Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Capt Podge on September 08, 2015, 12:34:19 pm
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In 1997 I started my first kit build - Billings "Smit Nederland" - 5 years later, yes 5 years, she took her maiden voyage.
At the time of purchase I didn't realise that this was an experienced builders kit (perhaps the guy in the model shop could have advised me of this). Anyway, I was torn between "Neddy" and the Bugsier 3 so went for Neddy just because she was the bigger of the two.
So, off we went, full of enthusiasm. That's when my lack of experience kicked in.
A number of mistakes were made and had to be put right.
For example: Having installed the Becker rudders I then painted them with undiluted Humbrol Enamel "to protect the brass" :embarrassed:
When the time came to fit the main deck I noted there were 2 sets of dotted lines (which, as it turns out, is the marking for the installation of the bulwarks) which I, in my ignorance, thought were cutting lines. Yep, I went at it with the Stanley knife. :o
Fortunately, I hadn't got very far before deciding to offer up the deck to the hull to test for fit. Another look at the plans (there were no building instructions) indicated where I'd gone wrong.
These are just a couple of examples to show just how much of a novice I was O0
So, after years of frustration, she finally went on her maiden voyage. One of the lads took a photo for me thus:-
(http://s13.postimg.org/hzj4x92uv/Smit_Nederland_underway.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
underway.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Now to the reason for the rebuild......
I'd been sailing the model on a Sunday morning at the lake, was asked to attend a meeting, so took the boat out of the water and sat her on one of the display tables outside the clubhouse. (You can probably guess what's coming...)
I came out to find my boat on the deck with bits & pieces scattered about <:( and one of the rudders broken away from the hull.
One of our own club members claimed to have accidently caught his clothing on the boat and dragged her off the table >>:-(
So, rather than make the situation worse, I just gathered it all up and returned home.
I tried to make repairs but it was never going to be the same again so the boat was put away in a dark corner and a start made on my next model.
Some months later, I was told what had really happened that day........needless to say that guy left the club and hasn't been around since.
Well, that's the background out of the way.
11 models later, I've dug Neddy out of the mire and she's in the workshop now.
Here's a couple of photos of her just before I stripped her down...
(http://s29.postimg.org/bi1f7jjwn/Dust01.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
dust01.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
(http://s1.postimg.org/srfktzfn3/Dust02.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
dust02.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
So, the top hamper was removed, dusted off and washed, dried off, then placed in shallow trays until needed - this included mast & rigging, funnels, radar, binnacle, aerials, guard rails and access ladders. The whole of the bridge was then dismantled. The parts will be used as templates for replacement.
Next came the main superstructure, followed by all the fittings, then the bulwarks, main deck and finally the running gear.
Some bits I'll be able to reuse, others will have to be remade.
I actually started this about a week ago and initially wasn't going to bother putting it on the Forum but I thought that perhaps it may be of interest to anyone else rebuilding this type of vessel.
Here's what I was faced with once the strip down was completed....
(http://s4.postimg.org/f8xjr13n1/Filthy.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
filthy.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s24.postimg.org/qr9i0psph/Damage01.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
damage01.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s23.postimg.org/ss1s9o417/Damage02.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
damage02.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
(http://s27.postimg.org/d4r4zw7fn/Damage03.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
damage03.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
Now the clean up could begin...
More to follow later on today
Regards,
Ray.
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We feel your pain Ray! >:-o
How are you going to 'beef up' the hull around the rudders and shafts?
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Spent the next five days rubbing down the hull (and my finger ends {-) )
(http://s29.postimg.org/w3cz7tqx3/Stripping01.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stripping01.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s2.postimg.org/gce4f8kl5/Stripping02.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
stripping02.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
This next photo shows the extent of the damaged where the rudder broke away...
(http://s1.postimg.org/9i1i74grz/Damage04.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
damage04.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
The inside of the hull was given a cursory wipe down and will be sprayed with a coat of primer later, just to tidy it up a bit.
(http://s22.postimg.org/lvqzu4j1d/Clean_up.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
cleanup.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
As can be seen from this next one, the hull has been stripped right back to the bare plastic.
(http://s24.postimg.org/5z4638vpx/Clean.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
clean.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
We feel your pain Ray! >:-o
How are you going to 'beef up' the hull around the rudders and shafts?
Martin, I think this answers your question %)
Next up, the repairing of the gaping hole.
My initial attempt was to make a copy of the Stbd rudder seat, using P38, so I brushed vaseline in and around the area, mixed the P38 and this was the result...
(http://s2.postimg.org/ps7rxo6rd/Plug01.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
plug01.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Unfortunately, the rudder seats are "handed" so all I ended up with was a copy of the Stbd seat :embarrassed:
Then I came up with the idea of using a piece of shaped balsa, epoxied in placed both inside and out to seal it - here's the result...
(http://s13.postimg.org/vjfldogqf/Plug02.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
plug02.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s2.postimg.org/v736csb3t/Plug03.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
plug03.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Before applying the epoxy I marked, in pencil, the position for drilling. This shows through the glue for when I reach that stage.
I think that should be satisfactory.
Regards,
Ray.
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And now to bring it up to date...
First task was to make and fit the deck edge supports.
A 69cm strip of wood, 6mm x 3.5mm, was clamped in place 3mm below the edge of the hull. The replacement deck will be 3mm thickness and therefore should sit flush with the top of the hull - I hope...
These supports also help to give the hull a bit of rigidity.
Once happy with the position of the supports they were glued in place with Cyano, using the capillary method to ensure the whole strip is secured to the hull.
(http://s22.postimg.org/enynqjxpd/Deck_supports.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
deck_supports.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The hull was then set aside to dry off.
In the meantime, the main deck was sanded back to bare wood. This also assisted in the removal of the bulwark support locating lugs which, due to the dismantling process, had snapped off flush with the deck.
So, here's a few more shots, with brief notes....
(http://s9.postimg.org/ds7gi7py7/Deck_off.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
deckoff.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
That's the deck as it was when I removed it...
(http://s15.postimg.org/h4giba4qj/Deck_sanded.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
decksanded.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
That's the deck sanded down on both sides....
(http://s21.postimg.org/b1sw7nvdj/Deck_damage.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
deckdamage.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
...and that's the result of my butchery from when I first built the model :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
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Forgot to add these other photos of the bits and pieces, some of which will be ok, others not so...
(http://s15.postimg.org/4swkyqsu3/Bulwark_supports.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bulwark_supports.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
That's all 69 bulwark supports - they will all have to be renewed.
(http://s8.postimg.org/48p33ooo5/Rudders_etc.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
ruddersetc.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The rudders, props etc will be cleaned up and reused - I hope.
(http://s30.postimg.org/6e4oqjinl/Saved_bits.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
bitsandpieces.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
...back to the rebuild then:-
Incidentally, the sanding of the deck has removed approx half of the thickness i.e. 1.5mm.
Now that the locating lugs have been removed, it's time to make a new deck.
A sheet of 3mm ply was selected and the old deck taped down firmly onto this, as a template.
(http://s4.postimg.org/fgcnka2v1/Template.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
template.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
The result isn't too bad and will be trimmed down gradually to achieve a good fit.
(http://s11.postimg.org/kon48wqhv/Newone.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
newone.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
...that's where we're at now.
Regards,
Ray.
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Wow, you're really ambitious! Interesting to follow your progress.
Hama
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Thanks Hama - nothing done today though, been a bit busy with other things O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Did a little bit of thinking about the deck again. The template for the deck has some damage, as noted previously, so this was laid onto the original plan and marks made to indicate starting point for making a tracing (from the plan) and transferring same onto the new deck.
(http://s1.postimg.org/l20nw0jnz/DSCN0484.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
tracing.jpg (http://postimage.org/app.php)
(http://s15.postimg.org/68pg0hwmj/DSCN0485.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
txtrace.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
With that done, it was time to start cutting.
So, the ply was trimmed, close to the lines, with the Stanley knife and an 'M' shaped metal ruler.
Sanding down was a bit of trial and error however, we got there in the end.
The cross member that supports the rearmost portion of the foredeck was glued in place. This also has the added function of keeping that portion of the hull at it's correct breadth.
Happy that the deck is a good fit so it was taped in place (dry fit for now).
(http://s17.postimg.org/qh5xjnrbj/DSCN0488.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
decktaped.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
Next came the hole for the Port rudder.
Used a number of drill bits to gradually open the hole and I'll ream it to size when I get to the rudder fitting stage.
For now, while the deck is in place, I can work out where the running gear is going to go.
The original 10mm x 9mm hardwood strip which carries the platform for the motors etc, needed sanding back to bare wood and a new platform had to be made due to the old one being damp and carrying a black mildew (or something horrid like that).
(http://s10.postimg.org/cqp0vwbax/DSCN0490.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
newforold.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/rtcty4uc3/DSCN0491.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
yuck.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
So now I'm ready to hit the bits of wood with sanding sealer, probably 3 coats, sanding down between coats.
As a back-up 110 pilot holes were drilled through the main deck, to identify the location of all the bulwark supports and some fittings. This was done just in case the pencil marks disappear when sanding down between coats of sealer.
Hoping to complete that small task tomorrow... %)
Regards,
Ray.
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Now then, where was I ?
...oh, yes. Obviously, with applying sanding sealer to the deck and sanding down, the holes I had drilled filled up again however, with a mini hand-drill the holes were cleared easily enough.
Back to the hull.
After a cursory clean up of the inside, masking tape applied over all the holes (from the outside) ready to spray with white primer, just to tidy things up a bit.
Once dried off, the position for the false keel / RGP was ascertained and marked, in pencil, ready for fitting. The RGP was then pinned and glued to the false keel. (RGP is just my way of saying "running gear platform") :embarrassed:
While that was drying off attention was given to the brass fittings: Rudders, props and anchors. These were stripped of paint using caustic soda crystals then rinsed in clean water and left to dry.
This had the added benefit of softening the residue of old glue, in this instance Stablit Express, making it fairly simple to remove.
The plastic fittings: Kort nozzles, sole plate and 'P' brackets were also thrown into the solution, along with the brassware.
The solution had no effect whatsoever, on the paint, so this was removed with wet 'n dry, used wet.
Now, the hull was turned over and the bilge keels glued back in position, faired in with P38.
The RGP is now epoxy glued in the hull.
During this little operation I managed to "spring" the cross-member off and so used the remainder of the mixed epoxy to reglue that as well.
Here's a few photo's:-
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OOPS ! I'll try that again...
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That last lot of photos were submitted using the direct attachments method - I don't seem to be able to do some writing, followed by 1 photo then some more writing then another photo etc.. :((
So, for the next update, I'll revert to using an image hosting website. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Nice work there Capt :-)) .
It may have taken 5 years but you did it justice. It just shows that experience comes with time, well done.
You didn't mention what really happened at the club......... Not the green eyed monster that knocked it off was it? U2
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Damn good 'restoration' :-)) - Looks like you are building a new kit!!!!!
Enjoying this O0
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I hate to admit this but try Picasa & Google+ :embarrassed:
Bit of a steep learning curve and a few of 'gotcha's' but once 'sussed', very quick!
PS. Topic renamed. ok2
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PS. Topic renamed. ok2
Thanks Martin :-))
Looks like you are building a new kit!!!!!
You're spot on there Carl - Fortunately I was able to save some of the fittings, so that should speed things up a little later on in the rebuild.
Not the green eyed monster that knocked it off was it? U2
O0 O0 O0 %)
Despite my best efforts, couldn't make it into the workshop today. <:(
We'll see what tomorrow brings.....
Regards,
Ray.
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Wow the JPEG 494 is probably the biggest optical illusion I've seen. I couldn't work out if the two rectangular pieces were recessed or protruding and how on earth did you get that bar clamped across the keel? Then realised we were looking into the hull and not from underneath. Never mind new glasses I need new eyes! :o U2
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Wow the JPEG 494 is probably the biggest optical illusion I've seen. U2
{-) {-) {-) %%
Now that you've pointed it out, I can see what you mean....the old Mk1 eyeballs ain't what they used to be. %)
....just a little update coming up.
The 'P' brackets, being plastic mouldings, come in 2 halves which needed gluing together c/w captive bolt. This then enters the hull and is secured with a single nut. These were temporarily fitted to aid alignment of the prop tubes.
Next, there's a Kort centralising rod which passes through the keel horizontally and into each side spacer of the Kort's.
My original effort was so out of line that it was abandoned altogether in favour of loads of glue.
This time I made sure I got it right.
That said, I still managed to drill 2 erroneous holes in the keel ! - However, these were covered up with epoxy, at the same time as the rod was glued in place.
Now we could tackle the Kort nozzles and rudders.
The rudders are fairly easy to fit but, to get them hanging vertically and square, the bottom of the rudder shaft has to locate in a ferule, which is embedded in a piece of wood, which is part of the skeg, which has to be attached to the Kort nozzle. %%
The original skegs disintegrated during the dismantling process so new ones had to be made.
So, these were made with 0.5mm & 1.0mm plasticard.
Next, the wooden block, which carries the ferule, was made with laminations of strip wood as I had nothing of the correct thickness in stock.
The block was then cyanoed in place.
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Now I needed to know exactly where to drill the hole for the bottom of the rudder shaft.
OK then. Fitted the korts first, so now the skeg could be attached and a mark made on the sidewall of the skeg, showing where to drill.
Because I've already fitted the skeg, how to get the hole made for the ferule ?
Went off for a brew to think it over....
On returning to the workshop I removed the rudder, turned the hull the right way up and found a suitable size drill bit however, I only had a 6cm gap between the workpiece and b ottom of the hull and my smallest hand drill is 12cm %%
Then I remembered I had bought a set of hollow hole punches (toolzone) at the Harrogate show back in early May. The smallest in the set is 3mm cut - just the right size. (I only bought them to change a £10 note so I'd have change for the Tyne Tunnel) :P
So, the punch was lowered through the hull opening and set on the required location. This left just 10 - 12mm proud inside the hull and this was given several strokes with a light hammer until the required depth was achieved.
The ferule was then fitted, utilising the same punch, to ensure it went in evenly.
The rudder was then refitted and checked - spot on. :-))
Right - that's the Stbd rudder sorted, now for the Port side....
Here's a few pics...
Regards,
Ray.
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Dammit, now you've got me thinking about re-furbing my old girl, It's no easy task stripping back and starting over and old kit but your'e doing a very nice job of it.
Phill
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Thanks Phill - it's actually quite frustrating in these early stages, in fact I've just spent 3hrs trying to get the Port rudder to hang vertical. Every time I tighten it up it skews across toward the centre. I know what the problem is: Where I've carried out the repair there's no hollow (as there should be) on the inside and I'm removing just a little at a time. Last thing I want is to remove too much and end up having to fill it again >>:-( .
The hollow needs to be sufficiently deep to accommodate a nut & spacer...
I'll have another crack at it tomorrow.
In the meantime, I'll be looking out for your "old girl" entering dry dock. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Nice Becker rudders!!! :-))
Are / were they standard with this model or were they 'extras'?
Enjoying this refurb.......... O0
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Nice Becker rudders!!! :-))
Are / were they standard with this model or were they 'extras'?
Enjoying this refurb.......... O0
Thanks Carl. The Becker rudders were part of the "extras" fittings kit - there wasn't any alternative really.
The fittings kit contained mainly brass items: Rudders, propellers, propshafts, proptubes, anchors, plus other smaller items.
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They're part of the std Smit Kit now
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They're part of the std Smit Kit now
Yep. Thanks for the info e2v. Just did a google (out of curiosity) and all advertising shows rudders, props etc.. included. :-))
They weren't when I bought it in 1997 though... >:-o >>:-(
Regards,
Ray.
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...back to the Port Rudder.
