Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: raflaunches on June 08, 2015, 08:52:21 pm
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Hello everyone
I've been a bit quiet recently with regards to build threads but I have been busy in-between the Majestic build sections.
A few weeks back I approached Ron if I could buy a kit of the HMS Humber that he had just released, anyone who has seen my build of HMS Gnat would know that I really, really like Royal Navy riverine craft and Humber ticked all the boxes. An added bonus was that it wouldn't be huge like Gnat as she is built to 1/96 scale.
A bit of early history for the un-knowing...
HMS Humber was originally called Javary and built for the Brazilian Navy in 1913 to patrol the Amazon River with two sisters- Solimoes and Madeira- all named after tributaries of the Amazon. They were all built by Vickers at Barrow and designed to be approx 1200 tons carrying two 6in guns in a twin turret forward on a draught of 4ft 6in. To obtain such a shallow draught a very beamy hull was necessary- 261ft 6in (BP) by 49ft and the compact 6in turret was an improved version fitted to the Monmouth class armoured cruisers. A powerful secondary armament was also fitted, two single 4.72in howitzers aft, four Vickers 3pdrs and six machine guns.
However, by February 1914 all three monitors were complete and ready for delivery to Rio but the Brazilians were now that in a position to pay for the vessels as rubber prices had dropped in value in 1913 and Brazil could no longer afford to expand her navy. The three vessels were put up for sale at the same time as the battleship Rio de Janeiro which would be sold to Turkey in December 1913. But the river monitors were not such a saleable proposition as a battleship during the pre-war era so they remained laid up at Barrow. Just before the out break of the Great War Churchill expressed his concern about the possibility of their falling into enemy hands so an order was sent out to all firms building warships for foreign navies will not be permitted to pass in to foreign hands or leave the country (this included the battleship Rio de Janeirio). The Royal Navy agreed a price to take them over and the monitors were purchased for £155,000 each.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/jhxxee.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/207thug.jpg)
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Part 2- The kit
Well what do you get...
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2qu3hic.jpg)
Essentially you get as seen in the picture above:
a fibre glass hull measuring 810mm long by 130mm wide
three laser cut pre-printed 1mm plastic sheets for decks, superstructures, hatches, etc
a 0.25mm laser cut pre-printed plastic sheet for ships doors and ships boats decks
a vacform sheet containing all the ships boats, conning tower roof, 6in turret base barbette
a fibre glass turret
two lengths of plastic tube cut to length for the conning tower and funnel
a build CD
plan
instructions with parts list
a tray of fittings including prop shafts
plastic strip (various thicknesses)
etched brass stanchions and ladders
lengths of dowel for the masts and yard arms
(http://i59.tinypic.com/21l99gh.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/10s58b4.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2643t6b.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/eapd2x.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/29mr7g1.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2ld9i4i.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/mu9w28.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2dncjt.jpg)
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I see Deans Marine have got a new publicity dept..... a good one too! :-))
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Well I do like his kits, and he is local to me too which is another benefit %)
Standby for the build pictures, i've reached the fittings stage and I've only been on it for a week!
Nice kit nice build, no problems so far.
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Here's one I built earlier....!
https://youtu.be/GUOdagrTgfo?t=40s
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I see Deans Marine have got a new publicity dept..... a good one too! :-))
I have been admiring this ship at Peterborough and Wicksteed, but looking at the very low draft and freeboard wondered how it will sail, and how to access steering gear whilst remaining watertight.
I appreciate such a detailed build log and will be following this thread with great interest.
PS: I have several Deans ships and Deans hulled ships. Excellent quality.
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That will make for a very attractive model, looking forward to the pictures :-))
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Its a monitor:O) Nuff said :-)) I saw the model at Shepton mallet and I was impressed. Oh to have a few quid, maybe in the future after I have built a load of other shippes.
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Deans Marine factory tour... part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N8fkN3rhL0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N8fkN3rhL0)
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Build pictures coming tomorrow night for those interested in how the model goes together. I have changed a couple of things as matter of personal tastes but it is exactly per instructions.
I have decided to go for the more expensive RB fitings individual stanchions made from machined brass 11mm high 3 ball inconjunction with 0.2mm nickel silver railings. I'm not very good at etched brass railings! :embarrassed: There are a few upgrades that are suggested in the kit instructions if you wish to 'improve' your model further- such as brass props, exposed prop shafts, railings.
I have also replaced the mast dowel with brass 4mm dia tube as I have snapped wooden masts in the past I don't like replacing them or repairing them.
Until tomorrow night... :-))
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The Science Museum does, well did when I was last there, have a builder's model of Humber on display.
