Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: imsinking on July 07, 2015, 02:07:04 pm
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I've never 'scratch built' anything , how hard can it be!?
Not keen on doing the hull, found a Precedent Huntsman 31 hull , in need of work , a fortune changed hands (£10 anyway) no superstructure , deck badly fitted etc . . .
Off I went , an EVIL paint scheme had to come off, Black / Yellow / Red flames , being Fibreglass NITROMORs stripper was out , tried everything, Fairy Power spray / Brake fluid , nil . . sanding wasn't denting the paint either , dawned on me that it's HAMMERITE silicone paint >:-o idly flicking at it with an EXACTO chisel blade it started coming off !
Out in the yard after a couple of hours it's all off, they hadn't sanded the hull down luckily & the paint wasn't gripping , the yard looked like a Jackson Pollock painting tho '. . . Out with the frames / propshaft / rudder and anything else N B G
Having an elderly Aerokits Huntsman I just made cardboard templates of all I need
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/wpxUtk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0wpxUtkj)
I elected to leave the windows / frames cut outs until fitted in place
The hull's now sanded, propshaft in & P framed , holes drilled for the rudder / etc
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/ibm908.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exibm908j)
As I suspected the deck split away & needed re attaching with resin inside & out when I fitted the new internals , also fitted the motor mount bearers
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/7VwFTH.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pa7VwFTHj)
cut a close fitting base for the cabin to be built on , & strapped it to the deck
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/g2E3i3.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyg2E3i3j)
This will stay in place til the cabin is assembled
Well deck frame ready to go in
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/rHXcXq.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exrHXcXqj)
Needed to taper the sides to leave an acceptably narrow joint at the top join
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/rOlCbu.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyrOlCbuj)
you can see the taper clearly here
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/913/Pv9PLv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pdPv9PLvj)
Cabin sides / frames / front screen now fitted , window apertures cut out
Now for the dreaded roof, under advisement I made this from 2 pieces of 1.5 mm ply the faces NEXT to each other were scored radially out from the centre as ply will only flex easily one way & it's a compound curvature , glued together with 24hr ARALDITE & strapped down tightly to the top of the frames, next day PERFECT, after releasing from the straps, maintained the required shape
Glue on the roof
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/e2rNDq.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipe2rNDqj)
Did this upside down as ARALDITE runs when it cures , used ARALDITE thru-out the cabin build for the strength & no movement benefits <:( two earlier efforts using aliphatic resin were SCRAPPED as they twisted all over the place.
The cabin in all it's glory released & trimmed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/Yl44Am.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/paYl44Amj)
and the engine intakes attached, a coat of resin to seal the wood . . and on to the next stage.
Can I ask you not to post yet ? as I'll lose track of where I am in this saga, I'll be doing another 4 posts O0
Bill
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O0 Now the swelling's gone down on the finger (one finger typist)continuing on.
Got the basics now, what route to follow ? Seeing some MATRIX characters on EBay I bid on them :embarrassed: IDIOT ! probably ceramic and heavy , too late now . . . :o I won ! 3 figures for £12 inc post , They arrived & WOW, resin figures 1/12 scale fully articulated just what I wanted ($25 each in the States)
Main deck lined / stained / varnished , located a full face bike helmet PolyCarbonate shield , IRIDUM (blue) coated , cut a suitably shaped cardboard template & cut it out
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/913/z4uVHb.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pdz4uVHbj)
Couldn't heat it up as the coating might have wrecked , >:-o Hernia job bending it cold
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/jhEkxP.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idjhEkxPj)
Planking sheet lined / stained / varnished & ARALDITED in /console in / doors fitted, Mahogany fillers need to hide the step of the roof , holes drilled , screen tiedowns from stainless strip (Old BOSCH wiper blade insert)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/QYoXpV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyQYoXpVj)
cabin rail holes drilled / cabin painted / windows fitted. >:-o bad move.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/RvcCj5.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyRvcCj5j)
Pulpit next, 3mm & 2mm brass rod brazed it all together on fireproof cement shaped & drilled to the deck contours, feet from brass sheet punched out with a hand witney for the round dome affect then drilled to fit stanchions.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/T2YOZ9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exT2YOZ9j)
Looks the part.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/MS4nIe.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exMS4nIej)
Paint it, found a suitable winch & had drilled the deck to this template.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/6e8G72.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ey6e8G72j)
Hull paintin' time, made a turntable to make it easier, grey primer then grey gloss, sound's easy ? >>:-( NO . . I'd used Halford's hi build primer & every time I tried to spray over it it either cracked or wrinkled , scraped the lot off & hit it with self-etching primer , CARPLANS grey primer (2 coats) & their 02 Grey gloss (3 coats) I think I came on the forum when I had this problem early in the year.