After several efforts at removing tiny amounts of material, followed by trial fittings of the rudder, I finally got it positioned correctly however, every time I tried operating it (by hand-operating the tiller arm) the whole thing was turning and the securing nuts were backing off each time.
Now then, a couple of days ago I wrote out a little note on a "post-it", telling myself "don't forget to lubricate the shaft" - guess who forgot to lubricate the shaft... <*<
So, once I'd realised that, I stripped the rudder down again, lubricated the shaft, put it back together, fitted to the boat and - Bingo - it works !
Total time taken, to fit 1 Becker Rudder = 6 hours !
What a numpty. {-) {-)
Didn't take any photos this time round - I'll include one or two in the next update. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Very little done since last update but here it is:-
Now, the 'P' brackets were removed, smeared with epoxy resin where they meet the hull and the nuts tightened up. The prop tubes were pushed through the 'P' brackets to keep them aligned whilst the gllue hardened up.
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Some of the leftover glue was smeared over the screws which keep the kort nozzles held tight against the underside of the hull.
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Oiling tubes were then made for the proptubes and soldered on...
Regards,
Ray.
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Where does the time go ?
It's been 10 days since the last update and, to be honest, very little modelling work has taken place during that time.
However, I've managed to get back into the workshop these past couple of evenings so here goes...
That pesky cross-member sprang off again so, to give more support, a bulkhead was made.
The rough shape of this was made with cereal packet card, trimmed & tried, until happy with the shape, then transferred to 3mm mdf.
Before fitting, a hatch was made, just in case access is needed to the bow area later on.
The access hatch is well up from the bottom of the hull as I want this bulkhead to be watertight "just in case" of any future damage during sailing sessions.
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Incidentally, the white primer I sprayed the inner hull with, has revealed a secondary bonus. As mentioned earlier, it gives the inside a clean appearance, but the bonus point: The primed surface is excellent for marking out in pencil - I did this when I test fitted the RGP and the new bulkhead.
The bulkhead hatch is just a cut-out, held in place with Robbe deck clips, with a balsa wood landing area on the other side, and a plastic nut & bolt serves as the handle.
P38 was then applied to seal off the edges of the bulkhead - started on the edges of the RGP as well, hoping this will stop any water getting underneath the platform.
As luck would have it, I ran out of P38 just 30 mins after the shops had shut. >>:-(
So the remainder of this evenings session was spent sanding down - hopefully get this bit finished off tomorrow.
In the last photo, the main deck is just laid on the hull, to show access to the hatch.
Regards,
Ray.
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Seal the MDF really well. If water gets to it it will expand. Don't ask how I know :embarrassed:
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Seal the MDF really well. If water gets to it it will expand. Don't ask how I know :embarrassed:
I honestly didn't know that - thank you very much for the advice, that wood's gonna get so many coats of sealer / paint it'll be another 1mm thick when I'm done. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I usually buy my P38 in 120ml tubes but this time I opted for the 250ml tin. I'm finding it easier to use than the tube for some reason...
Anyway, more P38 was applied this evening and once hardened off was given a cursory sanding down. This was followed by a wipedown with plain warm water to get rid of the resultant dust.
Next, attention was given to mounting the anchors. They will be non-working and so, to that end, they need to be in place before the deck goes on.
A suitable piece of tubing was teased onto the stocks of the anchors to prevent them from falling. Each of the flukes was then epoxied to the hull for stability.
Note: No glue on the inside so that, should I decide to have working anchors sometime in the future, they can be freed up quite easily.
Just a few photos here to finish this update....
Regards,
Ray.
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Another thought, P38 ( et al ) doesn't stick very well to ABS plastic, don't rely on it as a sealant. {:-{
If it 'breaks away', I've successfully glued ( and sealed ) it by sticking it back with thin Superglue.
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Another thought, P38 ( et al ) doesn't stick very well to ABS plastic, don't rely on it as a sealant. {:-{
If it 'breaks away', I've successfully glued ( and sealed ) it by sticking it back with thin Superglue.
...and that's another great bit of info stored away in the "ready use" locker - thanks Martin. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray just a piece of advice it is a big NO NO to wipe ANY form of filler down with warm water as filler is Porous and will hold in water.Gentle heat will get rid of any dampness in it.....as Martin has pointed out filler is a total waste of time to use with any plastic it simply wont stick to it properly.......I bet that before long with handling it will simply come off due to the hull flexing.....you would have been far better of using Stabalit Express epoxy or even Tiger seal to hold the bulkhead and batt tray in the hull.....Tiger seal is a flexible sealent used it he automotive industry
Dave
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Ray, that's great job your doing mate and im looking foreword to seeing the completed refurbish.
Were do you sail Ray/ may come up to see the relaunch?
regards
Mick
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Stavros - thank you for that advice, looks as though I'm going to have to strip the bulkhead and platform back out, get rid of the P38 and redo the job.
I don't suppose that, having sprayed the hull with primer, before using the P38, it would make any difference ?
Mick - I sail at Tynemouth boating lake. Judging by what I've done with the P38, it's going to be quite some time until the relaunch >>:-(
Regards,
Ray.
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Flex the hull and see if the filler breaks or peels away.
You can try the Superglue trick or here's a video of Tiger seal: https://youtu.be/h3BxJqf7FiI
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mark - i sail at salt-well park Gateshead must have a trip over to Tynemouth one week end.
regarding the p38 filler as stavros says it is not the best thing to use i use ready mixed fibreglass from the auto shop.
it is ready mixed glass strands and resin and just like p38 you add the hardener mix well and apply like p38.
regards
Mick
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Ray spraying the hull Before applying the filler is a BIG NO NO as the only thing the filler has to grip on s smooth paint a sure recipe for disaster....NOW the cure.....This is elementary dear Watson....to make life earier for yourself and THIS WILL save you a lot of work....Get hold of some Sticks like....you know what/Grip fill/Tiger seal....and simply run a good bead over what you have filled over ....obviously overlapping by a couple of MM ...This should eat into the paint enough to bond the bulkhead and the batt tray enough to prevent them coming off...This is what I WOULD DO .....Otheriwse it is a horrible job and you RISK damage to the hull by removing the filler
Dave
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Yes and obviously TEST ON SPRAP MATERIAL FIRST!
.... ABS can be a very peculiar material!
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Hi Ray,
I am with Stavros on the filler malarkey and have learnt from experience (BAD!) that you do not stick anything that you want a permanent fixture on directly to a painted surface. I have used very successfully either of the following- P40 which is a mix of glassfibre strands and gel or for the hull floor "Forever" clear silicone which sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. I use the P40 to seal both inside and outside of the bow thrusters I fit to my tugs and then smooth over with filler but as Stav says its not waterproof.
Re the silicone when I am siting my motors I try and fix the motor and mount to a wooden block of some sort then screw this down to the wooden hull base/floor with a bed of silicone under it, you can remove the motor from the silicone seal if you need to replace the motor and the silicone acts like a shock absorber against vibration. Whatever you do don't use cheap silicone from the pound shop its crap, Forever is a brand name and is very good stuff. Re the MDF being a chippie I know a fair bit about it and MDF and water do not mix its dust by the way is Carsenogenic you will be a lot safer with plywood seal every surface just in case. Hope this helps, keep up the good work and pic's.
Cheers,
Faz. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Everbuild FOREVERCLEAR Forever Clear Bathroom & Kitchen Silicone - Clear - 310m
http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-359180/everbuild-foreverclear-forever-clear.html?gclid=CKSx74WjwsgCFYmRGwodUfIIbQ
(http://richinnovationmarketing.com/images/Everbuild/Everbuild_Forever_Clear_Silicone_600.png)
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That's the one Martin, well done!
Cheers,
Faz. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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A BIG THANK YOU to all responders. I'm going to go with Stavros suggestion ref the sticks like.
Been away today so nothing else achieved. We'll have another crack at it tomorrow....
Regards,
Ray.
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http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-sticks-like-sh-t-290ml/22070
(http://media.builderdepot.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/l/0/l021224_b-01.jpg)
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Right-oh Thanks Martin - I'll get a tube or two tomorrow :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Bought the "sticky stuff" and slapped it on. Hull now set aside while the stuff goes off. In the meantime, the workshop was given a bit of a tidy up and a start made on getting the 2 x 540 motors cleaned up.
Regards,
Ray.
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Don't forget anything that is stuck or sealed with silicone cannot be overpainted. The paint just will not stick to silicone so use it sparingly and in areas that don;t require paint.
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A good point well made. Thanks for that Brian - I'll tread careful when paint is applied to the inner hull wooden bits. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray you were asking about lighting further down. Have a read of the word document I've included, it should help with what you need.
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Excellent !
Many thanks indeed Brian - I've just had a quick squint through the document and it appears to be a "jargon buster" so even I should be ok with that. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Continuing|:
The 540 motors were stripped and cleaned then new suppressors and leads soldered on.
Mount for the rudder servo made next. This was a lamination of 2 x 18mm blocks of plywood to attain height. The servo was then mounted, in it's own box, atop of the platform.
The new motor mounts arrived today, so motors, huco couplings and propshafts were lined up and guide marks penned for the motor mount locations.
Motors were then removed for ease of access and mounts screwed in place.
The whole lot was then reconnected and checked for alignment. Happy with that, so the motors were connected direct to a 6v battery, run for 1 minute, all ok.
While everything was lined up I took the opportunity to hit the proptubes with some epoxy resin.
The hull was set up at an angle so that the glue would fill the indentations in the hull, thus ensuring the tube entry holes were smothered. This also prevented any glue from entering the insides of the proptubes.
...here's a few photo's of the job to date....
Regards,
Ray.
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Forgot to mention - the reason for mounting the servo so high in the hull is to get a more or less horizontal run for the rudder actuating rod. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I would not have rated this an important feature. As long as the rod is parallel to the stern, the slight angle over a long length would not really have a bearing on the working ability.
The disadvantage of your idea is that the balance of the craft might get top heavy.
Just a thought.
ken
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With the greatest respect Ken, it really is all about geometry
Whilst it is difficult to judge from the photo images from Ray, it appears possible that the servo if mounted lower in the hull would appear fine with the linkage AFT to the rudder arms in the straight ahead position, however when at full to port or stdb, the linkage rod may foul on the spider in the rudder arm setup
A straight push/pull motion is cosmetically if not superior from a technical point of design. It is also far easier to constrain the off axis longitudinal motion of a push rod it we were considering one plane only ......so my money is certainly with the higher servo mounting :-))..... Derek
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I agree with having the servo as near to level with the rudder arm as possible and I would move the servo further back nearer the stern shortening the length of the connecting rod meaning less flex and being shorter will be more rigid. The servo on my Norton cross (metal geared high torque and quite heavy) is level with the rudder arm and this does not affect the ballast just make sure that the ballast is as low in the hull as possible. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Faz. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Just caught the sorry tale of the vandalism(?) of your lovely Tug and the pheonix like ressurection back to her original glory. You are a bigger man for not accidentally letting the currs car tyres down or worse, and demonstrating real accomplishment by working hard (a second time) to get your Tug back to the water.
I know we all have different skill levels, and some are put off (both jokingly and actually) by a great build, but you have a be a bit inadequate to even think of damaging someone elses model.
I assume this is what hapened reading between the lines?
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I have just looked again at the picture. There appears to be two rudders but with no linkage between them.
How is a centre driven push/pull mechanism going to operate without fouling the link between the two arms unless you move the link to the back ? I would have fitted the servo parallel to one side rudder and then linked across to the other rudder.
ken
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Looking at the geometry of the rudder linkage it would be better if the right hand rudder horn was rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise. This will give a straighter link with less of an angle. If you are concerned about the connection between the rudders clashing with the pushrod then use ball links on the linkages.
http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Ball-Links.html (http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Ball-Links.html)
Fit one linkage above the rudder horn and the other below the horn, this will give enough clearance to stop any problems.
Jim
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Evening all - thank you all very much indeed for your input.
Jim - your idea of the 90deg move sounds like a winner, I'll give it a try next time I'm in the workshop.
Kenny - I've removed the temporary linkage between the 2 rudders as I kept catching it while working (it's there in reply no.26 & 27) O0 . My original setup did have the servo where it is now but lower down. Note: this hull sits so low in the water that the servo "tower" won't have any significant effect on stability.
It should also be noted at this point that the "tower" is not yet fixed in place - I just put it there for effect. {-) , although I do intend to secure it there.
Also, ref moving the linkage to the back, this is still an option.
Ian - On reflection, I guess there wasn't enough room on the display table for his model, so probably gave mine a "little shove" to make room.
Oh yes, I was absolutely livid at the time, but revenge would not have achieved anything. Lesson learned on my part - NEVER let your model out of your site <*< .
Derek - you are right. The photos I put up are a bit misleading - maybe for the next lot I can stand one or two items in to give a clearer perspective.
Once again guys, thank you for taking the time to give me your pearls of wisdom :-))
I'll come back when I've had a bit play about with the linkages etc...
Regards,
Ray.
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%) People eh?
As regards this forum, I am always amazed at the generosity and wisdom of the membership. I feel cheeky asking sometimes. I suppose the only way you can repay such help is to try and reciprocate.
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Settled for JimG idea of the 90 deg rotation.
So, a new pushrod was made and fitted. This will be a temporary rod until I can find something more suitable. Made it from a spare wall tie I had lying around. Had a bit of difficulty trying to straighten it out and as can be seen it has a number of kinks in it - but it does work, so that'll do for now.
Then, all the running components were "jury rigged", mainly to ensure the ESC still works - it does - not bad, considering I've had it for 18 years.
Here's a couple of photos...
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The next step was to glue the rudder servo in place so, the tower was glued in using "sticky stuff" and left to harden off overnight.
The old platform for the electricals was given a good sanding down and positioned. Some scrap balsa was then used to create slots for the frame to sit in. The platform, which is a slide fit to the frame, can be lifted clear and, if necessary, the frame itself just lifts out of the hull, should any future changes be required.
A further set of slots was then installed to hold the battery in place - in this model I'm using a 6v/5Ah/20hr battery.
More to follow...
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Now to tidy up the electrics...
Removed all 3 tamiya plugs. Pos and Neg from the motors routed into the frame and up through the top.
All leads from the ESC terminated to choc-block.
The on/off switch is routed through the for'd bulkhead, temp soldered joints, they will be joined properly when the deck goes on as the switch itself will be sighted on the foredeck.
Test run carried out on the bench and all functioning correctly.
More to follow...
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So now the moment of truth has arrived - is she watertight ?
Bath test carried out and all systems working correctly - BUT - water was trickling in at the proptube entry points. <:(
Back to the bench, dried her off, applied more epoxy resin, this time on the outside. Now the hull has been set aside to harden off.
While that's going on attention turns to the main deck.
The first of the 69 bulwark support locating holes was cut out then the corresponding support was brought into the workshop (from it's safe location).
Using this as a template, a new one was fashioned from 2mm plastic. Sounds easy but it took 2hrs to make. I was going to use 2mm ply, as per the original, but I've none left in stock. {:-{
I'll continue with the plasticard but I'll get some ply next week in case things go awry. :-))
Last couple of photos for now...
Regards,
Ray.
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Very tidy job all round there!!! :-)) Bit of a bummer about the prop tubes - are you sure the water isn't actually coming up around the shaft itself? Have you oiled them yet?
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Thank you Carl - yep, I gave the shafts a coating of silicone grease initially then followed up with light oil.
To be honest, I wasn't watching the inside at first - too busy admiring the turbulence at the stern. {-)
However, after I stopped the motors, I could see the water seeping through under the epoxy. Perhaps I've gotten a drop of oil in the indents of the hull and obviously the epoxy can't seal that. %)
Regards,
Ray.
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So, another bath test was carried out and she's STILL taking in water. Further checks done on the bench and found that the solder joints, on the oiling tubes, had gaps.