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Some interesting stuff here! :-))
( Keep posting Nick, we'll sort out what posts go where afterwards! )
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Lucky for my poor credit card that the kit isn't 1/72 scale.
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Part 3- The hull and running gear
Following the instructions and the plans in conjunction with the build CD provided I marked out the excess material on the hull, the prop shaft exits, A-frame support brackets and the rudder posts all in red marker pen.
Using my files (and wearing all relevant PPE- thats face mask, goggles and gloves!) I filed away the material and used the relevant drill sizes to drill out the holes.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2114d1f.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/15qd6hf.jpg)
Now some of you who are aware of the location of the rudders will notice that they are approx 12mm too forward to be completely accurate, there is a very, very good reason why Dean's Marine have done this and its not due to lack of references or laziness: if you look at the stern of the hull you will notice that it inclines inwards and the rudders if correctly located will sit beneath this area- no problem I hear you say well try getting access to the tiller arms after the deck is on! However I think the correct word for me is sadistic and I 'corrected' them before I realised my error!
Thats the problem of having copies of the original drawings from NMM!
I can still get access to my tillers but they'll never ever come off again! So my advice is to follow the instructions and how the design team have designed it to be!
(http://i57.tinypic.com/288umgl.jpg)
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Part 4- prop shafts and rudders
(http://i61.tinypic.com/ali7mv.jpg)
As mentioned earlier, I moved the rudders back (and what a mistaka to maka!) I had to move the prop shafts the same distance (12mm) and the A-frames brackets too. I glued the A frame brackets first and positioned the prop shafts (M2 internal diameter) tacking them in place with super-glue before putting filler around and smoothing in to its final position.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2psep81.jpg)
The rudders are white-metal items and slide smoothly into place, using the rudders as a guide and the cut-off point on the underside of the hull I followed the instructions and removed from the 1mm pre-printed plastic card sheet the tunnel walls. These are sandwiched together like bread and butter methods used in some scratch-building hulls from the 60s. Glued on to the hull and once again applied the body filler to blend it all together exactly as described in the instructions.
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Part 5- the decks
(http://i58.tinypic.com/ix49hv.jpg)
All the decks are pre-printed laser cut 1mm thick plastic card items that only requires some minor filing to fit. In the kit there plastic pre-cut lengths on the 1mm sheet which are used for the deck supports, simply push out and glue into the fibre glass hull, build up as thicker layer as you wish, the kit instructions suggest a minimum of three.
I stuck the decks into place with super glue and smoothed any gaps with body filler and fine modelling filler to smooth any blemishes.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2exlnau.jpg)
Just remember to fit the deck hatch supports before the decks go into place, like earlier items they are pre-printed laser cut items that require a little swipe with a sanding stick (file) and they are ready to glue into position.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2vdnuk1.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2v9d6it.jpg)
As you can see in the next pictures I have used a micro servo for the rudder control servo and two lengths of brass rod for the connecting rods, they connect to the white-metal tiller arms. The servo sits on the item supplied in the kit made from five pieces of pre-printed laser cut plastic sheet which hold the servo snugly.
The plastic vacform item you can see behind the servo are the motor mounts, nothing is connected at the moment as the hull will be painted soon and I don't want motors and radio gear floating around the hull.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/3010jgl.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/16lbvab.jpg)
The weird lumpy things on the quarter deck I believe are either for standing on or protection of the hull/rudders, not sure which but every picture there is of the Humber class they are fitted and Ron has included them in the kit.
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Blimey, he's nearly finished it! :o
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Hi Mudway
Thanks for the pictures of the Humber builders model, it wasn't in the science museum when I visited there in December 2012 which really annoyed me as that was something I wanted to see!
My Dad and I wanted to build Humber in 1/32 scale to match our Insect class gunboat but it would be 6inches longer 4inches wider and be twice as heavy! Lets just say we quickly changed our minds but my wanting of a Humber class has at last been forfilled in a size that matches some of my early warships.
More pictures to come tomorrow night of the superstructure builds- oh and Martin there is a bit more to add before finishing, a lot of guns to be made and all the stanchions to be drilled, fitted and railing wire to be pushed through the three balls! I love simple looking warships which you can add as much detail as you want and Ron's kits have always, for me, achieved this.
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Hey Nick......in OZ, we had a story of an old Paddler which had so little draft she could float on a heavy dew O0
I see you have installed the propeller's as outboard turning.......is the manufacturers instruction?
