Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Capt Podge on June 04, 2015, 12:55:51 am
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I'll start this log off with a question - what's wrong with this workbench ?
(http://s2.postimg.org/78hya675l/Dalog001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
empty_bench.jpg
Answer: There's no model boat on it ! <:(
...and so to the rebuild.
A number of years ago I was given this model of an ELKE fishing boat. The guy had attempted to build it as a static model and became disheartened when he spilled some sort of liquid substance on it, so decided to give it away.
(http://s14.postimg.org/906ty9pip/Dalog002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
damage.jpg
So, the bits and pieces were stripped off it and most of the green substance was removed the hard way i.e. fingers and a variety of sandpapers, wet 'n dry etc..
I had tried a number of strippers but nothing would shift it. Tried using white spirit, allowing it to soak for 10 mins, that's when I discovered 8 little holes in the prow/keel of the hull - the liquid had gone all over the workbench >>:-( and it still hadn't shifted the stuff.
(http://s10.postimg.org/5ivwi29rd/Dalog003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
pinholes.jpg
Finally got the thick of it removed from the inside of the hull then moved onto the outside.
(http://s1.postimg.org/kndosc6xb/Dalog004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
outer_hull.jpg
Here's one half of the hull rubbed down:-
(http://s16.postimg.org/z2xrb13np/Dalog006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
rubbing_down.jpg
Next came the ruined deck.
I used this as a template to make a new plywood deck.
(http://s18.postimg.org/v1wvy91gp/Dalog007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
new_deck.jpg
This was then checked for fit then removed and the markings for the various fittings were carefully measured then transposed onto the new deck, highlighted with cross-hatching, in pencil, then put aside.
The original proptube hole was far too small for my planned fitting out so this was reamed out to accept the replacement proptube.
The pinholes were sealed from the inside using 20 min epoxy. When the glue had set the inside of the hull was given 2 coats of white primer, just to tidy it up.
The deck was then reinstalled (dry) and taped into place and the hull sides brought up against it using elastic bands / spanish windlass where required. Now the hull could be turned over to get the templates made for the cradles for the stand.
This was done and the stand made, primed and painted.
(http://s8.postimg.org/vdynaygsl/Dalog008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stand_made.jpg
...so far, so good.
Regards,
Ray.
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Nice work so far Ray, hard to believe that is the same hull. Looking forward to this rebuild :-))
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What patience and dedication. Looking good. :-))
ken
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Definatly following this one O0
Dave
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Thank you gents - that's my fan club up to 3 now... {-) {-) {-)
Back to the job in hand.
The stand was finished off with a topcoat of red - just what I had to hand really.
Once that was dry I used some ribbed draught excluder to act as cushioning for the model.
Now the hull could be mounted right way up.
(http://s5.postimg.org/62j3jdj9z/Dalog009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
cradle_painted.jpg
Marks were made on the inner bulwarks to identify positions for the bulwark supports, of which there are 44, used a red fine tip marker pen for this.
The deck was then once again removed, giving full access for fitting out of the running gear.
The hole for the rudder tube had been previously drilled out and, for whatever reason, had been reamed into an elliptic shape - so this had to be repaired.
To that end, a plastic patch was applied on the inside and smothered with P38. This patch also gave me something to work on, on the outside of the hull, creating a shallow well which was also filled with the P38.
Once hardened off the P38 was sanded down and position marked for drilling.
The pilot hole was drilled then gradually opened out until rudder tube was a push fit. Found a pair of plastic bearings on an old proptube which I'd kept for cutting up so these were pressed into service.
(http://s5.postimg.org/vp9uqdxp3/Dalog011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
rudder_tube.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
This photo shows some of the red marks as described above (and the rudder tube in place).
A length of threaded rod was cut to size to form the rudder shaft. Next came the rudder blade.