Contain your EXCITEMENT there's more to come.
Bill
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HMM , Yeess . . . Moving on . . . .
Finishing the interior now , battery cradles / rudder servo mount. . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/3lc7Rt.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ey3lc7Rtj)
Paint the interior . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/IofhgH.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pbIofhgHj)
Johnstones Weathershield cream ,slow drying & SMELLS (Still ! )
ESC / Motor / Servo / Fuseblock / Pulpit / Winch all aboard
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/hygwcT.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idhygwcTj)
Tank tests show 12amps stalled with ROBBE 755/5 direct drive to 40X prop, with 2 X 9.6v NiHm packs in series (giving 19.2v @ 5000mah) ESC is a Micro-Gyro FR40 (in non BEC) twin fuse block is Action Elect' P95 indicator Fuses.
Cabin fittings (Macs Mouldings) / screen attached / cabin handrails on & cabin top planking sheet lined / stained & varnished.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/Qqfqx7.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exQqfqx7j)
OY ! ! SWMBO GIVING ORDERS? I'll need to cut her down to size <*<
Completed set up, the imitation planking sheet behind the screen looks good.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/7i7Sqk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ip7i7Sqkj)
Cut 12mm section out of Trinity's boots to reach the wheel & throttle.
Another view.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/uRPLAi.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/iduRPLAij)
Seems to be a hit with the kid's.
Morfya soon.
Bill
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Thank's Martin , (their not AFRAID of you YET )
It's MAIDEN voyage time.
Runs 5amps slow / 12amps half / 8amps on the plane . . .BUT . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/hcZd1W.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exhcZd1Wj)
It's too heavy forward, when it comes off the power plunges into the waves, not good.
Looks OK at full speed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/sMMgrv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pasMMgrvj)
I need to sort it out .
Weighed the ROBBE motor & mount.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/gsHDAC.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0gsHDACj)
It needs to go, along with the FR40 / Fuseblock / radio battery pack, it's go brushless for the solution.
A LEOPARD 2845/5 1780Kv inrunner + 30amp Marine V3 ESC (all water cooled).
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/908/mj40GR.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p8mj40GRj)
It'll be way to fast @ 19v , a pair of VENOM 8.4v 5000mah sticks arrived, & in parallel this time to give 8.4v @ 10000mah combined.
The new layout.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/euwS0H.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ideuwS0Hj)
Also went down a prop size to 35s hits 17000rpm @ 8.4v.
Close up view.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/jjinGt.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pbjjinGtj)
This set up is 5amps slow/ 12amps half / 10amps on the plane , still taking a little water over the bows if it slows too quickly , I need to work on my throttle control, takes rough water in it's stride , but the welldeck gets a bit of water after a while.
You BORED yet ?
Nearly there.
Bill
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AT LONG LAST ! O0 The final episode .
A front view.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/7Yb2Cv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ey7Yb2Cvj)
Not happy with the rubber strake it's sponge & it's already cut (right side by the first stanchion)
Stern view.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/xJDCNr.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0xJDCNrj)
>>:-( two days before I realised I'd MISPELT the name ! No way you'll get BECCs lettering off that late, just live with it . . .
the underwater gear.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/EEDLqf.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idEEDLqfj)
I'd allowed for up to 50mm props (26mm from keel to C/L of shaft) looks weird with the smaller prop.
Side view.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/633/eI43lj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/hleI43ljj)
Lights are in , Nav lights / Back lights in the well deck.