Considering the Humbers underwater geometry between the skegs, propeller's and rudders, it may be interesting to consider a trial with inboard turning props :o
You may be aware we had a thread [courtesy of Marty] on the differences between inboard & outboard turning props a week or so ago
The other point is you guys in Europe call your waterways rivers %)...when in reality our OZ renditions are just overgrown creeks >>:-(..... infested with European Carp. <*< <*< ........Derek
PS...with plastic propeller's being such a difficult material to maintain the paint, is there another lightweight alternative to RED.......?
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Hi Derek
The props aren't fixed in yet and they were there just for show for the pictures, they will be in-turning and be either brass or bronze replacements. The ones in the kit can be used if so desired and as they are plastic they can be sprayed with the relevant metallic colour.
Hope this helps.
Part 6- superstructures
The forward bridge
(http://i62.tinypic.com/eqyrdj.jpg)
Once again pre-printed laser cut items that have the square windows cut out for you- no more trying to get your windows parallel or in line with the next one!
Simply push out, swipe with your sanding stick and glue with your favorite plastic glue- I used Revell Contacta fine modelling glue.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/29pyvc8.jpg)
The strengthening beams and supports for the bridge wings.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2encktx.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/eq86iq.jpg)
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Part 6 (A) superstructures
The funnel casing. Once again same method of construction and materials.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/eiw7b.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/10wid6u.jpg)
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Part 6 (B) superstructures
The aft bridge
Same construction, etc...
(http://i58.tinypic.com/oanibs.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/vfzg2w.jpg)
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Part 7- engine room hatch
Same construction and materials used as per superstructures, this time some angles are thrown in to create the hatch and its openings.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2uif334.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2q1gzrt.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/33zd1m8.jpg)
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Is HMS Humber still in prototyping? I can't see it on the Dean's web site.
Very detailed and helpful build sequence. Following each stage with great interest.
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Hi Bob
I think I got something like a pre-production kit, however I'm sure if you contact Ron there would be one available if you wanted one.
I'm really enjoying this build because its not so fussy like my Prince George- and thats due to me being a detailer and taking probably too far! :D
Hope you continue to enjoy the build, tormorrow night will be the wheel house/chart room, hammock lockers and boat use lockers.
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Sorry for the late next post, had to work Friday night and Saturday and displayed at Wicksteed at War on the Sunday!
Part 8- the hammock lockers.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/205uzyo.jpg)
Same construction and materials as before, but this time it has engraved (laser cut) detail on the upper and side surfaces.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/nv42eq.jpg)
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Part 9- boat lockers
There are two boat lockers on the Humber, both are made like the hammock lockers but slightly smaller.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/20fszyr.jpg)
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Part 10- the wheel house and chart room
The upper 'bridge' or wheel house is made from 1mm laser cut plastic card with the windows cut out for you. Make sure you get your references correct and double check your window locations in the instructions as it is easy to get them the wrong way round like I did!
(http://i59.tinypic.com/r1h6kk.jpg)
The chart room- once again check your references, this room appears to appear and disappear depending on the photos and where they were taken. The ship's plans show the chart room but trial runs from the ship's builders appear to show nothing in place, but laid up on Barrow shows something at the front, whilst in later pictures show nothing once again, and finally when Humber went to Malta you can see a frame work which looks surprisingly like a chart room layout but not boxed in. I think it depended on where the monitor was serving at th time and weather conditions- it was probably a removeable structure but with no confirmable references I can neither confirm or deny!
(http://i60.tinypic.com/994cbp.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/3008vir.jpg)
Now when I first saw the kit prototype model Ron showed me a curious feature of the model- at first I thought it was a periscope but when Ron showed me the drawings and what is underneath the bridge it is now belief that its a retractable/extendable exhaust for a diesel engine. Ron expalined that it was his understanding that the diesel engine was fitted to provide electical power to the turret when the monitor was beached or in position to bombard as smoke/steam from the funnel could obscure the target or identify the monitors location. The kit provides dowel to make up the exhaust but I used brass tubes that were slightly smaller than the outside layer reducing to a 2mm tube. Thats my personnal preference.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2nm1929.jpg)
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Very nice work. Should this now be in the build log section for warships? loving it. Please keep posting. Thanks. Phil :-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi Nick, I had a scratch built one for a short while, which had the modified armament in mid WW1, apparently they all wore their main guns out quite quickly and some how Humber ended up with 2 x 6" mount forward and a single 6" mount aft. She was active in the Baltic sea when we batted for the white Russians in 1919, when she saw off a Russian cruiser.
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She's coming along brilliently Nick. I like the diesel exhaust, it looks pretty good.
I look forward to see the weapons as you assemble them.