Used a template from my previous model (Pilot Boat) to cut the 2 halves of the blade from 0.5mm plasticard. The shaft was laid onto 1 half, covered with a thick layer of epoxy resin, second half of the blade laid onto this and the whole thing clamped to harden off.
The proptube was reinstalled (dry) along with shaft and propeller.
A frame was then made, from plywood scrap, to support the motor and taped into place. Huco coupling added and the whole lined up. happy with that so all removed for next operation, which was to make the oiling tube for the prop.
Drilled hole in the tube then cut and dressed section of brass tube.
Tried soldering tube in place but insufficient heat produced. Remembered reading something about this and decided to dig out an old butane gas torch I'd been given - Bingo! - the solder melted straight away and the tube pushed into place - no problem ;)
A length of clear tubing was immersed in hot water and then teased onto the oiling tube - job done. :-))
The whole drive-train was once again installed and checked for alignment. Now the proptube was epoxied into place.
Once the glue had hardened off the drive-train was again removed.
A support was then made for the inboard end of the prop-tube. This to minimize any possible vibration once everything is up and running.
(http://s5.postimg.org/jm4j2tmmv/Dalog010.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
proptube.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Final placement of running gear (electrics) will be worked out next.
Regards,
Ray.
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fan club up to 4, nice boat and nice work
best regards Jack.
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Make that 5 Plug! That's a nice looking hull shape.
Ian.
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So, now the rudder blade has been smothered with P38.
Motor mount and battery tray made and painted, 2 cross-members installed to support the rudder servo and the ESC.
(http://s5.postimg.org/x2ky87z6f/Dalog012.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
rudder_pitted.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
All the running gear was then refitted and tested - all ok.
(http://s5.postimg.org/8alc0zhzr/Dalog013.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
running_gear.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
All bare wood was then painted and running gear back into position.
(http://s5.postimg.org/qspol7zrr/Denise_Anne_023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
tested_ok.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Next, the hull was tested in the bath and checked for watertight integrity and stability - so far, so good :-))
Happy with everything so far - the main deck was tackled next...
Started by gluing 12mm x 5mm strips of balsa to the main deck opening - these were laid with the 5mm edge in line with the edges of the opening thereby giving me a total of 6.5mm landing area for the hatch coaming. (same for the boat deck).
Deck cyanoed in place, P38 applied on deck / bulwarks to fill minor gaps and maintain watertightness. This was left overnight to harden off then sanded down and finished off with fine grade wet 'n dry.
Wasn't happy with the result so it was back to basics - 1st job = Strip out the running gear (should have done that in the first place - now it's all covered in fine dust >>:-( ).
The rudder blade also needed further attention due to "pitting" in the P38 (see previous photo).
Once that was dealt with I cracked on with deck, getting rid of the excess P38.
Did a much better job this time - now for the bulwark supports:-
These were cut from 1.5mm ply - a bit fiddly as ranged from 25mm down to 14mm in height.
Here's the start of them anyway...
(http://s5.postimg.org/vdbv05jh3/Dalog014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bulkwarks_underway.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Hope to get some more done tomorrow.
Regards,
Ray.
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Captain P.............I am sure it must be an optical illusion, however the prop shaft & ancillaries plate looks bent over :o to the STDB side.......whereas the rudder control arm appears straight from the same perspective :-))........Derek
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I think its an optical illusoon caused by the shadow of the prop shaft. It is being projected onto a curved surface. Cover that part of your screen with your hand, and the shaft straightens out again.
Keep up the good work, there's six of us now. :-))
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Well Bob...we now know where you name is from :}
They say the camera does not lie.......well yes ....but the image can be distorted to the human eye
I tried your suggestion as below......... O0.................all straight................ Derek
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Hi is this the caldercraft one
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the prop shaft & ancillaries plate looks bent over :o to the STDB side.......whereas the rudder control arm appears straight from the same perspective :-)) ........Derek
:o Phew ! You had me doubting myself for a while there Derek {-)
I think its an optical illusoon caused by the shadow of the prop shaft. :-))
Thanks for clearing that one up Bob :-))
Hi is this the caldercraft one
Hi Darren - don't know whether caldercraft were involved in the marketing of this model or not but the kit was produced by Graupner O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Bulwarks were coming along nicely - got to number 41 of 44 then managed to slice my finger with the Stanley Knife so I've been out of commission for a few days while the finger healed.