Removable units are tricky to keep watertight, my solution is silicone sealer around the entire cabin base , used EVOSTIK builders silicone (grey) put plenty of masking tape around the deck aperture (vasaline on the tape as well) if it sticks to both <:(
pressed the cabin down until it's evenly seated all round & leave to set , EVOSTIK's good because it hasn't that evil vinegar smell while it's going off.
Rear fixing is a stainless M6 x 20mm set bolt turned down to 4mm dia at the end.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/j8TRW2.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idj8TRW2j)
The hull attachment is an alloy plate.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/K8XEif.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipK8XEifj)
Dropped the unit back in & drilled a 4mm dia hole thru the rear welldeck wall and the alloy plate then opened up the welldeck hole to 6mm dia.
The front locking device is a quarter turn spring loaded bayonet , disguised as a forward GPS dome.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/UuzVM5.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyUuzVM5j)
Cant buy anything had to make it.
Underside of the front latch.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/N6zuGu.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0N6zuGuj)
note the silicone seal.
The hull attachment.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/2MSmPB.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/id2MSmPBj)
An inverted B&Q twintrack alloy rail is the crossbar & a homemade stainless bayonet socket ( I'd made positioning this hard for m'self as I'd fitted the black cabin windows way back & couldn't see , got it eventually)
AND THAT'S IT %% The boat is easy to run & looks the part at top speed , around an hours running at high speed, a lot more if it's cruising , rough seas are no problem tho' the welldeck ships a little water . . .
SOOO that's 'SCRATCH BUILDING ' eh , would I do it again ? ?
NOT ON YOUR LIFE ! ! ! %%
Thanks Martin for riding shotgun , please post if you have a mind .
Bill
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Where did you get your imitation planking from?
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It's just .75mm ply lined (with a GOOD pen) stained with SIKENS exterior Mahogany wood stain ( goes darker the more coats you put on) finished off with JOHNSTONES Quick dry satin woodstain varnish , need to cut out material so the grain is in the same plane as the plank lines.
Bill
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Great build Bill! :-))
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Hmm , anyone looking at this would think I KNEW what I was doing :embarrassed: it's been 16 months of pure AGONY . . . you name it , it went wrong, two entire sheets of ply separated , (that made FOUR attempts at the cabin <:( ) bad paints , boat balance being wrong , even one of the 9.6v battery packs tried to set fire to the house whilst being charged , on & on . . .
This log's been a sort of THERAPY for me to get it out of my system , nearly threw the towel in a couple of times .
Bill %%
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Well worth the effort Bill! :-))
What did you make the rubbing strip out off?
What Speed controller?
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ERM . . .Ah had to think there , the rubbing strip is from Models By Design, they call it 8mm rubber D section as I've said it's sponge composition prone to being damaged (already cut it on the photo )
I did try to cut down some 8mm O seal , not much heavier & solid silicone, but no success .
The E S C is LEOPARD's 30amp Marine V3 watercooled, needed to get the programming card as the 'beeps' made no sense , in fact does anyone know how to get into the advanced setting's on this card ? I need to up the reverse speed . . .
When programming it just goes up & down one side of t'card , there's nothing on the instruction sheet how to do it. . .
Bill
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A short vid' shot today (Fri 10th July)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqHv7gUtub4&feature=youtu.be
Looks OK actually , & the batteries were partially run down at this stage , tried to show the 'dipping in' when it comes off the power, can't see it properly :embarrassed:
Bill
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Hmm , after test runs and spotters around the lake consensus of opinion is , that the hull shape is not lending itself to slowing down evenly, snapping the throttle shut is allowing the stern to jump up & make the bows plough into it's own wake . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/901/pulqJ4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p1pulqJ4j)
It seems to swivel (near the water outlet on the side) trying extra weight at the stern just makes it ride heavier at the rear and no improvement, so it's out with the 'L' plate's until I learn a smoother technique on the throttle :embarrassed:
Bill
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Bill
My advice would be to imagine you're driving the real thing. No sudden full-throttle turns (it will heal over alarmingly), no snapping the throttle shut (it will drop off the plane suddenly). Think ahead and keep everything smooth and wide. This is a rough-water deep-Vee hull; it's not a fast-electric and it won't corner or handle like one; it wasn't designed to do so.