Found these gaps by shining a torch into the tubes. Didn't fancy trying to resolder near the ABS hull so the oiling tubes were wrenched free.
Now, I needed to find a way to seal the holes in the proptubes - couldn't come up with a viable solution so instead I cyanoed clear tubing over the holes and plugged the tops. Then, Evo-stick "wet grab" was smeared around the tubing. This stuff is described as waterproof - we'll see....
Now had another 24hr wait for the next test. In the meantime it's back to the bulwark supports.
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Did another bath test this evening - STILL LEAKING. {:-{
...and now for some humble pie...
are you sure the water isn't actually coming up around the shaft itself? Have you oiled them yet?
Carl - you were right all along. Yes, I had applied silicone grease to the shaft, but only a smear. :embarrassed:
Right-oh then - back to the bench, shafts removed, high melting point grease syringed into the proptubes, reassembled the shafts & props - fourth bath test carried out - BINGO - after 45 mins running she remained dry. :-))
So, finally the penny dropped, now to get back to the bulwark supports - I've only made 9 so far, 60 to go....
Hoping to have some progress to report in a few days... %)
Regards,
Ray.
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Found someone else building a Neddy, on facebook!
https://www.facebook.com/kees.demol.16?fref=photo
https://www.facebook.com/groups/42710318369/permalink/10153370879568370/
(http://i.imgbox.com/IfEiHqka.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/IfEiHqka)
(http://i.imgbox.com/MfmnDHQQ.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/MfmnDHQQ)
(http://i.imgbox.com/S95eqADf.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/S95eqADf)
(http://i.imgbox.com/76Pu8dPc.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/76Pu8dPc)
(http://i.imgbox.com/QGPZxfWR.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/QGPZxfWR)
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Guys......I am sure we have some build detail here in our MBM files from this same Dutch model builder Mr Kees de Mol
Again from memory, his work was top class :-))
Derek
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That's quite impressive - never thought of mounting the rudder servo that way.
Things are moving along rather slowly just now - in fact I've just completed bulwark support no. 36, so still have 33 to make - I'm also trying to spend less time on-line as it is getting in the way of actual modelling work.
Another update will follow sometime over the weekend.
Regards,
Ray.
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Another update will follow sometime over the weekend.
...didn't say which weekend though. {-)
So, FINALLY got all 69 bulwark supports made.
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During this process, each support, both old and new, was numbered.
Now, the old ones were gathered up and bagged, just in case any are needed for templates in case of loss or damage to the new ones.
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The new ones have been transferred back to the old deck, for safe keeping, then taken inside until needed.
The next step was to make channels on the underside of the main deck for the "flush deck" to land on.
These were glued in place and the original underdeck frame test fitted between the channels - fits like a glove thankfully.
Then needed to work out how to fit the flush deck piece to the underframe...
So, the channels were carefully measured and the results transferred to the underside of the deck piece.
Because the under frame has a sheer, to conform to the main deck, it was then necessary to use clamps to hold it all in place until the glue hardened off.
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After a couple of hours the clamps were removed and the deck piece started to come away from the frame. >:-o
More glue was applied and this time the unit was positioned the right way up and loads of weights added.
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This was then left overnight to dry off.
Now the deck piece complete with frame was tried for fit. After some minor fettling it sits in place nicely. (forgot to photograph this before the next operation).
Another problem, which had been pointed out earlier, became apparent - the rear portion of the underdeck frame was catching on the rudder operating rod. :embarrassed:
So, by mounting the ball and socket, on the tiller arm, upside down, we have a clearance of 4mm.
My thanks to JimG for that idea. :-))
Now all the running gear was taken out and a start made on painting the wooden parts within the hull.
The first coat of primer has been applied and the hull brought indoors to dry.
Couple of photo's....
Regards,
Ray.
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Glad you managed to sort the leaky shafts in the end Ray - bloody frustrating when it happens at the time though!!! :-))
Otherwise, tidy bit of work here O0 . Nice to see Neddy coming back to standard.
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Thank you Carl, hope I can do the model justice in the end.
While the paint is drying I'm rubbing down the bulwarks to prepare them as templates.
Regards,
Ray.
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Small update....
The 2nd coat of primer, followed by 2 coats of Humbrol matt white were applied.
In between coats the access hatch has been cut from the deck piece and the old bulwarks cleaned up ready to be used as templates.
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The bow and stern fendering has also been cleaned up and will be reused.
The fendering is actually an old toothed belt from a car engine - this was turned toothside out - quite difficult to get it to go opposite to it's original shape all those years ago but, since removal from the model, it has retained the inside out shape - that's a blessing in disguise!
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On / off toggle switch made up and installed on the foredeck.
All running gear reinstalled and tested - all ok.
Main deck glued on, using 30 min epoxy, then taped up and left to dry for 24hrs.
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This evenings session was spent removing all the tape and doing a little bit of sanding where the deck was showing above the hull top.
Then the 2 anchor hawse holes on the foredeck where drill out and that's where we are now.
Note: I've had to spend a number of hours getting my laptop up and running again due to hacker attacks. I've been telling myself for months now -"do a back up, do a back up" - nope, didn't bother and now I've lost every single document and photo that were saved to the harddrive - blinking infuriating >:-o
....ok, lesson learned.
Here's a photo of the boat to date.
Regards,
Ray.
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Another small update now...
The pieces of old bulwarks were used as templates and drawn onto cereal packet card, then tracings made, ready for transfer to 2mm birch ply.
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Parts were traced onto the ply then cut out near the lines (remembered to change the Stanley knife blade this time). Managed to cut out the bow section ready for sanding. At this point it became apparent that shaky hand stanley knife is not a good combination to have.
So, decided it was time to put a new blade in the bandsaw. Been meaning to do this for over a year, now it became a "must-do".
With the new blade installed, the remaining parts were cut out, again cutting about 1.5 - 2mm outside the marked lines and all were sanded down to the marks.
Pilot holes were then drilled in the bulwarks as markers for the brass eyelets which accommodate the ropes for the tyre fenders.
There a 6 "jointing" or backing boards to be attached, between 2 bulwark supports each, so these were tackled first.
Once these were glued on, the bulwark for the Port quarter was dry fitted and clamped in place while minor adjustments were made to a few of the supports.
Once happy, the supports were glued into position then the bulwark was epoxied and clamped until glue hardened off.
The bulwark wasn't an exact fit and so will require fettling later.
Incidentally, the birch ply (2mm) which was acquired through Cornwall Model Boats, has excellent plyability and requires no soaking / steaming etc, just gentle manipulation and curves nicely around the supports.
The long section of bulwark for the Port side was then fitted in much the same way as the Port quarter but using 30 min epoxy for the extra time needed to get it into position. The clamps will be left in place overnight.
Looking at the model from a distance, I can see that some of the supports on the Stbd side are too far inboard so will have to be moved out over.
Guess my marking out wasn't very accurate. {:-{
Anyway, here's a couple of photo's....
Regards,
Ray.
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your making a grand job Ray :-))
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your making a grand job Ray :-))
Cheers Brian - I'll send you a PM sometime tomorrow.....
Back to the build then:-
The bulwark supports on the Stbd side have been relocated and glued on, followed by the Stbd quarter and side pieces. While the glue was drying out the excess glue on the Port side was cleaned up. Never one for skimping on adhesives, most of my work, be it boats, D-I-Y or whatever, always needs extra work to clear up.
Finally, the bow piece has been fitted...
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A bit of filling and sanding was then required to finish the job off.
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The 5 hawse holes in the bulwarks were drilled/filed to size and shape then the original rims epoxied in place - glad I didn't need to remake those...
Then 48 holes were opened up to take the eyelets, for the ropes, for the rubber tyre fenders along the sides of the hull.
The eyelets were a tight push fit but each was secured with a drop of cyano - "just in case".
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Next the stern rubber fendering was epoxy glued in place - same for the bow - then left overnight to harden off.
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Finally, the capping rail was trial fitted - this is simply a length of rubber outer sheathing from an electrical cable, sliced along it's length.
This stuff retains it's original shape and therefore grips the tops of the bulwarks. It's not glued on at present but will be tacked into place every few inches.
As can be seen in the photo it wasn't quite long enough to meet at the after end, so a piece of tubing was pressed into service and will blend in when the hull gets sprayed.
So, until we are blessed with good weather, that's all that can be done with the hull.
Now to sort out the deck fittings and superstructure.....
Regards,
Ray.
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Still following this one Ray, looking good, I like the use of every day items to fill in for bits on the boat, the fender around my pilot boat is upvc window gasket, nice work Ray. :-))
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I like the idea of using cable sheathing was it rubber or plastic and what diameter was it, how did you cut it straight? Keep up the good work.
Cheers,
Faz. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Still following this one Ray, looking good, I like the use of every day items to fill in for bits on the boat, the fender around my pilot boat is upvc window gasket, nice work Ray. :-))
Thanks Joe. I used a broken belt from a tumble drier as fendering on my Pilot Boat (Layla).
I like the idea of using cable sheathing was it rubber or plastic and what diameter was it, how did you cut it straight? Keep up the good work.
Cheers,
Faz. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Hi Faz, the cable sheathing is some sort of rubber. Not sure of the diameter, I have however, managed to find some feint marking on it: TA HSING 2.5C - 2v
Hope this is of some help to you - there might be someone on here who can decipher that marking?
For the cutting of it, I must confess I tried to cut it straight but it kept twisting. So it ended up in a very curvy line. Patience was required and I did end up with one continuous cut - just not straight. When pushed over the bulwarks it was just a matter of untwisting a bit at a time.
Hope this makes sense.
Regards,
Ray.
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Easy to cut in straight line with the right technique!
Screw on end to the bench, pull taught but not stretched, screw the other end down. Then using a straight edge on the cable, make your cut, Simples!
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Easier said than done Brian! <*<
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Brian's idea sounds logical however, it's the wires within the cable that tend to take the blade off the desired cutting line, this being due to the fact that the inner core is never laid in straight lines.
Another way perhaps, would be to make a small incision at one end, peel the sheathing back, put that end in a vice then use pliers to peel away the remainder, cutting as you go.
I'll try that sometime....
Regards,
Ray.
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The art of my technique is not to cut right through to the base wires or they will deflect the blade, keep the cut shallow just brushing them. Only 3 core cable is twisted inside the outer sheath, two core is not.
depending on how long a length you need, you can as podge says, clamp one end of the inner wires in a vice (make sure it is securely bolted to something heavy! Then instead of peeling it back over itself, just pull the outer sheath from the other end, slowly but with pressure, it will stretch, before it tears apart. leave it, then go to the other end and wiggle the sheath towards the unclamped end. Several repeats of this and you should get the outer sheath of the inner wires.
I have done both in the past and both work, the latter takes a lot to time and effort though and is not always successful
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Best of both.
Cut along length halfway through.
AKA Brian's way.
Then place in vice and peel back.
AKA Brian's other way.
Ned
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If you cut away just enough of the outer sheath to grip the inner wires in a vice you can then pull the outer sheath and the inner wires cut through the outer sheath as you pull. I use this method when I need single strands of inner wire. The outer sheath will not have a smooth line as a blade would make but once fitted glued and painted you don't see it.
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Would this sort of stuff work - save all of the hassle?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-BLACK-Rubber-U-Channel-Edging-Trim-Seal-6mm-x-3mm-from-The-Metal-House-/111756249787?hash=item1a05310abb:g:UsIAAOSw3xJVbgzX
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Thank you for the link Mark - wish I'd seen it earlier, I've glued the capping on now.
Never mind, it'll be a while before my next update - computer issues again - I'm using SWMBO'S laptop at the moment.
(for some reason Youtube is just showing a solid green screen when I try to view the video clips :(()
Regards,
Ray.
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Thank you for the link Mark - wish I'd seen it earlier, I've glued the capping on now.
Never mind, it'll be a while before my next update - computer issues again - I'm using SWMBO'S laptop at the moment.
(for some reason Youtube is just showing a solid green screen when I try to view the video clips :(( )
Regards,
Ray.
Try updating the Adobe Flash Player drivers, that is most likely the cause. Each time they release an update I get similar problems with Youtube.
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oh - my - god ...
You are showing the life span of my "Neddie" far beyond completing my build, which I only just started. Seeing, what water does to the boat, possibility of wreckage even when out of the pond. I think I would just have cried and cried...
I admire your insistence and ambition!
Applauds!
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Hi Hande, Hope my efforts don't effect your enthusiasm for the job.
For others that are following this thread - I hope to have a little bit of an update sometime tomorrow.
Regards,
Ray.
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hi ray look foreword to your update mate :-))
and im still following with interest ok2
regards mick
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Not at all. On the contrary - I regret, I waited 40 years to come back to my hobby. Model Boat Mayhem brings it to a higher sphere.
Model building _is_ a thing in Finland, but e.g. shows and events are growing smaller and smaller and being pushed to margins. It is a country of only 5 million - the population base does not grow too many hobbyists in any trade.
If ever I travel to the UK, how does it work, would it be possible to turn up in a club or an event just to drool over your models and the activities and facilities ;-) ? Or is it "members only"?
I am following your rebuild. Fascinating to see, how it's done the hard way.
Hi Hande, Hope my efforts don't effect your enthusiasm for the job.
Regards,
Ray.
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Is the isolated compartment in the bow for the radio? If so - do you have a copper plate or other means of insulation towards the ESC?
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Do you feel the Billings ABS hull does well without reinforcement by glassfibre. I hate the chemicals that go with applying glassfibre and I'd rather not do.
I can see that you applied epoxy(?) around the sole plate in the bottom. That should already make the hull more rigid?
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It is interesting, how Billings have modified the kit in different years.
I don't know what year's model my "Neddie" is, but it came with the BB528(S.N.) extras - including the bulwark rail cap, which is more or less exactly the stuff from the ebay-link.
(As for rudders, the extras didn't include complete rudders, but they had to be built from 26 acrylic pieces, each.)
Would this sort of stuff work - save all of the hassle?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-BLACK-Rubber-U-Channel-Edging-Trim-Seal-6mm-x-3mm-from-The-Metal-House-/111756249787?hash=item1a05310abb:g:UsIAAOSw3xJVbgzX (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-BLACK-Rubber-U-Channel-Edging-Trim-Seal-6mm-x-3mm-from-The-Metal-House-/111756249787?hash=item1a05310abb:g:UsIAAOSw3xJVbgzX)
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Your post #78 has a photo of the inside of the hull.
At the inside end of the propeller shaft tubes it looks like lubrication hose. Am I right?
If they are for lubrication, how is the hose connected to the shaft tube? Have you made a branch?
That would be clever.
For lubrication and for keeping water out I would prefer a thick vaseline that would stay in the tube for many times of running. Applying a lubricant through a hose requires a pretty fluid lubricant, which doesn't stay for long. A tradeoff, to be sure.
So far, I have thought that as a matter of regular maintenance, the propeller shafts should be taken out and lubricant applied - may be from both ends. I have wondered how the shafts come out with the rudders in the way. Not a good idea to bend the rudders sidewards to allow the shaft to come out.
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hi ray look foreword to your update mate :-))
and im still following with interest ok2
regards mick
Update coming shortly Mick :-))
Is the isolated compartment in the bow for the radio? If so - do you have a copper plate or other means of insulation towards the ESC?
There is no radio gear in the for'd section - the bulwark was made just to assist with hull rigidity.
Your post #78 has a photo of the inside of the hull.
At the inside end of the propeller shaft tubes it looks like lubrication hose. Am I right?
If they are for lubrication, how is the hose connected to the shaft tube? Have you made a branch?
That would be clever.
For lubrication and for keeping water out I would prefer a thick vaseline that would stay in the tube for many times of running. Applying a lubricant through a hose requires a pretty fluid lubricant, which doesn't stay for long. A tradeoff, to be sure.