So, this is where we're at:-
(http://s5.postimg.org/lgttx5niv/Dalog015.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bulwark_supports.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Hope to get going again later on today.
Regards,
Ray.
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Welcome to the finger slicing club. You're now a fully fledged member. {-)
Regarding the bulwarks, I cannot see whether the bases are touching the deck. If so, is there a little gully behind them to allow water to flow around. ?
cheers
ken
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Welcome to the finger slicing club. You're now a fully fledged member. {-)
Regarding the bulwarks, I cannot see whether the bases are touching the deck. If so, is there a little gully behind them to allow water to flow around. ?
cheers
ken
Don't know how I've managed to keep all my digits, considering the amount of abuse they've received over the years <*<
There is a very small gap to the rear of each bulwark support Kenny - can't find them in the photos though (must get SWMBO to award me with a decent camera) O0
Continuing: 2 x freeing ports were cut out on each side, using the chain-drilling method, then fettled with the needle files.
Next, some strips of 3mm ply were cut for use as hatch coamings. When glue hardened off, some cling-film was placed over the coaming to act as a glue barrier while the corresponding hatch frames were made around the coaming to achieve a good tight fit.
(http://s5.postimg.org/3knn0ifkn/Dalog016.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
coamings.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
This went very well however, I hadn't thought this out properly. With the height of the central deck access hatch the top would be almost level with the top of the bulwarks and it looked ridiculous. :embarrassed:
So, spent a bit of time removing the coamings again then replaced them with a deck level channel around the inside of the opening.
The coaming for the boat deck is ok as that is a raised section anyway for the rowing boat.
So now the main hatch is fitted flush and conforms to deck sheer.
Done this by soaking the hatch in hot water then holding it in position with an old battery.
(http://s5.postimg.org/z5nm40nkn/Dalog017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
hatches.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Happy with that, so now I can prep the hull for painting O0 .
Regards,
Ray.
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The hull was given a good rub down, dusted off and washed with warm soapy water then rinsed and left to dry naturally.
The hull was then given 2 coats of grey primer, followed by 2 coats of red primer.
(http://s5.postimg.org/fcusx11lj/Dalog018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
red_primer.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
When this had stood for 24 hrs attention was given to carefull masking off and the hull below the waterline (and the main deck) were given 2 coats of Halfords "BMW Imola Red 11" spray.
The masking was then carefully removed after about 1hr - no paint "pull" observed - then left to harden off again.
In the meantime attention was given to the wheelhouse. All the old varnish was removed and the portholes were popped off and put aside as spares - they were out of scale and had been out of alignment anyway.
Backing boards were put on the inside and then filled with P38.
(http://s5.postimg.org/cwszj6jiv/Dalog019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
wheelhouse.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
While rubbing down the wheelhouse it just sort of disintegrated in my hands, so I've decided to make a new one but using what bits I can from the old one to use as templates.
Here's the progress to date:-
(http://s5.postimg.org/t9318wxuf/Dalog022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
oldandnew.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s5.postimg.org/tn4d8ihxz/Dalog024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
newone.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
I'm using 2mm ply for this job and will need to add some external trimming once I get the basic structure together.
....another update to follow shortly.
Regards,
Ray.
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...and back to the hull again:-
Once again, the hull was masked off and white primer applied to the bow wave and rubbing strake, followed by Halfords "Appliance White" topcoat x 2.
Waited the obligatory 1 hr then removed all the masking again and set the hull aside to harden off.