I've built one or two of these myself 8)
Dave M
(Photo by Martin Davis hisself - ta, m'duck!)
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Imagine myself ABOARD ? ? %% I cant cross the Mersey on a smooth day without getting the collies . . .I used to build ships, I've had no desire to actually RIDE on one ,your pic looks to be riding a LOT higher than my boat, maybe The cabin's overweight ? No matter, I'll live with it . . . Smoooth turns / slooow sloowly / Up & down / side to side . . . GROAN . . . .
Bill
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One way to get round your tendency to slam the throttle open or closed is to fit a servo slow circuit between the Rx and ESC. A quick Google found this http://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/servo-control-devices/servo-slow/ (http://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/servo-control-devices/servo-slow/) . This will slow the movent down and take up to 15 seconds to go from one end of the stick movement to the other.
Some computer transmitters allow you to program in the servo speed.
Jim
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I think the photo was taken from an angle which accentuated the speed. This is more typical of the ride height. The model is only 1/16 scale (23" long); built of liteply and weighs just over a kilo. A friend who is restoring a full-size H31 and crews for another owner says that the model "sits" just right. There's a video taken by Martin at Wicksteed on You Tube - just ask for 'Dave's Huntsman 31'.
BTW I'm currently building a 1/12 scale Huntress 23, which is the same size as the H31 but a larger scale.
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One way to get round your tendency to slam the throttle open or closed is to fit a servo slow circuit between the Rx and ESC. A quick Google found this http://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/servo-control-devices/servo-slow/ (http://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/servo-control-devices/servo-slow/) . This will slow the movent down and take up to 15 seconds to go from one end of the stick movement to the other.
Some computer transmitters allow you to program in the servo speed.
Jim
Jim , I'd love to do this , BUT you wont live long on our lake with the kiddies & their high speed Chinese torpedo's . . . needs snap responses from the boats to get out of the way >>:-( ( I like the way they pile into the wall flat out, the hull break's up spectacularly O0 )
Bill
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Yes , I see the first pic' is in a turn Dave , your second one's not showing much wake disturbance , mine flings it everywhere . . . I'll have to get a right to left shot of mine to compare with it . . . . {:-{
Bill
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%% When I was looking for a paint scheme for the boat, I came across this on the FAIREY OWNERS website
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/lLQ9Km.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pblLQ9Kmj)
%% The sea looks pretty calm, wonder why it's airborne . . . .
Bill
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Could be calm with a good swell on the sea.
Ned
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I've finally connected up the wiring for the lights . . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/909/mFn2FL.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9mFn2FLj)
These were a complete package from ' Captain Jacks Models' consisting of Nav' light's / 2 white Hi intensity LED's + ample wiring + resistors and 9v connector .
Exterior view . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/909/zmM1Zw.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/p9zmM1Zwj)
The Nav' light's FLASH %% & can be seen all round , the well deck lights backlight the crew, very effective in the DARK .
The switch is from a discarded brushless ESC I found by our lake , the battery frames are just 2mm brass bent to shape & araldited into the cabin wall , I elected to do it this way as the lights will only be used at Venetian night op's and the 9v battery will last the night out .
Bill
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Bear with me guy's IMAGESHACK is playing up . . . .
Bill
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Send me the images Bill, I'll sort them out for you! :-))
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Send me the images Bill, I'll sort them out for you! :-))
Thanks for the offer Martin , (don't think you'd be too happy with 500+ images across all the forums I haunt %% ) I seem to have 95% of my pics back , I'll live with that , look's as tho' it's been a major crash with the length of time it took to get up & running again at IMAGESHACK . . . .
Bill
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I'm still not happy with the weight distribution , so I'm going back to 9.6v NiHms , single stick this time & that's needed some new battery cradles . . . .
remove the old twin mount's . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/aPHSvK.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poaPHSvKj)
ground out the araldite back to the hull.