So far, I have thought that as a matter of regular maintenance, the propeller shafts should be taken out and lubricant applied - may be from both ends. I have wondered how the shafts come out with the rudders in the way. Not a good idea to bend the rudders sidewards to allow the shaft to come out.
I had a problem with the "oil tube" leaking so just resorted to using the lubrication tubing. The proptubes are well packed with grease now but, if I need to add more grease in future, it will just be syringed into the tubes.
For shaft removal I just take off the propellors, remove the motors and pull the shafts into the hull.
Regards,
Ray.
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After giving it a bit of thought I've decided to make the main superstructure removable, mainly for access for battery changes, without the necessity of lifting the whole inner deck off.
So, to that end, a strip of 1cm x 1cm balsa was cut to size and epoxied to the underside of the opening. This gives me a 13mm deep area for gluing the coaming to.
The inner coaming was then made up and glued on.
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Used cling film for a glue barrier whilst making up the outer coaming.
While that was setting, an "emergency equipment" box was then make and screwed to the foredeck, to hide (and protect) the main on/off switch. Completed this with a lid which incorporates a "no-loss" safety chain.
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Interesting ideas Cap'n. I like the use of an old Vee Belt as it doubles as a real fender with its rubbery properties and has the detailalready in place.
Genuis:O)
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Next, a platform was made to fit over the outer coaming to give it rigidity.
Of the four pieces that make up the lower superstructure, only the aftmost bulkhead is straight, the other 3 sections need to have a curve induced. So, to that end, formers needed to be made for the sides and front to follow. The formers were produced in the original kit but I couldn't save them for this rebuild.
Side formers and spacers were made up, along with the front one and one for the back and then all plaswelded together - now, the access hatch can be lifted in one movement.
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Interesting ideas Cap'n. I like the use of an old Vee Belt as it doubles as a real fender with its rubbery properties and has the detailalready in place.
Genuis:O)
Thanks Ian, the original kit came with a strip of wood with 2 chamfered edges. The strip had to then be cut into little pieces of varying sizes and glued in place one at a time. I just couldn't get it right and so opted for the vee belt.
Regards,
Ray.
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Decided at this point to add some extra uprights to the formers to help maintain the shape of the superstructure.
Now, the rear bulkhead was cut to size and the 2 louvre vent frames made. The slats of the louvres were then superglued in at an angle to suggest being partially opened.
The completed vents were then welded to the bulkhead, and the bulkhead then welded in place.
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Next, the Stbd bulkhead was cut to size, and decksheer, then 0.5mm pilot holes drilled for the handrails - there's also a porthole on this side so this was marked, drilled and reamed and the brass ring press fitted into place. It's easier to fit now rather than when the whole structure is tied together - it will still need "glazing" but access should be ok from underneath.
The Port bulkhead was then completed in the same way but 3 portholes needed fitting this time.
So, now came the welding in place of the whole.
Just as an added bonus - when it comes to painting the main deck, the whole superstructure can be lifted clear therefore, no need for masking up !
The original for'd bulkhead was made up of 3 parts but I've just made it in 1 section around the former.
The upper, or wheelhouse deck, was then made using a 2mm and 1mm plasticard lamination for added rigidity.
Got the shape by laying the lamination upside down on the workbench and then inverted the superstructure onto it and marked it off with a pencil.
The deck was then trimmed to the lines and welded in place, first of all from the inside of the structure. This prevented any unwanted movement then the plasweld was applied again on the outside.
The structure was then put aside, ready for final trimming later.
Meanwhile, a start was made on preparing some of the original deck fittings, some need touching up, others will go straight back in place, (once the paint spraying has been done) but this time they will be pinned and glued.
With final trimming of the lower structure now completed, I could concentrate on getting the steps made up.
First off. the inboard side piece, for the Port side, was made using the original as a template. This was followed by the 3 backing boards which were welded into place.
Happy with that, so the steps were tackled next.
Now for the Stbd side.
This first photo shows the Port side steps done and a start made on the Stbd side.
The other photos show some of the main deck fittings in place - they are just pinned on and will be removed for the paint process.
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Having completed the Stbd stairs, attention turned to sorting the fittings for the removable portion of the main deck.
The 2 for'd warp guides are pinned to the lower superstructure and double up as "lifting points" when superstructure removal is required.
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All fittings were then removed and stored on sheets of dense foam.
Now came one of those "drop a clanger" moments - found a length of "u" channel plastic which I thought would look better than the rubber sheath (for the coamings) and would be a good tight fit.
So, a portion of the rubber was removed and the plastic tried - too tight, so thought I could soften it in the oven.
After 5 mins the plastic was taken out and tried for fit on the bulwark. The heat had the opposite effect to what I was after and had turned the plastic brittle, so it just disintegrated when I tried to push it onto the bulwark.
Now, I've got a repair job to do, to get the rubber back on.
Next time I get a "bright idea" I'll test it on scrap first ! >:-o
OK then, because the weather still precludes any paint spraying I'll carry on with making up replacement fittings for the superstructure. First up then, are the liferaft cradles.
These are made from 7 parts each. I've made them in plasticard, mainly for the ease and neatness of welding together and attaching to the Port & Stbd bulkheads.
Here's a photo of them ready for mounting.
....and now we're up to date. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Superb stuff Capt, I love the details....... Especially the winch. :-))
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looking great ray the detail work is superb mate love the winch would look nice on one of my boats lol {-)
keep the updates coming. :-))
regards Mick
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Next up for the lower superstructure are the doors - there are four inner doors and four outer doors with dog clips. Two of the outer doors also have a viewing port. I think the inner doors are meant to represent the frames that the doors would be mounted on.
Anyway, the doors have now been made. Used the originals, clamped to my new ones, as a guide to drill the holes for the dog clips.
The old clips are still ok so I've set them aside, on masking tape, until the painting is done.
The next dilemma is the drip canopies above the doors - what to make them from and how to attach them ? - opted for using the original brass strip, just a case of scraping the old paint off, cyanoed 2 mild steel pins to each one, job done.
Now for the Nav lamp boxes. These are made from 5 separate parts, a bit fiddly but got there in the end.
Another bit of fiddly work is the vent covers x 2 for each side.
These were made from scrap bits of plasticard, rather awkward to get the corners rounded off but managed ok.
Grab rails next. These are already soldered up and painted so just needed to make sure they lined up ok with the holes I'd drilled earlier.
Last of all, holes drilled for ships bell and for'd bull horn.
So, the doors, canopies and vent covers were welded in place - remainder removed until after paint jobs.
(sorry, no photo's taken - I'll get some shots next time I'm in the workshop)
Now I needed to buy another sheet of 2mm plasticard - the scraps I've got in stock are not of sufficient dimension for the next part of the build - the wheelhouse.
Off we went and picked up a full sheet (2 metre HIPS) the cost of which, inc vat = £8.95 which I think is reasonable.
Made a start with cutting a piece for the wheelhouse floor. I'm using the old fittings for internals therefore needed to mark out the positions then mask off ready for painting...now comes another awkward part - stripping out the window glass and frames in order to get accurate templates.
Started with the rear bulkhead and used a blunt jewellers screwdriver to tease the acetate windows away. These all came away with gentle persuasion followed by rubbing off old glue with the MK1 thumbnail.
There was no way of getting the old frames out intact so they were broken out in bits and the remnants filed away from the cut outs.
So far, so good.
Now, the old bulkhead was clamped to the plastic sheet and the shapes pencilled in.
Next, holes were drilled in each of the window frame corners then joined using the Stanley knife. Each corner was then joined diagonally to aid removal.
While trying to manipulate the pieces out I found that the motion caused the plastic to split beyond the window aperture - so, that went into the scrap bin. I've used this method before but that was on thinner plastic which could be cut right through in just a few passes of the knife.
Back to square one we go...
Having marked the new piece, the chain drilling method was used and the centres cut away - now it was down to some slow, laborious filing to final shape.
Got that bit finished eventually - 2 evening sessions !
Stbd side piece was next, again using the chain drilling method - while doing this, a thought occurred to me, what if someone reading this doesn't know what chain drilling is ? (I'd heard the term many a time but, until my middle age, I didn't know what it was)
So, to clarify, I've included a few photographs "just in case".
......and now we're up to date.
Regards,
Ray.
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One thing I forgot to mention - a great tip from our Forum member BLUEBIRD - when marking out, go over the lines again with a byro. It's surprising how quickly pencil marks disappear from plastic through constant handling. O0 :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Lead on Captain!
I am following _keenly_ :-)
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looking great ray :-))
you have come on a long way with this build mate an it is looking fantastic.
let me know when she is ready for sea trials and i will pop over to watch her maiden O0
regards
Mick
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Lead on Captain!
I am following _keenly_ :-)
Don't get too close, you will spot my mistakes. {-)
looking great ray :-))
you have come on a long way with this build mate an it is looking fantastic.
let me know when she is ready for sea trials and i will pop over to watch her maiden O0
regards
Mick
Thanks Mick, we're a long way off yet but every little bit takes us a step closer.
Regards,
Ray.
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Excellent work Ray! I do the same thing when cutting apetures out of 1.5-2mm plastic, but carve almost all the excess teeth away before filing. I find it saves a few minutes especialy with a nice sharp blade. I make sanding sticks out of a piece of shaped blind slat with abrasive paper stuck on with double sided tape; coarse one side and fine the other. Good sharp files are best for round corners though.
The winch caught my eye as well :-))
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Thanks Ian, I've actually done the same thing with the abrasive/double sided tape thing - that was another tip picked up from BLUEBIRD.
Regards,
Ray.
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He's a clever clogs :-)
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I first heard of chain drilling as an apprentice it's how we were taught to cut out the letter boxes on front doors, remember, %% when they were made of wood %)
Nice work Ray. :-))
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Thanks Joe - hoping to get into the workshop again this evening but it's blinkin' freezing cold. :o
Regards,
Ray.
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One thing I forgot to mention - a great tip from our Forum member BLUEBIRD - when marking out, go over the lines again with a byro. It's surprising how quickly pencil marks disappear from plastic through constant handling. O0 :-))
Regards,
Ray.
These pens are useful for marking out:-
http://www.edding.com/professional-marking/products/specialist-markers/edding-8404-aerospace-marker/
dont user them to write a note on your hand tho.... takes ages to wear off
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Back to where we left off.........
The Port side piece was then completed in the same manner.
Now, all 3 parts were lined up around the floor section and welded up. The structure was not however, welded to the floor because that still needs painting....and just as well I didn't secure it to the floor - remembered just in time, window frames!! - it'll be far easier to put those in with the bulkheads lying flat.
Had just about enough time to get the 3 of them apart, so minor disaster averted.
Right then, let's get on with that - or so I thought.
Wrong again, the strips I thought I had can't be found just now....
Meanwhile, it was a case of carry on cutting window apertures - this time the upper windows for the skipper to see above him.
Next came the upper support, which prevents the bulkheads from leaning inwards, also provides a gluing platform for those upper windows, which have to be angled in-over.
Now to the front of the wheelhouse.
3 lower panels, 3 main windows and 3 upper windows. After a lot of marking out, removal and cleaning of window acetate, sanding and filing I finally have the main components of the wheelhouse structure.
Not included in the following picture are the wheelhouse roof and floor.
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....and now I've got the plastic strip for the window frames. Couldn't find the old stuff so ordered some more which arrived this morning.
Hoping to make a start on that tomorrow....
(hope it gets warmer soon - the hull could do with a lick of paint)
Regards,
Ray.
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And I bet you lost the strip because you had a tidy up {:-{ The moment you finish that part of the job you will find the bleeders.
Looking good though.
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And I bet you lost the strip because you had a tidy up {:-{ The moment you finish that part of the job you will find the bleeders.
Looking good though.
Thanks Ian.
I know that I have not thrown the strips out - that would be sacrilege.
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray, where were they the last time you saw them. %) %) {-)
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Ray, where were they the last time you saw them. %) %) {-)
{-) {-) {-)
that made me laugh - SWMBO thought I'd been on the whiskey when she heard me - cheers (hic) Joe :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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It happens to us all Ray. Iost my pullover whilst on a walk last weekend. On walking the route again yesterday morning to see if it was stuck in a muddy hole somewhere, I found it neatly folded on a gate!
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Onto the next task then - fitting the window frames.
The strips, 4 to each aperture, were cut to size and secured with PlasWeld - a total of 116 individual pieces.
Here's a couple of shots of the completed frames...
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....and, at long last, the wheelhouse structure was put together and just needed a bit of sanding/filing here and there to tidy it up.
(The first photo shows one side going on - I put the structure together upside down, built around the upper support.)
The wheelhouse floor I'd made earlier was no good - measurements taken in haste - so had to make another this evening.
Here's a few photos of the structure, including one of wheelhouse on the model - it has just been stood in place for effect, not yet attached...
Regards,
Ray.
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great work ray the boat is looking very nice and you have made a fantastic job
of the wheel house mate :-))
keep up the good work ok2 look foreword to your next up date
regards
Mick
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You've done a lovely job on that wheelhouse Ray, you could have got away without the window strips but they were worth all the effort it's detailing like that that make all the difference. :-))
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Thank you for your encouraging comments Gents.
I did think about leaving out the window frames as they are rather fiddly to handle but, on the other hand, they help to hide any minor defects when the "weld" comes together. ;). Defects would be highlighted when the "glass" goes in... %)
Regards,
Ray.
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hi there Ray, well hello
It is coming along nicely this reconstruction of yours. As far as covering up sins is concerned - have you tried - and you possibly have. A product called perfect plastic putty by Deluxe - this has covered many of my 'sins' when I am working with Plasticard. The other trick I sometimes use comes from an old friend's stable - of things. You know my good old friend Bryan Young - well his trick is to get a bottle of Humbrol liquid poly and put little offcuts in the bottle to form a gel - a plastic weld gel - which he used to paint onto areas that he wanted correcting. This actually works quite well - the bits of offcut are tiny mind you. Only drawback with this is it takes a bit of time for it to harden up. Just a couple of thoughts my friend and a picture....just testing me new camera
john
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Beautiful workmanship, Capt!
You are my hero!
I am just starting with my Neddie superstructure - with original plywood parts of Billings.
I am dreading the possible curvatures, splits and what-have-yous that I have already encountered with Billings-quality plywood.
I have the coaming in place for the removable superstructure, and I noticed immediately that as the deck is curved, it is not obvious, what is "vertical" for the superstructure basement to fit properly on the coaming. Causes me headache!
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She's coming on a treat Cap'n! I think the strips do make the bridge, lovely.
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Hello Captain!
What is your take on the motors for your Neddie?
Or more accurately:
What do you think about my plan:
- 12V
- 540
- 6:1 gearbox
Component shop gives these figures: 2633 r/min, 2,85A, 21,2W
Alternative: 545-12 advertised by Electronize
I'm not planning to participate in towing competitions (like there were any in Finland...)
You may know if the amps are stall current amps (I'm guessing not)..?
I was thinking of going brushless, but I cannot find local peer support for that. So even if it is becoming old-fashioned, I think brush is good!
Hande
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Oh... and as it is pertinent to the choice of motor:
The Neddie has Kort nozzles.
The full-size Smit Nederland and her sister vessels have controllable pitch 4-blade propellers. NOT fixed pitch Kort propellers.
So, there's a choice to be made.
After measuring the nozzles, I concluded the propellers should be 54mm in dia.
What kind of propellers are you planning to use?
(celebrate with me - my 100th post :} )
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As far as covering up sins is concerned - have you tried - and you possibly have. A product called perfect plastic putty by Deluxe - this has covered many of my 'sins' when I am working with Plasticard.
john
I have seen that stuff but never tried it - one for the future methinks.
I've used a similar trick to B.Y. but just take a sliver of scrap plastic, place it in the gap, then give it a good brushfull of Plasweld and literally melt the scrap into the gap.