Masked up yet again and got the upper hull sprayed with grey primer then topcoated using Halfords "Vauxhall Jade".
(http://s5.postimg.org/f5760iqmv/Dalog021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
hull_painted.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
I had to do a little bit of touching in at the rubbing strake - it would appear that I hadn't pressed the masking tape fully into the groove in a couple of places :embarrassed:
When all was completely dry the BECC lettering was applied and then, finally, the whole hull was given a few coats of matt varnish to seal all the paintwork.
(http://s5.postimg.org/w7002m5hz/Dalog025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
named.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s5.postimg.org/4kx8hxm53/Dalog026.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
varnished.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
I've managed to knock the boat stand off the workbench and broken it, so the next job will be to make another (more substantial) one. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Nice job, congratulations
It looks like the only thing you'll keep from the original boat is the hull O0
Best regards
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"When all was completely dry the BECC lettering was applied and then, finally, the whole hull was given a few coats of matt varnish to seal all the paintwork."
Hi cap'n , loving the build. A question if I may; the Matt varnish, was it brushed or sprayed? And which product did you use.
Many thanks
Chris B
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Nice job, congratulations
It looks like the only thing you'll keep from the original boat is the hull O0
Best regards
Thank you for the compliments - I'm hoping the 2 masts will be ok, and the derrick, we'll see...
Hi cap'n , loving the build. A question if I may; the Matt varnish, was it brushed or sprayed? And which product did you use.
Many thanks.
Chris B
Hi Chris - I normally use rust-oleum matt varnish spray, from B&Q. They've stopped stocking it at my local store so I bought their alternative, VALSPAR, we'll see how that fares in the coming months ;)
Regards,
Ray.
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Quiet lovely. Enjoying the transformation, I have a Samson hull sitting in the garage awaiting the same sort of treatment. all I need are some drawings or plans for it. Once again, very nice. Thank you. Phil
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...back onboard.
Been quite busy over the last week with "other commitments" so we've not done a great amount of modelling >>:-(
However, here's a little update...
The original building stand, which was 5mm ply, has been replaced with a more substantial 10mm ply, with the stretchers being glued and pinned.
While paint was drying I went on to tackling the capping rail.
This was broken into 6 pieces when I first removed it but it's all usable. So, all the sections were sanded down and 2mm x 1mm lime strip was glued to the underside of the capping rail, at it's inboard side, to act as a rail between the bulwark supports and the capping itself.
(http://s30.postimg.org/nmlvqce4h/Denise_Anne_05_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
cap_support.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
This should ensure a good level capping.
The parts were then stained with Teak Mahogany satin. (This will be used on all the boat's woodwork).
(http://s5.postimg.org/lqt4faxqv/Denise_Anne_05_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stained.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
While things were being stained / painted a start was made on the wheelhouse window frames and wooden trim.
(http://s5.postimg.org/xen69umvr/Denise_Anne_05_005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
window_frame.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Using slow drying wood glue on this so, while we wait, I decide to re-install all the running gear.
This was done and then thought it would be a good idea to fit the flush deck access hatch.
Now a bad error comes to light - the rudder servo and the ESC were sitting too high so that the deck access hatch couldn't fit flush - that's because my original fitting out was done when I had the high coamings, whereas I'd subsequently changed the coamings to a flush channel.
It also meant I would have to alter the tiller rod....TIME OUT for Coffee.
...and another update to follow shortly O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Once I had calmed down I removed the servo and ESC platform, whittled away a portion of the cross-members then reinstalled the gear.
(http://s5.postimg.org/eov6t3u53/Denise_Anne_05_018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
whittled.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
A new tiller rod was made and fitted then finally the hatch was laid on and secured with Robbe casement fasteners.
Carried out a bench test and now all ok.
(http://s5.postimg.org/ghy3hffbr/Denise_Anne_05_021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
tiller_rod.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Incidentally, here's the new stand, complete with hull protectors by way of draught excluder (Lidl's best).