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keeping my eye on you laddie boy O0 %)
at this rate you will have the Humber ready for the open days (see you there)
splendid job old chap.. :-))
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Hi everyone
sorry for the delay, since my promotion I've had to do some more courses and this last one was a killer- Air Power Test, only 20 questions and no time limit but it has taken me since last thurday night to tonight to finish it! Anyone would think I'd be a military strategist instead of an aircraft techie!
Glad everyone likes my progress and the kit so far, I've started making the guns- the two 6inch, two 4.72in howitzers, four 3pdrs and six machine guns. Enjoyed them all so far but first...
Part 11- conning tower
The conning tower sits beneath the forward bridge and is made form two parts, a pre-cut-to-length plastic tube and a vacform roof section. A few swipes of the file and some careful cutting the roof section is removed from the vacform sheet. It sits snuggly on the plastic tube, you can had viewing ports if you wish.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/14ng5xh.jpg)
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Part 12- the 4.72inch howitzers
These are situated on the quarter deck when built but were moved to the upper deck later on when the monitors had a 6inch gun added to the quarter deck.
The kit parts are completey new items and are a mix of white metal and resin- very little clean up required- nothing that a small file and a few swipes to tidy up seams doesn't sort out. Extra detail can be added but they do look the part.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2qu41o3.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/mikxuf.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/63wvmb.jpg)
And the first gun in place, well not glued yet! The strange item behind it is described as a training shell hoist (I think!) On the ship's drawings it shows it and describes but no idea why its there!
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2yye00i.jpg)
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Why would that gun have such a high elevation?
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It is a howitzer, which are designed to fire a 'plunging' shell, with a high arc of fire rather than the more normal, shallower arc of naval guns.
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Useful for situations especially like Gallipoli where you have to reach up into the hinterland or amongst the cliffs. They do look splendid Nick, she is a bobby dazzler that model:O)
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If you build it anything like your others it will be brill, talking of other gunboats this period, how about the small paddler Kinsha bought in in 1900. I think this one would be right up your street.
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Hi everyone
Next batch of photos, I have temporarily placed the lockers and resin fittings onto the superstructure and decks to get an impression of the finished model.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2d82g1.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/10zzgps.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/21ki05j.jpg)
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If you build it anything like your others it will be brill, talking of other gunboats this period, how about the small paddler Kinsha bought in in 1900. I think this one would be right up your street.
Hi Dodes
Glad you like her, and stop tempting me with other gunboats!!! I bought a book about Yangtse river gunboats from the 1890s to 1940 and Kinsha with her siblings make fantastic looking gunboats, might have to change some of my future plans to incorporate another gunboat! :D
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Part 13: Paint
The hull was cleaned and given a light sand and cleaned again before a primer layer was applied. I used Humbrol 1 Primer in an aerosol can, any blemishes were corrected before another covering layer was added.
I used Humbrol 64 Light Grey for the upper hull and Humbrol 20 Crimson for the anti fouling paint. I used Tamiya tape to mask the upper hull and create the waterline.
(http://s7.postimg.org/f0yidvzpz/P6300747.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/f0yidvzpz/)
(http://s29.postimg.org/wd49yo59v/P6300750.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wd49yo59v/)
However before all the painting I did drill out the port holes and added a plastic card strip to represent the strengthening beam which were added to the monitors after gunnery trials proved that the hull wasn't strong enough!
I've also at this point added the bollards and fairleads from the fittings pack, these were stuck to deck capping strips to which the 11mm high 3 ball stanchions holes were drilled.
(http://s10.postimg.org/k90cz3i45/P6300751.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/k90cz3i45/)
I have taken the decision to plank my decks but its hard to say whether the original vessels were planked or not but the builders model and later pictures show a planked deck so I decided she would look nice with a planked deck. I have used 2mm wide 0.5mm thick lime wood strip with graphite pencil rubbed up the sides of the plank to represent caulking. They are stuck in place with Deluxe Rocket Card glue which looks like PVA but has the properties of a slow setting 1minute superglue! See if you can see the two deck openings in the pictures!
(http://s7.postimg.org/5q4harcev/P6300749.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5q4harcev/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/alkv2emh9/P6300752.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/alkv2emh9/)
Sorry about the pictures, I've had to change to a different hosting site, just click on the images and they will open up to full size.
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Very 'Tidy' . :-)) excellent planking.
Cheers
ken
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I'm about to start planking the deck on my Iron Duke model (also 1/96 scale) and have been doing research on how people plank the decks. At the moment I'm leaning towards using black electricians insulating tape between each plank. I tried the grahite pencil method on a small test piece but couldn't really see the effect so I'm very interested on how you did this as the finish looks fine and it has the potential to be somewhat easier given I have 6.5 feet to do!