If its a tiny gap then I just use a file to create some plastic dust over the area and blend in with the Plasweld. ;)
Regards,
Ray.
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Hello Captain!
What is your take on the motors for your Neddie?
Hande
Hi Hande.
I'm just using 2 x 540 motors with direct drive - my model won't be used for towing competitions (maybe just a barge or two) so there's no real need for anything more powerful.
What kind of propellers are you planning to use?
(celebrate with me - my 100th post :}
I'm just using the props that came with the original kit. :}
...and congratulations on reaching the 100 postings milestone. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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She's coming on a treat Cap'n! I think the strips do make the bridge, lovely.
Thank you Ian.
The wheelhouse contains 134 individual parts (each window having 4 strips), and the doors and internals have yet to be added. :o
Regards,
Ray.
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Hello Captain!
What is your take on the motors for your Neddie?
Or more accurately:
What do you think about my plan:
- 12V
- 540
- 6:1 gearbox
Component shop gives these figures: 2633 r/min, 2,85A, 21,2W
Alternative: 545-12 advertised by Electronize
I'm not planning to participate in towing competitions (like there were any in Finland...)
You may know if the amps are stall current amps (I'm guessing not)..?
I was thinking of going brushless, but I cannot find local peer support for that. So even if it is becoming old-fashioned, I think brush is good!
Hande
Hande
I used direct drive 540 motors on my Neddy with no troubles. Like the Capt, I'm not using mine for towing competitions, but she still hauls very well. I don't see you need to go to the aggrevation of gearboxes, nor the cost of brushless. However, and Action 94 controller is great.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html)
Keep up the good work Capt.
John
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Keep up the good work Capt.
John
Thank you John.
I continue to admire your Neddy build, referring to it often, just hope my end result does justice to the model.
Regards,
Ray.
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Hande
I used direct drive 540 motors on my Neddy with no troubles. Like the Capt, I'm not using mine for towing competitions, but she still hauls very well. I don't see you need to go to the aggrevation of gearboxes, nor the cost of brushless. However, and Action 94 controller is great.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html)
John
Thank you, Oldiron, John, for your views! I feel honoured :-)
I have studied your build already and read it back and forth. When I landed this particular kit, I didn't know, how popular it is. Of course, there is good reason, as we know. The good fortune for me is that several people have been kind enough to share their experience and I have found help in so many ways. My build: bit.ly/Neddie_of_Hande
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So, the new wheelhouse floor was made. This was then welded to the main superstructure - the wheelhouse will remain free standing until window glass goes in, nearer the completion date.
Also welded a rim around the on/off switch box lid, just makes it that little bit more secure.
Next job was the new wheelhouse roof - took 3 attempts to get that bit right - the roof was welded in place and finished off with the 3 sided kickplates.
The front window wiper covers were then fashioned out of evergreen plastic strip and attached.
There was also a little platform, for the winch operators pedestal control panel, to be made. Once this was completed, a hole was drilled and a pin made to fit.
The platform was then welded in place.
Here's a few photos...
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Well, that's as far as I can go until the painting gets underway.
In the meantime, there are the old stanchions and handrails to be assessed - these all need stripping down to see what can be salvaged.
Just look at the state they are in...
Regards,
Ray.
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Yep, they are a mess Ray. Looks like a bunch of stock fence after the stampede!
The build is looking cracking though.
Simon
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Yep, they are a mess Ray. Looks like a bunch of stock fence after the stampede!
The build is looking cracking though.
Simon
{-) {-) {-)
...Thanks Simon, I needed something to cheer me this morning. {-) {-) :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Cracking wheelhouse Ray, like you I'm waiting to get some painting done. :-))
ho and did you roundup all the cattle %% {-)
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ho and did you roundup all the cattle %% {-)
No - they have mooooo-ved on. {-) {-)
The weather has improved Joe but I'm having to give the Allotment garden priority >>:-(
Hope to at least get the 1st Primer coat on the boat this weekend. %)
Regards,
Ray.
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While waiting for weather, I carried out further checks on the running gear and wasn't happy with the rudder operations.
Tried a number of options and finally settled for the servo close to the tillers, with 2 operating rods. Now works a lot better, so the new servo mounting has been epoxied in place. (It's actually located in the void in the keel)
The weather forecast indicated reasonable weather for today so the hull was rubbed down and keyed with 180 grit wet 'n dry, used dry.
Outer & inner bulwarks and the main deck were then done with 400 grit - didn't want to damage the plywood.
Finally, for this phase, the lower superstructure and wheelhouse were also given a rub down with the 400 grit.
Then, the whole lot were given a wash down and dried off, followed by Panel Wipe and Tack Wipe.
Also took the opportunity to fix the nav lamp boxes and liferaft brackets in place.
The 1st coat of primer was applied this afternoon....
here's a few photo's..........
(forgot to photograph my new rudder servo set up - I'll do that when this paint has had time to dry off completely)
Regards,
Ray.
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Er hope you didn't literally wash down the hull with Water as primer is porus that's why I say rub down dry......all you really need to do in this case was to remover the dust with a dry rag.....then simply wash down with Panel wipe tack rag and wey hey paint on
Dave
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looking good ray but as stavros says primer is porous.
i made that mistake with my coble and it is amazing just how much moisture the primer holds.
after i did the wet rubdown dried the hull i tack clothed the hull then i hit it with its top colour and it had more fish eyes in it so there was no other option but to start over.
regards
Mick
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Er hope you didn't literally wash down the hull with Water as primer is porus that's why I say rub down dry......all you really need to do in this case was to remover the dust with a dry rag.....then simply wash down with Panel wipe tack rag and wey hey paint on
Dave
Thanks for the info Dave - the wash down was done last night because the forecast was good for today. I knew I wouldn't have much time so I did the Panel wipe / tack rag just prior to applying the primer.
I'm definitely following your advise on this preparation lark. O0
Sorry to confuse, it's just the way I worded it earlier. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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looking good ray but as stavros says primer is porous.
regards
Mick
Cheers Mick, no water applied since Primer went on. (My previous wording at fault) :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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no problem ray :-)) but she is looking great keep up the cracking work and up dates as and when mate ;)
regards
Mick
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Looking good Ray.
What primer did you use and how was it applied?
Simon.
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Looking good Ray.
What primer did you use and how was it applied?
Simon.
Thanks Simon - it's just Halfords spray, standard grey primer (rattle cans).
I'll see how it goes but reckon on giving it three coats before the top colours.
Regards,
Ray.
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PHEW thank goodness for that well done Ray keep up the good work looking rather good
Dave
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i made that mistake with my coble and it is amazing just how much moisture the primer holds.
after i did the wet rubdown dried the hull i tack clothed the hull then i hit it with its top colour and it had more fish eyes in it so there was no other option but to start over.
regards
Mick
I'm coming behind Capt Podge.
I want to understand the mistake that I am to avoid, Mick. Or Stavros.
If you dried the hull, why was there a problem of the fish eyes?
I was planning to use a plastic primer on the ABS hull. Then regular car primer, sand and prime as many times it takes to get a smooth surface. Then top colours and lacquer.
Where is the danger?
Appreciate answers that a newbie like me can understand ok2
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Looking good Ray , :-))
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Hande,
What Stavros is saying, is, once you start applying the primer, you should avoid sanding "wet"
The primer is porous and will retain water even though it looks dry.
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handy captain fizz has hit the nail on the head.
it may look and feel dry but as soon as the top coat paint hits the surfus it will draw any moisture out hence the fish eyes .
i now dry sand and have learnt my lesson the hard way <*< lol
regards
mick
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whoa..!
I would never have known that!
Yet another good reason to join the forum.
Sometimes I feel like trespassing over a mine field.
Yesterday, I gathered all my courage and started with some of the fittings - I will post pics in my build thread soon.
Now, back to Podge's thread. Didn't want to hijack the discussion.. :embarrassed:
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Thanks for all the input guys - I guess that clarifies what Stavros has been trying to get across to us all this time. O0
Now, back to Podge's thread. Didn't want to hijack the discussion.. :embarrassed:
<*< :-)) :-))
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No - they have mooooo-ved on. {-) {-)
Ray.
Ha ha.....
Your doing a top job there Podge, proper nice Wheelhouse. :-))
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Yes and smooth priming Ray!
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My thanks to all for the input to date....
...and now - it's time to confess to an almighty oversight.
Think about this for a moment or two. The inner bulwarks and bulwark supports are to be painted in a yellow colour. The main deck is going to be duck egg blue (not forgetting the yellow for the little bits of bulwark support that show on the outside) How the heck am I supposed to mask that little lot off. {:-{
I guess the answer will be "very carefully" {-)
Also, I couldn't get spray cans near enough to the colours I'm painting so these bits will be done by hand.
So far, I've applied 2 thinned down coats of the yellow. Probably be applying 6 coats in total - then it'll be masking up time in order to paint the main deck.
Hindsight tells me I should have painted the deck BEFORE gluing the bulwark supports on AND the supports should have been painted off the model as well. >>:-(
Hande - take note of this, don't fall into the same trap - it's a real pain in the trossachs.
Regards,
Ray.
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Ooooooh..... But I have an idea, if all the bulwark supports are the same thickness then maybe this will work........
First paint the deck not bothering too much about getting paint on the supports, hand paint or spray. THEN take some aluminium foil like take away tray foil and cut a slot that just fits around a bulwark. It's easy to get a nice cut with a stanly knife and being foil it folds easily for tight areas. You can then mask off the deck with this tool and reasonably quickly hand paint the bulwarks. Being a working boat it doesn't need a high gloss smooth finish that a spray would give.
You could make a few of these and use them alternatively so that way you won't get wet paint running to the underside. Just an idea...... Good luck. U2
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I did the bulwarks first and then very carefully did the decks around them - no masking at all...... then did the 'easy' parts of the deck. Mind you, mine was a refurbishment and all the deck gear was already in place. Not practical to mask everything, so it took some considerable time and I ended up becoming rather good at careful painting! Luckily I found it very therapeutic.
Next time, I think I'll follow the contents of this thread! :D
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Hindsight tells me I should have painted the deck BEFORE gluing the bulwark supports on AND the supports should have been painted off the model as well. >>:-(
Hande - take note of this, don't fall into the same trap - it's a real pain in the trossachs.
Regards,
Ray.
After deliberation I'd decided to do just that, paint the bulwark supports off the build. Like a number of other parts as well. It's the way I have learned to paint models in the old days.
Thank you for thinking about my build! You really are acting a guinea pig for me, aren't you..? I hope, I will have the opportunity to buy you a ... erm... mineral water one day ok2
Another thing is this "duck egg" colour that Billings is proposing. Never, ever have I seen that colour on a real tug. My experience may be limited, but in my full-size vessel it is a nice looking green almost akin the pool table. I already bought the duck egg paint, but it will likely remain unused.
A hint: I noticed in the pictures of my full-size Smit Finland that the roof edge windows of the wheelhouse are tinted (against sunlight and UV). I got me a transparent blue in the hopes it will look cool on my build :}
Hande
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As far as the anchors are concerned, what are you planning to do with them? They show in the pictures, where there is, however, no anchor winch present, yet. Mind you, I am not _expecting_ a working winch, but my kit contains the anchor chain tubes that lead to the deck. I thought I'd exploit them so that if I ever want to add a working anchor assembly, I would not preclude the possibility...
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As far as the anchors are concerned, what are you planning to do with them? They show in the pictures, where there is, however, no anchor winch present, yet. Mind you, I am not _expecting_ a working winch, but my kit contains the anchor chain tubes that lead to the deck. I thought I'd exploit them so that if I ever want to add a working anchor assembly, I would not preclude the possibility...
The anchor windlass is on the foredeck. The anchors tuck into pockets in the bow.
John
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Another windlass shot.
John
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You could make a few of these and use them alternatively so that way you won't get wet paint running to the underside. Just an idea...... Good luck. U2
Thanks U2 - I'll rig a mock up and give it a test run before committing this idea to the model. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I did the bulwarks first and then very carefully did the decks around them - no masking at all....
Thanks for that Meechingman - I have already painted two thinned down coats to the bulwarks / supports however, I'm going to see what happens with the mock up I mentioned above.
Note: Enthusiasm to get the boat rebuilt got in the way of common sense. %)
Regards,
Ray.
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Thank you for thinking about my build! You really are acting a guinea pig for me, aren't you..? I hope, I will have the opportunity to buy you a ... erm... mineral water one day ok2
Hande
Glad to be of help to you my friend. (Single Malt Whisky, that's the spirit) {-)
Another thing is this "duck egg" colour that Billings is proposing.
Hande
Yes, this is duck egg "blue" but when applied and dried off it gives a sort of light green colour to the finished surface - you could try it out on a piece of scrap material, let it dry and see what you make of it then. Don't forget to treat the wood to a couple of coats of primer though, otherwise you won't get a true sample.
(and that's another whisky for me...) :P
Regards,
Ray.
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As far as the anchors are concerned, what are you planning to do with them? They show in the pictures, where there is, however, no anchor winch present, yet. Mind you, I am not _expecting_ a working winch, but my kit contains the anchor chain tubes that lead to the deck. I thought I'd exploit them so that if I ever want to add a working anchor assembly, I would not preclude the possibility...
My anchor windlass has been fitted with pins to assist with locating through small holes in the deck - the trial run is shown on page 5, reply no.120, 2nd photo.
I've deliberately left out the hawse pipe fittings (less chance of water ingress) and the anchors, although epoxied in position, can be removed if needed. I can't see any need to removed then though, the model won't be fitted with working anchors. Hope this makes sense...
Regards,
Ray.
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Just looked at the photo of the winch and noticed your hidden switch in a box :-)) . It's a good idea, i just did something similar on my Alantis, the lengths we go to eh?
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Just looked at the photo of the winch and noticed your hidden switch in a box :-)) . It's a good idea, i just did something similar on my Alantis, the lengths we go to eh?
Quite right U2.
That particular box will be painted red and given the classification "windlass emergency tools". :D
Regards,
Ray.
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Just caught up with this Ray - what a cracking refurb this is turning out to be!!!
I can see a summer of peaceful sailing for Neddie this year - easily! You seem to be progressing at a cracking pace. With regard to deck painting and masking, I found when painting the bulwarks and deck of my Yorkshireman it was easier to do it by brush. It was such a faff to try masking up that I ended up painting the bulwarks in ochre first and then, using a squared off brush, coating the deck with the 'deck green'. I found this green - from a new tin - flowed well and didn't show any brush marks.
Looking forward to the next instalment :-))
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With regard to deck painting and masking, I found when painting the bulwarks and deck of my Yorkshireman it was easier to do it by brush. It was such a faff to try masking up that I ended up painting the bulwarks in ochre first and then, using a squared off brush, coating the deck with the 'deck green'. I found this green - from a new tin - flowed well and didn't show any brush marks.
Hi Carl - that's a great tip regarding the squaring of the brush head, I'll most certainly do likewise. Thank you for sharing this. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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hi Capt Podge hows the refurb going.
hope some of life's unexpected little surprises have not been holding up the build mate.
looking foreword to your next up date
regards
mick
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Hiya Mick, I'm only getting little bits of painting done, in fits & starts. (afraid the shaky hand takes control now & then - specialist says it is called "intention tremor". Just got to live with it. >>:-(
I have finished painting the bulwarks and now, very carefully, working away at the main deck.
I'll take a couple of photo's of progress to date and update tomorrow. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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So, here's a little update....
The inner bulwarks & supports have been given 6 coats of yellow - this was diluted 60/40 with white spirit for the first coat, followed by 5 further coats in ever decreasing dilutions - final coat being diluted 80/20.
This was then left to dry for 48hrs.
While admiring my handiwork I noticed that a couple of the supports up for'd were not really vertical so, rather than mess about trying to straighten them, came up with a solution: Mounting boards were made for the 2 lifebelts up front. The boards were then primed and painted to match the bulwarks and glued in place.