(http://s5.postimg.org/3rtv4c7dj/Denise_Anne_05_012.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stand.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
(http://s5.postimg.org/blugpqf6f/Denise_Anne_05_014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bargain.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
I do love a bargain - 50 pence only :-))
...and today I got my new camera. Hoping for much better quality photographs once I get the hang of it %)
Regards,
Ray.
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All looking good Ray.
Just out of interest, what sort of camera did you end up with?
Ian.
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Thank you Ian - the camera is a Nikon L840 £159.99 :o
I've only tried a few shots - family pets, couple of stills - getting the hang of the various settings before I start using it for the boats :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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G'day Ray,
Not familiar with that Nikon, but I use a number of Nikon DSLR's and only last week just got a new Sigma 150 - 500 Telephoto lens, auto focus, and what a lifechanger that is. The lens alone weighs just under 2KG, so carrying a camera around has just reached a new level! Main reason for this new aquisition was for wildlife and bird photography, but is super versatile for other types as well. Not quite something that fits in your pocket though!
Keep up the great modelling as well!
Ian
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I've not given up on this one guys and girls - just got a new laptop to go with the new camera and trying to get into the swing of windows 8.1 and then I'll be ok for updating - apologies to all interested parties :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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This is just a test photo to ensure all is well before attempting any further updates.
Been having compatibility issues with laptop / camera >:-o
(http://s13.postimg.org/e4mehre53/Test_Pic.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
test_pic.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
Hopefully all ok now...
Regards,
Ray.
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I wasn't happy with the job I'd done on the capping rail so rubbed it all down and started again.
(http://s11.postimg.org/w4hef0bcz/Dalog027.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
caprail.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
This time it was given a slightly lighter coat of stain - happy with that so on we go...
Back to the wheelhouse. All wood trim has been glued into position, slight camber created for the wheelhouse roof. Now ready for staining.
(http://s17.postimg.org/9z4ihzhkf/Dalog028.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
woodtrim.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Main wheelhouse given 2 coats of the teak satin woodstain - left to dry off overnight - the bridge wings were tackled next. Using the originals which should match up ok once they've been stained.
(http://s8.postimg.org/5ws6qrf2t/Dalog029.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
whstained.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
(http://s13.postimg.org/3v2tkuyqf/Dalog030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
old_wings.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
The wings and the remainder of the deck fittings were sanded back, the wooden bits stained along with the bridge wings, and the bits and pieces of the winch put back together.
The majority of the deck fittings now ready...
(http://s7.postimg.org/3jydethdn/Dalog031.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
fittings.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The original wheelhouse "glass" has been salvaged and cleaned up then glued in using Formula 560 canopy glue.
Some minor sanding was required to get the wings to fit nicely to the wheelhouse and they were then epoxied into place.
Once the glue had cured the wheelhouse was dry fitted to the deck to measure up for the supports for the wings. These were cut from a length of copper-coated mild steel rod and rubbed down with wet 'n dry, used dry, to remove the coating.
Holes were then drilled and wing supports push-fitted to ensure correct height prior to gluing.
So, the wheelhouse was epoxied to the deck and the supports cyanoed in place.
Other fittings glued on: Fish hold cover, ice hold cover, 2 warp guides, accommodation skylight, winch and gear housing.
(http://s15.postimg.org/ue7nrvbe3/Dalog032.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
glued_fittings.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
...and here's a little shot looking down from the bridge :-))
(http://s27.postimg.org/o7r4z1ofn/Dalog033.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
skippers_view.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
Regards,
Ray.
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Very Tidy. :-))
That's a nice job you're making of her.
Cheers
ken
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Thanks Kenny,
I'll try to get a bit more done this evening and update if time permits.
Regards,
Ray.
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...continuing
Port and Stbd Nav lights glued to the wheelhouse roof, also glued on the radar - the roof won't be glued on until a skipper has been found and placed at the ships wheel.