The new mounts . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/921/HIT7lB.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plHIT7lBj)
Fitting round the stern tube will keep it secure .
Glued back in with Araldite . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/XuEL7V.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnXuEL7Vj)
And coated with it as well to waterproof them.
Repainted . . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/2UPs6C.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po2UPs6Cj)
The paint's still tacky after 5 days .
With the extra volt (9.6v instead of 8.4v) it'll give a thousand or so more revs , plus the bigger prop and the weight loss of 500grms should improve things no end , all I need is the weather . . . .
Bill
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Nice modification Bill you will soon be giving J.J. a run for his money {-)
Mark.
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You've got a PM Mark.
Bill
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Bill......that is a nice clean modification :-))
We see the cooling water pickup point and the motor water jacket inlet & outlet ports, however is the final water discharge that black mark [in an earlier image] on the stdb side of the hull about midships?
Derek
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That's correct Derek , the discharge is the stbd outlet . . . the pickup pipe's depth position is critical in the prop wash to get a healthy thru flow of water , I've just got the one pickup feeding thru the motor then the ESC & out of the discharge .
Bill
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phew read it all, excellent build, did the battery relocate cure the attempts to submarine under deceleration?
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phew read it all, excellent build, did the battery relocate cure the attempts to submarine under deceleration?
It helped , but if I try to come off the power quickly it dives into it's own wake ,just got to live with it . . .the extra volt (9.6v from 8.4v) & the weight reduction really makes it fly now , with Brushless motors the voltages are all important as the power band is given in Kv (revs per volt)
Bill
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Well , after 12 months regular running (3 days a week) surviving numerous ramming's / getting dropped :embarrassed: cold fingers (bent the rudder) and the odd rescue of other boats ( TUG'S {-) ), the boat's kept on going . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/QiwpXb.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poQiwpXbj)
get good battery life from the single stick , around 40 minute's high speed / 30 minutes slow . . . very little water getting into the hull even in rough waters , by sheer fluke I have a good boat . . . .
Bill %%
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With the success of the Swordsman conversion to LIPO's , and not having burnt the house down or see the boat explode , I've been experimenting with a LIPO setup in the huntress (meddling %% ) not wanting to commit to it completely I've attached a battery carrier to the top of the rear NiHm frame . . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/p7OR58.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pop7OR58j)
The servo end is locked down by two brass pins thru the servo bulkhead, only a push fit so easily removed, these also serve as strap mounts for the battery.
This allows the LIPO to be across the boat , weighing 250g less than the NiHm stick & further back in the boat plus the removal of the lead ballast from the rear (125g) makes things noticeably lighter . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/p7OR58.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pop7OR58j)
Stupidly fast now , I've propped down to 35standard from 35x.
The ESC has a 3.4 cut off setting for LIPO batteries so I set that up , gives you limp home mode when it activates . . . a real seagull worrier now <*< Bill
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:embarrassed: OOPs put the wrong last pic up , it should've been . . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/Ysr5dH.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnYsr5dHj)
Bill %%
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Bill...is it just an illusion.....or are the wire sizes progressively smaller....wire loom from the battery looks heavier than the jumper extension, then the wire from the motor looks lighter than the jumper extension :o.......... Derek
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Yeah , the battery's leads are 10g I use 14g in all my wiring & from the E S C ? god knows :P
Bill
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The speed now is alarmingly quick , wont turn properly under power , drop the power as it turns & it's OK the increased rev's from the extra 2 volts is making the prop cavitate until it gets up on the plane , ideal seagull worrier tho', they'll need jet packs to take off quicker . . . :-))
Bill
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Hi imsinking
Checking out your boat to get some idea of battery position.
The plans I received with my boat are not what you would call plans as it's on two sheets of A4.
But I have ways to get them to full size!!!
Great looking boat !!!!
Canabus
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Hmm, blowing 20amp fuses regularly , now it's winter on full power ,toying with changing the inrunner motor to an outrunner with less KV , runs fine at half throttle , I think the inrunner at 1780KV is to strong outrunner may save more weight forward , I'll look into it . . . .
