imagine that the top hamper of a capital ship weighs in proportion to the ship's size especially as the navy adds more and more to them. Those Pagoda masts the IJN adopted weigned loads didn't they?
Hi Nick, My idea was to save complexity by combining jobs within components, so while in the right place on the masts, and doing what they are meant to do, the parts might not be accurate. I know you will do more research than me and so your result should be a good mix of accuracy and utility.
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Hi Ian, neat work on the mast I do like the solder paste but as you say it dose get thicker once opened, I had to throw a bit away that got too hard to use after about ten months, I'm guessing it must be due to being open to the air because I opened another pot I bought the same time as the one I binned and it was good as new, but even with a bit of waste it's great stuff.
Joe
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Ian.........do you have access to various size copper pre twisted cored wires?.....[after the aluminium shielding and plastic sheathing is removed] .......that mast could be secured back down with stranded copper wire
Say 10 wires each of 0.010" roll a little more spiral tension......soft solder one end, apply a little more spiral tension & solder the opposite end
I have used the remains of [a borrowed] guided missile control systems wiring loom %) for such work :-X
Derek
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Funnily enough Derek, back in August, I found a horse hair snagged in the gate to the farm where my unit is (they are very horsey in my part of Somerset) and it looked just right for making rigging! I asked one of the women who parks their horse in and around the site if I could have some strands of tail hair when she next MOTs the thing and a few weeks later I got a bag full of folicles. So, I am going to try these first.
I was worried about copper filament after Marcus Rooks mentioned using it on his all metal Dreadnought (Model Boats January 2018) where he found it stretched unpleasantly. If it could be pre stressed so it kept enough tension to stay straight then I would consider it. The ability to solder it and bits to it might anneal the copper thus softening it again.
Thanks for the idea Derek :-))
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These 3 were about 50g each or there's about when completed, but had an enormous effect on stability (though I did have three and a bowsprit)
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It is something I need to watch, and hopefully some balast will keep 'Ready' stable. I am not comfortable with plastic masts etc because I know that I will probably snag a brass mast and have to bend it back to shape one day, whereas, a second hand tug I own I merely brushed the styrene mast and it snapped clean off just where it met the superstructure requiring repair.
Knowing how easy it is to destroy the masts on smaller scale static dislay models (Dennis has the right idea putting his in display cases!) I don't relish the thought of re-building a plastic one every couple of years.
I look forward to building larger models with more displacement and less top hamper proportionally :-)
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Small update on the masts.
I added the 'eyes' that hold the signal lines and standing rigging for the halyards.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/fkK8XF.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnfkK8XFj)
They are made from slices of brass tube flattened until the oval is as wide as the yard leaving enough room either side to form eyes. It isn't quite how they did it in real life but I think it is stronger than soldering lots of rings and smaller tubes together, and will do nicely for these initial build projects.
They are soldered on in two forms: Double eye, with an eye at the top for the standing rigging or cables to raise and lower the yards. And Single eye for the signal lines etc.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/LrBMa1.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnLrBMa1j)
I used solder paste which just about did the job. There ne or two sightly wonky ones that I may attack with the gas torch to straighten.
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That will do nicely Ian, and as you say stronger than a 'u' shape bit of brass that would also be difficult to hold two close together and solder, well thought out mate, good stuff that paste init.
Joe. :-))
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Re the paste, I think I was trying to do too much with it in some circumstances and so have gone back to normal solder until I am better at it which is coming. I got my small soldering iron to work now and it does well
I completed the fittings to the mast so they now have buttons on top and eyes to take lines to hold the yards up.
Also, I made a start on the last deck structure needed, and that is the bandstand for the aft search light.
Photos to come soon.
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Yes I know what you mean Ian, the paste is great stuff but dose have it's limitations, it took me a while to know what it's best for and of course it dose have a limited shelf life which is a consideration given the price it is. keep up the good work mate. :-))
Joe
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Lovely to see an update, you are doing a fantastic job
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Can’t wait to see your pictures too! :-))
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For my rigging on sovereign, I actually drilled through the brass tube, seems to be evident only on the mizzen mast, I was not to bothered about to much rigging as it may have restricted the sails, Victory on the other hand will be rigged as the instructions, hopefully the sails will work (if I get back on it).
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A quick test.
Well, that worked! First attempt just disappeared {:-{
Good, then let's continue.
The first image shows the three main components of the Search light bandstand. There is a cylindrical pillar (It might have been cruciform in real life, but I am not sure) the circular platform and the searchlight made from a Haynes search light, a piece of chemiwood and brass rod for the controls.
Then we go forward in time and see the stanchions fitted. I will wrap some .4mm wire around a former so that it will fit into the holes easier.
Finally for now, the three main components can be seen test fitted together. The platform has a flat filed into the edge which will take an access ladder. I could not see evidence in photos of where the ladder/ladders fit, but other deck structures on period vessels, and the pans I have of an M class suggest one or two fitted to the sides.
More soon!
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I forgot to take photos of the masts but will do so tomorrow.
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Looking really good. I will be following this with great interest, especially now you have photos to see your progress :-))
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Just like London busses, a flurry of posts arrive about the Destroyer!
As promised, the masts are about ready for painting and fitting in the near future. I forgot to buy 2mm aluminium tube for the steam pipes to outfit the funnels, so that puts me back a week or two :((
I added buttons and eyes to the top so I can rig the yards and add aerial cables etc. Observing Warspite's point about rigging, Ready will only get basic stays. I like the look of yards outboard of the mast, and I am always worried about weakening the mast against the day when Mr Clumsy arms rubs across a mast. I think I could straighten a mast in situ, whereas a break might mean the mast has to be removed %%
Anyhow, picture time!