Crew companion way painted, portholes c/w "glass" glued in, door handles / hinges made and installed.
The 2 gallows have been painted up and glued into position. Once again I utilised the Citadel Paints and this dries quite quickly, being water based acrylic.
Grab rails made for the bridge access ladders.
Stanchions and rails for atop the wheelhouse net storage have been repaired and just need painting up before fixing in place.
Finally, for this session, the galley stove chimney has been painted and glued in position.
Here's a few photos:-
(http://s12.postimg.org/4kp1yid5p/Dalog034.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stbd.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s22.postimg.org/on83orudd/Dalog035.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
gallows.jpg
(http://s11.postimg.org/ggnbqgkwz/Dalog036.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
port.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
Regards,
Ray.
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Another little update - and about time too... >>:-( <*<
In that last photo you can see plans pinned to the wall but, they are from a previous model (TON12), I just left them there for a bit of decoration %)
I don't have the plans for this model - I'm just copying bits and pieces from my other ELKE.
...so on we go.
The rails / stanchions for the "spare net storage" were painted and glued into place.
(http://s13.postimg.org/vmrt91xkn/Dalog037.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
netstore.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Early on in this build I decided to make the foremast removable. Found an old windchime hollow metal tube which, cut to size, makes an ideal "underdeck" tabernacle, which ensures the mast goes back into correct position every time and helps keep it upright.
(http://s8.postimg.org/4bvzh32gl/Dalog048.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
tabernacle.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The downside to this is having to find a way to install the for'd gallas (gallows) supporting bar which needs to be secured to the mast.
The same thing applies to the after gallas supports as they attach to the side of the superstructure which, of course, is removable for access to the model innards.
So, a hole was drilled part way into the side of the mast and a shallow bend made, on the end of the bar, at the mast insert. Another angled bend was induced at the gallas end of the bar and this just tucks under the gallas frame and sits inside the warp guide, thereby making it easily removable after sailing.
(http://s23.postimg.org/6698iwb4b/Dalog041.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
for'd_gallas.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The after gallas were tackled in the same manner except that both bars are removable.
(http://s22.postimg.org/5gg0xcx1t/Dalog040.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
after_gallas.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
I'll post another update later tonight - Dad's Taxi going out again >>:-(
Regards,
Ray.
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A few more little bits have been done:-
The fairleads have been epoxied to the capping rail.
Cruciform bollards added around the maindeck.
Anchor windlass painted up, chain wound on and attached to the anchor. Epoxy used to attach windlass to deck. Cyano to secure the anchor chain.
Lifebelts mounted on bridge wings.
Lamp platforms set onto foremast, new one made for sternlight on after mast.
Both masts drilled and metal loops set into them, ready for rigging up.
Both masts have been painted with white tops then staining to the remainder.
A quantity of rigging thread has been treated by pulling it through saddle soap, twisting it as it is pulled through, this ensures a good covering and gives some protection against water.
This also helps prevent "hairy rigging".
Emergency radio batteries box glued to the wheelhouse roof.
All navigation lamps currently undergoing paint job.
The sail booms have been stripped back and restained, then cyano used to attach to masts.
Made a "Y" shaped bracket for the foremast boom rest. This will be attached to the front of the wheelhouse during my next workshop session.
Here's a couple of photos:
(http://s29.postimg.org/b3kf9mi93/Dalog039.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
windlass.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s10.postimg.org/k0i4mox4p/Dalog042.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
fordmast_painted.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
I really must make an effort to recruit a crew for the boat <*< - she's getting close to completion now.
Regards,
Ray.
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Damned fine work sir.. :-))
The Nikon L840....beautiful camera.....and what a zoom it has on it.
Loving the build so far and cannot wait to see her sailing.
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Damned fine work sir.. :-))
The Nikon L840....beautiful camera.....and what a zoom it has on it.