-
....then it was time to paint the main deck.
This is in progress, painting Humbrol "duck-egg blue".
I'm using a very small brush to paint around the supports and a quarter inch brush for the remainder.
These photo's show 2 coats applied to the support area and just a very weak coat to the remainder.
....and that's where I've gotten up to so far.
I've also included a photo of the re-positioned rudder servo. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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looking good ray it is amazing how far the boat has come and i for one look foreword to your up dates.
its great to see how other modellers overcome and adapt to problems as the build progresses. :-))
look foreword to your next up date mate
regards
Mick
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How very innovative a solution to a "setback"! Looks great!
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Question: In spots, where you are to glue fittings, are you planning to glue on the paint, or will you scrape the paint off to reveal bare deck (for good bonding)?
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looking good ray it is amazing how far the boat has come and i for one look foreword to your up dates.
its great to see how other modellers overcome and adapt to problems as the build progresses. :-))
look foreword to your next up date mate
regards
Mick
Cheers Mick - over the years it seems that a number of problems (setbacks) have been self-inflicted :embarrassed: but, that's one of the reasons why MBM exists - to help each other overcome the odds. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Question: In spots, where you are to glue fittings, are you planning to glue on the paint, or will you scrape the paint off to reveal bare deck (for good bonding)?
That's a fair question Hande - looking at the latest photos you will see a number of small holes in the deck. These are the locations for all the deck fittings which have had pins inserted and glued. These will aid the sighting of those fittings. Rather than go back to bare wood I will simply "key" the relevant location and bond the fittings with epoxy resin.
The pins, made from copper coated mild steel, will also assist in preventing breakages/pilfering when the model is on display. :police:
Hope this makes sense to you....
Regards,
Ray.
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I will second that Ray. O0 looking good
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Exactly as I do my deck fittings Ray, except I use medium Cyanoacrylate I find epoxy tends to ooze if you're not very careful.
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Exactly as I do my deck fittings Ray, except I use medium Cyanoacrylate I find epoxy tends to ooze if you're not very careful.
Good point Joe. I'll try the cyano way first, neatness is not my Forte.
Regards,
Ray.
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I've used many different Cyanoacrylate's but now I only use Admiralty Glues Professional Cyanoacrylate, thin, medium or thick it's about twice the price but well worth it. :-))
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Thanks again Joe - I'll get some from CMB with my next order. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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ray with members of mbm on our side the odds are stacked in our favour :-)) and as someone on here said the only silly question is the one we dont ask %) keep up the great work mate and i hope i get an invite to the first sailing mate ok2
regards
mick
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Finished painting the deck at last - the hull was then set aside for 48hrs.
Satisfied with the result, so attention turned to marking off the waterline then masking up ready for spraying. As luck would have it, the weather has returned to autumn/winter conditions so, once again it's a waiting game. >:-o
In the meantime, it's back to cleaning up the stanchions/handrails...
...this is a very short update, but that's where we're at. :embarrassed:
A couple of photo's (best I could get to show the colour)
Regards,
Ray.
Note: The last photo has nothing to do with the boat - just a lovely snap of the blackbird nesting right outside my back door, under the protective canopy. :-)
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Well done with the painting!
And you have audience :} Nice shot of the blackbird - really like it!!
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Thank you Hande.
I was approx. 12ft away from the bird, so no problems with disturbing her. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray I just glanced at the last photo and thought you had fitted a "Crows Nest" to the Smit. %% %% {-) {-) {-)
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{-) {-) {-) {-)
Just logged on and saw your reply Joe - excellent humour!
Regards,
Ray.
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The weather was suitable for spray painting outside today so a thorough check was carried out to ensure masking tape was firmly in place then sprayed the lower hull with Halfords "BMW Imola Red 11" and the superstructure with "Appliance White".
Hope to get another coat applied tomorrow...
...and, in the time honoured fashion, here's a few photos (including 1 snap of the blackbird chicks)
Regards,
Ray.
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It's always good to start getting the paint on.
I hope the chicks were wearing their masks!
Simon
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I hope the chicks were wearing their masks!
Simon
{-) {-)
I did a test spray first to make sure the wind was in the opposite direction to the nest.
Had to hurry the shot before the parents returned - they are now working in relay to feed the little beggars, so I don't think I'll be able to get another shot for a while - I'd hate to see the nest abandoned. :o
Regards,
Ray.
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Are you angling for a job on Spring watch Ray? Lovely pictures of your personal bug exterminator.
I like what I see. Very crisp painting. I salute you for that.
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Are you angling for a job on Spring watch Ray? Lovely pictures of your personal bug exterminator.
{-) {-) {-)
I like what I see. Very crisp painting. I salute you for that.
Thanks Ian - it doesn't really show in the photo's but, I've got 2 or 3 runs on the wheelhouse, which will have to be fettled before the next coat goes on.
Regards,
Ray.
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It's so nice with springtime! You are a couple of weeks ahead of us. Blackbirds make a lot of noice here, but nests are only being built at this time.
Good to see paint on your build! Looks really nice. :-))
Meanwhile, I'm trying to rescue mine from a disaster of a primer job >>:-( <:(
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the nest.
looking good ray what brand of appliance white did you use mate.
nice picks of the chicks in the nest.
regards
Mick
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Hiya Mick. Sorry mate, I should have made it clear - the appliance white is also from Halfords. (wish I had shares in the Company)
Regards,
Ray.
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thanks ray
looks like a trip to Halfords tomorrow :-)) for a can or two mate
regards
Mick
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Hi Ray, I'm using Appliance White on Diva, it's surprising how much you need even for a small boat around £20,s worth with the primer, I think we must be keeping Halfords in business. %%
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I think we must be keeping Halfords in business. %%
...and it looks like Mick (sharkbite0) is investing in it too. :-)
I used to use a separate primer for each colour i.e. white primer for white paint, red primer for the red paint etc. - the cost was becoming far too much - now, after reading comments by Stavros, I just use the grey primer for all. It does not appear to make any significant difference to the finished colour.
Hope this makes sense.
Regards,
Ray.
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There's been so much happening on the home front that there has been no time for modelling work.
Well, I managed to get access to my workshop this evening so, carrying on where we left off...
The lower hull paint job came out ok so attention now turned to masking off for the upper half.
Because of the way the boat was put back together, I've given myself the devil of a job with regards to the masking.
First, the lower hull was masked at the waterline - that was straight forward enough, although I did have to remove the previously installed anchors. This was due to the waterline cutting through the lower portion of the anchor ports.
Next, all the entry/exit ports in the bulwarks were masked from the inside.
Then the outer exposed portions of the bulwark supports needed masking. This was then followed by taping up between the supports, from inside, to the deck edges.
After that, it was a case of running tape between the supports again, to mask off from deck level to cover between deck and spurnwater cut-outs in the bulwarks.
This was followed by taping off, on the inside, the whole of the bulwarks installation.
Finally, the whole of the main deck was paper & tape covered, ready for spraying.
This update has been a bit long winded but, hopefully, it will help others who may be in a similar situation.
Some photo's....
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...and, for anyone who may be interested in an update on the Blackbird...
The 1st photo, taken on Friday 13th, shows the chicks at feeding time.
The 2nd photo, taken on Saturday 14th, shows the last of the 3 chicks taking a rest at fledging time - about 3hrs later, it finally flew away with the Parents, and the other 2 fledglings.
Regards,
Ray.
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nice to see you back on with the model ray :-))
now lets hope for nice weather to get on with the top coat on the hull mate.
also nice to see the chicks are leaving the nest love the pic of the baby blackbird sitting posing for the camera.
regards
mick
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Isn't he a darlng little chick!
I'm holding breath while your painting sees progress. The deck looks great. I'm sure the outside will turn out fine - with all that masking and taping...
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now lets hope for nice weather to get on with the top coat on the hull mate.
regards
mick
Couldn't agree more Mick - I'm in the throws of finishing off one of my daughters' moving into her new flat, then a bit more to see to in the Allotment garden - hoping to get the hull spraying done over the next 3 or 4 days. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I'm sure the outside will turn out fine - with all that masking and taping...
Thank you Hande - I certainly hope so, I'd hate to have to start that masking all over again. :o
Regards,
Ray.
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At last - the upper half of the hull has received 4 coats of black gloss....ignore the blue hues, it's just reflected light.
-
...allowed about 45 mins after the final coat then removed all masking. Thankfully, it turned out ok so no need for any further masking up.
Got a couple of very minor overspray marks on the deck edges. These will be dealt with after the boat has been left alone for 48hrs.
.....here's a few photos.
Regards,
Ray.
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W O N D E R F U L, capt !
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Thanks Hande - just don't look too close.... %)
Hoping to carry on tomorrow - paint should be hard enough by now.
Regards,
Ray.
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Where you went wrong with the spraying Ray, was to use the workmate. What you should have done is use the wheelybin. That way you get to mark the wheelybin so its instantly recognizable as yours and you keep the workmate looking nice and new :-)) Otherwise she is looking pristine.
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Excellent work at masking and spraying and also excellent work at helping nature. I wonder if those baby blackbirds will now evolve a little towards model boating? Lovely images, you should send them to Springwatch :-))
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That way you get to mark the wheelybin so its instantly recognizable as yours
{-) {-)
Thanks for the advice Brian - my bins already have spray residue on them from previous models. I also wrote down and filed away the serial numbers when the bins were first issued, this came in handy when a neighbour from a few doors away tried to claim the bins as his - his were stolen - nice try mister!
Otherwise she is looking pristine.
All compliments gratefully received - however, it is noticeable that there are rough areas in the anchor pockets, this is due to epoxy left behind when I removed the anchors. This was deliberate though, my theory being that, when I reinstall the anchors, they will go back exactly where I took them from - I hope. %)
Regards,
Ray.
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Excellent work at masking and spraying and also excellent work at helping nature. I wonder if those baby blackbirds will now evolve a little towards model boating? Lovely images, you should send them to Springwatch :-))
Thank you Ian.
Ref the bird images - I may just do that. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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So then, while the painted hull was hardening off, took the opportunity to apply filler to the superstructure and wheelhouse. There's a multitude of tiny gaps, which were not so apparent until the 1st of the topcoats was applied.
On the recommendation of others, I'm using squadron white putty for this task.
Then, while that was hardening off, returned to the hull and dealt with the minor overspray marks on the deck.
...and then it was back to the superstructure - filler sanded down but, yet again the weather gods have conspired to upset my plans - in other words I'm "waiting on weather" for spray painting. >>:-(
So, in the meantime, the BECC lettering has been applied - 10mm on the stern and 8mm to the sides - getting there slowly.
....couple of photo's to whet the appetite.
Regards,
Ray.
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nice ray and looking great
i here you on the weather mate i have a boat waiting the get the primer on
im off work next week so lets hope the weather improves. its more like November out there not June (well we do live in the north east lol )
keep up the good work mate.
regards
Mick
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Weather just the same South of you.
Can't even sit watching paint dry. <:( <:( <:(
Ned
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lets hope the weather improves.
keep up the good work mate.
regards
Mick
Cheers Mick - just had a look at the bbc weather website - forecasting gradual improvement Saturday through to next Friday.
In the meantime I'm just adding a lick of paint to some of the smaller fittings. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Weather just the same South of you.
Can't even sit watching paint dry. <:( <:( <:(
Ned
Sympathising with you Ned - went to the lake this morning, waste of time trying to sail. Cup of coffee, quick chat then home again. >:-o
(and now the washing machine has decided to quit - right in the middle of washing the bedding - the whisky bottle is looking rather inviting. O0)
Regards,
Ray.
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Wasn't too bad here, remained dry & was just warm enough in the shed to get some resin mixed & glass the motor mounts into the latest project :-)
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Wasn't too bad here, remained dry & was just warm enough in the shed to get some resin mixed & glass the motor mounts into the latest project :-)
Yea, it's not so much the temperature that's stalling us - just the wind & rain/mist/fog/drizzle - what are you building Kipper ? (if there's a log on your build I may have missed it - apologies in advance)
Regards
Ray.
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I'm doing roughly the same job as you are, I bought an old tug off another of our club members, then found out it was
built by a member of Mayhem :-) , he did a bit of a blog on here when he originaly built it, it's been through a couple of
owners to get to me & is in a bit of a sorry state.
I decided the best option was to strip it back down, & rebuild.
Link to when I first got the boat 'Dutch River', built by Portside II from Goole. http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,53722.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,53722.0.html)
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I decided the best option was to strip it back down, & rebuild.
Link to when I first got the boat 'Dutch River', built by Portside II from Goole. http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,53722.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,53722.0.html)
Thanks Kipper - yep, I did miss it, but I'll follow your updates when they appear. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I think they will be very 'second rate' compared to your build, afraid I'm not that talented :((
Not going to do a blog, as most of the time I don't know what I'm doing, things get done one day, then I
change my mind & alter it 2 days later.
It's happening more since I joined this forum, because there is so much I thought I knew & now I know that
my knowledge is very miniscule, hence the words under my name over there <------- it's only half a joke. O0
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I think they will be very 'second rate' compared to your build, afraid I'm not that talented :((
I understand where you're coming from Kipper but remember 'the guy who never made a mistake never made anything'
Be assured though, my models are far from perfect however, I build for my own pleasure and within the bounds of my own capabilities.
This modelling lark really is a huge learning curve and, having been at it for 19 years now I still get great satisfaction when, eventually, the model takes to the water.
Wish you all the very best with your efforts. O0 :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Just a little update....
Weather has been good today so took the opportunity to finish the topcoat spraying on the superstructure and wheelhouse.
Masking removed after about 45 minutes.
There are a couple of paint runs to be sorted, once the paint has hardened off.
Meanwhile, the deck vents have been given a fresh coat of paint....
-
...and glued in place, along with the 2 for'd lifebelts.
The "emergency tools" box (on/off switch cover) is a "painting in progress" job c/w black for the safety chain.
Another couple of pics...
Regards,
Ray.
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Sorry about the blurred picture - I added that one accidentally :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
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some one has been busy mate :-))
looking better with every up date ray
im enjoying this build so much and liking the
is tug i my just buy one
regards
Mick
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some one has been busy mate :-))
looking better with every up date ray
im enjoying this build so much and liking the
is tug i my just buy one
regards
Mick
Cheers Mick.
The "neddy" is quite a popular model. If you do get one, take your time with it - you will be rewarded come sailing time. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Know what Ray till now I've been drilling holes in bit's of ply to spray batch things like stanchion's etc. then I saw your photo of the styrene foam, Doh! now why the heck didn't think of that,
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Know what Ray till now I've been drilling holes in bit's of ply to spray batch things like stanchion's etc. then I saw your photo of the styrene foam, Doh! now why the heck didn't think of that,
That's why it is such a bonus, being on this Forum. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Just another minor update....
On the bridge - the control console, furniture etc., has now been glued in place, along with the mate.
The wheelhouse structure itself will remain dry fitted until glazing gets done.
-
After nearly 2 hrs of trying, finally managed to fit the dog handles on the Stbd side doors of the superstructure. This included grovelling about on the workshop floor, searching for 3 of the little blighters. >>:-(
As can be seen in this photo, some of the paint came off the handles while being fitted - this will be put right later.
Regards,
Ray.
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ray when i drop something that small out comes henry hover (he has better eyes than me )and he finds it for me lol %%
i often wonder how much time we spend on our knees looking for bits that have fell onto the workshop floor :embarrassed:
nice up date on the wheel house mate she is looking spot on. :-))
buy the way im on the hunt for a neddy as i type but dont tell the wife <*<
regards
Mick
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Love the wheelhouse layout Ray. :-))
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ray when i drop something that small out comes henry hover (he has better eyes than me )and he finds it for me lol %%
I have heard of some people who do this, using a nylon stocking (or similar) over the end of the hose, to stop whatever they are retrieving from being sucked into the vacuum's innards. ;D
nice up date on the wheel house mate she is looking spot on. :-))
buy the way im on the hunt for a neddy as i type but dont tell the wife <*<
regards
Mick
Thanks Mick.