Any guidance would be appreciated
Cheers
Geoff
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Hi Geoff
Hopefully these pictures will help show what tools and materials I use for planking and creating the caulking effect.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/15819ox.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/1sbplu.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/dqizjb.jpg)
I think I know what might be your problem, I'm using a solid graphite pencil not a wooden pencil with a graphite lead (you seem to get a better build up of graphite). I also rub the graphite on both sides of the plank and I allow the glue 'squelch' (for a better word!) between the planks before wiping it away. I then sand with a fine grade sandpaper, or these days, a sanding foam block to get an even surface. I then use a semi gloss (or semi-matt) varnish to seal it.
It takes some time as you have to sand the plank edges, rub with graphite, glue, sand, and repeat for what feels like an eternity buts its worth it. The pencils I use are available from places like Colemans and cost about £1.50 to £2.00 each. If you look at the pencil on the right you can see how much is worn away from a new one on the left. But this is the accumulation of three models being planked so far, so they are good value for money.
Hope this helps.
Hi Kenny glad you like her so far, at the moment she is my favourite model kit built so far!!!
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Hi everyone
Now that I'm back in the UK I can upload the pictures of the build so far.
The build so far...
The deck is finished being planked, superstructure painted and attached, hand rails are 11mm high 2 ball and 3 ball versions available from a Deans Marine and 0.2mm Nickel Silver is threaded through for the wire.
Some of the fittings have been relocated to the particular era I'm modelling but other than that it's per the kit.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/15qulw4.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/aphbna.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2s0mm53.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25jifth.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/28cdqfl.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2i1mc8p.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/13ygwz.jpg)
What's left?...
Well I have to make the ship's boats and rig the davits, put the glass into the port holes, rig the mast, and add some crew.
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Welcome back to Blighty Nick! :-)
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Amen Mister Mod:O) She looks a lovely model so far.
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Lovely job Nick, she is looking super. Must admit I've been thinking about you out at the sharp end with all the added pressure at 'work'.
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Hi Guys
It's nice to be back- 2 stone lighter, 4inches missing around my waist, a lot of strange silvery stuff appearing in my hair! Probably one of the most stressful things I've done for a long time. It's taken me two weeks to get used to being back home, members of Wicksteed couldn't believe it was me at the X-mas Dinner! According to my mum I was like a zombie for the first five days.
Anyway glad the Humber has turned out so well and looking forward to the next project, some of you may have seen me sneaking a large box away from Ron Deans open weekend!
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Ho ho, what has Mr RAF got himself? I reckon it is an M17 kit.
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Ho ho, what has Mr RAF got himself? I reckon it is an M17 kit.
Fraid not Ian, it is on my list but she's not out with another kit I'm interested in (SMS Wespe) until the Dortmund show next year, I'll give a clue- she gave her name to an entire class or should I say era of battleship!
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I Dread the thought {-)
Ian
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You know Ian I think you may be right!
Look for a new topic soon entitled ' Fear God and Dreadnought '
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Corrected from the Crete angle!
(http://i.imgbox.com/CQngk1Rk.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/CQngk1Rk)
(http://i.imgbox.com/vgLV2rPv.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/vgLV2rPv)
(http://i.imgbox.com/8J5V54nr.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/8J5V54nr)
(http://i.imgbox.com/SLsKEcYe.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/SLsKEcYe)
(http://i.imgbox.com/VsTxwh97.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/VsTxwh97)
(http://i.imgbox.com/UT0WdThA.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/UT0WdThA)
(http://i.imgbox.com/vYnbIH6k.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/vYnbIH6k)
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Thanks Martin :-))
Not sure why pictures taken on my iPad stretch when I upload them, it's the only device that does it!
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Lovely news Nick! What with Pete knocking out Pre dreadnoughts, Bob looking to start a Monitor :-)) , Joe building another lovely warship and now you starting on a Dreadnought, 2016 is going to be a fun year for forum watching.
I forgot many other fine models military and civvy, but I enjoy reading many of them as well:O)
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As usual you have built to your high standards, well done.
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Just catching up on this build - another great model! The wood planking is well worth it, really adds something to the model.
Can I ask where you get the nickel silver wire from to do the railing?
Looking forward to Wicksteed, camera at the ready for the WW1 fleet review.
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Hi James
I got it from Deans Marine, I believe you can buy it online through their online shop.
Lovely stuff to work with, stuck it in my hand quite a few times as well! :}
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I bought some from my local Haskins, you can get it in different sizes for threading beads.