Loving the build so far and cannot wait to see her sailing.
Yep, the camera is a good 'un, the user still needs to develop technical ability with it though %) .
Thank you for your kind comments, another update later today :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Done a fair amount since my last update - even managed to take a few photos - so here goes:-
The sails, in furled mode, were attached and the running rigging started.
(http://s23.postimg.org/jlltywql7/Dalog043.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
sailson.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
...and another of the mast mounted...
(http://s11.postimg.org/4lw58cokj/Dalog044.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
sailmounted.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Quite pleased with that so went on to the standing rigging - here's the result...
(http://s23.postimg.org/tyd6i3qfv/Dalog045.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
rigged.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
...and the mast, as previously stated, can be removed, as a unit and rigged up again at the lakeside.
Rigged up the after mast in the same way and it can also be removed intact.
(http://s13.postimg.org/qwx8jaf07/Dalog046.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
aftrigged.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The last bit of rigging tackled was the 2 x fore to aft wires between the crosstrees of the masts. This was achieved using split-pins and rigging cord.
The crew was recruited from Wilko, in the form of a bunch of firemen (£1.50 for ten of them), so these were put "under the knife", painted up and cyanoed to the boat.
A couple of small nets were made up and glued in place.
The running gear was given a final test then into the bath she went for ballasting - just needed a small amount of lead up for'd - she sits spot on the water line.
(http://s21.postimg.org/a04zgi507/Dalog047.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
ballast.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
She will be given her sea / acceptance trials later today at the lake - weather permitting <*<
Note: There was no rowing boat in with the wreckage so I'll be making one this coming week so, for the purpose of this log, the model is done and dusted.
Here's a couple more photographs.
(http://s1.postimg.org/mvp6d4gwv/Dalog048.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
above.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s14.postimg.org/cfzi85k4x/Dalog049.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
portside.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Thank you to one and all for the interest shown and the helpful comments O0
I'll try to get a couple of photo's of her on the water and post them up. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I'll be watching this one as I have one of these to build
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Cracking job there Ray, she does look authentic and will look great sailing, a good chance to practice with that new camera, some nice close up's now. :-))
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Thanks Joe - I now know how difficult it is to control the boat and the camera at the same time %%
Still, I did manage to get a few shots away - hope they reproduce ok on here:- %)
(http://s30.postimg.org/3tnqv3ko1/Dalog050.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
portside.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s22.postimg.org/ql2jviv75/Dalog051.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stbdbow.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s1.postimg.org/hzn1nfu33/Dalog052.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
portbow.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s12.postimg.org/xss4r1hql/Dalog053.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bows.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
...she sailed beautifully :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Well done Captain. She looks a real treat on the water :-)) What thread did you use for the rigging? Well worth your time and effort. Thanks for sharing. Phil
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Ray she looks magnificent, with nothing in the back ground to compere her with it could be the real thing. :-)) :-))
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what thread did you use for the rigging? Well worth your time and effort. Thanks for sharing. Phil
Thanks Phil - The majority of the rigging is commercially supplied, just used different sizes for the running rigging and the standing rigging.
The short lengths which hold the booms down are shirring elastic, makes life easier for getting the tension right O0 .
Also, used "invisible" thread to tie off the standing rigging to the bottle-screws. The method here is, once the tension is right, use a small bulldog clip to hold it in place, tie the doubled up portion with 1 knot as close as possible to the bottle-screw, leaving a trailing end of the thread. Then run cyano into the doubled up portion and while the glue is still wet, wind the excess invisible thread around and up the joint. Then just let the cyano go off before trimming any loose ends.
Phew ! - a bit long winded but I think you'll understand.
Ray she looks magnificent, with nothing in the back ground to compere her with it could be the real thing. :-)) :-))
Thanks again Joe - next time I'll collar somebody to operate the boat for me :-))
Regards,
Ray.