Bill
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Hi imsinking
I am running a Hobbyking 3648-1450 1600Watt with a 100A ESC, 3s 5800mah Lipo and a 2 blade 40mm 1.4 pitch prop.
It's quick and I do back off for the turns.
I have the nose of the boat a little down at rest.
It picks up the bow on power easily.
I have not tried 4S that will add about 5000 rpm !!!
Canabus
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I'm tempted by a Leopard outrunner LC3536 - 8T - 960Kv , and 95grms weight , it's only half the weight of the inrunner that's on the boat now at 200gms , no ones got any at the moment , keeping an eye out . . .
Bill
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Bill
A great model. The deeper prop will help to avoid cavitation. But I would experiment by making a rudder with a bit more leading edge at the bottom. A lot of forward thrust is possibly bypassing the rudder reducing it’s effectiveness. You can also add a layer of say 2mm ply to each side. This can then be profiled like a wing but with the thickest section in the centre (not like a aero profile). I would also experiment with less crew. Just the helmsman. Or move the two guys to the stern. It might reduce the nose dive tendencies. Hope it all works out.
David
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Fed up with the constant fuse blowing I took the plunge & got a Tornado Thumper from Overlander . . .
It's a V3 3530/14 1100Kv weighing in at 70grams , this might help the nose heavy attitude too . . . .
it looks TINY . . . .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/DFYirU.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDFYirUj)
Fitted straight in & I fitted my usual fan on the coupling adaptor as there's no water cooling, first run yesterday (Friday) wow . . . no insane howling from the motor anymore & it's sitting up more forward, goes on the plane straight away at third throttle, speed is a bit less , was far to fast previously on 11.1 LIPO with the Leopard inrunner (lep 2845/5 1780Kv) but still a seagull worrier , well pleased :-))
Bill
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When you compare the new brushless motor with the original brushed version you wonder why anyone uses brushed motors in performance boats. In my Sea Queen I added a computer to fan for cooling though I think you can get water cooled mounting plates.
Yet another step forward with the boat.
David
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Well , at the end of this year, 2019 , the boats been reliable UNTIL I hit the lake wall at full speed HEAD ON :embarrassed: the neck strap got tangled round the throttle & rudder sticks , like an idiot I looked down to see what it was , the BANG focused my attention >>:-( still had power & brought it back to my side of the lake , hmm looks OK , :o MAYHEM inside . . . the battery had come off it's mount smashed the oiler tube off the stern tube wrecked the cabin cross member latching bar and was starting to SWELL up , disconnected it immediately and threw it on the concrete block , got out of the blast area by hiding behind the club lockup , after a few minutes I peered round the container . . . and everything was STILL THERE , so no nuclear fallout , the battery was U/S a big dent in the side of it where it hit the oiler tube & really swelled up . . . cut the wires off it and put it in a bucket of sea water and hid it until next club day , wasn't taking it home , nothing about bomb squads being called to the lake on the news , so all was well . . . repairs took a couple of weeks the bows had cracked where it met the deck & everything else was re positioned , the stern tube was OK hadn't been moved , got off fairly lightly considering , just a new battery .
Bill
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Good that it didn't come off too badly and you have repaired it.
Given that you have used a Huntsman 31 hull what you have actually built is more akin to a Huntsman 31 Sport which has a large open cockpit and no aft cabin unlike the more common Huntsman 31. I'm currently scratch building a Huntsman 31 Sport.
Chris
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Good that it didn't come off too badly and you have repaired it.
Given that you have used a Huntsman 31 hull what you have actually built is more akin to a Huntsman 31 Sport which has a large open cockpit and no aft cabin unlike the more common Huntsman 31. I'm currently scratch building a Huntsman 31 Sport.
Chris
Keep the forward weight as light as possible , with the steep rake on the bows it will sit low, i'm convinced I've made the cabin too heavy being the root cause of my problem .
Bill
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Thanks Bill, I'll bear that in mind.
One of the problems with the models of course is that we have to fit the motor(s) much further forward than in the full sized boats which doesn't help when coming off the plane.
Chris