Eyes were bent from brass wire in an '8' shape, placed on followed by the Buttons (Correct term? Or do I mean caps??) These were made from slices of 1.5mm I.D brass tube soldered on. I find a little fluxite helps stick the bloomin things in place until the solder has joined,
otherwise they can slide about annoyingly.
This was done on both Fore and Main masts.
Then this morning, I glued the stanchions in place on the bandstand and then rolled some .4mm brass rod around a former smaller in diameter than the ring of stanchions to try and counteract some of the spring. The former I used was actually too small and so some twist crept in which required some manual bending with fingers. It worked well enough.
The rings were then threaded through the eyes as you would on any ship making sure the ring was outboard of the stanchions as I did to prevent the rod from tugging at the stanchions as it went past. Filing the ends before threading would reduce this risk, but being careful as you go reduces risk further.
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Very neat work on the bandstand Ian I bet the rails were fiddly to thread though. :-))
Joe
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Hi Joe, they took a little work to get in the holes, but the wires was .01mm thinner than the holes, so it wasn't too bad.
Rolling the wire did mean that it had to conform to the circular shape albeit slightly larger, and it meant the railings were rounded rather than randomly curved. Mind you I assume they may have been cable, and so from above would look like a polygon, or if the rails were tube/bar, then they might have got damaged during action, and so not altogether perfect.
Anyhow, I have been working away and have got all the fittings painted, all the decks painted and black washed (Ooh, she's a filthy one :o ) and I have started to drill holes for the stanchions. I will put some photos up this week, but she is charging ahead of my photography, so apologies if the pictures are less informative.
I lied, I have the large davits to prime and paint %)
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An update on progress. Photos in order of narrative.
A few weeks back, I turned the platform for the midships 4inch gun. It was turned from a piece of acrylic with a styrene spacer to raise it to the right height. I made and cast some 4 inch shells and these will be mounted around the inside.
Test fitting of 4 inch gun.
The funnels finally got their details including steam pipes, whistles and ladders. The flairs were also adjusted and fitted to the superstructures.
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Nice detail work going on. I love the funnels :-))
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She coming along very nicely Ian.
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You are doing an amazing job transforming this old hull. If I am not mistaken the hull was the old Lindberg "Melvin" Fletcher class destroyer. I built my first many,, many years ago. It was my first rc boat model. The kit came with a single drive motor spinning two shafts. I put in two motors and found it to be "a tad over scale speed". It did not plane, but she took water over the stern. One word of caution I would add is to watch your top hamper weight. She will be tender. I also think your 3 screws will be more than sufficient.Great job!
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She is as fast as my granny at the moment (or was the last time I ran her) but this may be because she is bow heavy and maybe the battery wasn't fully charged. I burnt my mixer out last year due to wiring it in wrongly, so maybe the speed controller got slightly frazzled as well?
You are right Akira, the hull was a Lindburgh product bought for a few pounds off Ebay with nothing of the superstructure or innards. Had I not cut out a section because of the cracks caused by poor packing, the hull would have been spot on for length.
A few more images.
I soldered pins to the ladders to help mount them onto the deck and then bent them to shape.
The decks have been painted ready for varnish and the fittings and superstructure elements.
Nearly there......
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Good bit of progress Ian, the funnels look very authentic, I've been away for a week staying with in laws at Corsley on the edge of the Longleat Estate, so I've just caught up, had a stroll though Warminster Park last Sunday, great sailing venue, a couple of Tugs and a yacht or two on the water and a big strange yellow thing in the sky %%
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Was the big yellow thing one of those hot air balloons Joe? Yes Warminster have lovely water to sail on and am glad you saw someone sailing on it. If you are ever in the Crewkerne/Yeovil area then do say, I'll sport you a coffee and maybe a bun :}
I did Ready's final ballast test this evening prior to putting the last few bits on and she's too heavy up top :(( I think I will complete her as a static display model and then concentrate on the Monitor, Rupert and Novgorod. She's looking pretty though!
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Hi Ian that's a shame about being top heavy, have you any scope on the free board to raise the water line a bit and add a dummy keel, that's what I did on Coventry in the form of an extra sonar fashioned out of lead, mind you Brocklesby is turning into a shelf queen, must get around to wetting her bottom again. :-))
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No, she is too deep as it is, she just put on more weight than I was expecting, and to give her a good margin from capsizing, I would need to add more. Not to worry as I had a daft but interesting thought about making a floating dry dock to display her and any other little tubbies I build on the water but safe from foundering!
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Ho well at least you've had the fun of building her, that for me is the best part I find sailing them once they are completed a tad boring after 30 miniuts. {:-{
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Those details get addictive after a while.
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Hi Ian
Just found my copy of A Shipyard at War which has some fantastic pictures of the M-class under construction. Here is just two images from the book:
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gKtjCd/qp79j_Nw_QT_Gomk2eifb_XIg.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gKtjCd) (https://thumb.ibb.co/gqLmQy/fullsizeoutput_6e6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gqLmQy)
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Thankyou Nick! It looks like Milne was fitted out as a mine layer.
I drilled holes for stanchions and fitted the masts on Tuesday evening and she is beginning to look, er Ready :-)