When I bought this kit, the wife was with me and, to avoid any hassle, I agreed to buy her the Graupner T.O.N. 12 KrabKutter.
She put the 2 halves of the rudder sole plate together, then abandoned the model altogether - guess who got a 2nd boat out of the deal ? {-) O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Love the wheelhouse layout Ray. :-))
Thanks Joe - I can't really take credit for this though - just using items that were supplied with the kit. Notice the "instruments" on the main panel, this is just a waterslide transfer which has seen better days. :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray you are building the kit, the credit is all yours, regarding dropping tiny bits, I do it all the time, I "borrow" the wife's lint roller it works a treat :-))
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i agree with Joe Ray
she my be a kit but your the one putting all the work into her mate
and she is looking sweet mate
regards
mick
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Ray you are building the kit, the credit is all yours, regarding dropping tiny bits, I do it all the time, I "borrow" the wife's lint roller it works a treat :-))
Thanks for that Joe.
....and what a great idea regarding the roller!
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Mick - hope to have some sort of update tomorrow....
Regards,
Ray.
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Bit more work done over last few evenings....
Propellers have been refitted and Loctite applied.
Anchors have been painted up and shipped using 5min epoxy resin.
Chain pipes made, painted and mounted on the windlass bed (with thanks to Hande for the idea)
Chain locker access hatch completed and fitted.
Windlass "goalpost" fitted. Hawse "holes" painted.
For'd double bollards glued and pinned.
Anchor chain guides glued on, along with windlass and windless operators control pedestal.
Engine room escape hatch fitted.
Foredeck crewman returned to duty.
That's the foredeck completed with exception of anchor chains which are awaiting paint.
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Over to the main deck....
Towing winch, tow hook, single bollards, main towing cruciform bollards, hatches, protection bars, vents, after cruciform bollard, double bollards - all pinned and glued along with the deckhand who's busy flaking down spare rope.
The crate on the after end, along with emergency wire cables (ex- model tank) glued in place.
That completes the picture, with the exception of the stern light - still got to figure that one out yet.
Couple of photo's....
Regards,
Ray.
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There's been high demands on my time on the home front - 3 weeks have flown by without me getting anywhere near my little workshop - the demands are finally subsiding and as of yesterday, I'm back.
Having spent a bit of time familiarising myself with where I'd left off, I'm now back in the swing of it.
So, the anchor chains have been painted up and fitted. The stern light has been made up complete with LED and wiring. Port & Stbd navlight boxes have been painted internally (black) and the completed LED / wiring run to the inside of the lower superstructure.
Finally for now, the hull has been given a few coats of lacquer to protect the paintwork.
I'll get some photos taken tomorrow. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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nice to see you back on the model ray :-))
and boy is she looking great full credit to you mate.
regards
mick
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I understand where you're coming from Kipper but remember 'the guy who never made a mistake never made anything'
Be assured though, my models are far from perfect however, I build for my own pleasure and within the bounds of my own capabilities.
This modelling lark really is a huge learning curve and, having been at it for 19 years now I still get great satisfaction when, eventually, the model takes to the water.
Wish you all the very best with your efforts. O0 :-))
Ray.
Sometimes a mistake can pay dividends later on as I found out last month. I was designing a master of the new Russian 'Tiger' Military vehicle and I had got to the wheel making stage. Two years ago I was cussing because I had made a wheel for another modern military vehicle that was too small. Half a day wasted I thought, but as I was measuring my references preparing to make this wheel, I remembered that in my drawer of bits and bobs dwelt an unloved modern style military tyre. It was just the right size and the tread was not a million miles off :} As a aside, this offers a good reason for not throwing anything away as you may need it in the future.
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the demands are finally subsiding
Ray.
Spoke too soon - didn't get into the workshop until after 9:30 this evening - managed to get a couple of photos though...
pic1: Stern light
pic2: Stbd nav light shows wiring entering superstructure (getting a bit grubby now, will need cleaning up)
pic3: Nice sheen with the lacquer applied.
pic4: Anchor chains.
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I've also been thinking about how best to link up the LED's
So far, I've soldered lengths of wire to each of the LED's, but that's all.
In the following photos I have rigged some spares to a choc-block, complete with the necessary resistors and jumper leads for the Positive legs, with all the Negatives in a single terminal.
They all light up nicely and don't get warm - so hopefully, I'm on the right track. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Someone's getting busy again :-))
(I've little hope {:-{ ).
Can you, capt, give some data about the led installation; I can tell they are micro-leds of sorts and they are connected in parallel. What is the ohm value of the resistors? I'm assuming a 12V system - is that right? What if you want deck lights, wheelhouse lights? Will you have separate circuits for each? Finally, will you remotely switch them on/off?
You will be sailing this summer, won't you? :-)) :}
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Hiya Hande, I'm still not 100% sure about how I'm going to achieve my aims for the lighting.
I'll try to answer your questions though...
First of all, the LED's and their relevant resistors were bought as sets from Component Shop, so I'm not sure what the actual ohm values are. Have a look at the reply 51 on page 3 of this log - this was kindly attached by Brian60 - download it, it might help you some.
Next, I only ever run my models on 6v - that's just what I started with and am happy to carry on doing for the foreseeable future.
Again, I'm not certain about how many lights I'm going to install but there will be at least 6, probably all on one circuit.
Finally, will you remotely switch them on/off?
I was going to but this would mean buying another servo and funds are getting tight.
Will probably just settle for a standard on/off switch, maybe hidden under the bench seat between the funnels ?
Sailing this summer ? I certainly hope so - I've been working on this model for nearly 11 months now. :((
Hope this reply helps you in some way. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Settled into the workshop this evening, got everything ready for soldering up - LED's, wiring, clamps, insulating rubber, flux, solder and my 18watt iron.
Plugged it in, made a quick brew while it was warming up. Back to the workshop, soldering iron still cold. >:-o
Checked socket, plug, fuse - all ok.
Stripped the iron - all connections ok.
Can these things just "stop working?" it was ok last night....any ideas?
Regards,
Ray.
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My Draper iron did the same thing, it was a break in the fine wire used for the heating element, this wire does deteriorate with a lot of use & develop thin spots that then burn out.
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Ah, that sounds about right - off to Maplins for a replacement then, I guess.
Thanks for the quick reply Kipper. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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I recently had a similar issue with my old Scope 3v 80 watt iron that I use for just about everything.
I dismantled the handpiece, couldn't see anything obvious, cleaned the carbon contactor, put it all back together and, nothing. Did the whole excersize over again, and still nothing!
Ordered another cheap 60 watt iron from my favoured supplier in china, including a range of different tips, and waited!
During this time I was using a cheap variable 60 watt iron, but with a very fine tip which didn't always give enough heat for the job, so I decided to have one last go at the Scope before I binned it!
Found the problem! Where the tip screws into the s/steel barrel it had built up a thin crust of oxidisation which acted like an insulator, even though I had unscrewed the tip a couple of times in the initial stripdown, it hadn't broken the crust, and visually there didn't appear to be a problem. Cleaned the thread with a coarse wire brush, and it's now working as good as new.
I've had this iron for well over 30 years, and I doubt the chinese cheappies will last this long. That said, they do work well for the price, and if they do kark it, it's only around AU$16.00 posted for a new variable temp unit with a bunch of tips. I usually keep a spare or two of most tools anyway!
Ian.
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Hope this reply helps you in some way. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks, Ray! I sure would like to install some lighting. Your example gives me an idea about what is involved.
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I seem to have spent quite a bit of time to achieve very little, but here goes...
For the lighting I've settled for a straight forward on / off switch, covered with bench seat, as stated previously.
All three lights have now been properly wired in, complete with the respective resistors, all working fine.
The lights are being run from a separate battery pack, located on top of the access hatch, along with a standard row of choc-blocks.
Finally received my Solder Paint today so I was able to make a start on the next running light, which will be located abaft the funnels on 01 deck.
The fixture is made up of 2 pieces of brass tube and a 4BA washer, the cut out for the lamp was fashioned with a small round file and then all 3 bits were joined with the solder paint.
This stuff, as recommended by others, is an easy to use (though expensive) alternative to traditional soldering methods - just paint it on (sparingly) and torch it - job done. It actually makes soldering a pleasure to do and is so neat. I'd say it's a must for those of us with shaky hands. O0
Lastly, for now, a piece of acetate was cut with a hole-punch and slid into place for a lens.
I should get this lamp fitted tomorrow I think, then I'll see about making one for the wheelhouse roof.
A few photo's then....
Pic 1: The 3 lamps in operation
Pic 2: Port & Stbd lamps - just discernable
Pic 3: Further shot of Stbd nav lamp
Pic 4: Stern lamp, switch uncovered just behind wheelhouse.
more coming....
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Pic 1: Post and lamp made up
Pic 2: The solder paint (other makes available) ordered through Maplins
Pic 3: It's a bit bright - but it works !
Pic 4: A bit Heath Robinson but this is the initial test phase. :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
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Heath robinson maybe, but it works and no one is suspended above a machine by old string and a funny but of stick!
Your illuminations look good. The photo showing your wiring of LEDs was useful and one I will try and remember.
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Thanks Ian. As can be seen in that last photo, the Resistor has yet to be soldered to the yellow (V+) wire. This will be done after the unit has been painted and the wires passed through into the lower superstructure. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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most illuminating... O0 ;D %)
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Just for a bit of added interest, here's a photo of the parts that go into the making of afore-mentioned pedestal lamps...
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...and the next one shows the lights being tested prior to removal for final painting...
...and another with the painted items hardening off.
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The only other work done is:-
For'd warping guides fitted to the lower superstructure, portholes glazed, grab rails installed and lower lifebelts fitted.
Also made a mould for the liferafts - the casting should be completed tomorrow.
A few pics to follow...
Regards,
Ray.
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Good going Ray, she's going to be one very nice tug, two of my boats have lighting I to had thought about remotely switching them but then thought for the amount I sail at dusk it's so easy just to have a switch hiding somewhere, :-))
Joe.
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Here's a thought for your lighting.
My Denton (an ex Neddy) has a mix of grain of wheat and LED lighting. I prefer the warmer colour of the GOW bulbs - I think LEDs may well have got better at imitating this since then. LEDs were used for the port/starboard lights. But I put in two lighting circuits. The deck lights, spotlight, internal lights, after deck floodlights and the port/starboard lights come off the boat's main 6V battery. The mast lights come off their own 6V battery pack.
"Why do this?" you may ask. Well, the local club used to have night sailings, starting at dusk and ending when it was really pitch black. The battery on one of the boats ran down to zero and of course not only was it stuck out in the middle of the lake, but no-one could even see it! Finding and retrieving it was good fun, I can tell you. Even big torches aren't much help if you just don't know where to point them. At least if my battery should expire, the mast lights will still be on.
Here's Denton with lights switched on.
On Heighton, my other 'lit up' tug, I have a similar lighting mix, but she was built before Denton and has just one distribution board. 7.2V from the battery goes into a 5V regulator with trim pots allowing me to provide about 4.5V for the mast lights, 3V for the internals and around 1.5V for the LEDs. About 5 minutes to sketch out and half an hour to build from odds and sods in the electrics bin. She comes in before it gets really dark, just in case!
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Good going Ray, she's going to be one very nice tug, two of my boats have lighting I to had thought about remotely switching them but then thought for the amount I sail at dusk it's so easy just to have a switch hiding somewhere, :-))
Joe.
Thanks Joe.
I've yet to try a night sail somewhere. Our lake licence stipulates "no sailing after dusk" :((
Because our lake is right on the seaside we do get the odd "misty" day - the nav lights have saved a few models from collisions. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Here's a thought for your lighting.
Thanks Meechingman.
I appreciate your breakdown of what's involved and will attempt something similar in one or two future models.
That's a nice looking conversion by the way. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Just a little bit more done....
The yellow & blue stripes have been added to the superstructure, along with the ships bell and for'd loudhailer.
The 2 liferafts have been cast in resin, primed and painted, along with the new radar pedestal I've made.
The mounting for the aft end warping guide has been made, using 4 pieces of 13 x 10mm balsa which were then glued together to form a block, from which the final shape was made just by hand-sanding.
The guide was then added and the whole was primed and painted. Left alone now to harden off.
Pic 1: Stripes and fittings
Pic 2: Radar pedestal drying off
Pic 3: The replacement guide mounting
Pic 4: The 2 liferafts (still to be painted black around the "rubber" central seal)
Also dug out the old glazing for the wheelhouse, and promptly scattered them around the floor ! >>:-(
Thankfully, I've recovered them all - got them all sorted on the bench now - they'll be tackled on my next mini session (tomorrow ?)
Regards,
Ray.
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Update....
The wheelhouse glazing is now complete.
Next, the positions for the stanchions were marked and drilled out, stanchions currently dry fitted. Delivery of brass handrails is underway.
Meanwhile, the liferaft centre "rubbers" have been painted and the units mounted.
Aft warping guide roller glued into position.
The wheelhouse doors / frames have been tidied up and fitted. A little word of caution here for anyone else building this or a similar model - earlier in the build I glued the window frames all round and when it came to fitting the doors I had to cut away a couple of portions of the window frames so that the doors/frames could be glued flush against the wheelhouse. :((
Next, the 3 windscreen wipers were added to the front wheelhouse windows.
The mast and funnels have been reassembled and the whole thing pinned into position - still needs rigging before gluing into place.
(I'm actually thinking of leaving this assembly removable for transportation/storage - not sure yet)
...and that's where I'm up to so far.
Just a few more photos for now.
Regards,
Ray.
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Is it too late to mention your stern view lights?
You have two showing white, it should be one. However for towing purposes you do have two stern lights, 1 yellow above 1 white. Don't ask me why because from a distance I am sure they will both look the same colour!
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Good information is never too late Brian, thanks for the heads up, I could always just disconnect one or the other, or fashion a yellow lens for the upper one. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Brilliant progress Ray.
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The wheelhouse doors / frames have been tidied up and fitted. A little word of caution here for anyone else building this or a similar model - earlier in the build I glued the window frames all round and when it came to fitting the doors I had to cut away a couple of portions of the window frames so that the doors/frames could be glued flush against the wheelhouse. :((
Next, the 3 windscreen wipers were added to the front wheelhouse windows.
The mast and funnels have been reassembled and the whole thing pinned into position - still needs rigging before gluing into place.
(I'm actually thinking of leaving this assembly removable for transportation/storage - not sure yet)
Looks absolutely great! :-))
As "anyone else" I'm really interested in the two suggestions (window frames and removable stock funnel-mast assy)!
About the removable stock funnels and mast: with the rigging (the supporting wires that would come down from the mast to the top of the wheelhouse), I'm keen to learn a trick to make the assy removable. For the rigging to look authentic, the wires should be quite tight, wouldn't you say? Otherwise, I'm very fond of removable sub-assemblies O0
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About the removable stock funnels and mast: with the rigging (the supporting wires that would come down from the mast to the top of the wheelhouse), I'm keen to learn a trick to make the assy removable. For the rigging to look authentic, the wires should be quite tight, wouldn't you say? Otherwise, I'm very fond of removable sub-assemblies O0
I'll try to answer this one.
First, attach a wooden base to each of the funnels, then assemble the mast tabernacle and glue between the funnels. (this gives you the correct spacing). Next, drill a hole in the base of each funnel, insert and glue a brass "peg".
Use an indelible marker to coat the ends of the pegs. While the ink is still wet, use the pegs to mark the deck location.
Now drill the holes in the deck and push the pins in (note: I made the holes "slightly" undersize to make it a good fit).
When all the rigging is attached, the only mast stay to be removable is the one to the wheelhouse roof - as you have already stated - I'll be tying a very small hook to mine, which will attach to a small ring (or shackle) fitted to the stay on the roof.
Note: It will be advantageous to fit all the rigging attachments to the mast PRIOR to fixing it to the tabernacle. Also, don't forget the 2 turnbuckles, one on each of the funnels. :-)) These will keep the mast perpendicular and don't need to be removed.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Ray.
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Yes! Very helpful O0
Now I'm convinced that I will attempt to make the assy removable.
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Another little update.....
Still waiting for brass rod delivery, handrails will just have to wait. :((
Meanwhile, I've made the ladder for wheelhouse roof access and the mast has been rigged - the forestay has just been tied off to one of the stanchions pending final fitting.
Here's a few photo's......
Pic 1: The ladder uprights have been shaped and hooked onto thick ply ready to accept the rungs.
Pic 2: Soldered up, waiting for natural cooling to occur.
Pic 3: Ladder cleaned up and placed on the model for effect.
Pic 4: Same as 3
Pic 5: Mast rigged.
Pic 6: Another view of mast showing temporary tying off.
Regards,
Ray.
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Nice neat soldering there Cap'n :-))
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Thank you Brian. I couldn't have achieved that standard the traditional way - I used the solder paint and a blow torch. It still took about an hour to get everything lined up though.
Regards,
Ray.
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That is the problem, getting everything lined up and held in place while the soldering is done. I have to agree, I use solder paste, a little blob on each joint and then in with the iron. Its the neatest quickest way of doing joints like these. Getting all the small parts nice and clean before soldering is difficult also, but once done the results are worth it.
I have had parts that just refused to solder in the past, no matter how much cleaning - both with steel wool and acetone, how much solder, how much or how little heat, there has been times when I have given up and remade the parts. I've never pinpointed why sometimes brass wire and sheet won't solder, just Sod's law I suppose.
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Time for another little update....
Decided to have a rotating radar so, to that end, bought a nice little Graupner geared motor via CMB.
I've wired it up in such a way as to start rotating at the same time as the motors kick in.
The tube I had previously painted was installed through the wheelhouse roof and through into the lower saloon. Next, a narrower tube was run inside the first one and down to the motor spindle - the motor itself is installed under the access hatch with just the spindle protruding. Happy with that so a 4BA washer was soldered to the top and the radar transponder glued on top. While giving it a test run it suddenly dawned on me that the radar would only just clear the handrails and therefore be far too low for a clear view. Oops!
Finally came up with a solution - added a further short length to the bottom of the narrow tube, joined with a piece of tight fitting clear tubing.
Next came the wiring up of the lights - just 5 in total - Port, Stbd, stern x 2 and for'd light atop the wheelhouse. All wiring was terminated and tidied up (a bit).
Finally for now, made a start on the stanchions / handrails.
I used the technique that Mark T used on his Fairmount Alpine, by using masking tape to mark the holes for the stanchions, lifted this and transferred to a piece of ply. My thanks to Mark for that idea. :-))
So, here's a few photo's.....
Pic 1: Showing the outer tube fitted.
Pic 2: The 1st attempt on the radar.
Pic 3: Beginning the wiring up (the radar motor spindle can just be seen protruding through the access hatch)
Pic 4: All wiring completed and tidied up (sort of)
Pic 5: The extended radar and lights confirmed working ok.
Pic 6: .....with the workshop lights extinguished.
Pic 7: Making a start on the wheelhouse roof stanchions / handrails.....the vacant holes are for the lower structure stanchions.
Regards,
Ray.
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I've just noticed a red light (in the "night" shot) on the Stbd quarter - this is, in fact, the power light on my bench electrics. {-) :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
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A very minor point, Captain, but seeing as your model is turning out so well.....
Looks like you've used the stock wooden fittings to mount the port and starboard navigation lights. The regs say that the port and starboard lights should be visible from straight ahead of the vessel to two points abaft the beam, an angle of 112.5 degrees. When I was lighting mine, I thought that the stock fittings partly prevented the lights from being seen from dead ahead. I swapped them for slightly smaller, but still correct scale fittings that didn't do this.
As with all things, I suppose it depends how close you want to be to the original vessel. In my case, she had an 'update' during her refit, when transferred to my fleet! :)
And I wish I'd done what you've done with the radar before putting it all together. I can't bear the thought of taking it all apart -again! <:(
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Ref nav lights - that's a good point. Looking at the photo's on the previous page the lights can be seen from dead-ahead, though partly obscured. I'll try cutting away a portion of the offending front piece and see how it looks.
As for the radar, my original plan was to mount the motor under the wheelhouse roof and box it in with just leads to a single battery somewhere within the wheelhouse.
Then I thought maybe mount it atop the roof, but then there's still the power supply to consider.
As it stands, I'm just going to leave it as it is, see how things go...
Regards,
Ray.
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Well, at long last I have a little update to post.
I've spent ages on trying to get all the stanchions & handrails soldered up. Had to de-solder most sections a number of times due to not being able to get all the bends and twists to match up all round.
Finally got there this evening.
The board I used to hold the stanchions upright has now been cut into sections so that each section can be sprayed separately. In particular the stairs sections - you'll see by the photos that they have been set up with the overhangs in place.
I'll just put these 2 or 3 photos up to show what I mean. Also notice that the top rails have yet to be added - that's because the top rails are going to be black, the remainder white.
Hope to get this little lot primed tomorrow.
Regards,
Ray.
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Hi Ray, Looking good! :-)
I have an envy for Anyone that can solder railings!
What kind of solder did you use?
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Hi Ray, Looking good! :-)
I have an envy for Anyone that can solder railings!
What kind of solder did you use?
Thanks very much Martin - I've used solder paint and a blowtorch, it's just a case of using a small artist type brush, putting a small amount of the paint on each joint then waving the blowtorch over it. There's very little cleaning up to do afterwards, in some cases none at all.
You may have heard of this product being referred to as solder paste as well - basically its a mix of flux and tiny bits of solder.
This stuff is expensive (mine was £30 for 125g) but well worth the money. O0
I got mine through Maplins, other places will do it as well I would imagine.
Regards,
Ray.
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Forgot to add - have a look at reply no.284 on the previous page, there's a photo with the solder product in the centre.
Regards,
Ray.
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Oops - silly me, just checked back to previous page, photo referred to is in reply number 285 :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
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Looking good Ray :-))
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Looking good Ray :-))
Many thanks Tugnut - the weather has turned damp again so still no spraying done. :((
The forecast is ok for the next few days so I'm still optimistic... :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Well, after all this time, the guardrails have finally been painted up and fitted.
Even with great care I found myself having to re-bend some of the top rails as they didn't quite sit right.
The other little bits and pieces have been added and the skipper and his little dog are now onboard.
All that remains now is a clean up, ballasting, watertight integrity tests (tomorrow) then she will be ready for sea trials.
Unfortunately, the trials can't be carried out until I return from a family visit. Granddaughter no.2 has arrived so I'll be away for about a fortnight.
In the meantime, here's a few photographs - enjoy.
I'll take some more when the boat is on the water. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Looking very tidy Ray...will be good to see on the water :-))
With your family calculations.."Granddaughter no.2 has arrived so I'll be away for about a fortnight" ....so does this mean on the birth of my 8th grandchild...I must stay away for about 16 weeks?..... {-)
Derek
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Looking very tidy Ray...will be good to see on the water :-))
With your family calculations.."Granddaughter no.2 has arrived so I'll be away for about a fortnight" ....so does this mean on the birth of my 8th grandchild...I must stay away for about 16 weeks?..... {-)
Derek
{-) {-) {-)
Very good Derek. I would love to stay away for longer but needs must.
Had the boat in the bath today - she weighs in at just 12lbs and needed a further 13lbs of ballast to bring her down to the waterline.
So the next task will be to make up the lead weights in such a way as to make them easy to remove for ease of handling. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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She looks amazing :-)) I loove the busy but not cluttered look you have created and reckon her skipper likes to run a tidy ship.
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She looks amazing :-)) I loove the busy but not cluttered look you have created and reckon her skipper likes to run a tidy ship.
Thanks Ian.
Making up the stanchions and 2 lower rails was no big deal really but getting the top rail to sit square was a week-long nightmare. The temptation to solder it in place and then paint it was quite strong. However, maybe next time I do a similar set up I'll just paint them all one colour. ;D
The chains across the openings on 01 deck are a bit shiny but will weather naturally over time - I did them this way to avoid having to make and mount gates. :-)
The skipper and his dog give the finished article a nice little touch. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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First the good news - took the model for her maiden voyage today. Despite 47+ wind, gusting to 52, she sat dead straight on her waterline. Sailed around for about 1hr then brought her in for checks - the inside was completely dry. :-)
Now the bad news - I FORGOT TO TAKE THE FLIPPIN' CAMERA. >>:-(
Sorry guys & gals, I'll take some shots next time out. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Great to hear you had successful maiden voyage ray and in heavy seas. :-))
look forward to seeing pics when you remember the camera <*<
regards
mick
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Congratulations to you and your Neddie! O0 :-))
I know it's not your first, but I bet its a mighty fine feeling!
And to have her back totally dry - superb!
How's the maneuverability? Beckers work alright?
How does she turn going backwards?
Do you have tank driving?
Sorry for all my questions - I so would have loved to be there by the pond... :embarrassed:
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Great to hear you had successful maiden voyage ray and in heavy seas. :-))
look forward to seeing pics when you remember the camera <*<
regards
mick
Thanks Mick. So far, I see no reason why I shouldn't make it to the lake later this week - complete with the camera. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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How's the maneuverability? Beckers work alright?
How does she turn going backwards?
Do you have tank driving?
Hiya Hande. Becker rudders working lovely, they make tighter turns a doddle.
Still need to practice going astern but does come back straight - it's a case of remembering to throw the rudders in opposite direction to normal to get her going left of right. :embarrassed:
I don't have tank steering, just the normal forward and reverse for motors and normal left/right on the other stick.
Regards,
Ray.
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Definitely worth going to tank steering with two ESCs. You can turn on the spot with ease, and if you wish, just run on one motor for 'cruising'. I put in a bow thruster (I got given one as a Christmas present) and that makes things even easier, and I can almost go sideways!
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Definitely worth going to tank steering with two ESCs. You can turn on the spot with ease, and if you wish, just run on one motor for 'cruising'. I put in a bow thruster (I got given one as a Christmas present) and that makes things even easier, and I can almost go sideways!
Thanks for the input Meechingman. Perhaps, during her next refit.... %) Certainly a consideration for a future model anyway. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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First of all - thank you for your patience. :-)
Went to the lake on Thursday complete with camera.
Took a few photographs while trying to operate the boat at the same time.
The 1st one is to show the mast in the lowered position just prior to launching.
The remainder are "on the water" at Tynemouth boating lake. :-))
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Ooops - there should have been a video link there. Try again:-
http://sendvid.com/hp6wkdfr
This was my first attempt with the camera in video mode - a bit shaky and the boat being operated by a friend...
Regards,
Ray.
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congratulations ray she looks superb on the water mate a model to be very proud of.
i have really enjoyed this build from start to finish and look forward to your next build.
i must come over to tynemouth lake soon and see her in the flesh.maybe after the blackpool show.
well done ray :-))
regards
mick
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Very nice! What a nice lake you have there for sailing your model boat, too!
She obeys the rudder well.
Mast that can be lowered - I planned to do the same. Practical as well as true to the 1:1 real thing.
May she sail well and safe!
I'm happy for you.
:-)) :} O0
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Thanks guys. I would hope to get some better footage than that in a future outing and maybe a few more stills.
This has been a year-long rebuild with some rather frustrating aspects but I guess the end justifies the means. :-))
Hoping to start something new in the not too distant future. %)
Regards,
Ray.
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I will certainly stay tuned for the next one! O0
Your posts are very informative, detailed and good humor is always present.
This is the first that I have followed systematically through the project. Thank you for the experience!
cheers! Hande
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Capt Podge,
Just seen this thread and your video, your excellent modelling skills and that boat are a credit too you :-)) the level of detail is fantastic thank you for sharing this
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Thank you Paul.
The model isn't perfect but suffice it to say that I'm quite happy with the result. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Dear Ray,
wanted to enjoy the video again, but it doesn't run. Did you upload it on Youtube, too, perhaps?
Maybe it's my device that is the problem...
I am searching for the feeling of sailing my Neddie for the first time, one time... :embarrassed:
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The link is working fine I've just rewatched it :-))
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must try it on another device... :((
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must try it on another device... :((
What are you trying to watch it on? It works on my iPhone and my windows laptop
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Hi Ray
you have made a cracking job of the tug - I have just been watching the video of your sail around Tynemouth Lake :-)) :-)) well not your sail but your model tug sail around :-)
John
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Superb build Ray, for me the crowning glory of this Tug is your excellent work on all the railings, I know first hand how difficult they can be, well done mate. :-))
Joe
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Hi ya John - a compliment from a cracking modeller is so encouraging, but I'll accept yours as well {-) {-) only kidding mate. Thanks again for your comments.
I've just watched the video again myself - didn't realise just how much I was shaking in parts of it - maybe I should take a tripod next time.
Regards,
Ray.
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Hi ya Joe - My thanks to you also and with regards to the railings, I doubt I could have completed them if you had not introduced me to the solder paint. :-))
Your own build logs have also helped tremendously, particularly with moulding / casting in resin.
Thanks again mate.
Regards,
Ray.
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Ok solder paint? is that the same as solder paste? or something totally new, I've been soldering for many years and have to admit small intricate stuff on railings is a pita
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Hello Paul, the solder paint is a mixture of micro particles of solder and flux, just give it a stir, brush it on (very little required) and apply your heat source. Very little cleaning up afterwards.
The usual cleanliness in respect of preparing to solder of course...
Solder paste, as I found out when I ordered a tin online, is just another name for solder flux.
Hope this clarifies.
Regards,
Ray.
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capt,
what is the weight of your Neddy?
I think you are running on 6 volts, do I remember right?
How heavy is the lead acid battery?
I've got a 12 volts lead acid battery.
I wonder if my plywood is significantly heavier than your plasticard?
Or vice versa, even?
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Hello Hande, I'll try to answer your queries tomorrow - in the meantime have a look at reply no. 321 on page 13. ;D
Regards,
Ray.
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Hello Paul, the solder paint is a mixture of micro particles of solder and flux, just give it a stir, brush it on (very little required) and apply your heat source. Very little cleaning up afterwards.
The usual cleanliness in respect of preparing to solder of course...
Solder paste, as I found out when I ordered a tin online, is just another name for solder flux.
Hope this clarifies.
Regards,
Ray.
Thank you Ray, that's perfect I'll buy some of the Bakers no3 fluid as I'm told this is paint? got to be better than trying to solder all the joints separately :-))
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As always, when trying something new, test it on some scrap first. :-))
....also, there's a photo in reply no. 285 on page 12, showing what I used - expensive but nice to use.
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Ray I've just looked, I saw that picture before but looked part the pot, thanks it looks like it'll be worth the investment and last quite a while anyway sometimes it's worth paying more for something, Also in that same picture I've seen that stern light you made and it's reminded me to make a new one
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Hello Hande, I'll try to answer your queries tomorrow - in the meantime have a look at reply no. 321 on page 13. ;D
Regards,
Ray.
THERE it is - I couldn't find it. (It is remarkably difficult to find specific information from the threads :(( So, 25lb. Your battery looks very similar in size compared with mine. I guess, I'm going to come close.
Thanks, Ray!
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peaceful holidays, Ray, and a happy new year 2018!
Hande
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Cheers Hande - hope you have had a good one and likewise, very best wishes for a productive New Year !
Regards,
Ray.